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Tuesday 26/04/2022: Looks like we will be returning to the UK in early June after our long, forced stay in Mexico. We will be attending Adventure Shows in various parts of England and hope to meet with many friends who we have not seen for some time after coronavirus prevented our return and also halted meetings of bikers and adventurers.

Finally made it to the big time. Name up there with some lesser known circumnavigators. Map from a junior school project in the Turks and Cakos Islands. Nice to find youngsters are following my exploits. Will have to send a thank you for the recognition.

Thursday 28/04/2022: Mexico has crocodiles as proved by recent cases of attack by these huge creatures. There are three species, in fact, but the most common is Crocodylus acutus, the American crocodile, which frequently lives in estuaries and can grow to a length of over five meters. A biologist, Paulino Ponce, is an independent researcher specializing in crocodiles and human-croc conflicts who is currently leading a team dedicated to the tricky business of finding and relocating crocodiles from Mexico's biggest inland body of water, Lake Chapala. One example of attack is when a crocodile three meters long caught a six-year-old girl in Puerto Vallarta. In another case, a 4.68-meter croc killed a five-year-old boy in the estuary of the Tomatlán River in Jalisco. The culprit was captured and transferred to an enclosure.

And, of course, very recently, a croc attacked an English girl in the mangrove swamps in Escondido near the vicinity where we live. Although there are few cases of being caught by a croc people should especially be watchful of their children and their pets. In Africa crocodiles can surprise and catch a fast animal like a cheetah, so one must be alert near known habitats. In Mexico more than 70% of the people attacked by crocs used to be fishermen, but now it is tourists who are more likely to be threatened. So beware all you unsuspecting tourists when sunbathing on the beaches. Jaws can strike!!

Sunday May 1/2022: Mexico has many attractions and cities appealing to tourists. One of them is Guanajuato like no other in Mexico .In 1548, a prospector discovered silver in the mountains surrounding what today is the capital of the state by the same name. By the mid-1700s, Guanajuato had become the wealthiest city in Mexico. The owner of the La Valenciana mine paved the path from his house to the nearby church with gold so that his daughter would not have to touch the soil on her way to be married. Built in a narrow valley between the mountains that made it rich, Guanajuato has many beautiful examples of the art and architecture of the age of the Spanish viceroys and a rich history, culture and gastronomy. Guanajuato features a series of narrow alleys that wind their way through the centre. Now here is a legend!! The most famous of these is the Callejón del Beso (Alley of the Kiss), where a wealthy mine owner and his daughter lived. A simple miner and his son lived in a house where only 27 inches separated the balconies of the two homes. Rich by poor!! One day, the girl's father surprised her in the middle of kissing the neighbour's son across their balconies. Furious, he told her he would rather kill her than see her marry beneath her rank. But young love would have its way. Once again, the two were found leaning across the narrow gap and kissing. Enraged, the father stabbed his daughter to death. AHHHHHH!!!! Soon afterward, the lovestruck young man also committed suicide rather than live without the love of his life. Does this remind you of anything? It is said that if two lovers kiss on this spot, they will be together forever. This has attracted couples to recreate the kiss evermore.

But Guanajuato's most famous attraction is the Guanajuato Mummy Museum. Between 1870 and the mid-1950s, a local tax was levied on city residents to pay for maintaining the cemetery. The bodies of members of families unable to pay this "eternal rest" tax were disinterred to make room, and the soil's quality and the climate in the area caused the natural mummification of some corpses. Today 57 of these mummies are on display at the museum. The exhibit includes the youngest mummy on record, a six-month foetus. Many of the clothes are still intact on the corpses after more than 100 years. One woman even appears to have been buried alive by accident. The position of her body and the expression on her face would indicate she faced a horrific end. If you visit Mexico and are anywhere near Guanajuato it is worth a visit.

Monday 02/05/2022: Sad to say the number of road accidents in Mexico is high and recently not too distant from where we live a bus veered off the road and killed several tourists. The driver allegedly fell asleep at the wheel, sending the vehicle falling 10 meters into a ravine. The tourist bus had travelled from Puebla to the Virgin of Juquila Sanctuary, a pilgrimage site 200 kilometres south of Oaxaca city. It was on its way to the coastal town of Puerto Escondido when the accident occurred. Three children that died in the accident, all boys, ages 7, 8 and 10. The driver fell asleep and went off the road he survived the accident and was arrested.

Wednesday 04/05/2022: Have you ever had swordfish? Probably not and am pleased about that but in Mexico they are regularly caught for restaurants. They are plentiful - and affordable - on both coasts of Mexico Swordfish (pez espada) are found in the waters off Baja, Nayarit, Sinaloa, Sonora and Guerrero. They are powerful, predatory fish and travel alone, not in schools. They can often be found at the surface of the water or breaching and are one of the world's largest and fastest fish, able to swim up to 80 kilometres per hour. Fresh swordfish is a dull white, with a reddish vein in the centre of a whole filet. It's often compared to chicken and doesn't have a fishy or oily taste and indeed can be almost sweet. They are really magnificent creatures and hope fully will continue to thrive and escape over-fishing.

Friday 06/05/2022: To end this log I include another extract from my book which is being printed at this very moment. You may be aware that the type of travelling we are engaged in has some Dodgy Moments. One such was at a suspicious road-block in Venezuela set-up by a fairly evil looking, armed bunch of 'banditos'. Actually it was a person on the pillion who proved to be more threatening.

When I was waved down, I slowed the engine, slowed my thoughts and realised I was going to do one thing; rocket past them, they were not your run-of-the-mill roadblock. I knew my instincts were right. I slowed right down, put them off guard, and then accelerated between two of them. I accelerated off, hoping it would not be a repeat of my Kenyan bandit attack. I felt they would have to make one serious decision if they were going to shoot the only 'tourists' in Venezuela for years. As we pulled away with no sounds of gunshots, and disappeared around a corner I felt super proud. I got a slap on the back of my helmet.

"What the hell are you doing? We could have been shot!"

"Sorry I didn't feel good about those guys" I replied.

"I am on the back of the bike, and if they shoot, I am the one who gets killed" Cathy replied, instantly.

I thought about this one deeply, and came up with one of the smoothest lines I could imagine. Clint Eastwood would have been proud. Clint Westwood too.

"Yes Cathy, but if they had shot at us, the bullet would have gone through you, and into me"

Cathy looked at me quizzically; if you could, in a helmet, behind someone. Now the Clintina Eastwood comment came out; Cathy just said, "Fair enough"

End of motorcycle domestic. Apart from that brief disagreement, we travelled for at least three kilometres, before the next disagreement.

"Not true" says Cathy.

The next stop was Ciudad Bolivar, bang in the centre of Venezuela.

'That's all folks' as somebody once said and another 'I'll be back.' Cathy and Spencer and a dish of salted peanuts and spaghetti.

Friday April 01/04/2022: I have booked my flight to......the moon! Only way to get out of my adopted country and this being April Fools' Day! Now how did this name come into being? Many sources are listed and several countries claim that it originated in theirs. There is a reference to April Fools' Day in a 1561 poem by Flemish poet, Eduard de Dene, of a nobleman who sends his servants out on foolish errands on 1 April, and then sent them out again when they failed to find what they had been sent to seek. April Fools' Day is an established tradition in Great Britain and some suggest that it is from one of Chaucer's 'Canterbury Tales'. In the "Nun's Priest's Tale", a vain cock is tricked by a fox and meets its fate.

Check this link to find out more about 'April Fool's Day'

Sunday 03/04/2022: As said before Mexico has a rich heritage of art and crafts and one such is Metepec's contribution to Mexican folk art which is its "trees of life" sculptures. Originally decorated candle holders, they are intricate, ornate sculptures that are often tall and colourful edifices. The most traditional of these is a tree with leaves and animals representing the Garden of Eden with figures of Adam and Eve. But they have evolved to include other themes and have become stylized into abstracts as the one pictured by Tiburcio Soteno that is based on pre-Hispanic images related to fertility. The longer one stays in Mexico one discovers more of the culture of the country.

Tuesday 05/04/2022: Many visitors to Mexico are bemused by the fact that Mexicans have an Elastic Time sense. When someone tells you, 'ahorita llego,' it could mean "I'm coming right now" — or not. The expression 'ratito' could mean "in a little while." But what does it mean by 'a little while?' It is Elastic! Maybe in 10 minutes or 2 hours!! When will the package arrive? 'Hoy Hoy' "Today." Maybe. Possibly. Could be 'today' tomorrow or 'Mañana'



In the last log I mentioned that there is a new way to receive warnings of earth quakes and rumours recently circulated that Frida , a 12-year-old yellow Labrador had died which caused dismay in Mexico. Why? She is known in the country for her participation in search efforts following the powerful September 19, 2017, earthquake that devastated Mexico City and other parts of central Mexico. Frida officially retired in 2019 after nine years of service.

In her distinguished career of public service, she was also involved in the search for earthquake victims in Haiti in 2010, in Ecuador in 2016 and in Juchitán, Oaxaca, in September 2017.In addition, she searched for landslide victims in Guatemala in 2012 and looked for people buried under rubble after an explosion at the Pemex Tower in Mexico City in early 2013. People have put away their handkerchiefs as it has been announced that Frida is still alive and enjoying an earthquake free life!

Thursday 07/04/2022: When was the first brain surgery performed? Well a man with a hole in his forehead, who was interred in what's now northwest Alabama between around 3,000 and 5,000 years ago, is the oldest known case of skull surgery. Damage around the man's oval skull opening indicates that someone scraped out that area of bone, probably to reduce brain swelling caused by a violent attack or a serious fall. He had injuries to his left eye, left arm, leg and collarbone. Bone regrowth on the edges of the skull opening indicates that the man lived for up to one year after surgery. It is likely that the recipient of the surgery was a shaman as his grave included items like those found in other shamans' graves in the area. It is possible that shamans in Mexico carried out similar 'operations' whilst the 'victim' was under the influence of drugs. Nothing new in the world.

Monday 11/04/2022: Mexico is known as the 'Ring of Fire' for its huge number of active and dormant volcanos and one of them has been monitored since its 'birth'. Paricutín arose from a Michoacán farmer's cornfield in 1943; its eruption officially lasted for nine years. By 1952, it had formed a 424-meter-high cone, and two towns were completely buried in lava and ash and three others severely damaged. Hundreds had to permanently relocate, resulting in the creation of two towns. Spewing ash, smoke and rock, the volcano reached 50 meters in height on the first day, and 100–150 meters by the end of the week. Within eight months, the cone was 365 meters tall. Fortunately, the lava's slow movement meant minimal loss of life. Most of the growth and damage occurred in that first year, but it brought many journalists and scientists from Mexico and from abroad to study the development of a volcano. Paricutín's last major burst of activity was in 1952. It is located in the state of Michoacán, near the city of Uruapan and about 322 kilometres west of Mexico City. The volcano suddenly emerged from the cornfield of a local farmer Dionisio Pulido in 1943, who claimed the volcano as his own..

Wednesday 13/04/2022: All for this log. Just off in search of a volcano and to inform all that my next book has some references to volcanos and shamans. Looks like it will be available in the next few weeks. Stay safe and away from shamans and volcanos. Both pretty worrying. Fried bananas in chocolate sauce.

Check out the recipe on youtube... Enjoy! Cathy and Spencer

Sunday 20/03/2022:
Earthquake Warning via Mobile Phone

Mexico is a country prone to earthquakes and in the past there have been major disasters caused by earth tremors. The Mexico City earthquake of 1985, also called Michoacán earthquake, was a severe tremor that occurred on September 19, 1985, off the coast of the Mexican state of Michoacán, causing widespread death and injuries and catastrophic damage in Mexico's capital, Mexico City. The magnitude-8.0 quake occurred at 7:18am and caused major destruction. Recently, in Escondido, we had a low-level quake which sent us running into the street along with the inhabitants of the town. Now there will soon be is a system to send earthquake warnings in the form of alerts of earthquakes in Mexico that would go direct to citizens' mobile phones, giving them more time to evacuate buildings and seek safety.

The federal organization that tracks earthquakes and runs the country's early warning system, CIRES, announced that it plans to introduce phone alerts and said the warnings would reach citizens regardless of network operators, the quality of their internet connections and without the need for them to download an application. The improved early warnings would be transmitted through the technology Cell Broadcast, which enables CIRES to send out bulk messages to mobile phone users in a defined area. We better make sure our phones are charged ready for the next tremble!!

Tuesday 22/03/2022: We all know about air and sea pollution that endangers our planet but there is another form of pollution that harms creatures in the sea and that is Light Pollution. In the UK offshore oil and gas rigs and wind farms in the North Sea shine brightly on the water, as does the glow of coastal cities in, for example, the United Kingdom and Norway as recorded in the photo where the region's waters are clear enough that the artificial light to penetrate from 1 meter (dark blue) to 30 meters (yellow) deep. Humans' night time light has the most impact in the top meter of the water where artificial light is intense enough to cause a biological response across nearly 2 million square kilometres of ocean, an area roughly that of Mexico.

This has a detrimental effect on tiny sea creatures that are sensitive to light and causes changes to breeding function. Not all species are equally sensitive to light but copepods, ubiquitous shrimplike creatures that are a key part of many ocean food webs are affected. Like other tiny zooplankton, copepods use the sun or the winter moon as a cue to plunge to the dark deep, seeking safety from surface predators so the more light there is the more their habitat is affected and also for other marine life that feed upon them near the surface.

Friday 25/03/2022: Many of us have suffered from the pandemic of Covid-19, as I have, and still am. Not that well at the moment and feeling generally down and unhealthy, loss of smell and failure to concentrate caused by a virus that is so colourful under a micro-scope! It seems that after a bout of COVID-19, people have, on average, less grey matter in parts of the brain that help handle the sense of smell. That's an interesting finding, especially given the virus's ability to steal people's sense of smell. But it's also not surprising, given what we know about the brain's propensity to change. The brain is dynamic, and neuro-scientists have found that brain areas grow and shrink over the course of days. This change, found in the hippocampus, a brain structure tied to learning and memory, and nearby areas, can be monitored to record ebbs and flows of changes. The brain can reorganize and heal itself to some extent, even in older people and it's also possible that some changes are due to a lack of smell input. Research has shown that blocked noses can lead to brain changes as found in recent brain-scanning studies. Perhaps these brain changes could reverse when the sense of smell returns. Let's hope so.

Saturday 26/03/2022: Carl Routhier who many of you will know is a good friend, and travelled with me in parts of Africa, helping with filming for the Africa series is here in Puerto Escondido. He and his wife Elyse are in Mexico for a visit and it is 13 years since we last met. Elyse is a snowboard maestro and they both ski, husky sled race and have a kennel with 53 dogs. On top of that we are all interested in extreme sport, adventure, travel and wildlife. So the friendship is strong.

Sadly we witnessed a murder which I tried to prevent, a thief being beaten by a mob. I managed to stop them and then cleared his throat of blood but he died before an ambulance arrived. Not the nice side of Mexico. The police interviewed me and said it was a Cartel drug dispute.

Sad times and put us off the town for a bit so we headed into the mountains of Oaxaca and visited the Zapotec Aztec site, Monte Alban which is 2500 years old. Funnily no one knows where the name Monte Alban comes from.

Monday 28/03/2022: A few days ago Aaron Carotta, who is rowing round the world, was passing by this stretch of coast. Having conquered a solo 232-day journey down North America's longest river system with just $37 in his pocket, limited supplies of mostly oatmeal and Spaghetti-Os and zero experience, Carotta and his canoe have expanded their horizons and decided to undertake an even bigger journey in 2021.

Carotta is making a solo worldwide trip in his rowboat, one that will take him from 3–5 years and that he's documenting through a variety of media online in the hopes of educating viewers about the lives of people around the world. He also hopes to break the Guinness world record for the longest solo journey by canoe or kayak. Currently the record is 3,462.89 miles by Marcin Gienieczko of Poland. Carotta talks a lot about his spirituality as being a personal thing for him — not something he wants to push on others, but more like a journey of finding his God. He started the journey as part of his spirituality. "It is personal and a quest — not a mission to save the world. Humanity, communication and God are the three elements that define my life."

Keep going Aaron and stay safe.

Friday 04/03/2022: Many of Mexico's traditions are kept alive by celebrations both of a religious and secular nature. One such is an annual Carnival in Huejotzingo which includes indigenous rituals steeped in Mexican history. Officially, year 2022 marked the 154th anniversary of the Carnival, and the anniversary of its militarization when it started to celebrate the battle of Cinco de Mayo. The Carnival's true origin is linked to the beginning of the farming cycle, when indigenous groups started preparing the land for planting and is still an important event. 20,000 to 25,000 residents participate each year. Alongside a battalion of men dressed up as French soldiers, a man on foot is dressed representing indigenous tradition. Participants are grouped into four "battalions," one from each of Huejotzingo's neighbourhoods. A band accompanies each, with a "general" leading them. Each wears a distinctive costume and carries fusiles talladas, elaborately carved and very loud muskets, which have caused injuries and even deaths on occasions. The Carnival commemorates three events: the defeat of the French in Puebla on May 5, 1862; the story of a kidnapping of a mayor's daughter by Agustín Lorenzo, a bandit; and the first Catholic indigenous wedding. It is celebrated on Shrove Tuesday immediately preceding Ash Wednesday, which in turn heralds the start of Lent, the Christian season supposed to replicate the Biblical story of Jesus Christ's withdrawal into the desert for 40 days. This year it was on March the first.

Sunday 06/03/2022: Eating Bugs

If you like to experience local food and delicacies why not go for bugs? In some parts of Mexico, grasshoppers and other insects have been a traditional food for centuries. In Africa you can go for locusts or termites!! Both of which I have tasted. Chapulines are an integral part of Oaxacan cuisine. Fried and salted, mixed with garlic cloves and sometimes peanuts, they're a popular snack. They're added to tacos and tlayudas; blended into soups and guacamole; toasted on a comal; or seasoned with lime juice, chilies and salt and added to egg dishes. You may want to try them blended or ground and mixed with salt turned into a pretty, reddish-brown seasoning to sprinkle on just about anything you want. Chapulines are also popular in some parts of Mexico City. Recently they've become part of a surge in interest of traditional Mexican cuisine and ingredients. The small chapulín de la milpa eaten in Oaxaca, where Cathy and I live, taste better. This variety is small and bright green. Have a tasty meal of frittered bugs you might enjoy it!!

Wednesday 09/03/2022: A couple of weeks ago my brother, Simon, was stung by hornets in Eswatini, where he lives, and had to go to hospital for treatment. I have also been zapped by these nasty creatures and know how painful and life threatening they can be. Now there is a method to curtail the stinging habit of these flying, buzzing insects. To trap them!! particularly for Asian giant hornets, using sex traps placed near nests. Male Asian giant hornets captivated by the chemical signals of a ready-to-mate queen could one day find themselves stuck in a trap instead. Scientists identified three chemicals in the sex pheromone of Asian giant hornet queens. When traps with those chemicals were placed near the hornets' nests in China the traps ensnared thousands of males but no other insects. The research finding is a step toward designing pheromone traps, a common tool to monitor or control insect populations. Nests housing Asian giant hornets, Vespa mandarinia, nicknamed "murder hornets" for their habit of feasting on honeybees were lured by chemical extracts from just one gland of a queen hornet that trapped about 500 male hornets. The giant Asian hornet has a sting powerful enough of a 50 percent chance of killing a decent-sized (270-gram) rodent. I will definitely steer clear of this variety!!

Friday 11/03/2022: Fabric Records Sound

Do you want to listen to your own heart? Buy a new shirt or blouse. A new fibre acts as a microphone — picking up speech, rustling leaves and chirping birds — and turns those acoustic signals into electrical ones. Woven into a fabric, the material can even hear handclaps and faint sounds, such as its wearer's heartbeat, researchers report. Such fabrics could provide a comfortable, nonintrusive - even fashionable - way to monitor body functions or aid with hearing. As a proof of concept a research team incorporated the fabric into a shirt, which could hear its wearer's heart like a stethoscope does. Used this way, the fabric microphone could listen for murmurs and may someday be able to provide information similar to an echocardiogram, an ultrasound of the heart. If it proves effective as a monitoring and diagnostic tool, placing such microphones into clothing may someday make it easier for doctors to track heart conditions in young children, who have trouble keeping stil. The fabric microphone is sensitive to a range of noise levels, from a quiet library to heavy traffic, the team reports, although it is continuing to investigate what signal processing is needed to detangle target sounds from ambient noise. Integrated into clothing, this sound-sensing fabric feels like regular fabric and it continued to work as a microphone after washing it ten times.I need to get one to listen to my heart when a giant Asian hornet approaches.

Monday 14/03/2022: Marathon Runner

You can do it with a 'little bit' of determination and if you are not quite right in the head. A Mexican Marathoner is on 100-day run from Los Cabos to Quintana Roo through challenging terrain and extremes of weather, he is Daniel Almanza from Nuevo León he started this feat of endurance - dubbed Super Human - in Los Cabos, Baja California Sur, on January 16 and headed north from Los Cabos through Baja California Sur and Baja California before crossing the Sonora Desert to Puerto Peñasco, Sonora, 1,720 kilometers from the start line. He aims to pass through 21 states to reach Quintana Roo by April 25. The father of one has been running marathons for 15 years and is the only Mexican to run in the Continental Challenge, which took him to Vietnam, Bolivia and Mozambique. Super Human also aims to benefit medical research: Almanza will record the state of his health every day to see how the journey affects his body and mind. If he survives that is!! Good luck Daniel from Spencer.

Saturday 18/03/202: I rarely mention motorcycle things but for this log just to show I do have a bike, albeit not in a very healthy state, I include a photo of my Tenere which has been my means of transport for 12 years. Doesn't look too healthy at the moment as electrical and mechanical problems have rendered it a 'no-going anywhere bike'.

I am in the process of fixing the electrics, not easy as very complicated wiring and have to thank Peri back in the UK at Laguna, Maidstone, for some advice by email and also my fat cat who keeps watch so that I don't make any mistakes. He has a harmonious purr unlike my bike! Anyway hopefully will succeed as 'fat-cat' is waiting for a trip to Mouse Land, Open All Hours.

All for now. Off to buy a new shirt with magic fibres. Love from Cathy and chapulín de la milpa from me.

Friday 04/03/2022: Ukraine and Mexico - Around the world there have been ant-Russian protests and it is the same here. Ukrainians and Mexicans marched in Mexico City against the Russia's invasion. People paraded with a 30-meter Ukrainian flag from the 'Monument to the Revolution' to the 'Angel of Independence' along Reforma Avenue.The protesters held signs bearing messages such as "Ukraine is invincible," and "Putin, crazy murderer. Get out of Ukraine!" in reference to the Russian President Vladimir Putin. It is likely that high inflation will have an adverse impact on tourism in Mexico this year. Tourists from Russia are usually about 65,000 a year, and from Ukraine, 20,000, but few of these will be coming in 2022, although President López Obrador has stated that Russian airlines will not be prohibited from flying into the country.

Closer to home involvement, on the ground in Romania, Mexico is helping with the evacuation of Ukrainians and Mexican citizens. One such is Omar Aviña, 32, from Jacona, Michoacán, and his Ukrainian fiancée, Iryna Volkova, 26, who were in Kyiv when the Russian invasion began. They spent the first night in Iryna's apartment, but when the windows were shaken by explosions, they sought refuge in the subway, where they stayed for six days. "We feared for our lives. You could hear the planes flying low and the surrounding explosions, and everything was shaking — the ground, the windows. We heard ... the sirens, which are still stuck in my mind," Aviña said. The couple fled Kyiv on Wednesday morning on a bus organized by Mexico's Foreign Ministry and crossed the border to Romania on Thursday. In Romania, they were evacuated from Bucharest with 79 other people on a Mexican Air Force plane and arrived in Mexico on Friday. Volkova was only able to leave with basic items such as her laptop, documents and some clothes. So here Mexico is doing its best to help refugees.

Formerly known as Santa Fe de Bogota it is the largest city, the capital and administrative centre of the wonderful jewel that is Colombia. This country gets my heart racing with excitement even writing its name down. It is insanely interesting if you veer away from the four, standard streets that tourists flock to. There is no denying that away from these sanitised, foreigner friendly areas, it has an edge to it and that's putting it mildly. The clichés are true, so let's get that part over with. Colombia, like Brazil has a serious problem with crystal meth, crack-cocaine and cocaine. Many of the problems stem directly from these addictions and it is a noticeable black cloud in many areas. Addicts are on many street corners and parks and underpasses. But Bogota is so, so much more than that.

Saturday 05/03/2022: Moving on to other things that have caused death now, like Covid-19, and ages ago, past Epidemics. Following the Spanish conquest there was a five-year outbreak of an unknown deadly illness that began in 1576 that led to lasting change for Christianity and Catholicism in Mexico. In 1576, when this epidemic struck, church bells initially tolled for each person who died of the mysterious plague, but eventually, the death count rose so high that the bells stopped ringing. By 1576, the country had already been suffering from multiple infectious diseases that had been brought by Europeans, most notably the smallpox epidemic spread by Hernán Cortés' messengers to Tenochtitlán even before the conquistador reached the Aztec capital.

In the decades following the conquest, epidemics had periodically ravaged indigenous populations, who created a term – cocoliztli – to name any unknown disease that was killing so many of them in painful ways, such as bleeding to death. One such cocoliztli epidemic occurred in 1545 which caused indigenous people to develop a form of local religion to protect them from epidemics against the authority of Spanish priests. Indigenous people incorporated Catholicism into their rituals and domestic practices, such as altars and images in their homes. These communities saw themselves as better Christians and Catholics than the friars themselves and discerned or decided what was sacred and holy in the religion. Today the Roman Catholic faith is a mixture of the religion of Spain and local custom.

Tuesday 08/03/2022: As I have mentioned before Mexicans love parades and spectacles and one such is to 'honour' bulls. Centuries ago a kind of a cult focusing on bulls existed taking on various forms.

By the time of the Spanish conquest bulls were no longer regarded as gods, but they still held an important role in the imagination and in local celebrations, the most famous in Spain being the running of the bulls in Pamplona. Letting bulls loose in the streets of Mexico does happen in a few places, but in most communities, bull figures and dances replace the highly dangerous and unpredictable animals. The Mexican tradition of toritos, (little bulls) is not generally about realistic depictions but rather bulls made of papier-mache, wood, cane or wire that are painted in bright colours and with intricate designs. They are small enough and light enough to be mounted on a dancer's head and shoulders or simply held in the air. The toritos are laden with as many firecrackers and rockets as the maker/dancer can afford. While in most towns, they are paraded in the daytime, their real purpose is to be set off at night as the bearer runs around the crowds, showering people with sparks and flying rockets. In some towns these monumental beasts can reach up to three meters in height. Some dominate festivities because of their sheer size. Torotes (large bulls) are paraded around during the daytime so that the public can see the work and care that went into making and decorating each one. The group heaving them around is also the one that has spent months and thousands of pesos to create them. There may be up to 300. At night one by one the fireworks on the bull's back are lit. Each bull is usually destroyed in less than 20 minutes but the sheer number of bulls means that there are fireworks going off almost all night. Beats Guy Fawkes night in the UK!

Thursday 10/03/2022: As you know I have had encounters with tarantulas on several occasions so forgive me for mentioning them again. In Peru's Amazon rainforest rare views of them have been recorded munching on vertebrates, including giant tarantulas capturing and eating opossums.

Scientists have known since at least the 1980s that these spiders, which frequently have vibration-detecting hairs and paralyzing venom, play a crucial role in the consumption of vertebrates. As yet I have avoided this gruesome fate!!

Friday 11/03/2022: On that pleasant note I'm off in search of some fish for supper and I'll watch out for tarantulas. Actually already caught some red snappers. Check out the photo archive for some recent photos. I include one here relevant to fish and I call it 'Sunshine in Your Smile'. Stay well and pray for Ukraine. Cathy and Spencer

When I woke up this morning there was a message from my best friend in Kyiv, Ukraine:

"We are being bombed. I will not share what I felt or thought, because there are no proper words to express currently my feelings. Just pure facts. The war started against my country, Ukraine. Against common sense, against humanity, against values of integrity and peace. And with this it is the world's common problem to be faced and reacted. No one can say it's not their business anymore, madness spreads beyond borders and nations. My heart goes out to my country, my family and friends. I have total trust that Ukraine will stand strong, and I hope that the world will get united to stop the aggressor. God save Ukraine! "

By the time you read this the situation in Ukraine will either be a total disaster or would have been resolved in one way or another but not without loss of life. I send my sympathies to my Ukraine friends and hope you are safe and out of danger and Ukraine is free. Love to all.

Recently Ukraine has asked Mexico for arms and ammunition to repel the Russian invasion. In response Mexico has condemned Russia's invasion of Ukraine and called for an immediate ceasefire but, unlike many countries, hasn't announced any sanctions on Russia or the Russian government. Mexico officially follows a policy of non-intervention in the affairs of other countries, meaning that it would be highly unlikely to provide arms or ammunition to Ukraine.

Tuesday 22/02/2022: Many readers have been asking when my next book will be available. It should be in print by the end of May ready for Adventure Festivals. Also for those of you in the States and other countries, but not the UK, my Africa book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' will be on KDP, in the next few days to be purchased through Amazon.

Just picked up a couple of comments on Good Reads just to show the book is not a myth!!

> Rip roaring read. Spencer has a unique wit that complements his level of insanity. A real page turner if you will! I highly recommend this book! Simon.

> Carool Van Der Hagen rated it as amazing! One of the best travel stories I ever read, funny as hell.

Thursday 24/02/2022: An annual nudist festival in Oaxaca will go ahead as planned at the end of this month despite Covid-19, say its organizers, who have promised that they will follow all required regulations. The Zipolite Nudist Festival - put on by the Mexican Nudists' Federation - has taken place in the coastal municipality of San Pedro Pochutla for six years on Mexico's only legal nude beach. The event attracts as many as 8,000 people and is generally peaceful and occurs without any untoward incident.

Saturday 26/02/2022: Many of you will be familiar with the type of clothes worn by cowboys that recently figured in the film 'Day of the Dog', but not so well known is the fact that the Mexican gaucho has his own version of the costume. This is widely worn in the Cuerathe region and is called the cuera. It has an unmistakable flair: a leather jacket heavily decorated with fringes and ornate depictions of flowers and plants. Leather coats and jackets started out as practical wear for working on the range, but the main purpose of these garments nowadays is to make a statement.

They are popular with politicians, businessmen, musicians and anyone looking to show love for Mexico's distinctive northern culture. The small town of Tula, Tamaulipas, claims credit as the origin of the iconic jacket. Its predecessor was called a cotón, a long deerskin overcoat that cowboys wore to protect themselves from thorns and branches. During the Mexican Revolution, a general by the name of Alberto Carrera Torres asked an artisan, Porfirio Reyna Mata, to design one. Reyna added a floral design and fringes, taking inspiration from Mexico's northern indigenous culture, along with its Spanish and Arabesque heritage. I thought that I might buy one but then considered it would be a bit 'flashy' for a biker!!

Monday 28/02/2022: A popular habit in Mexico is Smoking but in the past week a law has passed hailed as a 'great achievement for public health' The General Law for Tobacco Control has banned smoking in workplaces, schools, public access areas, sporting and entertainment facilities and public transport. According to the federal Health Ministry, over one-quarter of deaths due to cancer are related to the use of tobacco. Fifteen million Mexicans smoke, and 19% of all cigarettes are contraband, which fuels the illegal trade. This maybe the law but I see many Mexican smoking their own rolled 'reefers'. It is a very engrained custom and considered a social activity.

Tuesday 01/03/12: Mexicans love to express themselves in colourful spectacle and one way of doing this is in religious festivals. The conquistadors introduced the tradition along with all its other folk religious celebrations in the early colonial period. These 'festivals' were a time to set aside social conventions, including subservience to crown and church. In the past, masks and costumes, provided anonymity and allowed the disenfranchised to make fun of political and religious conventions and the authorities themselves.

In the late 17th century government prohibited gatherings and by the 18th, they were mostly eliminated in the cities, where enforcement was strongest, but not so much in isolated rural communities. With the country's independence in the 19th century celebrations re-surfaced and can now be found in about 225 central and southern Mexican communities. These events are very local, with traditions distinct to each town or small region. Dances and musical styles, especially with wind instruments, dominate. They may involve bullfighting, charreada (rodeo), horse racing, story re-enactments and even fishing tournaments. Many focus on parades and dances in the streets with participants dressed in costumes influenced by local traditions, with bull-themed ones in Veracruz and monkey-themed in Chiapas.

Wednesday 02/03/2022: Nothing more to report this log. Russians now surrounding Kiev so pray for the people there. Stay safe if you can. Luck and love from Cathy and myself.

Friday 04/02/2022: After the extract I posted last week on the log of impressions of Bogota I have been asked to include another more favourable for the city from my up-coming book. This time to make people aware that Bogota is much, much more than the depressing drug situation this snippet reveals a side which reflects the exoticness of this historic, cosmopolitan city.

To say Bogota is lively and colourful is an understatement. It is not just the vibrant locals, the constant street bands and performers, the pedestrian outdoor café areas, the designated cycling lanes for the weekend family groups and the beautiful architecture, museums and parks. This is not the only source of colour. The whole city, including the motorway retaining walls are filled with giant murals and artwork. We are not talking low level graffiti here, or tagging your signature on a dirty wall with a spray can, or on the side of a train or underpass. That is vandalism in my eyes. For vandalism to change to art, it takes one ingredient; talent, and the artists in Bogota have it in bucket loads. We are talking about immense paintings, often six or seven storeys high, unapologetically dominating a whole block of the city. It is beautiful, expertly and carefully executed, artwork. It varies from detailed seascapes, to huge traditional Indian portraits of hard working, wizened old country men and women, to vast revolutionary scenes, the detail staggering throughout. Some are stencil like, in the tradition of Banksy, the famous elusive English fellow!! These are a level above.

Monday 07/02/2022: To move onto an aspect of art work in Mexico, that is as popular as murals in Bolivia, and which is an important aspect of the country's tradition I come to Mexico's gigantic puppets, a craft woven into its culture. Known as mojigangas They are not puppets in the true sense but are more like manequins.

Spanish colonists brought the light-hearted giant puppets into Mexico as a folk religious tradition. The word comes from Spain, where it originally referred to a kind of street theatre often associated with religious processions, included to provide comic relief from hum-drum life. This use can be found in Mexico. Mojiganga events occur with the celebration of the patron saint, La Virgen del Rosario (the Virgin of the Rosary), in September. Depending on the area and the purpose of the puppet, the forms that mojigangas take vary widely. They can include busty blondes in revealing attire, brides, grooms, Mexican historical figures, devils, angels, pre-Hispanic priests, modern indigenous people, Mexican cultural figures and occasionally homages to famous non-Mexican persons. In San Miguel the most famous mojigangas are those created for weddings, and this is the case in Oaxaca, our state. Another common use is as a means of attracting customers to a business, often in Mexican restaurants and tourist shops. You will see colourful 'puppets' standing outside the entrance to cafes and souvenir outlets. Mojigangas also appear in some Day of the Dead ceremonies, mixing with the eerie masks prominent in the celebration of the dead.

Wednesday 09/02/202: Bernard, our photograph friend has returned to Mexico so will be doing some photoshoots in the next few says. We have one planned with Elspeth Beard (Google her +motorcycles) who is here and for those of you not in the know Elspeth Beard is an architect and motorcyclist. In the mid-eighties, mid-way in her architecture course, Elspeth became the first British woman to ride a motorcycle around the world. Her trip started in the US after she had shipped her bike over from the UK. She then set off on her monumental journey around the world. A fearless woman, with determination to face the dangers that she encountered on the adventure.

Returning to the UK she completed her studies and redesigned Munstead Tower in Godalming, winning the 1994 Royal Institute of British Architects award for South East England. She owns an architectural firm based in a converted stable in Godalming, Surrey.

Elspeth Beard | Lone Rider | Round the World Motorcyclist... www.elspethbeard.com

Friday 11/02/2022: Some strange creatures exist in this world and one such can be found in Mexico, the Salamander. As legend has it, the axolotl is the Aztec god of fire and lightning, Xolotl, who disguised himself as a salamander to avoid being sacrificed. The Mexican Axolotl is impressive as it has the ability to regenerate lost limbs and even part of its brain. Their youthful traits include feathery gills sprouting from their heads like a mane, webbed feet, a dorsal fin that runs down the length of their body, and a tail. Though they keep their gills, adult axolotls also have functional lungs and can breathe through their skin. Their mouths are upturned in a permanent Mona Lisa smile. When it's time to eat Axolotls suck in their prey, which includes crustaceans, molluscs, insect eggs and small fish. Unlike other salamanders that undergo metamorphosis, axolotls (pronounced ACK-suh-LAH-tuhl) never outgrow their larval, juvenile stage, a phenomenon called neoteny.

All salamanders need to keep their skin wet, which they do not shed unlike other amphibians. Colouration varies and albinism is relatively common. Since the early part of this century efforts have been made to protect the salamanders as they are threatened by depletion of their natural habitat. Mexican researchers are working to ensure that they survive and to maintain their existence as part of the culture of the country. There are salamanders near where we are but the Axolotls are rare, Still looking!! Please click the link to gain more knowledge of this strange creature.

Monday 14/02/2022: Valentine's Day and as in many areas of the world Mexicans are big fans of a holiday, or basically any event that requires holding a celebration and Valentine's Day is one of Mexico's favoured festivities. Valentine's Day is commercial so to celebrate February 14 like a true Mexican you need to buy red roses and balloons as gifts to loved ones. It is officially titled El Día del Amor y la Amistad, The Day of Love and Friendship. That means that if you want to celebrate like a Mexican, you shouldn't focus all your attention on your beloved, but rather on your friends and family too. I am off to buy a rose and a balloon!!

Wednesday 16/02/2022: Have to confess couldn't find a rose or balloon vendor anywhere. They had probably sold out. Off to an interview with Barbara for Oaxaca Magazine. She is 75, super energetic and totally mad. She was in demonstrations against Vietnam when 19, ran away to Guatemala, lived there 10 years and now been in Mexico for 30 plus years. Let you know how it goes.

Friday 18/02/2022: Have been negotiating extensions to our visas but as we have been here for nearly two years the immigration authorities suggested we apply for citizenship. After deliberation we took that route and we are now certified!! We can enjoy the privileges of Mexicans and can travel freely. We can now also get vaccinated against Covid-19. That's a benefit as we will be able to travel legally to other countries including the UK. All for now. Salamanders to you from a pair of Mexicans.

Friday14/01/2022: I realise that it has been sometime since my last log as life is at a standstill at the moment. Seem to have said that previously but it is a fact that we do not have much prospect of moving on. Our plans to establish bike trails through the more dramatic and challenging areas of Mexico are on hold as like in many parts of the world the coronavirus epidemic has curtailed movement here and prevented many from travelling in the country. So I have been focussing on completing my next book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' to be published in June this year. In fact writing has been keeping me sane and as a taster of the book I include here a short extract from the first chapter...

It is a very strange scene when you are standing at a bus stop in Bogota, Colombia, talking to a completely naked prostitute, about the best market to get fresh fruit and vegetables. This was the position I found myself in, on only my third day in South America and would eventually lead to a violent street mugging for Cathy and I. Not an ideal start. I absolutely love Bogota. I still do. We have all heard the saying "Well at least he's not boring," when talking about a friend; who we like, but who is a bit unpredictable, off the wall, or tends to get into trouble a bit too often. Dodgy as hell, but lovable; so we tend to make excuses for them or give a bit more leeway for their eccentricities. That friend is Bogota.

Formerly known as Santa Fe de Bogota it is the largest city, the capital and administrative centre of the wonderful jewel that is Colombia. This country gets my heart racing with excitement even writing its name down. It is insanely interesting if you veer away from the four, standard streets that tourists flock to. There is no denying that away from these sanitised, foreigner friendly areas, it has an edge to it and that's putting it mildly. The clichés are true, so let's get that part over with. Colombia, like Brazil has a serious problem with crystal meth, crack-cocaine and cocaine. Many of the problems stem directly from these addictions and it is a noticeable black cloud in many areas. Addicts are on many street corners and parks and underpasses. But Bogota is so, so much more than that.

I hope that this short extract gets you interested enough to purchase a copy when on sale and to be more forthright in my advertising below is a blurb from the cover.

'Traverse the mighty Ghost Road, meet a naked Polish cameraman, scale volcanoes, meet a mafia cartel godfather, fight your way through the Darien Gap. Experience crashes, broken bones, landslides, Love Motels and Guinea Pig dinners. Savour the beauty of South America on this Rollercoaster motorcycle adventure and fraternise with characters from the fringes of society.'

Enough of advertising and onto some more info on things Mexican

Tuesday 18/01/2022: As you know I have posted several photographs of street art which is so colourful and attractive to be found in almost every town and village in South America and is prolific in Mexico. But there is an alternative art movement known as Ruptura that provides a highly visible break with the muralism of Diego Rivera and others, towards art that is more international, abstract, apolitical and uses scientific features of modernism. One artist known as Sebastián has created monumental sculptures in over a dozen Mexican cities following the Ruptura ideals. Many of the pieces are enormous, meant to make an impression on those visiting the city, either as they enter or as they tour important areas. College campuses, corporations and other organizations see value in his work to make statements about themselves and their aims.

Friday 21/01/2022: On to something historical featuring William Walker a U.S. physician, lawyer, journalist, and privateer looking to conquer lands in the Americas in the years between the Mexican-American War and the American Civil War. At one point, with a group of like-minded men, he briefly controlled parts of Sonora and Baja California. The U.S government opposed such activity since it was in violation of the U.S. Neutrality Act, but William Walker ignored the ruling. He and 45 men left San Francisco in October of 1853 and made it to Guaymas to land-grab. Authorities in Mexico City were aware of the illegal infiltration but were slow to respond. After some months a contingent of 250 Mexican soldiers and U.S. military arrested Walker and his 'gang' and were taken to San Francisco to stand trial for violating the Neutrality Act. However, because of the popularity of what he did, the jury at his trial acquitted him in just eight minutes. A free man again, he then tried his luck in Nicaragua, becoming 'president' of that country for 10 months before being forced to leave. He then tried his luck in Honduras in 1860, but the British did not take kindly to such activity close to territory under their command. He was captured and turned over to the Honduran authorities. He was executed that year at the age of 36. Thus ended a brief and buccaneering career which is romanticised in a film starring Ed Harris.

Tuesday 25/01/2022: Once more onto a creature I have mentioned several times in my logs, tarantulas! These have been in the news recently for a good reason. At one time the tarantula population of Mexico was diminishing at a rapid rate which was due to illegal activity. A female only reaches sexual maturity after 10 years, and it would take 20 years for a young tarantula to reach full size. In the early 2020s trafficking tarantulas was widespread, and you could find illegal Mexican tarantulas in the UK, Europe and even in India. You could buy them in big-name department stores! Today, you are very unlikely to find an illegal Mexican tarantula in the market anywhere. This change has come about because today the United States and Canadian markets are saturated with tarantulas raised in captivity, provided by five or six tarantula sanctuaries in Mexico. One such is run by Snr Orozco whose sanctuary is located in the hills of Pinar de la Venta, just outside Guadalajara. From here, he ships legal, certified tarantulas all over the world and also receives visitors, who typically arrive feeling somewhat twitchy, only to leave charmed by the big and hairy, but gentle, arachnids they are able to hold in their hands for a few precious moments. So keep smiling there may be one of his colony, or cluster, as a group is called, nearby.

Tuesday 01/02/2022: To start a new month on to another creature that might be more appealing. Would you believe that flamingos are vain? Yes! They are. They actually dye their sun-faded feathers to remain in the pink. When flamingos preen, they care for their feathers, cleaning out accumulated dirt and parasites and they add colour. To apply their feather dye, flamingos rub their cheeks on a gland above their tail called the uropygial gland, which generates a colour-carrying serum. The birds then rub their serum-coated cheeks on their feathers and sway their necks to make sure the dye stick. All that effort is aimed at attracting potential mates. Flamingos actively work to maintain their blushed necks throughout their lengthy display season as they prepare to mate otherwise they'd have pale feathers. So now you know pink is the colour of love, love, love all you need is.....

OK! So that concludes the log for this week and hope to bring you more information that you can astound friends and families with during a lull in conversation. Tarantula soup and beans from Cathy and spencer.

P.S. there is a new podcast to listen to on the radio section or click on the link below and go to the listen icon at the top and then to Moment Collectors / Manicom and scroll through to the 36:30 spot. Here you will find an interview relating to our recent exploits... < CLICK HERE FOR PODCAST >

This log has been delayed as circumstances have prevented any action over the past couple of weeks. We are still in Mexico and both Cathy and I have covid-19 so not feeling too bright at the moment. Mine is long Covid and am now feeling very weak and tired. Nothing much to do about it. Not really been moving far and even walking is a strain so for the log have to fall back on providing some more information on Mexico. But firstly hope everyone had a super Christmas and all the best for 2022.

Saturday 01/01/2022: Yes, another year and recently the winter solstice has been celebrated by indigenous Mexicans who have held onto their ceremonies and rituals dating back to before the Spanish conquest. Often considered to be the symbolic death and rebirth of the sun, the winter solstice was, and is, an important time in many indigenous cultures, one that's often celebrated with festivals and rituals. In Mexica beliefs, the day marks the rebirth of Huitzilopochtli, the lord of the sun and of combat and has been celebrated for hundreds of years.

Sunday 02/01/2022: At this time many Mexicans set out on a pilgrimage to honour the Virgin of Guadalupe in commemoration of the Virgin Mary— the mother of Jesus and a very important saint in the Roman Catholic religion—who appeared to a man named Juan Diego in Mexico in 1531 and her image has become a national symbol of Mexico.. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to Juan Diego, a man of Aztec descent who had converted to Christianity, on December 9, 1531. She asked Juan Diego to build a shrine on the spot where she had appeared, Tepeyac Hill, now in a suburb of Mexico City.

The local bishop demanded that Juan Diego provide a sign that would prove the Virgin Mary had really appeared to him before he would agree to build a church on the site. The Virgin Mary appeared to Juan Diego again on December 12 and miraculously showed him where to pick roses, even though it was winter, to take to the bishop as proof that she had really appeared. Juan Diego collected the roses in his cloak, went before the bishop, and then opened his cloak to show him the roses. Dozens of roses fell to the floor and his cloak had a beautiful picture of the Virgin Mary inside. The bishop was stunned by the miracle and ordered that a church be built in her honour.

This year 3.5 million pilgrims made their way to the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City over 12 days to pay their respects to the Virgin of Guadalupe 490 years after her appearance. The numbers were well down because of Covid compared to 2018 and 2019 when almost triple that number converged on the pilgrimage site. Elsewhere indigenous artisans in Nacajuca, Tabasco, created a special Christmas tree decorated with 500 sombreros and other artisanal products As well as the sombreros, the 10-meter tree was adorned with 100 bags, traditional fans and drums, all of which were made by artisans from nearby Mayan towns.

Wednesday 05/01/2022: Not a good day for me as my mother would have been 80 today but as you know she died suddenly just over a year ago so memories flood back. Her short story book is now in The British Library so to commemorate her I include a pic to mark the event.

Thursday 06/01/2022: Where we are in Escondido there are several species of butterflies but recently in El Rosario Mexico's largest butterfly sanctuary was opened to visitors.10000 people visited the sanctuary in just two weeks under strict control. In the neighbouring municipality of Zitácuaro, indigenous Mazahua residents of the town of Cresencio Morales have created a "forest guard" to protect monarch butterflies from illegal logging. Groups of 20 armed residents take turns to patrol to protect the Monarch Butterfly Guards fire warning shots to let would-be loggers know they are there and that cutting down trees won't be tolerated. Both illegal logging and climate change are the main factors in a 26% reduction in the number of monarch butterflies so the forest guards are determined to defend their habitat. It would be great if other wild life areas were protected in a similar way.

Friday 07/01/2022: Lastly for this not very invigorating log we have been searching for a 'cheap' place to stay as our incarceration is interminable. Spied a movable residence of colourful appearance so under negotiation. Fried bananas in pepper sauce. Cathy and Spencer.

Saturday 04/12/2021: I am afraid I do not have a great deal to write this week as it is very much doom and gloom here as Coronavirus has put paid to adventure riding. It is a great pity that Cathy and I have been prevented from continuing on our circumnavigations. It has become expensive and frustrating and has halted us in our quests. I therefore apologise for the lack of any exciting information and will have to fall back on providing some more facts and figures on Mexico which has become our unavoidable home. But I start with a super poster 'Estamo Hartas' which means 'We are not too good'. Suits us!!

Monday 06/12/2021: Mexico has many legends and folk tales and one of them says that long ago a shepherd found a wild lily growing in what today is San Agustín de las Juntas, a settlement near Oaxaca City. When digging to collect the flower by its root, he discovered the head of Donají, a Zapotec princess. This beautiful, decapitated, royal head is today the city's official emblem. The state's name comes from huaxyácac 'in the nose of the guaje plants' in the Náhuatl language. A native tree with white flowers and red and green pods (the three colors of the Mexican flag, before that flag even existed) grows in the region and conceals tasty seeds. For over 10,000 years, a wide variety of indigenous peoples spread and flourished in these diverse environments: The Zapotec, Mixtec, Mazatec, Mixe, Zoque, as well as Afro-Mexicans, mestizos and Spanish thrive together in this area. Today, more than 4,000 indigenous communities in Oaxaca speak 157 dialects, making up 43% of Mexico's languages. More than 8,400 species of plants, 40% of all the plants in Mexico, and 4,500 species of animals, make Oaxaca Mexico's most bio-culturally diverse region.

Wednesday 08/12/2021: I have mentioned dinosaurs several times in my logs as Mexico is their 'home'. A newly discovered species of ankylosaur had a bizarre club on its tail unlike that of any previously known ankylosaur. It has a flat surface and sharp blades along the sides at the back end of Stegouros elengassen, a species of ankylosaur that lived between 72 million and 75 million years ago, which strongly resembles an Aztec war club called a macuahuitl. Its flat tail weapon is unlike that of any other dinosaur. The club is depicted in a 16th century illustration, a flat wooden weapon with sharp obsidian blades along the sides.

Friday 10/12/2021: On our journeys around Africa and South and Central America we have been excited by the variety of wild animals we have seen in their natural habitat. One such were the sloths we saw in the jungles of the Amazon, moving incredibly quickly through the tree branches, about one foot per Hour! Now we hear of Giant Ground sloths! Modern sloths are dedicated vegetarians, but at least one of their massive Ice Age cousins were meat eaters, when they had the chance. Darwin's ground sloth — which could grow to over 3 meters long and weigh as much as 2,000 kilograms — may have been opportunistic scavengers. Darwin's sloth could have managed to ingest already-killed meat. The sloth (Mylodon darwinii) of South America may have been a sometime omnivore but research has indicated that sloths in the distant past had jaws adapted for hunting or powerful enough for chewing and tearing.

As mentioned before the Aztecs were skilful pictogram recorders so I give you another example. Try to decipher what is depicted in this one. Should not be too difficult. Discuss with adults and children.

Sunday 12/12/2021: Lastly this week just to show the doubters, if there are any, that we are in Mexico and sometimes get on the road and out of Escondido. Some roads are challenging and hazards include sharp bends where you are likely be overtaken by trucks driven like Max Verstappen. Bully beef and carrot cake. Cathy and Spencer.

STILL STRANDED!

Thursday 25/11/2021: Looks like we are now caught up in the next fight against the spread of the coronavirus as Mexico has detected its first case of the omicron variant. It was detected in a 51-year-old South African citizen who arrived in Mexico on November 21.The person developed mild COVID-19 symptoms six days later and was admitted to a private hospital in Mexico City. The electron microscope image shows the virus emerging from the surface of cells grown at a laboratory in Rocky Mountain, Montana. Actually looks like demented artist's work.

Sunday 28/11/2021: Despite the threat of Covid-19 spreading the Mexico Marathon was held and Mexican runners came first and second led by Darío Castro and Eloy Sánchez, both of whom are soldiers in the Mexican army, who crossed the finish line together to return Mexico to the podium after a 12-year absence ahead of third-place finisher Rodgers Ondati of Kenya. Castro won the race with a time of 2:14.51 and Sánchez finished just a second after. Ondati recorded a time of 2:17.31.The last Mexican to win the marathon was Edilberto Méndez Hernández from Tlaxcala in 2009. More than 15,000 runners lined up early on Sunday morning outside the Olympic University Stadium in Coyoacán, in the south of Mexico City, for the 42-kilometer race to the historic centre, ending at the city's central square, the zócalo. By world standards the winning time is not particularly fast but the altitude and pollution of Mexico city are factors that prevent athletes from achieving fast times. I hope that the large number of entrants do not catch the new Covid-19 variant as Mexico does not have a high number of vaccinated.

Tuesday 30/11/2021: The last log included a short extract from my next book on the circumnavigation of South America. I continue this on the scourge of the proliferation of rubbish in South and Central America...

Hundreds of young boys and girls, scraps of material tied over their mouths, to deal with the stench, scrabbled through the waste, trying to salvage anything of value. They are known as catadores, and survive by fishing out plastics, metals, cardboard, and other recyclables from the dump, to sell to middlemen. They rummage through detritus, knee deep in reeking mud, watched by massive vultures, who loiter and hop around the children, angrily grabbing scraps of food that are uncovered. There were rats, cockroaches, mosquitos and huge groups of flies, bunched like some obscene cloud, above the dump. None of the 'workers', were older than fifteen. None of them had protective clothing. They were in rags, and flip flops, many getting injured. Nothing looked of value. We waved, as we always do, but there was no reaction from any of them. Blank, grim looks.

The problem of rubbish disposal is something I saw throughout Africa and to a lesser extent, in South America, and to a great extent, Central America. Peru and Guatemala are covered in plastic. Much of Africa is covered in open, landfill sites, with plastic bag trees, children swarming everywhere, and vultures in equal numbers. As humans, we are supposed to be at the top of the food chain. If our children are rummaging through other people's waste, we are far from being civilised, and at the top of the food chain. There are a staggering 20 000 children living on landfill sites in Brazil. Brasilia, the capital has acquired a feature on its land scape, that should be a national disgrace. A few miles from architect Oscar's, world renowned buildings, stands the largest open garbage dump site in the world. It is growing rapidly, and at present, wait for it, is more than 300 acres, roughly the size of 300 football fields. We know we have gone wrong somewhere, in society, when there are street demonstrations by the 'garbage children', to allow them to keep working in these cesspits.

I know many of my readers are into adventure sports and daring-do so I had to include the next snippet which may amaze. A German highline walker broke two world records this week with an aerial crossing of the Sumidero Canyon in Chiapas while blindfolded!! Alexander Schulz, 30, began the tense 800-meter high crossing on the north side of the canyon near the community of El Triunfo at 8:00 a.m., slowly walking the 1,720-meter-long band in 4,080 steps. Look closely at the pic to spot him. Shivery! When he arrived at the Los Chiapa viewpoint on the other side an hour and a quarter later, Governor Rutilio Escandón Cadenas was there to receive him. Schulz is the sport's standout figure and already held a long list of world records before his latest feat, which was organized by the state Tourism Ministry. So for my next challenge I will try to do the same upside-down on my hands.

Wednesday 01/11/2021: Another month and still stranded in Mexico but looking back on my adventure riding covering and filming the Dakar Rally was one of the best days of our lives. This coming Dakar I have no less than five friends competing so am super excited. "Scared is what you're feeling. Brave is what you're doing." Don't stop. Adventure quote of the week. Pleased to announce I will be a Headline Presenter on the main stage at the Adventure Bike Rider Festival 2022 in the UK. I will also be launching my new book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrists Hat'. The world's top adventure motorcyclists, and 5000+ others will be having a blast. Book your tickets and come on down, and say hello to me and Cathy Nel. Respect and top weekend to you all.



And finally something to cogitate. No you cannot eat it. Also check Photo Archive for more Pics.



MEXICO IS WORTH IT

Wednesday 10/11/2021: Apart from the arts and crafts Mexico has a long and fascinating history and, as you know, a dynamic part is related to the Aztecs. A recent book 'The Aztecs Lost Civilization' provides interesting information on the culture of their empire.

The book focuses on people as they engage in farming, marketing, marrying, raising children, healing wounds, participating in rituals and fighting on the battlefield. The Aztec religion was multidimensional rich and complex. The Aztecs worshipped many gods and goddesses, each with their own temples and priests. They recited myths and performed frequent ceremonies with processions, offerings, dances, music and song. Some of these ceremonies included human and animal sacrifices to the sun god Huitzilopochtli - for light and warmth and for the all-important growth of maize. They worshiped the rain and water deities, Tláloc and Chalchiuhtlicuel. The Aztecs had many activities including craft and textile production. All women in the empire learned to spin and weave and to make about 300,000 items of clothing delivered annually to their Aztec overlords

Friday 12/11/2021: Mexico has an abundant wild life, but alas is threatened by human encroachment as in many other parts of the world. Recently a cougar surprised residents in Tamazulápam del Espíritu Santo, a Mixe community in our Oaxaca region. The 2.5 meter cat was first sighted in the undergrowth of an avocado tree, and later captured by local authorities who released it in an area of woodland. Police and residents struggled with the cougar for a few minutes to restrain it. A video posted on social media showed the bound animal being pulled from the property on its back. The feisty feline was loaded, with some difficulty, onto a police pickup truck, where it attempted to free itself by leaping to escape the vehicle, despite being shackled. It was the first time a cougar related incident had been reported in the area, despite their natural habitat being only one kilometre away. We were near the area recently but Conway cougar did not appear.

Tuesday 16/11/2021: Continuing the big cat theme and as reported in a previous log a jaguar was killed recently as it had attacked a young cattle boy but not all jaguars threaten human beings, in fact they often fish for food. Jaguars (Panthera onca), are usually territorial loners that hunt on land, live in a wide array of habitats, ranging from North American deserts to grasslands and tropical rainforests in Central and South America. Mexico has its own jaguar population and is a protected species as long as they do not encroach on peopled areas. They inhabit immense tropical wetlands and often fish for food including aquatic reptiles, such as caiman and turtles.

Thursday 18/11/2021: I am sure you are all wanting to know why ducklings swim in line after their mother! NO! Oh well don't read the next paragraph. It's all to do with Dynamics, as you know. By paddling in an orderly line behind their mother, baby ducks can take a ride on the waves in her wake. That boost saves the ducklings energy. Measurements of duckling metabolism shows that the youngsters save energy when swimming behind a leader. Using computer simulations of water waves, naval architect Zhiming Yuan of the University of Strathclyde in Glasgow, Scotland, and colleagues, calculated that a duckling cruising in just the right spot behind its mother gets an assist. When a duckling swims on its own, it kicks up waves in its wake, using energy that would otherwise send it surging ahead. That wave drag resists the duckling's motion. But ducklings in line experience 158 percent less wave drag than when swimming alone, the researchers calculated, meaning the duckling gets a push instead. Now you can amaze your friends at the next dinner party.

Now to something unpleasant to contrast with animal magic. We share this planet with others who live unlike animals in squalor and misery. This is a short extract from my next book recounting what we discovered when leaving the Amazon jungle and riding the amazing Ghost Road.

After dealing with the brutal, but unspoilt and pristine, BR319, Ghost Road we drove into a hell, made by man. After hundreds of kilometres of red jungle road, nothing but the bike, Cathy and I, and the Amazon animals. We were jarringly reminded, that there was another animal in the world; man. The 'first contact' with man we had, was the smell and taste of burning plastic as we rode straight into a huge plume of dense, black smoke. Our eyes were smarting and it was difficult to breathe. We turned a slippery, red mud corner and ahead of us were kilometres of garbage, in a huge clearing in the jungle. On the left hand side of the road, the whole area was on fire, tonnes of rotting, melting waste, the smoke reaching high into the sky, and blocking out the sun, in a perfect post-apocalyptic scene. On the right hand side, the dump was fifteen foot high with filthy refuse.

To be continued...

Monday 22/11/2021: We are making plans for biking tours in Mexico as reported in the last log. All going well and hoping to finalise some details in the coming weeks. The tours will start from Oaxaca or Mexico City, not resolved yet but we have contacts in both cities. As you know we are back in Escondido and a fair number of Americans have managed to escape the States to take a holiday here. Unfortunately some bring a drug habit with them and are therefore occasionally robbed losing their drug money. Generally Escondido and the coast is a peaceful and friendly location for a relaxed holiday.As you know we are on a limited budget, very limited, so here our latest resting place. Of course there are beach 'residences' which are more suitable for others.

Tuesday 23/11/2021: Look into nature, and then you will understand everything better. Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads. The sun, with all those planets revolving around it, and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of bananas, and a papaya: as if it had nothing else in the universe to do! Fruit for breakfast and showers on the road. Nothing better.

Peace, love and respect from me, and Cathy Nel. Fresh waterfall shrimps, in garlic butter, salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lime, for all! Chopped chillies also, if that's your thing. My website, has been going 12 years, and had more than a million visitors, so thanks for that... cool bunch you are!

P.S. Check out the < photo archive > for some interesting pics.

STILL HOPING FOR BETTER DAYS

Saturday 30/10/2021: Have completed our tour of prospective route for adventure riders. Plan is to take groups on 10 day trips through off-road areas to get a taste of 'real' riding and a feel for the country. Most of you will know that we were stopped in our tracks because of Covid, and we have been in Mexico for over two years. The bonus of this is that we have covered 30 000 kilometres in Mexico alone and know it well. The decision has been made to do a Mexican tour, to open up this incredible part of the country, and some totally unique routes, to all aspiring adventure riders. It will be a combination of medium and advanced riding. Sorry, no novices. We have actually done the ten day to twelve day route, three times already, to iron out the details. The map is simply to provide a location in Mexico. Detailed map to follow later.

The tour will start in Mexico City, where the first day will be checking out the City, picking up the bikes and an orientation meeting. I was going to say initiation, but that sounds hectic. On day two we will head to Puebla, riding between two famous volcanoes. From there we will visit Mitla and head into the mountains west. We will make it down to Acapulco on dirt roads. From there we will hit the coastal route from Acapulco, all the way to Huatulco, fishing and diving. From there we head into the jungle and coffee region, to ride more than four hundred twisties and hairpin bends, changing altitude from Sea level to 3000 metres. From 32 degrees to 5. Then into the pine forests, up to the coast at Vera Cruz, then onwards into Copper Canyon. This will be canyon riding for advanced riders. The rest can take a magical train tour. Then back to Mexico City. 4000 kilometres. This route will be adapted and changed over the next few months, as we do it again. All you will have to concentrate on is enjoying the riding and loving Mexico. We will do the rest. Added bonus is that I have access to a Motocross track in Puerto Escondido, so can help you all become godly riders. Won't be easy, but manageable.

Monday 01/11/2021: Another month and we are back in Escondido and I am waiting for a long delayed operation on my delicate parts that I injured in a crash a good time ago. Now desperately in need of relief from painful affliction. Not funny!

Tuesday 02/12/2021: Surgeon did not turn up! Received an apology said The Day of the Dead had his full attention so not too re-assuring. Hope he doesn't wear a death mask during the op, if and when. Also mentioned bats in my last log and met one face to face in our room hanging on a curtain rail. Tried to get rid of the beast and after a drawn out struggle with it flying around demented, as bats do, threw a towel over it when it stunned itself by flying into a mirror. So much for radar equipment! Got it out still stunned and 'blinded' in the sunlight. Quick photo as it recovered hanging on a tree. Bats can be batty at times as it tried to fly back into our room.

Wednesday 03/11/2021: Having mentioned one creature another popped in for a social visit. Yes! You guessed it. Not another spider! Yes this time two. Jumping spiders. Thought you might like to know a little more about them as followers of the log are beginning to request info on what to look out for in Mexico. Actually don't think it's particularly for insects. Anyway here some interesting facts about arachnids, specifically jumping spiders which I first discovered in Kenya at the age of nought. The eyes of spiders unlike bees and flies, which have compound eyes that merge information from hundreds or thousands of lenses into a single, pixelated mosaic image, the jumping spider has camera-type eyes, similar to those of humans. Each of the spider's eyes has a single lens that focuses light onto a retina. The principal eyes — the big forward-facing ones that just beg us to anthropomorphize (long word for your delectation)  have incredibly high resolution for creatures that are usually between 2 and 20 millimetres long. Their eyesight is sharper than any other spider's and gives them the ability to stalk and pounce on prey with impressive precision. Their sight is comparable to that of much larger animals like pigeons, cats and elephants and nearly as good as a human with 20/20 vision. But that sharp vision covers only a small portion of the spider's field of view. Each of the two principal eyes sees a narrow, boomerang-shaped strip of the world. Together they form an "X" of high-resolution colour vision. An adjacent pair of smaller, less sharp eyes scans a wide field of view in black and white, watching for things that need the attention of the big high-resolution eyes. A jumping spider's visual world is not so different from ours. The animal's principal eyes and first set of secondary eyes together do basically the same job as our two eyes. Like the spider, we focus our attention on a relatively small area and largely ignore the rest until something catches our attention. So if you want to avoid jumping spiders keep still but you might have to remain prone for some time..

Friday 05/11/2021: It is coming up to Remembrance Day in many parts of the world for those who have died in war. In England it is marked by communities making red poppies and placing them on public places. My father has sent me some photos of those in his Kent village. The church and other areas have been decked with poppies that have been hand made from wool and assembled together. Here are two images of examples, others are much larger, but these provide a feel for them. One is a wheel on the wall of the local pub, aptly named the Red Lion and the other is a hat for the red letter box. Typically British. Also for those who would like to know the origin of why red poppies are displayed use google but I include here a link to the famous poem 'In Flanders Fields' which is an evocative memorial. Also for me November 14th is a day to remember my mother, Wendy, who died on this day one year ago. Thinking of you Mother.

Monday 08/11/2021: OK. Another week and hopefully operation soon. Will not be able to ride for six weeks if the surgeon appears. More difficult to get things arranged than capturing Vampire bats. Our resting place pictured in the Photo Archive!! Fried mangos and peanut butter. Cathy and Spencer.

ON TOUR

Wednesday 13/10/2021: As stated in the previous log we are on the road scouting a route for adventure bikers who are looking for some challenging off-road riding. We are on the non-tourist side of the volcano Popocatapetl, Which is over 17000 ft high and continues to be active. We are ready for a quick exit as recently it erupted violently... < you can check it out on this youtube link >

Now staying in a Love Motel. Strangest one of all. Some seductive décor provides the right vibes...

The name Popocatépetl comes from the Nahuatl words popoca Nahuatl pronunciation: [po?po?ka] "it smokes" and tepetl Nahuatl pronunciation: [?tepe?tl] "mountain", meaning Smoking Mountain. The volcano is also referred to by Mexicans as El Popo. Legend says that many years ago, a villager met an old man on the slopes of the mountain, who introduced himself as Gregorio Chino Popocatépetl. Gregorio was a personification of the spirit of the volcano, and communicates with the locals to warn them if an eruption is about to happen. Every March 12, the day of San Gregorio, the locals bring flowers and food to the volcano to celebrate the saint. We went up to 3550 metres but the weather was atrocious. No problem with altitude but only glimpsed the volcano. Staying on a day because better weather predicted. Another day sorted for tour. Six of the ten days. The volcano did not appear out of the mist. Pity!

Friday 15/10/2021: Just been informed that the film director Jorge Gutierrez has created an animated series for Netflix titled 'Maya and the Three' which tells the story of Maya, a warrior princess in a fantasy world. The magical story's setting is based on Aztec, Mayan and Inca mythology, as well as modern day Caribbean culture.

Gutiérrez created the story with a strong female lead that honours Mexican and Latin American culture. He described characters like Maya as "super important, because Hispanic characters and Mexican women in the history of Hollywood have been hyper-sexualized. The character of Maya represents humanity, but she comes from someone from Mexico, not just visually but also from the heart," according to the director. Having caught the promo on you tube it may seem a little frenetic but I am sure that the series will be a success and have appeal more to children than adults. For an idea of the content < click this link > or go to Netflix for all the episodes. The film critic Cristina Escobar comments, "I can't overstate the beauty of "Maya and the Three". It's a different beauty to what Anglo audiences are used to. A lot of animation is "colourful" but that word doesn't come close to describing the dense visuals of "Maya." The nine-part series layers colour, ranging from earth tones to neon, on top of texture to ensure each frame is its own work of art." Can't dispute that!

Sunday 17/10/2021: I seem often to mention various wild life species in my logs so I regale you with another with the unusual name of Vinegaroon!!! This is not a monkey that loves vinegar but a scary insect that looks highly dangerous and will give you the heebie-jeebies if found in your bed at night. In Mexico it is called a vinagrillo or 'simply' Mastigoproctus giganteus giganteus by scientists. They are black, grey or brown, and up to 15 centimetres (six inches) in length, with a pair of claws that look like serious trouble. The needle-like tail, it's actually a flexible organ of touch, is used for investigative purposes and not a stinger, although it does resemble the attributes of a scorpion. I have experienced these creatures first hand under my sleeping bag!! It is called a whip scorpion in English. If you mess with a vinegaroon it will retaliate by spraying you with something that smells just like vinegar. This is a harmless mix of acetic plus caprylic acid and will not hurt you, but when sprayed into the eyes of a cat or dog it will save itself for another day. For a treat click on the link for a sight of the being that is found over a wide area, including the Southern American States. Could include a photo of the creature here but far better to view the video!!... (or check out the photo archive)

Wednesday 20/10/2021: Cathy has been on a crash diet. I personally think she has overdone it, but I am too scared to say. Looks as if she is ready for battle. Jokes aside, The Day of the Dead celebration is next week in Mexico. Everyone celebrates the memories of loved ones, and has street parties. I think it's a brilliant idea. I will celebrate my Mum. Skirting Guatemala border soon.

Saturday 23/10/2021: Day of the Dead is on 2nd November and is an annual festival dedicated to remembering lost loved ones and, yes, to mock something we fear. The underlying belief is that the dead can come back at this time to the land of the living, but it is no coincidence that it occurs at the end of the harvest, when fields die. It is a syncretism of Mesoamerican and Catholic beliefs or, more accurately, the survival of Mesoamerican beliefs about death with a Catholic veneer. It survives in two forms. The older and more "intimate" Day of the Dead is a gathering of friends and family to remember those important to them. The dead are not lamented but welcomed back as part of a family reunion. The other Day of the Dead can be found in the large festivals and parades that have grown in popularity in both Mexico and the United States.



Fruits of the harvest are prominent on Day of the Dead altars, along with photographs of those being remembered and other decorations. Sugar cane is part of the harvest, but it also serves as a preservative, so candied fruits, as well as squash and sweet potatoes in syrup, are also traditional. Sugar was relatively expensive in the colonial period, so using it to make skulls and other figures acted as a kind of offering. By far, the most popular sugar figures are highly decorated skulls, generally with a space on the forehead for adding a name. That name can be of someone living or dead. If the name is of the dead, the homage is obvious, but why put the name of someone who is alive? It certainly is not to wish another person dead. The conceptual line between life and death in Mexico is thinner than in Anglo cultures. If the recipient is a child, gifting of a sugar skull serves as a lesson that death is part of life. They are more often given as tokens of affection among co-workers and adult family members. I include a pic of ancient DOD figures from Mexico Museum. See < photo archive > for others.

Tuesday 26/10/2021: Continuing on our route finding we met three Wendy's today in Zapotec area, traditional Indians. Unbelievable. Never met another Wendy in my life. The only one was my mother who died on November 14th last year. Still sad days. We were searching for a Mayan Shrine and told to follow a sign. We found the sign but assume one had to know the magic words to read the directions.

Lastly Mexico is known to have some pretty good boxers and nearly had a head to head with an up-and-coming pretender to Tyson Fury's crown. Got a photo before I was donnered!

Love and respect to everyone. Chilli falafels for all.

ON THE ROAD AT LAST

Monday11/10/2021: Finally after many months of kicking heels we are back on the road but not to continue circumnavigation as intended. We are investigating possible routes for off-road rides for bikers who would like to be challenged by more difficult and exciting trips in Mexico. Doing ten day route for tour prep, so mapping accommodation, distances, on off road sections, fuel and food consumption etc. Will do tour October next year.

Tuesday 12/10/2021: We are in Rio Seco. Had the toughest ride ever, through rivers and very rough terrain and some indigenous helped us to get through. Fell four times but OK. We found a kitten in the bush so she has been riding in Cathy's jacket for the last four days. Finally nailed some great shots for the magazine articles that I have already written.

Wednesday 13/10/2021: We met a commune of American linguists who live outside Mitla and are studying the Zatopec languages. They are also Jehovah's witnesses and believe in UFOs and can cure cancer. Weird. But the bonus is that a couple took our kitten for their 16 year old son, so she will have a good life. Apparently 3 UFOs visited the area in 1990, so they built a commune on the site awaiting the next visit.

Today we tried to get over the central mountains of Mexico on a rough track. We were stopped and told the road was closed. We ignored that and carried on and soon we were driving past gigantic greenhouses of Marijuana. Met up with some real traditional Zapotec Indians, no photos allowed. Rode through the Marijuana area, and confronted by gangs of guys in pick-ups and spotted rows of drying racks and sheets on the dry riverbed. Men with dogs and automatic weapons. Not your run of the mill farmers After meeting a few gun toting fellows, we didn't risk continuing as felt some threatening vibes so retraced bike steps to a safer area.

Thursday 14/10/2021: Have managed to nail four days of a mini tour, with accommodation, lunch stops, access to beautiful off road sections and use of a motocross track to give some training to inexperienced riders. We now need to plan a longer round trip from Escondido and back for a ten day tour. Riders will stay in a succession of overnight locations as in a jungle cabin, a coffee Finca, a Spanish Colonial Hotel, and a cactus desert camp. Superb variety! We will not attempt prohibited roads to reassure those of you who want to join out tours! Now working on the costs for groups. Looks like we have twelve signed up already. Have contact with an outlet in Oaxaca City to print business cards and T Shirt logo. Also a screen printer Chap from Sam Manicom so can do the T Shirts, Sweatshirts, neck scarves etc.

Saturday 16/10/2021: As mentioned we got to Mitla, and the Mesoamerican archaeological site, in Oaxaca state, southern Mexico. One of Mexico's best known ruins lies at an elevation of 4,855 ft (1,480 m) on the eastern edge of one of several cold, high valleys surrounded by the mountains of the Sierra Madre del Sur, 24 mi (38 km) southeast of Oaxaca city. It is generally believed that Mitla (Nahuatl: Place of the Dead) was established as a sacred burial site long before the Christian Era, probably by the Zapotecs, whose influence was predominant until about AD 900. Between 900 and 1500 the Mixtecs moved down from northern Oaxaca and took possession of Mitla it is the Mixtec influence that is most pronounced on the existing ruins. The Spaniards arrived at Mitla in 1521, and the first European account of the area was given by Diego García de Palacio in 1576. The photo is from archives taken in 1921.

Promised to end the Franco extracts from my book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' so here is the last episode which is longer than usual so you can get the picture!

We had agreed to go together to Sonjha's restaurant and Franco had commandeered a Combi van to get us there!!!! Franco jumped in the driver's seat with 'texting daughter' next to him. Franco assumed the predictable driving position; sunglasses, one hand on the wheel, elbow leaning on the open window. He looked pretty cool, (if it wasn't a Combi), turned, nodded to us both and said, "Vamonos."

Then all hell broke loose. He kangarooed, or Alpacaed off, at full speed, in reverse, accelerated wildly, clipping the two concrete gate bollards as we went. We careered onwards, (well backwards), only just staying on the steep hillsides, curved driveway. On we went, bouncing and jolting, directly into the main road and across it, like a bunch of demented lunatics. Cathy and I were both screaming by now. Luckily there were no cars coming in either direction, otherwise we would have been savagely side swiped and we would all be brown bread. Across the road we went and off the other side, into a rough patch of grass, the Combi bouncing violently. We all hit our heads. Then we went over a cliff. (Echo effects).That wasn't good. OK. I exaggerate. We went half way off a cliff, which makes all the difference between life and death, to be honest. Franco and texting daughter hadn't uttered a sound. As the two back wheels went off the cliff, half the Combi dangling in thin air, there was a huge wrenching bang and a metallic tearing and we came to an abrupt and aggressive stop. I was quite pleased about that. We were hanging there like a pendulum, so I wasn't totally happy. A rocking Combi on a cliff has been in movies since forever, so we acted appropriately. Cathy and I threw ourselves towards the front. With respect to Franco and text fiend, they remained super chilled. Franco was just sitting there, totally still, sunglasses on, staring straight ahead. "No problem James. It stops. Big rock." Well, he was technically correct, the swaying was not too hectic, as long as no one breathed. Franco's daughter was sitting on the edge of a precipice, in a dodgy hippie mobile, texting a friend.

"Daddy drove off a cliff and we are going to die, so I won't make it round tonight." Or something like that. Maybe she was texting her mother, "Start the Grand Opening and dinner without us, Daddy messed up." It was evident that they were not going to move, so I gently edged towards the side of the Combi and slid open the door, to get myself to safety. Sorry, I meant to get Cathy to safety. We jumped onto a rocky ledge, as the Combi slipped and went over the cliff. Sorry, that's the movies. The whole central section of the Combi was grounded on thick soil and the rear right wheel and mangled bumper were wedged against a large rounded boulder. The left wheel was a metre clear of the ground. This rock one hundred percent saved us all from meeting our Maker. It was not a sheer drop, but was steep enough and long enough for us to roll endlessly to the Pearly Gates. We were very lucky. We all scrambled carefully out of the driver's door and stood up on the main road, surveying the carnage. A pick up truck with four Electrical Contractors on the back stopped and a "Vehicle Recovery Strategy Meeting" was started in earnest. Franco was standing quietly, surveying the damage, totally unperturbed and smiling slightly. It could have been wind. He then came out with one of the most memorable and classic lines I have ever heard. I said quietly but forcefully and dramatically, "Jesus Christ Franco, what the hell happened there. I thought we were going to die."

He furrowed his brow, thought for a minute, brushed his curtains back from his eyes, spread his hands out in the air in front of him and announced glumly, "I don't know how to drive car, only Moto." I knew this could not be true but answered, "I can see that!" We both burst into crying tears of laughter. "OK. Let's fix," he said enthusiastically. Now there is no way of being polite. The four of them had absolutely no clue what they were doing. They put random rocks and logs in random places, with no appreciation of physics. They just wheel spun the Combi to hell and gone, creating deep grooves in the mud and getting into even more of a Peruvian pickle.

If you want to know how it turned out I apologise, you will have to read the book.

I include here a photo of a Combi which is an exact model of Franco's (Porkie Pies) I thought it suitable as it is an example of the remarkable art work of Angelique Grimaldos, who paints walls, surfboards, signs etc. I call it 'On the 'Crest of a Wave'. We were not on a wave but the crest of a mountain.

That's all for this log so red-hot peppers and ice cream. Love to all. Cathy and Spencer from the Andes.

WHAT IS LIFE?

Sunday 03/10/3021: Why the opening lines of the W H Davies poem quoted below? It seems apt that as we are at a standstill for one reason or another this poem comes to mind to relieve the stress of the past weeks and months not going anywhere, not achieving anything. Circumnavigation on the back burners. Frustrating and costly but hopefully the gods might eventually smile on us so we can pursue our quest. Click on the link for the complete poem, it is only 14 lines long. Apologies for its Britishness.

"What is this life if, full of care, We have no time to stand and stare..."

Monday 04/10/2021: Woken at 3.30 early morning by the sound of gunfire, shouting and various other loud noises from about two hundred metres away. Lasted about 40 minutes and then the sight of flames and smoke rising into the morning sky. No idea what was afoot.

Tuesday 05/10/2021: After the previous night's happenings maybe a little tame to continue with the extract from my book on the Peruvian Gigolo but started so I have to continue. In the last log I stated that I would recount how Franco nearly sent us to the other side, nearly Brown Bread (rhyming slang) but need to give you info on why I call him the Peruvian Gigolo.

Early the next morning Franco and I headed into the local town to try and pick up some inner tubes, with Franco as my jittery over excited pillion. If you are impatient or in a hurry, never travel with Franco. It took us an hour to go a couple of kilometres. Franco is unable to go past a pretty woman, full stop. "Stop Spencer, one minute, I need to talk to this girl, she likes me very much." Two minutes later, "James, sorry, this girl has problems with her moto. I need to fiddle with a few of her parts" Or something like that. Five hundred metres later, "You don't have to stop but slow down. Look at her!" Franco whistled and shouted his way down the route, but everybody knew Franco and his beaming smile. A difficult guy to get annoyed with. The girls knew full well he was filled with nonsense, but they loved him anyway and used to blush into their hands. I liked how he gently edged me out of the way when he was talking to the next girl, so that he could lean against my motorcycle in a James Dean type pose. Franco had swallowed the Dictionary of Latin American Compliments. Some might call it sexist, I just found it endearing and fun as he sat behind me, enthusiastically thinking up his next comment. "Que bonita." (How beautiful) "Estas buena." (You are hot).

"Estas hermosa, Te ves estupenda." "Eres lista," etc etc. Or more simply put and possibly a shade sexist "Buen trabajo." (Great job) Or more simply, shouting across the road, "Me gusta tu sonrisa." (I love your smile) "Eres un tesoro." (You are a treasure) These compliments were followed by air kisses and did the trick every time. Franco's behaviour, language and mannerisms were in no way typically Peruvian and possibly a great deal of romantic films had been watched. Eventually we made it to the inner tube shop but not before Franco arranged a tentative date with a street Tortilla seller with three missing toes. Now polygamy is not really common in Peru in the modern day, however, men having more than one household is tolerated and often expected amongst traditional people. Franco certainly had it covered.

Apart from the thirty-seven girlfriends loitering around each corner, we also learnt that he had another wife in Sauce, the fittingly named town his family were from. Franco had a daughter, Sonjha with Susan, the Cuy preparer but he also had three boys with Ellie, called Etni, Franco and Jim. I refuse to judge because firstly it is not my society and secondly, I have never seen a happier or closer couple. Franco's fifteen-year-old daughter, who was petite and smooth, like her mother, obviously worshipped the ground he walked on. When she wasn't texting (yes, even in the mountain villages of Peru) she would be saying "Daddy did this, daddy knows how to do that, Daddy can fix that." Great people and lovely vibe off all of them".

Next time how Franco nearly led us into the Valley of Death!

Wednesday 06/10/2021: As most of you know Mexico is the home of impressive wild life both now and in the past. In prehistoric times dinosaurs were the 'kings of the jungle' but they were not always the awesome beasts that come to mind as depicted in the film 'Jurassic Park'. The biggest beasts to walk the Earth had humble beginnings. The first dinosaurs were cat-sized, lurking in the shadows, just waiting for their moment.

This occurred when four major waves of volcanic activity changed the climate in a geological blink of an eye, causing a 2-million-year-long rainy spell that stimulated the growth of dinosaurs. During a geologically brief rainy period 234 million to 232 million years ago, known as the Carnian Pluvial Episode, dinosaurs started evolving into the gigantic and diverse creatures that would dominate the landscape for the next 166 million years.At the same time, terrestrial plants evolved, with humidity-loving flora becoming predominant. As the rains created wet environments, turtles, large amphibians, and dinosaurs began to thrive. A later cycle of volcanic activity and environmental change starting about 184 million years ago paved the way for the biggest of all dinosaurs, long-necked sauropods, and the terrifying T-Rex to dominate the landscape. Mexico, of course, had its dinosaurs and fossil remains are still being found in the country. Just when you thought it was safe to go back into the jungle on a dodgy Tenere!

Thursday 07/10/2021: Many ancient civilisations used a form of writing known as hieroglyphs as did the Aztec who called themselves Mexica Scribes used hieroglyphs to report on the life of a civilization, from its rulers to its battles — even its taxes. They conveyed this information in a both creative and accessible way, through vibrant colour and vivid imagery of people, animals and places. The Aztecs' writing system ranks among other great writing systems as the Egyptian hieroglyphs, Sumerian cuneiform and Japanese calligraphy. After the Spanish conquest, it suffered catastrophic losses. Documents, books and artefacts were destroyed, and gone forever from Mesoamerica. All books of Aztec writing were lost except one, the Mendoza codex, created about twenty years after the Spanish conquest of Mexico with the intent that it be seen by Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain. Hence a survival of Aztec culture and an example of their writing.

Saturday 09/10/2021: On to other aspects of Mexican culture. The origin of the symbols on the centre of the country's flag, which were first adopted in 1823, are based on an Aztec Indian legend about how the country's capital, Mexico City, was founded. According to the legend, Huitzilopochtli, the Aztec's supreme deity, instructed the Aztec people to seek a place, directed by the god, for a site where an eagle sitting on a prickly pear cactus, growing on a rock in a lake, was eating a snake. It took 200 years of wandering but they finally came upon that exact scene, and the city of Tenochtitlán, that became Mexico City, was founded.

The paddles (nopales) of the cactus are a part of traditional Mexican cuisine, used in stews, tacos and many other foods; the fruit is the tuna, also known as pitaya or prickly pear. The cactus plants grow to be quite large and formidable and are used for fencing to this day. The tunas are also called prickly pears, as the skin is covered with two kinds of spines: small clusters of hard, whitish spines grow all over the small fruits and are visible to the eye, but there are also soft, hairy filaments on the fruits. Prickly pears are commonly eaten today following a variety of cooking menus. Beware the occasional spine!!

Sunday 10/10/2021: As we have been prevented from making progress on the bike and with little to do except listen to gunfire and watch the wildlife, tarantulas, Cathy has been looking for new outlets to scale the heights of challenges so has taken to aerial pursuits as in the picture.

Next log one further episode on Franco and by then hopefully we may be back on the bike. So Prickly Pears to you with mashed avocado. Check the Photo Archive for recent pics. Cathy and Spencer

WOULD YOU ADAM AND EVE IT!

Monday 27/09/2021: For those of you who are not familiar with Cockney Rhyming Slang - probably not many I expect as my readers are an erudite, educated, up-market, experienced and well-travelled coterie - rhyming slang emanates from the East End of London, UK and is a form of word construction in the English language especially prevalent in England, Ireland and Australia. It was first used in the early 19th century by Cockneys in the London suburb so that the managers and bosses could not comprehend what the workers were discussing! Thus "Adam and Eve It" = Believe It. Google the link for an excellent and informative guide... https://www.cockneyrhymingslang.co.uk/

Anyway stymied once again as we were about to escape from Escondido as the radiator cap on my Tenere disintegrated. No pressure so spluttered to a halt. Will we ever get back on the road?

Wednesday 29/09/2021: Last week I introduced you to the Peruvian Gigolo so herewith a continuation highlighting a meal to be remembered.

The next day, with a sore head and a sore knee, Franco was true to his word. He turned up with his petite and pretty wife, Susan, a softly spoken, elegant woman, and with a Guinea Pig. A big one. A bodybuilding steroid Guinea Pig. As big as his wife.

At this point I will interject with a few facts for the vegetarians, vegans and general Guinea Pig lovers out there. It will probably make no difference to your opinion, but it will make me feel better. The Guinea Pig, Cavia Porcellus is a species of rodent belonging to the family Cavidae and the genus Cavia. Despite their name, Guinea Pigs are not native to Guinea, have not even been on holiday to Guinea and are not even remotely related to pigs.

They actually originated in the Andes and studies based on biochemistry and hybridisation suggest that they were originally domesticated as livestock, as a source of protein and yumminess. They have kiddies every three months, between three and eight, so are totally sustainable, nifty breeders. For 5000 years Guinea Pigs have fed rural communities in Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile, countries deeply and frequently affected by malnutrition and unemployment. The Cuy features prominently in traditional festivals- famously, a cooked Guinea pig lies paws up in the celebrated 1753 painting of the Last Supper by Marcos Zapata in the Cathedral Basilica in Cusco. Guinea Pigs were munchies for the Andean people long before they became pets in the west. So who were we to argue? If it was good enough for Jesus and his disciples, it's good enough for us.

The meal was superb and was cut up into a tasty stew. We would not have known it was a Guinea pig if we hadn't seen the dismembering beforehand. In fact, Cuy is growing in popularity in high end restaurants and is helping to usher a boost in the return of a traditional and environmentally friendly industry, led by women. Top Chefs in Peru and Colombia have brought the meat back into popularity with roasted, curried and even sweetened versions appearing on menus. The squeamishness of foreign visitors facing a deep fried dish of Cuy chactado, has also been reflected in sectors of Peruvian society where the aesthetics of eating a rodent were problematic. No such thing in Ecuador.

Next time an adventure with Franco that nearly sent us to the other side!!ths.. The Mixtec were organized in kingdoms or city-states ruled by kings who collected tributes and services from the inhabitants of the area.

Thursday 30/09/2021: Recently Mexico celebrated the 200th anniversary of independence so the Bank of México has released a new 20-peso bill (about US $1) recalling the moment exactly two centuries ago when the rebel army entered Mexico City on September 27th 1821, and declared independence on the 29th. The note depicts a painting which hangs in Chapultepec Castle called "The Solemn and peaceful entry of the Army of the Three Guarantees into Mexico City on September 27 from the memorable year of 1821" It glorifies the moment the army took Mexico city. A series of events is planned for 2021 to recall two centuries since independence, 500 years since the fall of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlán, and - rather more dubiously - 700 years since the ancient city's foundation.

Friday 01/10/2021: Another month and attempting to get the bike back on the road. These setbacks are driving me batty. An idiom meaning 'to annoy or frustrate one to the point of exasperation'. As if you didn't know! But battiness comes from bats! So some aside on these lovely creatures, friends of Dracula, a refined gentle man who enjoyed sucking blood from beautiful female victims. Grim. But not the Vampire bats but the Lesser Long Nosed Mexican variety. Although it weighs less than an ounce, this bat has a big impact in Mexico. It pollinates the agave plant that humans use to make tequila, earning it the nickname of the "tequila bat". For decades an ecologist, Rodrigo Medellín, has been working to preserve this tiny but vital species. Rodrigo is known as "The Bat Man of Mexico" and is celebrated by the British natural historian Sir David Attenborough in a documentary produced by the British Broadcasting Corporation. It follows Medellín's determined campaign to save the lesser long-nosed bat, in part by raising awareness of its importance to the tequila industry.

As he explains, an agave plant reproduces just once in its life, via a flower created by sugar that has accumulated in the plant. Bats feed on nectar from the flower. In doing so, they help agave plants exchange genes with each other. "If I were to make an organization chart of the most important mammals in the world," naturalist Rodrigo Orozco states, "I would put bats at the very top of the chart. Every night nectar-eating bats do the same kind of pollination work that bees do by day. At the same time, fruit-eating bats spread seeds far and wide, creating biodiversity, while insect-eating bats prevent bugs from multiplying out of control. Believe it or not, I would rate the bat as the most important mammal in the world. Without it, the human race wouldn't stand a chance."

So try to love these little creatures. They are a vital part of our life cycle. When you sip your tequila spare a thought for Rodrigo striving to save the little bats for the future.

Saturday 02/10/2021: Whilst kicking heels in Escondido and also trying to find a reasonable resting place that we can afford I have been steadily writing my next book which is to be called 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat'. At least when we are unable to ride I have the opportunity to type up the text. Cathy tried typing on the tablet on the back of the bike as I dictated the copy but lasted for about two minutes!! Also been looking for alternative transport just to get around the town to seek out supplies. Actually found something that looked suitable but decided against it after lengthy thoughts. About one minute! Take a look at the picture 'If in Need'.

That's all for this Log. So fried Guinea Pig and tomato sauce from Cathy and Spencer.

STILL IN MEXICO

Tuesday 14/09/2021: We are heading into the jungle again in the next few days to carry out research for articles for Overland, ABR and National Geographic Traveller magazines that we were trying to do when I went down with Covid. Have to go over 2000 metres in the mountains so we will see how lungs cope. We intend to travel for five weeks ending up at the Day of the Dead celebrations in Oaxaca City. Hope we make it this time.

Thursday 16/09/2021: The last log introduced you to the Peruvian Gigolo so here is a continuation of the part he played in our lives. Having been met by Franco and welcomed to our lodgings he decided to celebrate our arrival in a 'friendly' manner.

On the road we saw several signs to beware of wild life on the lower slopes of the road to our resting place. (one such as in the pic below) Down in the valley, was the tiny figure of a woman, leading a happily braying donkey, a goat and a dog into the distance. Ant like agricultural figures hard at work were sprinkled across the valley floor. The odd battered pick up rolled through, leaving a cloud of dust, and coughing people in its wake. It was a beautiful view and a beautiful house. Franco showed us around more formally and then we headed to the balcony for a celebratory drink. Neither of us was surprised when within an hour Franco was on the wooden table, singing and cavorting around in a ludicrously oversized, fraying straw hat and yellow sunglasses, the frames the shape of two stars.

Downing a lager Franco announced, "Tomorrow we eat Cuy, Guinea pig, you know it?" he asked enthusiastically. "For sure, we know them as pets but not to eat," I answered. Franco raised his eyes and whistled. "Tomorrow my wife prepare Cuy and the next day she open Chinese restaurant in town. We go to eat. Yes?" "That sounds fantastic Franco, thanks so much and great to finally meet up," I said. "Watch that step Franco." Oh dear!

Next time we eat Guinea Pig!

Saturday18/09/2021: Like elsewhere in the world statues and references to colonialism are being removed or changed to reflect current attitudes to past events. Mexico is following the trend but not without controversy. A statue of an indigenous Olmec woman will be installed on a Mexico City avenue at a location where a statue of Christopher Columbus stands. The Columbus statue will be moved, with the authorization of the National Institute of Anthropology and History, and in its place there will be recognition of women. The Olmec civilization is known as the "mother culture" of Mesoamerica because most scholars believe it was the first in the region and influenced those that emerged in later years. Thus, a new statue will be erected on Paseo de la Reforma – which is home to numerous monuments and "anti-monuments."

The removal of the Columbus statue is not an attempt to erase the history of the Europeans' arrival in Mexico according to the authorities. It has been stated that the relocation of the statue is not about hiding it. Columbus is a "great" and "universal " personage." Some people think that the Spanish brought civilization to Mexico [but] that's not true," Mayor Sheinbaum stated "We have centuries of history and that which comes from outside isn't better." Actually the move has been opposed by thousands who believe that it is wrong to re-write history.

Sunday 19/09/2021: Came across some news which has nothing to do with political correctness. Something more heartening. Raúl and Imelda inspired the artist Sr. Mickrone to create a mural near their home in Iztapalapa. The 83-year-old lady and her husband are now well known in the neighbourhood The artist was looking for inspiration and found it in the most humble of circumstances when he saw an older couple in a working class neighbourhood of Mexico City showing affection and taking some sun. Raúl and his wife Imelda, who uses a wheelchair, caught his attention. "I was painting ... when I saw a couple from the neighbourhood walking with a wheelchair. They sat down and I noticed that he was being affectionate and took her head onto his chest. "I talked to them and mentioned that I would like to create a mural where they could see it." .Once it was finished, the artist uploaded some photos to Facebook, where they went viral. "I think it touched some very important feelings to do with the pandemic. You can see that the people are adults, and they still love each other." The couple go out every day and sit in the same spot to enjoy the sun, and others have taken photos of them as well.

Monday 20/09/2021: It doesn't come as a surprise to me that Mexico is by far the easiest country in the world to get a driver's license Citizens can legally drive a vehicle according to an international survey without a check on ability or experience.. Aspiring drivers are helped by incredibly loose regulations, as in a large portion of the country you do not have to take a practical test to get a license, just a theory test and moreover, prior to 2018 there was no test at all. Another reason is that you can legally drive at 15 in Mexico which is younger than most countries in the world where the age is 18. .The granting of licenses is regulated at the state level, and so requirements can vary widely. Nonetheless, it is generally a simple procedure, the general process to gain a license requires an official identification, proof of address, the payment of fees, and in some cases a theoretical exam. Some states go as far as to demand proof of a driver's competence in a practical exam. However, in Mexico City, one of the cities with the highest density of traffic in the world, there is no examination process.

Tuesday 21/09/2021: Just a couple of photos from a recent photographic competition. One picks up on the Metal Talons theme of a previous log where even minute creatures have created metal reinforced claws to inflict wounds by slicing and cutting recipients. This menacing, microscopic snapshot shows a side view of the rear leg and claw of a hog louse (Haematopinus suis). The hog louse lives primarily on swine, where the insect feeds on blood, and is one of the largest sucking lice. As we are in dinosaur territory thought the other photo relevant as it depicts a close up view of a thin slice of mineralized dinosaur bone, shown at five times magnification. This showcases a dizzying display of colour, thanks to how polarized light interacts with the mineral. I think I need to upgrade my camera!!!

Friday 24/09/2021: About to set off so some final words which some of you may have read on my social media posts. Thanks everyone for comments. The road to success is always under construction. Lead me not into temptation, I can find the way myself. I always wanted to be someone, now I realise I should have been more specific. I am a strong man and live by my own rules (reviewed, revised and approved by knife wielding Cathy Nel)... but still my own. Travelling has always been in my genes. When I was a child, my parents moved a lot, but I always found them. Stay well everyone, and remember, the worst time to have a heart attack, is during a game of charades. I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

Peace, love, respect from me and Cathy Nel and an ice cold Stella Artois and a cheers for all.

REMAIN CALM AND CARRY ON

Wednesday 01/09/2021: Another month has whizzed by, not without mishaps as previously recorded. As you know I have suffered from coronavirus and Mexico continues to have a high number of cases. On Tuesday more than 15,000 new cases were announced as the third wave of the pandemic continues to afflict much of the country. The official death toll is now 265,541. The accumulated case tally is just under 3.45 million. Oaxaca, where we are, is one of many states currently recording high case numbers amid the delta variant. A poor supply of vaccines has meant that millions of Mexicans remain vulnerable to infection and illness as the highly contagious delta strain circulates widely. Many of the new cases have been detected in young people, who are far less likely to be fully vaccinated, and children, who have been shown to be more susceptible to infection with delta than previous variants. Cathy and I are now more than ever careful to avoid crowded places.

Friday 03/09/2021: Some readers (two) have asked me to continue including extracts from my book, perhaps to avoid the cost of purchase, so not wanting to refuse requests herewith an extract that will be continued in the next couple of logs.

The Peruvian Gigolo

We were, on top of the world, well on top of a mountain in Peru, waiting at a petrol station for Franco to come and meet us introduced by a friend, Dave, of ours from Charing, UK, who had said we could have his house, not permanently obviously, whilst he was elsewhere. We heard Franco from five kilometres away, on what would turn out to be a well-used XT500 with no exhaust. It was quite an entrance and appropriate for a man whose reputation preceded him. He sped up the opposite side of the road, waving to us wildly as he swung round the roundabout, into the station. He stopped the bike and jumped off in front of us, hand outstretched in one smooth Peruvian version, Jason Statham type move. Etni Franco Guevara was a shorter version of all the following people, mixed into one ball of energy – Antonio Banderas, George Lopez, Andy Garcia, Benjamin Bratt and his namesake Che Guevara.

I think he lightly modelled himself on Che, as he had the full mane of hair, the scraggly uneven beard and even the revolutionary beret. We both warmed to Franco immediately with his pearly white teeth and genuine grin. He was about thirty five and had a hint of lines around his eyes, a sign of a great deal of smiling, sun and wind. He was wearing pair of blue, 'definitely mechanic's' jeans, a grey O Neill T-shirt with holes in it, (from clothes munching insects) and black, scuffed to hell army boots. Franco sported a dark blue bandana, which was failing desperately to keep his hair under control. He had a scarf tied round his right wrist and a chunky silver chain. He had three or four days stubble sprouting on his sun bronzed face, but not covering the sparkle in his eye. We received big hugs and rode together to David's house along the most stunning mountain route. A massive fertile, green valley stretched ahead of us as far as the eye could see. On the horizon, the Andes mountains loomed up 3000 metres, imposing, beautiful, roughly hewn and snow-capped.

Next time 'Adventures with Franco',

Sunday 05/09/2021: As mentioned before art is a central part of the culture of Mexico and for centuries the inhabitants of Mexico used pictograms to record events in their life. Pictograms are another example of Mexican interest and skill in an art forms. One example, as in the image, depicts an earthquake that took place in the year 1507. The quake is represented by the symbol composed of four dotted yellow rectangles overlain by four helices in blue and white with a red eye at the centre. The pictogram also shows one impact of the quake: the drowning of 1,800 warriors in a river. Amazingly there exists a 50-page codex of colourful, complex pictograms that dates to the early 16th century that includes the most complete chronologies of early earthquakes in the Americas. The Telleriano-Remensis, which was created by an unknown pre-Hispanic civilization, depicts 12 separate earthquakes that rocked Mexico and Central America from 1460 to 1542. The famous codex was written by specialists called tlacuilos, meaning "those who write painting" in the Nahuatl language spoken by Aztecs and other pre-Hispanic civilizations in the area Yet another aspect of Mexican culture to be admired!

Wednesday 08/09/2021: Now to something more biting and closer to home. As you know I was recently zapped by a vicious hornet that created puncture marks to my skin and caused a severe and highly painful reaction, swelling of both arms and a dangerous shock. It may seem incredible that small insects can so easily slice or puncture human skin, even through clothing, but these 'pesky varmints' have metal teeth!! Scientists already knew that some small 'animals' piercing and slashing body parts are infused with metals such as zinc and manganese, making the parts tough and durable. Recently, however, physicist at the University of Oregon used a special microscope to examine the sharp "teeth" that line the jaws of leaf-cutting ants called Atta cephalotes, revealing the teeth's atomic structure. The team found that zinc atoms were dispersed homogeneously, rather than in chunks, throughout a single tooth. This uniformity allows the ants to grow thin, sharp blades. This is also the case for spider fangs, scorpion stingers and marine worm jaws and a variety of other species. The metal-fortified body parts have the kinds of properties that you want in a knife or needle and the zinc-infused teeth provide 'insects' with the power to puncture and cut using only about 60 percent of the energy and muscle mass they would otherwise need. By making these sharp, precisely sculpted tools, ants and other small creatures can compensate for their tiny muscles, allowing them to acquire and process foods that would normally be beyond their capabilities. Dracula had similar teeth for his blood sucking escapades!!

Saturday 11/09/2021: To continue, an item of Mexican interest, particularly for those into beverages. Most of you know of tequila, the strong alcoholic drink popular in the country but do you know of Mezcal? Well, tequila is actually a type of mezcal it has its own unique distillation process and a very specific way that it should be tasted. It was being produced in Mexico long before the arrival of the Spanish — at that time in clay pots, a process that some mezcal masters still use today. With the arrival of the Spanish came the introduction of the alcohol still, particularly the "Filipino" still, which continues to be used today.

The most common type of mescal is produced from the espadín agave which needs at least eight years to mature. Its hearts weigh up to 300 kilograms. The level of alcohol is a factor in mezcal's quality — a good mezcal is 43% or higher. You can test a bottle by shaking it or pouring it and seeing how many "pearls," or bubbles, are formed. The longer the bubbles last before popping and the more medium-sized bubbles there are, the more likely that you have a good bottle.

It is not advisable to take more than a couple of glassfuls!! Decided chances of hallucinations!!

Sunday 12/09/2021: Reflections

Psychologists who study well-being have long suggested that to live a satisfying life it is achieved via two paths: 'happiness'' and 'meaningfulness'. A happy life is one of joy, comfort and security, and the meaningful life is one of significance, purpose and coherence, or order. Happiness and meaning can run parallel or intersect. One has to attempt to pursue both to achieve a satisfying life but the problem is that these concepts are largely rooted in personal and societal stability which, for most, is an impossibility as we have seen on out travels around the world.



RECOVERING IN MEXICO

Saturday 21/08/2021: The hornet attack as reported in the previous log has taken several days for the pain and swelling to subside. Don't wrangle with a hornet, the sting is not recommended!! In fact avoid these beasts unless you want to experience an extended period of pain, not enjoyable. The result of Covid-19 has forced isolation for 14 days so not yet released from our five star hotel accommodation.

Sunday 22/08/2021: As promised in this log I include the next part of the account of my Dakar saga...

Cathy not being able to act as camera person for the Dakar a Polish biker agreed to film in her stead. It soon became clear that on the way to the observation point that Slavic was rather an erratic individual in his riding and general behaviour. We managed to get to the filming point after several hours of riding to find an amazing spectacle of Rally tents, support crews, media etc. and hundreds of wildly enthusiastic locals. After one or two minor mad-cap incidents this is what happened.

NAKED DESERT RUNNER FROM POLAND CAUSES DAKAR CRASH

OK. Those were not the headlines in La Nacion newspaper the next day, but they could have been. Guess what Slavic did next. After following me a few steps up the hill, he turned and bolted back down the dune, removing his boots as he ran. He then sat/fell and simultaneously removed his motorcycle trousers and underwear, quickly and impressively, I must admit. He stood up in his white T shirt and stained white socks, his proud belly sticking out from underneath his BMW shirt. He then gyrated his hips in a circular motion, displaying his Polish jewels to huge applause. Did I mention 5000 people, now it was 8000. By this stage, the organisers were livid, and Slavic had, unsurprisingly caught the attention of security and the Police who were armed to the hilt, and rapidly approaching. Surrender was not an option in Slavic's head. Now he was William Wallace. Off he ran, at Dakar speed across the dunes, not before taking a quick detour across the road, crossing the route of the soon to arrive competitors. He ran down the line of spectators, arms in the air, like a World Cup winning striker, before peeling off across the desert with many uniforms after him. Success and fame would be short lived, and he was rugby tackled by five men, much like a streaker at an English football match. Except, in a desert and no football to be seen. The crowd were cheering on hysterically and when he was tackled, undoubtedly causing friction to his tackle, there was a collective 'Ahh' of disappointment that he had been caught. He escaped for a final time from the clutches of the law, then it was a Champions League goal reaction from the crowd, followed by a red card. Pavel was finally taken down.

POST SCRIPT: Pavel was put in a lock up overnight and was due to be in court but we managed to persuade the Police to release him into our custody with strict instructions to make sure he left the area pronto. We celebrated with music and a meal.

The full account of what transpired later can be read in 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker.' It is surprising.
The turkey bones and other elements are part of a probable tattoo kit found in a burial pit in Tennessee. Damage on the tips of the two turkey leg bones resembles distinctive wear previously observed on experimental tattooing tools made from deer bones. Pigment-stained seashells in the grave may have held solutions into which tattooists dipped those tools. Here in Mexico tattooists make their craft an art.

Tuesday 24/08/2021: Central and South America are full of surprises also. Apart from the Spanish other nationalities have added to the culture of the country. We have been through German, French, Dutch and Italian enclaves and towns where Welsh is spoken. Now have just learnt that Cornish miners have also had an influence who were invited to the state of Hildago to mine silver in the mountainous region. The first ships carrying steam-powered machinery and 15 Cornish miners arrived at the port of Veracruz in 1824, but the machinery was so heavy and roads so bad that it took almost two years to get to the high mountains of Hidalgo. The miners felt at home in the area's cold and damp climate, and by 1827, there were 3,500 Cornish miners and family members situated there. The area became extremely important as a mining centre for the rest of the century, and a target during the Mexican Revolution. The Mexicans sold the mines to an American company and mining continued till 1965, when the mines became non- viable.

So why mention Cornish miners? For two reasons. The most important cultural contribution of Cornish miners to Mexico is the introduction of football. They began playing it soon after their arrival in Pachuca, with formal teams established by the end of the 1830s and the city's first professional club in 1901. Today, Mexico is one of the most soccer-addicted countries in the world. Lesser-known is a culinary contribution: the 'pasta' It is the Mexican take on the Cornish pasty, the food miners consumed deep underground for their midday meal. The crust of these hand pies has not changed much, but the cooks in Pachuca and Real del Monte have taken quite a few liberties with the fillings. Savoury ones vary, almost always with chilli pepper of some kind, and there are even sweet fillings. Their popularity has grown regionally outside of Hidalgo, especially in intercity bus stations in central Mexico because they are cheap and easy to take along for the ride.

Thursday 25/08/2021: BIRD ATTACK!

My father has just sent me an email to say he was attacked by a sea gull whilst running along the coast in Kent, near Dover, UK. The bird swooped down and tried to snatch a lock of hair. These birds are big and so rather scary. Hitchcock's 'The Birds'. I have learnt that some tiny birds take bold risks to gather hair for their nests. Titmice have been spotted dive-bombing cats, alighting on dozing predators' backs and plucking strands of hair from people's heads. Now, there's a term for the unusual behaviour: kleptotrichy. This term is derived from the Greek words for "to steal" and "hair," Kleptotrichy has rarely been described by scientists, but dozens of YouTube videos capture the behaviour, and one chickadee has been caught on video tugging hair from dogs, cats, humans, raccoons and even a porcupine.

In South and Central America, palm swifts snatch feathers from flying pigeons and parrots If it's not covid or hornets next it's a marauding attack from above !! Large birds can kill!! Watch the video by clicking th elink below, rather long and gets boring, but shows the persistence of the attackers. Don't bother to watch all but search-out other you tube videos...

Birds Attack People and Funny Reaction! >

Saturday 28/08/2021: Have not been attacked by birds but have made a new friend. He looks rather bedraggled as he has just had a bath after wandering through muddy water in search of sustenance. He has put on his best suit and has posed for a photo. He likes selfies. Sometimes gets very moody but generally a happy and welcoming fellow. Likes to stand and stare at you much as to say, "I was born like this. My mother loves me so no comment, please."

Monday 30/08/2021: Last day of isolation has past so ventured out for first time in 14 days. Needed to get supplies and purchased vegies and fruit from a street vendor, slightly more exotic than in Ashford, UK. Also fresher and more varied. Hope all well where ever you are so fried snails and geraniums from Cathy and Spencer.

COVID SETBACK SENDS US BACK

Sunday 15/08/2021: As I have reported on social media sites once more another disaster. We were on our way to Monte Alban and steadily gaining altitude when I had difficulty breathing. Having suffered from similar problems in the Andes did not consider it a major problem but became increasingly difficult to breathe so decided to trace our ride back to lower levels. This did not alleviate the problem and in fact I felt decidedly unwell. Fortunately found a hospital and was diagnosed with Covid-19!!! This necessitated treatment and terminated our intended journey to the Tarahumara barefoot runners and further into the mountains.

As promised I now include a further episode on the manic actions of my stand in camera man at the Dakar Rally from my book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker.' We had made it to the check point of a stage of the rally and the Argentinians had pulled out all the stops. If you have ever been to an English country Fair, multiply the stalls by one thousand, add five thousand screaming Argentinians and Bolivians, a sprinkling of Germans, Dutch and the unhinged. Add smoke billowing asados; an Argentinian barbecue of ludicrous proportions - picture three cows upside down. Next to each other, cooking. Not for Vegetarian Dakar fans this one. Add thousands of litres of Quilmes beer, zillions of litres of Mendoza Red wine from the nearby hills, international flags fluttering in the breeze and the smell of fuel in the air and there you have it... not an English Country Fair at all.

The whole scene was divided in two by the river and road crossing it. On one side of the river were the 5000 fans partying like there was a pandemic coming soon, as well as some high-powered vehicles, and on the other side was a cordoned off section with Winnebago's and four by four trucks with tents and tarpaulins and barbecues. Important people were running around with radio mikes and high-speed important walks. I was so excited. We found or spot with a view of a sweeping bend on the approach to the bridge and water crossing. I had the stills camera and I showed Slavic how to use the handheld Panasonic HD camera and taught him the basics of how to do a piece to camera and how to film the riders, preferably not pointing the camera into the sun and never zoom etc. It was Neanderthal-basic instructions, but it was better than having no camera man at all. Slavic seemed to concentrate and take it all in. But that was before he turned from hippie Robert de Niro into Captain Barbarosa.'

The next log will recount how we both fell foul of the Army, the Police and 5000 spectators and concludes these extracts.

Tuesday 17/08/2021: As stated we were on our way to Monte Alban when the cursed Covid struck so did not get to our intended destination to visit sites attributed to the Mixtec people so just a little on the early inhabitants of the region where we have been for the last 15 months.. The Mixtec were organized in kingdoms or city-states ruled by kings who collected tributes and services from the inhabitants of the area. They were aided by their administrators, who were part of the nobility, during the period (AD 800-1200). Two of the most powerful kingdoms of this period were Tututepec on the coast and Tilantongo in the northern region of Oaxaca. The most famous Mixtec king was Lord Eight Deer "Jaguar Claw," ruler of Tilantongo, whose heroic actions are part fact, part legend. According to Mixtec history, in the 11th century, he brought together the kingdoms of Tilantongo and Tututepec creating a large, unified state. The Mixtec are well known in the anthropological world for their codices, or phonetic pictures in which they wrote their history and genealogies. The Mixtec possessed a high degree of civilization in Aztec and pre-Aztec times. Hopefully we might be able to investigate this area and the archaeological sites in the future.

Thursday 19/08/2021: Just when you thought it safe to venture into the big world, within the limits of self-isolation, an attack on my Covid-ridden body occurred. But more about that after the next entry on 'talking' insects.

It appears that insects are versatile wing conversationalists. Crickets can scrape a leg against a wing or rub two wings together. Some grasshoppers beat their wings like castanets; others crackle and snap the thin membranes. Many butterfly wings play with light, manipulating it to hide in plain sight or reflecting it in flashes along iridescent or multifaceted surfaces Now, the discovery of the fossilized wing of a grasshopper-like insect suggests this 'conversation' skill got started as far back as 310 million years ago. The wing structures resemble those of living insects that use light or sound to communicate A fossil from the ancient insect Theiatitan azari suggests it used its wings to communicate, much like many modern insects. By comparing the arrangement of the structures with modern insect wings, researchers suggest T. azari may have made crackling noises by swiftly snapping together the thin membranes of the wing. It may also have reflected flashes of light along different surfaces in the wing.

The Titanoptera, get the name, a group of giant predatory, large-winged insects that thrived 359 million to 299 million years ago grew to astounding sizes in the oxygen-rich atmosphere. A dragonfly, Meganeura, was roughly the size of a small dog!! Help!!. These huge insects may have had a range of communication tools at their wing tips. Scientists don't yet know whether the ancient insects used those abilities to call to potential mates or warn off predators. But this discovery suggests there's plenty more these ancient wings can tell them.

Dragonflies can hover in one place, fly extremely fast, and even fly backwards. They are some of the fastest flying insects in the world reaching speeds of over 30 miles per hour. Dragonflies come in a variety of colours including blue, green, yellow, and red. They are some of the most colourful insects on the planet.

My cheery grandfather said 'Remember, Spencer, things can always get worse.' Well, they have, thank you. I am getting a bit sick of this insect vendetta. A man, or woman, can only take so much. Three days after getting Covid-19, I had to break quarantine. I am in Hospital. I got nailed by a steroid monster-killer-biting-stinging-head-butting-murder hornet. (Don't quote me on that name) Step aside Fire Ants and Bullet Ants, this was another scale. My arms swelled up just like two balloons. (Anyone recognise the song) Sadly, I suffer from anaphylactic shock, so have been pumped with ephedrine, cortisone, anti-histamine and now on a cocktail drip for three hours from a secret Mexican recipe, handed down through generations. (Not). Doctor Ronnie Corbett, who comes up to my waist, when he is standing on a box, has been great.

Just on another note I have learnt that my mother had a village in Cambridgeshire named after her so Mum your name lives on. If anyone would like to read her short stories Google 'Mind the Raven', or contact You BY You Books. . Peace, love and Omega 3 fish drips for all, from me and the incredibly hardy, annoyingly healthy, Cathy Nel. Until the next disaster, which I won't post because, quite frankly, all the stories are becoming a bit far-fetched.

P.S. Please look at the Photo Archive to see the most beautiful, exotic, colourful Brazilian tarantula. Where else could it come from?

ON THE ROAD

Wednesday 04/08/2021: We have made it to the mountains north west of Escondido to get away from the coast. We passed through San Jose del Pacifico in LA Pluma area and in thick forest with a myriad of birds and insects .outside our room. About two kilometres from here a week ago a jaguar was shot that was attacking goats. Shame. Actually Oaxaca is home to five of Mexico's six wild cat species: jaguars, cougars, ocelots, lynxes and jaguarundi that inhabit the mountainous state. A local tracker took a rather poor photo of the dead animal.

Thursday 05/08/2021: The town nearby, San Jose Del Pacifico, as mentioned is where magic mushrooms can be consumed 'legally'. There are no police so the locals make the laws and rules, the village is located in the mountains surrounded by lush forests. It attracts backpackers to take magic mushrooms or 'hongos' in Spanish and experience a 'trip' in the vibrant surroundings! Magic mushrooms are also known as shrooms, mushies, blue meanies, golden tops, liberty caps, philosopher's stones, liberties, amani, and agaric. They can cause nausea, yawning, feeling relaxed or drowsy, introspection, nervousness, paranoia, panic, hallucinations, and psychosis. Beware falling into the 'drug' trap and also fake potions. You will be ill. The photo is by Alan Rockefeller.

Friday 06/08/2021: Continued on the bike heading to Yagul, an archaeological site and former city-state associated with the Zapotec civilization of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica. Caught a glimpse of a tarantula, Oh No! tarantulas again. This one was devouring a snake but tarantulaed away before I could film it. Later discovered that at least eleven different families of spiders feed on snakes from seven species, including coral snakes, rattlers, palm-pit vipers and lanceheads. Not all snake-eating spiders trap snakes with webs. Tarantulas actively hunt their prey, then use powerful jaws to deliver a potent venom The spider catches the snake by the head and will hold on in spite of all efforts of the snake to escape. Once the venom takes effect, the snake calms down and then either dies quickly or over a lengthy period. Enzymes then decompose the snake into soft tissue and the tarantula sucks the fluid for a mushy meal. Some South American tarantulas eat snakes and frogs almost exclusively. The Goliath bird eater tarantula, the world's largest spider, that inhabits South America, feeds on a highly venomous common lancehead snake. Don't want one of those in my shorts.

Sunday 08/08/2021: Made it to Yagul on our way north. The site is also known locally as Pueblo Viejo, Old Village, and was occupied at the time of the Spanish Conquest. It was first occupied around 500-100 BC but most of the visible remains date from 1250-1521 AD, when the site functioned as the capital of a city-state. Yagul is an offshoot of Monte Alban which was abandoned in about 800 AD. Signs of human habitation in the area can be seen on cliff paintings at Caballito Blanco, which date to at least 3000 BC. The people in the region are Mixtecs a modern indigenous group with a rich ancient history. In pre-Hispanic times, they lived in the western region of the state of Oaxaca and part of the states of Puebla and Guerrero and they were one of the most important groups of Mesoamerica. During the Postclassic period (AD 800-1521), they were famous for their mastery of artworks such as metalworking, as in the picture, jewellery, and decorated vessels. I hope to be able to provide more information on Monte Alban in the next log.

Tuesday 10/08/2021: On our recent journey into the mountains of Oaxaca we had to traverse some rocky and fairly dangerous tracks. There was the threat of being attacked by animals known to inhabit the area so we prepared ourselves with protective weapons. Cathy was ready with deadly gladiatorial fighting armoury and suitable battle cry. I kept the bike running!

Wednesday 11/08/2021: Actually the reality of being attacked by wild animals whilst camping in the area hit home today as a cougar attacked and killed 12-year-old boy in the area two days ago. The community organized a hunt for the animal. The boy from Chapulapa, Gabriel Trovamala, went out into the fields to check crops and was attacked. Trovamala, a member of the Mazateca indigenous community, died of internal bleeding. Local residents said there have been attacks against livestock and one adult, who was unharmed. They attribute all the attacks to the same animal but they have been asked not to demonize the large cats The Mazateca community has organized the placement of traps and plans to hunt the animal down, hoping to prevent another attack. Oaxaca is home to five of Mexico's six wild cat species as previously stated in this log. They are now protected by law but were hunted and killed in previous years as in the picture from 1910 We will be vigilant!

Friday 13/08/2021: Continuing on our quest after some pretty torrential rain and had to negotiate some flooded roads. Believe it or not came across a large lollipop sign and had to stop to learn more. In the midst of dense vegetation and miles from human habitation discovered that it was a 'wi-fi' 'outpost!! Not to be missed.

Anyway, onwards and upwards, literally as climbing altitude in mountains 2500 mtrs into the beyond heading to Monte Alban. Beginning to feel the altitude as breathing more difficult. Not so good at altitude as previously experienced in the Andes.

Saturday 14/08/2021: Plans to continue to the archaeological sites may have to be put on hold as I am not feeling too good. Also want to meet up with the Tarahumara barefoot runners who I mentioned in a previous log. They can run for hours without rest running over rocky trails at high altitude. Amazing endurance athletes. If you want to learn more about the Tarahumara follow this link >

Have found a 'Motel' for the night so until the next log jelly beans in tomato soup, Cathy and Spencer.

WHAT NEXT?

Friday 23/07/2021: We are hoping to move on asap but the U.S. government has extended the closure of land borders with Mexico to nonessential travel such as tourism through to the end of August. Apparently the US officials are in constant contact with Mexican counterparts to identify the conditions under which restrictions may be eased safely and sustainably. There is increasing concern among U.S. officials about the Delta variant as there is reported to be a sizeable increases in Covid-19 cases and deaths, with outbreaks occurring in parts of the country with low vaccination rates. This does not bode well for us. We need to be on the road!!

Sunday 25/07/2021: Mexico City has recently commemorated the 696th anniversary of the founding of the capital with music and joyous parades. Around 2,000 dancers, musicians, singers and artists converged on Mexico City's zócalo for the annual celebration of the foundation of Tenochtitlán, the forebear to Mexico City and the capital of the Mexica people, also known as the Aztecs. Since 1975, groups have converged on the zócalo each year on July 26 to celebrate the arrival of the first settlers. The event is an opportunity to mark the cultural unification of Mexicans. A tlalmanalli altar is erected to mark the four natural elements and the ancient deities. September 16 is Independence Day but Mexico recognises that 500 years ago the Spanish arrived which led the country to its multicultural mix.

Near Disaster at the Dakar...

In the last log I was preparing to chase the Dakar Rally but my camera guru was not looking, or feeling, too well but I was not going to miss the opportunity of filming it either. Problem. The beautiful camera woman had been floored by San Juan Revenge and I desperately needed a replacement human. Enter, stage right, Slavic, a Polish fellow who made a fruitcake seem like the sanest of cakes. But what a nice cake he turned out to be, in the end: bear with me.

We had met him briefly outside our room, the previous evening, where he was cleaning the chain and sprockets of his BMW 650 Dakar with a pink toothbrush dipped in petrol. Judging from his stunning white teeth, he evidently had another toothbrush. This morning Slavic was sitting downstairs, in the communal kitchen, examining every single corn in his cornflakes with a grimy spoon. I greeted him, sat opposite and explained my dilemma. Slavic was about sixty-five plus and looked like Robert de Niro, except left in the oven a bit longer and with a more bulbous nose. It must have been his eyes that reminded me of De Niro because you could not really see much of him. He had a huge grey beard, which spread out across his BMW T Shirt, like a sun dial, a similarly massive mop of grey hair, another sun dial, silhouetted against the blue sky. His face was garnished with thick lensed and framed black glasses that seemed to be constantly steamed up and greasy, even when he was riding. Added to this he was bright red so looked like an extra who had just stepped off The Black Pearl and was about to explode. However, Pavel was quick to volunteer as camera man. He had such a great face and beaming smile so I, stupidly agreed. I did not know at that stage that he had more personalities than the village I lived in in Mexico, most of them super nice. Every time he spoke, he squinted for emphasis and his eyes watered and he leant forward to share his words of wisdom and his rather aromatic garlic breath. Still, it was excellent of him to offer help, so I rushed upstairs, mopped the food poisoning victim's brow and whispered suitable kind words and we were off. To be continued next log.

Monday 26/07/2021: Earliest Shark Attack… Back on the shark theme! Recent research on a partial skeleton has revealed the world's oldest known shark attack. A man encountered the animal 3,000 years ago off the coast of Japan, probably whilst fishing or shellfish diving. The victim's body, minus it's sheared off right leg and left hand must have been retrieved for burial by the local community. New analysis has unveiled the grisly scenario. The individual from Japan's ancient J?mon culture was formerly in a grave in the area. Radiocarbon dating now places his death from 3,391 to 3,031 years ago researchers from Oxford University report. Previously a 1,000-year-old skeleton of a fisherman on Puerto Rico displayed the earliest signs of a shark encounter.

Gruesome remains revealed at least 790 gouges, punctures and other types of bite damage mainly confined to the Jomon man's arms, legs, pelvis and ribs. These injuries indicate that the victim first lost his left hand trying to fend off a shark. After the man's body was recovered, his mutilated left leg was detached and placed on his chest when he was buried. Who knows if skeletons might 'arise' from the depths of the seas around Mexico. I will keep a look out for remains.

Wednesday 28/07/2021: I have recently been informed that every year rain rituals are conducted in many pueblos located in the Valley of México during the month of May. Many of them are in the Sierra Nevada mountain range near the Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl volcanoes.. Rain rituals keep communities close to their heritage and in tune with nature. The annual event is led by shamans considered the descendants of Aztec priests. The shamans that conduct them are called graniceros and are considered descendants from the line of priests of Tlaloc, the Aztec god of rain and are said to be able to drive away hail [granizo], which can destroy crops. They use prayers and sacred formulas and certain elements that they can use to detour clouds. These ceremonies and rituals have changed very little over many years but some Catholic rituals have also been introduced. Among the beliefs is that Christ is the sun, and the mountain is the Virgin. A large cross is decorated with white flowers which represent the clouds that bring rain. Offerings, such as fruits, vegetables, breads, tequila and beer are then placed around the base of the cross. The people in the area believe that all nature has spirits, including the mountains, the caves, and the volcanoes. Water is thrown into the air, mimicking rainfall. The graniceros and participants firmly believe the ritual brings rain and if it is not performed drought will strike the valleys. Such rituals preserve traditions and keep the community together..

Sunday 01/08/2021: Another month and managed to get on the road for the first time in months so hope for the best in the coming weeks. Rode out of Escondido into the interior and found a hut to stay in overnight. Surrounded by thick forest and tropical vegetation. Good to be in such beautiful surroundings in the jungle in the mountains with giant blue butterflies, parrots, loads of snakes, spiders, monkeys, parakeets. Doing a 2000 km round trip to write two articles.. Abundant vibrant and colourful flowers. Super good.

Monday 02/08/2021: Not so good as have been terrorised by spiders and have been zapped by one. Bite not nice and has caused swelling to ankle and leg. Had to use my epipen which helped to keep reaction down but not totally effective as the use by date was passed. Cannot ride at the moment so enforced stay in 'dangerous' habitat. The gods are against us. Need to visit a shaman for 'muti' African Medicine!!

To end this entry and still on 'animal' theme and for those into dinosaurs there were once Pterosaurs, a diverse group of ancient flying reptiles, that lived alongside dinosaurs from the Triassic to the Cretaceous periods, 228 million to 66 million years ago. The group includes Quetzalcoatlus northropi, the largest creature known to take wing, and Kunpengopterus antipollicatus (aka "Monkeydactyl") which had thumbs that enabled it to climb trees.

Scientists know relatively little about the early life history of pterosaurs, including whether their young could actively flap their wings or only glide - which might mean they stayed under parental care until they were flight-ready. But recent revelations increasingly point toward early independence, or "precociality," for the reptiles, such as finding flight membranes on the wings of an embryonic pterosaur, and the discovery of a tiny Pteranodon juvenile that was capable of long-distance flying before it had grown to adult size. I swear that I saw one yesterday flying above the jungle canopy here. Also noises in the night suggest that TREX is not far away!! Maybe the spider bite is causing hallucinations. Anyway snake stew and bananas is on the menu for tonight. If TREX appears I will emulate Karsten Warholm and break the world record for tree hurdling. Cathy will probably face it with a BBQ fork.

P.S. Check Photo Archive for more pics...

VARIOUS THINGS INTERESTING I HOPE

Monday 12/07/2021: We have been warned about the dangers of swimming or surfing at the moment as the seas are being whipped up by strong winds. Turbulent waves and strong currents on the Pacific coast can be dangerous to swimmers: so far this year at least eight people have died in Oaxaca alone. According to state authorities, the majority of accidents occurred after the victims ignored red flags on the beaches, and makeshift signs which indicate that it is unsafe to swim. Unfortunately one surfer died here in Escondido two days ago after being hurled from his board and drowning in huge waves.

Wednesday 10/07/2021: As promised another excerpt from my next book leading to a dramatic episode to be recorded in a further log. This is a continuation from the previous week.

There was also a rat in the room who decided that one corner was his hangout. I thought that rats were supposed to constantly run around- surely the word scurrying was coined especially for rats. So, it was rather disconcerting when he just sat in the corner, staring us down. It rather freaked me out. I solved the problem by imagining him with red, square sunglasses on and I named him Yasser Ara-rat. I did not really mind him after that. This was a psychological technique that Cathy taught me. She told our children that if they were ever scared of an animal, they should give it a cute name. Five five-year-old, Feaya, had a run in (luckily, not a full mugging) with a spider and a pre-existing fear of hairy Arachnids, courtesy of her uncle and grandmother, who both made Bolt look slow if a spider appeared. However, as soon as she named spiders, Charlottes, after that, she was fine. We woke up suitably unrested, sweating like miners and nauseous. We had food poisoning and Cathy had come off worse. I was not remotely surprised as the previous evening we had bought some dodgy street food that was about three hundred years old. The meat was green, but the hue was hidden well in the dark. Luckily for me, Cathy had been hungrier, and my eyesight better. There was no way she was doing anything but horizontal today. The problem was that this was not just any day. The world-famous Dakar Rally was coming through. I had secured a wonderful position with the world's press and camera people, in the Exclusive Press Area, on a towering, rocky outcrop with a flat high plateau above a spectacular river crossing.

Friday 16/07/2021: In the twelve years I have been travelling I have been in many inhospitable locations and in some where mosquitos have taken a liking to me. Tablets and ointments have failed to prevent me from getting malaria and suffering debilitating sickness. Recent research and trials of drugs may help to prevent malaria striking in the future.

Currently there is only one malaria vaccine, called RTS,S, in use in Africa that provides partial protection in young children. Rather than live parasites, the shot uses a key malaria protein that helps the parasite infect liver cells to train the body to recognize the pathogen. Another malaria vaccine candidate called R21 was designed to improve protection by helping the body better home in on attacking that same malaria protein.

Still, the world is in desperate need of good malaria vaccines. Taking anti-malaria drugs is a crucial part of the vaccination process. In clinical trials a low-dose vaccine followed up with chloroquine protected four out of five participants when they were exposed to the parasite A high-dose shot protected against another malaria parasite strain from Brazil, protecting people who took chloroquine or pyrimethamine Research indicates that taking a mix of vaccines and standard medicines provides good protection. Hope fully if I am able to get the shots I will not suffer so seriously in future.

Saturday 18/07/2021: To something more attractive than mosquito bites, to most anyway. Beauty pageants are popular spectacles in Mexico. Three Miss Worlds have been from Mexico and the country is home to most recently, Andrea Meza from Chihuahua, who wore a costume based on the artisanal alebrije tradition, which is closely associated with Oaxaca. The southern state has been a focal point for feminist politics in recent years. In the 2018 election the state Congress became majority female for the first time in its history; the following year the state became only the second in the country to decriminalize abortion before 12 weeks' pregnancy for any reason; the first was Mexico City. Some other states allow abortion in cases of rape or to protect the life of the mother. Globally, beauty competitions are experiencing something of a political revolution, according to the newspaper El País. "At the last Miss World, held in 2019, history was made when the first black woman took the crown, a year earlier, Ángela Ponce, a Spanish transsexual. won the contest in Spain. Swe Zin Htet, the representative of Myanmar in the Miss Universe competition, was the first competitor to openly declare herself homosexual." This reflects the change in attitude and criteria for beauty contests. Here in Mexico the use of public funds has been declared illegal for promoting beauty pageants but they are not banned and in fact are very popular. Mexicans of both sexes admire beauty. Opponents point out that beauty contests objectify women as sexual icons and that there should be emphasis on other aspects of the part women play in society. They say that they promote the wrong image and violence against women. Whatever your opinion the beautiful costume that Andrea Meza wore is to be admired.The costume's crown displays the horned head of a dragon-like mythical creature, and bears wings to take one to the upper world of the gods.

Tuesday 20/07/2021: Now to an 'EVENT!' that recently happened which I report with credit to Mexico News.

Dozens of people from Mexico and abroad travelled to a small coastal town in Sonora earlier this month to celebrate the new year for the indigenous Seri culture and learn about and take a very unique "medicine" – psychoactive toxins emitted by the Colorado River toad. Held in Punta Chueca, a Seri town on the Gulf of California, the event attracted citizens from the United States, Europe and several Mexican states. The key attraction was the opportunity to try 5-MeO-DMT, a psychedelic of the tryptamine class found in the glands of the toad, also known as the Sonoran Desert toad or bufo alvarius.

The substance is considered an ancestral medicine with the capacity to treat a range of physical, emotional and spiritual ailments. It is commonly dried, mixed with tobacco and smoked to trigger "a powerful religious-like trip that lasts about an hour," according to a shaman known as El Profeta del Sapo (the prophet of the toad) who said that the "venom" is extracted from toads without harming them and is therefore a sustainable substance. for treatment. "It's an anti-hallucinogen that will remove the madness from your mind, everything that removes you from the here and now, everything that is not real," he said. "The bufo alvarius lives buried beneath the ground 10 months a year and in the rainy season it comes to the surface to reproduce, eat and share this ancestral medicine with us," Rettig said. Another proponent of toad-extracted 5-MeO-DMT is former heavyweight boxing champion Mike Tyson, who has travelled to Sonora to smoke the substance and is apparently a regular user. He has said that using the psychoactive drug enabled him to give up alcohol and other drugs and even motivated him to make a boxing comeback. In early July, foreign tourists mingled with Mexican artists and even politicians on Seri, or Com Cáac land, in Punta Chueca. The common denominator was interest in 5-MeO-DMT. I wonder if Fossil Man appeared to them?

To end this week was out and about on the bike and felt as if I was being tracked, not for Covid reasons, but something more imposing. Looked back to see in a 5-MeO-DMT haze a strange colourful creature giving me the 'thumbs up', if it had any thumbs. Toad in the Hole with coconut milk seems apt to say 'Adios.' Cathy and Spencer

QUO VADIS

Tuesday 29/06/2021: This week I include some info on research by scientists in different geographical localities the first of which is relevant to the current world situation.

In these days of Covid-19 we can look back on other pandemics that have caused thousands of deaths. Recently scientists have discovered the oldest known strain of the plague ,Yersinia pestis. It has been found in the bones and teeth of a man buried thousands of years ago in what is now Latvia. Genetic analysis suggests the Y pestis strain that infected the man emerged around 7,100 years ago. Bacterial DNA also reveals that the ancient plague victim didn't develop pustules or infect his family, and the strain lacked the gene for swift flea-to-human transmission, which evolved perhaps 3,800 years ago and caused later bubonic plague epidemics. It's likely this early plague strain passed to humans through isolated encounters, such as from rodent bites. The man was carefully buried, and the team of German scientists didn't find mass graves or Y. pestis infection in other individuals. Although this Y. pestis is the oldest strain ever found, it ultimately went extinct, being replaced by other, more virulent versions which killed thousands across Europe in several outbreaks.

This is common in the evolutionary history of both bacteria and viruses. Later Y. pestis strains may have been more contagious, but isolated encounters like this one may help scientists understand the plague's early history. "Maybe it's really single events in the beginning, then more and more severe, before it became really dramatic in medieval times," the lead scientist Krause-Kyora believes. As we know Covid 19 mutates and new strains appear to threaten life. In the UK the vaccination campaign is combatting the most serious effects and fewer people are dying of the disease. It is estimated that 25 million died in Europe between 1347 and 1351 from The Plague at a time when the population was a fraction that it is today.

Thursday 01/07/2021: After the Plague to a problem created by humans, not fleas! Scientists have been investigating the effects of sound on wild life and how it impacts bird and bat foraging. The results suggest that, in addition to human-made noises, natural noises shape ecosystems and how the sounds of nature influence where animals live and how they forage. Research suggests that human noise negatively affects animals from communication to foraging to reproduction, and even survival. For example, the sounds of highway traffic can drive migrating birds away from their regular habitat. This alters our eco-systems and endangers all wildlife species. It is noticeable in Mexico that birds where we live are more numerous when there is less sound, even where there is human habitation but where there is an absence of loud music blaring out. Of course those areas also have more natural vegetation that encourages wild life. During the Covid pandemic where there has been a reduction in traffic and noise created by people birds and other wildlife have commandeered new spaces closer to humans Birdsong can be listened to in peace and quiet.

Sunday /04/07/2021: Now to things more personal. As I have now been on the road for several years I have experienced some very strange, amusing, exciting and life threatening events. I am at present attempting to finish my next book which is set in South America. When you travel through this continent you realise that it is an incredibly vibrant place with a diversity of cultures to match, and even surpass, any other world continent. I have been with my Tenere for 12 years and it has had several refurbs but is still a super bike and going strong. It has featured at several shows, been photographed and also the subject of artistic studies. I attached one by Leonard Debonoid II.

Of course on our 'budget holiday' we have found it necessary to find the best in up-market accommodation. We were on our way to the Dakar rally and had be-friended an off-the-wall Polish guy who nearly got us thrown into prison. But enough of that! The extract below is just to prove that we frequently bedded down in some Ritz, or should I say Blitz, like accommodation.

It is difficult to imagine life getting anymore strange than standing in the middle of a South American desert with five thousand people cheering, while our last-minute-recruited, Polish camera-man, sprinted across a sand dune, naked, followed by half of the Argentinian Police Force. Cathy and I were styling it up, as usual, in a top-quality hotel, 'hotel' being a ridiculous compliment to this establishment. We were in the city of San Juan, a modern city with wide, tree lined avenues irrigated by canals, from which it derives its nickname, Oasis Town. The city is in a fertile valley surrounded by rocky, mountainous desert. It was such a smart city that it was quite a struggle for me to find a place so bad, but when costs need, it can be done. Our room was a small outhouse on the roof of a Hotel El Dodgy, which I presume used to be a storage or laundry room. I provide a photo of a room to give you some idea of our up-market status. Actually a tad better than ours.

The only other use for the roof area was for the washing line, where the decidedly, World War Two-like sheets and blankets were hung. For some unknown reason there were also twelve truck tyres, five shop mannequins, with various limbs missing and a cardboard cut-out of Queen Victoria. It was waterlogged and lay on the concrete floor, as though Her Majesty had been assassinated on this roof. Our humble abode had free bedbugs galore, cockroaches, wet blankets (common, and my one nightmare), no toilet, no running water, and an inebriated, rusted fan hanging dangerously from the ceiling. It was close to thirty-five degrees, despite the altitude, so evidently, we slept well.

If you want to follow the saga of the Dakar Destroyer, almost, it will be continued in the next log. Actually discussed this with Princess Anne who said, ''We are amused!''

Thursday 08/07/2021: Finally for this log an amazing mural appeared in two days on a derelict castle like building in Escondido. This artist deserves the utmost praise for his superb portrait and skills. Could not believe that I walked past the building with bare blank walls and 48 hours later this magnificent portrait was staring at me across the street. I will try to learn who did it so I can give him the praise he deserves.

Good news! Back on the bike after extensive repairs and have taken a 100k trip to Colotepec, to visit a sixteenth-century ruined church, which is being restored by five workers. We had a chat and their estimate is that it will take three years to complete by hard manual labour. Next to the ruin is a modern church and nearby some archaeological stones marking the ancient history of the different ethnic groups that still exist in the region. Worth a visit and to test the bike on some off road riding. All good.

Tomato sauce and porridge for strength for the road ahead. More pics on the Archive. Cathy and Spencer.




MORE MEXICO

Monday 21/06/2021: Have been checking out a tradition that is centuries-old here in Mexico known as Exvotos, that is folk-art that began as a religious nature and used to petition or thank God. Narrative votive paintings can be found by the thousands in many locations in Mexico although certain shrines and sanctuaries such as that of the Virgin of Guadalupe and in Chalma attract a very large number of them. Due to their proliferation, especially in the 18th and 19th century, many older votive paintings have left the places they were deposited and are found in public and private collections. The collecting of these was begun by Diego Rivera, whose work, along with those of a number of other painters past and present, has been influenced by them. Frida Kahlo's collection of ex votos is on public display in her family home, which she later shared with Rivera, her husband. An exvoto is a votive painting, which first appeared in the 16th century and became very popular in the 19th. Painted on a piece of metal or wood about 60 by 30 ctms., they gave thanks for, or in some cases, made requests, for divine help in solving a problem. Some were for saving people from harm. As the custom developed many highlighted important historical events, legends, folk dances, customs, and indigenous traditions. Some address serious social issues, such as unemployment, emigration, prostitution, gay rights and women. The tradition is still alive and centres on holy places. They appear in the churches in Escondido and recently depict scenes related to the Covid 19 pandemic. See Photo Archive for some more interesting Exvotos.

Wednesday 23/06/2021: Last LOG had some info on local crocodiles so to continue a maritime theme have been investigating sharks which are found north of where we stay. Apparently about 19 million years ago, sharks suffered a near wipe out. Fossils found in the Pacific Ocean reveal a previously unknown and dramatic shark extinction event, during which populations of the predators abruptly dropped by up to 90 percent. Marine scientists are unsure as to the cause of the decimation of these key components of modern ecosystems. The extinction led to a reduction in shark diversity by more than 70% and an almost complete loss in total abundance. Modern shark forms began to diversify within 2 to 5 million years after the extinction, but they represent only a minor proportion of the number of what sharks once were. Sharks have existed for 400 million years. Now, clues found in the fine red clay sediments beneath two vast regions of Pacific reveal that the ratio of sharks to fish had a dramatic change about 66 million year ago when at least 70 % of sharks disappeared. It seems that this occurred within a short time span of 100,000 years. Fish take over the territory where once sharks reigned supreme. Today there remains only a small percentage of the huge number that once inhabited the oceans. It is also a fact that sharks are being hunted today and may become extinct. A great pity as they are magnificent creatures.

Friday 25/06/2021: Have just had to move accommodation as previous became too expensive so now in a small 'apartment' surrounded by vegetation but with a view to the sea. It is fine but also inhabited by tarantula troops that come marching in at dusk. Disconcerting. The up-side is that we have larger wild life such as raccoons and the Kudamundi which live in regions of Central America and Brazil, and they're also an important part of wildlife in Mexico. Since it inhabits so many cultures, the coati has several names derived from languages like Portuguese, Guarani, Spanish and even Mayan: They are attractive and friendly. Babies have just appeared and are inquisitive little beings. We also have a variety of birds twittering away and not too peaceful in the morning so if you want to sleep late No chance. No worries as I am up very early. Best part of the day.

Saturday 26/06/2021: I was supposed to be headlining the Adventure Bike Rider festival in the UK but could not make it as stuck in Mexico but would like to share with you a 'happening'. The new Harley Davidson Adventure bike was on show but had a slight mishap as a demonstration of the bike sent up clouds of smoke in the arena. Not good for promoting the Harley. The video has been seen 258,000 times and shared by 2700. Actually it was only a loose hose that caused the problem and otherwise all good. Will point this out on social media sites as I am sure the bike must be top pedigree. You can witness yourself by following my < FACEBOOK PAGE >

Always like to record something relevant to Mexico in these Logs so a little on languages used in the country. 110 million speak Spanish but indigenous languages also have speakers. Namely Nahuatl (Nahuatl, Nahuat, Nahual, Macehualtlahtol, Melatahtol), 1,376,026, Yucatec Maya (Maaya t'aan) 759,000, Mixtec (Tu'un sávi) 423,216, and Zapotec (Diidxaza) 410,901.

There is a difference in pronunciation between Mexican Spanish and that used in Spain specifically in z and c before an i or e. This sounds like s in Mexico, but "th"in Spain, for example, Barcelona. Additionally, Spanish from Spain tends to be more guttural, due to its Arabic influences, whereas Mexican Spanish is softer. The local languages were superseded in many regions by the introduction of European culture after the Conquest. This affected indigenous culture and influenced the traditions of local people. Music, dress and art changed and regional languages were threatened with extinction. Of course this has happened elsewhere in the world where the colonial language became the means of communication of the country. In a move to protect the local languages some musicians sing wholly or in part in the language of their communities. This is a planned attempt to protect indigenous languages and is vital since of the 63 indigenous languages, and 350 dialects, recognized by the Mexican government, most are in danger of disappearing. One pre conquest language has only two speakers used by old men.

Many young people do not use their indigenous languages outside of their families because of discrimination or because they do not see it as relevant to the modern world. This was also the situation in Swaziland when I lived there. Parents who had not the benefit of schooling found that their children preferred to use English for communication rather than Siswati. In Mexico some musicians are singing in indigenous languages striving to keep such languages alive. In addition, the lyrics they write talk about their communities' cultures as well as socio-political issues. The latter is particularly true for those who perform rap and hip-hop. Indigenous women are also defending their culture and fighting against machismo to the rhythm of rap. It seems that they are having some success as their music appeals to the younger generation of Mexicans who sing along with the musicians. It is becoming quite dynamic.

Open this < YOUTUBE LINK > to see and listen to the video on Mexican music that depicts present and past aspects of the art form reflecting the culture of the country. La Sandunga is both beautiful and dramatic.

Sunday 27/06/2021: Cannot close this entry without including a photo of the latest life style in vogue in a certain part of the world. A country of ingenuity and survival. Guess where! If you want to rest while on the move this is the way to do it. Until next time banana and coconut curry on the menu. Cathy and Spencer


DANGER LURKS

Thursday10/06/2021: I expect by now everybody knows of the crocodile attack near where we stay and as mentioned in the previous log. Of course when you read this it will be stale news but from Escondido this is the facts. The girl who was attacked was swimming in an area known to be a danger zone for its large crocodile population. Melissa Laurie, 28, and twin sister Georgia, from Berkshire, UK, were on a night tour on Manialtepec Lagoon to view the spectacle of bioluminescence in the water. The sisters and 23 other tourists were taken by boat at sunset to Puerto Suelo beach where, contrary to an earlier report, guides told them that there were crocodiles present, as reported in the local news portal Ecos del Pacífico. In party mood, a number of the tourists diverged from the group and walked across the beach to the mouth of the lagoon where they entered the water. According to witnesses, the sisters swam through the river which connects the lagoon to the beach, advancing more than 300 meters against the current. They tired, and chose to swim to shore over a grassy area without noticing that there was a crocodile within. Melissa Laurie was attacked by the reptile and dragged underwater. Her sister fought it off, punching it until it let go.

Guillermo Silva, a local public safety officer, took part in an investigation to reconfigure the events. He attested to the dangers of swimming in the area, and explained his theory as to why the crocodile attacked. "This is not an area for tourism, it's an area that nests crocodiles above all else. It is rainy season and that makes it even easier for crocodiles to nest. Where the accident happened there is a probability of nesting crocodiles, and a female could have been defending her eggs," he said.

Both girls were treated locally in hospital and recovering from their nightmare. Will stay clear of the area in future but we often see crocs on beaches so we are aware of the danger.

Saturday 12/06/2021: Travelling around the world one recognises that history and change is recorded in street names. Swaziland, my homeland, is now called Eswatini and the main street in Mbabane was called Allister Miller after the colonial governor, now Gwamile street, as a place name. If you want to know the history of Mexico take note of the street names The most common street names in Mexico are Miguel Hidalgo, Emiliano Zapata, Benito Juárez and 5 de Mayo.

Miguel Hidalgo is called the "father of the nation" and the "father of independence." Hidalgo was one of several leading fighters against the Spanish. He rallied the people of the village of Dolores, where Hidalgo was the parish priest, on September 15, 1810. to join him in rebellion. This act officially marks the start of Mexico's independence and is recreated every year as part of independence celebrations.

Emiliano Zapata was the leader of the Liberation Army of the South, one of the major factions fighting during the decade-long Mexican Revolution. Zapata's name is the best remembered in Mexico and most recognized internationally. Zapata's ideas about land and agrarian reform found their way into the current 1917 constitution, and his name and image are still invoked in struggles of the rural poor. Many may have watched the movie 'Viva Zapata' starring Marlon Brando which is a rather romanticised film of his exploits.

Benito Juárez may be the closest thing Mexico has to a secular saint. Born 1806 in rural Oaxaca, Juárez was a full-blooded Zapotec who studied law to help his people. The 19th century was a time of constant civil wars and coups d'état and Juárez spent his life fighting either French invaders and conservative factions among his own countrymen.

The date of 5 de Mayo is the anniversary of the Battle of Puebla which took place near Puebla City during the Second French intervention in Mexico. The battle ended in a victory by the Mexican Army over the French Army. It is a day of celebrating Mexican heritage often with large quantities of alcohol and colourful costumes.

Wednesday 16/06/2021: To continue with the historical theme and long before streets existed it appears that people reached the Americas around 30,000 years ago as proven by rabbit bones excavated from a Mexican rock-shelter This is long before originally believed.

Sediment contained chipped and sharp-edged stones regarded as tools and analyses revealed that humans were living in the cave between 13,500 and 9,900 years ago. It is assumed that food and water sources lessened when the Ice Age peaked between 26,000 and 19,000 years ago, causing the earliest settlers to leave and delaying further occupations until conditions improved.

Friday 18/06/2021: I have discovered that there is a reason as to why I often hear different sounds in Escondido all of which have a purpose. One frequently echoes in the town "Ya llegó Gas Express! / ¡Gas Expess ya está aqui!". Gas delivery! Not all regions have gas delivered by pipe so bottled gas is sold by vendors from vans.

Now if you don't want rubbish to accumulate in the streets or in your garden you have to listen for the sound of cow bells that are rung by a man running past your house ringing a cow bell as loudly as possible. This happens twice a week and is a council service. If you miss out private rubbish collectors pass through shouting "Quiere basuraaaaaa" "want rubbish". Walk out of your house and wave them down! You can give them your rubbish bags for a few pesos.

Not so long ago in the UK one used to hear 'Knives to sharpen!' or 'Any old iron!' here in Mexico if you hear a high-pitched whistle it is the same. Take out your knives and for a small fee they will be made razor sharp. Of course like everywhere in South and Central America you will hear voices of street vendors selling a variety of wares. The most prominent often are of those selling food.

Sunday 20/06/21: To complete this log looks as if I will have to keep alcohol out of reach of beer drinking tarantulas Caught this one looking for sustenance. This is Tarantula Bacchanalia a specimen not often seen in day light. Happy to have spotted it. Crocs visiting next.



Stay well cucumbers on toast with mayonnaise. Spencer and Cathy. PS Check photo archive for more pics.

THINGS AMAZING

Wednesday 19/05/2021: HI think everyone knows that I have a habit of having run-ins with things natural so no surprise that I experienced another 'event' that caused lightning fast reactions, and some hilarity for a not too sympathetic person, that has just added to my table of encounters. OK. Nothing ever, ever attacks me in a normal manner or in a normal place. It's finally happened and it had to be at close quarters. This guy was in my shorts.

A beast that was hanging in the shower room and it bit me on my one and only beautiful, petal smelling bum. I ripped my shorts to pieces but didn't injure him and released him onto a leaf outside. Cathy Nel was in hysterics. Not painful. 50 to 200 children they have, so expecting more visitors. Can anyone ID this Tarantula bum biter? Told it was Davus Pentaloris, Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula.

Saturday 21/05/2021: After my recent 'save the spider' incident I came across some information that might prevent further encounters. Apparently some spiders avoid building their webs in chambers that recently housed fire ants. Researchers say the ants probably left behind chemical traces that could signal danger to the arachnids because ants sometimes feast on spiders. The reaction hints that the insects might be a source of natural spider-repelling chemicals. Andreas Fischer, an arachnologist at Simon Fraser University in Burnaby, Canada says the finding is exciting. A research team plans to pinpoint what chemical spooks the spiders to use as a deterrent. "I really hope that people don't get fire ants as they are aggressive, horrendous pests with incredibly painful stinging bites'' says Andreas.Those native to South America are among the most invasive species in the world. As you may recollect I was attacked by fire-ants and I can say the bite is excruciating. Better to have tarantulas!

Tuesday 25/05/2021: On to another piece of information that you can't live without. The phenomenon of tattooing was once widespread. In 'The Descent of Man' (1871) Charles Darwin wrote that there was no country in the world that did not practice tattooing or some other form of permanent body decoration. This example is from New Zealand.

For those interested in little known facts I let you in to a secret about those who have a penchant for tattoos. You have something in common with your ancient ancestors. Recent microscopic studies of two turkey leg bones with sharpened ends indicate that Native Americans used them to make tattoos between around 5,520 and 3,620 years ago. These pigment-stained bones are the world's oldest known tattooing tools, Ötzi the Iceman, who lived around 5,250 years ago in Europe, displays the oldest known tattoos but researchers haven't found any of the tools used to make the Iceman's tattoos.

The turkey bones and other elements are part of a probable tattoo kit found in a burial pit in Tennessee. Damage on the tips of the two turkey leg bones resembles distinctive wear previously observed on experimental tattooing tools made from deer bones. Pigment-stained seashells in the grave may have held solutions into which tattooists dipped those tools. Here in Mexico tattooists make their craft an art.

Monday31/05/2021: Having covered more than 165.000 Ks on a bike I have seen some unusual ways to maximise their use. In México I recorded five people riding on a scooter, and later learned that it is called a "moto-sardine'' which is not uncommon throughout Mexico. The riders attempted to hide their identities as it is illegal to carry more than the number of passengers for which the vehicle is designed. It is also against the law to carry cargo or passengers in such a way that it obstructs the view of the driver or the balance of the vehicle, as was clearly the case. I did not report them!

Tuesday 01/06/2021: Another month and my brain is losing track of time and place and whilst searching for a solution to becoming brain addled have just read that playing brain training games regularly doesn't boost brainpower. (Actually don't indulge in such a pastime) Scientific research has shown that even among dedicated players, games don't boost brainpower. It has been claimed that by playing online problem-solving, matching and other games , people can improve mental abilities such as reasoning, verbal skills and memory. When researchers analysed results, they found that brain trainers had no mental edge over others in memory, verbal skills and reasoning. Even among the most dedicated, who had used training programs for at least 18 months, brain training didn't boost thinking abilities above the level of people who didn't use the programs.

That's not because brain trainers have poorer function to start with and then improved. Participants who had trained for less than a month, and presumably wouldn't have reaped significant benefits from the programs, performed on par with people who didn't train at all. Researchers did not find any evidence that brain training was associated with cognitive abilities That held true for participants by age, program used, education or socioeconomic status – all were cognitively similar to those who didn't use the programs. One researcher said that real world experiences may be the best brain trainer. While it's possible to improve mental abilities, practicing those skills in different real-life situations, is a much better use of one's time than sitting at a computer and doing little tasks.

So will live in the real world to keep my brain active!

Many of you know that we attract dogs of all shapes, sizes and breeds. I had a Border Colie who was the smartest dog ever. Knew exactly what I was thinking and mirrored my moods daily. So I could not resist leaving this LOG without providing you with a realistic picture of man in contemplation with his loyal and sympathetic friend. Actually another example of wall art. Really.

STOP PRESS...

Thursday 06/06/2021: Just learnt of a frightening and life threatening experience not far from where we stay in Puerto Escondido. An English girl, Melissa Laurie, 28, and her twin sister Georgia were on a night tour to view the bioluminescence at Manialtepec Lagoon when they went into the water for a swim But Melissa Laurie was snatched by a crocodile and dragged beneath the surface. After searching frantically for several minutes, Georgia found her sister floating face down in the water. But as she cradled her sister in her arms and began to swim back to the boat, the crocodile attacked again. Georgia fought it off, punching the reptile until it let go. Both are in hospital with Melissa in a critical condition. Her sister suffered bite wounds to several parts of her body. Will be avoiding that lagoon in future.

Fried tarantulas on toast and stay away from shark infested waters. Cathy and Spencer. P.S... go to the PHOTO ARCHIVE for more incredible photos.

MAKING PLANS

Wednesday 07/05/2021: Hoping to make some plans to move from Escondido in the near future but this is becoming a boring issue for readers, so once again will try to keep interest going on some more information on Mexico which has such a fascinating culture and history. This week a little on the status of religion in the country.

There is evidence of inhabitants in Mexico more than 10,000 years ago, and the country is considered as one of the cradles of civilization. Scholars accept that the cultures of Mesoamerica, that mainly existed in Mexico, and the civilization in Norte Chico, a region in the coastal area of Peru, dating back to 3500BCE, emerged independently from other world centres. The development of the Mexico centre began in 7000 BCE. Much later, during the 300-year rule by the Spanish, it became a crossroads for the people and cultures of Europe, Africa, and Asia. The Spanish arrival and colonization brought Roman Catholicism to the country, the main religion of Mexico. Roman Catholics are by far the majority of the Christian worshipers.

Although the country's population is mainly Roman Catholic it is in fact a secular state, as designated in the Constitution of 1917. The Government introduced anti-clerical laws that imposed limitations on church influence. In 1927 the National League for the Defence of Religious Liberty stimulated the Cristeros, an army of Catholic rebels, mainly of peasant stock, to oppose the anti Christian government forces of president Plutarco Elías Calles. After a long and very violent struggle, the Cristeros gained a foothold for religious freedom. During the struggle many were executed by Government forces.

The government does not provide any financial contributions to the church, and the church does not participate in public education. It is estimated that 90% of the population claim to be Christian and over 50% attend weekly church services. Mexico has the world's second largest number of Catholics, after Brazil. The influence of the church is obvious in many aspects of life and culture, particularly in the more rural areas. Art and architecture glory in the religious heritage.

There are more than 90 Cathedrals in Mexico and most reflect the influence of the Spanish, none more so than in the Baroque style brought from Europe. Cathedral and Church architecture has multiple examples of the Baroque as in the magnificent façade of Topotzotlan Church.

In Escondido there are many churches serving the Roman Catholic community. They are varied in style and one modern concrete edifice is yet to be finished. It is a huge structure covering a whole block but I show here a photo of a more traditional representation from the sanctuary of St Thomas's.

Thursday 20/05/2021: I jump several days as have just the usual day to day activity which is to walk the five ks to the Gym in the morning and then back to greet the fishermen and buy a fish for a meal. Sometimes walk along the beach in the afternoon and later do some writing. Although this seems ideal it has become a boring existence. Have tried to find some teaching work but unsuccessful as most schools have been closed in the Covid pandemic.

Friday 21/05/2021: As mentioned in the last log pre-Hispanic artefacts were up for auction by Sotheby's in New York. Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History was trying to stop the sale but failed, nineteen were sold for a combined total of just under US $657,500 . The Maya stone effigy, pictured in the last log, sold for $352,800. Made between A.D. 550 and 950, the late classic period piece is related to a Mesoamerican ballgame that depicts a bat, a jaguar and a serpent.

Among the other Mexican pieces sold at the auction were an A.D. 250–450 Maya orangeware vessel of a waterbird. A 900–300 B.C. Olmec greenstone figure with a supernatural mask; a Nayarit kneeling female figure and several other examples of Mesoamerican sculpture. All items went to museums or private buyers.

Monday 24/05/2021: I have just discovered the existence of an amazing female Mexican artist Paola Delfin whose work is mainly influenced by illustrations and organic forms. She uses a mixture of unusual materials to explore a variety of topics to beauty and truth from a feminine perspective. Paola recognised that her messages need to be large for full impact and she has works around the world using this principle. Her philosophy of life has a resonance with me.

"I believe, besides any difficulty in life, we all have a shelter to turn to. I painted this wall thinking of that idea. I come from a country which is a beautiful place but is going through some difficult moments, same as Ukraine, so no matter which kind of troubles are going on, there is always a place of peace, even if everything seems dark. I chose to paint this mural in black and white and cut it in two pieces, because I believe beauty can present itself in the darkest moments."

She has to work from high rise ladders to create her imposing and beautiful artistic works, such as the one in Kiev depicted.

Friday 28/05/2021: To complete this log must thank KLIM for sponsorship of gear so include an example of their super art work that depicts riding bikers. Wish I could be doing the same but have just broken my big toe so once more in despair. Been told by a Doctor that it will take eight weeks to heal. Would you Adam and Eve it? Curried snails and custard. Cathy and Spencer.



MORE MEXICO MATTERS

Tuesday 04/05/2021: Still here and waiting for final repairs to the bike and as before, hoping to move in the next couple of weeks. Dream on! In other logs I have provided a fair amount of information on the sights of Mexico so this week decided on covering some on the sounds of this vibrant country as music is always present and exciting.

The foundation of Mexican music comes from its indigenous heritage as the original inhabitants used drums, such as the teponaztli, flutes, rattles, conches as trumpets and their voices to make music. This ancient music is still played in some parts of Mexico. Much of the contemporary music of Mexico was written during and after the Spanish colonial period, for traditional instruments. During the fight for independence the revolutionaries often encouraged themselves with patriotic songs.

< Click to hear Mariachi Alas de Mexico (Fiesta de Mexico) >

Today modern versions of the instruments are played like the vihuela as used in Mariachi music. This instrument is strummed with all of the fingernail tips to produce a rich, full and clear sound of the chords.Many vihuela players have longer than normal fingernails on their strumming hand to facilitate their playing technique and to get a clear crystal sound. In Mariachi bands there is always one vihuela player along with several violinists. They wear traditional clothes and accompany dancers dressed in colourful costumes.

In the colonial period regional musical groups existed throughout the country but a national music began to develop in the nineteenth century. This heralded in a nationalistic flavour and military bands flourished. The National Conservatory of Music was founded in 1866 and the National anthem was composed by a Cuban, Jaime Nuno Music became very patriotic.

< Click to hear Mexico Lindo y Querido | Playing For Change >

A variety of musical styles from elsewhere was incorporated into Mexican popular music in more recent times including Afro-Caribbean rhythms from Cuba and Haiti. Music, dance, and poetry flourished in the late 19th century and additionally the National Conservatory of Music was strongly influenced by Italian and French composers at the turn of the twentieth century.

Having mentioned Italian and French composers brings to mind a mad Irishman, Brian Fitzgerald, who became obsessed with attempting to build an Opera House in Peru, not Mexican I know but worth mentioning as the German director, Werner Hertzog, made an amazing film about him called 'Fitzcarraldo' Not to be missed if you can find it. Five and a half stars!!

And for those who would like a moment of happiness and joy but with a message in the lyrics, please listen to Guantanamera which is a compilation of performing musicians, mainly from Cuba with the rhythm of the Americas. It is also sad for me as my mother loved this music. Click on the image below and don't forget to watch the 'little lighty' near the end...



Friday 07/05/2021: Must include a mural to bring me down to earth. It is a painting of 'wonder-wheels' and is useful as a precursor to my next text which is some advice on bike riding in Mexico, following on from a previous comment on driving.

Be careful if you try to pass other drivers as they sometimes change direction without signalling and at other times a blinker is used to signal it is safe to overtake. Beware! Many roads do not have pavements so pedestrians are often in the road and, at times, step far out to avoid hazards. It is not uncommon for vehicles to stop in the middle of the road to greet friends or to have a business meeting. Watch out for motorists who suddenly decide to exit, both right and left. Heavily laden vehicles deposit their loads without warning bringing traffic to a sudden stop. Quite often there are police check points. Be polite and patient as they are probably looking for criminals. Let common sense prevail.

Thursday 13/05/2021: Missed a few days as have been working on the Tenere which is a nightmare as parts that have to be replaced have seized in their housings so difficult to extract them. Still working on it!! Will it ever be back on the road?

One item in the news to mention is that Sotheby's in New York are auctioning artefacts from Mexico in a sale of South and Central American items. One of these is a Mayan stone carving from A.D. 550 to 950 with a starting price of US $38,000. The online auction lists 26 Mesoamerican pieces. Sotheby's describes it as an artefact that probably represents a ritual effigy of equipment used in a Mesoamerican ballgame, in this case an axe. It seems a pity that these heritage artefacts will go to a buyer and be locked away in a private vault.

Lastly please go to the Photo Archive, here > for a stunning mural that had to be photographed and have named it 'Serenity'. The clarity is exceptional and is a stunning image. Pea soup and coconut husks. Love from Cathy and Spencer.

ALAS, STILL HERE

Monday 26/04/2021: It looks like the UK has made steady progress on controlling the epidemic and people are free to roam, albeit with some restrictions. Well done NHS and vaccination programme but until coronavirus is under control world-wide the threat will remain and international spread will not be controlled. Mexico is making some progress in its fight against the disease but as yet we are limited in what we can do. The local inhabitants are not that phased and life follows much the same pattern as in the past few months, maybe we can be on the move soon.

As I mentioned a couple of entries ago sharks were sighted off the coast nearby and sometimes close to the beach areas but now discovery has been made of Great Whites in the Gulf of California off the coast of Mexico. This is not that great a distance by shark swim from our locality. Evidence has been provided by fishermen based on San Esteban Island who have caught at least fourteen Great Whites, sold their meat and kept some teeth and jaws as trophies and proof.

It has been known for some time that sharks breed in this area but there are only a few hunting grounds for the Great Whites and it is illegal to fish for them. One of the largest Whites recorded was known in the area and was recorded as over 20 feet in length. If they continue to be hunted they will be extinct in a few years. Marine scientists from America are attempting to protect them. Let's hope they succeed. They are such awe-inspiring creatures and hope they come this way.

Wednesday 28/04/2021: As discussed in the last log the Tarahumara are amazing long-distance runners and their marathons are part of ancient tradition but another aspect of their life is the observation of Santa Semana which has just been celebrated.

During Holy Week, the Tarahumara will dance from dawn to dusk to the rhythm of the drum, which they will play for hours without rest. The dances signify a clash between good and evil. With each footstep they believe they are weakening the Devil and thanking God. There are references to Christ's death, crucifixion and resurrection. The dancers form a vibrant procession of various characters, drummers, flautists and many who carry banners and flags. The front of the line includes a village woman who bears a depiction of Jesus, a man wearing a large conical hat resembling a piñata, and various mestizo ladies carrying crosses made from palm branches and statues of Mary and Jesus. The whole village follows the dancers and drummers in colourful waving streams.

In the most traditional part of the celebration, villagers split into groups the chamucos, representing the righteous, and the morocos, the devils, and then they wrestle while an excited crowd cheers. The scene is chaotic — multiple matches going on, stumbling bodies succumbing to the pressure of weight and limbs. After triumph over evil the drumming starts again and dancing continues for several more days. Finally there is cessation and village life resumes. The Tarahumara are not exhausted, which shows their stamina and endless energy. I have to add that during the whole period of dancing the men are fed a special beer brew and smoke a weed that induces a trance like state.

Friday 30/04/2021: Noticed an unusual 'clinic' sign today which I gather is quite popular among certain males who sport a manly encumbrance. Men come from miles to have treatment for upper-lip treatment. I am not in need of such so do not have to bother and can walk by nonchalantly. I don't think Jesus ever had need of such a clinic.

Saturday 01/05/2021: Another month!! Time does not stand still and feeling pretty depressed as no progress is being made. Also, as you know, my bike parts have arrived but not yet back on the road. A biker without a bike is like a camel without a hump if you follow my meaning. But as I think about it adventure biking is not all plain ...riding and many people are in more desperate situations The bike, and still being here, brings to mind an incident that I experienced in Africa which, forgive me, I am going to relate at length. It is an excerpt from 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker.'

"I was feeling pretty down about the bike problems and my lack of progress, as I walked past the street children once again. 'Forrest' was always polite and not pushy and because I was wallowing in my self-pity, I didn't notice him walking next to me, almost running in fact, to keep up with my strides. I felt a tug on my shirt and looked down next to me. He said nothing, but looked up at me, imploringly. His nose was running and he had a brown, dirt stain on his hair, where he had obviously laid his head down to sleep the night before. I felt a stab of sadness and hopelessness, and reached down and brushed the dirt from his hair. I said to him, "Attends! Attends un moment!" and headed down the road to the nearest street vendor. I bought him some cheap Chinese chocolate from a vendor wearing a David Beckham shirt and bedroom slippers. I wrapped a small amount of money around the sweets and approached Forrest with my hand outstretched. When he looked down at his hand, it dawned on him what I had given him. His face slowly contorted into a grimace and he burst into a flood of tears, his shoulders wracked with emotion, his face collapsing with grief and thanks at the same time. I was so taken aback I gave him a big hug, but had to walk off, as I was being watched, and I could feel the tears welling up in my eyes. I wanted to hug him some more and say it would all be OK, but that's only in films, and it was not going to be OK. It was soul-destroying, and had a real effect on me. I decided to go for a walk to clear my head and wandered around aimlessly for a half hour. I eventually made it to the outskirts of the city. I turned down a wide boulevard with a derelict grassy area running down the left hand side of the road. Set on the 'lawn' was a funfair of sorts; rickety, rusted swings and slides and a dodgy-looking dodgem track. All the cars were occupied, but the strange thing I quickly noticed was that everyone was driving extremely carefully and politely, making great efforts to avoid one another! The absolute opposite to their driving ethos on real roads and, let's face it, not really the point of bumper cars! What a strange world we live in."

Life is so full of contrasts.



Ice cream sandwiches and happiness. Spencer and Cathy

MEXICO HERITAGE

Monday 01/03/2021: Another month and still in Mexico and obviously I am not an Adventure Bike Rider at the moment as the covid pandemic has restricted travel but hopefully in a few weeks will be able to continue on my continental quest. Probably will head north to America and, in time, up to Alaska.

To prove I have been an adventurer I am providing a link to some promos of my travels around Africa and South and Central America.

< African Motorcycle Diaries - Promo >
< South America Motorcycle Diaries - Snippet >

Wednesday 03/03/2021: Back to more snippets on things Mexican as nothing much to say on biking exploits. In November 1910, Mexico was plunged into a long civil war between the federal government, run by dictator Porfirio Díaz Mori, and thousands of revolutionaries from various factions. For the revolutionaries, the war was an opportunity to overthrow the outdated class system put in place by the Spanish elite. The revolutionaries were fighting for the people who worked the land, for the mestizos; a war for the indigenous; and a war for the poor. Women took up the cause and joined the fighters. They were known as The Soldaderas, but the term Adelitas ,"little Angels", is used in Mexico today to refer to women who participated in the Mexican Revolution, battling government forces. The term Adelitas originally referred to the nurses with revolutionary forces.

The revolution is recognized as the first major political, social, and cultural uprising of the 20th century. Prior to the arrival of European conquistadors, the region was home to one of the world's advanced Empires: the Aztecs. After the Spanish conquest of 1521, the most powerful group in Mexico were Spanish-born citizens. Three centuries later, in 1821, after ten years of war the country gained independence from Spain. However the war mainly benefited the criollo (Spanish-blooded upper class) minority. This led to the revolutionary struggle now known as the Mexican Revolution. The two most famous and powerful leaders were Emiliano Zapata and Francisco ('Pancho') Villa, who typified the main characteristics of the popular movement.

Friday 05/03/2021: As mentioned in the last LOG Mexican craftsmen are skilled at making metal, silver and gold filigree articles of jewellery so here is an example of arracadas (earings). In Mexican folk art there is a long tradition of using metal to create wall decorations and artefacts. Go to the Photo Archive for examples >

Saturday 06/03/2021: Most people know about drug wars in Mexico but not so well known are the Avocado Wars. These are causing problems for farmers as conflict is common over land appropriation in order to grow avocados which bring huge profit to gangs who seize the land. These wars affect mainly Mexico and Chile. But why the name avocado? When the Aztecs discovered the avocado they named it '?huacatl', which means "testicle." The texture, shape, and size of the fruit, as well as the way it grows in pairs, inspired the name avocado.

Sunday 07/03/2021: Just received news of my friend Gareth Jones who is prone to indulging in mud baths. He is trying to get through Africa on a Harley Davidson 1300 road bike. Madman! Looks like he is having a spot of bovver! hiding in mud somewhere whilst bemused spectators look on. God luck buddy and carry on. You will make it.

Monday 08/03/2021: Caught a glimpse of a bobcat in a Pipe cactus. Always special when one sees a natural creature in its habitat. The Mexican bobcat is found throughout Mexico, but primarily in Baja, western Mexico, and southward from the Sonoran desert. It lives in a variety of areas, including forests, coastal swamps, deserts, and scrublands. The animals are non-migratory and are territorial. Sad when mankind is unkind to the wild areas of the planet by destroying areas like the Amazon forests and driving roads through AFRICA.

Lastly, check out the Photo Archive for some recent pictures. Take care and baked-beans with avocados on toast. Spencer and Cathy.

DAY BY DAY

Wednesday 14/04/2021: It is simply day by day these days. Dreams are fading as here we still are in Mexico and both time and finances slipping by with little hope of change at the moment. Have to maintain a sense of stability in trying times. Fingers crossed that we will all be able to experience a semblance of normality in the coming days and months.

As you know I have always followed extreme sports and one of these is ultra-marathon running. Here in Mexico there is a tribe of indigenous people who participate in runs of 100 miles or more, for enjoyment. They are the Tarahumara or Rarámuri, who run vast distances often wearing sandals, huaraches, a traditional form of minimal footwear that has tire treads as soles. They say running is in their blood: isolation and hilly terrain helped them build endurance to hunt prey and to contact others. They live in widely dispersed settlements, and have a tradition of long-distance running of up to 200 miles (320 km) in one session. This is often over a period of two days through their homeland of rough canyon country. They became famous after they were featured in 'Born to Run', a bestseller by Christopher McDougall, an American who lived with them for some time to study their life and customs. Rarámuri, means "runners on foot" or "those who run fast". Each year they organise a 100k marathon and non-Tarahumara also participate. The video provides an inkling of what they are about but best to read the book if at all interested in long distance running. Click on this link or the image above to access a youtube documentary >

Thursday 15/04/2021: Travelling on roads in Mexico is an 'extreme' experience and could be termed a 'SPORT' In cars, taxis, buses, all kinds of vehicles drivers wait a few moments at a red light and then, becoming bored, drive off in any direction they choose. Seems as if many have a death wish. Somehow accidents are avoided as if drivers are protected by the gods. On mountain road sides I have seen many crosses where there has been a ghastly accident, some where busses have careered off the side of a pass. In towns and cities dented bumpers and bonnets appear to be the extent of damage. Once a taxi ran into the back of my bike and my number plate was damaged. A slight inconvenience.

Saturday 17/04/2021: Had an encounter with creatures of nature today. One very innocent and harmless the other, I learnt, was deadly. The former was a Puffer fish that was washed up onto the sandy beach and was struggling for survival. Tried to save him but failed as he was too distressed. The other was a Yellow-Bellied Sea Snake that is apparently one of the most deadly of the species. Being a stupid fellow, me, not the snake, I picked it up to inspect before letting it go. Moved away pretty quickly into the sea!! Is this another 'extreme' sport to add to my list?

Monday 19/04/2021: Just thought you'd like to know that I am now a Sea Captain with a bona-fide yatch to sail. Waiting for bookings from rich clients to go deep sea fishing. Not true. I'm afraid' but a nice dream to keep active and quell the boredom.

Wednesday 21/04/2021: Rode straight into a machete wielding demonstration about land rights, so jumped off to film. The Boss approached me and said 'No photos. 'He asked me if I was scared of all the machetes and I said 'No,' He looked me in the eyes, barked some orders to the Police and said 'You can take photos'. The Straw-Hat Brigade saluted and waved their machetes. Love Mexico!

Friday 23/04/2021: Visited a local church and found that a ceremony was in progress and afterwards children dressed for the occasion formed up on the steps for photographs. Once again you cannot escape the colour and vibrancy of Mexican life as shown in the dress of the youngsters.

Saturday 24/04/2021: Good news! My bike spares have arrived from the UK after another transit saga, around the world in ?? days, 22 stops on the way! Not too bad. Now have to rebuild the Tenere and get it back on the road and might be able to do some riding. Will be in the workshop with Mario as soon as pos and hope all goes well.

Some other news is that Sam Manicom has accepted a chapter I sent to him for his latest book which will be a compilation of writings from Adventurers from around the world. Should be very interesting, both serious and amusing. Look forward to it Sam. Well done Buddy.

Also I have been in touch with Adventure Show oganisers to cancel this year as Covid has scotched my attendance but have been asked to Headline all four major Shows in UK next year... NEC Show London, The Overland Event, Horizons Unlimited HUBB and The Adventure Bike Rider Show ABR. Will make them all.

STOP PRESS...

Thank you to John Small, Managing Director of Cool Covers for the sponsorship. Looking forward to testing out the new seat cover in hot and rainy conditions. Let's see if it does what it says on the Tin! Thanks for sending it to Mexico! Check link for info on Cool Covers products >

Also, click on the image below or the following link for an in-depth interview on the recent Teapot One - Bru Time Podcast > where you will hear more about our plans and past adventures from Cathy and myself. I am told that it comes over as informative and interesting. Enjoy.



MEXICO MAROONED

Wednesday 30/03/2021: By the time you read this Easter would have been and gone but I have decided to provide some info on how it is recognised in Mexico. Holy Week and Easter is known as Semana Santa and on Palm Sunday, Domingo de Ramos, prior to Easter, the arrival of Jesus in Jerusalem is commemorated throughout Mexico. According to the Bible Jesus rode into Jerusalem on a donkey and the people in the streets laid down palm branches in his path. In many towns and villages on this day there are processions re-enacting Jesus's triumphal entry, and woven palms are sold outside churches It is a time of joy and family get-togethers.

Thursday 01/04/2021: Another month gone by and Mexicans everywhere are preparing for Easter celebrations and for gatherings on the beach after religious services. However 'Be Afraid, Very Afraid.' The unusual sighting of two sharks uncomfortably close to an Oaxaca beaches has caused authorities to issue warnings to take precautions or, preferably, not to enter the sea at all.

The sharks were spotted near the shore of Mermejita beach in Mazunte, between Puerto Escondido and Huatulco. Massive megalodons used to rule the seas between about 23 million to 2.5 million years ago, as pictured in the illustration. Why these giants got so big isn't known, but may be due to a combination of warm-bloodedness, readily available large prey — and cannibalization. Those spotted not quite as big but still dangerous. Must get some shark repellent spray, freely available in the local supermarket. Two for one! Don't know anyone who has used it or quite how it works!!

Good Friday 02/04/2021: The warning about the sharks went unheeded as a party atmosphere prevailed in Puerto Escondido, especially on and around Playa Zicatela, the resort town's famous surfing beach. Young local revellers packed bars and other venues that line the beach front Social distancing was also ignored which led to breaking basic health rules. Authorities did nothing to enforce them. Surely this would lead to more Covid-19 cases

Tuesday 06/04/2021: After the events of Easter decided to research another artefact that is very common in the craft markets and which is known as Barro negro pottery ("black clay") This is a style of pottery from Oaxaca and is distinguished by its colour, sheen and unique designs. It heralds from ancestral craft is still used in everyday life; and is a much appreciated style of pottery in Mexico. In ages past it was only in a greyish matte finish. Sometime in the 1950s, Doña Rosa Real discovered that she could change the colour and shine of the pieces by polishing the clay pieces. Just before the formed clay piece is completely dry, it is polished with a quartz stone to compress the surface. After firing, the piece emerges a shiny black instead of a dull grey. Many different kinds of objects are made of Barro negro including pots, whistles, flutes, bells, masks, lamps, and animal figures. The pots are truly stunning and are collected all over the world.

Thursday 08/04/2021: Just thought I would include a couple of 'artistic' shots, one to show that Cathy is still here. She hasn't done a runner and is very much in Mexico. She has tested a Honda 150 recently and goes for an early morning walk along the beach most days avoiding crocodiles and sharks.


Also noticed these notices worth noting near other notices on an un-notable day when not much else worth noticing and not much else to note...

Sunday 11/04/2021: Lastly for this week a blast from the past as from Mexico not too much to excite. Came across something that reminded me of my early days in Africa, Kenya, to be precise. Used to wander around the bush with friends and my brother oblivious to any dangers. Lived in a mud hut with my parents for a year and often went 'cattle-rustling'. Very happy days of freedom and enjoyment. Kenya's President was Jomo Kenyatta and it was a peaceful country. We lived 100 miles from Nairobi and at the time the journey to the capital took several hours on red earth roads known as 'murram' and quite often impassable in the rainy season. The trip was sometimes stopped by elephants and giraffe on the 'road'.

Have a good week. Spencer and Cathy.

MISCELLANY

Sunday 21/03/2021: As you may know my bike has suffered on its incredible journey of 163 458 kilometres around Africa, Central, South America and Mexico and is in need of another major refit. Since I cannot source parts here I have had to rely upon my good buddy Craig Carey-Clinch to arrange for them to be shipped from the UK. They are on the way and I should receive them in a few days. So into the workshop to get the Tenere running again. Hopefully all will go well so the next hurdle is to somehow get out of Mexico to head north.

Monday 22/03/2021: Have had some news from friends in Venezuela where Cathy and I were treated very kindly by the local people who were suffering from the hardships imposed by the regime. Colombia has just declared that it will recognise the 1.8 million refugees from Venezuela providing protection to 'enable them to integrate' into Colombian society. The 'Liberator', Simon Bolivar, had attempted to unify South America and surely would have been pleased with the philanthropic decree of the Colombian Government.

Tuesday 23/03/2021: To Brazil next where 300,000 Brazilians have died from coronavirus whilst President Bolsonaro continues to deny that it exists and has told the population to 'man up' and get on with life. The Brazilians actually call the disease ''drowning in the dry'' because without medication sufferers are just left outside to fight for breath.

Last week a quarter of deaths around the world from coronavirus were in Brazil. The new Health Minister stated that he was 'headed to the hospitals to see if people were actually dying of Covid.' Of course this attitude endangers the whole of South and Central America, even as far as Mexico, where we are, and makes restrictions more severe.

Wednesday 24/03/2021: On the sea front in Escondido a statue of a surfer has been erected as the area is a first class attraction for top surfers, when Covid allows. Many American and other nationalities frequent the sea along the nearby coast as huge rollers make it a magnet for the borders. The statue represents a surfer riding a wave about to peak.

In the news recently was a female surfer from El Salvador, Katherine Diaz, 22, who was practising for the Olympics, as surfing has been included for the first time, was struck by lightning and instantly killed. She was on El Tunco beach near San Salvador. Surfers in Mexico and elsewhere mourn her loss.

Annually, world-wide, it is estimated that between 6 to 24 thousand people are killed by lightning. In the UK only one a year and in the States 49. A lightning strike or lightning bolt is an electric discharge between the atmosphere and the ground. A single lightning event is a "flash", which is a complex, multi-stage process. Most flashes only "strike" one physical location, referred to as a "termination". I used to live in Swaziland, now Eswatini, and the country has one of the highest number of 'flashes' each year.

Scary if you were out in the beautiful hills. Maracaibo in Venezuela has the highest each year. The Empire State Building was once hit 15 times in 15 minutes.

Friday 26/03/2021: New friend has come to call and looking for Cathy. We seem to be a beacon for animals but perhaps it is because we are soft-hearted and always provide them with some morsels, enough for a couple of mouthfuls. This is Bert but he doesn't much like the name so any suggestions.

Sunday 28/03/2021: Just thought I would add an advertising mural to complete the mix this week. Mexico has art everywhere and colourful murals and placards are always worth an inspection. Who can you spot in this example? Be safe, smile and be happy, Cathy and Spencer.

Monday 29/03/2021: Just learned that my bike parts are being held in the UK for more documentation! Will we ever get back on the road?

NEED TO MOVE

Tuesday 09/03/2021: CURRENT AFFAIRS... more news on things Mexican

Andrés Manuel López Obrador, who was born before women in Mexico were able to vote, spent International Women's Day, 08/03/2021, barricaded in the National Palace behind a wall guarded by riot police. For a president who promised respect, tolerance and peace, it looked as if he was at war with half his country - women. Feminists were incensed with the President even before he erected a three-meter-high metal barrier as a "wall of peace" around his Palace ahead of an International Women's Day march.

As many as eleven women are killed every day in Mexico and yet Obrador is supporting a member of his Morena party, accused of being a serial rapist, as governor of a major state, in elections in June. Women carried signs saying: "If only they protected us like they protect their monuments." And shouted for protection from male violence.

In England a similar protest was organised in London to mark the recent murder of Sarah Everard and to protest about violence against women. Police in London clashed with mourners and protesters. Sarah Everard's disappearance as she walked home on the evening of March 3 had led to accounts from women about the dangers of walking streets alone at night, and dismay at the failure of police and wider society to tackle this. However the number of women actually being abducted and murdered in the UK each year is very low.

Friday 12/03/2021: On a lighter note I have just learnt of an artist who creates huge murals for public buildings one of which has recently been unveiled at the Guadalajara Chamber of Commerce. The artist is Jorge Monroy whose 68-square-meter mural is entitled The Origins of Guadalajara. Obviously he has great artistic skill and a deep knowledge of the history of Mexico, and particularly of Guadalajara. His mural is a series of panels depicting the origin and development of the city. The example provided portrays those who influenced the cultural and religious heritage of the city and its expansion over five centuries.

Tuesday 16/03/2021: Last Log I mentioned the Avocado Wars so to continue the food theme this week just a few words on another edible, Coconuts! In the Guerrero village of Coacayul, next to a 70-hectare coconut plantation, is El Museo del Coco, or The Coconut Museum. Its exhibits illustrate the wide range of products derived from a single coconut — everything from virgin coconut oil, coconut milk, yogurt, butter and cottage cheese. The museum encourages the consumption of the fruit and its ingredients by raising awareness of the health benefits of this fruit. There's a bar where you can purchase tequila shots or rum to imbibe with coconut. The entrance carries many coconut-based products, such as luxurious soaps, toys, candle holders, bowls and more. The example shown is from the early 19th century Spanish Colonial period.

Thursday 18/03/2021: As we have been here such a long time have made friends with some of the fishermen and go out with them sometimes which means we get some cut-price fish, two-for-one. In fact fish is often part of our diet along with vegetables and fruit. There are many stalls selling both and also fish vendors as in the picture. Fish but no chips. Looks as if the stall holder is feather dusting her assistant.

It may surprise some that Napoleon Bonaparte was planning to escape from the island of St Helena where he had been exiled after his defeat at the battle of Waterloo in 1815, by 'submarine!' His aim was to get to Mexico where it was said he had some supporters and to found a new Empire! He died of stomach cancer before he could execute his plan. The painting is by a French Academic Artist Jean-Leon Gerome.

Friday 19/03/2021: Another blow to our plans!!!! Mexico has closed all land borders so once more stymied. What to do? The coronavirus pandemic has really caused us huge problems logistically and financially. Funds now in DIRE STRAITS. So for all those who are missing friends and family during this lock down click on the link and think at least you are still in this world. Take care, Spencer and Cathy.

< So Far Away From Me | Dire Straits >

MEXICO HERITAGE

Monday 01/03/2021: Another month and still in Mexico and obviously I am not an Adventure Bike Rider at the moment as the covid pandemic has restricted travel but hopefully in a few weeks will be able to continue on my continental quest. Probably will head north to America and, in time, up to Alaska.

To prove I have been an adventurer I am providing a link to some promos of my travels around Africa and South and Central America.

< African Motorcycle Diaries - Promo >
< South America Motorcycle Diaries - Snippet >

Wednesday 03/03/2021: Back to more snippets on things Mexican as nothing much to say on biking exploits. In November 1910, Mexico was plunged into a long civil war between the federal government, run by dictator Porfirio Díaz Mori, and thousands of revolutionaries from various factions. For the revolutionaries, the war was an opportunity to overthrow the outdated class system put in place by the Spanish elite. The revolutionaries were fighting for the people who worked the land, for the mestizos; a war for the indigenous; and a war for the poor. Women took up the cause and joined the fighters. They were known as The Soldaderas, but the term Adelitas ,"little Angels", is used in Mexico today to refer to women who participated in the Mexican Revolution, battling government forces. The term Adelitas originally referred to the nurses with revolutionary forces.

The revolution is recognized as the first major political, social, and cultural uprising of the 20th century. Prior to the arrival of European conquistadors, the region was home to one of the world's advanced Empires: the Aztecs. After the Spanish conquest of 1521, the most powerful group in Mexico were Spanish-born citizens. Three centuries later, in 1821, after ten years of war the country gained independence from Spain. However the war mainly benefited the criollo (Spanish-blooded upper class) minority. This led to the revolutionary struggle now known as the Mexican Revolution. The two most famous and powerful leaders were Emiliano Zapata and Francisco ('Pancho') Villa, who typified the main characteristics of the popular movement.

Friday 05/03/2021: As mentioned in the last LOG Mexican craftsmen are skilled at making metal, silver and gold filigree articles of jewellery so here is an example of arracadas (earings). In Mexican folk art there is a long tradition of using metal to create wall decorations and artefacts. Go to the Photo Archive for examples >

Saturday 06/03/2021: Most people know about drug wars in Mexico but not so well known are the Avocado Wars. These are causing problems for farmers as conflict is common over land appropriation in order to grow avocados which bring huge profit to gangs who seize the land. These wars affect mainly Mexico and Chile. But why the name avocado? When the Aztecs discovered the avocado they named it '?huacatl', which means "testicle." The texture, shape, and size of the fruit, as well as the way it grows in pairs, inspired the name avocado.

Sunday 07/03/2021: Just received news of my friend Gareth Jones who is prone to indulging in mud baths. He is trying to get through Africa on a Harley Davidson 1300 road bike. Madman! Looks like he is having a spot of bovver! hiding in mud somewhere whilst bemused spectators look on. God luck buddy and carry on. You will make it.

Monday 08/03/2021: Caught a glimpse of a bobcat in a Pipe cactus. Always special when one sees a natural creature in its habitat. The Mexican bobcat is found throughout Mexico, but primarily in Baja, western Mexico, and southward from the Sonoran desert. It lives in a variety of areas, including forests, coastal swamps, deserts, and scrublands. The animals are non-migratory and are territorial. Sad when mankind is unkind to the wild areas of the planet by destroying areas like the Amazon forests and driving roads through AFRICA.

Lastly, check out the Photo Archive for some recent pictures. Take care and baked-beans with avocados on toast. Spencer and Cathy.

MEXICO MATTERS

Monday 15/02/2021: Covid-19 Update. There are signs of relief as the number of Covid-19 cases has reduced slightly but they are still very high in some areas. Mexico will have just two maximum risk red light States as of today. Guanajuato and Guerrero remain in the red zone, while the other 11 maximum risk states will switch to high risk orange. Unfortunately Mexico's vaccination programme has virtually stalled as there are a very limited number of doses currently in the country. However 1.5 million AstraZeneca and Pfizer shots are expected to arrive shortly allowing the inoculation of seniors to begin. Let's hope they do arrive. Where we are is close to a green zone so hope it stays that way.

As you know travel around the world is restricted because of coronavirus so a Canadian musician, Aiden McGill, who visits Mexico regularly, has released a song and video designed to lighten our mood and to help us cope with 'loco-down'. In the video, against a backdrop of scenes of snow in Canada, with plastic palm trees, 'Tan In a Can', and heat up to 32C 'Our Own Mexico' brings a Mexican beach vacation home to an Ontario winter. Turn the volume up and dance to the beat. Enjoy.

< Aiden McGill: 'Our Own Mexico' >

Make sure you go to the first video on you tube with the opening sequence of the waves on the beach at 3mins 44 secs.

Tuesday 16/02/2021: As I mentioned in my previous post Mexico astounds by its variety of its artistic output. Came across another example, this time, metal work of a filigree nature which is a form of intricate metalwork used in jewellery and other forms of metalwork. In jewellery, it is usually of gold and silver, made with tiny beads or twisted threads, or both in combination, soldered together or to the surface of an object of the same metal and arranged in artistic motifs. There are many silver smiths in Mexico making intricate filigree pendants and rings. This is a larger example and a great advert for a well-known company.

Thursday 18/02/2021: Managed to get out of our two rooms for a walk into the beyond, beyond where I don't know, however came upon an abandoned bike that had 'spiritual connotations' so adopted my Hare Krishna persona and began ringing bells and intoning. Hm! Hm! Hm!. The bike's colour reminded me of Dutch connections and I just happened to have an orange cape in my kit (as you do) so here's a homage to my Dutch links which are as follows. My mad girlfriend of 25 years, is half South African, half Dutch. My College mate Alexander is now the King of Holland.

I owned a hippie barge/houseboat in Amsterdam for ten years (my Dad did not know, he does now) until one day I took a girlfriend there to impress her and all that remained above water was the kitchen chimney flue. That relationship drowned.

I like Dutch Cheese (Edam, Gouda, Nagelkaas, Leyden, Limburger, Valskaas, Maaslander, Roomano, Beemster, Leerdammer, Parrano, etc) and most of my posts are cheesy. Let's not forget Holland's most significant culinary cultural breakthroughs-- the pickled herring and smoked eel. Worth murdering for- not, obviously, that would be immoral and fishy behaviour.

Sunday 21/02/2021: My brother, Simon, daughter's birthday today so happy birthday Ysabella hope you have a splendid day in Cornwall. Probably swim in the sea!! keeping to coronavirus restrictions.

Tuesday 23/02/2021: Went into town today in my all purpose VEHICLE which saves on rent but have problems when I come to low bridges or overhanging branches. Nevertheless does away with the need to look for suitable accommodation in a new location. Also visitors, when permitted, have a place to rest weary heads. Note that the ladder extends and gives access to the roof for sunbathing or sleeping in hot weather but have to take care not to roll off or go sleep walking. Have to be careful in windy weather. If you believe this you need to eat more cheese.

Thursday 25/02/2021: Mexican friend came on his bike for a visit. He uses it when herding cattle. Says it doesn't spook them. His cows are not that intelligent, and also deaf and short sighted. He has a hooter that sounds like a bull so the cows follow in expectation!!

Saturday 27/02/2021: Participated in the Armchair Adventure Festival chat show with buddies. Both Cathy and myself engaged with other biking enthusiasts and welcomed the chance to share experiences. Go to link image below and forward to 10hrs and 46 mins and 48 secs. Good way to end the week so peace, love, respect for all from Cathy and Spencer.




STOP PRESS...

Up-coming Event not to be missed!



Booking now at: armchairadventurefestival.com/bootcamp - and don't forget to use the code for your 10% off! Look forward to seeing you there.

TEST OF ENDURANCE

Wednesday 03/02/2021: Still at a standstill in sunny Mexico whilst in the UK winter has arrived so have posted a photo of my father's garden where it is minus four degrees and Kent is covered in snow. In Scotland the temperature is apparently minus fifteen but not as cold as parts of Canada at minus 40!! My father had to break the ice for an early morning swim, no not for him, for the ducks! What a contrast to 28 degrees here.

Friday 05/02/2021: Have today another visit to a doctor for examination of damage caused many months ago to an important part of my anatomy!! It appears I have 'urethra stenosis by trauma' which will need surgical treatment. This is the result of a crash last year and is now in need of an urgent resolution. I have been down this road before when I travelled to Mexico City where the doctors did not inspire confidence so decided to postpone operation. Looks like I have now to bite the bullet as experiencing an increasing amount of pain.

Saturday 06/02/2021: Cathy Nel's birthday tomorrow and also John Delipps', my web site guru. HAPPY BIRTHDAY CATHY. This wonderful woman is asleep right now so I am setting up some balloons and presents and writing this post in the middle of the night, in stunning Mexico, as a surprise. She has listened to me drivel on for 25 years and we have trusted each other through 22 countries and 110 000+ kilometres. She is one proper Adventurer. Here's to more living life to the extreme. I will buy Cathy a new chair, its outlived its primary school days.

Monday 08/02/2021: Birthday. You can live to be a hundred if you give up all the things that make you want to live to be a hundred. Anyway, once you are over the hill you begin to pick up speed. But Cathy has posted a stunning photo to mark her day as life is the true adventure wherever you are but not many have the opportunity to live it as they would wish. We are the lucky ones.

Tuesday 09/02/2021: Whilst waiting outside the clinic to hear about the next phase of my medical treatment noticed two smart Dudes in their Sunday best. Super fellows enjoying a chat, one word a minute, and probably reminiscing on times gone by, pre-coronavirus at least. Love the look on the face of the older 'boy', friendly. See the Photo Archive for photos >

Wednesday 10/02/2021: As you know we are now almost honorary Mexicans so have adopted the local lifestyle. Among the delights of the region where we live, Escondido, on the coast but not that far from Oaxaca which is widely considered the gastronomic capital of Mexico. It is best known for its seven classic varieties of mole. This is a thick, complex sauce served with meat and rice. The most iconic is the smoky-sweet mole negro, made of a variety of ingredients. One has to taste this culinary speciality!!

Thursday 11/02/2021: Another aspect of Mexico which makes it attractive is the colourful dress, crafts, wall art and more, but also the art of carving dating back centuries. Came across this example today which shows the skill and imaginations of the people.

Had another friendly visitor today that seemed to want to take up permanent residence but my hospitality did not go to that extent. There are hundreds of different tarantulas around the world and South and Central America have the most varieties. Many in my accommodation! The spider originally bearing the name "tarantula" was Lycosa tarantula, a species of wolf spider native to Mediterranean Europe. The name is derived from the southern Italian town of Taranto. The term "tarantula" was subsequently applied to almost any large, unfamiliar species of ground-dwelling spider. The tarantella is a dance so called which the bite of the spider induces.

Sunday 14/02/2021: Lastly this is a special day and in Mexico, Valentine's Day is officially titled El Día del Amor y la Amistad (The Day of Love and Friendship). That means that if you want to celebrate like a Mexican, you shouldn't focus all your attention on your beloved, but rather on your friends and family too. Shops and restaurants are decorated every year with red balloons, red hearts, banners, and flowers to celebrate the day of love and friendship. Around the world, red roses and chocolates are on top of the list for romantic gifts on Valentine's Day, and the same goes in Mexico.

So peace and love and a red rose and a box of chocolates from Cathy and Me.



WHAT CAN ONE DO?

Friday 22/01/2021: There is not much one can do in almost total lockdown but to contemplate the future of our existence in a strangely isolated life at the moment. Adventure riding is on hold and plans to continue the quest to complete the circumnavigation of Central America and to continue on to another continent are subject to eradicating the world wide pandemic. Will we ever? Problems are not stop signs, they are guidelines. Next to trying and winning, the best thing is trying and losing. If you don't like something, change it: if you can't change it, change the way you think about it. We can't change our situation at the present so need to adapt and endeavour to remain positive.

Sunday 24/01/2021: Have managed to do some more rides in the local area, mindful of covid restrictions. Such a relief to escape our two room apartment and the wildlife that frequents our habitation. Apart from scorpions and snakes inside we have the pleasure of exotic vegetation and colourful birds outside. Though the Golden Eagle is Mexico's national bird, some believe it is the Crested Caracara depicted on the ancient Aztec pictogram that appears on Mexico's flag. One happy-chappy that appears quite frequently in the trees very nearby and inhabits the coastline of South West Mexico is the Motmot.

Wednesday 27/01/2021: MY bike is my friend for the next few days riding in Mexico AND have fantastic news. I have a massive new sponsor, one of the biggest names in Motorcycle brands, KLIM, to advertise their motorcycle gear. As they state, off-road, dual-sport and adventure riding is blessed and simultaneously cursed with a wide range of challenges. You have to contend with a great variety of terrain and weather, logistic and other potentially life-threatening conditions. For a sport that is more about where you can go than how to get there, off-road adventure riding is genuinely unique. KLIM products will enable me to achieve my goals whenever and where ever. Looking forward to testing KLIM gear as soon as possible.

Friday 29/01/2021: Disaster as bike has more problems. Distinct rattling and juddering which could be the crankshaft assembly unit. Back to stripping down Tenere once more. Soon the whole bike will be rebuilt with new parts. Several have advised ditching it but can't bring myself to do it. It really is part of me. Conducted a Zoom interview today, lasted an hour, and many interested and amazing people logged on for an enjoyable discussion. Thanks guys for the chance to talk about adventure riding experiences. Have a not so good pic of the duo zoomers.

Sunday 31/01/2021: Another month about to fly by but we are not 'flying' like everyone around the world in similar situations. Have been putting Metal Mule gear to good use outside the apartment to escape the heat but have to keep an eye out as geckoes dash in for mango lunch.

Monday 01/02/2021: Always like to include a photo of something strange, amusing or unusual so include the photo from Africa. I have seen six on a motorbike and other bikers with concrete slabs and building materials on their bikes and countless other examples of over loading. This photo I have named 'Room for Two More'. Hope you smile.

Tuesday 02/02/2021: A very common question people ask me at Shows -'Does all this travelling make you more open to other people?' The answer is a weird one. Yes it does. You realize that we are all the same. But at the same time it makes you more insular and less sociable. Not because there is anything wrong with people but because everything is so 'right' in nature, away from people. I realized two things very quickly about travelling. Don't spend much time in cities and towns and don't read websites about countries, especially government websites, you will never go anywhere. Having said that we had a bad experience today. There is no denying that Colombia and Mexico have relentless press coverage about drugs and cartels and 'Yes', it is an issue but not for the mass of the population of normal, law-abiding people. Bodies hanging from bridges is inter-cartel 'business'. Very few foreigners have been killed in these countries and it is usually by crossfire-'wrong place wrong time'. We have been in South, Central America and Mexico for 5 years now and it has been amazing. The family values, the politeness, the verve for life is contagious. Most impressive for me is that you never hear shouting. In Europe it's not unusual to hear a mother shouting at her child or a couple arguing. Never ever here. So the day to day living is extremely relaxed but I cannot shy away from reality. This is what happened today...

We went to our local gym, which is pretty rough but on the main road to Oaxaca City. The gym is above a 'fish frying drink spot' for some rough locals. A massive noise stopped us all training and we ran to the window. The noise was a gunman shooting in the air from a car. The next minute a very badly beaten man was thrown out into the car park. Cartel hit. Not dead but close.

Both his eyes were swollen shut and he obviously had a broken arm and a machete cut in his head. The ambulance called by Sergio, the gym owner, was extremely quick to respond and he was 'thrown', yes thrown into the Ambulance.

A grim episode but anywhere where Class A drugs are involved, violence ensues. In Africa, when I was growing up there was Lager and weed but South and Central America have been a serious eye opener to both Cathy and I. When they say drugs will steal your life, there is no exaggeration. The most desperate, dangerous and sorry, depraved people we have met in 20 countries all had one thing in common COCAINE! It is the absolute scourge of continents. Don't forget that the USA is the biggest consumer of cocaine in the world.

That's the end of my observation and account of a 'happening,' so lastly, on a happier note, in this year of the Olympics, hopefully, came across an 'athlete' in training for the hurdles. Incredible style and could get a flying start. Also check < PHOTO ARCHIVE > for more photos.

Peace, love, respect, harmony and tripe and olive stew for all, from me and the mad one Cathy.

HAVE BIKE - CAN'T TRAVEL

Monday 11/01/2021: Have finally got the bike back on the road but still some suspicious noises. Will get it sorted as have time on my hands as not able to go far as reported in the last log. I hope some of you have managed to listen to the Adventure Rider Radio interview. Proof that Cathy is not a fictitious character, as some have suggested, despite some photos of her on record!! We will be able to explore some areas nearby as long as we keep away from habitation so have an 'artistic' pic to prove that helmets are back in use.

Wednesday 13/01/2021: We have found a way to avoid Police Patrols on the beach. Simple matter of hiding in plain sight, perhaps, or maybe worried that we are self- isolating so Police keeping a safe distance.

Friday 15/01/2021: We have been on the hunt for new accommodation as where we are is now becoming too expensive but as yet without any joy. The covid lockdown prevents any chance of generating a source of income and plans for filming are on hold. Have completed another book but now needs to be edited in the UK before publication. Will take more time than originally thought. 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' on my African travels is still available so here is a short extract for those who are interested in buying a copy. Yes!! Of course it is a plug for which apologies. On the day I left the UK it was the worst weather of the year, torrential rain and a howling wind and yet hundreds of bikers turned up, together with the population of Biddenden, the village where I lived in Kent.

This extract is from Chapter 10 '2000 Beers' which I stumbled upon, stashed in the bush, and meeting with some Gabonese who had somehow 'acquired' the beer and had hidden it to sell at a later date.

His brother was an outspoken critic of the way the government was run and rumour had it that they were (The Government) involved in his relatives disappearance. Samson stated that he felt unsafe in the main cities and moved to Moanda in the far south of the country where he drifted into criminal activities. As we spoke, he seemed to sadden significantly and eventually, sighing and standing up, announced that they had to be getting on their way. Before leaving he thanked me, wished me luck on the rest of my journey and said, "Remember, Gabon is the world and the world is Gabon." I think the beer was going to his head but I was pleased that he felt I was important enough to impart philosophical advice to.

Samson stumbled down the path and returned with four more bottles of Regab, handing them to me and saying, "Good luck Mr. Spencer, I wish you safe journey." I wished them luck too, and returned to the clearing to sort out my sleeping arrangements. Unfortunately, I was now left with no option but to drink the remaining beers because, as I am sure you will appreciate, it is very dangerous to ride a motorbike with glass bottles in your luggage. Strangely enough, after my liquid dinner I slept very well that night, lying on top of my tent and marvelling at the brief, but wonderful encounters you have with people living a completely different life to you.

'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' contact www.youbyyou.co.uk to order a copy or log onto Amazon for paper back or ebook editions... and as if that is not enough, you can still follow the solo-circumnavigation of Africa on DVD taken from the TV series 'African Motorcycle Diaries' as broadcast throughout the world by getting your copy at www.dukevideo.com.

Sunday 17/01/2021: Nothing much to report as nothing much has happened in the past few days. As King Lear prophetically stated ''Nothing will come of nothing'' so decided to make extensive alterations to my Tenere whilst nothing much to do. Now have a quacking good bike.

Tuesday 19/01/2021: As you know I am always on the lookout for amusing signs and notices so post this one to bring a smile in covid gloom. Cairo is a noisy, hectic place, polluted with heavy traffic belching fumes and has the loudest car horns in the world. However they have been exhorted to use them in the days of lockdown as taxis still operate in the city.

Thursday 21/01/2021: Lastly for this short LOG and for all those worried about Covid around the world perhaps it would be advisable to make sure you have the best PPE dress available as recommended by supermarkets. Next time you venture out shopping for essential supplies wear the latest protective clothing.

That's all. Happiness is a state of mind, sardines and red-hot peppers. Love to all from Cathy and Spencer.

IN THE FACE OF ADVERSITY

Friday 01/01/2021: Another year. Where has 2020 gone? I know there has been a considerable time gap in the log but have been trying to get re-organised back in Mexico and being hindered by lock down regulations. The country is experiencing a surge in cases like elsewhere in the world. I have not wished anybody Happy Christmas or New Year and I am sorry. I was hit hard by my mother's death. I wish you all the best in the next year and thanks so much for the messages about my Mum. You guys and girls have been an incredible help.

Sunday 03/01/2021: Just heard that an event held not far from where we are is to go ahead as usual. What? Covid won't stop an annual nudist festival as organizers of the Oaxaca event have promised to observe all health protocols. The Zipolite Nudist Festival - put on by the Mexican Nudists' Federation - has taken place in the coastal municipality of San Pedro Pochutla for six years on Mexico's only legal nudist beach. The event attracts as many as 8,000 people. This year it will run from January 29th to February 1st but will not be a massive event and organizers would make sure visitors comply with health protocols, both on and off the beach.

Wednesday 06/01/2021: You may remember I had a scorpion in my bike ignition and a snake in my shower. This morning, the fellow in the pic, the length of my hand, was waiting to pounce, in the shower which they seem to frequent. Nothing like a clean hit. No more washing for me. Cathy Nel removed him (Humphrey is his name) expertly, like a real Jane Bond. I would have done it of course but if I even look at a Scorpion I go into Anaphylactic shock. The local ladies spotted Cathy with Humphrey and they asked if they could have him to put in a bottle of Mezcal, a local tradition. Sorry Humphrey, you died from alcohol poisoning and it's Cathy's fault.

Cathy also recently saved a tortoise, or land turtle as they are called here, (tortuga de la tierra) that had fallen into a culvert. He had a similar happy fate as the locals just went 'Yum-tortillas'

Friday 08/01/2021: It is difficult to keep fit now as the gym is closed and running along the beach is frowned upon by the friendly Police, and one must obey the Covid regulations, so have devised a weight training programme with new equipment. Workout lifting panniers, increasing the weight on a regular basis, push and pull and lift equipment. Do repetitions and repeat twice daily. Also wear suitable clothing to maximise effort.

Sunday 10/01/2021: Came across a couple of signs that seem to be contradictory but amusing. Not unusual to find such on one's travels so have posted two here and a couple more pics on the photo archive. One of these should carry a warning, 'Do Not Read' and the other, 'Ask for Explanation'.

Monday 11/01/2021: Recently was invited, with Cathy, to be interviewed on Adventure Rider Radio along with other biking nutters. Jim asked us to give three tips to adventurers on what you should know before you go as stated.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO - More Top Tips From Experienced Travellers - Part 2

Seasoned travellers share their best travel tips and advice. Lessons learned on the road that you need to know before you go. This is part TWO of a TWO part series, each featuring different travellers with a vast array of advice. In this episode we hear from world travellers, Spencer Conway and Cathy Nel, Steph Jeavons and Tiffany Coates. < CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO THE SHOW ONLINE >

SAD DAYS

Friday 14/12/2020: LOOKING BACK

As many of you know my lovely mother died recently and today was her funeral so I would just like to share with you the Eulogy that my father wrote in her memory. I and my brother will never forget her and we have received over 2000 messages from around the world commenting on her beauty, talent and kindness.

Funeral Speech: My wife Wendy was a truly remarkable person in every way. She was born in 1942 when the Second World War was disrupting normal relationships. Her paternal grandmother cared for her until she was eleven years old during which time she attended Dulwich Prep School as her mother had had become estranged from her husband. She ran away several times in search of her mother, finally joined her, and attended Sydenham Girls High School where she became Head Girl. At sixteen she began work in an advertising agency and was a front line model for several promotions for health and beauty products. She then became the personal secretary to Robert Conquest, historian and poet, and friend of Kingsley Amis and Philip Larkin. She would have continued assisting him but at nineteen she rekindled friendship with me. I had first met her at the age of fourteen when our paths crossed in Dulwich and where we married at the age of 20. I was then at Leeds University but Wendy remained in Dulwich, back with her grandmother, and within two years had Simon and Spencer. That's the way things go when two young people love each other. We only met occasionally during those years when I could escape from Leeds and hitch to London.

Wendy's real personality and talents were revealed when I volunteered as a teacher with the Ministry Of Overseas Development and we were posted to Kenya in 1966. Our arrival in Kenya was not very auspicious as I was taken aside when the officials learnt that I was to be a teacher. I was informed that my hair was too long and it had to be cut. Also Wendy needed to wear a longer skirt. It was the age of The Mini! I was taken to a side room where a pair of garden shears was used to shed me of my locks. Wendy found a longer dress and, with smiles, we were allowed to go, with thanks, for coming to teach Kenyan students. With two very young children of three, and one, we lived in an African wattle hut for one year without hot water or electricity in a small town called Machakos. Wendy was not dismayed, her only fear was that of spiders, although we had giraffe and zebra wandering on the perimeter of the school where I was teaching. She began to encourage the local and ex-patriate community to engage in drama, craft production and various other social activities. She also started a primary school and with a trained teacher organised and taught a racial mix of children that included our sons. She was non-stop energy, floating around in colourful dresses and became a well-known actress at the Nairobi National theatre.

After 4 years in Kenya we returned to the UK so that I could take a further Degree and Wendy external studies at London University. I was asked if I would like to go to Swaziland for a four year contract and we packed our bags and flew out. Frankly we could not financially manage in the UK with a mortgage and two growing boys. Wendy quickly became well known in Mbabane, the thriving and lively capital. Swaziland Theatre was her home where she shone as an actress, writer and director. Richard E Grant was a friend, although younger, but already on his way to being an A list actor. They trod the same boards and she took the lead in 'Cats', 'Joseph', as Mrs Potiphar, dressed in a rather revealing and erotic costume which caused a stir. A top director cast her as Lady Macbeth and she appeared in Greek tragedies and Oscar Wilde classics. She directed 'Whose Life is it Anyway?' and adapted Romeo and Juliet for an all African cast. Wendy was incredibly artistic and created spectacular tapestries and art work. She started a craft society and through this raised money for Medecins Sans Frontieres.

As there was a need for trained government secretaries and typists she founded a business along with her friend, Helen Dear, named 'Expertype' and ran this for three years. The office was in the town and during a spell of riots both were trapped for two days whilst riot Police used tear gas and rubber bullets to quell the disgruntled workers. 'Expertype' is still a thriving secretarial school.

At the end of my contract we once more returned to the UK and I attended London University for an MA in Overseas Development sponsored by ODA in order to send me back to Swaziland, as an education Advisor to the Ministry Of Education. After one year we were back there with Simon and Spencer where Wendy became involved in more creative areas and of course reinvigorated others. She also started to write more frequently and penned short stories and magazine articles. MacMillan South Africa published a short story anthology and two of these are included in her book 'Mind the Raven' published last year and now in The British Library. She stipulated that proceeds from sales should go to 'Medecins Sans Frontieres'. People came to love and admire her in Swaziland for her humour, creativity, kindness and ability to welcome and engage with everyone.

The next episode in Wendy's life was in The Seychelles, which she did not find stimulating as she was not a sand, sea and sun person. Nevertheless, being who she is, she turned it into a positive. She started children's TV and scripted, directed and presented a daily thirty minute programme with exciting and dramatic stories with colourful backdrops and pictures. It became one of the most popular programmes and families sat together to watch Seychellois children engage in fun activities and listen to stories read by Wendy in her flamboyant style. Whilst recording one programme she glimpsed a rather gruesome spider and screamed, 'Spider' throwing a microphone in the air. It is still on tape. After two years she turned up to the studio to be told that she had been replaced by a Minister's wife and was no longer required. End of the Seychelles for Wendy. I had two more years of a contract and had to stay whilst Wendy hopped on a plane and returned to the UK. That's life. By this time both Simon and Spencer had completed degrees at Universities, Simon in England and Spencer in Scotland and were making their own way in life. No more attraction for Wendy in The Seychelles, including me, so off to the homeland.

The rest is Biddenden. Wendy purchased The Malt House, and at a loss started a B and B almost immediately. I did not see the house till I came home six months later to a house of guests and Wendy presenting them with breakfast fit for royalty. Over her twenty years of this she made friends around the world and many come back to stay not as guests but as genuine friends. Not content, a tea room was opened in the garden and The Malt House Ladies was also started. A successful venture that created a super group of ladies who discussed interesting and various topics. Lastly, she taught drama at Christ Church University, Canterbury and enthused Malaysian trainee teachers with her love of language and theatre. Many have sent sympathy messages and thanks for her enthusiastic teaching.

Wendy dearly loved her sons, and sometimes me, and her granddaughters, and has inspired them to follow paths to higher education and to be kind and understanding.

Messages from around the world continue to arrive saying how Wendy changed their lives and outlook on life and for several gave them the will to live. In death she wanted to help the living and donated organs for research and recipients. That was Wendy.

Thursday11/12/2020: Have flown back to Mexico, with a heavy heart, but I need to continue adventure riding. Have managed to get spares for the bike with the help of Craig Carey Clinch and had no problem at customs. Flew with Bernard Ziega who is going to make a TV programme of me riding through The Andes. The photo shows the easy part of the challenge.

Bernard is a documentary programme maker who I met several years ago at one of the adventure shows in the UK so I am very pleased that he is with me here and will be giving Cathy help with producing professional footage for You Tube and other outlets. He set up a pic at the airport when leaving the UK at Heathrow.

Tuesday 15/12/2020: Back to Escondido and old routine. Bike with mechanic and hopefully will be back on the road in the next few days, although one can never say for certain. Have spotted a couple of 'inventions' that might amuse and lift the gloom a little. Covid is an ongoing problem in Mexico but does not hinder the artistic and inventive talent of the people.



Friday 18/12/2020: Have just done an interview on Adventure Rider Radio Canada with Jim Martin. Was asked to talk about the three most important things to prepare for before going on a long adventure.

Wednesday23/12/2020: Nothing much to report, The bike is still in the workshop and have been helping with re-fits. Must get back n the road asap but Covid prevents leaving this district!! In the meantime have the use of the new Kawasaki Jaguar bike.

Now near Christmas and not a happy one this year but to all hope you have had a good one and a better 2021.

Spencer.

A DAY TO REMEMBER OUR MOTHER



As many know my lovely mother died on the 14th of this month so I post this in her memory.

There have been over one thousand five hundred messages of sympathy from around the world recognising her as a truly remarkable person of many talents. She was an actress, artist, writer, teacher and business woman. She had boundless charisma and inspired and helped too many to mention, including us. Her warmth and kindness will always be remembered and live on in our hearts forever. We have lost a dearly beautiful soul. My brother and I are so, so sad and devastated.

Some photos of aspects of her life are below.




Her funeral is on Friday 4th of December at 2pm and will be on zoom for any who wish to be part of the service.

You can attend by using the Zoom ID Code: 852 6105 8468 «FOLLOWING THIS LINK» and input the Passcode 865683. Further instructions will be explained in your browser if you should need assistance to download and install the app to gain access.

ALWAYS

Always my heart will beat for you,
Always my love will remain with you,
And always the pain I feel will deepen as the days go by,
But always and always the way you were, always, will comfort me.
You always cared for others and how they felt,
And always ready with a smile and kindly word,
And I wasn't always there to help you in times of trials and trouble,
And not always there to hold your hand,
But I always cherished you and as you blossomed,
And your beauty glowed, it always made me love you more, Always.
And now you've gone I miss you more each day and always will,
If you could be here for one fleeting moment I would make you know,
How always you were my heart and soul, ALWAYS.

Composed by Michael Conway DO WE HAVE A CHOICE?

Sunday 01/11/2020: We are in Mexico City as at last I have managed to get a referral for hospital treatment for the painful affliction to my important lower regions and kidney stones both of which are causing considerable discomfort and pain. The hospital I am booked into is in Oaxaca but have to fly there later today via Mexico City as no direct flights from Escondido. The Doctors' names at Chum Hospital ! are Flores, Flores, Flores and Flower which seem a little pantomimesque.

More news on this later but in the meantime some info on the Day of the Dead.

As celebrations were to be held this weekend but are cancelled due to coronavirus, however a number of events are moving online, including a concert by renowned singer Lila Downs. In addition, a documentary honouring the dead will be shown on TV, filmed in Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca. The celebration arose from two separate Aztec Day of the Dead harvest festivals.

The first festival honoured the "little dead" children who had died during the ninth month of the Aztec calendar, known as Tlaxochimaco. The second festival was the great commemoration of the Dead, which occurred in the tenth month, Huey Miccailhuitl.

When the Spaniards came to Mexico and introduced Catholicism to the indigenous people they blended traditions and beliefs to create their own customs. The church rejected the Aztec's beliefs and turned it into All Saints' Day and All Souls' Day. Mexicans have since transformed it into a truly unique holiday that they hold every year making it a highly colourful spectacle. Families will gather during the night at the cemeteries (panteons), light candles, and place flowers on the burial sites of their lost loved ones. There is festive music and definitely no crying or grieving. This is a reflective and lively get-together welcoming the deceased to celebrate life and enjoy all human things again.

Tuesday 03/11/2020: Yesterday not one to remember. The hospital 'treatment' did not go well. Despite the fact that I had had scans and x-rays in Escondido the surgeon did not have copies. The scans had revealed stones in the bladder and kidneys but at the hospital there were no tests or scans. Tubes and cameras were inserted but the surgeon said there were no stones in the urethra. Did not check the kidneys!!! Result nothing done and asked for 25000. I refused to pay and threatened to call the police. The hospital settled for 6000. Still in pain and down. Cathy also very unwell and did not trust the hospital for treatment after my experience. Not sure what to do now. Looks like the whole of Mexico has hundreds of doctors and dentists with dubious qualifications.

Thursday 05/11/2020: Back in Escondido and Guy Fawkes' day in the UK. I understand that parties banned under the latest lockdown regulations as was the Day of the Dead cancelled in Mexico. Whilst in Oaxaca Cathy took some photos so have some below and more on the archive. Have a look as should be of interest. Two or three museums in the city but all closed which was a pity. The exteriors are as colourful as other aspects of Mexico. Maidstone museum doesn't have the same appeal. Also many streets have a picaresque attraction.

Over the past months it has been reported that there is a cat thief at large in the south of England leaving many distressed owners whose beloved felines have mysteriously disappeared. Oaxaca has the same problem and people are being warned to guard against the cat burglars. People have organised a rapid response team to apprehend the catprits.

Saturday 07/11/2020: Lastly Trump is refusing to go and is struggling to use social media to publish more fake news. The only avenue he has for this is to commandeer exterior communication channels.

Keep the wolves from the door. They are making a comeback. Love from Cathy and Spencer.

REVIEWING THE SITUATION

Wednesday 21/10/2020: It is difficult to make the Log interesting at this moment in time as all around the world most are in lockdown and not being able to carry on with normal activity. We are in the same position and our life is on hold more so as police are being vigilant and have authority to arrest anyone not wearing a mask, or for any infringement of regulations. Don't wish to spend time in jail as it is not a pleasant experience. Have recently been stopped by police and asked for proof of permission to be in Mexico. Relaxed atmosphere has changed and there is a feeling of uncertainty for us and the local community, but people still friendly and welcoming wherever we go, which is not far. Mixed messages are being published frequently so does not make for clarity. Covid security has hit the beach. Mexico is such an exotic and interesting country. We will survive and carry on.

Thursday 22/10/2020: To lift the gloom just a couple of things to raise a smile, hopefully. As you know we had planned to attempt a crossing of the Darien gap but closed borders prevented it. We have not given up the idea and have been investigating means of travel and have been advised to try the option in the pic below. Might make it, you never know. Secondly have found a notice which seems relevant in some ways to current state of the world.

Friday 23/10/2020: BREAKING NEWS... Looks as if a vaccine has been found for Covid-19 - Unbelievable!!! It has been proudly heralded by our old 'friend' President Maduro of Venezuela. He announced on Sunday that the Venezuelan Institute for Scientific Investigations (IVIC) has successfully tested a molecule, DR10, which is used for hepatitis C, to treat covid-19. This study lasted six months, resulting in the annihilation of 100% of the virus. ''Venezuela has 'obtained' a drug that cancels 100% of the coronavirus," he told state television. According to Nicolás Maduro, the "study was certified, with all the necessary tests" and in the coming days Venezuela "will proceed through the World Health Organization, to ratify the results obtained". Incredible news and I mean INCREDIBLE!

Monday 26/10/2020: Coming up this weekend 31/10/2020 is the famous Day of the Dead spectacle. Not so well know is another colourful celebration as on every second Sunday in November thousands of concheros from across central Mexico gather for their pilgrimage to Villa Guadalupe. This annual event has ancient pre-Hispanic and Catholic roots.

Concheros are traditional musicians and dancers who are only found in Mexico's central states where the Aztec and Chichimeca civilizations once flourished. Concheros play stringed instruments called conchas, wear colourful skirts and capes that have an image of the Virgin Mary or an indigenous god on the back. It's believed the celebrations were begun in about 1531. There are several dance groups who attend but the Danzas Aztecas is probably the most easily recognized since they can be seen dancing in Mexico City's Plaza del Zócalo, the main square in central Mexico City. Prior to the colonial period, it was the ceremonial centre in the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan.

The dancers wear large feathered headdresses, have seeds from the ayoyote tree strapped to their ankles and dance to the pounding of the huehuétl, an indigenous drum. Other groups are the Danzas Guerreros, who paint their bodies black, and the Kikapoos, whose dress is like that of the Plains Indians from the United States. This is yet another cultural event which makes Mexico so dramatic and exciting. (Pic by Neils Henriksen)

Thursday 29/10/2020: Latest on transportation of our DHL Package. The following incredible people and bikers went out of their way to get cameras and spares to us in Mexico. Most importantly I received epipen adrenaline injections also, as I am not keen on dying again. They are San Fzm, Cesar Bermudez and Fernando from Motorad Angels Mexico who brought the cameras from Oaxaca City to us.

Thanks to Kate Cerridwen who received them in Oaxaca. Thanks to Victor @sterlingxperience and Maria @majorgrajeda of @badlander_moto who brought the cameras from Guatemala to Mexico. Thanks to Monica Garzaro Scott and Cx Scott for receiving our stuff and dealing with DHL (Drop it, Hide it, Lose it). And to Michael Conway for sending all in the first place. You guys got our stuff from UK to Mexico after eight month's delay. Respect and love and garlic prawns to all from me and happy Cathy Nel. As if that is not enough, another good friend Craig Carey-Cinch is sourcing bike parts in UK.

Expect photos and a YouTube Channel and Documentary soon. Have a great day. Love humans! and chillies Cathy and Spencer.

KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON

Wednesday 14/10/2020: Wish we could carry on but looks as if the Tenere is finally giving up as a major overhaul is required after 160000 ks. It has been through every terrain known to animals and beasts, us, in its time, and needs transplants but it is proving difficult to carry out operations as spares are unavailable. Very problematic as the bike was converted from a 660 to a 700 in Chile by Dakar mechanic, Ignacio Bilbao, so suppliers bemused by this hybrid machine.

Friday 16/10/2020: The latest Covid-19 situation here is that tourism should not be affected in the municipality, which includes part of the resort town of Puerto Escondido, and the mayor says he has not considered closing beaches, restaurants or bars. Nevertheless there are few tourists here and it is not the case in the neighbouring municipality of Santa María Colotepec, which also includes parts of Puerto Escondido. Last week, the municipal government announced 13 new coronavirus regulations that will remain in place for the rest of the month due to "a large scale outbreak of positive Covid-19 cases in the area."

Beaches and bars have been closed, the sale of alcohol banned, and restaurants and hotels can only operate at 20% of capacity, are some of the preventative measures. A foreign visitor in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, did not have a good experience when police arrested and jailed him on Saturday for not wearing a face mask. His experience was far from joyful. Others have also been jailed!! Looks as if our forced stay here will become more restrictive.

Sunday18/10/2020: Been doing some more research into the history of Mexico back to the time of its colonisation by Hernan Cortes. Cortés conquered the Aztecs on August 13, 1521, after Tenochtitlán, the monumental Mexican capital constructed on a lake, had been starved into submission during a week-long siege, and Cuauhtémoc, the Aztec emperor, was forced to surrender. Hernán Cortés de Monroy y Pizarro Altamirano, became the 1st Marquess of the Valley of Oaxaca, which is the area where Cathy and I are staying, and was one of a band of Spanish Conquistadors who led an expedition that caused the fall of the Aztec Empire. Actually when Cortes had landed he scuttled his fleet of ships to prevent retreat. Large portions of what is now mainland Mexico came under the rule of the King of Castile.

I have also learnt that there are conflicting views on the conquest of much of Central America as some have demanded an apology from the Spanish Government for the brutality of the Conquistadors and destruction of Aztec culture, whilst others suggest that the Spanish added to the heritage of Mexico through religion, art and architecture.

Monday 19/10/2020: Just thought I would mention that Cathy is adopting Mexican costume looking the part in her new outfit. But also have to say that this image has not deterred her from being the intrepid adventurer.

Smiling even with the threat of crocs in the bush and a four foot snake discovered in the bathroom, now hiding out somewhere in the woodwork. The snake, not Cathy.

Came across a pic that might amuse to cheer people up. Check it out in the Photo Archive... no animals harmed in this speedy bike ride. Thanks to noted creator.

Recently the wonderful Janet Forbes-Walker had her 100 year birthday and a copy of my book and DVD and a pillion ride with her grandson were requested! All was achieved. From Cathy and myself hope you had a Happy Birthday. What an inspiration you are Janet.

Lastly for information to travellers be very careful on the roads as Mexico has a unique method of road drainage. CLICK HERE FOR THE PROOF »

Keep smiling and eat plenty of cockles to give you muscles. Cathy and Spencer.

BEWARE CROCODILES

Tuesday 06/10/2020: Must start this log with a snippet of news from the area we live in near Escondido. A crocodile measuring over a meter and a half long was captured in the community of Bajos de Chila, about 15 minutes from our place.

The reptile had been attacking farm animals so the farmer reported this to the authorities as it had already eaten some chickens and he was afraid that it would start killing his sheep and goats. Officials found the croc, which weighed more than 60 kilos, after draining a pool where it had taken up residence and it was captured and released into its natural habitat, mangrove swamps, in an unpopulated area.

In Oaxaca, crocodiles occasionally come into contact with people. Last November A fisherman was attacked by a crocodile while taking a nap on the Boca Barra beach, just south of Puerto Escondido, suffering lacerations to his arm, leg and head. There have been ten attacks on humans in Mexico this year, with one fatality. In May, a four-year-old boy was dragged off by a crocodile in San Blas, Nayarit. The crocodile was located and shot in order to recover the child's lifeless body.

A local inhabitant, Janitzio Ramos, photographed several crocs sunbathing on the beaches of La Ventanilla. Nature fighting back as the beach has been closed to tourists for several weeks to avoid the spread of the coronavirus.

We did see a croc some weeks ago near a swamp but from now on will avoid the area. Don't fancy being a croc breakfast.

Thursday 08/10/2020: Couple of interesting things recently seen and experienced which might amuse. Came alongside a bike with the latest form of registration in Mexico. Wouldn't go down well in many parts of the world. And also would be frowned upon is a local food delight. Not really to my taste or for others I should think.

Saturday 10/10/2020: As you know we are surviving on a beach in Escondido which, when without covid restrictions operative' is a surfer's resort but I would just like to draw your attention to alternative attractions in Mexico other than the well-known.

A good number of years ago the Government created the 'Pueblos Mágicos' programme to recognize places across the country that have customs and traditions of particular appeal. A "Magical Village" is a place with symbolism, legends, history, important events, festivals, great food, and enjoyable shopping, in other words, "magic" in its social and cultural manifestations.

Every Pueblo Magico offers a special experience to the visitor. It is intended to increase tourism to more localities, especially smaller towns in rural areas. By 2012 a total of 83 towns and villages in all 31 states have been awarded the title of Pueblo Mágico. For those seeking to savour a different aspect of Mexico and to get closer to the people one should seek out a Magical Village. Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula is one such of five in Oaxaca where the main attraction is the former Temple of San Pedro and San Pablo which for many years was a church. It has also been a library, a school, a military headquarter, a newspaper archive, a cafe, a warehouse and, currently, a museum. It is architecturally superb.

Sunday 11/10/2020: Not far from our habitation is a Pool Parlour which is usually full of players but recently been taken over by new patrons. High bets at stake! The only observer is a young girl who hides away as she is a secret smoker. Very crafty.

Monday 12/10/2020: You may remember that several months ago DHL was asked to send a package with cameras and medical supplies form the UK to Mexico but it was returned to the UK as it needed a 'Sanitation' certificate to be allowed into the country. It was resent but this time to Guatemala where Cathy and I were headed. We could not get there as the border was closed. Friends sent it on to Mexico but customs insisted that it did not have the correct clearance so it was sent back to Guatemala!!!

The latest is that some biker friends were coming from there to Mexico and they offered to bring the goods with them. They have deposited them in Oaxaca where we will pick them up soon as we go there for medical treatment. The couple are Maria and Victor who got in touch to ask to use one of my photos for their site, Badlander Motorcycles. They were going to Vera Cruz but changed route for me and went to Oaxaca.

An American lady, Jennifer, answered my Facebook request and received the parcel! Super people and lovely covid protected cat. Thanks a million buddies and fried beans go with you.

Sorry to go on about package saga! Thought I'd let you know of problems of travel and another. lost that contact lens again! Till next time, if I find it. Chips and chillies Cathy and Spencer..

THE LIFE WE LIVE

Tuesday 22/09/2020: I HAD TO EJECT A RUDE AND AGGRESSIVE CLIENT FROM MEXICAN IMMIGRATION. CATHY AND I PROMPTLY RECEIVED A SIX MONTH EXTENSION TO OUR VISAS.

I do not recommend this tactic. A 'visitor' to Mexico was swearing and shouting at the super relaxed Immigration Officers. I decided to let him know that his manners were below par. He decided to attack me. The Security Guard made Tom Cruise look like a Giant and he had biceps like knots in cotton so I gave him a hand, (understated), with the eviction. All ended well and we are legal! So went for a slippery ride to celebrate and in the midst of mud had to clear the chocolate tread.

Thursday 24/09/2020: Saw a 'patterned' Mercedes on the road and discovered that it was a Mercedes-Benz G-Class all-terrain vehicle painted with iconography and colours inspired by alebrije art.

It was created by Jacobo and María Ángeles, artists from San Martín Tilcajete, about 30 kilometers from the capital city of Oaxaca. The company provided the vehicle and it was on a trip through Mexico to promote the G-class model, one of the granddaddies of all-terrain and sport utility vehicles, first offered for sale in 1979. Alebrije art is distinctive folk art that originated in both Mexico City and Oaxaca made of either papier-mache or carved from wood.

Sunday 27/09/2020: From afar spied a strange beast moving sideways along a tarred road. Approaching rapidly realised it was a 'take away' delivery of a steak and lettuce sandwich.

Tuesday 29/09/2020: To continue culinary theme on my way to fishing spot came across a confusing sign. Going to contact Confused.Com for explanation. Actually 5ks!

Had a successful day as reeled in a super cool red snapper for breakfast one of the world's best fish. Succulent white meat with delicate flavour. Add salt pepper and lemon or for a more zesty recipe chop up tomato, onion, chilli, garlic, lemon and coriander. Cut three slits on each side diagonally and stuff with the marinade. Wrap in silver foil and put on the braai (barbecue). Open it up for the last ten minutes. In this way it stays juicy but gets the braai taste.

Thursday 01/10/2020: Another month..! We are nearly Mexican. My Yamaha is no longer attracting attention as the company is marketing a bike more in keeping with the art of this colourful country. Can't compete. Also a joyous and exotic experience is to wander around market stalls. Bit more appealing than the one in Maidstone.

Friday 02/10/2020: THE TESTICLE TRIP IS ON. I have clearance to ride 600 kilometres through the mountains of Oaxaca Mexico, climbing 1550 metres to have my vegetable cut open in Oaxaca City Hospital. (I might return a lot lighter!) You may remember I flew off my bike braking with my jewels. One has been swollen for six months and it's not the best cushion on the bike. Enough is enough. The bike is also sick and sounds like a 1930's tractor. But I have Cathy Nel and her new 'pet'.

Don't measure your achievements with other people's rulers. I never fail. I just find 10,000 ways that don't work. Have a wonderful weekend all and as always Peace, Love and Coelacanth Pie to all from Cathy and I. (Google that one!)

Some of you have remarked about my appearance recently so just to show I haven't really changed that much see pic of Happy Times when not so frustrated with delays and lockdowns. (Actually pic taken sometime ago!)

Click here to have a look at Photo Gallery as some up to date pics posted >

The biggest adventure you can have is to fight for the life of your dreams

GOT TO GET OUT OF THIS PLACE!

Monday 14/09/2020: Doesn't look as if we will get out of here for a considerable time so taking the opportunity to attempt some local riding avoiding habitation as much as pos as Police not happy with people travelling without good reason. Quite right, and we do obey the rules and regs by following little used routes. Cars not allowed on certain 'roads', as in the pic, and also quite an effort on the Tenere.

We made it through for about 20ks and found ourselves at the end of the track and into the outskirts of settlement by a clinic that did not appear to be functioning! Or maybe it did, who knows?

On the way back managed to get lost and make our way through thick undergrowth. Luckily on a section had to stop and found what I'm pretty sure was an mapanare curled up in the grass. Great fellow and oblivious to our inspection.



Wednesday 16/09/2020: Many times on our trips we have seen bikers and bikes with loads that cause us to smile or be amazed. In Africa it is not uncommon for four or even five people balancing on a bike weaving through traffic in towns. They are also used to carry huge loads of produce or construction equipment and recently saw a biker just about to set off on a world trip with all his personal possessions. Hope he makes it!

Came across a photo of two maidens probably on their way to the supermarket. Apologies for the use of the pic.

Thursday 16/09/2020: My brother Simon reminded me that when in Swaziland we wandered off into the bush on our way to nowhere. We were 'lighties'. Now come across Albert and his cats leaving home making for the Mozambican border. Another adventurous 'lighty'.

Saturday 19/09/2020: Thought I would mention more about the artistic Mexico as it has attracted many painters, sculptors and writers from the Americas and Europe but it has also held a strong fascination for Japanese artists as well. One such is Akio Hanafuji who has a unique take on the traditional cultures of Chiapas struggling to survive in the modern world.

Mexico is well known for its love of depicting traditional scenes on murals and from muralism Akio learned about Mexico's heritage of depicting the country's folk lore, as well as many stylistic and technical elements, from artists like Diego Rivera.

He has captured the essence of Mexico's poorer regions, Chiapas, Guerrero, and Oaxaca in his work in a variety of styles. An example of his work is a section of 'Fiesta Spiritual' a large mural echoing Mexican tradition with a refreshing outlook.

Sunday 20/09/2020: As we can't get out of this place some plans for the future, all being well!! If I remain injury free and the World gets better, I will be on the main stage at this amazing Festival, performing a traditional Eswatini dance.

No, not really - it's all things adventure and travel. I had a neck brace fitted last year and I have never looked back since. Please come along and have a chat and a Shark Samosa. I will also be launching my new book on the insanely chaotic circumnavigation of South and Central America. (The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat). The biggest bonus is that Cathy Nel will also be there, loitering with in-tent. Love and respect to all of you and to the 643 Facebook friends already booked and 1400 'interested' - it will be cool to catch up in the real world for a change!

I used to tell Apocalypse jokes like there was no tomorrow but its bad taste now. Good luck one and all with the rest of this dodgy year! Spencer and Cathy.

MEXICO MATTERS

This log is to keep readers in touch with things Mexican as Cathy and I are rather static, as you know, since lock down has us in its grip. Limited movement only so not much in the way of adventure riding and only short trips inland where possible. The info below is on matters Mexican, our home now for five months.

Monday 07/09/2020: As we are in Oaxaca not far from the High Mixteca region I thought that Magic Mushrooms might be of interest as they are abundant at this time of year. These wild mushrooms spring up every rainy season in the forests and are a highly valued food source, prized for their medicinal qualities and also used in sacred rituals. Some 250 different species of mushrooms, including poisonous ones, grow in the High Mixteca, ranging from tiny specimens to true giants. Some have curious colloquial names such as the hongo de aguacate, or avocado mushroom, and the yema de huevo, or egg yolk, so named due to its golden yellow colour. One variety is the Psilocybe-mexicana, more commonly known as a 'magic mushroom'. Here in Mexico it's been used for 3,000 years for sacred and medicinal purposes and was called teonan·catl (god fungus) by the Aztecs. They are considered sacred medicine among indigenous tribes, having been used extensively in the past in religious and spiritual ceremonies, especially in Central and South America.

In the 1960s young people from the States flocked to the village of Huautla de Jiménez in Oaxaca's Sierra Mazateca to see a curandera (healer) named María Sabina who was an expert in the use of these mushrooms. Celebrities, John Lennon, Mick Jagger and Bob Dylan, visited to experiment with the 'drug'. María Sabina Magdalena Garcíía became known as the 'priestess of mushrooms,' and is the most famous Mexican healer to date.

She was of the Mazatec ethnic group and was born in 1894. She came from a small town called Huautla de Jiménez, in the Sierra de Oaxaca, located in southern Mexico. Her father's family had already included several shamans. From a very young age, contact with them made her familiar with the region's traditional ceremonies, which included the intake of hallucinogenic mushrooms, known as "holy children" as a method of contact with divinity. She first tried the mushrooms at the age of eight and developed a knowledge of their healing power attributed to these mushrooms. Among the Mazatec people, the most common healing method, prior to the colonial period, was the ritual intake of fungi of Mexican Psilocybe which grows only in a particular mountain range. When visited by someone with a physical or spiritual condition, Sabina served as a guide on the patient's journey to spiritual realms. It is reported that this mushroom typically changes people in a good way and there are medical studies suggesting that people suffering fits of depression can find temporary relief from the affliction. If covid continues might have to take to mushrooms...

Wednesday 09/09/2020: Many tourists who visit Mexico are delighted by the variety and attractive craft works that are displayed on street stalls and in markets so some background to this art form may be of interest.

Mexico has a very rich and interesting culture. The mix of early indigenous and later Spanish influences has made for a colourful heritage in many artistic fields. In Oaxaca this is very evident in handcrafts and folk art.

Mexican handcrafts and folk art is a mix of items made with various materials and fashioned for utilitarian, decorative or other purposes, such as wall hangings, vases, toys and artefacts created for celebrations, festivities and religious rites.[1] These arts and crafts are collectively called "artesanía" in Mexican Spanish. The word is used to describe traditional products and has its foundations in the crafts of the many pre-Hispanic cultures, like the Zapotec Mask pictured.

500 years of European influence has transformed it into a melange of the two cultures and unique to Mexico. Artesanía can be defined as those items created by 'common people' using traditional methods which are well-founded in the past. Most artisans do not have school-based training in their craft, but rather learn it through formal or informal apprenticeship.

The term "common people" in Mexico generally applies to people native to rural areas and those outside the upper and middle classes. Artesanía is heavily tied to national as well as indigenous identities. From the early 20th century to the present day, Mexican folk art has inspired famous artists such as Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo and José Clemente Orozco, branching out into a variety of styles. One example is the mural by Rivera.

Friday 11/09/2020: Lastly just to prove that I am still in the land of the living before being zapped by a violent storm. A storm brewing in your life? Be strong. The person you will definitely spend the rest of your life with is yourself. Make the most of it. Waking up each day is an eye opening experience!! Write your own story.

Incredible to be on the move a bit. Posts might be a bit more exciting from now on. Latin America is top class. and Mexico matters to both of us.

As usual, big love and goat cheek stew to all you guys and girls from me and the elusive snapper Cathy.

AT A STANDSTILL

Thursday 27/08/2020: Hello everyone. Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana.

Less than ten people get killed by coconuts each year, although I doubt many are reported. We have had heavy rain and coconuts and palm fronds falling near the bike, but not on it, luckily. I do park in posh places sometimes!

It has been confirmed that as well as cross eyed in this photo, I am also colour blind. My daughters always teased me about it so the news was not completely out of the green.

Saturday29/08/2020: As you know we are in the region of Oaxaca which is in south west Mexico and is the area inhabited by the Zapotec people who were a pre-Columbian civilisation active mainly from 700 BC to 1500 AD.

They still continue to live in small villages in the region. Archaeological evidence suggests that their culture originated at least 2,500 years ago around the ancient city of Monte Albán. They built magnificent tombs and in the ruins grave goods, including finely worked gold jewellery, have been discovered. Monte Albán was one of the first major cities in Mesoamerica.

Life in Oaxaca continues to impress and during this time of hardship the Zapotec people, mentioned above, maintain their traditional life in a few areas. From a young age they join in communal labour brigades to complete projects that can range from painting a school to repairing roads.

They live in relative isolation from the general Mexican society, growing food in their milpas, or garden plot, and police their own communities with volunteers called topiles. They rely on community trust and have a history of self-rule that predates the Spanish Conquest. They neither need, nor allow, much outside access to their villages. Isolation and self-reliance are all beneficial in a pandemic. The villagers have ensured that no one goes hungry by increasing corn harvesting used to make tortillas and also catch Chapulines, grasshoppers, toasting them as a protein-rich food. On special occasions Zapotec women dress in traditional costumes to preserve their culture. Rather than closing their doors to family and friends the Zapotec aim to stop Covid-19 from getting into the villages at all.

Tuesday 01/09/2020: Another month. The sculpture of a man with a burden in the pic is by Jens Galshiot. It is symbolic of many in the world struggling to carry on with their lives. The bronze sculpture was made in 2002 and depicts a huge woman sitting on the shoulders of a starved boy. The woman is holding a pair of scales, as a symbol of justice, but her eyes are closed - a reference to the traditional depiction of Lady Justice wearing a blindfold suggesting that justice is degenerating into a self-righteous unwillingness to see an obvious wrong. Makes one realise that here Cathy and I are at a standstill in Mexico and the endeavour to continue adventure riding is on hold we are still fortunate to be able to look forward to a future and better prospects.

Following on from the above I have also a take on the world looking to the acceptance of all colours and cultures by symbolising it with a 'Hand of Colours.' Does it need explanation?

Thursday 03/09/2020: Have managed to get out of the immediate area for some riding to allay boredom. Local people are attempting to lead a normal existence and carry on with daily activities. We rode out of Zicatela for some distance but the recent storms had caused flooding on some of the dirt roads and nearly led to a disaster!!

Trying to get the bike through some fairly deep water, Cathy dismounted, I lost a flip flop. A prized possession of great antiquity!! Designer made!! Consequently had to go fishing for it and promptly lost the other one. After hours of searching, about five minutes, found both so disaster averted. Lesson. Don't ride in flip flops for obvious reasons.

Lastly Cathy has decided to go independent so has acquired a bike to pop into Zicatela so she can buy what she wants free of my interference. Seems a good solution to avoid arguments and provides us with a bit of freedom. The supermarket has more exotic produce than Tesco and the small shops are full of colourful regalia.

Saturday 05/09/2020: The best things in life are free. The second best things are really expensive. Don't call it a dream, call it a plan. I have always tried my best not to let my life be disrupted by routine. So far it's working. I don't know where I am going but I am on my way.

Do not ride without the gear please. You will get hurt and lose a flip flop. Have a great week all. Love from me and Cathy in fourth month of lockdown in superb Mexico. Be positive always.

Wishing the Overland Event every success. Sad to miss it.

MEXICO MISCELLANY

Monday 17/08/2020: Not too much to report as we are in lockdown in Mexico as the number of Covid-19 cases increases and people more aware of the increasing prevalence of the outbreaks. Masks now obligatory and police becoming more insistent upon following the guidance by the health authorities. In view of this have decided to provide some snippets of info on Mexico gleaned from news items and local Mexicans.

Here in Oaxaca, as in other South American countries, it is possible to travel from place to place in 'taxis' known as 'colectivos'. This is a cheap way to see the sights of this major tourist area, when not in lockdown, but be prepared for some discomfort. For the tourist there is the colonial beauty, the indigenous influence, the landscape, and magnificent ruins at Monte Albán and Mitla, which make the area so attractive.

What is a 'colectivo'? A taxi that can stop anywhere to pick up passengers as it meanders around until it is full!! A colectivo follows different routes and each passenger pays a modest sum to jump on and off on the way to a destination. There are clear signs at the route start indicating to which village the colectivo goes. In addition to these signs, the destination is painted on the door and the top of the windshield and there's usually another sign on the dashboard.

However, problems may arise when, instead of the name of the village, a cab has the driver's name, his girlfriend's name, someone's nickname or (often) simply "Jesus" on the dashboard and/or windshield instead of, or in addition to, the name of the village. This reminds me of similar names of the Peugeot taxis in Africa, for example 'God's Gift' or 'Down, But Not Out'.

Why be prepared for some discomfort? These small red and white cars made to take four, often take as many as six passengers and sometimes more!! A few 'pennies' will get you to where you want to go but you may be crushed by an overweight 'mama' in a cramped and awkward position. My thanks to Joseph Sorrentino for some of this info.

Wednesday 19/08/2020: Cathy and I have just been sampling Agua fresca, that is a simple fruit drink both refreshing and delicious. Any ripe, juicy fruit can be used and jars of colourful agua fresca can be seen lined up on a counter or street cart! Tasty, refreshing and often surprising, these simple fruit drinks, served ice-cold, are ideal for living in a tropical climate. They're a good use of ripe fruit and make staying hydrated — especially during the hot summer months — easy, inexpensive and delicious. There are many varieties such as pineapple, melon, mango, lemón, guava, or just about any ripe, juicy fruit can be used to make agua fresca, as well as tamarind and hibiscus flowers. Thanks to Janet Blaser.

Sunday 23/08/2020: As previously reported in the LOG Mexico has several colourful festivals and religious ceremonies and recently in August one of these was held in Chilapa, in south west Mexico's Guerrero state. Every August 15 the streets of Chilapa are inundated with 'tigers' as part of The Tigrada Parade, in which the townspeople, along with surrounding communities, celebrate age old traditions and honour of the Virgin of the Assumption, venerated in the city's cathedral. This carnival of cats has deep roots associated with Mesoamerican mythology and rituals designed to invoke Tepeyollotl, the Cat God and protector of the mountains, to ensure fertile earth and abundance of rainfall.

In actual fact the animal in question is a jaguar, still frequenting parts of Mexico, but rarely seen these days. The celebration begins with a religious ceremony in the cathedral of Chilapa and continues with a procession of hundreds of men, women and children dressed in tiger costumes, wearing wooden masks, accompanied by rousing brass band music. Founded in religious myth it is a spectacular and mystical parade known for its colourful and often frightening costumes.

Tuesday 25/08/2020: Just to bring us down to earth after Jaguars we 'noticed a notice' which is rather ironic, if you get the point! And also we had another visitor but apologies for poor quality of photo. It was moving fast. Obviously looking for its prey. ME!



Bye for now. Next time some pics for the archive. Chile beans from Cathy and Spencer.

TENERE TRAPPED

Saturday 01/08/2020: Another month gone by and apart from anything else another problem we are facing is the difficulty of getting the Tenere out of the country. How we can freight it back to the UK is proving a major source of worry and frustration. Need to move on and although we could probably escape from Mexico the bike is not so easy to extricate from Zicatele. Help required so any advice welcome.

Wednesday 05/08/2020: We are in the state of Oaxaca which has banned the sale of sugary drinks and high-calorie snack foods to children aimed at curbing obesity. This is to prevent stores selling soft drinks and sweets to youngsters. It in effect puts sugary items into the same category as cigarettes and alcohol.

"It's important to finally put the brakes on this industry, which has already sickened our country and our children," said Magaly López Domínguez, the Oaxaca lawmaker who presented the bill. "The industry gets into the most remote corners of the state" – known for its mountainous topography – "where there's often not even medicines, but there's Coca-Cola."

Hugo López-Gatell who is overseeing the attempts to stop the spread of Covid-19 said that soft drinks are "bottled poison" and blamed their consumption for causing 40,000 deaths, along with high incidence of diabetes, obesity and hypertension – all Covid-19 related. Probably other countries should adopt similar measures to lower obesity and ill-health.

Saturday 08/08/2020: Our recent troubles with DHL's transportation of our cameras and spares from the UK to Mexico, which has prevented us from making high definition pics and videos, has become clear as we have discovered that the courier service uses the latest method of delivery as can be seen in the pic.

Cathy is becoming a little peeved with my intended venture into the unknown and trying to experiment on difficult terrain so I have told her that before she goes to extremes that it is not that bad. She doesn't have to 'walk the planks.' 'Don't do it Cathy!'

Wednesday 12/08/2020: Tuna Cactus. Yes not the fish but a fruit! So to continue the theme of what is good for one to eat all cactus species produce edible fruit, and we are currently in one of the major seasons for cactus fruit in Mexico.

These fruits contain vitamin C, other antioxidants, fibre, B vitamins and even some minerals. They tend to contain less sugar and more water than other fruits so are often recommended for diabetics. The most common cactus fruit grown and sold in Mexico is the tuna variety or prickly pear. In Mexico there are about 20,000 farmers harvesting 350 tonnes yearly.

Most are grown in Zacatecas, Puebla, and Hidalgo. There are two types, blanca (white) and roja (red), depending on whether the species produces betalain, the same antioxidant found in beets. So instead of vending machines for sugary drinks perhaps tuna juice should be available.

Friday 14/08/2020: I PUT A SCORPION IN THE IGNITION HOUSING OF MY MOTORBIKE!

As many of you know, I die quickly from numerous insects and various biting thugs. This scorpion I found on the floor of our room is a candidate for my demise. I thought he was dead so picked him up and went outside for a photo opportunity. He suddenly revived and scurried into my bike ignition. I am not allowed to vibrate him off, engine cook him, or spray him. Cathy says it's cruel. I am not risking a flying scorpion when riding, so off I went in search of two coconuts!! The bike can wait.



Have a great evening and big love from me and scorpion saver Cathy.

IF ONLY

Tuesday 14/07/2020: If only... we could escape from Escondido!!! If Only. Now many weeks here and what is a very lovely and extremely pleasant place for a few weeks, especially if you are a sand sea and surf lover, is now making us depressed. Need to get going. Need to attempt the Darien but borders closed, travel limited and regulations prohibit movement.

I am told that the President of Mexico Lopez Obrador has had two offers for a luxury jet that was purchased by the former President for $200 million as it is an embarrassment for the country. He travels by commercial airlines when necessary. The offers for the Boeing Dreamliner are in the region of $120 million but I might put in an offer as a means to escape!!

Thursday 16/07/2020: Worrying aspect now is that the number of Covid-19 cases is increasing rapidly. In the Oaxana region where we are there have been 9337 confirmed and 861 deaths. Mexico City has a very high death rate and the figures from there may not reflect the true numbers. There have been 66000 cases and 7000 deaths. We have to be vigilant and careful.

Saturday 18/07/2020: Glad to say that the throttle body for the bike has arrived from the UK and Mario is re-assembling the Tenere and hopefully it will be back running again. Mario is a first class bike mechanic and super fellow. Just gets on with the job without fuss or bother. Other parts and cameras have been sent back to Guatemala as customs would not allow entry. More money charged by customs and seems like a bit of a take. Will now have to go to Guatemala to get the package. DHL not very helpful.

Monday 20/07/20: Another distressing situation in Mexico is that the crime rate is escalating along with covid-19. Mexico's homicide rate climbed to a new record in July, as violence raged even as Covid-19 spread across the country and authorities urged the population to stay home and practise social distancing. Mexico registered over 3000 murders– the highest monthly figure since records began in 1997, most due to drug wars. This, and Covid-19, deepens the misery for many of the population living in poverty but Mexicans remain resolute and generally cheerful. Nice people.

"It's business as usual [for drug cartels] with a risk of further escalation, especially if at some point the armed forces are called away for pandemic control" said Falko Ernst, senior Mexico analyst at the International Crisis Group.

Violence has flared throughout the country, but it has been especially intense in the central state of Guanajuato, where criminal groups have battled over lucrative territories rife with theft from pipelines.

Wednesday 22/07/2020: Mario fitted new parts for the bike and glad to say it is now running smoothly and feels like normal. Tenere has survived!! Went for a short trip today avoiding populated areas and police and found a deserted beach where we could spend some time. I practiced my circus act while Cathy chilled in a sandy, rocky cove before going for a swim. Just wish it was somewhere else. Both need some medical treatment but not available here.

Just been following the travels of a fairly large spider along an old tree trunk. Quite a colourful chap but probably not wise to make friends with it. Maybe has a pretty nasty bite. No phone with me so no picture but later tried to find one. No success but came across one which is a super smart guy called a Peacock spider. Check the pic and also this link on you tube > where you can see one dancing to YMCA... note how big these chaps are!!!

Saturday 25/07/2020: We have lost our gecko and lizards but have recently seen a brightly coloured bird which we think is a Yellow-Rumped Cacique and found that it has interesting behaviour.

Male yellow-rumped caciques court females by flapping their wings and displaying their yellow feathers. The female cacique builds a long bag-like nest of plant fibres in a tree. The nests are usually built in tall trees that have an active wasp nest. The wasps help keep predators away! Caciques nest in colonies that can have up to 100 nests. The female lays 1-3 eggs. She incubates them for about two weeks and feeds them after they hatch. Male Yellow-Rumped Caciques keep watch over the nesting colony and warn others if there is a threat. The chicks fledge when they are a little over a month old.

The Cacique has a variety of calls and even mimics other bird calls.

Wednesday 29/07/2020: Mid-week and nothing to report as like most people ans countries the coronavirus has stopped many activities. Not much to look forward to but isolation and frustration. Stay safe everyone keep eating the sardines. They are good for you. Spencer and Cathy.

STOP PRESS

This entry is to announce the winners of the titles competition

Congratulations to the three winners of the titles competition for the accident chapter of my next book. Each will receive a DVD and a copy of 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker'. All three titles will be in print alongside mine, 'Intensities in Ten Cities', so one Chapter of the 'Zimbabwean Psychiatrists Hat' will have four titles...

The winners were picked for their relevance to the Chapter subject. You will have to buy the book to see how skilfully they relate to the content.

COMPETITION WINNERS

1. Neil Novak 'Como un Caracol en Patines.' (Like a snail on skates). A Motocross term of positivity when asked how things are going.
2. Shiva Prasad (India) 'Bites, bones and testicular groans.'
3. Stephen Marsh (UK) 'The Shadow of Mayhem.'

RUNNERS UP

Adnane Bensalah (Dubai, United Arab Emirates) 'Some Assembly Required.'
Kevin Davis (UK) 'This wouldn't have happened if I was normal.'
Shaan Nel (SA) 'Merrier without Malaria.' and 'The Anaphylactic Tactic.'

Congratulations all! But pity that no girl winners. Next time, perhaps.

Winners please email mikerunner76@gmail with address details, thank you.

ALL QUIET ON THE MEXICAN FRONT

Monday 29/06/2020: Decided that our beach existence was becoming a little difficult so have moved to a new residence! Earth and sky have calmed down but glad that we have taken up refuge inland to a more mountainous area as we have had five more tremors. The stairs to our new abode collapsed so now in repair mode. Better here than at lower level even though not so pleasant surroundings but local inhabitants friendly and lively.

Tuesday 30/06/2020: We have settled in to our 'up-market' apartment, actually very nice, but just two rooms. Pleasant view from the higher level down to thick vegetation rich and green with some exotic red bushes. At the moment we are lacking wild life so missing the iguanas and geckoes although some rustlings in the undergrowth which suggest creatures about.

Venezuelan friends are having a hard time. Some have escaped the country but some unable to leave. There is no let up from hardship and the UK government has refused to release 800 million of gold reserves to Maduro. He says the country needs the funds to combat covid-19. I don't think so!!

Wednesday 01/07/2020: Another month and still in Zicatela, seems the border will not be open for at least four more weeks. It is sapping our energy and biting into our finances. Now becoming a worry as cannot work here as coronavirus has clobbered any chance of a job like teaching English, for example. Cathy has marketable skills but needs contact with people but that's a no go. Not able to get to any travel shows even if they operate and can only pull in a few coins from writing magazine articles. Also probably lost the money I forwarded to Darien Gap organiser!! Book sales going well but hardly make me a millionaire. Bit Del Boyish, dream on. Also have to go to a bar to use wi-fi as problems with connection where we are.

Thursday 02/07/2020: Been talking to some locals, at a safe distance, and learned of a celebration other than 'The Day of the Dead'. It is known as Cinco de Mayo which is held in parts of Mexico and in the United States. It's a time to celebrate Mexican culture and, for some, an opportunity to drink a lot of margaritas and cerveza. But it is also a frequently misunderstood holiday. People often mistake Cinco de Mayo for a celebration of Mexican independence but in fact it celebrates a failed French invasion. The French President Napoleon III sent troops to Mexico in late 1861 hoping to colonize the country. The Mexican government and supporters retreated into northern Mexico. French forces focused their attention on the city of Puebla de Los Angeles. When the French attacked, on May 5, 1862, the battle lasted from daybreak to early evening. The French lost almost 500 soldiers. The Mexicans lost fewer than 100. The battle represents a symbolic victory for the Mexican forces and added to the resistance movement. French forces didn't leave until 1867 after years of fighting. The Mexican government was aided by support from the USA as it did not want French influence in Latin America. Mexicans living in the States celebrate Cinco de Mayo.

But in the past couple of years Donald Trump's election has bred some uncertainty and fear amongst some people of Mexican heritage in the United States In 2017 Trump tweeted on Cinco de Mayo "I love Hispanics". But Mexican-Americans aren't encouraged and some have said they are fearful of celebrating the day.

Saturday 04/07/2020: Mexico is experiencing a surge in Covid-19 cases and this has caused more concern in certain areas. Locally people seem to be returning to normal routines and in Europe restrictions are being lifted. I hear that on the first Saturday of pubs, bars and restaurants being allowed to open crowds flocked into cities for a night out, London's Soho area being jammed with revellers. In the past the plague caused thousands of deaths in Europe and of course in the UK. Samuel Pepys, the diarist and author, was not too happy about walking the streets and preferred to avoid crowded areas to avoid infection. Maybe some who have ignored social distancing might regret their actions.

Wednesday 08/07/2020: Just a word of warning and to those who entered the competition for the chapter in my next book on 'Accidents' I make this observation. Never make eye contact with anyone when you are eating a banana or with your pillion passenger when riding a motorcycle fast.

Not only do I trip up and down stairs, I also trip over flat surfaces and often over things that aren't there. If a cloud looked down at me, it would say, 'Look, that one's shaped like an idiot!' I am much safer on my motorcycle. No mis-haps this week though we have had five more tremors. But in need of some repairs to the body so will take advantage of a local 'must' experience!!

You all know my interest in Venezuela, the country from which I was prevented from leaving when trying to get into Columbia, and which lead to a 10,000 k detour, so I include some news that Maduro has negotiated with Iran to deliver fuel to the state. Tankers are carrying 1.5 million of barrels of petrol to the country in the face of sanctions by America. Iran has warned of serious reprisals if any country tries to stop these supplies. What will Iran want in recompense? A base there!!

Saturday 10/07/2020: Peace, harmony and Peruvian Ceviche from Mexican Ninja me and Cathy Nel. Have a superb week all. Don't forget to follow me on insta @spencer_james_conway if interested and on YouTube....

ZAPPED IN ZICATELA

Monday 22/06/2020: 'Just when you thought...' after the fire ants, the ATM robbery, violent storms and lock down what more? Earthquake,!! Yes, as reported briefly in the last post Mexico was hit by a 7.5 quake and the epicentre was only 26 ks from here. Zapped in the night as the buildings shook, tiles falling from roofs trees crashing down and huge waves blasting on to the shore. Exit left quickly!! Pursued by inhabitants from nearby. 'Head for the hills!!' Tsunami on the way.' Actually made for higher ground but creatures had the same idea, if they have ideas, so we had company. Birds 'skewering' in the wind and acting as if chased by dragons from a Harry Potter film. Very strange eerie atmosphere but exciting. Cathy unfazed and filming the aftermath. There were several aftershocks but the Tsunami never washed up so relaxed and returned to our veranda.

Gecko and iguana gone. Actually there was considerable damage to buildings along the coast and in Mexico City the quake caused minor damage. Several died so tragic for the people affected. Actually saw a notice that kind of reflects our lives at the moment. A Latin inscription 'Semper in Excretia Sumus, Solum Profundum Variat' roughly translated means 'We are always in the s..t, Only the depth varies.' NO. It is not that bad.

Wednesday 24/06/2020: The saga with my cameras and other parts continues. Mexico customs would not allow my epipen into the country so the package has been sent back to Guatemala where probably taxes and fees will have to be paid again. Will need to ride to Guatemala to pick up this essential equipment. Have also had to order more parts from the UK for the bike so may have similar problems. Hopefully with the help of silent prayer, got to try, will eventually succeed in getting everything.

Thursday 25/06/2020: All quiet here now although Mexico is suffering from an increase in the number of cases of Covid-19. Brazil even worse as it is spreading rapidly there. No measures in place to stop the surge in deaths. We are attempting to keep social distancing but some local people are stopping us to find out where we come from however we are becoming known in the area. I was even asked by a driver where I come from in South America as my Spanish has improved so much, out of necessity. He had to restrain a vicious guard dog of frightening stature so kept my distance.

Saturday 27/06/2020: Cathy and I getting bored now as each day the same routine. Ten kilometre walk in the early morning, avoiding police patrols, then life on our veranda. It gives me time to write and make final corrections for my next book which I need to transcribe from handwritten script to Word. At present scanning 250 pages.Cathy keeps calm and waits for the next earthquake. But we did find something to do with the help of a famous character from literature. Didn't take too long with only a couple of stone chisels and a wheelbarrow. Good workout. See pics of result. And guess who flew in to give us a hand.

Sunday 28/06/2020: Lastly Zicatela seems to be zapping us in different ways as both need to have eye tests. Probably cost an arm and a leg to examine eyes but need to visit top optometrist to be sure of first class service and right prescriptions. Found just the expert who has all the latest equipment so will make appointments. Gather he is booked up for a few weeks so maybe won't get to SEE him.

No more news so hope all safe, fried ants and cocoa beans. Have a look at photo archive. Some artistic shots. Best to all Spencer.

EARTHQUAKE: 23/06/2020

LIFE HAS OFFICIALLY GONE INSANE. WE ARE IN AN EARTHQUAKE RIGHT NOW!

Testicle injury, bank robbery and now Earthquake and Tsunami warning. Not making it up . Google it. Everyone outside. It was felt in Guatemala and Honduras also : 7.5 Magnitude and 28 kms from here is epicentre, 10.29am.(200 kilometres wide and 21 kilometres deep, at present). 11 tremors today, also. We have to stay outside for the aftershocks. See Video report on Facebook/Messenger. Sorry about the capital letters and Cathy cutting off my head (during filming) . Adrenaline. Love and hugs from shaky me and Cathy Nel. Update, Tsunami warning just announced for all of Central America and Mexico. We are out of here, away from the sea and into the mountains. Update 2: Buildings collapsed, one dead and some injured. (In 2017, an earthquake here, of a lower 7.1, killed 360 people) Will add more in the next LOG. Shaken but not.........

Check this out in The Independent >

MEXICO STILL IN LOCKDOWN

Saturday 13/06/2020: Looks as if the borders will not be open till the end of July so we have to sit tight in Escondido. The knock-on effect of Covid-19 is that there is a shortage of essential supplies of household necessities and more seriously that of food. This has inspired a local beach character, Francisco 'Franky G' Garcia, a 25 year old with a heart of gold, to help those in need. He is homeless and lives on the veranda of a beach cafe, where he acts as watchman. He also takes tourists in a small wooden boat out to see spinner dolphins in their hundreds. But there has been no work for four months. Same for all the market stall holders and thousands in Mexico because of Covid-19.

Franky asked the cafe if he could use their kitchen and from US Aid money he bought fifty kilos of beans, 2000 tortillas and 2000 bottles of water. He asked me in the street if I could help distribute these supplies through the area. I said 'sure' and we did so after the Oaxaca District Council had pre-warned people. Cathy, Francisco and a friend, Rafael, and myself visited four areas and found big queues waiting. Great people and a successful mission.

Monday15/06/2020: Suddenly, out of nowhere, violent thunderstorms. Have not had rain for three months so unexpected. Streets flooded and damage caused to houses and palm trees. Debris washed up on normally pristine beaches from foliage and detritus swept out to sea during the storm. Rivulets of water everywhere and huge sand banks formed by wind. The gods angry and sending thunder and lightning. Quite a spectacle. After the storm people clearing up and repairing roofs and windows. Internet down.

Wednesday 17/06/2020: Mexico has one of the largest numbers of people who continue to smoke and there are attempts by groups to stop the habit. There are signs that warn of the dangers of smoking and there is a group of prestigious civil organizations that want a country free of tobacco smoke. The addiction kills more than 66,000 Mexican women and men every year. This group is campaigning for the comprehensive reform of the General Law for Tobacco Control and the proper implementation of the measures that have been passed through parliament. Take away coffee cups give the message.

STOP PRESS...

BANK ROBERRY RIGHT NOW! 18/06/2020: 4.50 am. I am in Zicatela a little town in Mexico. Banditos just blew up and robbed the only ATM. 30 metres from here. I heard the noise so ran down to sort them all out. Gone in a bakkie lucky for them. Couldn't get my slippers on fast enough. (Don't be silly-adventure rider slippers-never!). A crowbar was left by the robbers. Just finished with Police and Military. Cathy asleep through a bank robbery! Boring life. Have a nice day people.

Saturday 20/06/20: We can't get the bike going. Need two parts so will need to order them from UK, have no choice. The bike needs to get back to UK for Shows. Looks like Yamaha Japan will provide me with a new bike next year. The T7 Yamaha XT700 Tenere. The upgrade of mine that was never going to happen but did. Love my Yamaha so sad to have to replace it.

Sunday 21/06/2020: Have learnt that the ATM gang did four other heists on the same night but have been caught and will be in prison for a lengthy holiday and ATM rest!!

After all this time on the road, correction, beach, Cathy needed some repairs to well warn regalia so found Rosy who is a whizz at haute couture!! She also supplied me with a new suit of clothes as a precaution against marauders of the ATM brigade. Please let me know who took the photo of me!!



I launched a competition yesterday on social media pages and have had over 1000 replies. So I am extending the entries for a week. Please go to my Facebook post, spencer james conway, or PM me with your entry. Right. What am I looking for? I am writing a chapter in my new book (The Zimbabwean Psychiatrists Hat) on my propensity for accidents. I am looking for an inspirational/witty/different Chapter Title. The three winners will all go into print and will receive a signed DVD and book from my African escapades.

Start the title with:
A. This wouldn't have happened if...
B. I can't believe...
C. Your choice.
Closing date Sunday 28th June

Monday 22/06/2020: Mexico is full of surprises. Apart from exotic birds and plants, the heritage of Mayan culture and mix with Spanish influences, religious fervour and festivals there is always a sense of the unusual. I came across an elephant garden with a lion somewhere!!! NO! Not that serious.

No more news today. But please take a look at Photo Archive as some interesting pics there. Cathy sends love and from me chilli chips and bananas. Spencer

WHERE ARE WE GOING FROM HERE?

Monday 01/06/2020: 'I don't know,' I don't know,' but not out of Zicatela it seems. We are becoming more frustrated as despite all efforts so far to clear cameras and bike parts through customs, although we have all the correct, certified documents, no sign of the packages being forwarded to us.

Also it looks as if my trusted Yamaha is too sick to recover in Escondido. I need a specialist workshop to right the wrongs. Still love my bike and would be very sad to have to say that's the end of its days. It is really a part of both Cathy and my lives. To make it more miserable both still not 100% fit and I have just undergone torture by fire ants. Attacked and bitten many times so swollen hands and legs. Needed fast visit to clinic for injections to avoid anaphylactic problem. It is also pouring with rain for the first time since being in Zicatela. Seems some of Paul McCartney's lyrics of 'I don't know,' from his Egypt Station album are relevant, but we don't have crows at our windows but woodpeckers!! Don't worry 'I will take the strain.' Click on the link for song and lyrics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aef2eV7GmQw

We still have our animal and insect visitors to keep us company, baby gecko growing and moves fast. Also very privileged to have a Golden-cheeked Woodpecker knocking at our door. A beautiful bird that inhabits the tropical lowlands of west Mexico. It is found in woodlands, coconut plantations, gardens, and in tall trees. It likes people and often lives in villages and makes its presence known with a sneezy "cháco cháco" sound. The male has a flame-red crown patch and the female a pale greyish crown.

Wednesday 03/06/2020: Brazil now high on the list of most cases and deaths from coronavirus. President Bolsonaro is still making speeches about the fact that he is more worried about the economic effect of Covid-19 than the number of deaths. He visits workers and shakes hands and fails to take any precautions. Several senior advisors have been dismissed who disagree with his approach to the epidemic. This attitude creates confusion in other countries but in Mexico educated measures are being taken. New signs have been erected to make people aware of restrictions in force. One such is on the beach nearby.

Friday 05/06/2020: Can't get away from Zicatela nor from Buddhas. Got a red light from one. Is this a warning? Would prefer a green light for permission to go.

Sunday 07/06/2020: Have been watching coconuts falling from trees onto tin roofs and tiles of out- houses nearby for the last two months. 'So what,' I hear you cry. The point is that the coconuts fall from a fair height and dent or smash through the roofs which is not good for the owners. Nor for our sanity as during the night it sounds like gunshots so anxious wait for the invaders!! Are we in the line of fire?

Tuesday 09/06/2020: Damn and blast and more damn and blast. Have been informed that the cameras and bike parts have been sent back to Guatemala as that is where they were sent from to Mexico. WHY? All paper work was 'purchased', correct documentation and all forms signed. NO matter, not allowed into Mexico for importation. Probably believed the goods were for re-sale or that they were contaminated!! Or who knows what? Actually said that the bike gloves in the package were an issue.

As you know we were originally headed to Guatemala before coronavirus prevented us crossing from Mexico into that country. The goods were sent to a friend in Guatemala City to keep until we picked them up. Now only solution is to wait until the border is open and ride to collect them there. Another unwanted detour as no longer able to do Darien Gap at the moment.

Thursday 11/06/2020: Visited by a large moth today that settled on an upright on our veranda. Actually there are many butterflies and moths flittering around so again privileged with species of flying creatures. Not only birds but many types of insect. Just to say that if you are interested the difference between a butterfly and a moth can be ascertained by looking at their heads. A butterfly's antennae are club-shaped with a long shaft and a bulb at the end. A moth's antennae are feathery or saw-edged.

They are in a class known as Lepidoptera. Another way to mark the difference is that moths rest with their wings flat but butterflies rest with them closed. Now you will never make a mistake in your identification and will be able to answer the question at your next quiz competition,which of course you attend weekly.

Lastly, as said before, there is concern in Zicatela about the environment and the protection of nature and wild life, as the pic shows, which states people should 'Stop Littering'. So with that in mind everyone let's do our best to abide by this notice. Bye for now, Cathy and Spencer.

SAND, SEA AND ZICATELA

Monday 25/05/2020: Well yes, still in Zicatela and looking rather gloomy as Mexico death rate from coronavirus has now surpassed the number in the UK. It is fifth on the world rankings list and still rising. Now even more important to keep away from Escondido where there are towns people, although no panic there. Have to go at times for some essentials and to check on my bike which is undergoing repairs in a workshop. Hope the part that is damaged can be sorted.

As not much to report will provide you with some info on Escondido which means "hidden port" in English. It is said that a young Mexican woman from a local village was taken prisoner by marauding pirates and held on board ship which moored in a bay. With daring and courage she managed to escape to the shore and disappeared inland. The pirates could not find her and gave up searching. They named her 'La Escondida' and since that time the place became known as Escondido.

Puerto Escondido lies between the two municipalities of Santa María Colotepec and San Pedro Mixtepec. There have often been territorial conflicts between the two municipalities, each claiming part of the other's border lands. On occasions it has led to conflict and killings. Quite like the American wild-west. Central government does not get involved in the disputes. The area around Escondido has a mixture of peoples, some of African descent and others of Indian heritage and also from intermarriage. Playa Zicatela, where we are, is a Nahuatl word meaning 'place of thorns.' Not very wise to wander into thorn bush with bare feet.

Tuesday 26/05/2020: Not good news. The cameras and bike parts have been in Mexico City for several days but being refused onward transportation to me as they do not have a 'sanitary' certificate. They will be sent back to the sender or destroyed without this authorisation. 'Sanitary' certificates are usually for imported foodstuffs or perishables. I cannot get one so am very down. The goods were allowed into Guatemala without a certificate so why is Mexico different? Anybody help?

Wednesday 27/05/2020: Am attempting to keep fit but rather difficult as have to avoid police patrols on the beach. No set time for them to appear but very polite and friendly when we do meet them. Both Cathy and I try to walk/run up to 10 k a day and there is a little gym where we can hideaway, nobody else goes there so no problems with social distancing. Without these outlets might go bananas.

Thursday 28/05/2020: Contractors are building a new airport 30 miles north of Mexico City and have unearthed skulls, ribs and limbs of mammoths which have been dated as being 10.000 years old, not very old in the history of mammoths as they date back to at least 50,000 years. The area has revealed at least 70 skeletons of mammoths in the past few months. It was an area of lakes and grasslands which the mammoths found ideal to forage and to mate. Mammoths consumed about 225 kilograms of plants, grasses, aquatic shrubs and trees daily. They used the tip of their sensitive trunks to pick and eat delicate buds, flowers and shorter grasses. Mammoths had four giant, shoe box-sized teeth — two upper and two lower. They grew six sets of teeth over a lifetime of about 60 years and typically died when their last set of teeth lost the ability to grind up vegetation. Like dinosaurs man has a fascination for mammoths and attempts have been made to clone them. (Some of this info found in National Geographical website)

Friday 29/05/2020: Have recently posted a story about a Golden Buddha which generated many comments. Co-incidentally I came across a highly decorative local mural depicting a Buddha and am trying to write a story about it.

Saturday 30/05/2020: Have decided to go in for a new mode of cover for the Yamaha whilst not in use. I am in contact with 'Speedy Knitters' who make covers for nearly everything. Skilled crafts women with a Mexican flair and an eye for attractive design in hot colours. If it works out well might have them knit new gear for Cathy!! She would look good in Maidstone High Street. As an example see the pic of the Figaro. Not a very common car and a few owned by celebrities.

Lastly for this Log and to provide another example of art found in Mexico thought that this one is a universal representation of accidents when they occur. I have had the experience of being photographed after coming off a motorbike!

There is now much talk about ''quarantine' because of coronavirus which nobody knows quite how it will operate. This is not new as Evelyn Waugh experienced in 1929 on a visit to Egypt. When he was leaving from Port Said by boat he was required to pay a 'quarantine tax'. No one seemed to know about this and who had authorised it or what bearing it had upon 'quarantine'. Did you have to pay also to enter the country? The residents maintained that it was purely a 'bit of fun' on the part of the harbour officials who had no right to impose it whatsoever.

I suspect that some officials somewhere in some countries might try something similar.

All for now. Keep well everyone. Love from Cathy and myself.

ZICATELA SANCTUARY

Sunday 17/05/2020: Still in Zicatella and becoming known in the area. It is better to be here than in Mexico City where we could have been for the last five weeks. That would have been a disaster. Here we are surrounded by nature and some beautiful areas of this coastal region. Also the local people are friendly and welcoming, the Police are accommodating and there is little to worry about. It is, however, becoming frustrating as all plans are on hold. Can't wait to get back on the bike which is, at present, undergoing some repairs at a garage in Escondido. Also new clutch should be arriving next week sent from the UK four months ago!! Rapid service!!

It seems that people here are protective of flora and fauna and street artists are fond of depicting animals and birds on murals. This adds colour and makes for attractive ambling around the town. Two examples of such work are given and more on the photo archive.



Tuesday 19/05/2020: It appears that the drug cartels are acting as 'Aid' agencies as lockdown has increased the necessity for handouts to the poorest citizens. El Chapo, former head of the Sinaloa Cartel, who is in jail in the States, has appointed his daughter marketing manager to organise food supplies to the needy. Convoys of cars in remote areas of western Mexico are delivering food packages to the inhabitants.

Wednesday 20/05/2020: Needed a haircut so found an up-market 'maison de coiffure' which advertised appealing relaxation in the smoking room, and other delights. La Diablita, little devil, is the subject of a legendary tale of a young girl who had many attractions but could be dangerous. How could I resist? Barber shops used to provide an area where clients could purchase a variety of 'smokes' and enjoy the quiet company of others whilst smoking their favourite tobacco.

Thursday 21/05/2020: Continuing with the interest in murals found a couple more that show the expertise of these artists. Mexicans love beauty and exoticness as shown by the stunningly bright colours and skill of artefacts and craft work.

This is an aspect of their culture stretching back to before the Spanish arrived in the country. Sometimes weird, sometimes admonitory, sometimes political and at time philosophical. And always artistically appealing. The small pictures of them on the Log do not do them justice.

Friday 22/05/2020: Strange to say but everything closed today with notices warning about coronavirus. One day open the next closed. Nobody seems to know from day to day what it will bring. Open/closed-closed/open. Actually Mexico has a high death rate now and has severe restrictions in some areas. More reason to be happy with where we are.

As some of you know I have been sponsored by John Lagerway who has supplied helmets for both myself and Cathy and coincidentally found an advert for my 'Commander' helmet on yet another mural however different spelling. You never know what's around the corner!!

You all know my interest in Venezuela, the country from which I was prevented from leaving when trying to get into Columbia, and which lead to a 10,000 k detour, so I include some news that Maduro has negotiated with Iran to deliver fuel to the state. Tankers are carrying 1.5 million of barrels of petrol to the country in the face of sanctions by America. Iran has warned of serious reprisals if any country tries to stop these supplies. What will Iran want in recompense? A base there!!

Saturday 23/05/2020: My Dad used to work for The British Council in Africa and elsewhere and I came across a notice in Escondido which advertised a testing centre for competency in English for those who wish to apply for a scholarship to study in the UK. The Council is the cultural wing of UK Aid Overseas and my dad worked as an advisor to Education Ministries in various places. My brother, Simon and Mum, Wendy, went as a family to the countries to which he was posted. Before joining the Council he volunteered as a teacher and was sent to Kenya. My brother was three and I was one! We lived in an African hut for a year before moving into a bungalow vacated by another teacher.

Lastly. On a slightly macabre note, a wall artist seems to have predicted mask wearing to prevent coronavirus! But maybe it is more a warning against drugs. Who Knows? Nobody Knows!! Knows! Nose! No's! No! Does anybody know?

That's all for now. Please go to photo archive for more interesting and unusual photos. Love from Cathy and myself.

NOWHERE TO GO

Monday 11/05/2020: Amazingly all shops and other outlets open!! Seems that the local people have declared that coronavirus does not threaten them despite the fact that the death rate in Mexico is still rising. We are being very careful as there have been some cases not far from us. Also in Brazil the President has declared that people need not worry as they are protected naturally and he insists on meeting and shaking hands with others.

Wednesday 13/05/2020: As there is not much of interest to report have decided to include a snippet from my book which some may have read on social media sites. This is an episode that occurred in South Africa and by no means unusual when entering countries or crossing borders. One stays cool and maintains a smiling demeanour.

From 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker'

Arrested for a forged passport and being 84 years old.

I landed in Joburg, Airport, South Africa. After a cursory look at my passport, the standard six foot nine inch moustache bearing Customs Official looked me in the eyes, unsmiling.
"Date of birth?"
"12th of the 5th," I replied.
He paused, stood still, unblinking.
"It says here you were born on the 14th?" he growled, with a very 'lean-forward- interested-in-my-answer' look.
My reply did not go down too well.
"I was actually born on the 12th of May but my parents didn't register me for a while. They were hippies (sorry Dad if you are reading this- obviously very good looking, intelligent, well presented hippies) and when my father went to the Registry Office he guessed what day I was born and got it wrong by two days. So all official paper work is stamped the 14th. I just forgot officer. It's the truth. (Which it was). So actually I have two birthdays a year, I am looking good for 84."
He didn't believe me, wasn't impressed and a quiz and a search that my Mexican doctor would have been proud of, ensued. Thanks Dad. I escaped with a fine for false information paid after a threat of a ten year prison sentence.

Outside I found an informative sign!! Actually not here but when I landed in Morocco when I started my Africa travels.

Remember, the rope of lies is short, people. Falseness lasts a while, the truth lasts for eternity.

Friday 15/05/2020: The area around here is very clean and looked after with some thought and care. Not endowed with cutting-edge facilities nevertheless there are refuse bins to stop throw-away rubbish littering the beach. However not all makes it into the bins.

Have just learnt that my cameras and spare parts for the bike have been dispatched from Guatemala to Escondido but will take another 10 days to get here. It has taken nearly three months from the UK. Customs have added extra charges so has cost far more than expected.

Saturday 16/05/2020: Came across a Mayan inspired mural which I've named 'Dreaming' and hope that it brings hopes of continuing our journey and escape from Mexico as have received an up-dated invite from the British Army in Belize to join them on a two week jungle expedition. Hopefully it can all be arranged and perhaps after onto the Darien Gap.

Now cafes are opening might be able to go to one along the beach for a more varied choice of food as we have been living on fish and rice for some days. There is unlimited choice.

OK... that's about all for this log so keep safe and hope all can enjoy the open air soon with friends, Spencer and Cathy.

STILL SURVIVING

Wednesday 29/04/2020: Precautions becoming more severe here as more deaths in Mexico from Covid 19 so just have to go with the flow. We have warnings at the entrance to our only shop which remains open but has limited supplies now all surfers have left and who are probably practising on stairs at home. As you enter there are hand washing facilities for prevention of the spread of coronavirus.

Also another 'Zone of Risk' not far from our beach pad. We need to be careful as these beasts have a habit of waiting for unsuspecting prey. Bit more dangerous than our iguana and tortoise. We also have a problem with a local Zicatela inhabitant who wanders around in a threatening manner looking for recruits. We have been warned to carry garlic but there is none available so have cactus as an alternative. Local legend has it that this character comes from Transylvania and is a friend of Dracula. Personally a bit suspicious about this.

Friday 01/05/2020: Another month and MAY have to stay here for some time yet. Nothing we can do. Had a talk in with friends on ZOOM so thanks to all those who joined and hope people followed my info on my Africa and South America trips. Quality of video not that good but partly due to reception and also poor camera.

We now have to go out at 6 in the morning to avoid beach patrols by buggy police. Need to fish to get food as all outlets closed. This is desert island survival and we have to stay wild.

Have noted that the UK is experiencing high numbers of coronavirus deaths and here in Mexico also increasing daily. We have to stay very close to our beach abode and also have to keep a look out for other dangers as we are near to predatory carnivores as warned by another sign.

Sunday 03/05/2020: Just got some news from buddies in Venezuela where the situation is dire. The price of oil has plummeted so what revenue the country has is now almost zero. Other countries do not want to buy, or cannot because of trade restrictions, from Venezuela, so poverty has escalated. About four million have left for nearby countries, the majority to Colombia and Ecuador, but now these areas are unwilling to take any more refugees and those who have escaped Venezuela are homeless and without any means of support.

My recollections of the Venezuelans is of a happy and welcoming people so much sympathy for them.

Now heard that a coup attempt was carried out by mercenaries to capture Maduro and take him to the US. It failed miserably and the American leaders were captured and are now held in Venezuela. The US government has denied involvement but no doubt the huge financial reward being offered was the incentive for the attempt.

Thursday 07/05/2020: Anahuac was the name in Nahuatl of what is now Mexico, which means a land surrounded by water, during Pre-Hispanic times. When the Spanish conquistadors besieged México in 1521, the local population suffered decimation form disease brought by the invaders, as noted before. Let's hope coronavirus doesn't spread unchecked.

Friday 08/05/2020: Am in need of spare parts for my Yamaha and discovered that one might get them nearby so tootled off illicitly to a likely place but disappointed as given wrong info. Bike not ready for recycling!! Actually have parts in Guatemala shipped out from Laguna in the UK but stuck in customs. Nightmare red tape to get them sent here.

Saturday 09/05/2020: Police kindly allowed me to go to see Joycy as the old spondulics running out and had to pay rent. Bank closed so no other means of avoiding gaol!! Thought I might make an offer on a salubrious residence on the coast so Cathy and I can live with more space rather than on a veranda. Pickles is becoming a nuisance.

Pleased to say that 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' is becoming popular and have received some astute and commendatory reviews. Thanks people, very welcome to know that readers are enjoying the book. Hopefully will be able to follow up with books on South and Central America when I can get out of Mexico. Love from Cathy, who always stays in the background, and myself. Stay well and don't forget to check out the photo archive. Spencer.

SURVIVAL IN THE SUN TWO

Friday 17/04/2020: Of course we remain in Zicatela and making the best of the situation. We can still get out very early in the morning for a hike along the beach but otherwise not so free to be in the open. Unfortunately there have been several deaths from coronavirus infection in Escondido and one nearby so we are cautious in our movements.

Our veranda is our home and we are gathering a menagerie of pets. Pickles, the iguana, being one. We feed him everyday whilst the gecko stays well away. That's the beginning of a poem. Suggestions for completion please. To be on the next Log.

Sunday 19/04/2020: ALittle info about Iguanas. They are native to Central and South America, and can grow up to 2mts long and live to 12 years old. As adults they are very strong and can inflict damage with their tales. Can break a leg with one strike. If you keep one as a pet be careful as when fully grown they can become aggressive. Personally I don't agree with such creatures as pets. They should be left to roam but I know that they can be quite troublesome in some places, Florida has troublesome iguanas. Ours is young and comes along daily to give us a nod. Pickles is not a pet!....

Monday 20/04/2020: Still making some discoveries on secret walks and found that an axe man has been busy in the past. What he did is depicted on walls by some steps used by unsuspecting people. Check out the mural. Apparently leads to where Emili welcomes you. Venture if you dare.

Still managing to supply ourselves with fish, once again need to keep a careful watch out for Police, but not too difficult in the early morning. I have a beach hut which can be used as a quick hideaway and a more desperate escape route when required. Also used by the Axe Man!!

Thursday 23/04/2020: Mexico is now experiencing a surge in coronavirus cases which is very worrying. Most, of course, in Mexico City but all other areas have cases. People are becoming more aware and taking precautions. Our area has several cases. Figures are 12,872 known cases, 2,627 recovered and 1,221 deaths. Most in Mexico City.

In comparison it is estimated that millions died during epidemics in the 16th century amongst the Aztecs. New scientific research reveals that as many as 15 million people died in southern Mexico from previously unidentified traces of the salmonella enterica bacterium. This is known to cause enteric fever, of which typhoid is an example. According to a research study, the symptoms tally with those mentioned in records from the time, which describe victims developing red spots on the skin, vomiting, and bleeding from various body orifices. At the time the Aztecs had no means of protection and were unaware of how it was spread so huge numbers became victims of the disease. In Mexico today health authorities are actively involved in limiting the spread of coronavirus.

The Aztecs were super creative and it is rewarding that examples of their architecture and craft survive. Their heritage lives on in artistic creation today.

This is known as the skull of the Smoking Mirror and represents the god Tezcatlipoca, or "Smoking Mirror," one of four powerful creator deities, who were amongst the most important gods of the Aztecs and is conventionally cast as an adversary to Quetzalcoatl.

This is only one of the beautiful masks that were favoured by the Aztecs who covered them in mosaics.

Friday 24/04/2020: On a lighter note have decided to go fishing with this chap who named his boat after beautiful Maria, the love of his life. There is a song about her which begins 'Remember Acapulco that night. Maria Bonita, Mary of my soul' by the Mexican Tenor Alejandro Algara... Google You Tube for the song.

That's all for now and hope everyone surviving lockdown wherever you are. Spencer

SURVIVAL IN THE SUN

Sunday 12/04/2020: Still in Escondido, or rather Zicatela, which is 5ks from the town. Only a very small place of habitation mainly used by surfers, when permitted. Now empty so Happy Easter to all which will be passed by the time you read this.

What can I say? Stopped by Dune Buggy Police this morning whilst on our walk along the beach. No one in sight but asked to go back to our 'residence'. Very polite and apologetic. Had to return to our 'room with a view'. Not quite Florence but has water and sand, palm trees and seabirds. Friendly gecko pleased to see us. His name is Jorge! Thought you might want to know where we are so have posted a location map for those interested.

Monday 13/04/2020: We have been waiting for our camera and bike parts which were sent to Guatemala several weeks ago. Why there? As we were on our way to the Darien we intended to pick them up from customs there but as the borders closed could no longer make it into that country. A friend is trying to get the package released which was sent by DHL from the UK!! Almost impossible as RED Tape and officialdom preventing release. One day we will get them, hopefully, so we can video and improve photo quality. Just another little hassle one has to experience. Nothing smooth. We are Frogged.

We now have to go out at 6 in the morning to avoid beach patrols by buggy police. Need to fish to get food as all outlets closed. This is desert island survival and we have to stay wild.

Mexicans have a good sense of humour and coping with the situation. Like in many places, like, there is a shortage of some essentials but no need to worry as friends will help out. Like! Adopting the latest, like, use of like, to keep up with the younger generation, like.

Tuesday 14/04/2020: As we are in lockdown I have been looking into some facts and cultural aspects of Mexico. Actually the official name for Mexico is the United Mexican States and is the 11th most populated country in the world with around 117 million people and the 14th largest country by land area.

Mexico's culture is rich, colourful and vibrant, influenced by its ancient civilisations such as the Aztec and Maya as well as European colonisation. It is unique and probably one of the most fascinating cultures in the world. The traditions and customs of the Mexican people are varied and diverse. In Escondido and Zicatela there are examples of art and decorations inspired by Mexican heritage.

It is nice to see the artefacts and costumes of the local people and I can remember in my parent's home in the UK examples of this. One huge multi coloured parrot made of wood hanging on a swing from a ceiling which was bought in Mexico city many moons ago and still 'alive' and squawking!!

Pottery, embroidered cotton garments, wool shawls, with angular designs, colourful baskets and rugs are some of the common items associated with Mexican folk art. Other articles of great attraction, inspired by the natural surroundings and colours of the birds, are evident in the woven clothing and mosaics. Murals are everywhere.

Wednesday 15/04/2020: Lastly we have no immediate plans as Covid-19 has made it impossible to move on so 'day by day' as it comes, but hope all well and I'm not yet up the pole but sitting on it. 'Toodle-Pip' for now and take note of the wording in the Pic. Love from Spencer and Cathy.

P.S. Don't forget the Armchair Adventure Festival arranged by the Sidecar Guys. Click below for details...



ISOLATION IN MEXICO

Wednesday 01/04/2020: We are in lock down in Puerto Escondido, Mexico. There is no one here except Cathy Nel and I, and a couple of local fishermen, so we get to exercise on the beach. Zicatela beach is one of the most dangerous surfing areas in the world. I have extreme respect for surfers. There are small surf board plaques as a memorial to the 35 'Children of the Sea' who have lost their lives on this beach. I have never ever been in such massive waves before. However, guests are made welcome here when there isn't Coronavirus as you can see in the pic. Stay well and safe and sensible everyone in these awful times.

Friday 03/04/2020: After this is over Alpaca my bags and become a Llama and Iguana farmer.

Jokes aside there is lots of Corona shaming and blaming going on. We are in this together. There is no passion more contagious than fear. I have learnt that when one's mind is made up, this diminishes fear: knowing what must be done does away with fear. I am hoping that on the other side of fear is freedom. Stay safe, sit still and alone. Best of luck to our world, all my friends and their families. Stick together. Glad to say that Cathy is smiling again.

Monday 06/04/2020: Morning everybody. Cathy Nel and I have received papers as 'Humanitarian Refugees' which would be funny if it wasn't so tragic. It means we are legal here but not the bike. Hope you guys and girls are all holding up OK with the self-isolation. Sadly Mexico was late with the lockdown and I pray for the people here but there are 'measures' in force to prevent corona spreading!

Tuesday 07/04/2020: We decided a while back to self-isolate, especially with Cathy recovering from Dengue. We have a basic room with no TV etc, at fifteen dollars a day, but facing the sea. We also have a balcony with a huge tree full of hummingbirds, iguanas, bearded dragons, neon green lizards, grackles, baby squirrels and a myriad of creepies, so we have our own live TV. Pic below is one of the more exotic species.



Oh, and I have Cathy, who is more entertaining than TV for 28 days will be on our balcony. I am allowed to go to the only open supermarket on the bike which is about five kms. Just before lockdown I got some shots on our private beach. This one we used frequently for exercise. Really swinging place.

Wednesday 08/04/2020: Cathy and I are now totally isolated we are the only people here, all locals have disappeared, which is so odd and a little eerie. Have time to appreciate the art work which is everywhere in Escondido. This one is Incred... ibilay.

I am extremely proud to be a biker. Don't ride people, please. If you break down on your machine you will need humans. If, worse, you crash, you will need Emergency Services.

I am an optimist about this world of ours but even I swing from positivity to 'what the hell is going on'. Stay safe everyone. Support each other. Bore people with posts like I do. Much love. This post is to salute all family values. As we are all getting a bit maudlin and thoughtful , inevitably, during these tough times.

My daughter, Feaya Victoria, sent me a photo I did not know she had. It is the first evidence of me in Kenya thinking about which motorcycle to buy and which continent to circumnavigate first. Makes a change from a motorbike shot.

Friday 10/04/2020: Just found some interesting info on local history that the Spanish Conquistadors relied on the metal making skills of indigenous tribes to replenish their armaments. In Guerrero state in western Mexico they could produce complex alloys including copper-silver, copper-arsenic and copper-tin.

They were able to use a variety of blow pipes and crucibles to smelt copper and other ores. Local expertise helped the Spanish to colonise South America. Somewhat ironic. They could probably repair the bike I found for renovation!!!.

Unlike the notice below we are still posting on social media so keep in contact, it does help to know people are out there.

Look at the photo archive for some more pics and once again stay safe. Spencer and Cathy.

CAUGHT IN A TRAP

Sunday 22/03/2020: As reported last log all gone pear shaped now. Stymied all round. Borders closed. Now told cannot leave Escondido so no'wt to do but wait it out here. I suppose better than in Mexico City as at least we can get out for some open air. This is at present. One room 24/7 would not be so good. Would be a strain on mental and physical well-being. To open this log I thought it appropriate that some info is given on the local wildlife.

Tuesday 24/03/2020: Mexico has probably the most abundant variety of species anywhere in the world and we have many around us along the coast both on land and in the sea. Two such, Bearded Dragons, come for bananas in the morning plus lizards, geckos, humming birds, grackles and more. It's amazing.

We also have a resident Common House Gecko, Hemidactylus frenatus. In Mexico they are known as gecko casero or lagartija besucona. Globally there 1,500 different geckos of which 80 species within the Hemidactylus Genusthey are found in tropical and subtropical regions thriving in proximity to humans! They have disproportionately large heads with a snout that is longer than the distance between the large eyes and the small roundish ear openings. The upper surfaces of the body are covered with small granules that are largest on the snout. The tail is used in territorial posturing; male house geckos lift their tails and vibrate it briefly to ward off other males. The tail also provides an energy storage location which the animal uses under abnormal feeding conditions. They have the ability to lose their tails as a defence mechanism which can be regrown. Our gecko is a friendly fellow and appears suddenly from nowhere.

We also have a Grey Squirrel in our thatch and she has just had two babies. They came out three days ago and sunbathe at 5.15pm for twenty minutes then go back to sleep. The Mexican grey squirrel is a species of a tree squirrel. The fur of these squirrels is grey in colour combined with a bright rufous belly. Their coloration may vary depending on location. It can be grey on the upper parts and white to orange or to deep chestnut on the under parts. settlers.

There are, of course, some amazing birds which wake us in the morning. One is the highly coloured hummingbird which is incredibly small and hovers in the trees flapping its wings in a blur of movement to keep in the air whilst striving to suck nectar from flowers. The pic below is by Kaytee. We saw the smallest ever today. Only the size of my thumbnail!!! Fully active and startlingly colourful.

Thought you might also like to know of a new species of dog courtesy of Michael Micheli. A real Pure Bread

Thursday 26/03/2020: As yet Mexico is not in lockdown at all. We are free to go where we want and no precautions are being made. I pray it does not bite here. It seems crazy. The bike has had its last sticker competition and will be parked up for a while now.

Saturday 28/03/2020: Lastly we are surviving on fish and rice, nothing much else, and Cathy and I are able to go fishing with buddies early in the morning. Cathy is rehabilitating and acts as lookout on the boat and spotted a school of dolphins which then accompanied us on our fishing exploits.

Take care all and please stay in. Hope you are not all getting cabin fever after all the DIY is done safe.

Proper 'virus times' love and luck to all from me and Cathy. Respect! and don't forget to take a look at photo archive for up-to-date pics.

RECOVERY PERIOD

Wednesday 11/03/2020: Back in Escondido where Cathy is slowly recovering. Still on medication and waiting for results of additional tests carried out in Mexico City. Might have to wait several days for them to come through. Many thanks to all those who sent concerned messages and good wishes. Does help to know others are with us and helps Cathy. Must say that the Paramedics were very efficient and gave encouraging assistance. Eduardo top-man.

Friday 13/03/2020: Biding time in Escondido and not much else to do but go for walks along the beach and join the fishermen and take photos of the area. It is a shame that some magnificent, exotic fish are caught, some very large like the sailfish pictured below.

Sunday 15/03/2020: Can only say that we could be in a much worse place. Came across some props from 'Star Wars' and other interesting objects... (see photo archive) also had problems crossing a bridge where one had to arrange your own planks to enable passage. Not so good on a bike!

Monday 16/03/2020: Disappointing news. The Darien is closed and the borders between Mexico and Guatemala also shut because of coronavirus. Is this the end of the adventure?

Maybe a warning as Cathy definitely not up to rough riding at the moment and my health not too good either. Years of hard and challenging riding has taken its toll. We will both be able to continue, in some time, through difficult terrain, after full recovery, and get back to adventure mode.

Making supplication statue to the Gods for guidance.

Wednesday 18/03/2020: My brother's birthday today. Lives in Swaziland and due to fly to the UK but prevented as flights cancelled. Coronavirus again. Hard luck Simon but best wishes to you.

As he is an artist and cabinet maker decided to compose my own Tate Modern entry for him

Fishing today. Caught Bonito. Noticing Corona now for first time. People wearing surgical gloves and masks, all foreigners leaving. Surprise, and out of the blue skies above, my Africa travel buddy turned up with his wife Elyse, and children, Iris and Wallis, all the way from Canada so great reunion. After celebrations went fishing with him.



Tuesday 17/03/2020: Planning the 1444 kilometres to Belize (closest open border) to renew bike papers and passports then Cathy Nel and I will sit this out in Mexico. Our papers are going to run out on visa and bike and will lose the bike so necessary to ride to Belize which is the closest. Guatemala not doing any paperwork at border and USA too far to make and in chaos.

Colombia and a few countries have reports of beating up foreigners because of Corona. Including 61 year old biker woman friend of ours. We will have to try get legal and sit here. I will attempt to ride solo as Cathy not well enough to accompany me..

Thursday 19/03/2020: About to set off for Belize but checked news of border crossings only to discover that Santa Elena closed into Belize so no escape for sure. No borders open and we are the only foreigners here as any tourists flew out last week. Local People are cool.

Just thought I'd post the notice below as a confidence booster in times of crisis.

Good luck in the next few months to all. Respect. Love.

That's about all for now. May as well adopt Escondido as home.

COOL CATHY

Wednesday 04/03/2020: What can one say! It has been a distinct worry over the past few days as from Cathy feeling unwell it escalated into being admitted to hospital in Escondido and undergoing tests for all types of health problems and suspected to have those as listed in the previous LOG. She had become very weak and suffering high fever and breathing problems. After blood tests and being put on a drip the doctors admitted that they did not have the facilities to treat her at the local clinic/hospital and advised immediate transfer to Mexico City.

An airlift was arranged from Escondido airport and one of the doctors who had been treating her flew to Mexico City to arrange for admittance to hospital there. On board the flight Cathy had to have oxygen but of the two bottles on board one did not work and the other was nearly empty.

One amusing incident as a result was that all the passengers were looking worried and some fearful. I spoke to a nearby American and told him that she did not have coronavirus and that it was a lung infection. He immediately stood up and in a loud voice announced, 'The lady does not have coronavirus but has a lung infection.' Everybody cheered and smiled and wished her luck!

We arrived at Mexico City Airport and two Mexican Stewards insisted on carrying Cathy down the steps to a waiting ambulance. They had a great struggle as they were not the tallest of Mexicans!! However Cathy was deposited into the ambulance looking a little high on oxygen and we shot off to the hospital without going through customs or any checks. A new route for drug smugglers!

Once in the hospital Cathy was admitted to ITU and after extensive examination was given more antibiotics and blood tests. Two days in ITU and with more drugs Cathy improved and consequently on the third day was told she could return to Escondido under the care of the local doctor and to await the results of the latest tests. Suffice to say Cathy was diagnosed with several parasite infections, lung fungus and toxoplasmosis. Other infections are probably present. She is now walking and talking. Needs to get strength back so will stay here in Escondido to be sure of recovery.

Lastly on the flight back Cathy managed some plane destruction. Safety frame of a window as a souvenir.

Monday Now 09/03/2020: Thanks to everyone who sent get well messages to Cathy. I will post some more news soon.

MAKING TRACKS TO PANAMA

Tuesday 25/02/2020: Still in Manzanillo and now run out of options for making it to Panama other than by Yamaha. No boats, flying out of the question and rockets fully booked. So now must get prepared for 4000k by bike to The Darien, Still determined but have to make it as quickly as pos on the Trans-Am Highway!!! Not my choice of riding.

Wednesday 26/02/2020: Made good time to just north of Acapulco. 300k today of fairly easy riding in 28 degrees. Found a place with esoteric choice of drinks and snacks as notice outside announced. A Michelada is made with beer, lime juice, assorted sauces, spices, tomato juice, and chilie-peppers. It is served in a chilled, salt-rimmed glass. There are numerous variations of this beverage throughout Mexico..

If that does not appeal you can try Michamoy which is a sweet and sour sweet. The mixture of chilies and spices that the chamoy contains is a favorite in Latin America. Lesbiana seems to mean wine served for women in an ornamental flagon, not the women but the wine. Anybody clarify this? Did not research the other offerings!! Didn't risk any of them as looked a bit dodgy.

Thursday 27/02/2020: Now not far from Puerto Escondido Oaxaca District. Army and Police Roadblocks everywhere. Must be something going on but nothing in the news. Had to stop for questioning. Cathy took her gloves off to pay a toll booth fee and the Police nicked them. Mine also 'disappeared' from a tree where I was drying them out. Would you Adam and Eve it!!

This super quiet woman. Today marks 100 000 kilometres (two and a half times around the Equator) that we have been on this motorcycle together and that does not include our previous bikes. She changes top and bottom fork bearings, drains the oil, checks the coolant, changes tyres and plugs, replaces brakes, hates bad tyres and on it goes. Oh! and films and goes on every terrain possible. She can ride! But keeps quiet about it all.

I love it and hope you do Cathy Nel. Lucky I brought my primary school chair from Kenya so she can pay attention to teacher!!!!

Met some very pleasant 'chaps' who sat and chatted for hours and hours and hours making sure all fine for us. Would-be Protectionistas. Great guys who provided mixed advice and directions.

Friday 28/02/2020: Riding south but slow going as bike giving problems. Will need to send for parts from the UK. Stopped in a tunnel for a while to find some relief from the heat but in rather surreal surroundings. Star Wars!

Saturday 29/02/2020: In Escondido and Cathy not feeling well, may have to go to a clinic if fever doesn't ease. Escondido is a port town on Mexico's Pacific coast in the state of Oaxaca and has many beaches and a vibrant nightlife. The town's central Principal Beach is lined with palm trees and thatch-roofed bars so is a pleasant place to stay for a few days.

Sunday 01/03/2020: Another Month… Had to get to a Hospital as Cathy still unwell. After many tests by very competent Doctors she was diagnosed as having Dengue fever which she probably contracted several days ago in a place where we camped out on a beach. We thought at the time it was strange as it was deserted, although plenty of thatched places.

We were bitten in the night by mosquitos and later learnt that the area had been abandoned because many inhabitants had caught malaria there. We are stupid travellers!! Now we have to remain in Escondido for at least fourteen days, perhaps longer, for Cathy to recover.

Dengue fever is a disease caused by a family of viruses transmitted by Aedes mosquitoes. Symptoms of dengue fever include severe joint and muscle pain, swollen lymph nodes, headache, fever, exhaustion, and rash. The presence of fever, rash, and headache (the "dengue triad") is characteristic of dengue fever. Dreading coming down with it myself. Cathy being very brave and stoical as usual.

Finally for this log a picture of Puerto de Acapulco, which we passed through, to provide an idea of what it was like for early explorers. Hope to give good news of Cathy next time. Spencer.

POSTSCRIPT FROM CATHY: “I have so many stories to write and catching up to do but things are moving fast and all is going crazy... excuses... excuses

So we are rushing towards Bogota to make our flight home for Christmas and Spencer is in hospital with Malaria. Yes that's right. Not the man flu that someone joked he may have, which I'm being blamed for now lol, but full blown Malaria!

Just a couple of weeks ago we were sitting in a camp on the border of Venezuela and Brazil where Malaria, Zika and Dengue Fever were still going strong. This photo though not the very best but appropriate for this tale could possibly be the very spot Spencer was infected. I shall keep you updated”

MOVING ON

Thursday 20/02/2020: 20022020 coded message behind the date. But you won't find.

Still in Manzanillo waiting for news of possible boat to take us down the coast but cannot sit and wait without some activity so out exploring. Some days riding is superb. This was one as we saw some amazing wild life, manta rays, whales and iguanas. WOW!

Full update on plan ahead on Motorcycle Men Radio tonight. Will post link. Cathy Nel and I are good. Sometimes the delays are a big part of the journey. To be a successful doctor you need a lot of patients / patience but sometimes they escape.

Friday 21/02/2020: Have now received certificate of authorisation as below from the Governor of the Darien Province so many thanks to Mr Alvaro Bristan Ruiz. This was a worry and could have been the biggest obstacle to our Darien challenge!!! Full steam ahead, literally as it looks as if we have a boat to take us to Panama but from Vera Cruz so another 1000 Ks on bike. We will persevere.

Sunday 23/02/20: 5.40am here and constant problems with sleeping. Waking at various times during the night and no chance of going back to sleep. Too many things keep jumping into my mind. Constant change of resting places does not help. Found another luxury hotel with free rooms, but extras as follows, charges in dollars. Bed 20, Bed linen 20, Mosquito net 20, Water from well 20, outside loo 20, Room key 10, Service charge 10, WIFI (when available) 100. So no problems then!!!!

Monday 24/02/2020: Had to wait for bike check in a section of about twenty such parking areas. All trying to get bikes somewhere. Sure you can recognise the Tenere by now.

Rode through Tequila region with agave plants for miles. Juice from the core of the plant is used to produce agave nectar - a sweetener often used in food and drinks as a substitute for sugar or honey. Fibres can be extracted from the leaves of this plant and used for rope, matting and coarse cloth, like the sisal plant of Africa. The area around is volcanic and has slightly treacherous dirt roads where I twisted my ankle. Swollen but not injured!

Have received these documents to enable us to venture through the Darien so have tabled a copy of the authorisation from the Governor which states that the most high grade respect and consideration must be given to Spencer Conway. A great commendation!!



Met a biker riding to eternity so needed supplies. I wished him luck. See the laden bike in photo archive!

Still no more news so Manzanillo is becoming a staging post for now. Adios. Spencer

RIDING THE WRONG WAY

Sunday 02/02/2020: Why what's the buzz, what's happening? Delay after delay! Once again change of plan as at the border between Mexico and USA we were told that we could not fly the bike from LA to Panama City as there is a ban on freight to Panama.

Monday 03/02/2020: Decided to back track and ride the bike from Mexicali south down the coast to Mexico City and fly from there. Not happy but have to go with the flow. Another 2000 ks on the bike.

Tuesday 04/02/2020: Still in Mexicalli but preparing to ride south probably on new bikes,

Friday 07/02/2020: Fairly easy ride down to Puerto Penasco, a distance of 300 hundred ks, also known as Rocky Point. It is a Mexican fishing and tourist halt on the Gulf of California known for dune-backed Sandy Beach and Bahía la Choya's tidal pools. Also a center for the Study of Deserts and Oceans. Close by is desert and a volcanic range.

Wednesday 12/02/2020: Made it to Mazatlán which is a Nahuatl (Aztec) word meaning "place of deer." The city was founded in 1531 by an army of Spaniards and indigenous settlers.

In the mid-19th century, immigrants arrived from Germany and developed Mazatlán into a thriving commercial seaport, importing equipment for the nearby gold and silver mines. During the struggle for independence it was a gathering place for rebel militias.

Mazatlán is known for being the hometown and center of Banda sinaloense, a musical genre which blossomed in the XIX century and is now one of the most popular music genres in Mexico. There are early depictions of Nahua singers from Aztec records showing the love of music in the culture of the region. We are now in practice mode for the next concert! Costumes nearly ready.

Friday 14/02/2020: In Tomatlán "Tomato land" or "place of tomato" south of Puerto Vallarta. The final episode of Yann Martel's novel Life of Pi is set in the town where the character Pi Patel reaches land after his epic 'voyage' across the Pacific Ocean in an open life boat, in the company of a tiger.

Monday 17/02/2020: We are in the hills outside Tequila, yes the one of the famous drink. Absolutely beautiful. Went into the town today so visit the photo archive for some touristy shots. For fifty kms riding to the town only blue agave cactus fields.

The town has colourful, ultra clean streets and impressive houses. Inhabitants are proud of their open spaces and churches. Artists adorn the buildings with imaginative and brightly painted murals. Some probably the result of some glasses of the local drink.

Wandering around the town came across a sculpture of a raven on the same day as my mother had her book published the title of which is 'Mind the Raven' for which she sent a copy of the title page. Amazing coincidence. The book is available from YouByYou books by Wendy Daphne Conway. Congrats mother!

Tuesday 18/02/2020: More bad news as we have been told that original quote for flying the bike from Mexico City to Panama City has been increased to £5200 which is beyond our means so will try to get a steamer from Manzanillo down the coast to Panama so riding to the port town. Need now to get lucky as time running out to make it to liaise with Darien Gap organiser, guides and porters.

Wednesday 19/02/2020: In Manzanillo and checking out steamers. Looks like a long voyage!!! But I expect without tigers for company, hopefully, but probably rats.

Tomatlan is to the north and Manzanillo to the south as you can see. Wait for further news. Best wishes to all. Cathy and Spencer.

MANACLED IN MEXICALI

Tuesday 21/01/2020: Some time since last post but I'm afraid not much to excite here as still stuck in Mexicali making arrangements to get bike and ourselves to Panama and then into the Darien. Isaac, our contact, is somewhere in the jungle so is out of range of any electronic equipment. When we get there depends on completing documentation and acquiring further permits so keeping fingers crossed and hoping it all pans out.

Wednesday 22/01/2020: Kicking heels so thought I would pick up some reading material, not actually pick up but locate from my notes somewhere. This will bore you and make you think I've finally lost what marbles I had left. Anyway this next entry is from 'A Journey to Brazil in 1932' by Evelyn Waugh who was able to travel to many regions of the world when it was more challenging than to day and needed a certain stupidity to venture into the unknown.

"For myself and many better than me, there is a fascination in distant and barbarous places, and particularly in the borderlands of conflicting cultures and states of development, where ideas, uprooted from their traditions, become oddly changed in transportation. It is there that I find experiences vivid enough to demand translation into literary form."

Waugh was warned by inebriated colonialists not to venture into the interior of Brazil as he would be certain to be 'attacked' by deadly insects and hacked to death by natives. Nevertheless he did venture into the Amazon regions travelling on foot, dug-out canoe and a varied assortment of beasts. He survived and noted his escapades in several literary records.

Well worth reading!

Of course he is well known for 'Brideshead Revisited'. 'Any way goodbye to all that.'

Friday 24/01/2020: Had a visit by group of bikers touring in Mexico, the Charros Bike Club and had a great time with them. Bikers are supper buddies.

Am now receiving humorous comments and pics about the Darien. Alternative transport and high class accommodation!

I have been informed that FARC are experts at picking up cell phone signals, GPS etc so when we are in the GAP I will be out of contact. Isaac says all electronic devices must be switched off from Yaviza to Turbo.



The direct distance as the condor flies, and we crawl, is 160 kilometres of Gap but before and after is tough too. 160 kilometres but with zig zagging and following river systems. Isaac says it is around 300 kilometres of jungle. So 20 kilometres a day would be fifteen days but he says between 20-30 days to get to Colombia from Panama side. Many streams and one wide river to negotiate.

Monday 27/01/2020: Heyho. Not moving so spent time servicing the bike and writing my next book. Cathy still cheerful although not much for her to do here. Spends time looking for interesting scenes to photo. This one I took as she does not get too many of her on the web site but her face book page has many hits.

Tuesday 28/01/2020: Another interesting snippet of information is that after Columbus's discovery of America (Disputed) in 1492, Pope Alexander VI issued a decree dividing the New World between Portugal and Spain along an imaginary north-south line west of the Azores. This gave Brazil to the Portuguese and to Spain any discoveries west, hence these areas became Spanish speaking. Now you know!

Lastly preparing for the Darien so travelling in Disguise.

Adiós tienen un gran fin de semana.

DARIEN

Wednesday 15/01/2020: Just been contacted by agent in Colombia to make plans for attempting the Darien Gap so I am the most excited man in the world. This has taken two years of planning and many ups and downs but finally we believe that all is coming good.

For those who are unaware of The Darien Gap it is a break in the Pan-American Highway consisting of a large area of undeveloped swampland, forest and jungle, almost impenetrable in parts, and inhabited by very inhospitable creatures with wicked intent.

It is within Panama's Darien Province in Central America and the northern portion of Colombia's Choco Department. Very few have attempted the route we intend to take and Cathy is probably the first woman to attempt the crossing.

Thursday 16/01/2020: Made it to Mexicali on the Mexico/USA border. We are now making arrangements for the next stage of our 'adventure,' trepidation , but determined. Five days more through the desert and five days on Cargo ship to Colombia, then Darien Gap , scheduled for March 12.

Porters, food supplies, dugout canoes, guides are all booked, at a cost, so finances are strained. Anyway onwards and upwards.

At present we are traversing 2200 kilometres of Mexico back-roads to build fitness. It's tough, very tough, but wonderfully difficult roads making us a little more aware of what we are going to have to face, of course nothing like the Darien!!

Cathy Nel and I are ready for the challenge. Clothes have been sponsored for the jungle.

Friday 17/01/2020: We rode absolutely crazy roads then saw a shack selling coffee. The tables had spittoons on them and waitresses were dressed attractively. No jokes! There were fifty hillbillies in cheque shirts, all over seventy with grey hair, pony tails and their jean belts around their chests. The wives were drunk and it was amazing, awesome, incredible. Seriously, they were amazing people and the eating house and food was better than the Ritz! (more images in the archive)

One Botox lipped lady saw me photographing a prosthetic leg on the wall and said "Geez! Mr South African, we have five people here with one leg. There is Bob (excellent name for one legged man) John, Peg Leg and Peg Leg 2". I was trying to keep a straight face when she said "Sorry, hang on a minute. Dwayne lost his leg last week so that makes one more". We made a rapid exit from there and declined offers of engine oil, beer, wives and husbands.

Saturday 18/01/2020: Further north, and totally unexpected, saw the carcass of a plane in the desert. Fuselage, cockpit and tail in separate pieces. WHAT? Learnt later that it was a film set for an 'adventure' movie. Would you Adam and Eve It?

POST SCRIPT

My bestselling book 'The Japanese Speaking Curtain Maker' is also now an e-book. So can be downloaded to electronic equipment.

If anybody who has read 'The Japanese...' and thinks it is an exciting, gripping, humorous and enthralling manuscript and would be willing to write a review for Amazon or Waterstones please feel free to do so, could make me a millionaire!!! Reward to the most outstanding eulogy!

Also, I've nearly completed my book on South and Central America 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' which hopefully will attract a publisher.

Life is great. Keep checking out the website and sorry I cannot accept any more friend requests, those 400 spaces are done but please follow. I would love it.

And lastly, Cathy has another new friend...

Keep checking out the Photo Archive, Video and Radio sections on my web page for more new material and barracuda sandwiches are tasty!

ON THE ROAD AGAIN

Monday 06/01/2020: Still heading north through Mexico and making fairly good progress to the USA border.

As before some very difficult terrain and deserted roads. Rocks and stones and dangerous surfaces. Many dead animals all the way. Shame.

Wednesday 08/01/2020: Suddenly came to signs of habitation, a clinic, on a road from nowhere to nowhere... tried to find some humans but looked as if all the doctors had abandoned and the patients had escaped. Found a waiting room with suspect medical equipment. Shouted and hooted but nobody responded.

Thursday 09/01/2020: A most incredible day. which started with a one hour interview with Adventure Rider Radio. They also asked Cathy for an interview Super guys at the station. We got on the road again and hit 150 000 kilometres on the bike. What a machine this Yamaha is!!

Believe it or not we saw a grey wolf footprint, did not know what it was at the time, but spied one looking at us from the bush. Magnificent creature, he loped off when we moved so no photo. Pity. Look at the size of its paw compared to Cathy's hand. We emailed Mexican wildlife and they confirmed it and were shocked. They are more rare than a Bobcat!!!! There are about 100 grey wolves survive in Mexico, that they are monogamous and mate for life. Important to protect them.

Friday 10/01/2020: After more difficult riding I hit a rock and we both came off the bike. Chain snapped so had to wait up overnight for rescue. Bitterly cold and not too happy. Fortunately a local Mexican came wandering along the rocky path and said he would organise a truck for us. Did not think it possible but a small pick-up appeared after a couple of hours and the bike was loaded and we were taken to a small village where I managed to repair the chain and get on the 'road' again. It was quite an expensive breakdown. Now need further insurance.

Saturday 1/01/2020: Easier riding today as we got to a main road. At a fuel station we met a bunch of bikers who knew me and wanted autographs. They are buying my book and DVD to show at their bike club in Mexico City. Nice to have chatted to them and wish them well.

Sunday 12/01/2020: An easier day on roads skirted by thick vegetation and views of mountains. Did see a strange sign of a four legged beast with walking shoes on its feet!! Probably an extinct species. Will check it out with Darwin's records.

Had a couple of nightmares as I was appearing in a HORROR film and being swallowed by a demon woman. No comments please. photo archive has evidence of the dream.

Monday 13/01/2020: Another day and all well. Where are we going? NO IDEA!
Till next time... Spencer and the important one..

TWENTY-TWENTY HERE WE ARE

Wednesday 17/12/2019: With conflicting reports regarding the Darien Gap and continued troubles in Venezuela and also problems with finding a ferry to take us from La Paz to mainland Mexico, we are beginning to think that the gods are against us.

Saturday 20/12/2019: We have made little progress with 'escaping' from La Paz so have decided to head northwards to research for an article for Overland Magazine. Traverse Magazine has also asked for some copy and then it looks as if we will have to ride to the Mexican border and probably head for LA. At present fighting for refund of ferry because cheaper to ride than wait till 14th just in case we can catch a ferry.

Tuesday 24/12/2019: Headed off today. Trying only back roads but tough as hell. Deep sand, river crossings from one bank to another and sometimes deep water but so beautiful. Cathy had to search for a route through.

Lots of TARANTULAS AND SCORPIONS, one of which fell out of Cathy's jacket pocket after she had left it on the ground for a while. Nasty fellow, brown and ugly. Go to my facebook page to see a short video of Terry the Tarantula.

Saturday 28/12/2019 to Tuesday 31/12/2019: The aim is to do the 1460 kilometres of the Baja on back roads and paths only which is probably a first in the bike world. Tried before but chickened out.

Two incredibly rough but wonderful days with river crossings, sand drifts and boulders. Should do in two weeks. This route is not for the fearful or careless.

Met two Americans and got chatting. They recognised us from my interview with Adventure Rider Radio. Went through a cloud of butterflies for ten kilometres. Vibrant colours and some about 12 centimetres wing span.

Unfortunately came off the bike twice on probably the easiest section but we jumped clear. It was fatigue after many hours of shingle and rough roads.

Wednesday 01/01/2020: You will be pleased to know that I landed on Cathy Nel so I am OK. A soft landing. Just been through river-so clean. Slippery tyres-my excuse. Heading towards Darien Gap, not quite given up as yet but running out of time before the rains set in, and a certain permit, but onwards and adapt. Hope everyone's New Year is good so far. Smoked Marlin is superb.

P.S. I will visit Cathy in hospital after my shower and let you know the progress. But never fear. She is tough. Joke. Cathy is fine. Respect for the real deal too - Dakar riders and the Africa Eco Race started a couple of days ago. Good luck to all the guys and girls. I will attempt someday but not on my Yamaha as I have ridden a distance of nearly four times around the equator on this bike now.

I continue to receive some complimentary reviews so have included one below from Tom Lally who is a biker and writer. Nice to be appreciated by a fellow traveller. Thanks Tom...

'Having read most of the motorcycle adventure books over the years and being nomadic myself, I am truly impressed by Mr. Conway's volume. His use of the English language and descriptions of living on the road are insightful, humorous and I find the book difficult to put down. Even when the chips are down he finds the good side of everyone. Not so easy sometimes. Africa has much more varieties of peoples and places than you can imagine, and Spencer explores them all.'

Friday 03/01/2020: Cathy has a new friend so I am now out of favour. Could say I am in the 'dog house'.

i have uploaded some more pics on the photo archive page but I have included this one here of an eclipse as it reminds me of my Africa adventure.

That's about all for today so baked beans and chilli sauce.

WHERE ARE WE GOING?

Tuesday 10/12/2019: Stlil in Mexico.

Sometime since last entry but problems with internet been over the hills and far away! Tried to follow desert road but began to lose track of time and reality. Cathy hit me on the head several times before we ended in a cactus bush. Maybe because strength fading as cannot eat hot food just makes me vomit. Must have picked up a bug. Need to find a place for blood test. Not complaining but seeing alien creatures not good for sanity.

Looking for cactus needle to administer blood test. Saw an Indian Elephant so something drastically wrong.

Thursday 14/11/2019: We are leaving in the next few days on a Cargo Ship from Pichilingue to Mazatlan. Then ride to Manzanilla south to try and get bike on boat to Colombia from where we can fly.

Saturday 16/12/2019: Rode to Pichilingue at 1.25 am. All went well!! Got to Pichilingue at 6.00am and waited with a bunch of changeover crew.... And waited. The ship was impounded by Mexican Customs so that's that. A woman official at the Port informed us that there were no more boats to the mainland till 14th Jan. Will go back tomorrow after some sleep and trawl the port for possible cargo boats to take us on board.

On the way to the port followed a rapid delivery service courier who took us by express route (five mph) to dockside.

Sunday 17/12/2019: No Luck. Stranded! Have to keep happy so visited the Bob Marl.......in fish restaurant to make the most of a bad day. Have been told that the biggest risk we face on Christmas Eve is the bullets falling from the sky. Apparently at the stroke of midnight every Mexican shoots his gun by way of celebration at a time of peace and goodwill to all men!! Viva Mexico.

Little more to add as seeking ways to get on our way by any means but for those interested click on the link below to listen to an interview I did for Under the Visor, Adventure TV. Some of you may have picked this up on social media channels. It covers my Africa circumnavigation so will be familiar to many.

Finally my book is receiving some excellent reviews so still time to buy for Christmas presents. Happy festive season to all and to my friends and family special greetings, love Spencer and Cathy.

FOLLOW THIS LINK for a biref interview on Under the Visor Adventure TV on you tube.

CHANGE OF PLANS

Saturday 23/11/2019: Looks as if we will have to make a decision. Darien Gap is too problematic at the moment as the whole region is in a state of unsteadiness. Colombia suffering from the major troubles and disturbances in Venezuela, refugees and asylum seekers pouring into the country. Those who can afford to seek domicile in countries further afield are doing so and leaving houses and possessions behind. Desperate for all. Mexico is feeling the effect, and also from the increasing operations of the drug cartels. President Trump has declared that they be classified as 'terrorist'.

Will have to leave La Paz as becoming too costly and need to make a move.

Monday 25/11/2019: La Paz threatened by storms in the last few days so dark skies overhead.

Colombia is mayhem. Cutting losses and heading across to Mazatlan by ferry then on through Copper Canyon and down to Mexico City as soon as extensive and expensive dental treatment done. Must be age but the teeth collapsed quickly. Need three crowns, one implant, two extractions. All the rough riding has shaken my body to pieces.

When new appearance is complete and we will head for India!!! Hopefully!!

Weather better so wandered through some nearby streets and came across a car waiting for its M.O.T. and an inviting Chinese 'Restaurant'.

Wednesday 27/11/2019: Time to put some thoughts on the journey I and Cathy have taken. If we were meant to stay in one place we would have roots and not feet. The danger and wonder of adventure is worth a thousand days of ease and comfort. Live your life by a compass, not a clock. Do not take life too seriously, you will never get out of it alive. This is my philosophy. Have a great day and eat more Mackerel.

Thursday 28/11/2019: Dentist wanted to charge a fortune for treatment. Too, too expensive. Will just have to suffer and get 'repaired' elsewhere.

Friday 29/11/2019: Travelling down to ferry point and had a rest at a bus stop. They provide better settees than I had at home. Also not seen a stop like this in Ashford. Probably wouldn't last long!

Once again some challenging riding through 'rocky terrain', mud and river bed.

Saturday 30/11/2019: Hit the coast road and some safety aware bike riders. Latest line in helmets and how to lose your head, two for one no doubt!!!

If anyone is travelling this way to get to the mainland I learnt that the Internet says no availability for ferries from LA Paz to Mazatlan. But if you go directly to the port they do have tickets. More importantly the 17 hour trip is 400 pounds for Bike and two people. However if you hang around the port you can go by cargo ship for 180 but it takes 23 hours, which we have decided to do.

Bike gets strapped down and we sleep on deck which is fine as it is 30 degrees. No piracy in this area so should be exciting. Also note that they treat mainland Mexico as a different country to Baja so need all bike papers in order and TIP (temporary import permit) for six months otherwise the bike is impounded.

Sunday 01/12/2019: Another month and still on the road but things mot panning out well as the bike needs major repairs. It has travelled thousands of kilometres and carried two people for over half its life. It is now time to nurse it onwards to the horizon. It has been a companion for ten years and begs for TLC to keep it going. Also my dream of traversing the Darien Gap is now over for the present. Politically impossible to arrange in the present circumstances in South America so now on the back-burner.

India? Still in my plans but in need of sponsorship to boost finances as the last year has proved to be more expensive than originally estimated. My fault, perhaps, but could not have visualised so much turmoil in this part of this amazing area of the world which has caused major changes to itinerary.

Lastly Paddy Tyson has included a review of my book in the latest Overland Magazine. I feel he has got it bang-on so thanks Paddy and hope you will be able to pen another for my South America book when it is published. For those interested in reading Paddy's review click on the link below.

To read Paddy Tyson's review, hit this link

Until next log keep happy, Spencer.

LA PAZ AND CELEBRATIONS

Tuesday 12/11/2019: Still in the vicinity of La Paz as waiting for clearance to attempt Darien Gap. At present no movement on applications to allow access to the region so kicking heels. Botheration, but La Paz interesting and with attractive areas to ride through. Many murals and particularly like this one. 'Hand of Peace.'

Wednesday 13/11/2019: Must say found the Day of the Dead commemorative rituals a wonderful family gathering and super to remember the past ancestors and relatives. All involved, young and old, and dress and make-up so appealing. Even a riding buddie, Ron Bedard, made the effort to celebrate as you can see by the pic.

Friday15/11/2019: Went into the desert area and along the coast for a ride-out and came across some interesting relics and statues. Found an agricultural machine, cutting edge of the century, which century I don't know. And also a memorial to the "Real" Prince Felipe. Did Queen Isabel discover the origin of the jewel? Anybody know?

Sunday 17/11/2019: Discovered some edible delights! Strawberry 'sausage' rolls, strawberry cheese and food for fighters. To see what I'm talking about go to the photo archive. Also adopting a new image after eating food for fighters as per the pic.

Wednesday 20/11/2019: La Paz became a spectacle as it is Revolution Day. A super parade involving every one. Adults, children, horsemen, the army, police and all services. Lovely costumes, dancing and singing. Lots of happy people with smiling faces and all friendly. WE LIKE LA PAZ!



FOLLOW THIS LINK for interesting information about Revolution Day in Mexico... a good read.

That's all for now. View more pics in the photo archive page.

Best to all. Spencer

STOP PRESS

Tarantula in Attack Mode!

Halted for a pit stop and was 'approached' by this hairy beast!! Tried to attack my boot and then headed for the bike with another scurrying my way. No idea they could be so aggressive. They also move fast. Disappeared into the brush leaving a path behind them. Don't mind spiders but these were scary!


MAKING THE MOST OF MEXICO

Greetings again from Cathy Nel and I up the pole. Next... the North Pole. Have a great day and well done South Africa for winning the Rugby Union World Cup in Japan.

Monday 04/11/2019: Had a few electrical problems with the bike at night in Northern Mexico so had to posh it up in the nearest establishment.Up-market café. Strange menu, fried cactus, and meat, of a kind.

Tuesday 05/11/2019: Heading to Santa Rosalina on good tarmac roads and passed several run down shacks on the way in the middle of nowhere. John Wayne was rumoured to have had a gun fight at one of them!! Shoot out with Mexican bandits outside the one pictured below.

Wednesday 06/11/2019: Passed through the dusty town of Boleo known for its history of mineral mining. El Boleo ore mines were first operated in 1885 by the French company Compagnie du Boleo which obtained control of the site and began mining after receiving concessions by the Mexican president Porfirio Diaz. Diaz hoped that the mine would encourage development in the arid and unpopulated region. 1885 is also considered the official date of the town's foundation.

The extraction of ore from the mines was labour-intensive. Chinese, Japanese, Yaqui Indians and Mestizos were brought in as labourers but many died of illness or accidents as a result of the poor working conditions.

At the end of the 19th century, El Boleo was the Mexican capital of copper mining producing 11,000 tonnes of pure copper annually, about half of Mexico's total copper production.[At present, after ownership by several consortiums, it is held by a South Korean company. The pic below is one of the original engines used to transport the ore by rail to refineries.

Thursday 07/11/2019: Heading to the coast and making plans for the future. Will make the effort to tackle the Dakar Rally so new bike is being prepared. Super powered and fit for any terrain....as long as it remains static!! See pic of the MACHINE.

SLAUGHTER IN MEXICO

Just learnt of the dreadful massacre of families of Americans by presumed drug cartel gangs.

The families were ambushed by an armed group while traveling from the town of Bavispe in Sonora state to Galeana in Chihuahua state. The area where the attack took place -- less than 100 miles from the Arizona border -- is of territorial dispute by several cartels, and it's possible the family's convoy of cars was mistaken for one of them. Three women and six children were killed in the ambush. Eight other children survived the massacre and many were injured. One of them initially went missing.

To get the full story, hit this link

NO MORE TO SAY, EXCEPT VERY SAD. SPENCER

ON THE MEXICO BORDER

Friday 25/10/2019: Left San Ignacio and arrived in Catalina and from there will head to Mexicali.

Saturday 26/10/2019: Made it to Mexicali where Trump's famous border wall has its forbidding presence. We have to wait here to process Bike papers.

I took a walk down the border wall. There are shanty towns five metres from it. It is actually two walls, fifty metres apart, with razor wire on the USA side. There is also a man- made canal between the two as well as huge poles with at least 20 cameras on each one. There are watch towers too.

The Mexican side is lined with little pop up shops. The people have great spirit and endeavour to survive. Super friendly. Click on this link for pics of the WALL!!

We have managed to meet up with a superb Customs Officer called Pancho Villa. (Yes it's his real name!!) We no longer have to go into USA to renew bike papers which saves loads of time and money. Second Pancho Villa that's helped us, and a Jesus.

Plan is to stay three months, do paid desert articles, finish book on South America, get Cathy riding, get into gym and see how Darien pans out for March. Dangerous but just don't want to give up on it now. Will try teaching private English lessons as survival costs will leave us broke in three years.

To criss-cross the Baja through the desert you can avoid the main highways by following from small village to small village or by following canal routes. They are quite an 'evil' design actually, if you consider that they run through a desert that is scarce of water for the wildlife that live in it. It is enticing and easy to get to the canal water but to get out is another ball game. Needless to say I saw victims.

Back to tar is sometimes a pleasure. Sand is a killer with a load of 500 kilos, especially on the elbows with a floating bone chip near the joint. Fun and Ibupro-fun too.

Monday 28/10/2019: Bike going in today for new chain, new break pads, top and bottom steering bearings, new tyres, oil change, new air and oil filter. It's a very expensive life. If all goes wrong with Darien then boat to India.

The Day of the Dead celebrated last weekend when Mexicans dress up as "Catrina", a Mexican representation of death, and take part in a parade ahead of the day of parades. The character of La Catrina was created by cartoonist Jose Guadalupe Posada, famous for his socio-political criticism and illustrations of skeletons or skulls.

According to urban legend, La Catrina's roots come from Aztec death goddess Mictecacihuatl. In the legend, the goddess served the same purpose as La Catrina does today: to honour and protect those who have died and to symbolize the relationship Mexicans have with death.

Wednesday 30/10/2019: Will be heading back to La Paz in next couple of days to take stock of the situation as situation in South America is a bit 'iffy' at the moment. Just have to say that a well-known popular mag is following my progress... I don't believe it... and neither should you!!!

More pics on the archive. Have a ghastly, horror Halloween, but it will all be over by the time you read this. Best Spencer.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN

Saturday 12/10/2019: Hi to All

Sorry for the gap in the Log but since arriving in Mexico we have just been making plans for onward journey. Many admin issues to sort before getting the bike back on the road. Still up-in-the-air as far as the Darien is concerned. Conflicting reports from contacts and situation on borders. Still hoping to make the attempt but nothing definite as yet.

Monday 14/10/2019: Where are we? In La Paz and feeling at home with Austrian friend. Picked up bike and up and running and will head north in the next few days. Need to make a move.

Stayed a week after seeing doctor said I had a urinary tract infection but have taken course of antibiotics and it's the same. Hope this is not a sign.

Saturday 19/10/2019: Rode from La Paz and heading to USA because bike importation permit is about to expire. Will lose 400 dollars and bike otherwise. Will come back into Mexico and wait a week or two to see about Darien. If not off to India. Aim is in jeopardy because of shoulder, chipped elbow joint and testicle pain. Riding is tough. Cathy feeling the strain.

Managed hard riding through desert terrain and found a small town and found lodgings. Met six Canadian bikers on huge Harley Davidsons who had all fallen on the sand roads many times. They took us for street food and I gave them some lessons in sand riding. Hope it helps. Writing book. Going well.

Sunday 22/10/2019: In San Ignacio, very beautiful town with monastery of 1726. Very quiet and peaceful. This is a verdant, leafy date palm town with a pretty, tranquil river. Jesuits located the Misión San Ignacio de Kadakaamán here, but Dominicans supervised construction of the striking church (finished in 1786) that still dominates the picturesque, laurel-shaded plaza.

Five days to Catavina from where we are now.

Monday 23/10/2019: Hampered by extremely high winds and had to stop regularly so as not to get knocked off. No progress weather howling about and the banshees are threatening. During a lull some visitors in the trees made us feel welcome.

Hope to be on our way tomorrow. Please check more pics on the photo archive page.

DARIEN PREPARATIONS

Monday 30/09/2019: In Prague with Cathy visiting daughter Jessamine where she is working. Catching up on all her news of the past couple of years before returning to Mexico to pick up the bike for the next episode of our travels. Looks like we might be able to attempt the Darien Gap, in spite of the troubles there. So here are some thoughts and info on the intended 'trip.'

As with any dangerous and difficult expedition the Darien Gap planning is a complicated issue. The first problem to overcome is to find the right guide. I was fortunate enough to meet Isaac Pizzaro who is a guide for the Darien Gap and has more than 20 years of experience of the area. Because of its geographical location and political history complications abound. Firstly it is a stronghold for FARC rebels and without Isaac's connections it would be an impossibility. Armed posts would not allow us through alone. On top of this the Panamanian Government is not keen on letting anyone through.

The Darien Gap acts as a natural deterrent for people smugglers, drug smugglers and refugees. There is a continuing decline in the situation in Venezuela which has led to an exodus of more than four million people, one of the largest known forced migrations in history. Many are amassing in Colombia which makes the situation more difficult. This is all out of my hands and is Isaac's project to resolve. Furthermore Cathy Nel and I have to be fit. We both have medical issues from three years on the bike which need to be sorted. On top of this we need to Co-ordinate equipment and provisions for a month in the jungle. This includes ropes, pulleys, appropriate clothing, and enough food. Of course the bike needs to be in tip-top condition. This all takes time and once again our start date has to be postponed. Please bear with us people. A lot of factors must be right. Even a few days of rain or a flash flood can jeopardise the chance of success.

Just a few words about the Darient...

There are only a few places in the world that offer such a variety of natural habitats and wildlife as in The Gap. Located at the crossroads of the Americas bird species from both North, Central and South America find a suitable habitat. The Darien is Panama´s bordering region with South America and it shares an abundant and diverse wildlife reminiscent to that of the Amazon Basin. The Darien is the largest region of Panama, yet the least populated. This condition allows the Darien to boast one of the last vast tracts of primary forest in Middle America.

Deadly creatures and insects abound in the thick, almost impenetrable jungle and only the danger hunting and foolhardy adventure there. So we must be off our trolleys!!!

Wednesday 02/10/2019: Return from Prague after tearful farewell to Jessamine and meeting in the UK with Feaya. Both girls super, super and lovely and very sad to be leaving them once again. Preparations for return to America and phone calls to friends and family. Could not contact all before flying back to USA. Sorry people, had a lot more to discuss but will catch up by emails etc.

Friday 04/10/2019: To Heathrow by taxi at 4am Driver missed airport turn-off so good start to trip. Had to go via LA to get back to Mexico.

Sunday 05/10/2019: Arrived in Mexico and feel at home. Have specialist medical appointment on Tuesday as continued stomach pains. CT scan in the UK not very helpful!! Will see what examination brings. No more to report at present.

Love to all from Cathy and myself.

POST OVERLAND NEWS

Monday 16/09/2019: Not too much to add to the Log at present. Getting 'geared' up for the next bike episode and making contact with friends and bikers in the UK, and globally. Cathy has left me......gone to Prague to spend time with daughter Jesamine, who is working there. Actually she now officially has more hits on social media than I do so will have to have a word. Cathy posts the following:

"As you know we sold everything we owned including my clothes . It's rather quite liberating to own nothing but the motorbike and a pannier that can hold my worldly possessions. For example I'm in Prague freezing my butt off but I refuse to go shopping because I am extremely lucky to have a fabulous sponsor Jofama Halvarssons Lindstrands and an amazing designer in Ina Lombard MOTOGIRL UK who are keeping me clothed and safe and I shall be back in Mexico and 40°C soon... What does a woman on the road travel with? Well besides my underwear and sponsored gear, one vest one t-shirt, a pair of jeans, a cozzie, a dress and a pair of flip flops. Styling! No need for anything else. Well besides Spencers straight jacket range and gimp mask (which I'm working on) we will have some Spencer Vests which come with duct tape and cable ties. I will keep you posted. Love always."

Have been to Laguna Motorcycles in Maidstone, very tropical place just like some areas of Mexico, but don't believe all you read!! Great to have a chat with guys at Laguna and thanks for continued support. Hope you are recovering from your accident Simon (Neale) Always nice to go there for advice and help and to 'inspect' the new bikes. Impressed by the Triumph range but not suitable for my kind of riding.

Also just to say Cathy has a Triumph Motorcycle jacket for sale, leather in good condition. Not used that often as it was only worn in the UK for the occasional ride. Price £150. See adjacent pics...

Wednesday 18/09/2019: Visited Shaun Fenton of Diesel Films who lives about 30 mins from Biddenden and chatted for a couple of hours. Promised to make a Promo for my book so waiting for this to put on social media. Should boost sales but proud to report that I have received some flattering reviews of 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' and to say that the 'super, super incredibly readable, hilariously funny and unbearably poorly written book' is selling better than ice creams to the Inuits.

Thursday 19/09/2019: Busy on my computer writing articles for several magazines. Sending one to 'Overland Magazine' on latest trip around Central America. Thanks to Paddy, Saul and the crew who continue to hassle me, no, supporting me for ten years. Also for 'South East Biker' and John Allsop and to 'Bike Mag' and Lois Pryce. Will be writing regularly for woovly.com.

Have now become a 'celebrity' in Biddenden village, pop 2.......004! Full page article in the Parish Mag and photo of Cathy and myself in 'Biddenden in Pictures' publication. Great little record of life in the area. Now stopped by village maidens when walking to the local corner shop. Also free beer in 'The Red Lion' Pub. What more can one ask for?

CONTINENTAL CIRCUMNAVIGATION THREE

Having successfully circumnavigated Africa, South and Central America and Mexico the logical plan would be to continue into North America, Canada and Alaska. However the decision has been made to go with Asia. The reason is that it will be more gritty and unpredictable which is what I am really craving. It is also a huge expedition taking in over fourty countries and without mishaps will take two years.

I also have commitments with Motorcycle Outreach in India so will start from there.



The extra bonus is that I will meet Deepak Kamath, Deepak Gupta and Kamal Chopra, inspirational Indian Adventure Riders. Also meeting Bollywood Director so look out for me singing on a motorbike.

Till next time. Spencer

HOME NEWS

Thursday 05/09/2019: Busy organising arrangements for our next trip and attempting to manage book sales through the log and other outlets. Not a business man so some minor hiccoughs. Cathy works things out and usually finds a solution. Some problems remain but these should be resolved in a few days. My publisher, Anna, is giving advice and at present helping by selling through her web site, which we have a link to using the book cover graphics throughout the site.

Thursday 05/09/2019: Invited by BBC South East TV and Radio to conduct interviews on evening news and Ride Time with Natalie Graham, Rob Smith and John Warnett. Enjoyed being with super professional presenters. Both interviews seemed to go well as all made for a relaxed and open question and answer face to face. Both should be on the web site shortly.

Friday 06/09/2019: Just thought I would add a few more details about Motorcycle Outreach after our talk with Craig Carey-Clinch in London.

Motorcycle Outreach (MoR) is a registered charitable (non-profit) organisation which works to introduce effective healthcare delivery in remote areas of developing countries. Healthcare delivery in rural areas depends on reliable transport and the vehicles used need to be systematically selected and maintained. Motorcycle Outreach is a charity which assists governmental and non governmental organisations. Access to basic community healthcare is an essential and often forgotten need. Visits by healthcare professionals to remote villages monitors child health, and provides maternal and infant support and helps to raise community awareness of basic health issues. It carries out routine vaccinations and detects early signs of malnutrition. Reliable transport options greatly magnify the reach and effectiveness of existing healthcare professionals.

Motorcycle Outreach supports an established project in Indonesia. Health for All provides primary healthcare transport for a catchment area of over fifty thousand people living in over fifty villages.The Outreach programme will be extended to other countries that urgently need medical aid where it is difficult to service by government Agencies. Cathy and I hope to establish Outreach centres in India.

Sunday 08/09/2019: Happy to say that my book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' is selling well and reviews are coming in and this one from Andy Hudson is particularly welcome. Thanks Andy. Working on South America.

'Spencer, I finished the book on Friday. Its fantastic - funny (I dont often chuckle out loud reading a book!) but also addresses more serious issues. Youve captured the chaos, beauty, corruption and generosity that makes Africa the continent it is. A book Ill read many times, for sure. Now get your finger out and get one written for South America!'

Also Ian Harper wrote a long review so I include an extract:

'as he (Spencer) says early on in the book if you want to read about his choice of bike, tyres he used etc dont bother the joy in his story are the places he visits and the people he meets. His love of Africa and its people shine through and his quirky story telling will have you engrossed.'

Monday 09/09/2019: What can I say?!! Met up with a really heavy Dude in London, Deepak Kamal, Adventure Rider and Documentary Film maker whose exploits include the following. The first Indian biker to venture into the Antarctic, 51,000 KMS across 15 countries, 3 continents covered in 99 days, averaging 515 KMS per day without even a single breakdown, riding on some of the worlds most dangerous roads, the James Dalton Highway  Arctic Circle, the Pan-American section of the Atacama Desert, Chile, and the Death Road of Bolivia. Passed through The Loneliest Road to Coldfoot in Alaska, Tuktoyaktuk  land of the Pingos, Rocky mountain ridges of Canada, the mother road of North America and Route 66, and the Bolivian Dakar Rally desert roads. Meeting up again in India hopefully to massive media attention and successful project visits.

More next week. Keep reading. Spencer

BACK IN THE UK

Saturday 25/08/2019: What can I say about our journey back to the UK, place of birth and domicile, except that it proved more frustrating than crossing from one country to another in Central America. Immigration Officials at Los Angeles airport decided that we were entering the USA illegally and wanted to send us back to Mexico!! We had previously been advised that as we were in transit from Mexico to the UK, with onward flights booked, we could pass through without a visa and board our plane. NOT SO. Do not take advice without checking up-to-date info. We were told by a not so friendly immigration officer that we had to apply for a visa in order to abide by regulations. NO VISA, NO EXIT. We were put in a holding 'hanger' along with 400 other 'illegals' to be processed. After six hours in not very pleasant suroundings, and after the 400 had been processed, the Senior Immigration official, surrounded by his 'staff', decided to deal with us. With back and forth arguments he suddenly decided that he had 'had enough of us' and told us to go through to departures. It was fortunate that we had arrived very early in the morning for our night flight otherwise we would have missed the plane. Farewell America.

Monday 26/08/2019: Arrived back at Heathrow and then onward to Biddenden, Kent. From time of arrival it has been non-stop activity and planning. Firstly to arrange for TV interviews with the BBC and copy for newspapers. TV scheduled for 05/09/1019 and other meetings prior to The Overland Event.

Gareth Jones had this to say about the Overland Land event thanking Paddy Tyson and Saul Jeavons for the hard work they put in for organising the show. He also added a photo and comment about an insane chap. "I was having so much fun that I forgot to take any photos other than this one of Spencer James Conway on his way to the Darien Gap"

Had the honour of meeting Craig Carey-Clinch the 'eminence grise' behind the charity Motorcycle Outreach who asked if we would be interested in helping out with the organisation. Arranged for a meeting in London on Wednesday 04/09/2019 to discuss.

Monday 02/09/2019: Back to the thriving village of Biddenden and more non-stop activity after the hectic and enjoyable weekend. Great to meet so many lovely people. Many things to organise for future trips. Visas, new bike papers, bike spares and working the way through red-tape.

Wednesday 04/09/2019: To London to meet Craig Carey-Carey Clinch and pleased to confirm that I am the new Ambassador for Motorcycle Outreach. Please check out this incredible Charity of which Ted Simon is the Patron. Motorcycle Outreach works to introduce effective healthcare delivery in remote areas of developing countries. This is dependent on transport-vehicles used for this purpose that must be maintained and managed. M.O assists governmental and non-governmental organisations in this.

Cathy Nel and I will be heading to India next January to scout for possible new project sites. Very humbled and we will both throw our hearts into this. Firstly though, the small problem of conquering the Darien Gap. All plans going well at the minute.

Thursday 05/09/19: Enjoyed a successful interview with John Warnett on BBC Radio Kent who replaced my stalwart supporter Dominic King on the Drive Time Show. I left a copy of my book "The Japanese Speaking Curtain Maker" for Dominic and John invited me back on after the Darien Expedition. From there I rushed up and was interviewed by Rob Smith and Natalie Graham on BBC South TV. After the interview they both said they could have spoken to me for an hour and that they will get in touch with the One Show, so all round a wonderful day.

Both interviews will be available on the next LOG.

Hope you enjoy.

On a side note-what a beautiful city London is and what spectacular architecture and cultural diversity. Sometimes you have to travel far afield to appreciate what's on your doorstep.

ON THE WAY HOME

Monday 05/08/2019: Not much to report over the past few days. Have relaxed a little as very near return date to the UK. Probably leaving Mexico in a few days in time for the Overland Show. Hope to see some buddies there and have a chat and share some stories.

Tuesday 06/08/2019: Riding along the north Mexico coast and visited by a pelican that didn't take much notice of us. Looking for fish I think. Also Cathy decided to adopt a new image to impress local fishermen. Something in the water? Rumour has it that mermaids are to be found along the coast. Quite surprising really.



Thursday 08/08/2019: Was invited to join a trio of musicians but declined to wear the costume offered. They were preparing for a festival in Baja which was scheduled for the week end. Decided to stop there to savour the atmosphere.

Friday 09/08/2019: Arrived in Baja to find that the main part of the festival was a night/day car race/rally. So many adapted cars and outlandish vehicles. Crowds at the start and along the route. Caught up in the melee and asked to place bike on the start line!!

Have a look at the photo archive for pics of some hot-rods... and this one, police checking driving licences!!! NO. Only checking seat belts.

Monday 12/08/2019: Rally quite a spectacle but got lost before it began. Hopeless character. Need some map-reading training, I think the directions were confusing, but most entrants found their way to the start.

Now in shut down mode for a couple of days and then will head to Los Angeles as have booked flights to the UK from there.

Hope to see many of you at the Overland. There will be an Icon Link on my website soon to the sales point for my book but don't forget those of you who visit the Overland will have a chance to buy both my book and DVD at a reduced price for the pair.

Best to all. Spencer and Cathy.

Just a snippet on region through which we will be riding. It is only 230 kms from Mexicali to Los Angeles but will avoid main highways as far as pos.

Of course the USA Mexican border has to be negotiated so hoping no problems. Los Angeles County, officially the County of Los Angeles, in the state of California, is the most populous county in the United States, with more than 10 million inhabitants as of 2018.

As such, it is the largest non–state level government entity in the United States.

There is a mix of people who have found their way to the area from many countries and continues to do so.

Not likely to update in the next few days unless there is any very interesting news.
 
DESERT AND MORE DESERT

Wednesday 31/07/2019: Another new month tomorrow and already nearly a year away from the great metropolis of Biddenden. What can I say but continue to experience the weird and wonderful and the magic and misery of Mexico. Here there are the incredible sights of nature and also the indignity of human life caught in the trap of drugs and desperate existence. We have found abandoned vehicles along the way, with their own artistic appeal. Bargain Price! Buyer Collects! And exotic shrines built in areas without human habitation for miles.

We passed through Jesus Maria, a small town in the region of Los Altos about two hours east of Guadalajara, and on the way came into pirate country!! See skull and cross bones pic.

Thursday 01/08/2019: Signs of many dead animals along the trail and amazingly the most breath taking wild cat. Today was the day of all days. Mexico ! 1800 kilometres of desert riding in 6 days on the Tenere 700 and the absolute icing on the cake- a Lynx, or Mexican Bobcat, a solitary nocturnal animal. Walked across the road and into a dry riverbed.

Gave Cathy Nel and I the nod of disapproval for being in her spot before disappearing. Majestic. We are so lucky. Wildlife is tops.

Friday 02/08/2019: As previously mentioned we came across the scourge of the fringes of society in Mexico, cocaine!! It is not pleasant so will only include a photo of a crack house to avoid incriminating anyone. Let it be said that we have met many friendly Mexicans and experienced hospitality and helpfulness.

Saturday 03/08/2019: Deviated slightly to get to the coast and found a luxury pent house with outstanding views and hot and cold, mainly cold, running water, if you had a bucket. Hobbits Welcome. But also had a problem leaving the area as motorbikes not acceptable. Could not contact Huston so had to get it out under the excuse that it came in so why not let it out. NO PROBLEM SPINCER.

About all for now so thanks for comments on face book. Book on sale so check last log for link to purchase. Spencer and Cathy. More photos on archive. Bye.PS Been asked why it is a 700 and not a 650 Yamaha. Cunning adaptation in South America to increase size to cope with the circumnavigation.

Friday 07/06/2019: Rode from Vera Cruz in the north to Puerto Escondida. A total distance of 406 on tar roads 937 kilometres on dirt.

P.S.

129 countries of this stunning world. We have done it- would do it all again 2400 kms desert in total in the last few weeks - 141 000 kms . Made it to south of Baja so circumnavigation of Central America sorted. Africa circumnavigation done, South America circumnavigation done.

Cathy Nel and I need to face the infamous Darien Gap to join the dots. Before that, the wonderful Overland Event and then on. New book on Africa available straight after press launch at Overland. Love to all.

Chase your dreams or forever regret. Have a great day and keep checking the website for updates on Dakar etc... one chance only, do it!

AROUND NORTHERN MEXICO

Wednesday 24/07/2019: Once again slight gap in the Log but here is the latest. Have decided to tour this part of Mexico as it is outstanding and didn't want to miss anything. The cactus desert is worth several days exploring and sometimes abandoning the bike and just walking for a couple of hours. Strange finds and unusual formations. Can imagine ancient beasts roaming here not so many years ago. We actually travelled on the cheese and wine road for some way and then diverted into the unknown.

Thursday 25/07/2019: Continued, slowly, into desert region and had a pit-stop on the way. Automatic petrol fill up station, myself, but lucky to find miles from anywhere.

Saturday 27/07/2019: On our way into the wilderness, in 42 degrees, stopped several times and at one point after five hours of magical riding stopped for another rest and found GOLD. I am now a rich man!

Monday 29/07/2019: Back to semi-civilisation and habitation and to first-rate stop-over. Needed to rest so could not be choosy. Couldn't wait to see Olga.

Had a pleasant night but Olga did not appear. Apparently on extended siesta.

Tuesday 30/07/2019: The Tour de France has ended with the Colombian Egan Bernal the victor. These guys are super sportsmen and take it to the limits. Huge congrats to Bernal and to Uran and Quintana, also Colombian, for finishing in the top ten. Bernal only 22 and already a star. So youthful looking he could be arrested by the Police for drinking alcohol!! So to all my Colombian buddies 'Super felicitaciones'.

As said previously 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' is on sale so to get your copy CLICK THIS LINK >>

Hope you enjoy the read.

More details of last few days soon. And additional photos on the archive. Spencer.
 
USA ON THE HORIZON

Monday 15/07/2019: Sometime since been in touch but had a prang and damage to myself and the bike but all well now. Noticed that dates on the last log a little confusing but I think it is actually the fifteenth today of July. The sign below gives some idea of where we are.



So greetings from Spencer and Cathy in northern Mexico. Last few days have been a pleasure as we have been trouble free and making good progress on little used, stoney roads and in good weather.

Have covered a considerable distance through varied terrain, some lush greenery, alongside beaches and finally into the most inspiring desert so far, one of the best, toughest days on this trip. Did 473 kms on tar, backroads and sand.

Wednesday 17/07/2019: Hit the Sonoran Desert. WOW! What a place! This is in the top ten. It is cactus land. John Wayne across the horizon, but no horizon, only cactuses. There is an extraordinary variety of this species!! Some very tall as can be seen by the photo and one of the 300 of different varieties to be found in this wondrous landscape.

For some time we travelled with cactus desert on our left and sand dunes on our right. Some of the dunes are 600 ft high. Immense! The cactuses are used for food and drink, for roof coverings and many household implements. The Sonoran Desert is magical covering a vast area of Mexico and into Arizona.

On our way to the desert we passed by several shrines and some poorly maintained 'churches'. One with a metal bin nearby. Maybe for donations. Who knows? Also saw a Mexican pick-up truck that seemed to be needing some TLC!! And The Grim Reaper on a car bonnet.

Have to say that through all our travels over the last few months Cathy has been a remarkable support. Even in times of severe stress and danger. She deserves a gold star and a sombrero!! Below are the two faces of Cathy.

Saturday 20/07/2019: We are making plans to return to the UK in the next couple of weeks as I have to attend the Overland Show in Oxford next month from 29th of August, so hope to see some of you there for a get together.

Also many have been asking about the purchase of my book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker'.

Well, I'm proud to say that they are now hot off the press and delivered, details for the ordering and purchase will follow shortly. Contact me direct if you don't think you can deal with the suspense, but i will definitely have copies of both the new book and the DVD at the show.Take a look at my photo archive page for more pics.

Best to all, Spencer

HEADING TO THE US BORDER

Wednesday 10/07/2019: Sorry for the break in transmission. Technical problems in the wilds of Mexico and storm interference. Snow, hail, thunder and lightning!! Freak weather conditions prevented contact and progress. Settled down now and able to ride northward along the coast avoiding major roads and tourist areas. Have met some surfers on their way to the big rollers. All nice people and friendly hombres.

Mexico holds world championship competitions for surfers and guys come from all over the planet to engage in this dare-devil sport. Surfers do get injured and deaths sometimes occur. Mexico is a fantastic country for surfing. There's a huge variety of breaks and plenty of swell. Uncrowded spots can be found along the entire length of the Pacific Ocean coastline.

The waves can be surfed all year round, and the coastline is pounded with consistent surf. Mexico has over 6000 miles of coastline with over 1500 miles on the mainland Pacific. It is no wonder that some international championships are held here and many local surfers achieve iconic status. My attempts were applauded by... two children. El Spencer rides the waves but better on a bike!!

Friday 12/07/2019: Still heading north without incident except for a taxi that ran into the back of the bike and somehow managed to snap the Reg Plate!! Otherwise roads pretty clear and making good progress. Coastal road makes for super riding, sandy and fairly firm.

Sunday 14/07/2019: Wi-fi a problem as operating intermittently. Riding to Baja Northe and found a 'five star' hotel with a warning sign forbidding trying suicide, among other usual pass times.

Monday 15/07/2019: Stopped to buy a fish snack from an up-market vendor. Type one can see in Ashford, Kent, you know, the usual colourful exotic fish van for cod and chips with vinegar. Who wants octopus?

Not much more to add but my book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' about my circumnavigation of Africa is in print and details of how to purchase will be announced soon. Just has to be registered with the British Library.

Visit my photo archive page for more recent pics of travels through Mexico.

Spencer

MEXICO IN BRIEF

Monday 24/06/2019: Not much to report as just got the part to repair the brakes on the bike. Took five hours in 34 degrees to dismantle and replace with new part. C'est a vie.

As not much to report just some info on Mexico. Might be of interest.

Mexico is considered to be part of North America and is a large area of 2 million square kilometers. It has a population of 121 million of mixed races. It borders USA in the north and hundreds of migrants are attempting to get into the States, with tragic outcomes, by trying dangerous crossings. President Trump is not 'well' liked.

Modern Mexico is a fusion of two cultures as after the Spanish conquest in 1521 the Aztec and other local peoples mixed with the Catholic European culture of Spain. It was a colony of Spain for 300 years but after the Napoleonic wars Spain lost power and Mexico gained independence in 1821. Later the USA expanded its southern borders and annexed Texas and other areas thus creating the present land mass of Mexico which had lost nearly half its original size stretching from Texas to California. To note is that the Presidential Candidates for the next elections are campaigning using Spanish in the southern most states because of the large Hispanic population. Shades of history.

Over the last 100 years there have been a series of revolutionary uprisings against corrupt Presidents the most known by Emiliano Zapata and Pancho Villa in 1915-1917. During this Revolution over a million died and left Mexico in a state of collapse. Since then succeeding Presidents have struggled to repair the economy and stabilize the country.

Mexico is rich in all branches of the arts with colourful craft and a wide variety of artefacts. Colonial Spanish architecture dominates cities and towns and religious icons can be found everywhere. Modern examples of architecture also appear in many centres like the Museo Soumaya.

The exotic heritage of the Mayan culture in art, craft and dress enhances the artistic side of life in Mexico and dance and music add to the mix. Mayan temples and sculpture propel one back in time and bring to life the ancient and intriguing life of the Aztec civilization.



Mexico is also a country of diverse geographical regions and has two coast lines, the Gulf in the north and the Pacific in the west. It has mountains and forests, deserts and lakes and an abundance of sandy beaches with a tropical backdrop. And if you want a vibrant city Mexico's capital is there with a non-stop buzz.

Within the next few weeks my book on the Circumnavigation of Africa will be published so here is a pic of the cover.
 

More next week, hopefully on the way.

Sunday 18/06/2019: Problems this week as cannot source parts for the bike to refit brake caliper. My expert mechanical repair with duct tape and wire has failed me. Difficult to stop the bike without a back brake. Part will have to come from the UK so stuck in Escondido. Secondly my trusty tent is no longer up to standing tropical downpours so Cathy and I had to move to a luxury hostel as the monsoon season is throwing buckets from outer space.

More distressing is the bike panniers were jimmied from the metal brackets in literally seconds when it was parked up in the move to the hostel. Lost a lap top and notes for my book on South America, among other possessions. It is a pity that one has to be on guard all the time. The bike is now locked up inside the hostel passageway. Of course can happen anywhere but still a blow to one's trust in people!!!

Monday 17/06/2019: Where are we? Puerto Escondido which is "Hidden Port" in English, a small port and tourist center in Oaxaca only established as a small town in the 1930s. It caters to a more downscale and eclectic clientele than neighboring Huatulco, mostly surfers, backpackers and Mexican families. The main attractions are the beaches: Zicatela Beach hosts major surfing competitions, and the surfers who come here really are the best! Went for a swim in beautiful clear water but Cathy worried as I seemed to have disappeared.

The bay was known as Bahia de la Escondida (Bay of the Hidden Woman) and has an interesting story centered around it. A fierce pirate, Andrés Drake, brother of Sir Francis Drake, no less, anchored his ship in the bay when the area was completely uninhabited, to rest for a few days to escape naval ships patrolling the area.

Drake had previously abducted a young Mixtec woman who was held captive on his ship. Whilst at anchor in the bay she jumped overboard and swam to shore and then hid in the thick forests just beyond the beach. Since then, the pirates referred to the woman as "La Escondida" (the hidden one) and every time the ship returned to these waters, the captain ordered his crew to search the area around the bay, however, they never found her. Hence, the area became known as the Bahía de la Escondida. Simples!!

Friday 21/06/2019: Seems the part might arrive today. Fingers crossed so no real news. Twiddling thumbs. Just need to get on, not used to sitting around. Browsing the local touristy type shops.



More news next week. Hopefully on the move.

Firstly congratulations to Nick Sanders on the award of an MBE. Motorcycling adventurer Nick Sanders has been awarded an MBE for his two-wheeled explorations. Read more here at motorcyclenews.com.

Tuesday 04/06/2019: Still progressing north and beginning to feel the effect of Trump's crack down on the border of Mexico and USA. Many Mexicans heading up the country and making not too friendly comments about Americans. The border dispute is causing social, economic and political problems. Have to avoid trouble. Came across a statue resembling another American President. Guess who.

As a comment on the world today Google the reference below which I came across recently some of which reflects the sights I have seen on my journeys. This photo 'montage' juxtaposes contrasting pics to make for unsettling viewing so please have a look at this disturbing work. << Control/Click >>

Wednesday 05/06/2019: Making the most of first class restaurants on route and enjoying hospitality of people on the way. This place reminds me of some other high-class establishments I patronized in Africa.

Thursday 06/06/2019: Unfortunately still struggling with upper leg muscle injury after near crash. Caught the handlebar on a liana while off road and although I didn't come off, my entire right side was jolted and hence the struggle. Have just crossed from North to South Mexico in one day.

By it's very nature a circumnavigation is around the coastal areas as much as possible but in Mexico this is the most touristy area. So this section has been a bit of a zig zag to find the real Mexico and tough roads. We certainly found that, and the bike picked up a serious injury too. I hit a large rock and the brake caliper mounting snapped off. In the picture below you can see I fixed it expertly and rode another 512 kilometres. Can't really even see the repair. Get in touch if you need any tips. A great deal can be achieved with duct tape, cable ties, electrical cable and wire.

VENEZUELA

Latest info on Venezuela is that people are still suffering and the effect of the failure of oil supplies is having a knock-on effect on Cuba, a close ally of Venezuela, as the country relies upon oil from Maduro's regime. This is at a standstill so transport of goods and food is suffering. In Venezuela property prices have fallen by 50% as more people leave. It is estimated that over four million have left the country.

Friday 07/06/2019: Rode from Vera Cruz in the north to Puerto Escondida. A total distance of 406 on tar roads 937 kilometres on dirt.

Puerto Escondida is not touristy at all but is a huge draw for surfers. As soon as I arrived I went swimming to try and cool down from the bike gear in 33 degrees and was nearly washed to a watery grave despite being a strong swimmer. I then found out it is in the top five most dangerous beaches in the world and swimming is not allowed. Surfers ignore this and below is a memorial to a few of those Sons of the Sea that lost their lives in the pursuit of a 20 foot wave.

Not moved today as I have been fixing the bike all morning under a coconut tree on the beach (slightly different venue than Biddenden), as one does, and in that period of two hours four snapped in half surf boards have been washed up on shore, one surfer off to Hospital, concussion, one for facial stitches when hit by his own board. Total respect for these adrenaline junkies. Super fit, bed at eight, no alcohol. Not your run of the mill surfers, some of the world's best and it's a privilege to watch but must be off tomorrow, leg muscle allowing.

Neat sign on the beach to avoid castration.

An eighteen year old Bush mechanic(taller in Spanish) in Costa Rica called Chiky absolutely loved working on my bike and seems to have been a bit liberal with the tippex as have found his name hidden all over the bike. Great memory though as he was over the moon to have a spin on a 700cc.

Saturday 08/06/2019: Still have bike problems so no progress. Just confirmed form Paddy Tyson that I will be headlining this year's Overland Event on Saturday 31st August so come along to this super event. Details can be accessed at overlandevent.com.

See you there! Bye for now Spencer.

Wednesday 29/05/2019: Have been following a circuitous route over the last few days to avoid main tourist centres and to circumnavigate this area as far as possible so went west into Quintana Roo from Caribbean side AND to escape golf carts!!! But discovered the Police were following in their souped-up blue-bug mobile.

Quintana Roo is a Mexican state on the Yucatán Peninsula. On its Caribbean coast, the town of Tulum offers seaside Mayan ruins, sandy beaches and undersea caverns. To the northeast, the resort city of Cancún is known for its nightlife, Nichupté Lagoon nature reserve and long beaches with coral reefs.

Some information on the Gulf of Mexico. It is a totally different ball game. Stunningly beautiful and empty of humans. Complete contrast to Cancun, Cozumel area which I was not keen on. Free beach camping all along Super place for tent life.

Thursday 30/05/2019: Weather changed drastically and being buffeted by extremely high winds. Storm coming. Bike secured. Tent up. We made a shelter for wind protection. The weather turned better the next day and could relax and admire the surroundings. Palm trees and sandy beaches. Nobody around.

Saturday 31/05/2019: Decided to head inland to the east and parked up in San Cristobal de Las Casas after riding to a height of 2700 metres in rain. Freezing cold. Saw an interesting sign that reflect the ups-and-downs of life and the road we have been on.

Sunday 01/06/2019: New month and skirting Tabasco, a Mexican state with a northern coastline fringing the Gulf of Mexico. In its capital, Villahermosa, Parque Museo la Venta is known for its zoo and colossal stone sculptures dating to the Olmec civilization. Riding on a hot road!!!

Monday 02/06/2019: Monsoon season is hitting us now. In a place called Minatitlan. Riding is hardcore last few days. Just done eight hours in pounding rain. Rivers running across road and landslides. Wonderful day.

Minatitlán is a city in southeastern Mexican state of Veracruz in the Olmec region of the state and the north of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Intend to head further up the coast this week. Hopefully see some sunshine. Need to dry out. Shakespeare wrote the 'Seven Ages of Man' but seems women have only three.



That's all for now but just to add that my book on the Circumnavigation of Africa should be published in the next few weeks. Will keep you posted but also remember to look at the Photo Archive for some more pics. Best Spencer.

Thursday 23/05/2019: After two days rest feeling fit to continue through this small country so travelled on from Belize and headed along the coast of the Yucatan Province in Mexico.

Once again took to the rough roads off the main routes and came to little known places. Makes life more interesting when you have to cross 'state of the art' bridges which are not very biker friendly.

Stopped at a camp site and pointed out, in an annoyingly English Teacher mode, that a sign 'Take care of the WATHER' was misspelt. Next day it was corrected. Superb. Shortly after on the bike had a few problems with the brakes that refused to stop onward movement but need not have worried as the gods were on our side as a helpful sign popped into view to guide us to AA Road Side Assist.

Also came across some rather unfriendly signs, one of which asked people not to shoot the dachshund and two others which you can see in the photo Archive.

After a day or so heading west inland decided to veer east to the coast and found a 'luxury hut' for an overnight stay. Beautiful clear, blue sea so tempted to swim but was suddenly 'arrested' by beach guards who pointed out a notice forbidding swimming. Took my photograph and entered name and details into a log book of known criminals. Let off with a handshake!!!

Friday / Saturday 24 / 25/05/2019: Merida to Campeche

Continued along the coast through Merida and on to Campeche Province which is a state on the Yucatán Peninsula.

The area has limestone hills, rainforests and Gulf of Mexico beaches and is quite spectacular, particularly the capital which is a colonial-era harbour city with baroque Spanish architecture, cobblestone streets and a walled historic district.

It is really a stunning place and a pleasure to wander through the streets with colourful facades to the carefully maintained houses. Incredibly peaceful and a joy. Go to photo archive page to see a pic of a typical street in Campeche.

Hopefully in the next few days will make it further north along the Mexican coast avoiding touristy spots as far as possible.

Ta-Ta for now. Spencer

Wednesday 10/05/2019: Continuing through Belize. Tough seven hour-sand ride today. Sadly lens covered in dirt so no useable photos. Caught handlebar on tree and pulled all my right side. No riding tomorrow. Hope it is not too bad.

Stopped to meet Elvis at a wash stand.

Sunday 12/05/2019: Knee is 'damaged' and is a problem but managed to keep going. Working way up east coast but just huge hotels and private Beaches so heading inland again to rough areas. Sadly when we arrived further into Belize the army meet up fell through because there were elections the day after we arrived. Semi curfew and dry weekend (No alcohol sold to stop trouble) as they were voting whether to take Guatemala to the International Criminal Court over a border dispute. No real troubles but movements restricted.

Had to stop and wait for a couple of days and Cathy needed new underwear. Came upon a sign for a bra shop!!

Heard this comment made by a Minister- 'I would like to thank my arms for always being by my side, my legs for supporting me and I can always count on my fingers'.

Thursday 16/05/2019: Travelled east towards Cancun but disliked it then headed inland for normal Mexican life and small villages. Was given directions by Short Arm Pedro.

So friendly, but 90 percent so far have worked in service industry so difficult to judge. Overall great people and some super tough roads if you seek-you will find the non-tourist routes one day like that worth 100 in a tourist centres.

Saturday 18/05/2019: Decided to cross by ferry to Isla Mujeres and camp for a couple of days as leg is a bother and Cathy has a tooth abscess. Have to get treatment so waiting for dentist.

Isla Mujeres is in the Caribbean Sea, 13 kilometers off the coast from Cancún. It caters for American tourists and is known for spectacular beaches such as Playa Norte. The resort hotels offer snorkeling and scuba diving on the surrounding coral reefs. At Punta Sur, the southern tip, there's a lighthouse, the remains of a Mayan temple and a sanctuary for sea turtles.

Monday 20/05/2019: Still on the island but there is an undercurrent of street gangs and organised racketeering - drugs and other 'pleasures' for some dodgy tourists. Money grabbers everywhere! Rough it is indeed here but clothed in tourist respectability. I hate it.

We are a grim race overall. Ten minutes in the presence of a wild howler monkey beats years of inane human ego conversations.

Looks now as if I have malaria again, damn and blast!!! Need to get blood tests. Cathy and I both 'crocs' at the moment. Next LOG will have better news I hope. Hasta entonces amigos mios.

Friday 10/05/2019: Arrived in Belize and initial impression is that it is an organized and friendly country It is located on the north eastern coast of Central America.

The Maya Civilization spread into the area between 1500 B.C. and 300 A.D. and flourished until about 1200. Europeans began arriving in 1502 when Christopher Columbus sailed along the Gulf of Honduras but settlement was only begun by the English in 1638. It became a British colony in 1840, known as British Honduras, and a Crown colony in 1862. It claimed Independence from the United Kingdom in 1981 but remains a member of the Commonwealth, with Queen Elizabeth II as its monarch and head of state.

Belize has a very diverse society that is composed of many cultures and languages that reflect its rich history. English is the official language of Belize, while Belizean Creole is an unofficial native language. Over half the population is multilingual, with Spanish being the second most common spoken language.

On the road to Belize dropped into Mamitas Ice bar for a 'cool' drink and to try the local lager as advertised by a 'seductive' female. She remained fairly static and didn't speak much!!

The drinks went to Cathy's head as she was tempted to climb a 'small' tree she spotted along the road. Actually changed her mind as she didn't have her climbing gear with her.

This part of the world respects religion and it is possible to join the 'sun worshippers' and the 'Jesus rangers' as noticed on a church sign on our route.

Just a note about the continued ties with the UK, as an example, the British Army has a base here for jungle survival. As I mentioned in my last log I hope to be able to go into the jungle with the British Army Training Support Unit which is used primarily for jungle warfare training, and has access to over 5,000 square miles of jungle terrain, provided by the Government of Belize. It is located near Belize International Airport, at Price Barracks, Ladyville. Click on the link here for more info.

VENEZUELA LATEST

Maduro has survived the attempted take-over and is now arresting opponents. Still have friends there who continue to suffer from privations. Hi to all and try to smile in the face of hardship.

Sunday 12/05/2019: Continuing through Belize and very happy biking. Butterflies everywhere, some as big as my hand. Super day and super riding. My birthday in two day's time so might be in the jungle or Mexico. Check Central America icon for photos.

Until next Log, BYE FOR NOW... Spencer

Wednesday 01/05/2019: Great welcome by students at Intellego Billigual College in Sacatepequez, Guatemala. They asked many questions and had photos and videos taken by the bike. Gave us t-shirts with a map of Africa on them, signed by students, and caps, stickers and lunch Also provided a conducted tour around Antigua. And 250 dollars to 'help' with circumnavigation.

The press release stated that the students' were excited to meet world explorer and adventure motorcyclist Spencer Conway on the Central America leg of his around the world journey. Spencer was hosted by the Social Studies program as part of the school's Global Outreach initiative. Some 300 high school students got to meet Spencer in person and hear of his adventures in South America and Africa.

Some of the questions they asked were, "What is the most beautiful place you have visited? What inspired you to do this travel? What is the most difficult challenge you have faced? What do you plan to do next? And specifics like, how much has it cost you in gasoline? And how many accidents have you had? It was a very informative and eye-opening meeting which gave the student great insight into the continent where they live and inspiration to undertake their own adventures in the future.

Friday 03/05/2019: Gave a presentation at the University of San Carlos de Guatemala, which went well to the super grateful students. Lovely people, much appreciated.

Sunday 05/05/2019: We are on Isla Flores 65 kms from Tikal. The old part of the city is located on an island on Lake Peten Itza, connected to the mainland by a short causeway. The island of Flores is on the shore of Lake Petén and was the last independent Maya state to hold out against the Spanish conquerors. In 1541, Hernán Cortés passed by the island, en route to Honduras, but move on and did not try to conquer it. In 1697, the Spanish attacked via boats, and destroyed it. Those who could flee did so, and many Itzá people hid in the jungle for years.

Meeting British army in Belize for jungle trek which was first discussed three years ago. Nearly a disaster as I was stung on the chest riding yesterday but did not need epi-pen. Yayrs! Looking for a new saddle for the bike. Found a suitable pair for cattle driving.

VENEZUELA

Looks like the uprising against Maduro has failed as he is being backed by Russia which is propping up the regime. Most of the Military are still supporting the President who is holding on to power in spite of mass protests against him. Opposition seems to be fading in the face of retaliation and loss of heart. "Operation Freedom'' has all but fizzled out. Looks like Venezualans are going to continue to suffer hardship and recrimination.

Go to the photo archive to view some of the most recent photography from the journey HERE >>

Tuesday 23/04/2019: In Honduras at a place called Choluceta and then heading to El Salvador. Disturbed by gunshots in the night. Not comforting. Choluteca is in southern Honduras between El Salvador and Nicaragua. Choluteca's population is around 100,000 and the only major Honduran city on the Pan-American Highway. Saw what looked like robbers about to commandeer a 'get-away' vehicle.

Wednesday 24/04/2019: Crossed into El Salvador and stayed in a hostel in Pasaquina, before heading east back into Honduras in order to go to the Copan Ruins. The Mayan title of Pasaquina Ulua means "City of white beans" or "Path of bitterness." Don't know why. Anyone tell me?

Friday 26/04/2019: Amazing town of Copan Ruinas - the Copan Ruins which were the last stronghold of 25 000 Mayans in the 5th and 6th Century.



It is an archaeological site of the Maya civilization in western Honduras, not far from the border with Guatemala. It was the capital city of a major Classic period, on the frontier with the Isthmo-Colombian cultural region, and was surrounded by non-Maya peoples. The city developed a distinctive sculptural style within the tradition of the lowland Maya, to emphasize the Maya ethnicity of the city's rulers.

The ruins are really worth a visit and to take camera shots of the stone statues and ancient walls. Spent a very enjoyable cultural day and delipps, my web designer, will upload some more pics on the photo archive asap.

Sunday 28/04/2019: Into Guatamala and rested in La Antigua, a city in the central highlands of Guatemala know for its well-preserved Spanish Baroque architecture and the ruins of colonial churches. It was once the capital of the Kingdom of Guatemala and is now designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Found a suitable chair for a roadside rest. The Chairmen did not want to sell!!

Just hit 130,000 today!!!! 55 345kms Africa, 58 013kms in South America and 16 625kms so far in Central America. Bike still surviving. Tempted to change transport for pedal power.

Next log some news on the lecture tour if it all happens. Never know, Spencer

Hopefully bike probs fixed. Not much chance of spares where we are on the west coast of Costa Rica being troubled by drug pushers and other dodgy looking bods. There seems to be a hedonistic approach to life in the areas we have been so far. There are several 'houses' dotted about that offer recreational activities, some very colourful and others with notices on the tracks and paths advertising 'services!' as in the pic below.

In Matapolo, a beach resort on the pacific coast. It has an extensive sandy beach where you can walk for miles and miles without seeing another soul. Wildlife, like capuchin monkeys, sloths (both types) and toucans are abundant. But be aware that this is a resort where one has to take care not to part with your money too easily. Note that three toed sloths get drunk easily on the local brew. The one below pictured climbing a tree whilst imbibing.

Friday 19/04/2019: Heading to Nicaragua where we have been advised to avoid crowds celebrating Easter. There have been problems in recent years, with protests against the regimes in power at the time, but the military now have these under control, we hope. Rode through some dappled palm groves and enjoyed the sun and lack of traffic. On the way stopped to pick up fruit from a vendor but her chair was empty so had to leave some cash, pick-up a couple of mangoes, and ride on.

Saturday 20/04/2019: Made it to Nicaragua and of course Happy Easter everyone hope it is peaceful. Sad to hear about Notre Dame but wonder how much the Catholic Church will donate to the rebuilding? Nicaragua, lies between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, and is known for its dramatic terrain of lakes, volcanoes and beaches. Lake Managua and Momotombo volcano are north of the capital Managua. In the south is Granada, which is noted for its Spanish colonial architecture and areas of navigable islets rich in tropical bird life.

Just learnt that there were protest in various parts of the country on Good Friday that were supressed by the police. Good Friday religious processions in the capital became political as people took the opportunity to renew protests against the government of President Daniel Ortega.

As hundreds of faithful walked in a traditional Stations of the Cross procession to the city's cathedral, dozens of protesters shouted for justice and carried wooden crosses bearing the names of those who died during the past year of protests. They waved the blue-and-white Nicaraguan flag, which has become a symbol of the opposition.

Hope we don't get involved!!

Sunday 21/04/2019: Arrived in Leon on the coast. Super city, super architecture, super weather, super bike, super Cathy!! León is the second largest city in Nicaragua, after Managua and was founded by the Spanish as Santiago de los Caballeros de León. It has some outstanding architecture of which the massive León Cathedral is the most impressive. It combines baroque and neoclassical architecture and the view from the roof area provides a panorama of the city. Heading to Honduras tomorrow.

Check out the Photo archive for more pics taken on our route north.

Looks like my book on my African adventure will be available in the next few months, 'The Japanese Speaking Curtain Maker'. Further info in a couple of months.

Safe Riding

Since arriving in Cost Rica life has settled down into a more peaceful routine, for which we are thankful. We can at least smile again, although the trauma in Panama is still with us.

Found a pleasant camp site with palm trees and all mod cons open to the sea! And an electric rocket just about to make lift-off to Alpha Centauri!!

Incredibly was asked by a Costa Rican if I was Spencer Conway and when I said, "Never heard of him!" He seemed miffed. No didn't say that. "Yes," I said. He asked if we would visit his house and found myself looking at Spencer Conway on TV… fame found at last!

Costa Rica has beautiful, lush scenery and abounds with wild life. Magnificent Mantled money visited the tree where we had pitched our tent. Had a long conversation with him in Spanish. Superb. Got a little annoyed with me when I could not understand all he said.

Thursday 11/04/2019: Caught up with Jim at adventure Rider Radio, in the States, who interviewed me on the Panama incident. The interview can be listened to at 1 minute 40 secs on adventurerrideradio.com.

Friday 12/04/2019: Have been held up for a few days outside Punta Arenas, not making much progress because of recurring problem with the coil on the Tenere.

We aim to be in Nicaragua in four days. Bit worrying again but will try to get through quickly. We will take the ferry from Punta Arenas, which is a 70 minutes boat ride across the Gulf of Nicoya, hopefully a relaxing trip with views of the peninsula. The ferry passes by small islands in the gulf, some of them protected biological reserves which are only inhabited by colonies of maritime birds. Then head north to Nicaragua. We will see!

Tuesday 26/03/2019: Having survived the Panama trauma Cathy and I continued on our Central America circumnavigation, with some trepidation, and rode into the town of Jimenez. Almost immediately saw a guy staggering down a street holding his stomach. Turned out to be an American, David Chief, who had been robbed and, trying to resist, was stabbed. We spent the rest of the morning in Hospital with him and then went in search of a place to camp.

On a visit the next day we found that he had contracted septicemia. Not good news and so tried to contact his parents. We were anxious to carry on so after another wait we left to continue into the unknown but first a few words about Puerto Jiménez, a town on the Osa Peninsula, Puntarenas Province, near the Corcovado National Park. Nearby is the Golfo Dulce Forest Reserve, where sightings of scarlet macaws, toucans and trogóns are common. We camped under huge trees and by roots of a 'triffid' tree near a mangrove area where we saw iguanas, howler monkeys, caimans, eagles, giant butterflies, and lizards. Nature always supplies despite human frailties

Thursday 28/03/2019: Our next stop was in Porto Negra, north of Jimenez, where we camped and had a peaceful night, and then headed to the Marino Ballena National Park. But not before we had a quick coffee in a 'crowded', colourful café.

Friday 29/03/2019: The National Park is a sanctuary for many species of birds and also marine life off the coast. Humpback Wales arrive here each year to mate and then disappear into the ocean. We set up camp but were disturbed by strange 'footsteps' in the night outside our tent. Next morning discovered that we had been close to bigger 'beasts' than iguanas as the pic below warns.

Sunday 31/03/2019: Heading to San Jose for bike spares. Still not feeling comfortable. Central America is of mixed vibes!

Update on Venezuela. Latest on Venezuela is that Maduro has got the High Court to issue a warrant for Guaido's arrest, on his return to the country, as he left to go to Brazil, when he had been banned from doing so. More power cuts in the country have caused further hardship and deaths as hospital emergency units shut down. Nearby countries, Brazil, Columbia and also Ecuador are feeling the effects of the refugee crisis and the problems of trying to support them as most are destitute. Such a pity for a lovely country.

A little behind with this diary as not been in wifi contact from where we are. Will catch up soon.

We arrived at the Airport and were told to get a taxi to take us to Customs to pick up the bike but an argument broke out amongst the drivers. This seemed more than a little dodgy and we suspected that we had been singled out for some unwanted attention. We managed to make our way to customs, not far, and cleared the bike through all necessary checks and paperwork. Customs inspected and we were released from an international airport! At the gate a guy checked all four clearance documents. He disappeared into an office for some time, came out, handed me the papers and said, 'All is good. You are clear. Go!'

We rode out with many other bikers but we were stopped at what appeared to be a Police block. The only ones!!! We were asked for a specific document, not passport, and other bike papers which is the usual line. The requested document could not be found amongst the others!! More than likely it had been 'confiscated' by 'All is good'. My surmise is that he had radioed ahead and four guys started to hassle us. We could not leave without the 'missing' document which would cost us 3000 dollars!! They shut us in a room for six hours in 36 degrees without water or anything else. 3000 dollars or... what? I was taken into another 'room' where three guys tried to make me sign the bike over to them or pay the 3000. Told Cathy her husband would disappear.

I said I needed to make a call to the UK to see if I could arrange payment but it was made to my father to whom I managed to make a quick help message before they stopped me using the phone. The British Foreign Office was contacted who traced the call and made a call to that number. They became freaked out, cursing and shouting, and pushed us out onto the street knowing it was good 30 minute's walk to get to a 'hotel'. They told me to come back the next day to get the bike. They then tried to pick us up in in a car a hundred metres away. We did get to a safer place but they parked up outside where we were staying. I went to local supermarket but saw one of the guys who stopped me for shoplifting!!!. All on hassling us. Cathy now very scared and told me not to go the next morning to get my bike. But I had to go.

I went. No sign of the bike. Put in a room and 'asked' to wait. I was forced into making a ten page report - was told to give details of eye colour, hair colour, weight, height, age, medical history. Description of my tattoos, travel plans... blah blah. All a pretence. Asked for money again and suffered threats to me and to Cathy.

Fortunately it was then that the Panama Consulate managed to contact Cathy to ask what had happened and she told them I was locked up by the "police". They immediately got in contact with my 'Captors' and made the right noises to get my release and the release of the bike. Having been 'allowed' to go, I went to the hotel to get Cathy and to say we could get back on the road. We got into a taxi to get my bike as it had gone to a custom's lock-up - again a scam - where the official said all was in order and to take the bike and be on our way. We headed for the Costa Rican border accompanied by other bikers who had heard of our problems and also by Government Officials. We crossed into Costa Rica through both customs' checks without needing to show any papers. Relieved and recovering. I could add a few more unsettling details but enough. We are in Costa Rica and hopefully will continue through Central America without more problems as we experienced in Panama.