ECLIPSED

My New Vehicle Monday 08/04/2024: Parts of Mexico were eclipsed recently but in Escondido we missed the event so will just have to wait till the next one. Could be a long time from now. Not to worry will just have to make sure I don't miss it next time! Actually 24,270 days from now to Saturday, 09/23/2090. For an informative review of the eclipse « click on the link to the NASA report! » its quite long but you can skip through.

Tuesday 09/04/2024: Just taken delivery of my new vehicle which I got for a very good price. Needs a bit of work but have interest from a couple of museums already. Sure it would be a great attraction but need to ship it to Germany. Note the flag.

Tuk Yuks Wednesday 10/04/2024: Staying with vehicles I reported that the new highway serving Escondido from Oaxaca has already been the scene of many accidents and spotted on the road last week was a convoy of Tuk-tuks which are motorbikes fitted with a cab to carry three to four passengers. Obviously not a vehicle for a high-speed motorway. They were stopped by the police and transported back to site of origin. Motorised tuk tuks originated from the design of rickshaws, which were prevalent on the streets of Bangkok during World War II. A small engine was fitted inside a traditional rickshaw, and the tuk tuk was born. They got their name from the sound that the earliest models make. The engine makes a 'tuk tuk tuk tuk tuk' sound. Have actually driven one in Bangkok in dense traffic with a seated owner high on pot. Laughable experience.

Early Days Thursday 11/04/2024: Just to keep you up to date with the latest motorbike on the market. Not that expensive, streamlined, fuel efficient and top speed amazing. As in the photograph you must have a moustache to ride it. Helps with the aerodynamics. Using an engine that had been produced in August 1943, a 98-cc single-cylinder two-stroke with a two-stage gear box, and spare parts obtained from the black market to bypass shortages. The prototype was exhibited to the press in late October 1945 at a dealership on Via Piatti in Milan. It had a steel tube rigid frame, a girder fork, 19-inch wheels, and a gas tank marked with a large M and V and was initially called "Vespa 98" before being renamed to "MV 98" to avoid confusion with the Vespa motor scooter produced by Piaggio. The abbreviation MV stands for Meccanica Verghera, the hamlet where the first MVs were made. MV Agusta retired from Grand Prix racing at the end of the 1976 season, having won 270 Grand Prix motorcycle races, 38 World Riders' Championships and 37 World Constructors' Championships with legendary riders such as Giacomo Agostini, Mike Hailwood, Phil Read, Carlo Ubbiali, Gary Hocking and John Surtees. The best riders at the time.

Happy Family Sunday 14/04/2024: Maintaining the bike theme just to say that my promotion of my training programme for riders is attracting clients from many nationalities and receiving favourable comments. Very enjoyable and sociable experience. Interesting characters with a variety of backgrounds and riding skills. I include a pic of happy Townsley family after a ride. Simon, dad, Evelyn and Oscar, son and daughter and Greta Oscar's Albanian girlfriend. And Cathy!

MOTORCYCLE TRAINING, MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE, SAFETY AND ON/OFF ROAD INSTRUCTION AND RIDEOUT - BECOME A CONFIDENT, EXPERT MOTORCYCLIST

Trainee TestimonialsMotorcycle maintenance, safety and professional training course for all levels (beginner, intermediate and advanced) followed by a three hour guided ride in the beautiful mountains outside Puerto Escondido.- 750 pesos per person with own bike.

Brand new Italika 250s and 150s available for rent.

One/two day longer guided rides on request. Alone or groups. We do Chacahua and the mountainous coffee region.

I include some early comments from two satisfied customers to prove I actually do train real people...

Da Vinci Doodles Monday 15/04/2024: On this day in 1452 Leonardo di ser Piero da Vinci was born. As you all know he was a renaissance polymath, painter, sculptor, architect, musician, engineer and inventor, but chiefly remembered as one of the greatest painters of all time. His inventions and designs include flying machines, a tank, concentrated solar power, an adding machine, the double hull and also a theory of plate tectonics. He died on May 2, 1519, aged 67. Some 20 years after Leonardo's death, Francis 1st of France, his patron in later life, was reported by the goldsmith and sculptor Benvenuto Cellini as saying: "There had never been another man born in the world who knew as much as Leonardo, not so much about painting, sculpture and architecture, as that he was a very great philosopher." Leonardo did not invent the motorbike but there are hints that he could have done to be found in his notebooks. For in depth analysis of his life and works « click on the link »

To conclude I have been informed that Facebook has recognised me as a top rising creator this week! Whatever that means, it must be good. Love to you all and get your friends to follow me please, whatever that means too. Love the interaction to be honest. Spaghetti and chips. Love Spencer.

CHANGING SCENE

Gringos Thursday 28/03/2024: Unfortunately, in quiet Escondido life is changing, as mentioned in the last log, the new highway from Oaxaca to the coast has brought an influx of people and a reaction from some locals who are not too happy. This does not apply to all as tourist businesses benefit. Also, there are more 'gringos' which has generated racist action. In fact, it is becoming very, very racist here against 'gringos'. Among Latin Americans, gringo is a term for a "foreigner," often a white person from the United States. It can also refer to a person who doesn't speak Spanish or is out of touch with Latin culture, including people of Hispanic descent. The term gringo appeared in the 1787 Castilian Dictionary, whose author, Esteban de Terreros y Pando, defined it as a term used in the southern Spanish port city of Málaga to describe foreign, heavily accented speakers of Spanish. In Spain's capital Madrid, Esteban noted similar use, though typically it was aimed at Irish foreigners. Years after the publication of the 1787 Castilian Dictionary, gringo sprang up again, though this time on the other side of the Atlantic. When United States forces invaded Mexico in 1846, in the Mexican American War, many Mexicans began referring to the newly arrived English-speakers as gringos. Anti gringo pamphlets and signs are being published in Escondido which is a great pity as most Mexicans here are non-racist. Today the term is used in the 2018 film 'Gringo', which centres around an American businessman who gets kidnapped in Mexico. Not a good film I suggest. « Check out the trailer! »

From 2018 a term began circulating on social media to refer to a particular demographic in Mexico: "whitexicans." It addresses Mexico's white population. But beyond the colour of the skin, the whitexican tag specifically refers to upper-class Mexicans who lead a privileged lifestyle: They attend private schools, travel abroad, speak English, and have access to opportunities many Mexicans only dream of. It reveals what has been apparent in Mexico since the Spanish colonization, but until a few years ago, it was very little acknowledged that most of Mexico's high-class population is white. Does this strike a chord with anyone?

Scott Explorers Sunday 31/03/2024: Just an aside which is worth mentioning that on this day in 1912, the English explorer Captain Robert Falcon Scott, was storm-bound in a tent near the South Pole, and made his last entry in his diary, stating, "the end cannot be far." Setting out 110 years ago, the team of British explorers had hoped to be the first men to reach the South Pole. But when they arrived on January 17, they found that a party led by the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen had beaten them to it. They headed home disheartened but still hopeful they would survive. By the end of March 1912, all five were dead. Petty Officer Edgar Evans died from a probable brain injury from a fall into a crevasse on February 17. Next was Captain Lawrence Oates, who suffered from frostbite as he crossed the Ross Ice Shelf. Scared of holding up the party, he walked out into the snow on March 17 with the now famous line, "I'm just going outside and may be some time". The three remaining men struggled on. On March 21, they camped for the last time, but froze to death. The bodies were found by a search party in November 1912. Actually, Scott had made several mistakes in preparation for the expedition which led to their frozen deaths. What is worse? Dying of heat and thirst in a desert or freezing to death in snow and ice! Debateable.

Monday 01/4/2024: Another month and not a good start in my area as it has been a tragic Holy week. Thirteen people have drowned in the past twenty-four hours, 17 people in Oaxaca. Eight of the victims were Asian migrants sailing on a boat in the lagoon area. Residents and fishermen said that strong wind gusts caused the boat to capsize. Some of the other 17 drowned were tourists and others elderly residents. One man died after saving a woman in a fast-flowing river. The heroic act cost him his life as he was swept away by the current. An Argentinian, age 24, was pulled out to sea, and lost. There is an ongoing search for his body. The water is always rough here and the lifeguards raise red flags indicating no swimming, but people ignore them and most are weak swimmers. I have to be careful, as I am half fish.

Fatal Accident Tuesday 02/04/2024: Carnage down this way! This morning when I was preparing for my bike lesson, I heard a bang outside. A young Venezuelan guy of about 23 who was renting a room next door to us rode his motorbike into a parked one and knocked it over. I watched from the window as he picked up the bike and then rode off. Five minutes later I left, rode four hundred metres up the road, and he was dead, hit by a taxi. He was not wearing a helmet. Fatal! Terrible. The photo is from a Puerto site. Now we have many accidents on the new highway on the Oaxaca Road. Many caused by fast driving and unsafe vehicles. Taxis are often overloaded and unstable. One accident occurred when a lorry loaded with large building blocks careered off the road spewing the load on the highway. Some drivers could not avoid the debris. Result. Damaged vehicles.

Spring EquinoxWednesday 03/04/2024: Just past the Spring Equinox but what is it? Equinox means "equal night" in Latin? In the Northern Hemisphere it is the time of moving into autumn and in the South, emerging from winter into spring. The celestial event that marks this transition is called an "equinox," and it happens twice every year around March 21 and Sept. 21. You can attend this phenomenon at one of the most famous Mayan Ruins, "Chichen Itza" when during the spring and fall equinoxes this pyramid dedicated to Quetzalcoatl serves as a visual symbol of the day and night. On every equinox, the sun in the late afternoon creates the illusion of a snake creeping slowly down the northern staircase. Symbolically, the feathered serpent joins the heavens, earth, and the underworld. Thousands of people travel from around the world and gather to Chichen Itza each year, to admire the spectacle. The whole day has a carnival type atmosphere, rock bands competing with traditional music and folk-dance troupes, and groups of New Agers in robes come to see the equinox. Visitors usually wear white clothes to exorcise "bad vibes" and attract positive energy from the new sun.

Difficult Ride And Wolf Spider Saturday 06/04/2024: I continue to search for new routes for my bike riding trainees so herewith a very short video of an easy ride. The advanced routes take one into the interior and rough and difficult terrain. Have to be a more advanced rider for a three-hour adventure. Must be expert to do the desert ride. Danger lurks and you might come across a rather daunting creature on some routes. A wolf spider. The Wolf Spider (Lycosa tarantula) is a segmented insect known for its varied habitat choices. It's distinguished by its agile hunting skills, often seen prowling at night. It is an adaptable creature, prevalent worldwide, making it one of the most common of the spider world. Beware they have a nasty bite. Have tarantula on toast on the menu. Best wishes. Spencer.

TIME AND TIDE

Time And Tide Tuesday 12/03/2024: I suppose that I must admit that my goal of attempting to circumnavigate all continents is receding as circumstances have prevented this endeavour and passage of time moves on. The exact origin of 'Time and Tide' is uncertain, but Chaucer may have known it. The earliest record is from St. Marher in 1225: "And te tide and te time þat tu iboren were, schal beon iblescet." It evolved into the present-day version: "The tide abides for, tarrieth for no man, stays no man; tide nor time tarrieth no man." The word "tide" in this context originally referred to a period of time, not the rising and falling of the sea. Over time, the literal interpretation shifted to the contemporary meaning of "tide" as the ebb and flow of the sea. We are all circumscribed by what is written in our lives, which we cannot control, but we do have the freedom to shape our destiny as far as possible, but we cannot stop the passage of time. Sorry for the philosophical musings. My father will know as it is his birthday today. Happy greetings, Padre.

Thursday 14/03/2023: Many of you might remember the Mexican Brown tarantula that was in my board shorts, nestling up to my meat and two vegetables. I totally flipped out and tore my shorts totally in half. « Click this link for the video proof that I wasn't exaggerating the size! » He was a bit stunned at this point after being jettisoned across the room. Cathy Nel was in hysterics. I am not scared of spiders but don't want one on my landing gear. In northern Mexico we encountered more than a thousand crossing the road. We had to stop the bike. It was amazing, even though the tarantulas were doing wheelies and attacking our front tyre.

Ants and Chicatana BikeSunday 16/03/2024: Some of you may not take kindly to eating insects but on my travels, I have had a variety thrust upon me in some awkward situations. Some forced, some by choice. In Africa during the rainy season thousands of flying ants take to the air, are caught, and fried for a meal. More extreme is the capture of tarantulas for a snack. Now scientific research has highlighted the fact that ants are both tasty and nutritious! In fact in Mexico it has been confirmed that the chicatana ant, native to this country, has a 'nutty roasty, woody flavour' and can be used to make a smoky salsa to serve with tortillas. It is popular in Oaxaca, my nearest large city, along with other more common ants that can be dried and crushed into a powder for flavouring. Some are used as a lemon juice substitute when mixed with water. But be careful to collect the right type of ant for your next batch as some are poisonous and the bullet ant has the worst sting in the world. Ant revenge!! Also as an added comment, the local Mexicans have named my bike Chicatana! Sounds like an angry ant.

The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat in Mozambique Tuesday 19/03/2024: Have received more book reviews recently, some of which I have published on social media, but just to show that 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' and 'The Japanese Speaking Curtain Maker' are known in far flung places I post a photo from Chibalala in Mozambique. They are popular in America, Australia, and all points N/S/E/W and on the Moon. This is a recent review of 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat'. Apologies if you have read it elsewhere: "What a rollercoaster of a ride. What Spencer has done here is capture the essence of Overland motorcycle travel in the whole spectrum of experiences and emotions. I've laughed, been shocked, enthralled, engaged and actually brought to tears. Cathy has also massively gone up in my estimation - from superwoman 1,0000 percent. What a woman! This book is sometimes tangential but never directionless. Perhaps a bit like the man himself? A must read..."

Friendly Police Saturday 23/03/2024: Just had my bike pannier broken into in a 'secure' supermarket'. Wrenched it open and took all my tools, tarpaulin, generator and more. The guard said there are no cameras, and he did not see anything suspicious. Problem to replace some things and expensive. Spoke to my Police buddies and said they were probably Venezuelans, not Mexicans. They said they would keep a look out for the items. I don't hold out much hope. These are the happy chappies.

Houdini Sunday 24/03/2024: On this day in 1874 the escapologist Harry Houdini was born. Many think of him as an American but he was the son of a rabbi who emigrated from Hungary to the United States and settled in Appleton, Wisconsin. He became a trapeze performer in circuses at an early age, and, after settling in New York City in 1882, he performed in vaudeville shows there without much success. In 1894 he was married to Wilhelmina Rahner, who thereafter as Beatrice Houdini served as his stage assistant. From about 1900 Houdini began to earn an international reputation for his daring feats of extrication from shackles, ropes, and handcuffs and from various locked containers ranging from milk cans to coffins to prison cells. In a typical act he was shackled with chains and placed in a box that was locked, roped, and weighted. The box was submerged from a boat, to which he returned after freeing himself underwater. In another outdoor exhibition he allowed himself to be suspended, head down, about 75 feet (23 metres) above ground and then freed himself from a straitjacket. These demonstrations were watched by many thousands of people. Houdini's uncanny escape abilities depended partly on his great physical strength and agility and partly on his extraordinary skill at manipulating locks. Houdini died on October 31, 1926, at the age of 52 from peritonitis (swelling of the abdomen), possibly related to appendicitis and possibly related to punches to his stomach he had received about a week and a half earlier. I am about to attempt to escape from my duvet cover suspended from the veranda. « CLICK FOR VINTAGE HOUDINI ARCHIVE FOOTAGE »

Wednesday 27/03/2024: Two of my kittens have lost their bedroom now as the tarp has gone. They are pretty ratty about it.

Ant Bite and reclining cat

Peace, love and sweet dreams tonight for all those with spider phobias. Just had a run in with unknown opponent. Zapped on my hand. Have to avoid insects!

THE YEAR MOVES ON

Leap YearThursday 29/02/2024: This day, February 29, known as a leap day in the Gregorian calendar, is a date that occurs in most years that are evenly divisible by 4, such as 2004, 2008, 2012 and 2016. Years that are evenly divisible by 100 do not contain a leap day, except for years that are evenly divisible by 400, which do contain a leap day; is that clear? Thus 1900 did not contain a leap day while 2000 did. Years containing a leap day are called leap years. Although most years of the modern calendar have 365 days, a complete revolution around the sun takes approximately 365 days and 6 hours. Therefor every four years, during which an extra 24 hours have accumulated, one extra day is added to keep the count coordinated with the sun's position. In England a person born on February 29 legally reaches the age of 18 or 21 on February 28 of the relevant year. Pisces is the zodiac sign of a person born on this day. Amethyst is the modern birthstone for this month and Bloodstone is the mystical birthstone from Tibetan origin that dates back over a thousand years. So, if you missed a birthday today try tomorrow.

Skin CancerFriday 01/03/2023: Another month and time for a health warning. I am not trying to lecture and inform you of what you may already know but in places like Mexico, where most of the country has year-round sun exposure, protecting your skin from ultraviolet (UV) rays is essential – especially if you have a fair complexion and are used to less sunny days. Fair skin tones are more susceptible to sun damage and irritation and tend to be thinner and more reactive, resulting in easy burning and redness. Mexico gets a significant amount of sunlight throughout the year, even in places that experience rainfall often. Mexico City, where it rains frequently, receives 2,551 hours of sunlight every year, with March being the sunniest month, 264 hours of sunshine and September being the least sunny, 150 hours. Exposure to excessive UV radiation either from the sun or sunbeds, can damage the DNA in our skin cells, eventually leading to skin cancer. Chronic sun exposure increases the risk of developing lentigo maligna, a subtype of melanoma that appears in areas of the skin that have been exposed to the sun over time. This type of skin cancer is common in elderly people, usually on the face and neck. UV rays are particularly harmful from 10 am to 4 pm, during which time sun exposure should be avoided. I realise that this is about sunshine in Mexico far from where many readers live but it applies to anywhere in sunny areas. It is important to use a good sunscreen ointment. Happy sunbathing sun worshippers.

Tlatelolco Market Diego Riverar Sunday 03/03/2024: Most readers will have visited a street market sometime but in Mexico they are a special treat for most. Modern-day tianguis, which is derived from the Nahuatl "tianguitztli," evolved from Mesoamerican markets, one of which was the Tlatelolco founded in 1337, located just north of Tenochtitlán, in what is now Mexico City. The tianguis of Tlatelolco is considered the best example of this kind of market in Mesoamerica and its remains can be seen in the Plaza de las Tres Culturas. Today handmade crafts straw hats and baskets, blankets and bedspreads, rugs and wall hangings, colourful placemats and pottery are for sale. There is also mountains of fresh fruit and vegetables, prepared foods and homemade pantry items like jams, salsas and honey. The grand market in Tlatelolco was visited by Hernan Cortés, who estimated that approximately 60,000 people went to the plaza daily to exchange products and stated that it was "twice as large as the city of Salamanca." Merchants and tamemes (porters) delivered their products through a vast network of land routes and countless canoe trips, many coming from the Gulf of Mexico and other distant locations. Arcades surrounded the market, which was highly organized into sections well-defined by aisles, and each had a designated type of product for sale. Merchants had a seat and space on the floor to display their products. For those who like to browse markets, in Mexico, they are a haven. Diego Rivera imagined the ancient Tlatelolco market on one of his huge murals.

Sistine Chapelr Wednesday 06/03/2024: On this day in 1475, Michelangelo Buonarroti, the Italian Renaissance artist, was born in the small village of Caprese. The son of a government administrator, he grew up in Florence, a centre of the early Renaissance movement, and became an artist's apprentice at age 13. Demonstrating obvious talent, he was taken under the wing of Lorenzo de' Medici, the ruler of the Florentine republic and a great patron of the arts. He became a master of painting, sculpture and architecture. One of his best-known sculptures is his David and his ceiling frescoes at the Vatican's Sistine Chapel are renowned as a monumental work. Before his masterpieces, beginning in 1490, he lived in the Medici palace, where he was a student of the sculptor Bertoldo di Giovanni and studied the Medici art collection, which included ancient Roman statuary. He was also an accomplished poet, and some 300 of his poems are preserved. Michelangelo worked until his death in 1564 at the age of 88. An outstanding master of his craft. Open this link for interesting fact about Michelangelo.

« Nine surprising facts about the Renaissance artist often called "the Divine One." »

Tattoo Artist I continue to train motorbike riders here in Escondido and have several courses available. I offer safety lessons on roads and the more challenging off-road rides inland from Escondido. These are for the more experienced rider and there are varying degrees of difficulty through some rough country on dirt roads. Obstacles include rivers and muddy sections and steep inclines. Usually incorporates a swim in one of the pools in the wild. One of my trainees was a funky, expert tattoo artist who proved to be an excellent rider. I include a pic of her at work and one of the commendations received from a trainee.

"Interesting, knowledgeable and a talented rider, Spencer is a great guide and fantastic company to boot. I would absolutely recommend him to anyone looking to improve their riding and have some memorable adventures. We are looking forward to doing more trips with him in the near future."

Escondido Beach Saturday 09/03/2024: In the last month a new highway has opened linking Oaxaca to Escondido which reduced a hazardous bus or car ride from six hours to two hours of easy driving. This has brought an influx of holiday makers to the formerly quiet village.

This is the beach I used to swim ALONE, with Broken Shell the turtle. Very sad. The cost of living has tripled, the supermarkets can't cope and the litter and effect on the wildlife will be catastrophic. This is the effect that one motorway can have on the environment.

Sunday 10/03/2024: It is not all bad news as Mexico has a well organised protection policy for one of natures big cats: the Jaguar. Mexico conducted its first population census in 2008, studying jaguars across 15 conservation sites. The review took three years to complete and established Mexico as a leader in conservation strategies for preserving wild jaguar populations.

JaguarsAccording to that first census, an estimated 4,000 jaguars lived in the country, mostly in the Yucatán peninsula. By 2018, when the second census was carried out, this figure had increased to approximately 4,800. A healthy jaguar population requires extensive habitats. A single jaguar requires between 2,500 and 10,000 hectares, along with a network of connected territories. During the administration of President Andrés Manul López Obrador, the protection of priority jaguar habitats has been increased by 1.6 million hectares. Super, super, super.

Kitten On A Ride Lastly, but not so wild or quite so beautiful I have to tell you that my Kitten has commandeered my bike when not in use. Has made it his home and keeps other riders away. Likes to ride with me for an outing. Beware, can kill.

Luke Falcon Incredibly sad news... Luc Falcon, a motorbike friend, has died while riding in Namibia in a head-on collision with a truck. Very sad and thinking of his family.

Farewell friend. Spencer.



WHAT NEXT?

Mexican War Propaganda Friday 16/02/2024: This LOG is a mix of things Mexican and from wider afield which I hope are interesting. Many readers will have watched a popular film genre which has lasted for nearly a century based on the often-romanticised Wild West of America. But the real situation was not so attractive. The reality has recently been captured by a display of authentic photographs of the West's past which reveals the hard life that early settlers experienced. In most Westerns the saloon features where gun fights are frequent and 'good time girls' parade in revealing costumes. Not far from the truth. Also, in the early development of the west, and elsewhere, the Dance Hall was a patronised form of 'entertainment'. The Klondyke Dance Hall and Saloon was infamous in its time. The photo was taken in 1909 (Photographer: Frank H. Nowell). Women were the main attraction. Doesn't look too inviting! This dance hall, came under fire for so-called "indecent acts." In its heyday it made huge profits, like others down in the west. More early photos can be found by googling Photos of Old Western Saloons.

Monarch ButterfliesSaturday 17/02/2024: I recently included some information on the prevalence of Monarch butterflies in Mexico but sadly the number at their wintering areas in Mexico has dropped by 59% this year to the second lowest level since record keeping began. Mainly because of the use of pesticide, and climate change. The annual butterfly count doesn't calculate the individual number of butterflies, but rather the number of hectares they cover when they clump together on tree branches in the mountain pine and fir forests west of Mexico City. The butterflies' migration from Canada and the US to Mexico and back again is considered a marvel of nature. This year the butterflies covered an area equivalent to 0.9 hectares, down from 2.21 hectares from last year. Humberto Peña, the head of Mexico's protected areas, proposed creating a "safe corridor" for migrating butterflies with reduced herbicide and pesticide use and stricter measures against deforestation. The use of herbicides in the US and Canada has reduced the amount of milkweed, the butterflies' preferred food, thus starving the Monarch of essential nutrition. Let's hope measures are taken to resolve the problem.

Hernando CortedSunday 18/02/2024: On this day in 1519 Herman Cortés sailed for the coast of Yucatán with 11 ships, 508 soldiers, about 100 sailors, and, most important, 16 horses. He landed at Tabasco, where he gained information from the local Indians who presented him with presents, including 20 women, one of whom, Marina ("Malinche"), became his mistress and interpreter and bore him a son, Martín. Cortés sailed down the coast and founded Veracruz. He was 'elected' captain general and chief justice by his soldiers. Cortés exercised and disciplined his army, welding it into a cohesive force. The ultimate expression of his determination to deal with disaffection occurred when he sank his ships. By that single action he committed himself and his entire force to survival by conquest.

Montezuma The key to Cortés's subsequent conquests lay in the political crisis within the Aztec empire; the Aztecs were bitterly resented by many of their subject peoples who had to pay tribute to them. Cortés took advantage of the situation to gain 200,000 Indian allies. The Tlaxcala which was in a state of conflict with Montezuma II, ruler of the Aztec empire of Mexico, became his most faithful ally. Rejecting all of Montezuma's threats to keep him from Tenochtitlán, the capital, later known as Mexico City, Cortés entered the city on November 8, 1519, with his small Spanish force and 1,000 Tlaxcaltecs. Montezuma inevitably had to receive him and did so with great honour, but Cortés decided to 'imprison' Montezuma in order to hold the country and achieve political conquest and religious conversions to Catholicism. The Spanish influence on Mexico was implemented from that date and is visible in all aspects of Mexican culture today.

GutenburgTuesday 20/02/2024: Among the most important innovations in world history was the development of the printing press. During February 1455 the Gutenberg Bible was printed on the press that revolutionized the production and distribution of books, ushering in the age of print and the spread of knowledge. This also influenced the development of art, literature, science, and religion.

Only 49 copies of the Gutenberg Bible have survived, and each one is unique. Some have handwritten notes, marginalia, or bindings from different periods and regions. Although this made them significantly cheaper than manuscript Bibles, students, priests or people of moderate income could not afford them. Most were sold to monasteries, universities, and wealthy individuals. Only one copy is known to have been privately owned in the fifteenth century. Some were used for communal readings in monastery refectories, others for display rather than use. A few were certainly for study. A few were bought by wealthy and pious laymen for donation to religious institutions. The price of a complete copy today is estimated at $25-35 million. Outside my price range..

Supermarket ChaosIn the last Log I provided an account of my 'run-in' with an American who decided that the liquor in a supermarket belonged to him. Just fill a couple of bags and a knapsack and walk out, knocking a Mexican female security officer on to the ground on the way out. After all she had no right to ask him what he was carrying!! His opinion. My reaction was instantaneous. I jumped into action as previously reported so I provide a montage of the event. Thanks to the unknown artist. Let me know who you are. Great creative work. Thanks. Sadly, the female security officer has not returned to work after the attack.

Diocletianf Friday 23/02/2024: Another commemorative day. In these times of religious strife just a reminder that it isn't a recent occurrence. On 23 February 303, the Roman emperor, Diocletian, ordered that the newly built church at Nicomedia be destroyed and its scriptures be burned. Also, that its precious stores of the treasury be seized. Diocletian's issued an "Edict against the Christians" that ordered the destruction of Christian scriptures and places of worship across the empire and prohibited Christians from assembling for worship. Sounds familiar!! At the end of February, a fire destroyed part of the Imperial palace and Diocletian determined that the culprits were Christians. An investigation was commissioned, but no responsible party was found. Executions followed anyway, and suspects were tortured and executed. The executions continued until the 24 April including the bishop Anthimus who was decapitated. Although further persecutory edicts followed, compelling the arrest of the Christian clergy and universal acts of sacrifice, they were ultimately unsuccessful, most Christians escaped punishment, and pagans too were generally unsympathetic to the persecution. Within twenty-five years of the persecution's inauguration, the Christian emperor Constantine revoked the edicts, and returned all confiscated property to Christians. Under Constantine's rule, Christianity became the empire's preferred religion. The wheel turns in mysterious ways!!

Trainies" Saturday 24/02/2024: I haven't had much news recently. Hope you are all good. None of you will know because I have kept it quiet. I have been busy training locals and tourists in Mexico about motorcycle safety and on/off road instruction. On the most inappropriate motorcycles and no gear. I sort that out before we ride!!! Best of all: 60 percent Mexican riders involved. Today I had my 60th trainee. I also received this review below, perfect timing. Wow. Totally over the top, but I will take it!

Fixing A Flat by Norman Rockwell "Rarely do you get an opportunity to learn from a living legend... Someone with expertise so deep that it becomes a fundamental part of who they are. Spencer IS Adventure Moto riding personified, and I learned more on his 3-hour ride than I learned in years of riding. He is a natural teacher who instructs through practical demonstration, clear feedback, and engaging story telling. His lessons may save your life one day and are sure to make you a better rider. I will be back for more training!" John James

Lastly a painting by Norman Rockwell (1894-19780) that might bring a smile. Wish I had such helpers when I have to fix a flat. OK. That's all folks. Happy biscuits and cheese. Spencer

NEWS FOM MEXICOe

Airplane Crash On The BeachFriday 09/02/2024: Unexpected events happen daily in Escondido! Our daily fishing was interrupted by a crash landing on the beach near cafes and bars. A Cessna 208B Grand Caravan aircraft had to make an emergency landing on Bacocho beach. The Cessna plane crash-landed almost immediately after take-off from runway 27 at Puerto Escondido Airport. Four passengers from Canada had boarded the Cessna 208B signing up for a skydiving adventure. A Mexican pilot was in charge of the plane and everything looked perfect until it was time for the passengers to jump. The machine experienced a malfunction, which compelled the pilot to search for an emergency landing spot and crash landed on the beach. Local fishermen helped to evacuate the people on board, in rather a desperate way. It was fortunate that the passengers were not too seriously injured otherwise they may have suffered more from the unceremonious rescues. It was more serious for one person on the beach who was killed after being struck by the aircraft. Every day a saga.

Sunday 11/02/2024: Now to another incident in which I was directly involved, previously reported on facebook, but I include in full here as some who do not patronise that outlet.

RUGBY TACKLING A THIEF AND THEN SUBDUING HIM USING A TECHNIQUE I LEARNT FROM YOUTUBE TWO DAYS EARLIER!

Yes, it is clickbait but listen to this one! Many of you may remember me throwing out a rude fellow from Immigration a few years back, leading to help with rapid Mexican residency. This incident was way more hectic.

Yesterday I went to the supermarket here in Puerto Escondido to buy some nopales (cactus), tortillas and some steak for our dinner (as you do). As I got to the top of the escalators the female security officer had stopped an American guy of around 50, to check his bag. He was at least six feet, and she was four feet, on a good day, standing on a box with stilts. She asked for his receipt and all hell broke loose. He turned and sprinted back into the supermarket, throwing bottles of vodka and cans of beer as he did so. I chased him down the aisle and he came face to face with the 'Tiny Security Services' girl who had run down the next aisle. He threw her to the ground, extremely forcefully and she smashed her elbow on the edge of a shelf. He ran for the exit, and I dived through the air like Jackie Chan and took him down. Within seconds there were fifty people watching. I got him to his feet and held on to the back of his shirt as more security guards and Chedraui staff arrived. He made another break for it, pulled away from me, pushing two more guards aside. He then flew over a supermarket trolley and fell on his front. YouTube instruction kicked in. I lay on top of his back, put him in a choke hold and rolled over onto my back. I held him tightly until he was subdued. (Semi-unconscious). Four army guys came rushing up the escalator, pushed through the crowd and took over. In his large drawstring bag were four more litres of Smirnoff vodka and eight cans of Indio lager. I acted as translator to try and avoid him time in a Mexican jail. They eventually agreed to let him pay triple for the goods, but he had no money and no passport. He was taken away.

I don't know what you all think of this from a moral standpoint. If he had stolen food, I may not have intervened. But when he knocked down 'Tiny Security', that was it for me. Everybody has a story and people do hit hard times, but he was wearing designer sunglasses, smart watch and clothes, and an expensive laptop in his bag and he stole alcohol, so it was odd. Why come to Mexico for a holiday, as he claimed, and then shoplift. Not a clever move. Now I am sitting here feeling super guilty that he is sitting in jail. Cathy, who I was supposed to meet in the Supermarket, was oblivious to the commotion in another section of the supermarket, and assumed I was running late, until she saw him sprawled on the floor and Police everywhere.

Professor Alfonso Caso AndradeMonday 12/02/2024: Recently Google Doodle honoured a distinguished Mexican archaeologist and professor Alfonso Caso Andrade, born in 1896, who died at 74 in 1970, leaving behind an invaluable legacy for the understanding of Mexico's ancient cultures. One of his most notable achievements was the first major excavation of the pre-Columbian city of Monte Albán in Oaxaca, which I have mentioned before. The "doodle" is a daily feature by which Google celebrates a person or historical event with an image and a biography. Some doodles are region- or country-specific. Caso's Doodle shows him holding a book as he stands in front of a shovel, books, and ancient artifacts. Behind him is a pyramid and the word "Google" emblazoned on stones, with one of the O's represented by the cover of Caso's book. In 1932, excavations at Monte Albán unearthed Tomb Seven, one of the richest burial sites ever found. Using the remarkable burial offerings in the tomb, Caso was able to outline a history of Monte Albán dating back to the 900s AD. Writing books about his findings and methodology, he began to focus on the Mixtecs (Ñuu Savi), an Indigenous people of southern Mexico. Caso discovered Mixtec sites around the country in Yucuita, Yucuñudahui and Monte Negro. In a major step forward for the field of archaeology, Caso learned to read Mixtec codices, also shown before in logs. Caso focused on protecting Mexico's archaeological heritage and took significant steps to safeguard the traditions and history of Indigenous communities. When you visit many archaeological sites, it is Caso Andrade you have to thank for their well-being.

Kelvin KiptunTuesday 13/02/2024: As some of you know my very early life was in Kenya where my father was working for The British Council. At the time he used to run with the up-coming Kenyan athletes and some of them went on to compete in the Olympics. Although a toddler I watched them slog out the miles across the country where we lived. Black runners and one white guy. I have just learnt that another Kenyan athlete, Kelvin Kiptun, has died in a car crash in Eldoret, where we travelled many years ago.

Car Crash Several Kenyan athletes have been killed in car and bus crashes on Kenya's dangerous pot-holed and dirt roads. Others have been murdered. Kiptun was only 24 and had broken the world record for the marathon at 2hrs and 35 seconds!! He was to attempt to run under 2 hours in the upcoming Rotterdam marathon and probably would have achieved this incredible time. You must run 26 miles at 4min 36 seconds per mile pace for this!! Sad day.

Valentines Day Wednesday 14/02/2024: Today is Valentine's Day but where did Valentine's Day originate? We do know that February has long been celebrated as a month of romance, and that St. Valentine's Day, as we know it today, contains references to both Christian and ancient Roman tradition. But who was Saint Valentine, and how did he become associated with this ancient rite? The Catholic Church recognizes at least three different saints named Valentine or Valentinus, all of whom were martyred. One legend contends that Valentine was a priest who served during the third century in Rome. When Emperor Claudius II decided that single men made better soldiers than those with wives and families, he outlawed marriage for young men. Valentine, realizing the injustice of the decree, defied Claudius and continued to perform marriages for young lovers in secret. When Valentine's actions were discovered, Claudius ordered that he be put to death. Others insist that it was Saint Valentine of Terni, a bishop, who was the true namesake of the holiday. He, too, was beheaded by Claudius II. Another Valentine may have been killed for attempting to help Christians escape harsh Roman prisons, where they were often beaten and tortured. According to one legend, an imprisoned Valentine sent the first "valentine" greeting himself after he fell in love with a young girl, possibly his jailor's daughter, who visited him during his confinement. Before his death, it is alleged that he wrote her a letter signed "From your Valentine," an expression that is still in use today. Although the truth behind the Valentine legends is murky, the stories all emphasize his appeal as a sympathetic, heroic and, most importantly, romantic figure. By the Middle Ages, perhaps thanks to this reputation, Valentine became one of the most popular saints in England and France. Much of this information and a lot more can be found « in this link » it is worth reading.

Peace, love and respect to all from me and Cathy Nel.

UPS AND DOWNS

Mexican War Propaganda Tuesday 23/01/2024: To open this log some info on why Mexico is a much smaller land mass than it was in the distant past. One hundred and seventy-six years ago today, at the end of the Mexican American war, when Mexico had to sign a treaty in which Mexico's territory became 55% percent smaller and the United States' territory grew by more than half a million square miles. What are now the states of California, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, and parts of Arizona, Colorado, Oklahoma, Kansas and Wyoming, once Mexican soil, became United States territory. This concession, which forever changed the political, economic and social fate of North America, was stipulated in the terms of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, signed on February 2, 1848. The treaty stipulated that Mexicans who resided in the territories previously belonging to Mexico were free to stay in their homes or move south to the Mexican Republic if they so wished and could keep their property or sell it without "being subjected to any contribution, tax, or charge." They were also free to retain their Mexican citizenship or acquire U.S. citizenship, but not both. The Mexican American War was an invasion of Mexico by the United States Army from 1846 to 1848. It followed the 1845 American annexation of Texas, which Mexico still considered its territory because Mexico refused to recognize the Treaties of Velasco, signed by President Antonio López de Santa Anna after he was captured by the Texian Army during the 1836 Texas Revolution. The Republic of Texas was de facto an independent country, but most of its Anglo-American citizens who had moved from the United States to Texas after 1822 wanted to be annexed by the United States. At the time, the President of the United States was James K. Polk. Polk was a firm believer in "manifest destiny," that the United States had a divinely ordained duty, ordained by God, to expand west across North America. He was determined to take more than Texas and did so. Sounds a familiar excuse for annexation!! So, Mexicans crossing the border into the States are going back to their homeland.

Handwriting Thursday 25/01/2024: How many times a week do you pick up a pen to use for writing. Once, twice or never? If you don't it may be a cause for your lack of memory! As digital devices progressively replace pen and paper, taking notes by hand is becoming increasingly uncommon in schools and universities. Using a keyboard is the norm because it's often faster than writing by hand. And everybody does it. However, handwriting has been found to improve spelling accuracy and memory recall. Brain connectivity patterns are far more elaborate than when typewriting on a keyboard and is known to be crucial for memory formation and for encoding new information. This is beneficial for learning. Hitting a key with the same finger repeatedly is less stimulating for the brain. This also explains why children who have learned to write and read on a tablet, can have difficulty differentiating between letters that are mirror images of each other, such as 'b' and 'd'. They literally haven't experienced what it 'feels' like to produce those letters. Handwriting is now being taught is some schools to improve cognitive ability. Similarly, how often in a public space do you see anybody reading a book? No. It is keyboard manipulation on a mobile device. Disaster for future innovators and creativity.

Mescal Sunday 28/01/2024: Back to things Mexican. My nearest large town is Oaxaca which is known for producing a popular drink. In Mexico you cannot miss Mezcal, Latin American Spanish: [mes?kal], sometimes spelled mescal, a distilled alcoholic drink made from any type of agave. The word mezcal comes from Nahuatl mexcalli, which means "oven-cooked agave", from metl and ixcalli. Traditionally the word "mezcal" is used for all agave spirits and it is used whether these spirits have been legally certified as "mezcal" or not. The Centro Cultural del Mezcal in Oaxaca city is a mezcal mecca: it features more than 350 different labels of mezcal. It is the only place in Mexico, and the world, where you can find such an amount and variety of mezcal to taste, learn about and buy. The cultural centre displays different colours of mezcal and mezcals bottled with scorpions, insects, or snakes, yes a fact, and some infused with a variety of animal meats, such as mezcal de pechuga, chicken or turkey breast mezcal. Oaxaca is the leading producer and exporter of mezcal in Mexico, accounting for 96.1% of the trade. When here you had better sample this freely available pick-me-up. Perhaps not the scorpion variety as you never know you might get more 'sting' than expected.

Tuesday 30/01/2024: I recently took a short ride south down the coast to Costa Azul from where a fisherman, José Salvador Alvarenga, born c. 1975 in Garita Palmera, Ahuachapán, El Salvador disappeared on November 17, 2012, and was found on January 30, 2014, on the Ebon Atoll on the Marshall Islands surviving 14 months at sea in a fishing boat with another man, Ezequiel Córdoba, who died during the voyage. He survived mainly on a diet of raw fish, turtles, small birds, sharks and rainwater. He beached on Tile Islet, a small island that is part of Ebon Atoll. Two locals, Emi Libokmeto and Russel Laikidrik, found him naked, clutching a knife and shouting in Spanish. He was treated in a hospital in Majuro before being flown home to El Salvador. Alvarenga's story was heavily reported worldwide despite initial criticism from doubters. He is the first person in recorded history to have survived in a small boat lost at sea for more than a year. Most of the time he 'housed' himself cramped in an upturned ice-box to shield himself from the sun and wind. It was even more stressful for Alverenga, if that's possible, when he had to re-enter normal habitation, suffering from hallucinations and nightmares. You can read an account of his venture in '438 Days' by Jonathan Franklin and by clicking on the linked image below.

José Salvador Alvarenga

Sunday 04/02/2024: My logs have covered many aspects of culture from around the world so as it is the start of a new month, I now include an item related to the East. Lunar New Year is the beginning of the new year based on the lunar calendar or lunisolar calendar. Lunar calendars follow the lunar phase while lunisolar calendars follow both the lunar phase and the time of the solar year. The event is celebrated by numerous cultures in various ways at diverse dates but now is the usual time of year. The more well-known celebrations include New Year's Day in the Chinese calendar when the year is re-named. This year is the Year of The Dragon. Likewise the Tibetan calendar of East Asia; the Buddhist and Hindu calendars of Southeast and South Asia; the Islamic calendar and the Jewish calendar that originated in the Middle East; and the Nisga'a calendar from Canada.

Chinese Year Of The DragonThe first mentioning of the celebration of the start of a new year was recorded in Han dynasty (202 BC – 220 AD). In the book Simin Yueling, written by Eastern Han's agronomist and writer Cui Shi, the celebration was recorded as such, "The starting day of the first month, is called 'Zheng Ri'. I bring my wife and children, to worship ancestors and commemorate my father." Later he wrote: "Children, wife, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren all serve pepper wine to their parents, make their toast, and wish their parents good health." People also went to acquaintances' homes and wished each other a happy new year. In the Later Han Volume 27, a county officer was recorded going to his prefect's house with a government secretary, toasting to the prefect and praising the prefect's merit. Lunar new year is the grandest ancient traditional festival in China, commonly known as "Guo Nian".

Dusting OffThis festival celebrates the beginning of spring and the arrival of the new year. The customs of Chinese lunar new year include buying New Year's goods and having family dinner together. So Happy New Year to whoever, wherever.

Wednesday 07/01/2024: Lastly Cathy and I may be starting a new venture this month as befitting a new year and more of this next time all being well. But just to say that Cathy has found a novel way to avoid housework as in the photo.

Bananas and pea soup. Spencer.

Back Wheel Off MORE FROM MEXICO

Monday 15/01/2024: In the last log I said I would finish the account of my tyre incident of getting the new one across the border between Colombia and Venezuela so here we go. It is, of course, an extract from my book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat'. I left my bike, without back wheel, on the Venezuelan side of the border hoping to return quickly with a new tyre. Not quite so easy as recounted in my previous log.

Luckily, my guardian angel turned up, hopping, I grant you; no wings to be seen, but he was my particular, tyre saving, guardian angel. Andres Leonardo Jose Luis. I am convinced that he just picked the four most popular names in Venezuela and used them when necessary.

"Andres Leonardo Jose Luis, alternative customs agent," he said, but added, "Just call me Rafael."

So, what is the point of your other four names? It transpired that; let's call him ALJLR, for short, could help me, with the complicated issue of importing my tyre into Venezuela.

"I can deliver this tyre in fourty minutes, to Venezuela," he said confidently, his thin, high cheekbone face breaking into a grin, revealing irregular, yellow teeth. He had a sparkle in his blue eyes, that I trusted.

"How are you going to manage that?" I asked.

"No problem, I take tyre."

I forgot to mention that my long-named friend, only had one leg, but the title of the Chapter gave a hint. The other leg was replaced by what looked suspiciously like a broom handle, connected to a piece of rounded car tyre that was bound to his stump. Maybe he needed a spare tyre and saw me as easy pickings. He could go off road, with that leg, with my tyre. Everything was strapped together with; a biker's dream; duct tape.

I didn't want to make a big thing about his one leggedness, what with political correctness. I don't want to make anybody feel awkward. We are equal, even if you have one leg. Well, obviously not in the final of the Olympic's 100 metres, but you get my point. The fact that Rafael had one leg, was not his defining feature. He had decent ears.

Mattress CarriersAnyway, Peg-Leg's plan was to pop the tyre over his neck, hop down to the jungle, hop through the river, hop through the Sugar cane, and hop out the other side, victorious. Who was I to argue? It didn't sound like a very balanced plan to me (Joke). Long John Silver smelt some gold, and would probably be hopping mad, if I refused his offer. It is difficult times. Try standing in his shoe. To cut a long leg, sorry; story short, I accepted, and my hopping smuggler was successful. After about fourty five minutes, as predicted, he popped out the other side, singing 'Lean on me'. No, he didn't, but he did give the customs and the militia the thumbs up. I suspect he was in cahoots with them, but I didn't care. Top man, and we could now contemplate the twelve-thousand-kilometre detour through the Amazon. So glad we couldn't get through. Everything happens for a reason.


Incidentally others were adopting illegal crossings as in the photo above.

Edgar Allen Poe Wednesday 17/01/2024: Now to an item off-track but this date brought something to mind. It may be of some interest that on this day Edgar Allan Poe was born in Boston in 1809. Many will know him as an author of horror stories, but he was also poet, the 'Raven' being his most well-known, editor, and literary critic who is best known for his short stories, particularly his tales of mystery and the macabre. He is widely regarded as a central figure of Romanticism and Gothic fiction. Poe is considered the inventor of the detective fiction genre and as a science fiction writer. Poe had a problematic early life. He was supported by his stepfather but Poe's drinking and gambling lead to fraction. In 1835, at age 26, Poe obtained a license to marry his cousin Virginia Clemm, who was then age 13; they were married for 11 years until her death, which may have inspired some of Poe's writing. He wrote for newspapers for some time and began writing poetry and short stories but never had a steady income. Today he would be rich as many of his stories have been filmed. On October 3, 1849, Poe was found semiconscious in Baltimore, "in great distress, and... in need of immediate assistance". He was taken to the Washington Medical College, where he died on Sunday, October 7. Poe was not coherent long enough to explain how he came to be in his dire condition and why he was wearing clothes that were not his own. He is said to have repeatedly called out the name "Reynolds" on the night before his death, though it is unclear to whom he was referring. His attending physician said that Poe's final words were, "Lord help my poor soul". All the relevant medical records have been lost, including Poe's death certificate. Newspapers at the time reported Poe's death as "congestion of the brain" or "cerebral inflammation", common euphemisms for death from disreputable causes such as alcoholism. The actual cause of death remains a mystery. Speculation has included delirium tremens, heart disease, epilepsy, syphilis, meningeal inflammation, cholera, carbon monoxide poisoning, and rabies. One of these would probably be sufficient but at least he did not have to suffer the terror of 'The Pit and the Pendulum.'

Battle Of Cerro Gordo Friday 19/01/2024: Now to an entry related to Mexican history. General Antonio López de Santa Anna, President of Mexico, held an elaborate funeral for a leg he had lost while fighting. Seems legs are a theme in this log! This wasn't the end for the prized leg, though. Illinois soldiers would later discover the burial site and carry the leg home as a spoil of war. It's still displayed in an Illinois museum despite numerous appeals from the Mexican government to return it. Read on. You will see he was a man of many legs. López de Santa Anna's most personal and ignominious incident in the Texas war was the capture during the Battle of Cerro Gordo of his prosthetic cork leg, not his actual leg. A second leg, a peg, was also captured by the 4th Illinois and was reportedly used by the soldiers as a baseball bat; it is displayed at the home of Illinois Governor Richard J. Oglesby, who served in the regiment.

General Lost His LegThe President, now without a leg to stand, hopped about for some time, had another replacement leg made which is displayed at the Museo Nacional de Historia in Mexico City. After his death the prosthetic leg played a role in international politics. As relations between the U.S. and Mexico warmed during the run-up to World War II, the leg was due to be returned to Mexico in 1942. The Association of Limb Manufacturers wanted to be part of the repatriation ceremonies. It was agreed to return the prosthetic, but the National Guard denied the transfer and remains as a trophy in the Illinois State Military Museum. Lopez was President of Mexico 11 times from 1833 to 1855 but was a disaster for the country, losing first Texas and then much of the current American West to the United States. Probably should have legged it after his first Presidency!

Obstacle Course by Dave Carpenter Sunday 22/01/2024: To say farewell for today after all the long entrees a problem for you to solve. Can you complete the course in the pic by Dave Carpenter. Happy birthday to anyone. Spencer.

Some of you have purchased the DVD of my Africa journey from Duke Video but you may wish to check out a compiled video on you tube which is an overview of the whole circumnavigation.

< ENJOY! >

NEW START, MEXICO 2024

Roscones ReyesSunday 07/01/2024: The log starts after the Christmas break and a week into the New Year. January the 6th marks the end of the holiday season in Mexico, as in the rest of Latin America and Spain. On this day, Mexican families and friends hold gatherings and enjoy eating the traditional sweet bread named Rosca de Reyes, known in English as Three Kings' Cake. Placed inside the bread is a baby Jesus figurine in reference to the Biblical passage describing how Mary and Joseph had to hide baby Jesus from King Herod. Whoever finds the figurine is responsible for treating guests to tamales on February the 2nd, Día de la Candelaria – the last of the Winter events and gatherings in Mexico. Although the tradition is deeply rooted in Mexican culture and strongly associated with Catholicism, the Spaniards only adopted it after the conquest, who inherited the tradition from the Romans. However, it didn't have a religious meaning for them. In Spain, people do not hide a baby Jesus figurine inside the bread, nor is the tradition connected to the above Nativity passage. Instead, the Spanish hide a dried bean in the bread representing bad luck, and whoever finds it must pay for the rosca. That the Rosca de Reyes took on a religious meaning in Mexico is a result of the influence of Catholicism in Mexico's Christmas traditions, many of which are still alive across the country. There were no beans in my cake. Not surprising as I didn't have any.

Alligator LizardMonday 08/01/2024: Scientists have discovered an 'alligator-like' creature that was seen hanging 60 feet in the air from treetops in Mexico. Although 'alligators' can be found in other geographical regions this 'unusually large' species was found in southern Mexico and is said to have avoided detection by hiding themselves in the foliage. The reptile has been dubbed Abronia cunemica, after Cuñemo, the 'indigenous Zoque language' name for Coapilla, a town in the Mexican state of Chiapas. The rim of their eyes is a 'pale yellow' and accompanied by dark spots. The species inhabits the forest canopy which can range from 11 to 64 feet tall. Alligator lizards, in general, are only found in 'humid highland forests' in Central America. They are also rarely seen due to limited distribution areas. (Photo Jim Zuckermann).

Tuesday 09/01/2024: Living in Eswatini (Swaziland) for the early part of my life two recent pictures, included below, reminded me of errors that were often in The Times of Swaziland and one such was...

"the hospital manager is pleased to announce that the rapist has arrived to treat patients'".

I wonder what therapy was given?

Pig Advice

Thursday 11/01/2024: As I have little to report I include an extract from my book on South America for insight into how to cross borders with 'contraband!'. Whilst in Venezuela I needed a new back tyre for my Yamaha but impossible to get one in that country. Being near the border with Colombia I decided go there as I was told there was a supplier only a kilometre into the country. At the time Colombia had stopped all traffic across the bridge so decided to use two feet, better than one.

In Cucuta I bought an original Micheloon Sirac, the famous French brand, with spelling mistakes; evidently one hundred percent genuine parts. They wanted $108. I nearly died on the spot. Enough to buy a sixteen-bedroom house in Venezuela, with six Miss Worlds looking after you. Oh well, what choice did I have. At least it was a genuine tyre from Parriss, Froonce.

On return, three hundred metres from the border control, around a bend, (not me; the geographical location), out of view I removed the red and white price tag, and various guarantee stickers and rolled the tyre in a red mud puddle, and then along the road, in the dust. I even rubbed it on a rock to give it some wear. That did nothing. Would have taken about three weeks to look worn. Anyway. Job done. I had cunningly disguised a tyre as second-hand, one that I had picked up in Cucuta, from a long-lost friend. I walked across the bridge towards customs, with zero confidence. I overcompensated for my nonchalance and ended up walking, tyre slung over my shoulder, like John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever. The Colombian customs were the first to deal with at a check point in the centre of the bridge. I was alone, apart from the other fifteen thousand on the bridge. I would have been anonymous, but unfortunately, I was a head height taller than any refugee. They clocked me, and my original Mootzler Enduro 3 tyre from miles away. Time for some African bravado.

"Hello, can I pass please. Here are my papers. I picked up this old, very old tyre, used many times, by numerous people. I could never afford a new tyre, so I got this tyre from an old friend. He is not as old as the tyre though."

Cucuta CrossingHis answer was in Spanish, but translates roughly as, "That is a brand-new tyre over your shoulder, Mr... Travolta. You bought it at the Moto tyre centre, near the Cucuta Mall from Andre. Then you rolled it in a puddle, around the corner, so we couldn't see you. Then you rubbed it on a rock, to make it look worn."

Neither of those comments happened, but I got busted. I turned around, with my tyre and went back to Colombia. Time for 'Cunning Plan 2', never give up. Especially for that price.


To learn what transpired I will tell in my next Log.

That's it for this week so keep up the good work, 'whatever' as they say, who ever 'they' is. Like. Love Spencer and roast beef and mayonnaise.

MEXICO GREETINGS

Tuesday12/12/2023: By the time you read this it will be 2024 so at the time of writing there is not that much to report as Christmas is rapidly approaching so life on hold at the moment. But for now, Mexico continues to surprise as new aspects of Mayan life keep being discovered so here a rather long piece on the ancient civilisation. Lidar has revealed the oldest and biggest Maya structure yet found. Airborne mapping has unveiled a society that from its beginnings made extensive excavations at a previously unknown site in Mexico, called Aguada Fénix. The new discovery adds to recent evidence that from its very beginnings, around 3,000 years ago, the Maya civilization built monumental structures. This discovery is the result of the use of airborne remote sensing, called lidar, is dramatically changing how archaeological research is carried out in heavily forested regions. The technique, which uses laser pulses to gather data on the contours of jungle- and vegetation-covered land, has uncovered other lost ruins at the Maya city of Tikal in Guatemala and a vast network connecting ancient cities of Southeast Asia's Khmer Empire.

Aguada FenixThe research uses lidar to peer through forests in Tabasco, Mexico and uncover the previously hidden surface remains of 21 ceremonial centres, including Aguada Fénix. Lidar mapping showed that each site contains a round or square mound near a long, rectangular plateau measuring about 1,400 meters long and nearly 400 meters wide. Lidar revealed other structures around the human-built plateau, including rectangular buildings, plazas, and several reservoirs. Discoveries at Aguada Fénix challenge a traditional assumption that only large settlements directed by kings and a ruling class could organize and execute big building projects. No remnants of a royal class that appear at later Maya sites, such as sculptures of high-ranking individuals, have been found at the site. People living in the region around Aguada Fénix, who were cultivating maize 3,000 years ago, must have banded together to create a ritual site suitable for large gatherings. Nine causeways connected to the site's rectangular platform carried processions of those participating in rituals. A set of jade axes excavated in the centre of the platform may have been deposited during a ritual event. The Olmec society, which was located west of Aguada Fénix near Mexico's Gulf Coast and is known for constructing giant stone heads, served as a "mother culture" for the Maya. That mysterious culture arose around 3,500 years ago and lasted until roughly 2,400 years ago. The more one learns about the Olmec society the more fascinating it becomes.

Christmas Runners Wednesday 13/12/2023: Have you made a New Year's resolution? Read on! Many of you will know of a running tradition that has spread throughout the world known as Park Runs. Held every Saturday morning at 9am in 1,234 different locations across the UK (and in hundreds more across the globe), the parkrun is a free, friendly 5km run and a firm fixture in many runners' diaries. Some park runs are run even on Christmas Day when Christmas costumes are a must. The oldest park run in the world is the picturesque Bushy Park parkrun in southeast London. Despite the fact that it is not a race there are still records for the event. Recently Ciara Mageean broke the women's Parkrun world record in Belfast with a new mark of 15 minutes 13 seconds for 5km. This is seriously fast. The 31-year-old, the 2023 BBC Northern Ireland Sports Personality of the Year, ran the Victoria Park course 18 seconds faster than previous holder, Welsh athlete Melissa Courtney-Bryant. If you haven't yet participated in a park run why not make it a new year's resolution. It's fun.

Monday 18/12/2023: Some of you may remember the escape from the jaws of death of a crocodile of one twin in a lagoon near where I live. The twin who fought off the crocodile plans to complete a charity river swim to help people with post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD). Georgia Laurie, 30, from Sandhurst in Berkshire, punched the crocodile in the face when it attacked her twin Melissa in Escondido in June 2021. While Melissa is almost completely recovered, Georgia says that they are both still suffering from the mental impacts of the attack. She said they had an "overwhelming desire to make something positive about what happened". The twins were swimming in a lagoon near Puerto Escondido when Melissa was dragged under the water. Both were treated in hospital where Melissa developed sepsis and was put into a medically induced coma. While she is not suffering from many long-term physical after-effects, recovering mentally "takes a bit more time", Georgia said. They have both suffered from disassociation linked to PTSD. So hope goes well for the brave girls.

Melissa And Georgia - Crocodile Survivors

Wednesday 20/12/2023: Now from an example of female courage to a little know fact about the 'feminine' roles of women. Skeletal remains of women reveal that some hunter-gatherer females fought in battles as damage from arrows and sharp objects such as knives, comparable to skeletal injuries of male warriors, are visible. Individuals from native American groups in central California, who lived around 5,000 years ago have wounds. Women were probably killed in surprise raids and other attacks, which may partly explain female injuries. Some women may have fought in battles, either to defend their children or village or as warriors.

Women Warriors Around The WorldAnother skeletal analysis suggests that nomadic herders in ancient Mongolia, bordering northern China, trained some women to be warriors during a time of political turbulence and frequent conflicts in the Xianbei period between 147 to 552. Although evidence is scarce upper body remains show that women regularly used bows to shoot arrows, including physical signs where shoulder and chest muscles attach to bone, which does not mean that this was from conflict, more likely from hunting. But arrowhead injuries to the face and head suggest that wounds were not the result of peaceful activities. Further research is ongoing to determine the actual prevalence of warrior women. Around the world there are stories of such women so google The Amazons. < click onto this link > for one such romanticised episode.

Salutations From Cathy And SpencerSunday 24/12/2023: Of course, this is Christmas eve so hope all had a nice day and here in Mexico there will be many celebrations and religious services. Cathy and I will spend it quietly reflecting on the past year and contacting family and friends. It will soon be New Year so to end, best to all for 2024, and leave you with a song by the worldwide popular group ABBA. Love Spencer and Cathy

< ENJOY! >

ANOTHER MONTH

Friday 01/12/2023: Firstly, a topic I have touched on before. Coming up to Christmas and one reason why it looks like the festive season every December is the appearance of thousands, if not millions, of bright red poinsettias, Mexico's gift to the Yuletide world. Before the arrival of the Spanish in 1519, the plant was ornamental and grown in the gardens of rulers such as Moctezuma II and Nezahualcóyotl. Many cultures in Mesoamerica considered red to be related to power. The Mexica (Aztecs) used poinsettia pigment to dye textiles. In those times, green parts of the plant were used to increase breast milk production and help fight skin infections. Franciscan monks from Spain used the flower to decorate their altars in Mexico and started calling it nochebuena because it bloomed during the Christmas season.

PoinsettasChristmas Eve is known as nochebuena in Spanish. Many monks were based in what is the current state of Guerrero, which Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first U.S. minister to Mexico, visited at Christmastime 1825. Also, an amateur botanist, Poinsett, after whom the plant is named, sent some specimens to the Bartram Botanical Garden in Philadelphia and from there the flower became popular. Nearly 100 varieties of poinsettia are known but no more than 30 varieties are grown in Mexico where the red flower accounts for 90% of production. There are also white, yellow, pink and salmon colours, as well as striped and marbled varieties. In Mexico, the plant is also called Christmas Flower, the Star of Christmas, Easter Flower or Easter Fire Flower as it often blooms around Easter time. In Nahuatl, its name is cuetlaxochitl, which means "flower that withers." Euphorbia pulcherrima is its scientific name. So, when you gift a poinsettia this Christmas remember they originated in Mexico.

Sunday 03/12/2023: Next a not so seasonal article. Bog Bodies!! What? Well yes as Bog bodies have fascinated scientists for decades. The preserved corpses, naturally mummified in a peat bog, offer a snapshot of life as far back as thousands of years ago. Most of these bodies found in bogs seem to have met a 'gruesome' end before being intentionally discarded into wet, spongy bogland. Research reveals that burying bodies in bogs is a millennia-long, deep-rooted tradition that began in southern Scandinavia, around 5000 BC, and gradually spread over Northern Europe. The majority appear to have met a grisly end – including ritualistic sacrifices, executions, and victims of violence. Causes of death include blows to the head, cutting or stabbing, hanging or strangulation and shooting. Sources also indicate there were a significant number of accidental deaths in bogs, as well as suicides. Porsmose Man, dating from the Neolithic age, met a violent death. Bone arrowheads were found embedded in his skull and sternum.

Tollund ManTollund Man, 2,400 years old, found in Denmark, was killed, and then carefully buried, with his eyes and mouth closed shut and his body in a foetal position, so maybe a sacrifice to the gods. Lindow Man, the best-preserved peat bog body to be found in Britain, had distinct facial features and even hair and a beard when he was unearthed in 1984. Examination of the remains revealed he was in his 20s of average height, was well-built and in good health, and lived around 2,000 years ago. Closer inspections revealed that he suffered from intestinal parasites and his last meal was unleavened bread. Theories as to how he was killed include blows to the head, garrotting, or a possible stab wound to the neck before he was placed face-down in the waters of the peat bog. So, when looking for a cheap burial ground seek out a bog!! If you want to learn more about Bog Bodies, < click onto this link > ...rather long but informative. Bland commentary!

Doughnuts Tuesday 05/12/2023: Before Christmas there is always an increase in the demand for food goodies so coming after the diet of bog man something a little more wholesome. Not unleavened bread. The American company marketing Krispy Kreme donuts has opened an outlet in Paris and long queues formed overnight when the store was due to open. Farewell croissants. In Mexico the owners of three fake branches of Krispy Kreme donuts bought them from a counterfeit company cloning genuine Krispy Kreme produce. Of course, the businesses did not have permission to use the international brand name and after searches, donuts, packaging bearing the brand name and boxes with logos and large amounts of cash were seized. The vendors were arrested, and surplus donuts seized. It is not known where the confiscated boxes of donuts disappeared to. However, several officers were seen licking their lips after the raid.

Miss Mexico Thursday 07/12/2023: The conclusion of the 2023 Miss Universe pageant in El Salvador, won by Miss Nicaragua a week ago, was a good news, bad news situation for Mexico. The good news: the presenters announced that Mexico will be hosting the next pageant in 2024, estimated to be worth about 1 million pesos (US $58,000). Miss Mexico, who did not do well, wore a colourful costume combining owl and winged-deer alebrije motifs, representing wisdom and focus, with intricate Huichol-inspired beadwork. In El Salvador, Miss Netherlands and Miss Portugal became the second and third trans women to participate, and Miss Nepal received ovations as the first plus-size woman to compete. The organisers of the competition stated that all are very happy because this range of options for competing has widened. 'Beauty now has no limits, and everyone should be part of it.' An additional rule change for 2024 will be the elimination of the upper age limit of 28, a regulation since the pageant began in 1952. In a few years there maybe an over 50/60 age category. Who knows?

Street Art I have often mentioned that Mexico has abundant examples of street art and have posted examples in my photo archive. They are usually highly colourful and produced by talented artists. Street art can be seen in many cities, not just in the capital and I will post some more examples in my photo archive. Rachel Story provided an informative article on street art some time ago and I include some of her text here. Street Art in Mexico has exploded in the last several years. Mexico is no stranger to cultural graffiti as the ancient Mayans and Aztecs covered their temple walls with beautiful imagery. Muralism became famous here in the 1920s after the Mexican Revolution and Mexico has been embracing art on its walls ever since. These days it's experiencing a renaissance, becoming popular with the help of social media. After the Mexican Revolution, the government commissioned murals for public buildings to reinforce its political message. Most of the population was illiterate so the government needed a different way to promote its message. Themes of the murals primarily related to politics, nationalism, and history. Over time, the artists came to reject the common subjects of the murals passed down by the government. They began to depict their own ideas and values. These days murals cover a wide range of themes extending far beyond that of politics and religion. Police don't mind if the artists get permission from the property owners. Artists will even present sketches of their plans to neighbourhood residents before they begin to paint. Such colourful graffiti would brighten up many places around the world, although some cities have already adopted this form of artwork.

Sunday 10/12/2023: It is an age since Cathy and myself were making OUR WAY AROUND South America on my Yamaha and experiencing never to be forgotten landscapes and the varied and exciting culture of the continent. We were lucky to survive several life-threatening situations and one such was brought to mind recently during an interview on adventure Rider Radio. Click on the link and forward 1hr and 10 minutes to listen to Cathy and Spencer dicing with death. Hope you enjoy and have a good day. Peace to all. Cathy and spencer.

< Deep Trouble: Lost in Bolivia - Motorcycle Podcasts Adventure Rider Radio & RAW >

Blow Out Fix

CARRY ON, CARRY ON

Mexico World Cup WinThursday 16/11/2023: This log is a mix of items loosely connected with Mexico, our adopted country, and hopefully of interest to many, so firstly a topic of universal appeal. Football! Fútbol is indisputably the world's most popular sport that is loved, watched, and played by over 265 million, and its growing popularity in Mexico is breaking records yearly. In 2026, Mexico will host the next World Cup alongside the USA and Canada, becoming the first country ever to host the renowned competition three times. Even so the remarkable story of how fútbol became an integral part of Mexican life remains largely unknown. In the early 19th century, Mexico's once prolific silver mines in Real del Monte, in central Mexico, faced an uncertain future. The mines had fallen victim to years of neglect during the country's war for independence with the Spanish. Recognizing an urgent need to rejuvenate this vital part of the national economy, investors in Mexico's silver mines turned to the United Kingdom, specifically to the south coast called Cornwall, to attract experienced miners. It took fourteen months for a mining party to make it to Real del Monte, the highest town in Mexico at 10,000 feet above sea level. The Cornish men introduced the game which was enjoyed by the local Mexicans and the British expatriates. At 4 p.m. daily, Mexican, and English miners paused work for a kickabout. The tradition became part of the working day and quickly spread to nearby towns and regions in Hidalgo. The town of Pachuca, just 14km west of Real del Monte, launched the country's first official football club by the turn of the 20th century. Current estimates show over 8 million play soccer in over 17,000 teams across the country and it's not just a sport for the players, but also for spectators where each game is watched by huge ecstatic crowds.

Montolfier Brothers Balloon FlightSaturday 18/11/2023: Look up! Look up! Is it a bird? Is it a plane? Is it Superman? No! It's a balloon! No! Yes! Recently there has been a balloon festival in Mexico which is a real spectacle. But when did ballooning start? It is as follows. Unmanned balloons were used as early as 220 AD by the Chinese, for military purposes, and which we know as Chinese lanterns, but not until November 21, 1783, did the first balloon carrying a human take flight in Paris. It was in a hot air balloon made of paper and silk by the Montgolfier brothers. The balloon carried two men, Francois Pilatrê de Rozier and Francois Laurent. They stood on a circular platform attached to the bottom of the balloon. They hand-fed the fire through openings on either side of the balloon's skirt. If you ask me that seems dangerous! The balloon reached an altitude of 500 feet and traveled about 5½ miles before landing safely, after 25 minutes, in a farming and vineyard area. The pilots gave bottles of champagne to the startled farmers to calm their fears of demons appearing from the heavens. Well maybe. On December 1, 1783, just ten days after the first hot air balloon ride, the first gas balloon was launched by physicist Jacques Alexander Charles and Nicholas Louis Robert. This flight too started in Paris. The flight lasted 2½ hours and covered 25 miles. The gas used in the balloon was hydrogen, a lighter than air gas that had been developed by an Englishman, Henry Cavendish in 1776, by using a combination of sulphuric acid and iron filings. From these beginnings we now have hundreds of balloons ascending at the same time at festivals around the world. And many records have been made, namely one on 3 July 2002, by Steve Fossett, the first person to fly around the world alone, nonstop, reaching speeds of 200 MPH!!

Pancho Villa's Golden Gun Tuesday 21/11/2023: Now to something closer to earth related directly to Mexico. A golden gun that once belonged to famed Mexican revolutionary Francisco "Pancho" Villa is be sold at auction, with an expected sale price of up to $950,000. Villa's gun is a gold-plated, first-generation Colt Single Action Army Revolver. It has carved pearl grips and two inscriptions of Villa's name, including one on its backstrap that reads, "Al General Francisco Villa/de/Su División del Norte."

Pancho Villa Mexico has designated 2023 as "The Year of Francisco Villa" marking 100 years since "The People's Revolutionary" was assassinated in a shootout on July 20, 1923, after being ambushed in Parral, Chihuahua. Villa remains one of the most famous and popular figures in Mexican history, a Robin Hood–style folk hero remembered as a defender of the common people against the rich and powerful. However, Villa and his band of revolutionaries are also known for a run of murderous cruelty that brought retaliation from both the U.S. and Mexican armies.

Freddie Mercury Thursday 23/11/2023: Wider afield and globally a recent survey has compiled a list of the worlds 10 most popular songs. What would be in your list. Write them down before reading on. Research reveals there are several tracks that adhere to a pattern of catchiness, with Queen's 'We Will Rock You' coming out on top although many scientific researchers have suggested that this song was manufactured in a lab.

< GO CHECK IT OUT HERE! >

'We Will Rock You' is not the only example of the top-ten catchiest songs by the band. Clearly, Queen had a knack for creating songs with lasting impressions, as 'We Are the Champions' also secured the third position on the ranking, while 'Bohemian Rhapsody' is in the sixth spot. Actually, this list is one of many that have been compiled and in others Queen does not even get a mention, whereas The Spice Girls 'Wannabe' is tops in several alternative listings. Really, better believe it.

Mexica Drummers Saturday 25/11/2023: Something quieter but also worth another blast from the past. A treasure-trove of knowledge on 16th-century Indigenous Mexican culture is now available to the global public, The Codex, mentioned before, is a 12-book encyclopedia of Mexica (Aztec) life, written between 1575 and 1577 by Nahua scholars, based on interviews with elders who lived before and during the Spanish conquest. Nahua refers to the Nahuatl-speaking Indigenous people of Mexico and Central America, a group that includes the Mexica. It also contains nearly 2,500 images by Nahua artists, depicting the daily life and mythology of their people. It was co-created and translated into Spanish by the Franciscan friar Bernardino de Sahagún, who hoped that knowledge of Nahua culture would help him convert them to Christianity. This is really a fascinating an eye-opening document revealing the advanced thinking of the Aztecs. < Click on this link to see images from the Codex >

Monday 27/11/2023: That's all for this log but glad to say that my broken wrist is on the mend and should be able to ride soon. Physio helping so have some movement. Take care. Be happy and smile. It helps. Fried bananas and mayonnaise. Spencer

THE YEAR MOVES ON

Saturday 04/11/2023: Start this log with info on my web master John de la Cey who is also a leading member of a popular band in the southeast of England and in other European countries. John has a unique style of guitar playing and very individual manner of dress. To be admired. Thanks for keeping the log up-dated and for your friendship. Value it and keep the gigs going. Best Spencer.

John De La Cey Of Freak FlagMonday 06/11/2023: Experienced strange, unusual, and funny things on my travels and an account of one such I include below from my book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat'.

In Latin America Love Motels (get used to the capital letters, they are important) are big business. Many couples live with their parents well into their late twenties for financial reasons. Understandably most do not want to perform their sexual manoeuvres next to the room where Abuelo is getting ready for bed, or Papi is watching the game on TV. Not conducive to passion. Then of course there are couples that want to role play, and to be honest they are a great place to sneak off for a steamy affair.

The Love Motel industry started in Japan but has spread, (not in that way) throughout the world. The history of Love Motels goes back to the seventeenth century in the Edo period in Japan, where Inns and Teahouses started to provide discreet entry to their venues and even built secret tunnels to allow an even more discreet exit. Modern Love Motels developed from these tea rooms. By the 1960s the widespread introduction of the automobile caused an explosion of the concept of discreet venues where couples and lovers could meet away from the confines of a crowded family home. By 1961 there were more than 2700 Tsurekomi Inns in Central Tokyo alone and by 2019 they were pulling in a staggering revenue of more than sixty billion dollars. South America has adopted Love Motels with fervour and are difficult to escape (not in that way). They are a totally accepted part of Latino culture and it's not uncommon to see giant billboards hanging on bridges or off rafters in local bars, advertising the delights and discretion.

Love MotelThe openness of Love Motels can be jaw dropping when first encountering their existence, but you quickly realise, as a scrooge traveller, that they are cheap and clean, so Cathy and I were really forced into using their facilities when in cities because it is impossible to camp. In fact, after a few basic errors of etiquette we became reasonable experts on Love Motels. (Always use capital letters for Love Motels and when you say the words, your voice must go as deep as possible, a la Barry White, and stretch out the word Luuurve.) Love Motels differ widely in quality and seediness but there is a basic set up and structure that is good to know to ease the shock factor. I certainly embarrassed myself. There is an inner courtyard which is made up of rows of garages, which either have massive pull across curtains or in the more upmarket establishments, remote controlled doors operated by the reception, much to my frustration on a few occasions.

Most rooms have themes whether it be dungeon, jungle, maritime, fantasy, moonscapes, or whatever strikes the fancy of the owner. We saw a cartoon themed Hotel with Mickey Mouse hanging off the roof. Strange. The Love Motel San Felipe, Brazil was predictably called 'The Anaconda' and had a wall surrounding the property that was fifty metres long. It was adorned with a forty-nine metre long fluorescent green and orange Anaconda who had a demented smile on his face. His eyes lit up red also. Considering his head was about the size of a car, as tacky murals go, it was impressive. All the rooms were plush, carpeted jungles with gold vine taps and animal and jungle fauna murals. Or so we were told. That one was a bit too expensive. Love Hotel architecture is not exactly subtle or tasteful, with buildings shaped like boats, UFOs, Castles, Sharks, Octopi, and other marine life and usually lit with enough neon lighting to impress Lapland. One Motel in Argentina was an ornately painted and bejewelled skull, and patrons drove through the mouth to enter the courtyard. Modern Love Motels tend to be a lot blander and more understated and often can only be spotted by the lack of windows.

I won't go on, but I am sure your imagination can complete this episode or read the book.

Monarch Butterflies Friday 10/11/2023: Wow! Another spectacle in Mexico. It is the butterfly season and amongst the thousands that appear in all possible colours you can picture is the Monarch. The first colonies arrived on the morning of November 1, before millions descended in huge clouds by the afternoon. Every year around 250 million butterflies make a journey of some 4,000 kilometres from Canada to nest in the pine and fir forests of Mexico. The name "monarch" is believed to have been given in honour of King William III of England, as the butterfly's main colour is that of the king's secondary title, Prince of Orange. We have ridden through such clouds and stopped to avoid harm to the glorious fusion of flittering colourful wings. Superb. For nature lovers I provide two links for you to engage in the spectacle.

Cloth Dolls< LINK 1 > < LINK 2 >

Sunday 12/11/2023: As well as the season for butterflies it is also the time for dolls! OK These are handmade dolls. Mexico's handcraft traditions remain vibrant today because they are both conservative and innovative at the same time. They maintain a link to the past, often through form and or generations of artisans in the same family, but these same forms and artisans evolve to respond to their changing markets. This fusion works best when artisans find ways to reinterpret culture on their own terms. One example of this is the humble cloth doll. One "indigenous" cloth doll handmade for commercial purposes is the María. She emerged in the 1970s when many Mazahua and Otomi women were eking out a living on the streets of Mexico City. Now is the time to display Mixtec dolls at fairs to gather money for the festive season. You can find dolls dressed in Mixtec clothing made by women who are Mixtecs from Oaxaca.

Cathy And Spencer Monday 13/11/2023: Lastly there has recently been a revival of a parade that has dim and distant origins. It is unique and rather intriguing. A march of robot-like ancient warriors through the streets of Oaxaca. Could be from DR. Who! I am afraid I cannot add more to the information so if anyone can enlighten me please let me know. For a clearer idea of the 'parade' < click onto this link > The video is by Edwin Rosalees.

Wednesday 15/11/2023: Up-date on broken wrist. Still not able to use it and so no bike riding. Not good news. Doctor says it will take time, another month before use!! Big nuisance. However worse things in the world. Fried bananas and anchovy paste. Leave you with photo of Cathy and myself. Spencer.

WHAT'S THE BUZZ?

MarigoldsSunday 22/10/2023: As most of you know The Day of the Dead is near on the Mexico calendar but why is the marigold flower important for Day of the Dead rituals? The cempasúchil flower helps the souls of the dead find their way to the land of the living. Its use is believed to stem from a pre-Columbian story of two lovers named Xóchitl and Huitzilin. According to the tale, after Huitzilin was killed in battle, Xóchitl prayed to the sun god Tonatiuh to reunite them on Earth. Tonatiuh granted her wish by transforming her into a bright golden flower and Huitzilin into a hummingbird. As a hummingbird Huitzilin approached cempasúchil Xóchitl and her twenty petals bloomed, filling the air with their potent fragrance. Nice legend! The cempasúchil is a symbol of life and death and is used to decorate altars, offerings, and burials to honour deceased loved ones.

Heart RateOK, However since pre-Hispanic times, this plant has been used for medicinal purposes. The pigments of the erect tagetes are due to the presence of carotenoids, of which the main one is lutein, which is associated with the prevention of the development of age-related eye diseases such as cataracts and macular degeneration. The most intense orange tones of the flowers are related to a higher content of carotenoids, especially xanthophyll. Some studies indicate the effectiveness of the latter in the prevention of coronary artery disease, heart attacks, immune response, old age and cancer. In some regions of Mexico, it is used for relief of digestive ailments, such as stomach pain, diarrhoea, colic, liver problems, bile, vomiting, indigestion, and other medical problems. Antioxidant activity has been discovered in the essential oil of this plant possibly attributable to the presence of camphor and methyl eugenol. So, look upon this stunning flower with respect it may serve as a cure for an illness someday or to keep your heart beating. Check the pic for the number of heart beats per day!!

Heart Laboratory Tuesday 24/10/2023: Having mentioned the efficacy of marigolds I return to a subject mentioned several times recently. Magic mushrooms. OH! No! I hear you cry. But let it be known that Mexico has more psilocybin-containing mushrooms than any other country. The history of use in Indigenous medicine/spiritual practices is widely known and its status is moving toward legalization, at least for medical uses for treating depression and anxiety. Research at Imperial College London, in the United Kingdom, compared the efficacy of the antidepressant escitalopram (Lexapro) with psilocybin. The study revealed that just two doses of psilocybin appeared to be at least as effective as daily escitalopram pills when administered alongside psychological therapy. Patients receiving psilocybin experienced greater improvement, with double the number achieving remission compared to the antidepressant group. Psilocybin is also used to treat obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD) for managing addiction and boosting creativity and well-being. Before you indulge take care to use sensibly and in a safe environment.

Hurricane Otis Destroys Acapulco HarbourThursday 26/10/2023: We have been hit by another hurricane, Otis, which strengthened very quickly into a major hurricane after being upgraded from tropical storm status on Tuesday morning, flooded homes and roads, toppled trees and caused significant damage to buildings in Acapulco. Winds estimated to be 165 mph (270 km/h) brought by the hurricane shattered residential neighbourhoods with cars, sheet metal, dead animals, trees and billboards floating in water. The sea surge caused significant coastal flooding and was accompanied by large and destructive waves along the southern coast of Mexico. So far 27 have died in Otis. The cost of damage caused by the hurricane is likely to be around US $15 billion. We humans cannot control nature that brings such damage. The flip side is that we ourselves damage nature in many ways.

Friday 27/10/2023: Recently found a stunning artwork but learnt that it was not by a human artist but by AI. The artwork, Théâtre D'opéra Spatial, was produced by Matthew Allen using AI prompts. He attempted to copyright his picture but was told that AI forms cannot be copyrighted as ruled by the US Copyright Office. But how do we define art? This is a matter of debate which is echoed in historical discussion. Now AI has entered the debate and is topical in Mexico.

Théâtre D'Opéra SpatialArtists have unique styles and infuse their art with their own personality. Can a software programme replicate emotions, personality, or vision? People relate to art at a very human level. Many believe that AI-generated art destroys the humanity in art. Mexican filmmaker Guillermo del Toro has called animation created by machines "an insult to life itself. I consume and love art made by humans," the 'Shape of Water' director said that "I am not interested in illustrations made by machine and the extrapolation of information." Mexico has also had problems in protecting Indigenous peoples from cultural appropriation. In 2021, the Mexican government passed a law that prohibits and criminalizes the unauthorized use of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican cultural expressions. And how do you define cultural heritage? Establishing the origin of a cultural expression is complicated as it is passed down from generation to generation and Indigenous culture overlaps at times. There are nearly 17 million Indigenous people in Mexico; at least 68 Indigenous languages; and over 350 variations of those. Most Indigenous art reflects the history, culture, traditions, and spiritual beliefs of the Indigenous community. Can AI generative software replicate that? There is also the problem of Indigenous iconography that is so old that it falls under public domain: a legal back door for any company looking to appropriate Indigenous symbolism. And of course, you can download links to make your own AI images. What is your opinion of Matthew Allen's AI 'creation? Could anyone else have produced such a stunning image? Would it be a clone of the original? Please let me know.

Casa De Tia Tona Sunday 29/10/2023: Halloween is becoming more popular as a day of scariness marked by children and adults dressing in frightening costumes. It is but a few days away and shops in Mexico present customers with Holloween paraphernalia, together with Day of the Dead costumes. This time of year, horror stories become prevalent and one such is marked by reality. Hidden deep in Chapultepec Forest lies "La casa de Tía Toña", aunt Toña's house. Just who exactly Aunt Toña is unclear, but local legend says she was a woman of great wealth. Toña lived alone in this enormous forest mansion and adopted several orphaned children for company. For years, these children stole precious jewels and money from the house, driving Toña insane. One day, she had had enough, and beat the orphans to death, before throwing their bodies in a ditch behind the house. At night, visitors to the house can hear the screams of the children and the sound of Toña's voice, as she tortures them for their misdeeds. The house survives but few dare go to stay. Look carefully and you may see a ghostly image of Tia Tona on a balcony, but you have to have a sixth sense like Bruce Willis!

The Kiss Monday 30/10/2023: Update on Hurricane Otis. The federal government has stated that almost 274,000 homes in Guerrero had been damaged by Otis. The official death toll is now 45 with an additional 47 people missing days after the powerful Category 5 hurricane slammed into the Pacific coast. Acapulco Bay is full of damaged boats and debris following Hurricane Otis. Disaster.

Wednesday 01/11/2023: Another month and still in Escondido. Just been shut in a restaurant, along with other locals, as army and police are hunting for an armed driver who overturned his car and is now on the run. Never a dull moment. Time for a Mexican chili sandwich. But as nothing more to report will sign off biting back the tears. Day of the Dead in full swing so leave you with a photo to cheer you up. Hot peppers to you. Spencer.

FURTHER MUSINGS

Dengue Fever MosquitoSaturday 14/10/2023: Another week nearly gone by but still suffering from broken wrist which does not seem to be healing. Will be going back to hospital today for another check-up. Will let you know the outcome, but I am severely restricted in activities. Could have been worse and also thankful that the effects of dengue fever seem to have at last dissipated. This illness is in the news in Mexico as confirmed cases of dengue have risen over 300% this year compared to 2022, with 71% of all infections detected in just five states. According to the Health Ministry's most recent dengue report, there were 30,320 confirmed cases of the mosquito-borne disease between Jan. 1 and Oct. 7. The Health Ministry also reported that there have been over 167,000 probable cases of dengue this year as well as 48 deaths caused by the disease. Dengue, also known as breakbone fever, is "an illness that affects infants, young children, and adults, with symptoms ranging from mild fever to incapacitating high fever, with severe headache, pain behind the eyes, muscle and joint pain, and rash." After infection with one serotype, subsequent infection with a different serotype increases a person's risk of severe dengue and death. Throughout Mexico efforts are undertaken to eliminate mosquito breeding sites through constant fumigation campaigns and the removal of items like water storage barrels and prevention of places where water can accumulate. Lucky that I have recovered but not so good if I get attacked by dengue carrying mosquitos again.

Day Of The DeadMonday 16/10/2023: In conjunction with the Day of the Dead, Oaxaca, our nearest large town, will this week host storytellers who will share traditional myths and legends, as well as concerts of Indigenous music by groups from the region. Theatre will play its part – the main square of Oaxaca will be the stage for "La Llorona", a play that honours Oaxacan roots. La Llorona "The Crying Woman" or "The Wailer" is a Mexican vengeful ghost who is said to roam near bodies of water mourning her children, who she drowned in a jealous rage, after discovering her husband was cheating on her. Of course, adults and children will don skeleton costumes and horror inducing masks to mark The Day of the Dead. I have previously covered this spectacle and have mentioned it in connection with the James Bond film 'Spectre'.

Wednesday 18/10/2023: If you have read previously about my encounters with Broken Shell, my friendly sea turtle, you will know that it has become a friend of mine since I untangled it from a fishing net and probably save her life. So why mention this again? Sea turtles are endangered, but it's been a promising season for sea turtle conservation in Los Cabos, Baja California Sur, with double the number of eggs recovered this year compared to 2022. Local conservationists have reported that this season 824 protected nests and a total of 84,000 eggs were recovered, double compared to 2022.

Carl By The SeaFive different species of endangered sea turtle are found on the coasts of Baja California. Their numbers dropped sharply at the end of last century but are now showing signs of recovery due to dedicated monitoring, education, and conservation programmes, in which local tourist developments are encouraged to participate. In Escondido waters where Broken Shell swims the local turtle protection group is engaged in such programmes. For an interesting and informative report on sea turtles log onto the link here on < YOUTUBE >. Sure, you will engage with the super creatures.

Thursday 19/10/2023: Last log I included a snippet of an article from the Mexico News about 'Chucky' which has reminded me about an encounter with a real Chucky. We came across a hard looking gang of decidedly dangerous characters in Rio Cuarto, not far from Cordoba, and learnt that one of them was named, of course, Chucky! This is an extract from 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' on my journey through South America.

"So why do they call you Chucky?" I asked, knowing full well that he resembled the doll in the Stephen King film. "It's because he likes to cut people up," was the unexpected answer from the silent eighteen-year-old, Isandro. That shocked us both and silence reigned for a minute. I decided to jump in at the deep end, as is my style. All six of them had livid scars, more than thirty of them, running parallel up their forearms and I couldn't ignore them any longer.
"Why do you all have those cuts?" I asked.
Janik, a man who stared at the floor more than anyone I have ever met said, "Every time one of our gang gets in trouble with the police or army, or with rival gangs, or gets killed, we all cut ourselves," he said, without looking up.
Chucky Bloody hell! They must get in trouble a lot. This was so beyond the realms of what Cathy and I knew as normal, but it is super important not to judge. We are all dealt different cards. Just as it couldn't get odder, Janik suddenly burst into tears. Cathy put her arm on his and said, "Hey, what's wrong?"
He bowed his head and his shoulders convulsed. "His girlfriend killed herself last Thursday evening," said Cyprien, a smooth looking Al Pacino type.
Bloody hell! Again. What next? Well, next was that Chucky decided that he wanted to go to the local booze House and that I was to accompany him. Not a problem and we headed off walking down the road. Chucky kept staring at me and shaking his head in disapproval. Eventually I stopped and said, "Have I done something wrong?" "Yes, you are too tall, I can't walk next to you." "No problem, Chucky, I will come down to your height."
I bent my knees to almost ninety degrees, so that my six foot four could become five foot nothing. "That's better said Chucky." So saved myself from Chucky's wrath and knife!!


Interview with Spencer Conway Saturday 21/10/2023: To close this log I post a link to a recent podcast from Escondido about my travels. < WATCH HERE! > I apologise for it being a long account so if you get bored with my blabbing on just leave it playing and go and make a cup of tea or coffee. It is an interview with ridiculous stories from my circumnavigations of Africa, South and Central America and Mexico, through 54 countries and 230 000 kilometres. Of more interest you might want to click onto the second link which is more dynamic. Its a video of some incidents on my South America trip. Also available is a DVD by Diesel Films on Duke Videos, you can watch the promo < ON THIS LINK >. Hope you enjoy. If you don't get lost sometimes, there is a chance you will never be found.

DVD by Diesel Films on Duke Videos

Peace, love, respect and Scotch Eggs, pickled onions and injury free arms for all.

Mexican Rhythmic Gymnastic Team MEXICO MUSINGS

Sunday 15/10/2023: I must open this log with reference to the terrible situation in Israel, on the other side of the world. It has affected Mexicans here as there are several hundred stranded in the war zone. Caught up in the conflict is the Mexican rhythmic gymnastics team, which has been in Israel to train for the upcoming Pan American Games. It is hoped that the team will soon be evacuated with the help of the Mexican government. Given the seriousness of the situation, flights have been cancelled, leaving the team with no immediate possibility of returning to Mexico. The team coach may make a request for support from the government so that they can return safely as soon as possible. Other citizens will probably benefit as Mexican airlines may resume flights to fly all home safely. The women gymnasts who perform floor routines with hoops, balls, clubs, ribbon, and rope are feeling a good deal of tension and concern but are being housed in a secure compound by the Israelis. By the time you read this hopefully all will be re-patriated. Latest news. Two Mexican Air Force planes departed the Felipe Ángeles International Airport near Mexico City on their second mission to evacuate Mexican citizens from Israel amid Israel's ongoing war with the Palestinian militant group Hamas. 764 Mexicans who want to leave remained stranded after the first two humanitarian flights carrying almost 300 passengers returned to Mexico on Wednesday. As many as 5,000 Mexicans were in Israel and will be flown out. Two Mexicans, a woman and a man, have been taken hostage by Hamas during their attack on Israel last Saturday. It is believed they are being held in the Gaza Strip. The gymnasts are on the way back to Mexico.

Salamander Tuesday 03/10/2023: Now onto another topic which I have briefly covered before but now provide additional information. The amazing salamander!! Because there is one type unique to Mexico. The species Ambystoma mexicanum is a kind of salamander which remains in its larval state all its life. It is not a fish at all, but it does have gills, feathery growths outside its body, as well as lungs. As if that were not enough, the axolotl can also breathe through its skin. These abilities, however, pale before this amphibian's true 'superpower', it can regenerate not only its limbs, but just about every part of its body, including its heart and brain. Yes! True! For this reason, it has been called the Peter Pan of exotic creatures. The word 'axolotl' in Mexica language, by which it was known, means "The god who fears death," perhaps indicating that the pre-Hispanic inhabitants of Mexico associated its ability to regenerate body parts with everlasting life. Legends about this curious creature, often seen in their art, originated with a god who was chosen to be sacrificed but refused the honour and fled. He jumped into a lake and was turned into an ajolote (axolotl). Actually, axolotls as a species had no cause at all to fear death in pre-Hispanic times, but in the 21st century the amazing Mexican walking fish may have good reason to worry about its survival, as its habitat is threatened. Naturally, these characteristics have made axolotls the subject of much research into ways to regenerate human body parts. Would be more amazing if humans could regenerate in the same way. Or perhaps not what one would want.

Maria Sabina Saturday 07/10/2023: We cannot regenerate our physical selves but what about the spiritual? Recently in the news there has been much academic discussion on the use of Magic Mushrooms for curative purposes. This is another topic I have touched on before and, at the risk of being boring, I do so again. In Mexico, the use of magic, or hallucinogenic, mushrooms can be traced back to indigenous cultures that regarded them as sacred and revered for their transformative properties. Many Indigenous groups, such as the Mazatecs, Mixtecs, and Zapotecs, incorporated mushrooms into their traditional ceremonies for healing, divination, and connecting with the spiritual realm. During mushroom ceremonies, a shaman, known as a curandero or curandera, guides participants through the experience, providing a safe and sacred environment. One of the most famous Mexican curanderas is María Sabina, who gained international recognition for her work with well-known personalities, including pop stars, individuals seeking profound insights and healing through traditional mushroom ceremonies. Sabina's interactions with them contributed to a fascination with entheogenic experiences and their potential impact on creativity, spirituality, and personal growth. The mushrooms are often consumed ritualistically, such as being ingested with specific chants, prayers, or offerings. The curandero facilitates the journey, helping individuals navigate their inner landscapes, confront fears, gain insights, and experience profound spiritual revelations. games.

Mexican Shaman As scientific research continues to shed light on the medicinal properties of psilocybin, the legal status of this substance has become a subject of interest. In Mexico, the legalities surrounding psilocybin have undergone significant changes. Although the use of these mushrooms for their psychedelic effects has been documented for centuries, psilocybin has been classified as a controlled substance in many countries. However, the use of psilocybin has been approval by some Health Ministries for use in therapy for patients with terminal illnesses. This has allowed selected patients to access psilocybin-assisted psychotherapy as part of palliative care. As those of you know who have read my book on South America, I have given an account of the use of the 'drug' on some I saw, as directed by a shaman, with frightening results. Perhaps best not to go there.

Monday 09/10/2023: Another item in this log on Mexico Musings is included because of recent excavations of the 14-meter-deep waters of the Sacred Cenote, which is a natural pit, or sinkhole, resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater. The term originated on the Yucatán Peninsula and the Sacred Cenote has found to be the final resting place for over 200 victims of ritual sacrifice some 1000 years ago.

Sacrificial BonesAlmost half were children, averaging between the ages of four to six. There were fewer females than males, and practically all the skulls and other skeletal remains were found with varying degrees of mutilation, suggesting that it was a prolific sacrificial site. Powdery sand at its base was curiously covered in a blue tint, later discovered to have washed off human bodies and other offerings. A deep blue powder, known as Maya blue, was found on remains, which was used primarily by Mesoamerican cultures from about the eighth century until just after the mid-19th century. Fantastic pre-Columbian murals and pottery fragments discovered around archaeological sites show evidence that the colour was exclusive to the gods, or those chosen for ritual sacrifice. The Maya often applied the revered pigment when depicting Cháak, the god of rain who lived in the cenote underworld. Hundreds of people were ritually executed, and their bodies thrown into the waters of the Sacred Cenote at Chichén. A cenote was considered the realm of powerful guardian spirits who protected humans but was also considered the only source responsible for life-giving rain. Rituals are still conducted with offerings to the same spirits that gave good harvests for their ancestors. The Maya believed that cenotes were portals to Xibalba or the afterlife, and home to the rain god, Chaak. The Maya often deposited human remains as well as ceremonial artifacts in these cenotes. Today they are often used by people for swimming but beware as you might find a skeleton paddling beside you!

Urban Art Monday 09/10/2023: This week an art show organized by Jason Schell, himself a well know artist, has opened in Mexico City so as I, like many others, admire the work of urban artists include this next short piece. When it comes to street art, Mexico City is up there on the world stage. Street artists from around the city, the country and the world descend on the streets of Mexico's capital to make their mark on the landscape, bringing to life a variety of designs, from the politically motivated to the aesthetically pleasing, on the walls of city streets. Mexico has long been home to muralists. Diego Rivera, Siqueiros, and Orozco, to name three of the most famous, have murals around the city and beyond that have stood the test of time. In some places, street art has also become corporate, with graphic artists being called upon to create designs that work in the place of billboards to advertise products. While street art is still in many ways a rebellious act, shrouded in illegality, and often ephemeral, a race against the clock before the art is painted over by the city. Nowadays such art is also finding its way into galleries and into art lovers' homes. Hence the exhibition in Mexico City recognising the artistic merit of street artists. I include an example here but also more on the photo archive >

Cast On Wrist Saturday 14/10/2023: Body Bones...

We have 206 bones in our body, Ihave broken about 30. A week ago, I broke my left wrist and tore a tendon.Cathy and I have been quietly searching México for a new location for aMotocamp. We went to visit a jungle site on very steep, rough 'roads'. But this is all academic, because it isimpossible to get to this camp for seven months of the year. The rains washaway any hope of a jungle retreat. This is where I met my match, crashed andbroke my wrist. Luckily Cathy was not 'onboard' as I was running an errand forthe lodge owner, a mere five kilometres to get tortillas. I was on a steepmuddy slope with huge gulleys when the heavens opened, and the road became a river.On a steep downhill section, the back wheel slipped sideways and I was off. Ilanded on my hand and knew my wrist was broken. I made it back to the camp andeventually arranged for a 'camionetta' (pick-up truck) to take us and the bikethe 150 kms back to Puerto. The indigenous Indian driver wanted 2000 pesos(£100) for the trip. Being the Rambo I am, I decided to ride all the way back. 2000 was too much. Cathy expertly bandaged my wrist in duct tape, and we rode 130 kilometres to the Hospital, where I set the bone myself. Respect to Cathy for getting on a bike with a one-armed rider. At the Hospital Angel del Mar (HAM, for short!), they confirmed I had a broken heart, I mean wrist. Another day on the range! I learnt that the 'Tibia' was also damaged, but honest, it wasn't 'humerus'. Joke. And now I have a month in a cast, at least. Still riding though.

Did you know that the funny bone is actually the ulnar nerve hitting the humerus bone, creating a strange sensation. Wish I could laugh about it but seriously it isn't funny. Painful and limiting activities.

On another note, and not a cheap trick for likes - last week Facebook agreed to pay me for my posts and the next day removed 5000 followers and just left friends. Please 'like' if you see this, so I know where I stand.

Top day to you all. Peace, love and, no bones about it, harmony for all.

MORE FROM MEXICO

ChuckyWednesday 20/09/2023: Amusing and rather bizarre things happen in Mexico and one such is that Police in the northern Mexican city of Monclova, Coahuila have arrested a large "Chucky" doll for allegedly threatening passersby. The doll made famous by the 1988 horror film "Child's Play", in which it was possessed by the soul of a criminal before carrying out a series of murders, has long been a fixture of the Halloween season in the country. People regularly dress as Chucky, or their children do, and haunt the streets in search of 'victims'. The Chucky reported in the media was operated by a man known as Carlos "N", who used a large knife to threaten people on the street and demand money. The police were warned, and Carlos and "Chucky" were both arrested and handcuffed. They were charged at the scene with disturbing public order and endangering the public. Images of the handcuffed "diabolical" doll quickly spread on social media. Authorities in Monclova say the police officer who carried out the arrest has been sanctioned for her failure to carry out her duties in an appropriate manner. Why? She handcuffed Chucky at the request of local media! Carlos "N" was released later that day, but there has been no reports as to whether "Chucky" has remained in police custody. Probably languishing in a cell along with other Chuckies.

BeansFriday 22/09/2023: Do you like beans? Not baked beans! Black beans. Mexico has a rich variety of 'foods' that are healthy as well as providing sustenance as the black bean. Beans in general, and black beans in particular, are extremely healthy foods, high in plant-based protein, fibre and antioxidants that help manage cholesterol, sugar and blood pressure levels. While 70% of the calories in black beans come from carbs, they're unique in that their starch content is what's called "resistant starch," meaning that much of it passes through our upper digestive tract without breaking down. Because the starch doesn't convert into sugars, blood sugar levels don't rise. Black beans have a rich hearty flavour and meaty, dense texture that makes fabulous burgers and chili. Refried beans (frijoles refritos), found everywhere in everything, are just cooked beans blended or mashed and then sautéed in oil or manteca (lard), with or without added spices, until they form a spreadable paste. A traditional recipe in Mexico is for a robust soup with a black bean base topped with all your favourite things: chopped avocado and onion, a drizzle of crema, a sprinkling of cilantro, maybe a dash of hot sauce. Now you realise I have taken up the mantle of chef supreme. I can supply other recipes at a small charge.

Sunday 24/09/2023: As I have introduced food into this log, I hope it has aroused your taste buds, so next another piece on the delights of cuisine we experienced on our travels in South America as this extract from my book on the continent recounts. Most will probably wish to taste such a culinary speciality. Or maybe not!

Last SupperThe guinea pig, Cavia Porcellus, Cuy, despite the name, guinea pigs are not native to Guinea, have not even been on holiday to Guinea, and are not even remotely related to pigs. They originated in the Andes and were domesticated as a source of protein and yumminess. They have kiddies every three months, between three and eight, so are totally sustainable, nifty breeders. For five thousand years guinea pigs have fed rural communities in Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile, countries deeply and frequently affected by malnutrition and unemployment. The Cuy features prominently in traditional festivals – famously, a cooked guinea pig lies paws up in the celebrated 1753 painting of 'The Last Supper' by Marcos Zapata in the Cathedral Basilica in Cusco. Guinea pigs were munchies for the Andean people long before they became pets in the west. So, who were we to argue. If it was good enough for Jesus and his disciples, it's good enough for us. The meal was superb and was cut up into a tasty stew. We would not have known it was a guinea pig if we hadn't seen the dismembering. Top chefs in Peru and Colombia have brought the meat back to popularity with roasted, curried, and even sweetened versions appearing on menus. In Ecuador, there is no effort to disguise the Cuy. It is served whole, deep fried and splayed, teeth showing, eyeholes staring upwards, and hands and feet sticking stiffly over the edges of the plate. Served with two, grease dripping, fried potatoes, and anaemic green pulses. The guinea pig looks like an animal run over in a cartoon, driven over a few times, thrown on a fire, thrown on a plate and thrown at the customer.'

Last Meal Tuesday 26/09/2023: Have you ever wondered what prison food is like? Any specia0lities? Probably not, but I discovered that there is one ingredient only for convicts as in the picture. You had better believe it. It's a fact. There's the proof. Probably why some prisoners try to escape!

Wednesday 27/09/2023:
As many of you know when I am in the UK I stay with my father who lives in Biddenden so just for a change I include some info on the village, with thanks to the Parish web site. The village is set in the picturesque countryside of Kent in the Southeast of England. Its main feature is the high street of medieval latticed windowed Flemish weavers' cottages. The pavements are formed with fossilized stone quarried from Bethersden marble. To note, on the village green is an attractive sign, carved and painted by a local crafts man, of a pair of twins, known as the Biddenden Maids. The Biddenden Maids were twin sisters that were born in 1100 who were joined at the shoulders and hips. Elisa and Mary Chulkhurst lived in this condition for 34 years, when one of them died, the other shortly afterwards. For years income gained from 20 acres of land, bequeathed by the two sisters, has been used for the benefit of the poor of the parish. Once a year Bread and Cheese and are given to local widows and pensioners at the Old Workhouse in commemoration of the twins. Biddenden Biscuits, baked from flour and water, are distributed as souvenirs. They bear an effigy of two female figures whose bodies are joined together at the hips and shoulders. I enjoy the village when I stay there once a year and thank the villagers for their friendly welcome and continued interest in my travels. I include a photo of the village from the past but it remains substantially the same today. Hello to Biddendenites.

Biddenden In The Past Saturday 30/09/2023:
A lot of you might wonder why we are loitering in Mexico for so long, as we are supposed to be adventure motorcyclists. We have been sneakily trying to find a new location in Mexico for a Motocamp. The last few days were fun, to say the least. We went to a jungle lodge, where a very kind woman offered us a share in her business, and an opportunity to establish a new Motocamp. It was a perfect location, with four beautiful Cabanas set in a jungle paradise. The problem was that, after the romantic image of a jungle camp, the reality sets in. There were mosquitos queuing up, with tickets, to eat Cathy and me. By the following morning, we both resembled two pieces of raw steak. The mozzies had halved our body weight with blood sucking. I needed a transfusion. There were colonies of ants, with biceps and boots, waiting to carry us off, once the mozzies had sucked us into shredded human skin.

MotocampIf you survive the insects, there are animals ready to pounce on the scraps, jaguars etc. But this is all academic, because it is impossible to get to this camp for seven months of the year. The rains wash away any hope of a jungle retreat. This is where I met my match, crashed, and broke my wrist. Luckily Cathy was not 'onboard' as I was running an errand for the lodge owner, a mere five kilometres to get tortillas. I was on a steep muddy slope with huge gulleys when the heavens opened, and the road became a river. On a steep downhill section, the back wheel slipped sideways, and I was off. I landed on my hand and knew my wrist was broken. I made it back to the camp and eventually arranged for a 'camionetta' (pick up truck) to take us and the bike the 150 kms back to Puerto. The indigenous Indian driver wanted 2000 pesos (£100) for the trip. Being the Rambo I am, I decided to ride all the way back. 2000 was too much. Respect to Cathy for getting on a bike with a one-armed rider. We made it back. I went to Hospital Angel del Mar (HAM, for short!), where they confirmed I had a broken heart, I mean wrist. Another day on the range! Lodge out then. Not good. Hospital confirmed 'nondisplaced scaphoid fracture'. Splint on base. Cast on top. 6 weeks minimum, no riding. A disaster!

Have to say life not going too well at the moment. Anyway jellybean soup to all. Love Spencer and Cathy

MORE FROM MEXICO

Wednesday 30/08/2023: To open this log, I post a short account of some experiences at border posts I have had on my travels as recently there has been media reports of disputes occurring with officials at control centres in Europe during the late holiday season.

Lestho Border PostMany Adventure travellers find border posts and their inevitable delays one of the worst parts of the process of travelling. I love them. I do understand that most people are on an agenda and a day's delay for paperwork can eat into a ten-day trip. I am privileged that I don't need to worry about delays, as I am always travelling. That said and accepted, I think it is all to do with the mind frame. People tend to get themselves worked up into a mini frenzy of negativity. I have seen it at ports, I have seen it at airports, docks, and land borders. People are on the defensive and behave extremely confrontationally, often before a problem has arisen. They would never behave like that at home. Customs Officers are only doing their job and it really is a thankless task. All they get is abuse. I look at it more from an anthropological point of view. It's an opportunity to 'people watch', under stressful circumstances, and quite frankly, I have met some extremely colourful travellers and officials, having passed through 135 borders. I had an Egyptian border guard who pretended to be two completely different people, simply by donning a hat and pair of glasses. Having seen him at the first desk he left and then came round the building and through another door. Hey presto, a brand-new official. He even kept up the pretence of having never met me; five minutes earlier, even though I was in a fit of giggles. He knew he had been rumbled, got annoyed and flushed, but could not falter. Brilliant. In the Democratic Republic of Congo, I macheted my way through the centre of a 'jungle' area. When I came to a clearing, finally, the customs officer had not seen a tourist in three years. I was well proud. His official stamp had even dried up so he wrote, 'Spencer James Conway entered legally', with his signature underneath. It worked. I will never get rid of that passport.

Mexico MarathonSaturday 02/09/2023: Now onto an item nearer to my adopted country, Mexico. As you know my father is a marathon runner so just a short report on the recent run in Mexico City. It is not the best venue for a marathon, or any endurance sport as it is situated at a high altitude and is polluted with car fumes. Mexico's capital is the oldest capital city in the Americas and one of two founded by Indigenous people. The city was originally built on a group of islands in Lake Texcoco by the Mexica (Aztecs) around 1325, under the name Tenochtitlan. It was almost completely destroyed in the 1521 siege of Tenochtitlan by the Spanish and subsequently redesigned and rebuilt in the Spanish traditional style. In 1524, the municipality of Mexico City was established, known as México Tenochtitlán, and in 1585, it was named Ciudad de México and became the political, administrative, and financial centre of the Spanish colonial empire. In 1986 the Olympic games were held in the city which caused some breathing problems for athletes competing in distance events. This year a Bolivian won the Mexico City marathon breaking the record. More than 30,000 runners competed in the 40th edition of the race won by Héctor Garibay Flores, aged 35, in 2 hours, 8 minutes and 23 seconds, over the 42 kilometres course. In the women's competition, Kenyan runners took the top three places, with Celestine Chepchir (2:27:17) taking first place. Hector lives in the Bolivian highlands and works as a taxi driver to raise money. The first-place prize was 550,000 pesos (US $32,814) and a Garmin watch, plus another 550,000 pesos for breaking the record. The prize money is "very important" because it will help him prepare for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. Working as a taxi driver has "robbed me of valuable training time," he said. Legendary Ethiopian long-distance runner Haile Gebrselassie, 50, a two-time gold medallist in the Olympics and a four-time world champion, attended the awards ceremony. Congrats to Hector and hope to hear about you in the 2024 games.

Cockatoo Drum Stick Tuesday 05/09/2023: Now to news of natural things, the mating ritual of the wild male palm cockatoos who vie to be the best rock drummers. The proboscidea aterrimus craft drumsticks for musical mating rituals according to their individual tastes. Some males are drumstick devotees, others use a mix of drumsticks and seed pod instruments, and unorthodox males march to the beat of their own pod, or foot beats. These individual touches have more to do with personal preference than with available materials. Females might prize creativity or individuality. A male palm cockatoo puts on a musical mating display from trees in his territory. He sings, twirls and drums rhythmically against the tree, often using a percussion instrument, a stick or seed pod, clutched in his left foot. As part of the display, he crafts the instrument himself and the female watches as he snaps off tree branches and whittles them to his desired size and shape. The birds' dramatic black and red plumage and tall, spiked crests makes for a display close in nature to a rock concert. The males all have their own drumming signatures. Some like to 'rock' slowly, some go very quickly, and then others add flourishes. Drumstick length varies from bird to bird. Some prefer short and stubby drumsticks, while others make longer, thinner ones. Looks like size matters.

Andean Mouse Saturday 09/09/2023: To continue the nature theme. The world's highest-dwelling mammal, a yellow-rumped leaf-eared mouse isn't the only rodent existing at extreme elevation, but it is the most 'elevated'. Multiple species of rodents live at or near the high-altitude peaks of Andean volcanoes, well above where alpine herbs, dwarf shrubs and other plants can grow, The mouse lives on the summit of the Andean Volcán Llullaillaco at an altitude of 6,739 meters, more than three quarters the height of Mount Everest. That mammals can live at these heights is astonishing, considering there's only about 44 percent of oxygen available compared to sea level. It is very difficult to sustain any kind of physical activity, or mental activity in such regions. Humans need oxygen to live at such heights without which they would not function for long. The little mouse has adapted to the rarified atmosphere living at ease in its surroundings.

Thursday 14/09/2023: For all those who love colourful craft work, particularly woven tapestries, you may know that Mexico has a long tradition of weaving. I see examples every day in the region where I live. Mexico is vibrant and this is echoed in its craft. Zapotec weaving is an ancient art form that has been passed down from generation to generation for more than 2,000 years. The Zapotec civilization arose in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca in the 6th century BCE, building great cities like Monte Albán and Mitla. Roughly 400,000 Zapotecs, who call themselves Ben'Zaa, the Cloud People, live in Mexico today. As their ancestors did, modern Zapotecs use weaving to preserve their traditions, history, stories, and spiritual beliefs. One of the oldest weaving tools used by Indigenous people is the backstrap loom, which is used by attaching one end to a tree or post and wrapping the other end around the waist. The weaver sways their body back and forth to change the tension in the threads. Without wool-yielding domestic animals, Mesoamerican weavers made textiles with plant fibres and cotton and traditionally only men were allowed to weave in the Zapotec culture. During the height of the Zapotec civilization, the people of Teotitlán del Valle in Oaxaca were already known for their weaving. Their woven items were considered so valuable that it is said the Mexica Emperor Moctezuma II extracted an annual tribute of 2,000 blankets and 40 pounds of dried cochineal insects, used to make carmine dye, annually from each of the seven cities he ruled. In the 16th century, the Spanish conquistadores brought sheep and the pedal loom to Mexico and Zapotecs began using sheep's wool in their rugs.

Traditional RugsMale weavers transitioned to the pedal loom, which requires more strength, while women filled other roles in the process: preparing wool, spinning wool into yarn, and dyeing yarn. Eventually, Zapotec women began using the backstrap loom for weaving while men wove more oversized rugs on pedal looms. In the last 60 years, women have become around 80% of backstrap weavers while roughly 75% of weavers using the pedal loom are men. The dyes are organic, made from materials including tree moss, pomegranate skins, marigold, madrone bark, West Indian indigo and cochineal, a tiny insect that looks like white fuzz when found on nopal cacti leaves. The female cochineal excretes an acid that produces a deep crimson colour, which has made it in demand as a dye. Some weavers mix their own dye colour combinations and have specific colours that identify their rugs. No one else can reproduce that colour because weavers don't share their techniques or their secret dye recipe for the colours they create. Traditional Zapotec rugs share common themes and symbols. Geometric pyramids represent the ancient political and economic centre of Monte Albán. The zig-zag pattern represents lightning, which is connected to Cocijo, the Zapotec God of lightning and rain. The Eye of God, very prevalent in many rugs, symbolizes the power of seeing and understanding the unseen. The Eye of God is placed inside a diamond. The top half represents the sky or heaven, the bottom half is hell. If you cover the bottom half of the diamond, you can see a pyramid and the bottom half is a horizontal reflection of the pyramid symbolizing a mirror that reflects our inner life. The Eye of God is sometimes placed inside a rectangle representing the entrance to the spirit world and a sacred place of spirituality. Now you know a little more of Mexican traditions.

Saturday 16/09/2023: Lastly, just to say, I am now a fully registered member of Mexican community according to the laws of the country and able to work legally. Next time I will inform you as to how I will become a 'millionaire'. Pea soup and crab's feet to all. Best Spencer.

Mastering The Art Of Motorcycle CampingHi Everyone. Here is a one hour interview of top camping tips with the mercurial Jim Martin ,if that is your thing. Hope you enjoy. Peace, love and respect from me and Cathy Nel...

< adventureriderradio.com / Mastering Motorcycle Camping - Over 40 Years Of Wisdom From Seasoned Riders >


BACK IN MEXICO

Wednesday 16/08/2023: Just to recap a little. In my previous Log I gave an account of a somewhat dangerous landing in Escondido during a 'storm' on my return to Mexico. Now I can add that apparently we flew through what has now been named 'Hurricane Hilary'. Phew! No wonder the pilot was praying as we descended to the runway which was manned by fire and rescue vehicles. At 9 a.m. the morning of my arrival Mexico City time, the NHC reported that Hurricane Hilary had become a powerful Category 4 hurricane, with sustained winds of up to 145 miles per hour. It was located about 360 miles south-southwest of Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, and moving northwest at 10 miles per hour.

Hurricane DamageThe Mexican government issued a Hurricane Warning for the region of the peninsula between Punta Abre Ojos and Punta Eugenia, and a Hurricane Watch for the area north of Punta Eugenia to Ensenada. A Hurricane Warning implies that hurricane conditions are expected within the next 36 hours and "preparations to protect life and property should be rushed to completion." Hurricanes regularly caused considerable damage in the region. Although on the fringes we were lucky to make it to terra firma in one piece.

Friday 18/08/2023: Not been long back in Mexico and rapidly becoming more Mexican. At present trying to register to work legally in the country. Much red-tape but need to be recognized as a resident and pay tax to remain here for the next year. So thought at this juncture to delve some more into Mexican history prompted by the creation of a huge mosaic, 20 by 30 feet of a worthy personage. Born in Spain in 1701, Antonio Alcalde arrived in Mexico in 1763 after being appointed Bishop of Yucatán. He became Bishop of Guadalajara in 1771, serving in this position until his death in 1792. Alcalde is fondly remembered in Guadalajara for the many public works he sponsored as the city's bishop, including churches, a hospital and the forerunner institution to today's University of Guadalajara.

Murial Of Fray AntonioThe mosaic dominates an important intersection of the city. On the friar's right religious and civil works are featured while on his left he is seen rescuing a victim of life's hardships from the jaws of a four-headed dragon, whose heads represent plague, death, hunger and war. Just above the friar, serving as his halo, the aurora borealis illuminates the sky. The love, admiration and gratitude Guadalajara toward Fray Antonio can be understood when one considers the epidemics that plagued the city in the 1700s. One year it was typhus, then a few years later smallpox, then typhus came back, once again followed by smallpox. The plagues of 1784-1786 were made a thousand times worse because a violent hailstorm wiped out all the crops. In fact, the year 1786 is on record as 'the Year of Hunger.' … It was a concert of calamities and the bishop did much to alleviate suffering. In the 18th century, the city had only one hospital with about 30 beds, so Alcalde built the Hospital Civil with 800 beds which were later expanded to 1,000. He also founded the Belén Cemetery and the Cuadritas public housing project. Good works me thinks.

OtziTuesday 22/08/2023: Just been reading Bill Bryson's book on the home and came across a passage on an ancient ancestor. No not my father, somewhat older! A Neolithic being known as Otzi. About 90 percent of Ötzi's genetic heritage comes from Neolithic farmers, an unusually high amount compared with other Copper Age remains. The Iceman's genome reveals he had male-pattern baldness and much darker skin than thought. Genes conferring light skin tones didn't become prevalent until 4,000 to 3,000 years ago when early farmers started eating plant-based diets and didn't get as much vitamin D from fish and meat as hunter-gatherers did. It is now known that people who lived in Europe between 40,000 and 8,000 years ago were as dark as people in Africa. It was believed that Europeans became light-skinned much earlier in development, but it seems that this happened quite late in human history. Skin colour depends on not only where one comes from but on our lifestyle and diet.

Otter WhaleThursday 24/08/2023: Whilst on ancient inhabitants of the land next to a creature that was at home on land and in the water. An ancient four-legged whale walked across our earth on hooved toes and swam in the sea like an otter. Big, possibly webbed feet and long toes allowed P. pacificus to dogpaddle or swim freestyle. And like modern otters and beavers, this whale's vertebrae suggest that its tail also functioned as a paddle. With tiny hooves and strong legs and hips, the animal could walk on land. But it was a better swimmer. Whales evolved on land and gradually adapted to a water-dwelling lifestyle. The first amphibious whales emerged more than 50 million years ago near what's now India and Pakistan. The species shared some similar features with Maiacetus and Rodhocetus, two early whales from that area. P. pacificus' age supports the idea that whales migrated across the South Atlantic and around South America to the Pacific Ocean in their first 10 million years of existence. Think I have seen some that look similar but have more human-like features. No comments please.

Amazon Rain Forest Saturday 26/08/2023: I have previously covered the damage that climate change causes on our planet and to add more there is a warning that it will affect the life of trees if heat increase is not halted. Photosynthetic breakdown could harm entire forests as a rise of about 4 degrees C above current temperatures in tropical forests could potentially cause wide swathes of leaves to die. When leaves get too hot, their photosynthetic machinery, proteins that convert light energy into sugars, breaks down. Most forests could endure about 4 degrees C of warming above current levels before trees lose all their leaves, and die. However, that amount of warming might be possible by 2100 in a worst-case scenario in which greenhouse gas emissions continue rising through the century. Another reason to act now and not just have international conferences about climate change.

Cats Guarding The TenereSunday 27/08/2023: Having experienced landing in a hurricane and attempting to calm some hysterical fliers in my plane whilst being totally at ease myself!! now back in Escondido we have been inundated, right word, with torrential rain causing our road to become a river. My neighbour opposite has lost his house and others have suffered considerable damage. My cats remained unmoved and kept up a vigil on my bike anchored outside whilst the flooding built up. Nonchalant observers.

Monday 29/08/2023: Many of you may know that I ejected a rude foreigner from Aduana (Customs) who was then taken away by the police. Immediately after that we were offered residency. I do not recommend this method of obtaining it but it worked for us. Getting to the position of acquiring a work permit takes years, so be prepared.

Mexican OfficialsFirstly, you have to pass the welcoming committee as in the photo and then follow a set procedure, but nobody knows in what order. Temporary residency is for four years and costs £2000. After that it is up to the discretion of Immigration whether they extend it to permanent. You then need a social security number, a tax number, a Mexican bank account and various other papers with three letters- a SAT number, a PLP number, a proof of residency and proof of Bill payments, shoe size, cake preference and allergies to Mexican chili sauce need to be declarado. They take your fingerprints, scan your retina and take mugshots galope, 'tousands of them! Everyone is super friendly, and it only takes 18 hours in each of the 200 offices, with queues of 1000, and I never exaggerate. After 14 years your application is rejected because you do not know what Austrolopithicus Afrocensius is in Spanish. But we will never give up. Onwards. Freedom!!!

That's all from super calm and controlled Spencer. Mushrooms and bananas on toast till next time.

WHAT NEXT?

Spencer Conway On The Road Tuesday 18/07/2023: Difficult to plan for future travels at the moment as I am still waiting for results of blood and other tests to try to resolve health problems. Curses. Hate being off my bike and not being sure of what is next on my agenda. Must grin and bear it as they say. Whoever 'they' are? Must stay in the UK for the time being.

Thursday 20/07/2023: News of a rescue by Mexican fishermen near my home on the Mexico coast. They picked up a sailor and his dog after the pair had spent three months at sea.

Sea SurvivorThe survivor, a 51-year-old Australian, Tim Shaddock, was found in the Pacific Ocean in a damaged boat along with his dog, Bella, after a helicopter accompanying a Mexican tuna boat spotted him on an islet off the coast of Manzanillo, Colima. The pair survived by eating raw fish, drinking rainwater and by staying under a small canopy to avoid dehydration. Tim Shaddock left the coastal city of La Paz, Baja California, with his dog in April. They were bound for French Polynesia when a strong storm hit, damaging the electronic equipment in his boat, "Aloha Toa", and preventing them from requesting rescue or continuing their 6,000-kilometer journey. One lucky guy. If it had been me I would still be floating around in the ocean.

n"KodiacSaturday 22/07/2023: You must know the story of 'Goldilocks and the Three Bears' but stories of a familial bears exist in almost every human culture that shares territory with the animal according to journalist Gloria Dickie in her new book, 'Eight Bears'. The Yakut people of eastern Siberia call brown bears "grandfather" and "uncle." Shepherds in the French Pyrenees call the brown bear la va-nu-pieds, the "barefooted one," a reference to its humanlike footprints. In Peru, the Ukuku is an Andes-traipsing man-bear hybrid in Quechua lore that steals away young women. There are only eight bear species: brown, black, sun, moon, polar, spectacled, sloth and giant panda. Dickie explores each in vivid detail, traveling across three continents to some of the places where they amble. Many species inhabit woefully shrinking natural spaces. In the Andes, spectacled bears risk ascending upslopes into oblivion due to a warming climate. Polar bears are caught between rapidly dwindling sea ice, and from brown bears that have started wandering poleward. Sloth bears are squeezed into smaller and smaller pockets of forest as human populations expand, leading to violent, tragic conflicts with people. Paddington's ancestors are also in danger of dying out so another film is needed quickly to preserve the species of talking bears.

Weaver Bird Nest Sunday 23/07/2023: In Africa out in the bush or on the plains I often saw huge bird's nests. Many made by very small, winged flyers. Weaver Birds. Ant nests, beaver lodges and many other marvels of animal architecture enclose shared space. But small, sparrow like Philetairus socius 'glue' together beakfuls of grass to create a haystack of bird apartments. The nests can grow to weigh a ton and last about a century. Tunnels opening from the underside lead to each family's unit The condos have great insulation, an important perk for birds that don't migrate from the hot-then-cold Kalahari. In summer there is shady relief and in winter, condos are heated by snuggle power. The thatch keeps a chamber with a lone bird at about 12° Celsius. An apartment crowded with five birds reaches 33° C. Raising chicks is chancy when a nest offers a feast for marauders. Snakes climb the trees to get into the colony and then they inspect every single chamber. Adult weavers will mob loudly and frantically, but a cape cobra or boomslang ignores them, bingeing on eggs and chicks by the dozen. End of housing and colony!

The Sun Monday 24/07/2023: Recently, the planet sweltered as the average global temperature reached 17.01° Celsius (62.62° Fahrenheit), the highest ever recorded. That surpassed the previous record of 16.92° C (62.46° F) from August 2016. But in July temperatures peaked at 17.23° C (63.01° F). Earth just experienced its hottest month ever recorded. The extraordinary nature of this year's June and July readings stems from what's going on in the oceans around the world that have grown alarmingly warm. Our planet's seas have been warming for decades. The most recent decade has been the sea surface's hottest since at least the 1800s reaching 21.1° C, the highest ever recorded. In the Gulf of Mexico, the average surface temperature is more than 30° C. Hotter seas are a huge problem. The ocean is currently taking in about 93 percent of the heat associated with global warming, but as the oceans warm, they become less capable of absorbing heat from the atmosphere raising the global temperature. Nice for me on my daily swim back in Mexico but not so good for influences on climate change.

Mexico Coat Of Arms Wednesday 26/07/2023: For centuries, the nopal cactus of the opuntia genus, also known as prickly pear, has symbolized resilience and adaptability, much like the Mexican people. In exploring the wisdom behind Mexican cuisine's seemingly modest ingredients, the nopal is not to be overlooked. Indigenous civilizations revered the cactus, recognizing its nutritional value and healing properties. It was also considered a sacred plant, appearing in the legend of the founding of Tenochtitlan by the Mexica, or Aztecs. The legend says that an eagle devouring a snake, while perched on a nopal, was the sign that the Mexica were seeking to know where to build their city, and the image became the national coat of arms. It has a low caloric value of 27 calories per 100 grams, and minimal digestible carbohydrates, making it a low-glycaemic food. Opal pads are also rich in soluble fibres, like pectins, gums, and mucilage. Consuming nopal promotes a sensation of satiety, which aids weight management and curbs excessive food intake. The nopal's fibre content can also contribute to regulating blood glucose levels. Pretty good for you and liked by me. You can buy it in all the supermarkets and markets as a whole leaf that has been scraped of its dodgy exterior which can sting the lips. It is chopped up into fine little cubes and is quite subtle and juicy in flavour. I cannot tell you what other vegetable it tastes like, because it doesn't taste like any other vegetable, so you will all have to come to Mexico to try it. Delicious in a beef taco or in a breakfast burrito. Also, it grows in abundance so will not run out.

Printing Press Sunday 30/07/2023: In today's world fraudsters are ingenious at hacking but it may surprise you that Benjamin Franklin developed methods of stalling money counterfeiters. Blue threads and muscovite, a reflective mineral, were incorporated into banknotes. By using techniques such as infrared, electron energy loss spectroscopy, and X-ray analysis, researchers have found features such as coloured threads and muscovite, a crystalized mineral, incorporated into the paper. The blue threads are visible to the naked eye, and the muscovite produces a glimmer that reflects light, features most wouldn't have been able to reproduce. The muscovite, found in about 95 percent of the analysed Franklin bills produced after 1754, was probably sourced from the same geologic area. The mineral was also used to increase the durability of the notes so they could hold up better during circulation. Efforts to thwart counterfeiters of early American money were eventually upended by the British, who figured out some of the techniques when they flooded the colony with fake bills as a destabilizing tactic during the American Revolution. The value of American money collapsed, and in the years following the revolution, the United States favoured coins, only issuing treasury notes during later wars. Even so, some of Franklin's techniques would go on to form the basis of increasingly sophisticated methods used to combat forgers. For that time, Franklin's paper money was ground-breaking. Today there are more advanced methods to prevent clever counterfeiters, but Franklin was the pioneer. My attempts at faking Mexican notes have not been too successful. My methods, as pictured, a little antiquated!!

Tuesday 01/08/2023: Another month and still in the UK but will be leaving to return to Mexico in a couple of weeks. Medical reports have now come through and mostly good news except for pleurisy, scars on my lungs and dark spots as well as a lung infection. Apparently, I am getting 75% of the normal oxygen uptake. This is due to having malaria five times, dengue fever and coronavirus. Just have to live with it. I also have abnormally large red blood cells (to go with my brain) and a low white blood cell count. They are not a hundred percent sure why, but I was diagnosed with Vitamin B12 deficiency and low iron, so easy to remedy.

Hever Castle The weather has been superb in England so Dad, Simon and I have been gardening, shed building and castle visiting. Hever Castle, Anne Boleyn's childhood home, one such. Many like this in England. Simon is back in Swaziland now, to continue his superb acoustic and electric guitar making. Fried eggs and banana sandwiches to all. Spencer!

Mayan Goddess Of Fertility STILL IN THE UK

Monday 10/07/2023: Having been in Mexico for many moons now have learnt of a deity who is connected to the lunar orb. One of Mayan mythology's most important deities is the goddess Ixchel, or Ix Chel, pronounced Ishchel. Ixchel's powers include everything governed by the cycles of the moon - water, fertility, harvests, pregnancy, as well as love and sexuality. She is also the patroness of the arts, textiles, painting, medicine, and healing. The Mayans believe in the duality of the universe. Reflecting this duality, Ixchel is benevolent but can also be powerful and harmful. With her power, she can give life; but she can also take it away. She provides both rain for the harvests and medicines for healing, but she is also destructive, sending floods, diseases and curses that can affect the harvests and endanger people's lives. The story of Ixchel originated in the Yucatán Peninsula and Guatemala in 1500 B.C. Part of her power comes from controlling the cycles of the moon which govern sowing and harvesting. She is often pictured alongside Chaac, the god of rain, because of their shared association with rain and crops. But she is depicted in many different incarnations. In some paintings, Ixchel is depicted as a beautiful young maiden accompanied by a rabbit, who has his own place in Mayan mythology and also represents the moon. In other images, she is a woman weaving on a waist loom that represents the thread of life - it symbolizes the umbilical cord and the placenta. At times, she is also portrayed as a fierce older woman emptying a jug of water onto the earth, resulting in storms and devastation that destroys crops and ends lives. I prefer the younger of the two.

Aeromexico PlaneTuesday 11/07/2023: Having travelled extensively in mosquito areas I have caught malaria several times. Not nice! The disease is caused by Plasmodium parasites and spread to humans by the female Anopheles mosquitoes. It was once prevalent, before widespread spraying of the insecticide DDT, helped to purge the US of any parasite-infected mosquitoes, and some people too. By 1951, malaria had been eliminated within U.S. borders. But the disease still circulates in many countries around the world. Globally, there are more than 245 million cases of malaria each year and over 625 000 deaths, most of which happen in Africa, according to the World Health Organization. In October 2021, the WHO approved a malaria vaccine for children living in sub-Saharan Africa. When I was living in Kenya spraying insecticide around homes and areas where mosquitoes breed helped to keep the insects' numbers down. The insecticide was called Doom, and was not too good for human lungs either, but I have fond memories of the smell. We also had window screens to keep the insects out of our house. My mother used to spray mosquito repellents on clothing treated with insecticide to prevent bites. My father cleared standing water to stop mosquitoes from multiplying. I also slept under a cloth net, but I still heard them whining around my bedroom. Nasty varmints. The worst type of malaria is carried by P. falciparum, the most common and deadliest of five species. Here in the UK malaria is not that common but I still have recurrent bouts of the disease. Mosquitoes also spread dengue which causes a high fever and can be deadly. I have had dengue fever and was very ill for several weeks. Be warned.

Dengue Carrying Mosquito The 12 deadliest insects worldwide, in order...

1. Mosquitos
2. Kissing Bug
3. Tsetse Fly
4. Bees
5. Indian Red Scorpion
6. Deathstalker Scorpion
7. Black Widow Spider
8. Brazilian Wandering Spider
9. Brown Recluse Spider
10. Ants... (more on these critters in next log)

Oaxaca CityThursday13/07/2023: When in Mexico I live not far from Oaxaca city, which according to Traveller Magazine, is high on travellers' destination wish lists, made Oaxaca city - a UNESCO World Heritage site - a natural choice for readers to vote as the world's best city. "Widely considered one of Mexico's cultural capitals, Oaxaca is a maze of historical monuments, lively street markets, stunning churches, contemporary art galleries, colourful street art, and charming plazas," the magazine said. I can also report that the city is also a 'foodies' mecca and home to award-winning restaurants. There are, in addition, world renowned hotels but I add that they are way beyond my means. A tent on a camp site is more my level.

Rat Friday 14/07/2023: Rats!! Why am I introducing rats in this log? Simples! I have seen them in many places on my travels and recently one popped up not far from where I am now so decided to provide some information on these not very pleasant creatures. Many rodents use whiskers to feel their way around their world. But rats appear to take this one step further, using special, antennae-like whiskers above their eyes to sense subtle air movement. These long, thin hairs may help the rats detect the movements of predators or prey in dark, cramped environments. Many studies of rodents have focused on the snout whiskers, there are a plethora of whiskers beyond the snout, on other parts of the face and the body. Seals also have supraorbital whiskers that sense underwater flow patterns. Rats may use their wind-sensing whiskers to pick up the movements of predators or prey in the dark. It could be that an incoming animal is sensed through a subtle change in airflow. The rat would detect this and escape in time. My rat encounters suggest this to be correct as most seem to sense my presence and scurry away. Some don't and those are worrisome for many reasons. And some people keep rats as pets!

Calaveras Carnival Saturday 15/07/2023: I am 6ft 4 inches and in Mexico have often been asked how I got so tall. Mexicans are not known for their tall stature. The average height for males in Mexico is between 5 feet 4 inches and 5 feet7 inches, depending on where you are; very generally speaking, those with more prominent European ancestry tend to be taller. For women, the average height is 5 feet 2 inches. My height has advantages as I can see over the top of crowds where they assemble, at festival parades for example. Cathy likewise as she is 5ft 10 inches.

Sunday 16/07/2023: The largest number of listeners on a radio interview I have ever undertaken was on the BBC World Service at 43 million. I was interviewed by a Kenyan presenter who, when I remarked that I had hit a goat at 80 kilometres an hour, asked, "Did you eat it?"… Fair question, but no I did not. I got out of there quick sharp as I knew it would inevitably be the villages most prized goat, and compensation would be requested.

Macavity The CatAfter that interview, all others seem small, and I am less nervous now. I recently did an interview on my Africa expedition with the excellent Simon McNeill Ritchie of Radio Bath with 600,000 listeners. Next week I will be discussing my South and Central America expedition. I am also appearing on BBC Radio Solent West Dorset to discuss my life in general, and future plans. I will put up the links for all of those on the next log.

My father has a semi feral cat called Macavity, who has been loitering in the garden for years. I enticed her in with the luxury that is honey roast ham. She allowed me to stroke her for the first time, so I suspect Dad will have a house cat very soon. That's all this time. Gingerbread and sardines. Spencer.

LIFE IN THE UK

Tuesday 27/06/2023: Since arrival the weather has proved to be nearly as hot as that in Mexico. Amazing and all looks good in the sunshine. Great to see green fields and English gardens. Pleasant atmosphere in the summer and much to see, including a variety of sport. Cricket Test Matches, Athletics, Tour de France, and Wimbledon. Some exciting moments.

Death Cap Funghi Thursday 29/06/2023: Have seen some large mushrooms in the fields beyond my father's house, maybe some of the deadly kind. Silent assassin and killer of kings. The deathcap species has been used as a murder weapon for millennia. It grows in mixed woodland; Death cap mushrooms get their name for a reason: The poisonous fungi can kill if ingested in even small amounts. But researchers may have found an antidote for one of the mushroom's most deadly toxins. A dye already used in medical procedures can block damage from the mushroom's alpha-amanitin toxins. Research was done with human cells grown in lab dishes and with mice, the antidote has potential to save lives. Death cap mushrooms (Amanita phalloides) are responsible for most deaths from mushroom poisonings worldwide.

Symptoms may appear as soon as six hours after ingestion and include nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea. If a person isn't treated immediately, the toxins can cause liver and kidney damage that can lead to death within 48 hours after ingestion. There is no antidote currently available, but people can be treated with fluids, activated charcoal and other therapies. Deathcaps can produce circles of fruiting bodies, known as fairy rings, which over centuries have been the subject of fairy tales and folklore. With only a small amount of the cap being necessary to kill someone, and symptoms not always appearing straight away, they have been used as an invisible murder weapon for assassination. The Romans and ancient Greeks recognised it as a deadly poison. It is said that Agrippina murdered her husband, Roman Emperor Claudius, by mixing deathcap juice with Caesar's mushrooms (Amanita caesarea). He died of poisoning a few days after a meal. Voltaire claimed that Charles VI died by deathcap poisoning. Remember to look out for fairies dancing in the meadows at night. That's when they come out to play. Sure sign of deathcap circles.

SpitfireSaturday 01/07/2023: Just been to see the Battle of Britain air show at a local airfield in Headcorn, couple of miles up the road. Many light planes to be seen. Mono and bi-winged, single and double seaters. Pride of place were Spitfires, Hurricanes and Messerschmitts and a mock dog-fight above spectators. Most exciting was a display by jets wheeling and diving in formation and the Red Arrows to complete the show. Good day out.

n"StarTuesday 04/07/2023: The Fourth of July - also known as Independence Day or July 4th - has been a federal holiday in the United States since 1941, but the tradition of Independence Day celebrations goes back to the 18th century and the American Revolution. On July 2nd, 1776, the Continental Congress voted in favour of independence, and two days later delegates from the 13 colonies adopted the Declaration of Independence, a historic document drafted by Thomas Jefferson. From 1776 to the present day, July 4th has been celebrated as the birth of American independence, with festivities ranging from fireworks, parades, and concerts to more casual family gatherings and barbecues. Remember Americans you were once part of the British Empire. You owe it all to us!!

Wednesday 05/07/2023: Back to Mexico for a dip into tomato soup. Coming out rather bloody! Seriously let's talk about tomatoes not Cedric or Colin or Kevin. The ancestral form of the tomato originated in the Andes mountains. The exact date of domestication is unknown; by 500 BC, it was already being cultivated in southern Mexico and probably other areas. The Puebla people are thought to have believed that those who witnessed the ingestion of tomato seeds were blessed with powers of divination. The large, lumpy variety of tomato, a mutation from a smoother, smaller fruit, originated in Mesoamerica, and may be the direct ancestor of some modern cultivated tomatoes. Scientists think the species spread north - possibly as a weed - and wasn't widely domesticated until it reached Mexico. From here, it was taken back to Europe after the arrival of the Spanish.

Vine TomatoesThe tomato has become a staple in many international dishes, you're probably thinking pizza and pasta, and is also the basis of many Mexican recipes. It is now so widespread that it is hard to think of a household kitchen without it. Today, there are some 10,000 different species of tomato cultivated across the world, ranging in size and colour. While Mexico has always been one of the 10 top producers of tomatoes, 4 million tonnes per year, China leads worldwide production with 56.4 million tons. The United States comes in third with 13 million tons a year. But English tomatoes are the best and are exported to many areas of the globe. To Scotland anyway

Hot Chocolate Thursday 06/07/2023: Many of you may not be so into tomatoes but chocolate is probably more to your liking. The Maya, for instance, praised it as the drink of the gods - it was regarded not only as a culinary pleasure but also as a ceremonial beverage. Babies were anointed with chocolate, and people used it as a celebratory drink to mark weddings, coronations, and the forging of diplomatic alliances. The Mexica used chocolate as an invigorating beverage for warriors. The Spanish conquistador Bernal Díaz del Castillo wrote that Emperor Moctezuma's personal guards drank 2,000 cups of chocolate every day "with foam." Today soldiers use more potent drugs to go into war zones. Moctezuma himself drank some 50 cups of chocolate daily, and Spanish Conquistador Hernán Cortés adopted the habit to sustain his soldiers during battle at times when they had no other food. While the beverage wasn't sweet, it was considered a delicious drink exclusively for society's elite. They drank it as a hot beverage in the winter months and as a cold drink in the summer. It had a bitter flavour and was spiced with chili, flowers, and vanilla. Women would pour the chocolate from high above the cup to create a foamy effect. Chocolate was also preferred over the fermented spirit pulque as it didn't have any alcohol, the Mexica culture highly condemned drunkenness. After the Spanish arrived, they transformed the beverage into the sweet treat that we know today by adding sugar, almonds, and cinnamon and by removing all other spices except for the vanilla. Hot chocolate anybody?

Saturday 08/07/2023: Most of this Log has featured eatables but now to a creature that could eat you! Megalodon sharks!

Megalodon Shark O. Megalodon Sharks were a swift, fearsome apex predator and grew up to 20 meters long, making it among the largest carnivores to ever live on Earth. But the shark's voracious appetite may have also spelled the species' ultimate doom. Gigantism has a high metabolic cost, bigger bodies require more food, and the massive sharks may have been particularly vulnerable to extinction when the climate changed and food became scarcer. The shark was also known to have a very large geographic range around the globe, actively hunting in colder as well as warmer waters, which argues for some warm-bloodedness. A recent study modelled the shark's body in 3-D and estimated that adult O. megalodon was a transoceanic super predator, able to swim faster than any living shark species and could fully consume prey the size of today's largest predators. O. Megalodon appeared around 23 million years ago and became extinct between 3.5 million and 2.6 million years ago. Great white sharks emerged around 3.5 million years ago, and they competed for food with their massive cousins. One hypothesis has been that this competition helped drive O. Megalodon to extinction. Climate change during the Pliocene Epoch, which spanned 5.3 million to 2.6 million years ago, led to a collapse in the population of marine mammals, the primary food source for both sharks. I actually saw one whilst swimming off the coast of Escondido last month. Talk about Jaws.

Sunday 09/07/2023: Latest on the health front. Tests have revealed some problems with my lungs and an infection that cannot be identified through regular blood tests so have more punctures in my arms so blood can be sent to specialists in London. Also, must go for more x rays. No more to add. Tomatoes and hot chocolate to all. Spencer.

Octopus BACK TO THE UK

Tuesday 13/06/2023: Making plans to return to the UK but before leaving Mexico on a recent swim had a head to tentacles with an octopus. Only about three metres tip to tip of waving arms!! Seen them before but as you know the ocean can be a cold place to call home. Mammals like seals stay warm by enveloping themselves in a layer of thick fur and blubber. Octopuses and squid cope by altering their bodies on the molecular level. When water temperatures drop by 10 degrees Celsius, California two-spot octopuses, studied by scientists, change what proteins they produce by editing vast swathes of their own RNA, researchers have found. Scientists have known for over a decade that cephalopods are masters of RNA editing. DNA holds the instructions to make proteins, one of the key building blocks of the body. But it relies on messenger RNA - or mRNA to shuttle those instructions out of the cell nucleus and to the proteins responsible for building other proteins. Usually, mRNA faithfully copies these instructions. In humans about 3% of mRNA has the capacity to be edited, but Octopuses and squid take this editing to extremes changing thousands of mRNA. Thus, being able to adapt to major changes in sea temperature. Now you know another piece of useful information to share with friends.

Aeromexico Plane Wednesday 14/06/2023: Leaving today for the UK. No volcano eruption to stop flights so should be in England tomorrow morning. Escondido to Mexico City then to Heathrow in London. Weather looks good there, 25 degrees, so not that different to Mexico.

Thursday 15/06/2023: Arrived safely and reunion with father. Nice to be at 'home' for a few weeks and hopefully to sort out health problems which have prevented me from carrying on with a normal life. Enough said. Hospital appointments soon.

Darien Gap Migrants Saturday 17/06/2023: My brother Simon is arriving from Eswatini to stay for a month. First time in three years that we will be together. He has a construction company and builds houses and designs furniture. Also makes guitars which is a long and complicated process that takes patience and skill. One small mistake and the guitar is ruined. Each one is precision made for a specific sound. You need to be a master-craftsman.

Cleansing Ceremony Monday 19/06/2023: Can't omit Mexico news from the Log so have included some info on a colourful character in the country's history. In 1936, Pedro Linares López, a master cartonero in Mexico City's La Merced neighbourhood who made piñatas, masks, and other items out of papier-mache became seriously ill. At one point, he lost consciousness. While passed out, he dreamed of strange animals including winged burros and horned chickens, all of whom he remembered to be shouting "Alebrijes! Alebrijes!" When he awoke, he remembered his dream and decided to bring those creatures to life, naming them for the nonsense word they had shouted. In Oaxaca town Copal is the wood of choice of the craftsmen who make these creatures. Once the figure is carved that takes a couple of hours and involves as many as six different tools, it's put in the sun to dry. After that, it's bathed in gasoline to prevent moths from burrowing into the wood and then placed in a freezer to kill any weevils that may have entered it. Finally, the figure is ready to be painted, which takes another three to four hours. Some figures are very small, but others can be six foot tall. To walk down the street where the artisans are based is a magical experience as everywhere there is colour and vibrance and weird figures.

Cartoon by Angy Marquez Coming to England one notices how people queue in a quiet orderly fashion, but it is quite a different happening in Mexico. The etiquette of queuing is a form of no form at all. Travelling on a bus is an experience. As it pulls up at a terminus almost everyone is standing with their bags in the aisle by the time it stops. People that were sitting at the back push forward, in a way that requires you to jump off like a kamikaze pilot if you don't want to be smashed in the melee. It is much the same at food stands and stores, the vendors tending to whoever's closest or loudest, regardless of how they got there. You must physically push yourself to where you need to be, and you must 'speak up.' Shout! I have an advantage being six ft four as I can see over everybody, but this does not stop experienced women folk nudging me in the ribs or giving a push in the back to move as quickly as possible. Great people.

Duckbill Dinosaure Thursday22/06/2023: Although not in South America now I can't escape news from there. Fossils from the southern tip of Chile add to researchers' understanding of how duck-billed dinosaurs conquered the Cretaceous world. Duck-billed dinos known as hadrosaurids were highly successful and lived on most continents by the end of the Cretaceous, about 66 million years ago. Now, a study shows that an older duck-billed lineage appears to have thrived some 72 million years ago in subantarctic South America, potentially millions of years before hadrosaurids reached the continent. Bones recently found belong to a new type of duck-billed dinosaur, herbivorous giants that had flattened, waterfowl-like snouts. The remains included many body parts, with pieces of hip, limbs, ribs, vertebrae, and a skull. The researchers named the animal Gonkoken nanoi, "gon" and "koken" being the words for "similar to" and "wild duck or swan" in the language of the Indigenous Aónikenk people from the part of southern Patagonia where the bones were found. Gonkoken isn't like other known South American duck-billed dinosaurs, or like any from the old southern supercontinent of Gondwana, which included what came to be South America. Until now, all known duck-billed dinosaurs from Gondwana were hadrosaurids, which had their heyday in the late Cretaceous and had such efficient, stacked, plant-pulverizing teeth that they chewed their way to nearly global dominance, outcompeting other herbivorous dinosaur groups. When I return to Central America, I will look out for hybrid ducks and be wary of their teeth. Pic is by Mauricio Alvarez Abel.

Saturday 24/06/2023: Have visited Docs three times for blood test and x-rays and MRI scan. No results yet. Will post as soon as I have them. Bananas to everyone. Spencer.

PREVENTED FROM LEAVING MEXICO

Amanjac Statue Tuesday 23/05/2023: Recent finds in Mexico of two statues standing 1.54 meters high and weighing between 200- and 250-kilograms wear headdresses with very similar decorations that suggests that they are representations of the same figure, possibly a female Huasteca ruler. Although the original statue of the young woman, also called the "young ruler of Amajac," dates from the Late Postclassic period (1450-1521 AD), the other piece may be evidence of a sculptural tradition dating from the Early Postclassic (1100 to 1200 AD), before the Mexica conquest of the Huasteca region. In Huasteca tradition, important characters appear in various relief images or sculptures. The first figure, found in an orange grove, has become an icon in Veracruz and has even been proposed as a replacement for the statue of Christopher Columbus on Mexico City's Paseo de La Reforma Avenue. In fact the Columbus statue has been replaced by a monument erected by a feminist group. Times are changing everywhere.

Ant HillThursday 25/05/2023: Maybe something to surprise. Researchers have discovered some interesting behaviour of ants. Some have figured out how to keep from getting lost: Build taller anthills. No! Really!!Desert ants that live in the hot, flat salt pans of Tunisia spend their days looking for food. Successful grocery runs can take the insects as far as 1.1 kilometres from their nests. So, some of these ants build towering hills over their nests that serve as a landmark to guide the way home. Desert ants (Cataglyphis spp.) use a navigation system called path integration, relying on the sun's position, and counting their steps to keep track of where they are relative to their nest. Actually, never heard an ant counting myself. Even if it wanted to! But this system becomes increasingly unreliable as distance from the nest increases. Like other types of ants, desert ants also rely more generally on sight and smell. But the vast, almost featureless salt pans look nearly the same in every direction. So, researcher Knaden and colleagues captured ants (C. fortis) from nests in the middle of salt pans and from along their shorelines. Only nests from the salt pan interiors had distinct hills, which can be up to 40 centimetres tall, whereas the hills on shoreline nests were lower or barely noticeable. Desert ants (Cataglyphis fortis) that live in the interior of vast, flat salt pans in Tunisia build tall anthills that help the ants find their way home. Other ants of the same species that live closer to areas with more visual landmarks build more typical, inconspicuous nests with only a small hole for an entrance. In Africa I have seen ant hills of up to 4 metres high so now I know why these tiny creatures bother.

n"MassMonday 29/05/2023: Recently I recorded what is now happening in the Darien Gap, which I desperately wanted to traverse on my Yamaha but is now impossible because of the migrant train through the area, so here is a short extract from my book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' which mentions another 'failure' in chapter two El Tapon del Darien.

In 1698, Scotland tried to establish a settlement, through the 'Darien Gap scheme'. This was Scotland's one major attempt at colonisation. This is not the beginning of a joke, by the way. No, it didn't go well. I am not one for racial stereotypes, but lily-white, freckled, red-headed, kilted men, and non-kilted women, who experience a summer in Scotland, that usually comes on a Thursday in August, are not ideal colonists for a sun-baked,mosquito ridden jungle. (Actually, from my experience of four years in Edinburgh, at least the Scots would be used to the incessant rainfall, and the mosquitoes of the Darien would be child's play, after the Midges of Scotland. Midges with a capital, for a reason. I was nearly stripped to the bone, camping next to the lochs of Scotland. Midges whine at a thousand decibels, bite, and head-butt too). The aim was for the Scottish colony to have an overland route that connected the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. Claims have been made that the undertaking was beset by poor planning and provisioning, divided leadership, a poor choice of trade goods, escalating epidemics of disease, lack of Nivea sunscreen Factor 1000, lack of wild haggis, and attempts by the East India Company to frustrate it, as well as a failure to anticipate the Spanish Empire's military strength. Apart from that, it was a total failure. In March 1700 after a Spanish siege, everyone died. No wonder Scotland's colonial history is not extensive, with destination choices like the Darien jungle. No 'Hamish's' to be found in the 5790 square kilometre Darien National Park, the largest in Central America. Like the World Cup participation by Scotland can only at least say an attempt was made. Like attempts by migrants today to cross 'The Gap'.

Open WoundTuesday 30/05/2023: Now to another failure. Best laid plans of mice and men, in this case I have just suffered another bout of dengue fever and was supposed to be leaving Mexico today for the UK. Nope! Could not fly as not well enough to face the long trip with three changes and stop overs. Will have to recover and re-schedule. Watch this space...

Friday 02/06/2023: Slight recovery from dengue but not so on something nearer to home. As many of you are aware my father has run Ultra Marathons, the Comrades in South Africa, and the London to Brighton in the UK, both over 50-mile canters! He has competed for England and run in marathons in many parts of the world. He is still competing but last week had a slight accident halfway on a short five-mile race when the pebbled road he was running on came up to meet him!! Result skinned arm knee and hands. After the initial daze, got up and finished the run. Medics sent him off to A and E where he was treated. After several visits to hospital the shredded skin is healing but still bandaged and bruised. Has a distinctive change of skin colour.

Mural by Diego Rivera with Miranda of Unbalanced Political Leaders Thursday 08/06/2023: Just to amuse you if you like to hear about unbalanced political leader. Seem to be many about but they are not a new breed. Huckster, madman, con-man: the unusual life of a Mexican candidate one of the most colourful - and perhaps tragic - characters in the political history of Mexico was Don Nicolás Zúñiga y Miranda. Known as the "perpetual candidate," he ran for president nine times in 30 years (1894–1924), never garnering more than a few thousand votes. After each defeat, he would declare electoral fraud, sound familiar, and announce that he was the "legitimate president" of Mexico. Zuniga y Miranda was born in Zacatecas in 1865 and studied jurisprudence in Mexico City, although there is no evidence, he ever practiced law. He first rose to fame in 1887 when he claimed he had invented a machine - the seismeon - that could predict earthquakes. With chance in his favour, he successfully predicted an earthquake in 1887. Shortly afterward, he predicted a second earthquake would happen on August 10 of the same year, one that he said would cause the Popocatépetl volcano to erupt and would destroy Mexico City. People panicked, abandoned their homes, and left the city or gathered in squares and parks on the designated day. But when the earthquake didn't occur, an angry mob delivered Zúñiga y Miranda a public beating that sent him to the hospital. He disappeared from public view for a while, then suddenly reappeared in 1896, announcing he would run as "the people's candidate" against President Porfirio Díaz. He proposed teaching jiu-jitsu tactics to the Mexican army and suggested a meeting of municipal authorities to analyse the effect the stars had on international politics. During World War I, he announced he was organizing a séance - he called himself a spiritualist - to invoke the spirits of Aristotle, the King of Spain, the Kaiser of Germany, the King of England, and the Tsar of Russia as a way to achieve peace in Europe. Historians have studied him with great curiosity, books have been written about his life, newspapers have likened him to Don Quixote de la Mancha and his character makes an appearance in Juan Bastillo Oro's 1944 film "Mexico of my Memories." Zuñiga y Miranda was famous enough that Diego Rivera included him in his mural filled with figures from Mexican history. He is the figure in the foreground touching his top hat. Hi Donald T if you need some inspiration check the guy out.

Saturday 10/06/2023: Now in the process of finding a flight to the UK and hopefully will be able to fly soon. Jellied eels on toast for breakfast. Spencer.

UP TO NOW

Crystal Palace Dinosaurs Thursday 11/05/2023: Some of you have been asking me about my interest in Jurassic Creatures and all I can say is that as a little 'lightee' I was taken to Crystal Palace Park in South London on a trip to the UK when my father had leave from his work in Kenya. The park has huge dinosaur beasts appearing through thick foliage and I was 'attacked' by these awesome creatures.

So now more on these guys but the flying type. Pterosaurs is Greek for "wing lizards," that arrived on the scene in the Triassic Period, perhaps as early as around 237 million years ago. These original vertebrate fliers preceded birds by at least 70 million years and bats by more than twice that. During their lengthy reign of the skies, pterosaurs ranged in size from creatures that could sit in the palm of your hand to some with wingspans of 12 metres.

PterosaurIn fact, they are the largest animals that ever took flight now known as a pterosaurs. One has captured the imagination and that is Quetzalcoatlus northropi, the largest to ever take flight .Quetzalcoatlus could reach down to the ground with its long, toothless beak and even into bodies of water. Once it grabbed its prey, it could tilt its beak to the sky and swallow its victims whole. This pterosaur patrolled through meadows or waded in shallow waters as modern-day storks or herons do, plucking up fish, mammals or even small dinosaurs using its beak to crush its capture. I think I saw one flying over Crystal Palace but maybe I was mistaken.

Hungry Hippo Saturday 12/05/2023: It is my birthday today and once again I would like to thank you all for interacting with me for many moons. It means a great deal. Lots of people don't like social media. I have changed. I like it now. I have had so many great conversations with you lot. Plus, I saved a middle aged fellow today who was washed out to sea in an inflatable pink flamingo. He was the guy, who ate the guy who ate all the pies. An excellent dude called Mario. It took me 20 minutes to bring him back to shore, because I had to pull him by holding hands through heavy surf. He was shattered and scared and when I got him close to shore, he panicked even more and jumped on the rocks, discarding the flamingo, which burst. He got safely back to his family. That is a top birthday result for me. The biggest bonus is that Cathy Nel has stuck with me for 300+ years. Peace, love, and respect to you all. Photo here of the chap I rescued!!!! Photo by Dale Morris.

Darien Gap MigrantsMonday 15/05/2023: As many of you know I had planned to attempt to cross The Darien Gap by motorbike and had it all set up for Cathy and myself with guides and porters but then disaster. Covid 19 struck, and all borders closed, and travel stopped. At the time The Gap was a tortuous route with thick jungle and swamp lands. Now it is very different. Last year 40,297 migrants took the route, last month and 16,246 already, according to Panama's Security ministry. Last year a record 133,000 people risked their lives on the perilous trek through the lawless jungle – and the numbers keep rising. At the start of the trek, they cross knee-deep rivers and scramble up muddy slopes in the sweltering heat. But the worst of their journey is yet to come. Ahead of them lies one of the most dangerous border crossings in the world, a lawless, roadless region of mountainous jungle, venomous snakes, fast-flowing rivers and murderous drug traffickers that connects South and Central America. Many of the migrants are robbed, raped, and murdered by traffickers and armed groups. Women sometimes give birth along the way. About a quarter of those making the journey are children, most of them under five. Now there is no point in even thinking of The Darien. A blow to my dreams and I hope that the passage for those migrants attempting the crossing fulfil their hopes of achieving a better life in a safer country.

Cleansing CeremonyTuesday 16/05/2023: On to a subject I have mentioned several times before but here is some more related info. Indigenous groups in Mexico, especially the Mexica, Mayans and Mazatecans, have been using hongos sagrados, sacred mushrooms, for thousands of years. They didn't always use them to cure psychiatric illnesses or to end the fear of death. They often used these mushrooms to communicate with the gods. There are at least 200 species of mushrooms known to have hallucinogenic effects and Mexico has the most, with 53 varieties growing in the country. The most potent of these belong to the genus Psilocybe, and these are often used by indigenous people in Mexico. Hongos sagrados, are used by shamans, also known as graniceros, to perform ceremonies or rituals to control the weather. Graniceros are believed to have the ability to enter into contact with sacred elements. They have wide knowledge of medicinal plants and can cure the human spirit and illnesses of the body. So they are tiemperos on one side and traditional doctors, or curanderos, on the other. Hongos sagrados are harvested during the rainy season in Mexico, which typically begins in May. Those who ingest them enter a trance, that is believed to be something totally sacred and supernatural, the world of mystery, the world unknowable and incomprehensible. Next time in TESCOS ask if they have Hongos sagrados as you want to enter the spiritual world.

Volcano EruptingThursday 18/05/2023: Was thinking of a ride out to Popocatépetl but the government of Puebla city and other surrounding municipalities are reviewing evacuation routes and shelters to prepare for explosive activity. In the last 24 hours, 94 emissions of water vapor, gasses and ash were registered by the monitoring systems of the National Centre for Disaster. Already, ashfall has prompted health authorities to recommend that residents use face masks, as it poses a considerable risk of respiratory disease. All measures and evacuation routes have been planned, over 3,000 vehicles are prepared to evacuate the 13,000 inhabitants living in the risk area. The Popocatépetl volcano has registered intense activity, putting the area on high alert. Don't want to be a frazzled Spencer so will stick to turtle rescuing. Not so life threatening.

Vasco De QuirogaSaturday 20/05/2023: I fly out of Mexico in a week to the UK for adventure bike shows but disaster as my bike will not be with me. It was parked 'safely' outside my flat and was severely damaged by a car driven by someone on her phone. Need to obtain spares and rebuild!!! A dent, big, to my plans. Any way still be at ABR Festival and at Cornwall Show as per the pic here.

Sunday 21/05/2023: Mentioning flying have learnt today that my TV programmes are now being screened as inflight entertainment on Starlux Airlines in Taiwan that flies to Japan and other far east counties and on routes to the States.



That's all but leave you with a photo of Albino, one of our five cats. Also have a dog, Eyebrows, a chicken, and a gecko. Stay well and put the kettle on for some home brew!! Spencer.

BEST I CAN DO

Paddington Bear Thursday 20/04/2023: Next month I will be flying to the UK to attend Adventure Bike shows so have become aware of new research into why people sitting in airplane seats for an entire long-haul flight are at risk of dangerous blood clots. It seems that immobile, hibernating bears settled in for winterlong slumbers have low levels of a key protein, HSP4. Platelets lacking this protein don't easily stick together, protecting the animals from developing potentially dangerous blood clots. Low levels of the protein are not just found in bears. Mice, pigs, and humans with a largely sedentary lifestyle because of long-term mobility problems have the same protection. Staying still for long periods of time, as during air travel, can put people at risk of developing deep vein thrombosis, rare, but dangerous blood clots, that usually take shape in the legs. During such periods of inactivity, inflammation and slow blood flow can make clots more likely to form. Hibernating bears spend months in a dormant state, lowering their heart rate below what's typical in active months. Studies have revealed that the animals don't die of conditions linked to blood clots in veins during hibernation. What's more, people who experience extended immobility have a low HSP47 level in platelets. In hibernating bears, levels of the protein were about one-fiftieth the amount found in active animals. Looks like the solution to prevent blood clots is to hibernate for long periods. That's not an excuse to become a sedentary recluse. Paddington take note. Stop searching for marmalade! Retire for a long-term snooze so you can drop in on King Charles for a cup of breakfast tea in the future.

Flash DroughtSaturday 22/04/2023: As discussed before in my Logs climate change is affecting everyone as shown by fast-forming droughts occurring more often and with greater speed in many parts of the world. These "flash droughts" are replacing more typical, slower ones and are harder to predict and prepare for, which could make their management more difficult. Most major droughts have tended to occur over seasonal or yearly time scales, resulting from variability in large-scale climate patterns such as El Niño. But in the last six decades, there has been a transition toward more droughts that form over just a few weeks with little warning. As the world continues to warm, causing more evapotranspiration and less rainfall, flash drought frequency is expected to continue to rise. Many affected areas transformed from normal conditions to extreme drought within a month. Flash droughts start and intensify quickly, over periods of weeks to months, compared to years or decades for conventional droughts. They cause substantial economic damage since communities have less time to prepare for the impacts of a rapidly evolving drought. Flash droughts also increase wildfire risks, cause public water supply shortages, and reduce stream flow, which harms fish and other aquatic life. It is vitally important for all countries and communities to do as much as possible to prevent further increase in climate change. So sayeth Spencer!!

Olmec Monster HeadWednesday 26/04/2023: From former colonised territories artefacts of all kinds are being returned to the territories from which they came and recently an Olmec 'Monster Head' was returned to México from an American University. But who were the Olmecs? The Olmec civilization is considered to have been one of the most influential in the Americas, having given rise to others that later inhabited the region, including the Maya and the Mexica. The head represents an "earth monster," a creature that commonly appears in Olmec cultural iconography. The figure's jaws, which open like a cave, represent access to the underworld. The Olmecs were the earliest known major Mesoamerican civilization which flourished during Mesoamerica's formative period, dating roughly from as early as 1500 BCE to about 400 BCE. Pre-Olmec cultures had flourished since about 2500 BCE, and were the first Mesoamerican civilization, and laid many of the foundations for the civilizations that followed. The Olmec appeared to have practiced ritual bloodletting and played the Mesoamerican ballgame, as mentioned in a previous log, a hallmark of nearly all subsequent Mesoamerican societies. The aspect of the Olmecs most familiar now is their artwork, particularly the aptly named "colossal heads". « check it out on this wikipedia link » The Olmec in addition to making human and human-like subjects were adept at animal portrayals. The colossal heads are up to 3 m tall, and probably represent dignitaries venerated in religious activities performed by a combination of rulers, full-time priests, and shamans. The rulers seem to have been the most important religious figures, with their links to the Olmec deities or to the supernatural providing legitimacy for their rule. The Olmec may have been the first civilization in the Western Hemisphere to develop a writing system. Symbols found in 2006 date from 900 BCE preceding the oldest Zapotec writing, which dates from about 500 BCE. The Olmecs were pioneers in many ways!!.

Eagle RayNearly had a heart attack today as out swimming and suddenly an Eagle Ray breached the water and then dived back next to me!! Eagle Rays have long elongated tails several meters in length. With inky blue bodies they can be identified by their angular discs and a wide snout. Eagle rays unlike other rays in the ocean prey on shrimps, octopus, small fish, and clams. They are also fast swimmers, which makes them efficient hunters. They swim quite close to the sea floor and occasionally jump out of water, almost attempting to fly, often acrobatically, into the air. They may do this to knock off parasites, to communicate with one another, or for breeding purposes. Eagle rays have flat plates rather than teeth which they use to crush their prey. Super, super to have one with me.

On The SurfSaturday 29/04/2023: Continuing a sea theme, the Turtle Rescue Centre put us in touch with the Lifeguards HQ on Zicatela and we were asked to give swimming lessons to novice Lifeguards!!!!. We took them out this morning in the surf at 7.00am. Five guys and a girl. They are great people but really can't swim that well. I guess in Swaziland and South Africa, we take good swimmers for granted. We started with crawl. They swam with their heads far out the water all the time and didn't use their legs. None of them could do breaststroke, which is weird. The response was so excellent. Taking 12 out tomorrow from Zicatela and La Punta lifeguard stations. Why Lifeguards? Playa Zicatela is the biggest and one of the best beaches in Puerto Escondido. The 3.5km long sandy beach is a popular surfing spot with plenty of wave action from the famous "Mexican Pipeline" at the northern end of the beach. Tubular waves can reach up to 20 feet in height providing a spectacle to watch pro-surfers riding them. However, the surf can be treacherous for swimmers with a lethal undertow - beginner surfers beware! There are lifeguards on duty who perform rescues on a regular basis. Red flag warnings are almost a permanent fixture. My new profession is training Lifeguards. Very enjoyable. Next Mountain Rescue!!

Fake CokeTuesday 02/05/2023: Next time you have a fizzy drink make sure it isn't cloned. Mexicans are among the world's largest consumers of Coca-Cola and other sugary drinks, and a wide range of counterfeit goods, collectively known as fayuca, are manufactured here. Pirated Coke is sold to street food stands in Mexico and criminals have been selling 60 crates of the phony pop per day, with each crate going for 200 to 210 pesos. The fake Coke syndicate, recently tracked by the police, would have thus had a daily revenue of between 10,000 and 12,600 pesos about US $710. The criminals have been arrested and await trial. Several of those involved look as if they have discoloured teeth!! Really.

King Charles III Postbox CoveringSaturday 06/05/2023: Back in the UK celebrations were held in many towns and villages for the Coronation of King Charles 111. Biddenden, where my father lives, celebrated with a function on the local recreation ground and streets were hung with bunting and houses decked with the Union Flag. The post box had its own crown and shops sold cakes in coronation regalia to mark the occasion.

Here is a link for those interested in watching a short video of the event. Don't bother with the following videos if you have no interest...

« King Charles III Video Highlights »

Sunday 07/05/2023: Just off for another Lifeguard training session so on with the face mask and snorkel. Better than going to Maidstone swimming pool. Might see another Eagle Ray rather than a variety of bathers in the indoor pool. Coronation cake and crisps to all. Spencer and Cathy.

Shaman AS YOU WERE

Wednesday 12/04/2023: Firstly, some information on a topic I have mentioned previously. Hair analyses have found that Inca youths selected for sacrifice more than 500 years ago ingested hallucinogenic drinks and coca leaves and alcohol before death. There is evidence of coca-leaf chewing in the hair of two human mummies from Chile dating to around 3,000 years ago. Indirect evidence of drug use in various parts of the world, such as artistic depictions, go back further. Human hair recovered in a Mediterranean island cave has yielded Europe's oldest direct evidence of people taking hallucinogenic drugs. Also, around 3,000 years ago human remains in Es Càrritx cave on Menorca reveal signs of drug use. Shamans who performed spiritual and healing rituals administered plants containing mind-altering and vision-inducing substances. Atropine and scopolamine from nightshade plants, induce disorientation, hallucinations and altered physical sensations. Another, ephedrine, boosts energy and alertness. Shamans would have known how to handle and consume these potentially toxic plants safely. Maybe!!

Gardi Suubdug Friday14/04/2023: Do you need proof of the effects of climate change? The inhabitants of Gardi Sugdub don't! Many of the homes on the island of Gardi Sugdub, in Panama's Guna Yala province, sit right at the edge of the sea. In pictures from high above, by Michael Adams, the island of Gardi Sugdub resembles a container shipyard — small, brightly coloured dwellings are jammed together cheek to jowl. At ground level, the island, one of more than 350 in the San Blas archipelago off the northern coast of Panama, is hot, flat and crowded. More than 1,000 people occupy the narrow dwellings that cover virtually every bit of the 150-by-400-meter island, which is slowly being swallowed by rising seas driven by climate change. The Indigenous Guna people have occupied these Caribbean islands since around the mid-1800s, when they abandoned the coastal jungle area near what is now the Panama-Colombia border to establish better trade and escape disease-carrying pests. Now, they are among the estimated hundreds of millions of people worldwide who by the end of the century may be forced to flee their land because of rising sea levels. We are losing the battle against the changes in climate that cause so many problems to humans on this globe. The islanders will not survive as the sea rises around them year on year!

Saturday15/04/2023: On to an aspect of travelling around South and Central America which is always depressing. Cathy and I have met some wonderful people and have had amazing experiences but, on occasions, have been subjected to life-threatening incidents and sights of human misery. The next two paragraphs are an extract from my book on South America, 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat'...

We saw such in Suriname as recounted in my book. After dealing with the brutal, but unspoilt and pristine, BR319, Ghost Road, we drove into a hell, made by man. After hundreds of kilometres of red jungle road, nothing, but the bike, Cathy and I, and the Amazon animals. We were jarringly reminded, that there was another animal in the world, man. The 'first contact' with man we had, was the smell and taste of burning plastic as we rode straight into a huge plume of dense, black smoke. Our eyes were smarting, and it was difficult to breathe. We turned a slippery, red mud corner and ahead of us were kilometres of garbage, in a huge clearing in the jungle. On the left-hand side of the road, the whole area was on fire, tonnes of rotting, melting waste, the smoke reaching high into the sky, and blocking out the sun, in a perfect post-apocalyptic scene.On the right-hand side, the dump was fifteen foot high with filthy refuse.

Scavengers Hundreds of young boys and girls, scraps of material tied over their mouths, to deal with the stench, scrabbled through the waste, trying to salvage anything of value. They are known as catadores, and survive by fishing out plastics, metals, cardboard, and other recyclables from the dump, to sell to middlemen. They rummage through detritus, knee deep in reeking mud, watched by massive vultures, who loiter and hop around the children, angrily grabbing scraps of food that are uncovered. There were rats, cockroaches, mosquitos and huge groups of flies, bunched like some obscene cloud, above the dump. Most of the 'workers' were no older than fifteen. A few adults were amongst them. None of them had protective clothing. They were in rags, and flip flops, many getting injured. Nothing looked of value. This is what these young people suffer every day, and they have no future!


Love Under An UmberellaOf course, in parts of the world there is conflict and wars and bombs falling on innocent people. This seems to be the destiny of humanity. But it is not humane! Enough.

Sunday 16/04/2023: Let's move to something more pleasant. They say love makes the world go round but there are many forms of love. Unconditional love, demanding love, unselfish love, sexual love, sisterly love, brotherly love, love for children, for fathers, mothers, for animals, love of nature, the wild, reading and so on and on. How many other forms of love can you name? Let me know on Face book and I will name the winner. Look at the mural and name this form of love.

Five Star Monday 18/04/2023: Just to show we do meet some people occasionally herewith a picture of three bikers, five in a five star hotel!! Sean, South African on left, Josien, Dutch girl and Eric, Arizona dude. Detoured 220 kms to come see us. Very nice people. Hi guys hope you are enjoying your trip through Mexico. Spencer and Cathy.

Tuesday 19/04/2023: Every morning before work (writing my third book) I go snorkelling with a Hawksbill turtle, I call 'Broken Shell'. She doesn't have a snorkel. She is wonderful and about two weeks ago I swam to her cave and to my surprise out popped a male Hawksbill too. So happy for her to have found a mate. Then three days ago I found her with part of a fishing net wrapped around her left, rear flipper and the bottom part of her shell. I have tried for two days to get close enough to cut it off. I managed to get this tiny piece only. I put out a notice on social media and tomorrow five of the lifeguards from Zicatela are coming to help me with paddleboards and a net. Hopefully we can catch her, pull her on a board and cut off the net.

Hawksbill TurtleHawksbills are critically endangered, because of the craze for hairpins and jewellery made from their shells, with only an estimated 15 000 left. Which is nothing. They live from between 50 and 100 years and mate every two years, so saving one is pretty important. I think so. Fingers crossed that we succeed, I'll let you know and thanks to all who have sent good wishes for the rescue.

That's it for this log. Banana and chocolate sandwiches, Cathy and Spencer.

STOP PRESS

I am officially a 'hero diver man', according to the Puerto Turtle Sanctuary. Me and a Canadian volunteer got the fishing net off 'Broken Shells' flipper. All good. She can now lay between 1900 and 2300 eggs in her lifetime! I was interviewed after on camera. Above is the offending line... Spencer


STATUS QUO

Statue Of Liberty Sunday 26/03/2023: We have all become familiar with information on climate change and it is important to consider what will happen on earth in the future. Civilizations don't last forever. Just ask the Aztecs. Or the Maya. Or the Roman Empire. From the ancient Mycenaeans in the Mediterranean to the Anasazi in Arizona, societies throughout history have often gone the way of the dinosaurs and the dodo. Wars, or disease, or altered weather patterns, or natural disasters, or famine have repeatedly tipped complex regional societies past the point of stability, initiating chaos, ruin and ultimately total demise. Scientists have been warning for more than a century that carbon dioxide emissions could alter the planet. Higher average temperatures, hotter summers, melting sea ice, severe droughts, more wildfires, more powerful hurricanes and stronger winter storms are already signalling that climate change is not a myth. International efforts to agree on steps to limit rising carbon dioxide levels have stumbled. Study after study has detailed the numerous negative consequences for agriculture, human health and social well-being. Catastrophic climate change could instigate wars, famine, revolution. Extensive flooding is a distinct threat as imagined in the pic here. Problem. What can be done?

Giant African Land SnailTuesday 28/03/2023: How's your appetite? Are you open to anew tasty snack on your plate? How about large land snails made for easy catching and good eating. The oldest evidence of Homo sapiens eating land snails dated to roughly 49,000 years ago in Africa and 36,000 years ago in Europe. But new research indicates that tens of thousands of years earlier, people at a southern African rock-shelter roasted these slimy, chewy and nutritious croppers that can grow as big as an adult's hand. Analyses of shell fragments excavated at South Africa's Border Cave indicate that hunter-gatherers who periodically occupied the site heated large African land snails on embers and then ate them 170 000 years ago. Escargots anyone?

CapybarasSaturday 01/04/2023: Humans have progressed from snails to other sources of food. We adapt to the geographical climate where we live but what of other creatures? What about Capybaras? Capybaras, the world's largest rodent, naturally live in vast grasslands, wetlands and rivers throughout South America. Their name literally means grass eater in the Tupi language, which is indigenous to Brazil and other regions in South America. We have them here in Mexico. They are very endearing in a woolly way! The animals seem now just as happy munching on leafy forest plants as the wavy grasses they're used to. Dietary flexibility has helped the capybara populations balloon in cities and survive in urban areas. As grasslands are lost to them, they adapt and munch on other vegetation, often to be found on agricultural fields. Unfortunately crop-eating capybaras can get too chunky and suffer poor health, as well as being viewed as pests by farmers for eating or damaging crops. Also in urban areas many are hit by cars, and ticks the rodents carry can transmit deadly Brazilian spotted fever to humans. If the capybaras don't get you the .......

PopacatapeplTuesday 04/04/2023: I have travelled widely in Mexico and been not too far away from El Popo! Popocatepetl is a stratovolcano and it's the second tallest active volcano in North America, 5,425 meters. Traditionally, central Mexico's volatile guardian for Mesoamericans, it was the source of both fire and water, as rain clouds gather there. The Florentine Codex notes that even decades after the imposition of Catholicism on the native peoples in the area, pilgrimages to both petition and appease the volcano continued. Popocatepetl arose over 730,000 years ago, according to scientists. Humans arrived only 10,000 years ago, and since then, archaeological finds and written records provide evidence of the volcano's impact. In the 1990's after 70 years of inactivity, Popocatepetl came back to life. First, its glaciers began to melt, but it was the December 21, 1994, eruption that caused extensive destruction. Since then, a column of smoke from El Popo has been visible on most days, along with ejections of steam, ash and rock. Ash is the main issue for the region and there is a 12-km exclusion zone around the crater because of fallout. Light ash has fallen much further away, either toward Puebla or Mexico City, depending on seasonal wind patterns. It is wise to live a good distance from the volcano as it could erupt at any time. And, like Icarus, don't fly too close.

Oaxaca Jaguar Pot MakerThursday 06/04/2023: Just passed a local woman making traditional jaguar pots. The jaguar has a prominent position in folklore. Jaguars can still be found in the jungle areas in Mexico. It is said to possess the ability of moving between worlds because of it is at home in trees and water, and has the ability to hunt in the night and in the day, and the habit of sleeping in caves, places often associated with deceased ancestors. It became the centre of religious ceremonies and is worshiped as a god. It is well-documented in Mesoamerica and South America records and is represented in the various Olmec jaguar transformation figures. In ceremonies men dress in jaguar costumes and dance in praise of the superbly beautiful animal.

Mexican Arnica FlowerFriday 07/04/2023: Mexico has many plants that have medicinal benefits. You have all heard of the hallucinogenic but there are hundreds of other kinds that grow in the wild and are frequently used in local treatments. One of these is Mexican arnica, not to be confused with European arnica. Mexican arnica has similar anti-inflammatory benefits. For stomach issues and nervous disorders, it was traditionally ingested in a tea form. Today, it is commonly found as a tablet or cream applied topically to reduce swelling and inflammation. It works!!

Statue Of ChristTuesday 11/04/2023: Lastly for this Log and as an Easter nod on this Palm Sunday the municipality of Tabasco, Zacatecas, unveiled the largest statue of Jesus Christ in Latin America. Measuring 31 meters. The colossal figure, named Christ of Peace, that is larger than the iconic Cristo Redentor, Christ the Redeemer, in Rio de Janeiro, beating Brazil's landmark by a single meter. Initially announced in 2020, the monument was officially inaugurated on the Cerrito de la Fe on Sunday, April 9.

Footnote... You will note that April the First was not noted as April Fool's Day so here is a final note, so you notice!! For the origin of fool's day please refer to google but remember it is soon to be Swiss spaghetti harvest day. I have been informed by a reliable 'sauce' that Donald Trump is to star as the next Superman. Best from Spencer.

MUST MAKE A MOVE

Commerce Truck Wednesday 15/03/2023: I thought it was an amazing experience when I circumnavigated Africa but imagine how incredible this journey was in 1931. John Weston, who was born in an oxcart in South Africa and grew to become a pioneering aviation engineer and designer of one of the first Overland trucks, travelled from Britain to Greece and back, with his wife and children in a converted US built Commerce one ton truck with a Continental N engine. At the time, the Weston family was based in Europe but returned to South Africa, their homeland, in 1924, taking the vehicle with them. In 1931, the family set out in the same truck from the south-western tip of Africa and drove to Cairo and on to Britain. And note that the roads were mainly murram, red earth, treacherous in the rains and dust bowls in the dry season. Not only is this story well-documented but remarkably the vehicle is still in the land of the living. In 1975, following renovation, it featured in the International Veteran and Vintage Car Rally from Durban to Cape Town and was then donated to the Winterton Museum, KwaZulu Natal, South Africa, where it can be seen today. They were true pioneers!

Saturday 18/03/2023: In the history of Mexico, the conquest of the country by Hernán Cortés is well known but when the Spanish entered the capital, Moctezuma hoped to placate him with gifts, including large quantities of gold and silver. However, the strategy backfired, making the Spanish more determined to colonise Central and South America. Although Mexico did, and does have gold, its vast deposits of silver have been central to its history and economy since the conquest.

Silver MiningAs Mexico produced far more silver than it could possibly use, the metal became the basis of currency here, in Spain and even some other parts of the world. The first colonial money was the real, later the peso, both originally as units of silver. With the easy-to-reach deposits exhausted, mining waned but never ended through the rest of the colonial period. Much of mountainous Mexico is dotted with former mining towns that still operate today. The silver flowing eastward over the Caribbean was a huge attraction for Europeans. Piracy thrived, with isolated islands and the coast providing English, French and Dutch 'buccaneers' refuge, which is one reason why these languages can be found in various parts of the Caribbean. Today, Mexico is still the world's main exporter, producing over 135 million ounces of refined silver each year.

Viridiana On LhotseMonday 20/03/2023: Mexico has some world famous sports men and women but recently a Mexican mountaineer Viridiana Álvarez has become the first woman from the Americas to climb the world's five highest mountains - Everest, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu. If any readers have been over 20 000 feet you know the effect of altitude on mind and body. But climbing over 25 000 is a debilitating and life-threatening experience. Ask my father. He knows. It also takes a long time to recover physically. Álvarez rose to fame in 2019, when she was awarded the Guinness World Record for being the woman with the fastest ascent to the top three highest mountains using supplementary oxygen. Alpine climbing is a style of fast ascent, with little equipment to slow climbers down, and is often used by mountaineers who strive to get to the summit as quickly as possible. This style of climbing recently allowed her to summit Everest without oxygen, making her only the 9th woman in history to achieve the feat. Congrats Viridiana.

Log Carrying Wednesday 22/03/2023: Have you ever tried carrying heavy loads? How did humans transport large timbers and stones before the mechanical age? Read on to be enlightened! A physiologist, Prof Kram and James Wilson, his student, from the University of Colorado Boulder, conducted an experiment to ascertain how large trunks of wood were caried to the temple site in Chaco Canyon in the northwest corner of New Mexico It is the home of grand structures built between A.D. 850 and 1200. Multi-storeyed stone buildings called great houses had roofs with timber beams about 5 meters long and 22 centimetres in diameter. The site contained at least 200,000 timbers of this size. He and Wilson proposed that tumplines could have been used to transport the timbers. These head straps have been found on every inhabited continent and are thought to have been used since at least around 2,000 years ago. They proved it was possible by carrying massive timbers between them over many kilometres in three days. They are still widely used to carry heavy loads, such as by professional porters in Nepal. A tumpline is placed on the crown of the head, to be in line with the spine, with the attached cargo resting on the small of the back. 'Porters' also carried T shaped wooden supports to lower the loads on to them when a rest was needed. Simples! « Check this link to see for yourself »

El ZorroThursday 23/03/2023: Did you know that Mexico was twice the size it is today back in the 1850s? The story of Joaquín Murrieta, the legendary Mexican Robin Hood who inspired the story of El Zorro, has endured and evolved over almost 200 years. To the American authorities in California during the Gold Rush, he was a notorious criminal, but to Mexicans, he was El Patrio: the patriotic avenger who came to symbolize defiance of U.S. oppression. The facts of Murrieta's life are elusive, but the story really begins with the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, signed on February 2, 1848, between the United States and Mexico. The terms which ended the Mexican American war forced Mexico to cede more than 50% of its territory, including the present-day states of California, Nevada, Utah and New Mexico; most of Arizona and Colorado; and parts of Oklahoma, Kansas, and Wyoming. That same year, Murrieta, at age 18, migrated from Sonora, Mexico, to California with his wife, brothers and three of his brothers-in-law to prospect for gold during the California Gold Rush. Murrieta was a successful forty-niner, but as a Mexican, he suffered persecution and discrimination. An assault in 1849 changed Murrieta from a peaceful miner into an outlaw. Murrieta and his family were attacked by a group of U.S. miners who stole his land and home, hanged his brother for a crime he didn't commit, horse-whipped Murrieta and raped and murdered his young wife. At the time, authorities in California were engaged in efforts to expel Mexicans and turned a blind eye to such attacks. Murrieta, and others, fought the authorities and sought revenge but he was finally killed by a group of Rangers. A California historical landmark plaque now marks the site where Murrieta was killed but he has become a legendary figure for Mexicans and many books have been written about his exploits. 16 songs; and 20 TV shows, radio programs and movies, one of the most famous being the romanticized film "The Mask of Zorro," starring Antonio Banderas have added to his fame.

Vasco De Quiroga Saturday 25/03/2023: Finally, many of you would know the name of Thomas More, Chancellor of England in Henry the Eighth's reign. As a devout Catholic he opposed the King's move to separate the English church from Rome. He was executed and is believed to have said before the axe fell, "I die the King's good servant, and God's first". But what has this to do with Mexico? In a mural by Juan O'Gorman featuring Vasco de Quiroga, Michoacán's first archbishop, More can be clearly seen. This highlights the strong influence More's 1516 book "Utopia" had on the Archbishop, who built an artisan manufacturing system among the Purépecha people following More's principles. Here endeth the lesson for today. Peace be with you. Spencer.

YOU MAY ASK

On The Road Tuesday 28/02/2023: What am I doing? Where am I going? What's next? Who knows? Questions I find it difficult to answer as everything has been on hold for so long that I have little idea as to what I will be up to in the next few months. Only plan is to leave Escondido in May to travel to the UK for the bike shows as listed in my previous log. Before then I am attempting to establish biker's routes in Mexico, and beyond, for group rides in the country. These will be off-road at various degrees of difficulty. Will take 'mucho oganisatione' and acceptance by authorities. We shall see.

Rossette NebulaThursday 02/03/2023: Some facts for this log. We may well have too many human stars on earth, but can we have too many stars in the sky? Every million years - a blink of the eye in astronomical terms - our galaxy spawns 10 million to 20 million new stars. That's enough to fill roughly 10,000-star clusters like the beautiful Pleiades cluster in the constellation Taurus. In contrast, many galaxies, including most of the ones that orbit the Milky Way, make no new stars at all. The star formation rate is very important to understand for galaxy evolution. The more stars a galaxy makes, the faster it enriches itself with oxygen, iron and the other elements that stars create. Those elements then alter star-making gas clouds and can change the relative number of large and small stars that the gas clouds form. The Milky Way is the most vigorous star creator in a collection of more than 100 nearby galaxies called the Local Group. The largest Local Group galaxy, Andromeda, converts only a fraction of a solar mass of gas and dust into new stars a year. The Milky Way is tops and in a few million years our night sky will be dazzling bright! Maybe! Can't wait to see stars in my eyes! But as Vincent Van Gogh said, "I don't know anything with certainty, but seeing the stars makes me dream."

NanoparticleSaturday 04/03/2023: Most of us will be familiar with the bitter taste of lemons. You know the song 'Lemon tree very pretty but...' did you know that lemons contain nanoparticles that, when fed to rats, block stone formation. If the tiny sacs do the same for humans, the nanoparticles might one day offer a way to prevent kidney stones. Lemon juice is a well-known home remedy for kidney stones, which form when minerals crystalize and clump up inside the kidney. These rocky lumps can swing around in the urinary tract, slicing and dicing tissues, painful, until they eventually pass out of the body. It is not easy to swallow sufficient lemon juice to have a curative effect. Also swilling loads of lemonade can cause dental problems. Research is ongoing as to how to harvest nanoparticles to treat humans. Not that straightforward as a nanoparticle is only 1 x 10 –9 m or 0.000,000,001 m. Understood? Good, you are officially scientist of the year.

Hungry Hippo Monday 06/03/2023: The Hippos of Escobar. No, not the title of a film on drugs but just to highlight a related problem. The feral hippos, descendants of ones owned by drug lord Pablo Escobar, have multiplied to around 150 and pose threats to residents and the local ecosystem. Dubbed "cocaine hippos" they are the descendants of four calves, a male and three females, Escobar trafficked into Colombia in the 1980s from U.S. zoos and kept on his ranch in Antioquia, a province in northern Colombia just south of Panama. The hippos were just a fraction of the exotic wildlife Escobar kept on the ranch. Male hippos can weigh up to 4.5 tons and are threatening the area's natural ecosystems and biodiversity. Their faeces change the composition of the rivers and impacts the habitat of manatees and capybaras. In 2022, Colombia's government declared hippos an invasive alien species and called for a plan of action. So, has this anything to do with Mexico? Colombia is planning to ship at least 70 hippos out of the country — including about 10 to Mexico. Maybe to a 'Hip, Hip, Hippo Park'.

Mushroom Eating Thursday 09/03/2023: Some more incredibly interesting information for those interested. Did you know that Egyptians ate mushrooms to live longer, and the ancient Greeks consumed mushrooms ceremonially for their visionary benefits. Certain Vikings used mushrooms before battle to render themselves "bloodthirsty and invincible." The Mexica referred to mushrooms as the "flesh of the gods." The last Aztec ruler, Montezuma II, is said to have eaten copious amounts when crowned. Probably in the clouds for days!! Mayans ate mushrooms to contact the gods. The study of mushrooms is mycology and as you have read before in my logs many 'tourists' descend on a village in Oaxaca for 'magic mushrooms' seeking a hallucinogenic experience. Today, restrictions are finally easing on psychedelics, including "magic mushrooms," and many regular mushrooms are accepted as a health aid. There are currently several non-psilocybin types that are being used as a viable alternative to pharmaceuticals. Many of the fungi that are considered medicinal can be found right here in Mexico.

Alaina and Scarlet Friday 10/03/2023: Now to a very serious and sad fact. On International Women's Day in Mexico City, some 90,000 women and girls participated in a march that ended in the Zócalo, the capital's central square. Silvia Vargas, a 67-year-old woman whose daughter was murdered in 2014, was in the crowd. "They were taken alive; we want them back alive" and "not one more femicide" were among the chants heard across Mexico on Wednesday the 8th as women took to the streets to demand an end to gender violence. Artist and art therapist Kate Van Doren invites participation in her Healing Words Project in San Miguel de Allende that is highlighted each March around International Women's Day, when women are photographed with empowering words of their choosing inscribed on their bodies. According to recent World Bank data, Mexico is one of the countries with very high levels of femicide, along with El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, Venezuela, Central African Republic, South Africa, Jamaica, and Guyana. While falling below other countries, the rate is also appalling in the United States. Three women are murdered every day by current or former partners in the U.S. Around the world, one out of every three women experience physical or sexual violence during their lifetimes. Someone you personally know carries that trauma. "Words are powerful. People use these words to reclaim what was taken from them. To reclaim themselves." As Van Doren's photographs show.

DelippsSunday 12/03/2023: Think that's about it for this log and hope some of you kept reding to the end! Lastly must mention my friend, log compiler and web master John Delipps who is a guitarist in a well-known group that play regularly in various locations in the UK, Freak Flag. He now has the distinction of being recognised by another band who have adopted his name. Super John. Can't wait to hear you play when I get back to England.

Mustard and bananas to all. Spencer

SOME MORE NEWS FROM MEXICO

Weddings Thursday 16/02/2023: Just past Valentine's Day on Feb. 14 when hundreds of couples got married for free in different parts of the country thanks to collective weddings organized by local governments. The annual event seeks to support hundreds of citizens to regularize their civil status, including same-sex couples. Close to 1,000 couples took part in the event. Local borough council within Mexico City held free weddings for adult couples over 18 that had presented the required documents such as birth certificate, official identification, and a prenuptial medical certificate. In our region, Oaxaca, the Governor Salomón Jara Cruz served as the honorary witness to more than 400 marriage ceremonies that took place in the city. The local government also surprised nine of the lucky couples with honeymoon trips to Oaxaca's beach resort municipality of Huatulco. Traditionally the bride is serenaded before the wedding ceremony. Cathy and I missed out on this event!

Angela PeraltaSaturday 18/02/2023: Just came across a memorial street with the name of Ángela Peralta. Turns out her full name was María de los Ángeles Manuela Tranquilina Cirila Efrena Peralta y Caster who was born in the Los Vizcaínas neighbourhood of Mexico City in 1845. She became an internationally renowned opera singer although her career was short-lived, she died at 38, but it was intense and tumultuous. At just eight years old, she sang the cavatina ,a short operatic aria, of Italian composer Gaetano Donizetti's "Belisario" at a musical gathering, stunning the audience with her extraordinary talent. She attended the academy of Music in Mexico City and was cast at the age of 15 in the leading role of Leonara in Giuseppe Verdi's "El Trovador." Peralta's debut was enthusiastically received by the audience and marked the beginning of her 23-year long career, which took her on international tours to Europe. Her career was tragically ended when she and 76 of the 80 members of her troupe contracted yellow fever, an epidemic ravaging the city of Mazatlán at the time and died at the Hotel Iturbide. Peralta was a prolific performer who attained international fame and became an acclaimed soprano in the history of opera. At a young age, she overcame the prejudices of the upper class, as she was from a poor background, who viewed opera as an exclusive activity reserved for the wealthy and well-bred. She opened the door for many women who followed in her footsteps. One of the first to herald women's liberation.

Devils Mask Monday 20/02/2023: The lead-up to Shrove Tuesday, also known as Fat Tuesday, is marked by Carnaval celebrations, and a tradition known as the "Dance of the Devils," in which revellers run through towns in costume, their bodies covered in paint to look macabre or otherworldly. Some wear grotesque-looking hand-made masks. There are three main colours used black, representing the underworld, yellow, representing the earthly world, or red, representing infinity. Everything about this tradition emanates from Zapotec, pre-Hispanic beliefs. The Spaniards considered these dances to be "of the devil," which is how the celebration got its name. Some people today in the town of San Martín believe in spirit animals. At birth, each person is assigned their protector animal. During Carnaval, you can see this belief represented in costumes: the necklaces and masks symbolize their spirit animals that can ward off evil beings and defend themselves from being subjugated by Catholicism.

Zombie Fungus Photo by Roberto Garcia-Roa Wednesday 22/02/2023: Danger lurks in the Amazon it has been discovered!!The fungus erupting from the fly, as in the photo, belongs to the genus Ophiocordyceps, a parasitic fungus known as "zombie fungi," due to an ability to infect insects and control their minds. Would you Adam and Eve it? Insect species infected succumb to its own specialized fungus. First, spores of the fungus land on the ill-fated fly and then infiltrate the fly's exoskeleton before infecting its body and eventually hijacking its mind. Once in control, the fungus uses its new powers of locomotion to relocate to a microclimate more suitable to its own growth, somewhere with the right temperature, light and moisture. Fungus and fly then bide their time until the fly dies, becoming a food source for the fungus to consume. Fruiting bodies work their way out of the fly, filled with spores that are released into the air to continue the macabre cycle in a new, unsuspecting host. It is a conquest shaped by thousands of years of evolution. Researchers have found that these fungi harbour all sorts of bioactive chemicals that could have medicinal and pest control applications. But beware there may be a fungus that could infest you with a deadly outcome!! Watch out for the Zombie Fungus lurking in the bushes. Maybe I am infested from my Amazon jungle trips. Who knows? from India and China.

Friday 24/02/2023: As most of you know there are some Bike Festivals in the UK this summer and both I and Cathy will be attending so have included some info for the events.

Christmas 2022

« For more information, click here to visit the Bike Festival SW website »
« ...and click here to see the details and events lined up for you at the ABR Festival 2023 »

Poblanarias MurialSunday 26/02/2023: Have been up in the mountains checking out some routes for Biker Escapes. Some rough riding, beautiful waterfalls, and forest areas. Great for some 'adventure' escapades. Incidentally am now an adopted 'Muralist' as the example shown here is by Pablo Spencer Poblanerias.

Monday 27/02/2023: On my travels, in the distant past, with my family in parts of Africa we explored places where there was an abundance of wildlife. Near to home 'an African mud hut' we had giraffe wandering around and baobab trees on the horizon. There were also species of smaller creatures and during the rains deadly safari ants travelling in their thousands in meter wide rivers. And what has prompted these reminiscences? A mural of a young lepidopterist seen more recently. I've posted it on my < photo archive > so have a look. Fungus fingers to all.


MORE MATTERS FROM MEXICO

Family Holidays Friday 03/02/2023: Recent research has identified that, on average, people value family happiness more than their own. Research indicates that non-Westerners may not value personal happiness as much as people in the West. For instance, outside the West, people tend to see happiness as more interdependent, or grounded in harmony and balance with others, than independent, or grounded in the self. Non-Westerners value family well-being over personal well-being more than in countries in the west, particularly in north-western countries. But even in the most individualistic countries, family, on average, was more important than self. The word "family" has become associated with conservativism, but family remains central to people's lives, regardless of geography or political affiliation. Researchers found that while abortion and same-sex marriage remain highly polarized, family issues, such as those involving domestic violence, juvenile crime or teen pregnancy, are largely bipartisan. In Central and South America, the well-being of the family is more essential than in North America. Perhaps governments should take note of this to weld society togetherness and in the past in the UK there was more community cohesiveness

MeerkatsMonday 06/02/2023: Related to the above for mammals, one secret to a long life is spending it living with friends and family. An analysis of the life spans and social lives of nearly 1,000 mammal species shows that those that live in groups, such as horses and chimpanzees, tend to live longer than solitary beasts, like weasels and hedgehogs. The finding suggests that life span and social traits are evolutionarily entwined in mammals. Some rodents that live in huge, complex, subterranean societies are exceptionally long-lived, sometimes reaching over 30 years of age. In contrast, other rodents like golden hamsters, which are solitary, live to only about four years. There are benefits of living in a group too, such as banding together for protection against predators. Living together may also reduce the risk of starvation as group members increase foraging efficiency by finding and gathering food together. These factors may allow social mammals to live longer. The evolution of a long life may also be more likely in group-living species. Living in a group allows animals to potentially aid the survival of their family members, which carry their genes. Meerkats live in groups as big as 50 and up to fifteen years. Everyone in the 'mob' participates in gathering food, keeping a look out for predators and taking care of the babies.

ProcrastinationWednesday 08/02/2023: Have you ever delayed doing something waiting for when you feel more ready to do it? Procrastination is something we all suffer from at times, and it seems it is not too good for us. It is related to a range of potential health issues and other negative outcomes, including depression, anxiety, stress, disabling arm pain, poor sleep quality, physical inactivity, loneliness and economic difficulties. TRUE!! Proof positive is that procrastinating students suffer many of the listed outcomes. They are slightly more stressed, anxious, depressed and sleep-deprived, and more worryingly, are at greater risk of developing both physical and psychological problems later in life. Procrastinating is a way to sidestep the negative emotions linked to a task, and to avoid anything painful or difficult. Procrastinating provides immediate relief. But the relief it provides is only temporary, and if the task cannot be avoided may lead to more serious outcomes. So don't put off buying till tomorrow what you could buy today!!!

Friday 10/02/2023: There is a new smuggling racket becoming problematic between Mexico and the States. EGGS!! Increases in attempts to smuggle eggs have been recorded at crossings between Tijuana and San Diego as well as other southwest border locations. It's well-known that criminals smuggle narcotics and people across Mexico's northern border into the United States. Now, people are also trying to move bacon's frequent companion into the U.S. due to high egg prices in that country. Eggs are now 60% more expensive than last year and there has been a huge increase in the number of eggs intercepted at borders, uncooked eggs are prohibited entry from Mexico into the U.S. Failure to declare them can result in penalties of up to $10,000. So don't 'egg' anyone on to do it!

Fishy Business Monday 13/02/2023: Been out about in the last couple of days and had to traverse several rivers and rough terrain. Needed to dry out my boots. Visited a local dive center, where you could get refreshment. Probably shouldn't drink and dive. There was some fishy business on the way and Cathy took time to wander around the market. See < photo archive > for more piccies.

Wednesday 15/02/2023: Lastly some information on a topic you are all interested in. Sheep!

SheepishDid you know that sheep have had an amazing influence on the way man evolved and lives. For example, sheep's wool is used for a huge number of things among them being as an insulator. Air trapped between the fibers creates a thermal barrier, so it keeps you warm on a cold day and cool when hot. It also generates heat and if stored in heaps it becomes hot. Wool is also fire resistant and is difficult to burn. It smoulders and will not burst into flames. Wool blankets are used to smother fires and woollen underwear is often worn by firefighters to protect themselves. It can also be made into felt, as the Romans knew, as they covered their shields stitched through those made of wood for added protection. How many other uses can you name? And how many saying can you think of related to sheep. 10? 20/ 100? Get a copy of 'A Short History of the World According to Sheep' by Sally Coulthard. An informative and interesting read. So says Spencer!! Remember I'll always be there for ewe! I turn grass into wool. What can you do? Sheep shanks to you. Spencer and Cathy.

Lantern Festival LOOK TO THE FUTURE

Sunday 22/01/2023: In most parts of the world, we are now well into the second month of 2023, but in China New Year has just been celebrated ushering in the year of the Rabbit and the end of the Year of the Tiger, signalling the beginning of spring. In Chinese culture, the rabbit traditionally represents longevity and peace. Let's hope so. It is also celebrated in South Korea, Vietnam and other East Asian countries. In Mexico it is limited to China Town but is worth mentioning in this log. Begun over 2000 years ago, the festival has developed many meanings. It celebrates family reunions and society. It features ancient spiritual traditions. Some also call this the "true" Chinese Valentine's Day and is marked by the Lantern Festival. In Ancient China, women weren't allowed out of the house but on the festival night they can stroll freely, lighting lanterns, playing games and interacting with men. The wild and romantic stories are why some say the Lantern Festival is the true Chinese Valentine's Day.

Sea Of Ice Tuesday 24/01/2023: Now to an issue that affects us all. In January 2022, a cyclone blitzed a large expanse of ice-covered ocean between Greenland and Russia. Major wind gusts galvanized eight-meter-tall waves that pounded the region's flotillas of sea ice, while a bombardment of warm rain and a surge of southerly heat hit from the air. Six days after the assault began, about a quarter, or roughly 400,000 square kilometres, of the vast area's sea ice had disappeared, leading to a record weekly loss for the region. The Arctic Circle is warming about four times as fast as the rest of Earth. A major driver is the loss of sea ice due to human-caused climate change. The floating ice reflects far more solar radiation back into space than naked seas do, influencing the global climate. During August, the peak of the sea ice melting season, cyclones amplify sea ice losses exacerbating warming. Climate change is intensifying storms farther south. But it's unclear how Arctic cyclones might be changing as the world warms. Whatever, there is cause to be worried for the survival of sea-ice.

Clark Gable Thursday 26/01/2023: Now for something for film buffs and just to mention that Richard E Grant, my Patron for my Africa trip, and who attended the same school as I did in Swaziland, is to host this years BAFTAS, it may be of interest to state that Durango in Mexico has been a venue for many Hollywood productions. From the 1950s to the late 1970s, it was a go-to area for filming, with just about every big star from the era spending time there. To date, the state has hosted over 150 domestic and international filming projects, the vast majority westerns. During the westerns' golden age, many were made in the location. "The Good, The Bad And The Ugly" "The Wild Bunch", "A Man Named Horse," "Pat Garret & Billy the Kid", and "Goin' South" bringing actors like, Mexico-born, Anthony Quinn, Glenn Ford, Clark Gable, Sidney Poitier, Rock Hudson, Susan Hayward and Jack Nicholson. John Wayne alone had a huge impact here, filming the "The Sons of Katie Elder", "The War Wagon", "The Undefeated", "Chisum" and "Cahill U.S. Marshal".

Saturday 28/01/2023: Some of you have read my book on South America and for a warning I included this information on the dangers of taking hallucinogens. It involves three back-packers I met who took a 'trip' into the jungle. 'More importantly, I was genuinely worried about them, for the night to come for the real Ayahuasca ceremony. Let's imagine this is the plan for your 18-year -old son or daughter; go to a foreign country, take some super strong drugs, that you have no clue as to the effects. Then go into the jungle with a bunch of strangers, in a foreign country, for the night. What could possibly go wrong? A lot.

Ayahuasca CeremonySadly, not only have people gone missing in the jungles of Colombia and Peru after an Ayahuasca ceremony, but people have also died from a reaction to the drug. There is also no doubt that people of a fragile mind, or delicate disposition, are at a high risk of going bonkers. (Technical term.) The drug made headlines last year when a British coroner confirmed that Henry Miller, a 19year-old from Bristol, had died from taking a dose, during a shamanic ceremony. The coroner urged the Foreign Office to provide a standard message, warning tourists. Miller's story may serve as a cautionary tale to any of you considering this 'trip'. Miller had attended one ceremony where he drank three cups of yage but told his family he felt nothing. Two days later, he attended another ceremony, but rapidly fell ill. He was carried by two teenage tribesmen to a local clinic. He died on route. The tribe that administered the Ayahuasca apologised and levied a punishment of nettle 'hipping' for the shaman and some of his family'.

Just a couple of notices that caught my eye and feel are suitable for this week. I try to follow this but maybe a little off the wall.

Fear And BIke Advice Signage

...and excellent advice for bikers!

Pterodactly Wednesday 01/02/2023: More than 50 million years of steady miniaturization and rapidly changing bodies transformed the massive animals into relatively tiny ones: birds. A new analysis of bones, feathers and teeth from 120 dinosaur species validates what some scientists had suspected: Modern birds' ancient ancestors evolved quickly and shrank continually. So next time you look up to see a bird be careful it might be a dinosaur!!

Scramble eggs and coconut cheese. Cathy and Spencer.


ONWARDS

Popocatepetl Thursday 12/01/2023: It's early in the start of a new year and as in past logs I provide some more information on Mexico. According to the National Centre for Disaster Prevention, there are 48 volcanoes in Mexico that are considered active, among which are Popocatepetl. The last volcanic disaster in Mexico occurred in Chiapas in 1982, with the eruption of the volcano 'Chichón', which had been inactive for 550 years. It destroyed 400 square kilometres of forest, affected nine villages and it is estimated that there were two thousand deaths. The Popocatepetl volcano is an example of what an active volcano is as since 1993 it has had an increase in its seismic and fumarolic activity in its crater. On December 21, 1994, it produced the first ash emission in 70 years. At present there are water vapor and gas plumes, light falls of ash and incandescent fragments spouting from the crater. Not too sure I would want to be too close!

Volodoras Saturday 14/01/2023: If you want a challenge, try jumping from a high pole attached to a rope of dubious quality. Or just be a spectator when five people in colourful costumes climb a tall pole to flute music. When the moment is just right, four of them throw themselves off the pole simultaneously, with only unwinding cords keeping them from crashing to the ground. This is the internationally known "dance" of the voladores or "flyers." At one time, women were strictly forbidden to "fly," but thirty years ago that changed to allow women to participate. Depictions of flyers are found as early as pre-Classic (1500 B.C. to AD 200) Mesoamerica, with 'flyers' in costumes of sacred birds, eagles, quetzals and parrots, spinning in the air from a tall tree cut and placed in the ground. There are still some who think that women should not participate and make harsh rules for them to become voladores, such as virginity, and to make special prayers of forgiveness to counter the possible "evil" they could invoke. Misogyny still exists.

Condor Sunday 15/01/2023: I have talked about volcanoes, that are spectacular, but onto another magnificent sight that can be seen in certain regions of Mexico, Condors, but they are a threatened species. There is a project in operation in the Baja California wilderness to achieve a self-sustaining population of 150 condors. Birds are being bred in safe havens and then released into the wild in the national park, where their recovery progress is tracked. The group there is currently 45 birds, including adults, young and offspring, some of which have been born in the wild. Retreats in the United States and Mexico are ensuring that the Condor will survive and avoid extinction. Let's hope so!

Humpback Whale Monday 16/01/2023: Slightly better news for our creature friends concerns the Humpback Whale. Humpback whales are fascinating to watch, and their behavior is constantly changing. At a length of 46 to 56 feet and weighing as much as 40 metric tons, these gentle giants are powerful but graceful. Their flamboyant acrobatics make them the entertainment superstars of the whale world. The good news is that the humpback whale population is growing. During the 20th century, their numbers dropped almost 90%. But when the International Whaling Commission banned commercial humpback whaling in 1986, the population soared and we can see them off the coast in Mexico.

Old Woman Smoking Tuesday 17/01/2023: Still in Mexico and info on a new law. People are now explicitly banned from smoking in outdoor public places such as parks, town squares and beaches as well as offices, hotels, restaurants, schools, stadiums, shopping centres and entertainment arenas. Smoking is already banned in many of the aforesaid indoor spaces. The anti-smoking law also prohibits all forms of advertising and promotion of cigarettes including sponsorship arrangements involving tobacco companies. Retailers such as the ubiquitous convenience store Oxxo are no longer permitted to stock tobacco products in open view of customers. Health regulator Cofepris will be responsible for ensuring compliance with the law, which is expected to have an impact on demand for tobacco. The federal Health Ministry anticipates that the new law will prevent 49,000 premature deaths and 292,000 cases of smoking-related illnesses over the next 10 years, It remains to be seen how strictly the anti-smoking law will be enforced in a country where approximately 16 million people - one in eight Mexicans - smoke.

Vesperados Thursday 19/01/2023: Now to something prompted by the cartoon here and to related past events.

Some will remember the Mods and Rockers, the two conflicting British youth subcultures of the 1950s. That's before I was around!! Media coverage of these 'gangs' fighting sparked a moral panic about British youth, and the two groups became widely perceived as violent, unruly troublemakers. The subculture was centred on motorcycling. The groups just didn't get on with each other. Rockers were old school with motorbikes and café racing, rock and roll and leather jackets. Shades of Marlon Brando.

Vespa In ActionMods were the new kids on the block, snappy dressers, riding scooters, mainly Vespers, first on sale in 1946, and experimenting with amphetamines. Get them both together on a bank holiday weekend on the beaches of southern England, stand back and watch the outcome. The constant violent confrontations led them to being branded as 'folk devils.' Are they still around? Not the mods and rockers but there are some who still adopt the Vespa persona and the bike remains very popular in Europe and elsewhere. They are sometimes upgraded to race off-road.

Friday 20/01/2023: Lastly to a recent event in Mexico. A wide range of pets paraded through the San Antonio Abad church in Cholula to be blessed in honour of the animals' patron saint, in what was once a worldwide Catholic tradition.

Animal BlessingChurches across the city, and across Mexico, welcomed a menagerie of dogs, cats, parrots, turtles, rabbits, sheep and exotic pets to commemorate a Catholic tradition. St. Anthony, a fourth-century Christian monk, born in Egypt, and who helped spread monasticism and Christianity's ascetic ideal, came to have a special relationship with animals while living an ascetic life in the desert for 13 years. Catholic farmers traditionally looked to St. Anthony to bless their fields and their work with animals. Now animal lovers take them to be blessed at Catholic churches to protect them from dangers and illness.

No more fantastically interesting information from me. Tell your friends and family to keep up to date with the latest news from Mexico, entirely free. Best from Cathy and myself. Jaffa cakes and custard. Spencer

TWENTY TWENTY-THREE IS HERE

Fireworks Saturday 31/12/2022

HAPPY NEW YEARS EVE!


Good-Day and welcome to Flight 2023. We are prepared to take off into the New Year. Please make sure your Attitude and Blessings are secured and locked in, in the upright position. All self-destructive devices should be turned off at this time. All negativity, hurt, and discouragement should be put away. Should we lose altitude under pressure, during the flight, reach up and pull down on Positive thinking! Positive thoughts will automatically be activated. Once activated you can assist other passengers. There will be NO BAGGAGE allowed on this flight. The Captain has cleared us for takeoff - destination - un known. It has been a fantastic privilege chatting to all of you over the last 13 years. Thank you from the heart of our bottoms, and the bottom of our hearts. Next year is going to be full of action. In the Gregorian calendar, New Year's Eve, also known as Old Year's Day or Saint Sylvester's Day in many countries, is the evening or the entire day of the last day of the year, 31 December and is celebrated with firework displays. Please stay with us. Peace, love and Octopus Coconut Curry for all from me and Cathy!

Curandera Practices Tuesday 03/01/202: Always like to include some information on our adopted country and here in Mexico there is a traditional practice known as curanderismo. This is a healing method that blends religious beliefs, faith and prayer with the use of herbs, massage and other traditional procedures. Curanderismo is thought to be influenced by Aztec, Mayan, Spanish, African and Catholic elements. The curandera is someone who practices curanderismo - spiritual healing based upon the use of traditional herbs and remedies and is often considered a leader in the local community. The curandera is the one who treats undiagnosed illness, particularly when that illness may have metaphysical or supernatural origins. It is believed that a curandera is someone who has been given the gift of healing by God himself - remember, most Spanish-speaking countries are heavily Catholic. The life's purpose of a curandero is to resolve ailments through natural means, taking on the role of a 'doctor', and sometimes 'psychiatrist'. In fact, most of the ailments cured by curanderos are spiritual or emotional in nature. They often solve these maladies through the careful use of spiritual cleansings, essential oils, herbs, incense, eggs and prayer. I had better seek out one for myself.

Burrito Folding Friday 06/01/2023: Continuing with the Mexico theme I give some info on the traditional "Burrito" which literally means "little donkey''. The first mention of burritos was in the "Dictionary of Mexicanisms" in 1895, first seen in the states of Guerrero and Guanajuato. The stuffed, rolled tortilla supposedly resembled bedrolls packed on the backs of donkeys. Another story attributes the burrito's 'invention' to a Chihuahua man named Juan Méndez, who rolled supplies for his food cart in large flour tortillas to keep them warm. Burritos became popular in the United States in the 1930s. In 2010, the Guinness record holder for the World's Largest Burrito, at 5,799 kg (12,785 lbs.) was created in La Paz, Baja California, by members of CANIRAC, Mexico's national chamber of restaurants. About 3,000 volunteers from 54 restaurants worked to create the burrito, made from a single gigantic tortilla that weighed more than 2 tons. It took almost 10 hours to cover the 2.4 km. of tortilla with a simple traditional filling of fish, onion, refried beans and chiles. La Paz's claim to fame!! Smaller ones are easier to fold.

Blashford-Snell Saturday 07/01/2023: Let's leave Mexico for the last part of this Log and go to a dream of mine. The Darien Gap. In 1972, renowned adventurer and holder of the best explorer's name, Colonel John Nicholas Blashford-Snell, a hero, led a sixty-person crew with two Range Rovers through the Darien Gap. It took three months. The expedition was supported with extra men from the British army, the governments of Panama and Colombia, the Natural History Museum, the Scientific Exploration Society, and numerous scientists, desperate to study the unique flora and fauna, but woefully unprepared for the conditions. The expedition was sponsored by Range Rover, Duckham's Oil, and Marks and Spencer's provided the clothing. Food company Heinz supplied the expedition with no less than three tons of food. No 'wind-assisted' jokes please. Despite plentiful help and sponsorship, Blashford-Snell said that the Darien crossing was the toughest challenge of his career. The seasonal floods came early, and the vehicles and crew were locked in mud. The back axles of the Range Rovers, according to Blashford-Snell, "Exploded like shells, with shrapnel coming through the floor." Redesigned car parts were parachuted in after a month (can you imagine me and Cathy affording helicopter assistance?). Later, inflatable rafts floated the vehicles across the problem area of the Atrato swamp. Half the team succumbed to trench foot, fevers and other gruesome ailments, but after ninety-one days, they succeeded, the team diminished in size and enthusiasm, but victorious. So, apart from evangelical nutters and madcap adventurers, there are others getting through; refugees, drug mules (including riderless, unaccompanied horses, packed with cocaine, that know the path), criminals, indigenous Indians, and others. People get through, people don't. The point is that it is a bit of a Russian roulette route. Human skulls, bones and remains of clothes attest to that.

Joey Evans Monday 09/01/2023:
I have been watching the Dakar which is in Saudi Arabia, and I would like to share some comments. Two of my dreams that will not be fulfilled are the two big D's -crossing the Darien and racing the Dakar. As mentioned above in the space of two years the Darien has changed from a wilderness to a wide track according to the Panamanian government, more than 151,000 migrants crossed the Darien Gap en route to the United States between January and September 2022, up from just a couple hundred people annually a decade ago. Nearly twenty-two thousand of them were children. The cost of guides has also made it a financial impossibility. As far as the Dakar is concerned, time ran away, what with circumnavigating South and Central America and Covid. I am now 55. I was lucky enough to follow the Dakar in Africa and to film it in South America. It was a wonderful experience, the route constantly changing from desert, to Savannah, to mountains to sand, the most difficult sections lined with screaming fans. Fast forward to Saudi Arabia. It is devoid of spectators, devoid of atmosphere and the route is through sand dunes, sand dunes and more sand dunes. It is also turning out to be more dangerous than any of the other venues. Talking to an ex-Dakar finisher he told me "Spence, people have to realize that sand is one of the most unforgiving terrains there is on a bike. It is not a soft landing and there are also 'broken dunes'. A broken dune is one where the ascent is a normal gradient but on the other side it has collapsed. This leaves a cliff face up to three stories high. If misjudged it can be catastrophic. Sand is not like asphalt or dirt where you still have forward momentum. Sand will stop you instantly.

Mexican Magic Moment From a rider's point of view the Saudi Dakar is the most difficult and dangerous, but unfortunately this doesn't translate to good TV". Sadly, Saudi has the money to buy the event, but I personally hope it moves in the future. For those interested read Joey Evan's book as pictured.

That's all for now and hope all are well in the world, which I know is impossible, but try to make the most of life wherever you are. Leave you with a magic moment in Mexico.

Burritos to all. Buenos Notches Spencer and Cathy


Feaya's Birthday CHRISTMAS CHEER

Thursday 15/12/2022: My daughter, Feaya, birthday today so happy birthday, hugs and kisses from your absent father. Hope you have a super day and lots of love to you. Miss you a thousand-fold.

Saturday 17/12/2022: Decided to take a trip out of Escondido and ended up in the town of Tepoztlán, in a mountainous area of Morelos. This is both an energetic and spiritual epicentre, the fabled birthplace of Aztec god Quetzalcoatl.

Mayan TemazcalHere you can find the unique Temazcal huts which are traditionally made of wood, cement or volcanic stone. Along the rounded walls are benches and hot volcanic rocks are placed in the centre, which produce a thick steam when mixed with water. Aside from the burning sage, copal, an aromatic tree resin, is added to assist in cleansing the body physically, mentally and emotionally. The claims of 'treatments' are that whilst seated in the huts and inhaling the steaming vapour it will flush out toxins and clear skin conditions. Also lowers blood pressure, cleanses and strengthens the respiratory system, lessens risk of dementia and Alzheimer, reduces anxiety and depression, increases attention span and balances mind, body and spirit!!! Seems like a magical cure all.

Mexican Street MarketMonday 19/12/2022: As Christmas approaches markets are appearing selling craftwork and seasonal trinkets. These are known as Tianguis, generally translated into English as "flea market" or "bazaar." Coming from Nahuatl, it originally just meant "market," since during the Mesoamerican era, just about all buying and selling happened in public plazas and streets.

Nativity Trinkets Over time, the word's meaning narrowed to indicate an itinerant street market that appears on certain days of the week or year. The most traditional are small houses and accessories to set up Nativity scenes, which are still a focal point in Mexican homes at Christmas. The little houses are populated with handcrafted or mass-produced angels, the Holy Family and animals, but one unusual twist is the large, sometimes life-sized, images of the infant Jesus. These have special roles to play on Christmas Eve, Epiphany and Candlemas (Feb. 2). The most visible items in tianguis, especially in larger cities, are Christmas trees, lights and ornaments, which have been gaining popularity since they were introduced in the mid-20th century. Other common items include advent candle holders, poinsettias and wreaths. Will be on the lookout for something unusual to purchase as a memento.

Heart Excercise Thursday 22/12/2022: As this is a time of feasting for those lucky enough to afford to be indulgent spare a thought for what is the result of overeating and drinking. Usually, people suffer weight increase and hangovers from spirited imbibing, and this promotes advice appearing on what to do to prevent health damaging issues. Recent research has shown that brief bursts of activity offer health benefits for people who are careless about maintaining a beneficial lifestyle. Stepping up the pace of a routine walk for a few minutes a day may help lower mortality risk. Those who incorporated three one- to two-minute bursts of intense activity per day saw a nearly a 40 percent drop in the risk of death from any cause compared with those whose days didn't include such activity. The risk of death from cancer also fell by nearly 40 percent, and the risk of death from cardiovascular disease dropped almost 50 percent, research has proved. In a comparison with around 62,000 people who exercised regularly, including runners, gym-goers and recreational cyclists, the mortality risk reduction was similar. The researchers were looking for bursts of vigorous activity that met a definition determined in a laboratory study, including reaching at least 77 percent of maximum heart rate and at least 64 percent of maximum oxygen consumption. In real life, the signs that someone has reached the needed intensity level are "an increase in heart rate and feeling out of breath" in the first 15 to 30 seconds of an activity. This may be difficult to stomach for many but in the long run will enhance your enjoyment of an extended survival. So what about a New Year's resolution!

Sun God Saturday 24/12/2022: The day before Christmas and as we are marking dates a huge circular stone of the Aztec Calendar, also known as the Sun Stone, has been on display. It is a monumental sculpture which weighs a mammoth 24,590kg and slightly over 3ft thick. The circular front panel, which has a huge diameter of around 11.5ft, displays eight concentric circles, on which appear various symbols. These represent a selection of native animals, like crocodiles, jaguars and eagles; natural elements, including wind, water and rain; some rudimentary markers of civilization, such as houses; shared features of humanity, including movement and death. At the very centre is the haunting face of a deity or a monster. It is thought depicts the sun god Tonatiuh, one of the most important deities in the Aztec pantheon.

What makes the image particularly ominous is that the figure is shown baring its dagger-like tongue and clutching a human heart in its claws representing a demand for blood through human sacrifice. The Sun Stone clearly displays the features of a calendar, with periods of time plotted out using symbols and sequences. The Aztec year was made up of 260 days, divided into 13 months, each with 20 days. When the Aztec empire was conquered by the Spanish in 1521, the conquistadores feared that their new subjects would continue practicing their terrifying religious rituals, so the Spaniards buried the Sun Stone upside down in the main square of what is now Mexico City until it was latterly dug up. It has suffered considerable damage and was at one time brightly coloured.

Sun Stone and Venestiano Carranza

Escondido ChristmasSunday 25/12/2022: By the time you read this Christmas will be over, but I hope all had a very good one. Unfortunately, both Cathy and I had dengue fever so not so pleasant for us but coping as best we can. However, I leave you with a pic of our Christmas tree. The presents on the left are for Cathy, mine on the right. Christmas pudding and chillie cake to all. Have a beneficial 2023.

TOMORROW IS ANOTHER DAY

Posada Guadalupe Wednesday 07/12/2022: To continue from the previous log with update with the influx of pilgrims in Mexico City as officials have calculated that 11 million Catholic pilgrims have arrived in the nation's capital this year to converge at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. The faithful, a visible sight every year in the capital, come carrying bedding or tents on their backs to camp out in the basilica's courtyard several days before the celebration. Many also bring family heirlooms, candles, statues, framed images of the Virgin, crosses and other mementos to be blessed. Some faithful drop to their knees near the entrance and crawl in as a show of devotion or of thanks to the Virgin. Pilgrimages to the original small chapel began soon after it was built and have continued ever since. But the basilica is special because Catholics believe that the Our Lady of Guadalupe first appeared at this site on December 9, 1531, to an indigenous Chichimec convert known as Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin. By 1709, crowds had so overwhelmed the site that a new shrine was built at the foot of Tepeyac Hill to house Juan Diego's tilma, or mantle, imprinted with the Sacred Image of the Blessed Virgin. The tilma is hand woven from the coarse fibres of the Manguey plant now located in the current basilica, built in 1976. The basilica can hold 10,000.

For the millions of pilgrims at the basilica festivities begin at the stroke of midnight, with those gathered outside singing "Las Mañanitas", Mexico's traditional birthday song, to the Virgin. Every year the faithful crowd the basilica's entrance to view the cloak and to have objects blessed. For a rendition of the song, Google, copy and paste: 'Ángela Aguilar - Las Mañanitas'.

Datura Stranonium Friday 09/12/2022: Have mentioned before that Mexico has a flora and fauna in abundance and on the prairie lands of Jalisco, on the central west coast of Mexico and not too far from our 'residence', you'll probably find cows eating the grass, but there is also 'nopales', prickly-pear cactus, and the medicinal plant cardo santo, St. Benedict's Thistle jimsonweed.

Ringtail Cat This poisonous plant, known to Mexicans as toloache and to scientists as Datura stramonium, is used as a love potion but it's also a drug that produces temporary insanity - I have probably encountered some individuals who have imbibed it to relieve themselves from hardship and misery. No pointing the finger!! In the Primavera Forest, there are 200 species of birds and 742 species of plants. You will also find 59 kinds of mammals, from voles to pumas, and in the desert regions Ringtail cats. The ringtail, Bassariscus astutus, is a mammal of the raccoon family native to arid areas. It is legally trapped for its fur and is also known as the ring-tailed cat, miner's cat or bassarisk, and sometimes called a cacomistle.

Radises Saturday 10/12/2022: The festive season is with us and to celebrate in Oaxaca people have been searching for radishes!! Why? For the Night of the Radishes. If you're looking for an unusual Christmas tradition this is one from Oaxaca city. Every December since 1897, gardeners have competed to fashion the best Christmas scenes using carved radishes, some of these displays are works of art and highly intricate showing the skill of the 'carvers'.

As you know Christmas is nigh and we do have the most common feature of the season in Mexico, the Christmas tree, and I came across one on the beach in Escondido today so provide a photo to prove it. We don't have snow at 28 degrees, but I have a photo of Biddenden village high street where my father lives and also where I stay when in the UK. Temperature recently has been -5 degrees so a contrast to my present habitude.

Christmas 2022

Shark HelmetSunday 11/12/2022: Have been out and about and have managed to pick up a new protective helmet. Cool marketing for Shark gear!!

Saturday 19/11/20/2022: There have been some commemorative events in Mexico recently for a 'hero' of the Mexican Revolution. Best known as Pancho Villa, he was born Doroteo Arango in 1878 in Durango. His life of violence and flight began early, after killing an hacienda owner who had assaulted his sister. Villa joined the fledgling Mexican Revolution, recruited rebels, and formed his own army, the División del Norte, which rose to national prominence. He joined other revolutionaries such as Emilio Zapata and Álvaro Obregón against the Victoriano Huerta regime which was supported by the Americans.

Monday 12/12/2022: Sad to report that Cathy is in hospital as she has contracted Dengue fever which is a mosquito-borne tropical disease caused by the dengue virus. Symptoms begin three to fourteen days after infection and may include a high fever, headache, vomiting, muscle and joint pains, and a characteristic skin itching and skin rash. Cathy has most of these symptoms. Recovery generally takes two to seven days, but Cathy has two strains which are more difficult to treat. This is not the best of news!!

Tuesday 13/12/2022: Cathy sleeping all day in hospital and doing my best as an auxiliary nurse although not feeling too good myself. Hopefully recovery will not take long so end this log to wish all a Christmas pudding, or festive delight wherever you are. Mistle toe and frog's spawn. Best Spencer.


Nochebuena FESTIVALS AND FEASTS

Wednesday 23/11/2022: Christmas is fast approaching and in Mexico, as elsewhere, it is time for decorations and seasonal flowers. One such flora is the nochebuena flower probably brought by the Mexica leader Moctezuma from the southern parts of Mexico to his palace in Tenochtitlan to use in ceremonies and rituals. Later, with the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, the Franciscan monks used the plant to decorate altars and started calling it 'nochebuena' since it bloomed during the Christmas festivities. Christmas Eve is known as nochebuena in Spanish. The flower was much later introduced to the United States in 1825 by the U.S. ambassador to Mexico, Joel Roberts Poinsett so the plant came to be known as "poinsettia". Poinsettias grow wild in Mexico and there are 30 varieties today – including white, yellow, and pink – which are exported to many countries across the world.

Jaguar GodFriday 24/11/2022: Recently Ancient Maya art exhibits have been on display in New York. In the Maya tradition, some gods could die while others could be born anew, embodying the concepts of regeneration and resilience. Addressing those qualities, the exhibition features rarely seen pieces crafted by master artists of the Maya Classic period (A.D. 250-900) who lived in royal cities of what are now Mexico, El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, and Belize. The sculptures, which range from monumental to miniature, depict gods at all stages of life: from the moment of their creation in a sacred mountain, to maturity, old age and, in some cases, rebirth. Some transformed into blossoming flowers or fearsome creatures of the night. Other works, like finely painted ceramics, reveal the eventful lives of the gods in rich detail. Another item on display at the exhibition is an incense stand which depicts a jaguar god wearing a warrior headdress

Twisted Fellow Saturday 26/11/2022: It was a brutal ride to heaven. Dirt road to a series of 39 stunning cascadas in the jungle of Oaxaca. Obviously, being me I got a creature in my ear and a droopy eye, and a sting on my bum cheek, but all good. Cathy refused to suck out the venom. Think she thought I was a bit twisted!

The area is known as Cascadas Mágicas de Copalitilla. Water has been a huge part of my travels for the last 13 years. Water transforms from a flowing river to a tranquil lake, to a powerful waterfall, to a freshwater spring, to a meandering creek, to a salty sea, to raindrops gentle on your face, to hard stinging hail, to frost on a mountain top and back to a river again. Like a waterfall, life doesn't flow backwards. So, make the most of it. Remember that peace is to find a ledge above the waterfall of your thoughts. OK. Enough waterfall talk.

Sonoran Desert Sunset After three days in the jungle, we returned to Escondido and civilisation. But since we have been in the wild perhaps some more info on the 'outback' of Mexico. OK! The country has 185 designated natural protected areas (ANPs) covering 90,958,494 hectares of land and sea and Mexico has it all: there's the lush Lacondan Jungle of Chiapas. The towering saguaros of the Sonoran desert.

The tropical pine-oak forests found high in Oaxaca's Sierra Madre. Colourful Caribbean reefs teeming with aquatic life. Even a few delicate patches of alpine meadow remain on the volcanic peaks near Mexico City. That's part of why Mexico is one of the most biodiverse countries in the world: though it covers only 1.3% of the world's landmass, it is home to more than 10% of all species on Earth.

Tiger SharkTuesday 29/11/2022: Staying with nature scientists have teamed up with tiger sharks to uncover the largest expanse of seagrasses on Earth. A massive survey of the Bahamas Banks has revealed 92,000 square kilometres of seagrasses which increases the estimated global area covered by seagrasses by 41 percent — a potential boon for Earth's climate. Beneath The Waves, a marine organisation, surveyed a seagrass field in the Bahamas Banks with sharks fitted with cameras. Seagrasses can sequester carbon for millennia at rates 35 times faster than tropical rainforests. The newly mapped sea prairie may store 630 million metric tons of carbon, or about a quarter of the carbon trapped by seagrasses worldwide. Sharks have potential to capture on camera other hidden natural assets.

Crocked Thursday 01/12/2022: Another month and soon to be a new year. Thought I would share with you a photo taken in my former homeland as a reminder of the magnificent creatures with whom we share the planet. It is a pity that this one has departed this earth.

Saturday 04/12/2022: Every year from December 9th to 12th - except in 2020 and 2021 - millions of faithful from all over Mexico travel to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, which stands on Tepeyac Hill (Cerro Tepeyac) north of Mexico City. According to tradition, Mary appeared to Juan Diego, who was an Aztec convert to Christianity, on December 9 and again on December 12, 1531. During her first appearance she requested that a shrine to her be built on the spot on Tepeyac Hill The bishop demanded a sign before he would approve construction of a church and it is said that Mary then appeared a second time to Juan Diego and ordered him to collect roses. In a second audience with the bishop, Juan Diego opened his cloak, letting dozens of roses fall to the floor revealing the image of Mary imprinted on the inside of the cloak—the image that is now venerated in the Basilica of Guadalupe.

Some pilgrims travel hundreds if not more than 1,000 miles to make it there. As many as 8 million visitors have participated in the tradition in a single year.The celebrations for the 'Morenita of Tepeyac' this year will finally take place with the normality with which they had been done for generations until the COVID-19 pandemic, which forced the ecclesiastical and civil authorities to take restrictive measures. There are 132 temples in Mexico City alone dedicated to Guadalupe, as well as 74 in Guadalajara and 32 in Michoacán as well as three to Saint Juan Diego.

Ascension de la Virgin De Guadalupe

Have a great evening all of you. Peace love and fresh waterfall shrimps for all from me and my Cathy Nel

THE PAST AND THE FUTURE

Escondido Motocross Wednesday 09/11/2022: This log has been jump started by a recent event in Escondido where we have been for the past couple of years. It was something that reminded me of my youth when I was at Waterford Kamhlaba school in Eswatini, formerly Swaziland. The school's Swazi name means 'Little World' and is one of the United World Colleges that are to be found in several regions of the globe. The ethos of these colleges is to educate students together from many areas of the world. At Waterford there were fifty-three nationalities, my brother Simon and I attended at the same time as Richard. E Grant, who, when I circumnavigated Africa, was my Patron. More on Richard later. Why am I going back to my early life? Escondido Motocross!!

Friday 11/11/2022: In my early days, many moons ago, Simon and I rode motorbikes on the African plains and we also competed in Enduro events that were run by a Swazi bike club. Simon had a Kawasaki KDX 250, and my first bike was a Yamaha XT 175. Simon was a risk taker, riding across wild and rocky country competing against older bikers from South Africa and managing to outride many over the challenging terrain. The club is still in existence and has expanded over the years with very young and adult bikers now competing. The Escondido motocross event brought back memories hence my mentioning them. There are a couple of photos on the Photo Archive on this website.

Only For Ex-Cons Tuesday/15/11/2022: On to something more recent. For all the ex-cons amongst my readers, particularly for those who I have met on my travels in some dodgy places in South America but who treated Cathy and myself with respect, one such group as mentioned in my latest book in the chapter 'Chucky and the Triceratops'. 'Why do you all have those cuts?' I asked. 'Every time one of our gang gets in trouble with the police or the army, or with rival gangs, or gets killed, we cut ourselves,' he said, without looking up. I have found a culinary treat for all. Actually, you get two-for-one if you did long service.

Thursday 17/11/2022: Now to the future. Christmas is celebrated in Mexico, as in many other countries, and like elsewhere presents are given and houses and streets are decorated. In Tlalpujahua and Chignahuapan, the Christmas spirit is all year-round since these two magical towns are Mexico's top producers of Christmas ornaments. Both will host their traditional ornaments fairs to attract shoppers to hundreds of stalls selling hand-blown glass ornaments. Chignahuapan is the largest producer of Christmas ornaments in the country. With more than 300 manufacturing shops in town, this industry provides a living to around 80% of the community's families. It produces around 50 million pieces per year, sold in Mexico and abroad. Besides the baubles, people will also be able to buy real pine Christmas trees, hence its name, The Christmas Tree and Ornaments Fair. In Tlalpujahua the fairs encourage browsing among hundreds of stalls with hand-blown glass ornaments. The fairs have already started and run until December 18th.

Christmas Decorations

Mswati And Eric Clapton Friday 18/11/2022: Back to the past. My brother started playing guitar before he was a teenager and one of his idols was Eric Clapton. Maybe not very well known is that Clapton fronted a huge gig in Eswatini in 1989 and top line performers, among them Johny Clegg, Savuka and Brenda Fasse, supported him in a three hour show over three nights. Even less well known is that my father and a friend, Tom Bayly, designed and produced the backdrops for the stage which featured a huge portrait of the young King Mswati who had invited the artists to perform for the King's Trust Charity.

Saturday 19/11/20/2022: There have been some commemorative events in Mexico recently for a 'hero' of the Mexican Revolution. Best known as Pancho Villa, he was born Doroteo Arango in 1878 in Durango. His life of violence and flight began early, after killing an hacienda owner who had assaulted his sister. Villa joined the fledgling Mexican Revolution, recruited rebels, and formed his own army, the División del Norte, which rose to national prominence. He joined other revolutionaries such as Emilio Zapata and Álvaro Obregón against the Victoriano Huerta regime which was supported by the Americans.

Pancho VillaVilla's plan began with an attack on a train in northern Mexico in January 1916, executing 16 U.S. businessmen on board. He carried out small a raid on the Texas town of Glen Springs, but it was his attack on Columbus, New Mexico that triggered U.S. reaction. In this attack more than 600 soldiers entered the border town, killing dozens of Americans and setting the town on fire. The actions had the desired effect: widespread anger in the U.S. and calls for a wholesale invasion. These were not the acts of a madman; Villa's aim was to draw the U.S. into a civil war and to make the Mexican people rise against American dominance. He is a hero in part because he challenged the mighty United States. Mexico eventually broke the yoke of the Americans.

Richard E. Grant I mentioned earlier in this log Richard E. Grant who I first knew at Waterford School. Recently I listened to a BBC radio broadcast called Desert Island Discs on which Richard was interviewed. For those interested in learning more about this 'A List Actor' who is an honest, straightforward, and sincere man. I provide a link. « click on this link » Onwards into the future.

Saturday 20/11/2022: As the football World Cup is about to start a news item on Maradona's 'Hand of God' World Cup ball has been published. The ball has sold for $2.4M. punched in by Diego Maradona for his "Hand of God" goal at the 1986 World Cup and sold by the referee who missed soccer's most famous handball. Ali Bin Nasser, the Tunisian former match official who refereed the quarterfinal game between Argentina and England in Mexico, owned the 36-year-old Adidas ball. Bin Nasser said before the auction he felt it was the right time to share the item with the world and expressed hope the buyer would put it on public display. The Maradona goal that gave Argentina a 1-0 lead in that match against England has become part of soccer legend. Maradona jumped as if to head the ball but instead punched it past England goalkeeper Peter Shilton. Maradona quipped afterward that it was scored "a little with the head of Maradona and a little with the hand of God," leading to its iconic name. Speaking ahead of the auction, Bin Nasser said: "I couldn't see the incident clearly. The two players, Shilton and Maradona, were facing me from behind. "As per FIFA's instructions issued before the tournament, I looked to my linesman for confirmation of the validity of the goal — he made his way back to the halfway line indicating he was satisfied that the goal should stand. At the end of the match, the England head coach Bobby Robson said to me, 'You did a good job, but the linesman was irresponsible.' Maradona scored a brilliant second goal against England only four minutes later with the same ball — the only one used in the quarterfinal. He ran nearly 70 meters from his own half and weaved his way past half the England team before slipping the ball past Shilton to make it 2-0. That goal was voted the World Cup Goal of the Century in 2002.


Apple pie and dumplings Best to all. Spencer

Just Passed MOT DAY BY DAY

Wednesday 26/10/2022: Sorry for delay up-loading this log, some minor tech issues.

Just to open this entry thought I would mention that a 'state of the art' vehicle passed me by yesterday 'when all my troubles seemed so far away' travelling at a rate of 'gaknots'. The driver said it had just passed its MOT so was taking it for a spin!!! He was dressed as Batman and his son was Robin. Nothing unusual then!!

Mayan Codex Friday 28/10/2022: A precious piece of Mexico heritage is now on show at the Guggenheim Museum in New York which is a Maya screen fold codex manuscript of a pre-Columbian type. Long known as the Grolier Codex or Sáenz Codex, in 2018 it was officially renamed the Códice Maya de México by the National Institute of Anthropology and History of Mexico. It is one of only four known extant Maya codices, and the only one that still resides in the Americas. It is an almanac that charts the movements of the planet Venus, and originally consisted of twenty pages; the first eight and the last two are now missing. The red frame lines at the bottom of pages four to eight indicate that the dimensions were once substantially taller, and that the scribe prepared a space for some text under the figure on each page. The document dates to the period between 1021 and 1154 CE. and is the oldest surviving codex from Mexico and the oldest book of the Americas. The codex is said to have been found enclosed in a wooden box in a dry cave in the highlands of Chiapas, along with a turquoise mask. Have a look at the codex by « clicking onto this link »

Dead ParadeTuesday 01/11/2022: Many of you will have seen the Bond film 'Spectre' which opens with an amazing tracking shot of 007 amidst the Day of the Dead festival crowds. Just under a year ago Cathy and I were also involved in the Day of the Dead celebrations that take place in late October and early November, the living remember, and honour their dearly departed, but with joy — not sorrow. In 2016, the government started a popular annual parade in Mexico City that concludes in a main square featuring altars built by artisans from across the country. The roughly three-hour-long affair features one of the holiday's most iconic characters, Catrinas. The female skeleton is dressed in elegant clothes inspired by the engravings of José Guadalupe Posada, a Mexican artist who drew satirical cartoons at the beginning of the 20th century.

Marigolds decorate the streets as music blares from speakers. Adults and children alike dress as skeletons and take photos, recording the annual festivities. It is believed that during the Day of the Dead - or Dia de Muertos - relatives are able to commune with their deceased loved ones. Typically, it is an intimate family tradition observed with home altars and visits to local cemeteries to decorate graves with flowers and sugar skulls. They take their deceased loved ones' favourite food and hire musicians to perform their favourite songs. Please click on the links for the opening of the Bond film and if you wonder why it costs millions to make a hit movie click on the second reference. Halloween needs a makeover!!

« Spectre: Mexico Dia de Muertos Set Behind the Scenes - Costumes, Make-up | ScreenSlam »

« Spectre: Day Of The Dead Celebrations »

Texas Brown Tarantula Friday 04/11/2022: Those of you who have followed my log over the years will know that one of my favourite creatures are tarantulas!! Joke!! But they seem to keep skittering into my path. Pic of one in my previous log. Just learnt that the city of La Junta in Colorado is hoping to be given the title of 'tarantula city of the world'. The home where tarantulas roam. During the mating season thousands crawl across the town's streets and fields. They are known as Texas Browns, or Oklahomas, and grow to five inches long. Because many are killed by vehicles they now have tunnels and bridges to cross but it is difficult to direct them to these safe passing spots. The Mayor wants to encourage more tourists to join in a tarantula themed festival and to savour a tarantula burger. Any arachnid lovers want to sign up for the treat?

Soup Of The DayCommemoration Sunday 06/11/2022: Thirteen years ago today I left the UK to circumnavigate Africa. I have clocked up 200 000 plus kilometres and 136 countries. (Other bikes I had don't count), I have eaten some dodgy food including dog in Borneo (I didn't know), Guinea Pig in Peru, snake in Congo, cow cheek in Nigeria, worms, scorpions, spiders and the list goes on. My favourite travelling food is chicken foot soup and sardines.

Top week to you all. Cathy Nel is back from Ireland, yay, so on the road soon. Peace, love and curried goat's testicles for all. Thanks to you for following me for so long here at spencer-conway.com and following me on Instagram at spencer_james_conway.


THE NEXT EPISODE 2

Saturday 15/10/2022: Just to keep you all up-to-date with what's happening. Cathy back next week and will finally take a trip to write some articles. You may have noticed that I have not written many for a couple of years. I was too focussed on my books. I just wanted to thank everybody for following this log since 2009 when I left for Africa. I will continue posting historical, geographical and biker stories as well as the quirky.

TarantulaI am at present in a tropical storm so I am holed up in my room in México, writing two books simultaneously, one on Central America and México. The other book is a surprise, which I hope will shock, enthral and challenge. So keep following the log and we will post some shots from the road. I am also planning on visiting the UK in May for three months. I will be touring and doing talks. I will post the venues closer to the time. Of course I will be at the ABR Festival on the 23rd of June. I have three cats and a crab in my room, keeping me company in the storm. On to next chapter.... Peace and respect. As my book on South America is available as a paperback and on Kindle, two versions, I include an extract from the chapter 'Tarantulas, Cane Toads and Hell Town'...

The Amazon and the BR319 had ticked all the boxes I loved; remoteness, tough riding, pristine jungle, no people, and incredible animals. Although I am from Africa, and devoured books on African explorers, I also had an obsession with the Amazon. I read and re-read Percy Fawcett's diaries. The unforgiving Amazon has claimed the lives of many adventurers, but perhaps none so famous as Colonel Percy Fawcett, who disappeared in 1925, while on the trail of a mythical Lost City. One of the most colourful figures of his era, Fawcett had made his name during a series of harrowing, but ground-breaking, mapmaking expeditions to the wilds of Brazil and Bolivia. During these travels, he formulated a theory about the lost city of Z (which recently was made into a brilliant film), which he believed existed somewhere in the unexplored Mato Grosso region of Brazil.

The Lost City Of Z In 1925 Fawcett, his sixteen year old son, Jack, and a young man called Raleigh Rimmel, set off in search of the fabled lost city. But following a letter in which Fawcett announced he was venturing into unmapped territory, the group vanished without a trace. While conventional wisdom suggests the explorers were killed by hostile Indians, other theories blame everything from malaria, to starvation, to jaguar attacks. All are a possibility for their demise, which makes the Amazon so dangerous, yet so exciting. Some have even speculated that the men simply went local, and lived out the rest of their lives happily in the jungle. This is my favourite theory, but seems doubtful, considering Fawcett's love for his wife, Nina. Whatever the cause, the groups disappearance, captured the imagination of people around the world. In the years since Fawcett disappeared, thousands of would be adventurers have mounted exploratory missions. As many as one hundred people have died while searching for some sign of Fawcett, or the city of gold, in the darkness of the Amazon. Some may have had encounters with tarantulas from which there is no escape in the jungle!


Burial Of The DeadMonday 17/10/2022: I always like to include some interesting features on recent hypotheses that might be of interest and that are related to current events. I have discussed before the outbreak of Covid around the world but we have had similar epidemics before. The Plague, or Y. pestis. DNA in the teeth of individuals from an ancient Central Asian cemetery, who died in 1338 from an unspecified "pestilence'' has been analysed. Comparisons of DNA to modern and historic samples of Y. pestis indicate that the Central Asian people perished from a version of the plague bacterium that wreaked havoc in Europe, the Middle East and northern Africa until the early 1800s. Origins of the Black Death, or bubonic plague, have long been debated. What's certain is that Y. pestis is transmitted to humans by fleas that live on rodents. One current proposal holds that the plague originated in East Asia and was carried across the continent starting in the 1200s as the Mongol Empire expanded. That scenario is based on genetic evidence from European Black Death victims and written accounts of an unidentified plague outbreak encountered by Mongol invaders of Baghdad in the 1200s. It is likely that armies, travellers and merchants moving along trade routes from Asia brought the plague into Europe. Specifically, historians have speculated that the fleas on rats are responsible for the estimated 25 million plague deaths between 1347 and 1351. However, a new study suggests that rats weren't the main carriers of fleas and lice that spread the plague—it was humans. Always the most deadly of creatures.

Cat And Catnip Wednesday 19/10/2022: As I have three rescue cats I've decided to include some info that might interest them seeing as they are intelligent and also frequently run around in mad moments of activity. For many cats, a mere whiff of catnip, a plant of the mint family, with downy leaves, purple-spotted white flowers, and a pungent smell attractive to cats, can send them into a licking, rolling, plant-shredding frenzy. That destruction amplifies catnip's natural defences against insects and hence its appeal to cats. Compared with intact leaves, crushed-up leaves emit more volatile compounds called iridoids, which act as an insect repellent. The higher emissions also seem to encourage cats to continue rolling around in the remains of the psilver vine (Actinidia polygama), a plant common in Asia that has a similar euphoric effect on cats. As cats chew catnip or vine the damaged leaves release about ten times more iridoids than intact leaves do, and also changes the proportion of the chemicals released. The catnip, when crushed, releases more of its insect repellent so cats coat themselves in a natural insect defence!! I will look for the plant and try some as I attract insects. Could save me from nasty wasp stings. Might also keep Cathy away!!!

Always Wear A Helmet Friday 21/10/2022: As most of you know I have had close encounters with very scary situations, shot at in Kenya by Shifta bandits, when my bike was hit and had to hide in the bush. In South America, along with Cathy, held hostage by life threatening kidnappers in Panama so always best to be aware of the dangers and take precautions. Sensible, like the dude in the photo here.

Sunday 23/10/2022: Lastly, thought I would include a couple of pics of my new Tenere just to prove that I do ride sometimes. As you will see I have fitted an additional bra-king system to be deployed in case of emergencies. Also biking friend Kevin Thomas, of Dakar fame, has a Tenere and has recently sent me a crit of my book for which I thank him. He is with friends on the right of the pic during a break in the desert riding. My plan for the coming months is to complete two books, get back to writing magazine articles and to continue with the log. Will be attending shows next year in the UK and plan to produce videos for YouTube. Fingers crossed. Going in search of catnip. Stay safe everyone. Spencer

New Tenere

WHEN IN MEXICO!!

Saturday 01/10/2022: Another Month and still in Mexico but life is never dull here. Recently Mexico's indigenous communities took to the streets of the capital to celebrate their heritage and demand more rights. The Mexico City march marked the United Nation's Day of the World Indigenous Peoples and they wore traditional clothing as they marched down Reforma Avenue in the city's centre. Among those taking part were indigenous groups from the south-western state of Oaxaca, where I am, such as Triqui, Mazatec and Zapotec, as well as groups from southern Chiapas State, as the Tzetal. The reason behind the parade was to give visibility to the many indigenous people living in the capital and to combat discrimination.

Devil MasksThe day also is marked by traditional dances which date back to the times of the Spanish conquest of Mexico, when Spanish priests tried to convert the indigenous Mixtec people to Catholicism. Organised dances represent events in Spanish history which had a strong religious significance, such as the battles to regain control of Spain from the Moors and impose Christianity. A mock battle shows the fighters for Christianity, led by Saint James, defeating their Muslim rivals. A dancer representing an injured Moor is given the choice to convert to Christianity. He refuses, saying he would rather be taken away by devils than betray his religion. It is then the dancers dressed as devils enter the stage and drag him away. Stand by your convictions at all costs!

Tuesday 04/10/2022: Have in the past shown some photos of street art that can be found in many towns in Mexico and the colourful, attractive sights that can be seen in South America. Here are a couple of examples which tie in with the next item in this log.

Colourful MexicoThursday 06/10/2022: Highly skilled artists change dull streets in to bright vistas of light and joy by their work as muralists in Mexico but at a different level is that of the artist known as Banksy. Why mention this English practitioner here? Well simply because there is an exhibition featuring more than 150 works by the elusive street artist in Mexico City. The Art of Banksy "Without Limits" exhibition, which is not authorized by the artist, has previously been shown in several countries including the United States, Australia, Chile, South Korea, Germany and Turkey. It has original works, prints on different kinds of materials, photos, sculptures, murals and installations.

Shop Til You Drop The reason why Banksy is so high profile is that his identity is not widely known and the fact that his work appears overnight on walls in many parts of the world. Also he is recognised for his whimsical and political street art, which adds to his enigmatic murals. Banksy is a political activist and film director whose real name and identity remain 'unconfirmed', actually it is known if you check out Wikipedia! Active since the 1990s, his satirical street art and subversive epigrams combine dark humour with graffiti executed in a distinctive stencilling technique. Banksy's work grew out of the Bristol underground scene, which involved collaborations between artists and musicians. He has 11 million social media followers. If you are looking for colour it's not Banksy!! The example of his art here 'Shop until you Drop' is a satire on consumerism. Check out www.theartofbanksy.com if you want to read about 'Who is Banksy?'

Saturday 08/10/2022: In modern culture we cannot escape the fact that the role of women has changed, and is still changing, around the world. In literature, film and TV we have strong liberated women who take on leadership roles and that of heroines. The 16th century Scottish Presbyterian, John Knox, was against 'the monstrous regiment of women' and gained wide support for his views. Today he would not survive long. Probably be strung-up by breeks, if he wore any under his cassock? What about 'Wonder Woman' and the like? Well in Mexico there was one such called La Carambada, Leonarda Martínez, a highway robber who, after carrying out her deeds, dressed as a man, uncovered her breasts to show her victims, amid laughter, that it was a woman who had overcome and outwitted them.

La CarambadaShe had quite a career and became well known as a fighter for women's liberation. As myth, perhaps, she had a young lover who was arrested and imprisoned and shot. She became enflamed with resentment and turned her wrath on the powerful of the time in the year 1872. She seduced her way into the company of Benito Juárez, the President and "la Carambada" 'They say, poured a few drops of a powerful poison derived from the leaves of blackjack (Asclepias linaria )' into his drink. The potion took effect just twenty-one days after being ingested. Well, history records that as fact, twenty-one days after that meeting, on July 18, 1872, President Juárez ceased to exist due to an attack of angina pectoris. It's up to you how much you take this as the truth the whole truth and nothing........!

Tiger BeetleNow if you want another perspective of the 'bandit' « click on this link »

Monday 10/10/2022: Always interested in what is happening in the 'creative' world and just had a look at some of the photos in the 2022 Nikon Small World photomicrography competition. This one by Murat Öztürk of Ankara, Turkey, is an astounding — and unnerving — snapshot of a tiger beetle using its mandibles to crush a fly by its eyes. Tiger beetles (Cicindelinae) sprint after their prey so quickly that the insects go temporarily blind. The photographed beetle would have stopped multiple times to orient itself to figure out where the fly was, eventually snatching its meal. Thanks to the beetle's strong and sharp jaws the chances of survival of the creatures caught by this insect are very low. Super, super photo which took perseverance and skill to achieve.

PelotaThursday 13/10/2022: Some, or many of you may know of the game of Pelota, still practised today in some parts of the world but research has revealed that some Maya rulers may have been incinerated and their ashes mixed with rubber to make the balls used in the game. Burnt human remains uncovered at the ruins of a Maya city have led to a new theory about the death rites of the ancient civilisation. An archaeologist Juan Yadeun Angulo found urns containing human ashes, rubber and roots at a Maya temple in Mexico and other archaeologists found 400 urns containing the mixture of human ashes, coal, rubber and plant roots at the Toniná archaeological site, an impressive complex built on a hill in the jungle of Chiapas. Among the constructions preserved to this day is the sunken ball court where the Maya played pelota. A carved stone disc found at Chiapas depicts the huge size of the pelota ball in the 6th Century and how players propelled it with their hips.

Escondido Beach« You'll find out more about the game here »

Friday 14/10/2022: Finally, just to prove I am still in Escondido a photo of the beach where I take my 8K walk each morning, watching out for crocodiles!! Pelota balls to all. Cathy will be back in Mexico soon. Spencer.

ROUND AND ABOUT

Hurricane Sign Sunday 18/09/2022: As previously reported Mexico is prone to earthquakes so tomorrow an earthquake drill will be held in Mexico City and eight states on the fifth anniversary of a powerful 7.1 magnitude tremor that shook central Mexico and the 37th anniversary of an 8.1 magnitude quake that devastated the capital. The National Disaster Prevention centre advises citizens to prepare a "family civil protection plan" for earthquakes, organize and participate in evacuation drills and "identify safe areas" in their homes, schools and workplaces. Amongst other advice, it encourages citizens to prepare an "emergency backpack" with items such as a torch, first aid kit, two-way radio, water, non-perishable food, warm clothing, medications and photocopies of important documents. During earthquakes, citizens are advised to remain calm and move away from objects, buildings, trees and electrical posts that could fall. Those who live near the ocean should move inland from the coast due to the risk of tsunamis. That's ME!!

Killer Quake Tuesday 20/09/2022: First the drill then the earthquake!! Can you believe it?

Less than an hour after the nationwide earthquake drill, a 7.7 magnitude earthquake shook the centre of the country. The epicentre was 63 kilometres south of Coalcomán, Michoacán, and the quake was felt in Mexico City. The timing of the tremors – midday on September 19 – evoked memories of the 1985 and 2017 earthquakes, which both occurred on September 19 as well. The 1985 earthquake killed more than 10,000 people, and hundreds died in 2017. Early reports indicate that the quake did not cause any significant physical damage in the capital, though power went out in some areas. Escondido had high winds and rough seas. «This video of the 1985 quake has some distressing images and is 25 minutes long. Just a warning!»

Thursday 22/09/2022: Now to something more calming, Cacao — from which chocolate is made — was sacred to the ancient Maya, and was consumed in rituals and used as a currency. New evidence has been found to suggest that cacao, long thought to be only for the elite, was probably also imbibed by a wider Mayan population. As in Europe tea drinking was once only for the rich as it was very expensive to import from India and China.

Cacao ritualThe cacao tree, Theobroma cacao, was linked to Hun Hunahpu, the maize god. Previous research found cacao in ceremonial vessels and elite burials, suggesting that its use was restricted to those at the top. Now 54 ceramic shards dating from A.D. 600 to 900 from jars, mixing bowls, serving plates and vases thought to be drinking vessels have been found in residential and ceremonial civic areas of varying sizes and status from city centres, foothills, upland areas and the valley around the former Maya city of El Pilar, on the present-day border of Guatemala and Belize. Have a 'chocolat' on me.

Mask Of Mexico Saturday 24/09/2022: Good to learn that Mexican artefacts have been repatriated and among them, and most notable, an urn of Zapotec origin that was made between A.D. 600 and A.D. 900 and column fragments taken from a palace in the Santa Rosa Xtampak archaeological site in Campeche. The items in this recent batch were given to Mexico voluntarily by citizens of Austria, Canada, Sweden and the United States. They were handed over to Mexican embassies and consulates abroad as part of MiPatrimonioNoSeVende ("my heritage is not for sale") campaign, an effort to recover historical items that were stolen from Mexico or somehow ended up in foreign lands. This mask, which Christie's auction house said came from the Mexican pre-Hispanic site of Teotihuacán, sold in February 2021 for US $437,000. So far, nearly 9,000 pieces have been recovered over the past three years. Let's hope they are housed in secure museums for all to see.

Sunday25/09/2022: My father ran in the Great Bristol 10k this morning for the England Athletics team along with 8000 other runners, men and women, from Bristol and beyond. ~There were over 70 other runners for the England team competing in Master's five year age groups from 35, 35-40, 40-45 and so on. The course was through Bristol on a roughly circular route over the Avon on the way out and then back over on the return. Jazz Bands and singers along the way and hundreds of spectators. There was also a children's run and half-marathon with 70000 participants. My father was first in his age group and received a trophy, medal and other mementoes. Well done Patria!!

Dad Running B MastersMonday 26/09/2022: Post from the Great Bristol Run web site: "Hi Michael, Congrats on a fine run in the Bristol 10k. We hope you've still got that post-event buzz and have had a chance to recover. We still get goose bumps thinking about how you and thousands of other runners smashed the 10k and half marathon courses with determination and resilience." «Have a look at the video of the event for a taster»

Also today NASA's DART spacecraft was launched. The craft hurtled into Dimorphos, an asteroid moonlet orbiting a larger space rock named Didymos. The mission's goal was to bump Dimorphos slightly closer to its parent asteroid, shortening its 12-hour orbit around Didymos by several minutes. The Double Asteroid Redirection Test, or DART, is the world's first attempt to change an asteroid's motion by ramming a space probe into it. Neither Dimorphos nor Didymos poses a threat to Earth but seeing how well DART's collision works will reveal how easy it is to tamper with an asteroid's trajectory — a strategy that could protect the planet if a large asteroid is ever discovered on a course with Earth. "We don't know of any large asteroids that would be considered a threat to Earth that are coming any time in the next century," says DART team member Angela Stickle, a planetary scientist at the Johns Hopkins University Applied Physics Laboratory in Laurel, Md. "The reason that we are doing something like DART is because there are asteroids that we haven't discovered yet." After a 10-month voyage, DART met up with Didymos and Dimorphos near their closest approach to Earth, about 11 million kilometres away. Up until the very end of its journey, DART could see only the larger asteroid, Didymos. But about an hour before impact, DART spotted Dimorphos in its field of view. Using it's on board camera, the spacecraft steered itself toward the asteroid moonlet and slammed into it at some 6.1 kilometres per second, or nearly 14,000 miles per hour. Anything on Dimorphos, dinosaurs for example, would not have survived!!! «View orbital effect of DART's impact on Dimorphos on You Tube»

Wednesday 28/09/2022: OK, more weather news. Hurricane Blas has formed off the Pacific coast with maximum sustained winds increasing to near 85 mph (140 kph) with higher gusts on the way. Additional strengthening is forecast during the next 24 hours followed by gradual weakening through the end of the week. There are no coastal watches or warnings in effect, but swells generated by Blas are affecting the coast of southwestern Mexico and are likely to continue over the next several days. These swells are likely to cause life-threatening surf and rip current conditions. We are not in the zone for this hurricane but more are forecast which might cause considerable damage.

Friendly Neighbours Friday 30/09/2022: Hurricane Blas only minor compared with Hurricane Ian which has caused many deaths and extensive damage in Florida. I have friends there who have lost their home, but survived. Take care buddies and I will be in contact. Nature is uncontrollable as you will see on the video...

«Hurricane Ian lays waste to Florida»

My neighbour just stabbed someone. His brother was threatened so I persuaded him to go in the bathroom. Neighbours beat him badly before police came. Just like Africa. Had to stop them, which I did. Pic is of 'peaceful' confrontation!!

End of this log on a down note. Keep safe everybody. Best Spencer. Cathy is in Ireland.


Motorcycle Babe THE NEXT EPISODE

Thursday 08/09/2022: News of the death Of Queen Elizabeth 11 has been announced so just to say that I sympathise with members of the Royal Family and join in condolences along with many others in the UK and around the world. Now the start of a new era with King Charles III and hope that His reign will be beneficial to all. The Queen was a motorbike enthusiast and could dismantle and rebuild bikes. Not a lot of people know that.

Meeting Prince CharlesAlso Prince Charles, as he was known, had a chat with my parents when we lived in Eswatini whilst he was on a state visit. My father, sporting a beard, and mother gazing admiringly at the Prince when he commented on my mother's hat!! Won't say what he said.

Saturday 10/09/2022: Now to things Mexican. A celebration that some believe dates back to the indigenous veneration of Xochiquetzalli, the goddess of flowers and fertility, now dedicated to the Catholic Virgin of Charity.is being celebrated in the city of Huamantla. Artisans spend all night and in some cases, days or weeks, creating intricate designs with coloured sawdust, seeds, flower petals, and sand that carpet the city's streets in anticipation of the miles-long procession that begins at the end of midnight Mass. The festival is called La Noche que Nadie Duerme or the Night When No One Sleeps because residents and visitors are up all night following the statue of the virgin carried above these colourful designs in a procession that takes over nine hours to complete. The parade stops at various temples throughout the city, until the virgin is returned to her sanctuary in the early hours of the morning.

Flowered Sawdust CarpetThis year the city broke the Guinness World Record for the world's longest sawdust carpet, nearly 4 kilometres long and created by 240 artisans with 80 tonnes of coloured sawdust. The record was previously held by Guatemala City with a carpet just over 2 kilometres long. Visitors come from around the country and the world to witness the massive work of collective art. The designs incorporate flowers, religious motifs, geometric shapes, and some intricate images of the virgin herself. Some of the most complex designs are created in the atrium of the Basilica of Our Lady of Charity where the statue of the virgin resides for most of the year.

Sunday 11/09/2022: Many of us love dogs and have them as pets and companions but when did they become 'man's best friend?'

Feaya's Dog In Tom Edison's 'Shaggy Dog', a short story by Kurt Vonnegut, Thomas Edison discovers that dogs are intellectually superior beings. They're so smart, in fact, that the canines found the easiest possible way to survive: endearing themselves to humans. When Edison confronts his own dog about this revelation, the dog says, "Look, Mr. Edison. Why not keep quiet about this? It's been working out to everybody's satisfaction for hundreds of thousands of years. Let sleeping dogs lie." My daughter, Feaya, has a dog and the family has had many in the past.

It's true that humankind's close relationship with canines spans millennia. This long-term interspecies friendship is a topic of scientific study, though where, when and even why it began remains murky. Scientists have had to rely on archaeological and genetic evidence for clues. But the similarities between wolves and early domesticated dogs can make it challenging for researchers to tell them apart. In the earliest days, before wolves were fully domesticated, perhaps the most notable difference is simply the animals' involvement with people. Several myths link dogs with the afterlife. Versions of these stories are found in many cultural regions around the world.

Hand FullIn ancient Greek mythology, Hercules captures Cerberus, the three-headed dog that guards the gate to the underworld. Myths like this might shed light on the history of dog domestication. Folktales about dogs stemmed from Central and Eastern Asia and spread to Europe, the Americas and later Australia and Africa. This mythological travel route parallels a proposed path of dog domestication borne out by genetic and fossil evidence. But when did we start calling our dogs Rover, Millie or Pepper we do not know!! Or 'Stop that!' or 'Come here!' «Click this link» for the most popular dog's names some of which I find bizarre.

As mentioned in a previous log, turtles have now arrived locally for nesting and more than 92,000 Olive Ridley turtles are on the beaches of Oaxaca. The Mexican Turtle Centre, which operates under the National Commission of Natural Protected Areas confirmed the arrival of the turtles at La Escobilla beach between Puerto Escondido and Huatulco. The massive arrival of the female turtle marks the official start of the nesting season for the Olive Ridley sea turtle in the Mexican Pacific. Marine turtle experts expect that the one and a half million arrivals reported last year will be exceeded. Super for these sea creatures.

Personal News

Have recently been interviewed on Adventure Rider Radio by Jim Martin, great man and expert presenter, and I attach a link to the programme which you can find on his site. A long interview which covers several incidents in my book and other happenings!! «Listen» Also a recent crit from Traverse Magazine...

Crit From Traverse Magazine

That's all. Change the way you look at things and the things you look at change. Soak up life and enjoy. After an oíl change on the Tenere, time for a dip in the Oaxacan ocean.

Peace, love, respect and shellfish from me and camerawoman Cathy

OUT AND ABOUT

Wednesday 31/08/2022: This log entry does not contain dates as there are no day to day activities to report.

Where Have I Been? It has been sometime since my last Log so I start with an update on things personal. My new book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' is available as a paperback on Amazon and very recently is now in Kindle store as an e book which can be downloaded to all electronic outlets, for example to tablets and i phones. This can be purchased world-wide and once located by Googling the title and Spencer Conway in Kindle Store one can click on a country ref to learn the price e.g. US or UK etc.

For those of you who are hesitating to buy my book I include a short extract which may help you to decide. My book is focussed on my experiences in the fascinating continent of South America and should appeal to those interested in the culture and history of the people who inhabit this vast country.

Crossing Borders

I had an Egyptian border guard who pretended to be two completely different people, simply by donning a hat and pair of glasses. He came round the building and through another door. Hey presto, a brand-new official. He even kept up the pretence of having never met me, five minutes earlier, even though I was in a fit of giggles. He knew he had been rumbled, got annoyed and flushed, but could not falter. Brilliant!

In the Democratic Republic of Congo, I macheted my way through the centre of the country. When I came to a clearing, finally, the Custom's Officer had not seen a tourist in three years. I was well proud. His official stamp had even dried up, so he wrote, 'Spencer James Conway entered legally', with his signature underneath. It worked. I will never get rid of that passport.

Ibarra Street I have had customs who were too drunk to serve me, others who have predicted my imminent death. In Senegal my welcome by the Custom's Officer began with, "If you go to Mauritania you will die, fast. We in Senegal are nice, but there, you are to be killed!".

I have been arrested and locked up by customs, have stayed at Custom's Officers' houses, been offered drugs by them, and even escaped an attempted kidnapping in Panama by fake officers. A DCF Custom's officer in Venezuela, who was a member of a bike club, showed me a dodgy route into Colombia, after we waited in vain to clear the bike through legally. We didn't take that option. So, for me, customs are never boring and Peru was about to throw in two more classic characters.


For more click on this link > Spencer Conway's South America Motorcycle Diaries / Snippet 4

Now to some interesting facts about areas of Mexico we have visited some of which are not far from Escondido where we live.

Vintage Canoes Mayan Mariners

The ancient Mayas are widely known for their achievements in architecture and astronomy but are perhaps less known for their commercial and seafaring skills. But the archaeological site at Oxtankah's reveals how its inhabitants used marine resources for economic purposes. The Maya of Oxtankah were skilled sailors. The National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) states they used canoes to access the Caribbean Sea for trading. They supplied products to interior Maya communities. Oxtankah was occupied from about 600 B.C. to A.D. 1100, peaking around A.D. 200–600. At that point, the city had over 100 buildings and included even the Tamalcab island off the coast. The Maya inhabitants built a water system here with chultunes – ancient water cisterns – to store rainwater. Its economy was diverse: in addition to making use of marine resources, it produced salt and engaged in agriculture and beekeeping.

Mayan Shaman Don't Look Now

All civilisations have their own superstitions, some of which are universal, and recently in Cocoyoc residents have been prone to an outbreak of a threatening and frightening visits of a nahual, whose name comes from a Náhuatl word used to describe the purported ability of individuals to transform into animals or natural phenomena, and believed to use its power for either good or evil depending on its personality. Residents in the area paint homes with crosses to ward off feared 'Beasts'. Some say they began hearing strange noises in the early hours of the morning two weeks ago. As they couldn't attribute the noises to an animal or any other source, they concluded they were made by a nahual. Cocoyoc is a cultural stronghold where until relatively recently there were still practices of magic by traditional healers. Another town where fear of the nagual overtook residents is Soledad del Doblado, where men, women and children armed with rocks, shovels and guns ventured out of their homes in an attempt to kill or drive away the mythical creature. Strange but similar noises echoing around our village!!

Dancer Of Monte Alban The Tourist Site of Monte Alban

The Monte Albán ruins sit on a flattened hilltop in the Valley of Oaxaca, about 9 kilometers (5.5 miles) west of the city of Oaxaca. The site on which it stands has been occupied for over 1,500 years by various groups; first Olmecs and then the Zapotecs and Mixtecs. The Zapotecs built the city, which for over 1,000 years was one of the most important in all of Mesoamerica.

Happy ChappyOlmecs were the first to occupy the site and may have carved some of the stones known as Los Danzantes (The Dancers). That civilization influenced their depictions, since some of the faces have distinctive Olmec traits, such as large heads and thick lips. It's generally agreed that the Zapotecs arrived around 500 B.C. At that time, another Zapotec city now known as San José Mogote was the largest city in the valley.

Lastly yesterday had an long interview with Jim Martin on Adventure Rider Radio in the States. Link to follow...

SpaghettiPeanuts and nahuals to you. Love from Cathy and Spencer


Bike In Bajale WHERE TO?

Tuesday 19/07/2022: Have been riding south for a couple of days to ensure my recently purchased Tenere is as good as my old bike. It is. Even better. Should be able to continue circumnavigation after deciding what to do. Not sure as finances stretched so some serious thinking necessary. However keep going as there are problems throughout life.

Thursday 21/07/2022: My dog, Millie, a Border Collie who I have mentioned before, highly intelligent and sympathetic seemed to know when I was returning from a run or walk and this is probably because dogs are great 'sniffers'. As a previous log pointed out how dogs are able to identify symptoms of coronavirus scientists have found that dogs have a nose-to-brain connection which explains why they are expert sniffers.

MillieTheir noses hold between 200 million and 1 billion odour molecule sensors, compared with the 5 million receptors estimated to dwell in a human nose. And dogs' olfactory bulbs can be up to 30 times larger than people's. This fact enables dogs to track very small traces of odour through a variety of urban areas and landscapes. If dogs are taken to a location far from home they are able to trace their way back over a route previously walked.

Sunday 24/07/2022: As some of you may know I am allergic to the stings of several insects which has resulted in hospitalisation through anaphylactic shock. Now there is a new threat, so called 'murder hornets'. These deadly flying hunters, in raiding parties of several dozen Asian giant hornets, can kill whole hives containing thousands of bees in a few hours. The mandarinia is a fierce predator as workers band together in unique group-foraging raids. Several dozen attack targets, such as whole nests of honeybees, other species of hornets, and yellow jackets.

HornetPalm LandThe giant hornets slaughter and then carry back the bodies as food for their larvae. Raiding parties literally leave heaps of headless honeybees around a hive during a takeover to steal the young. Researchers have found that just one full sting would have a 50 percent chance of killing a decent-sized (270-gram) rodent. Though very painful 10 times more so is the sting of bullet ants. I have experience both and I can vouch for the severely painful bite of the ant!!

Tuesday 26/07/2022: Been out in the 'bush' today. Excuse the Africanism! Good to be out on the bike but keeping a lookout for giant hornets. Some difficult terrain and testing new gear from sponsors. All OK. Still no definite plans for future.

Saturday 30/07/2022: Some good news is that 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' is now available on several outlets including YoubyYou books and on Amazon Print on Demand in the States and on Kindle. To locate : Go to Kindle store in Google and in title bar type 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' Click and this takes you to details for purchase. It will be registered in US Dollars as it is internationally available but does not stop ordering in the UK.

Hope you enjoy and banana leaf soup. Very delish. Best Spencer

The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat - Out Now!

X Marks The Spot I leave you with a short extract from the book from the Chapter 'Barrio of no Return'...

“The Barrio, I was to discover was full of naked, and semi-naked women and men, and a mix of the two genders. I suppose it leaves you with no doubt about what you are paying for; you see what you get. Despite spending nearly ten days in the Barrio, I never got used to the nakedness, next to someone in a suit and with a briefcase. I don't think that you would get away with it at a Tunbridge Wells bus stop, and anyway, it would be way too cold. All the vital parts would freeze.”

That's all Bike and Xit!!

< Check photo archive for some recent pics >

BACK IN MEXICO

Green Iguana Tuesday 05/07/2022: Eventually arrived back in Mexico after long delay from Mexico City to Escondido. Nothing much has changed except that Cathy is increasing the size of our menagerie. We now have three cats, a chicken, a crab and an iguana!! Not the most endearing of pets. Plus me now.

Thursday 07/07/2022: Back on my newly acquired Tenere and eager to get on the road but have to organise and plan before we set off. Also Cathy has shingles, very painful and I have raging tooth ache so not auspicious for rough riding. I have learned of an experimental method of pain relief which we both need at the moment. This is a flexible electronic implant for pain management created from materials that dissolve in the body, the device encircles nerves with an evaporative cooler. It has been trialled by implanting in rats, the cooler blocked pain signals from zipping up to the brain. Though far from ready for human use, a future version could potentially enable patients to dial up or down the pain relief they need at any given moment.

Fish FingersThink of frozen fingers in the winter. Ranulph Fiennes amputated frozen fingers himself with a hacksaw. But there is much more research needed to use the technique on humans. However it could lead to the relief for sufferers of chronic pain. Don't think I will be pulling out my offending teeth myself, perhaps after freezing with a bag of frozen peas. The fingers pictured are for eating.

Saturday 09/07/2021: Always like to mention items connected to wild-life and nature and this features turtles. Volunteers in Manzanillo, Colima, are gearing up for a busy season collecting turtle's eggs on the beaches in the area. The annual nesting season runs from July to December and during that period in 2021 the Tortugario Manzanillo (Manzanillo Turtle Sanctuary) collected 108,000 eggs from 1,660 nests. This year they expect similar collection numbers. The centre has about 30 volunteers who will begin night watches along the beach starting this weekend. In 2021 they expanded the extension of the beach that they are watching and protecting, which has led to even greater number of eggs retrieved and turtles hatched at their facilities.

David Divert TurtleScientists have shown that sea turtles are important in many ways for healthy oceans, performing roles as varied as maintaining delicate coral reefs to transporting nutrients from the oceans to beaches. Every year thousands of sea turtles come to the shores of Mexico to lay their eggs and then head back into the water to continue their global migration. Of the world's seven species of sea turtles, the most common species on the Manzanillo beaches are the Olive Ridley sea turtles as well as leatherbacks and green sea turtles. Long threatened by poachers, many organizations along Mexico's Pacific coast work to protect turtles and their eggs. Even with the assistance of their human partners, there is only a 1 in 1,000 chance that sea turtles released back into the ocean will survival the perils of their adolescence in the ocean, but if they make it they can live up to 150 years.

Rambutans Sunday 10/07/2022: It is the season for lychees and Rambutans but how did these exotic fruits, native to China, end up in Mexico? In 1900, several hundred Chinese immigrants were given visas to work building Mexico's railways. Their contracts allowed them to stay on, and those that did moved throughout the country. In Sinaloa, they found the climate, soil conditions and altitude to be similar to China, and some took up agriculture - especially fruit-growing. It was these Chinese migrants who introduced the lychee to Mexico. Rambutans, while similar in taste, are the lychee's rather wild-looking cousin, covered with short and flexible red, pink and golden spikes, called spinterns. Inside is the same white globe of sweet flesh as lychees, but with a slightly different flavour. They're grown mostly in the southern states of Chiapas and Oaxaca. One can see cart loads of these fruits in the streets and are very cheap. Pleasant taste, similar to grape, and refreshing.

Power Drug Tuesday 12/07/2022: Onto an aspect of life in Mexico which frequently hits the news headlines. On July 7, the Defence Ministry announced it had seized over half a tonne of fentanyl in powder form from a property in Culiacán, the state capital of Sinaloa. In recent years, most of the clandestine fentanyl labs destroyed by Mexican authorities have been located in Sinaloa. 542 kilograms of fentanyl were seized. Alongside the fentanyl, 555 kilograms of methamphetamine, 31 kilograms of cocaine, 19 kilograms of opium gum, and almost 7 kilograms of heroin were seized. Furthermore, over 70,000 kilograms of chemical precursors and almost 68,000 litres of chemical substances used to make synthetic drugs were also found. Fentanyl is a highly potent opioid and as little as 2 milligrams can be lethal for most users. This means that just 1 kilogram of pure fentanyl could produce around half a million lethal doses. Fentanyl illegally produced in Mexico is commonly mixed with other substances to obtain higher yields in production. Fentanyl, is of course, a powerful pain killer and is used under medical supervision. It can become addictive.

Oaxaca Thursday 14/07/2022: Mexico gets a bad name because of the drug cartels and the human misery that is caused by drugs, especially in the States but the majority of Mexico is drug free and promises a very pleasant life style. In fact, Oaxaca, near to where we live, has been voted the world's best city. It is only small with a little over 250,000 residents and sits among the rugged terrain of the Central Valley region of southwest Mexico. Known for its moles and mezcals, which is a distilled alcoholic beverage made from any type of maguey. The word comes from Nahuatl mexcalli, which means "oven-cooked agave", from metl and ixcalli. Oaxaca has become one of Mexico's most popular destinations in the last decade and not just for visiting as many ex-patriates have decided to live permanently in the city, as many as 20,000. I can vouch for it being a welcoming and attractive place with well-kept, colourful streets and architecturally varied buildings and houses.

Tardigrade Friday 15/07/2022: At risk of turning the log into a science manual some information on a truly amazing minute creature. The tiny tardigrade. It can survive being frozen at -272° Celsius, being exposed to the vacuum of outer space and even being blasted with 500 times the dose of X-rays that would kill a human. The creature can endure conditions that don't even exist on Earth. Researchers are looking to the microscopic animals, about the size of a dust mite, to learn how to prepare humans and crops to handle the rigors of space travel. It lives in cool, wet clumps of moss that hang on a garden wall. But moss frequently dries out and along with it the tardigrade, but as it does so its cells produce several strange proteins that are unlike anything found in other animals. In water, the proteins are floppy and shapeless. But as water disappears, the proteins self-assemble into long, crisscrossing fibres that fill the cell's interior supporting the cell's membranes and proteins, preventing them from breaking or unfolding. At least two species of tardigrade also produce another protein found in no other animal on Earth. This protein, dubbed Dsup, short for "damage suppressor," binds to DNA and may physically shield it from reactive forms of oxygen. The tardigrade survives and regenerates when the moss regains its moisture content. It seems that sci-fiction of freezing humans and bringing them back to life is not so far-fetched.

Hobbit House Sunday17/07/2022: I have remarked many times on the creative talents of Mexican craftsmen and so to end this rather science oriented log something related to art and craft. One enterprising local from Xilitla, Sr Munoz, has been inspired to build "burrow houses," based on homes created by lowland pacas, rodents that live in excavated burrows. Taking advantage of the steep incline on part of his land, with its stunning views of Xilitla below, 'houses' have been dug into the cliff side and then enclosed with a circular front door. The rooms have more than a passing resemblance to the houses of the hobbits of "The Lord of the Rings." In fact, Mexican media simply refers to them as the "hobbit hotel." There are 15 "burrows" built in a span of only six years. All have one or more beds, a fireplace, bathroom, climate control and Wi-Fi, but no television. They have spectacular panoramic views, and the newest overlook an artificial pond with two small waterfalls. Although Muñoz insists the hobbits had nothing to do with the design, he does not mind the comparison, finding it rather amusing. They are by far more appealing than the accommodation Cathy and I have 'endured' on our travels.

SpaghettiThat's all for now and don't forget to look out for my book which is on sale in the UK and can also be purchased from Amazon Print on Demand in the US. Bananas and spaghetti. Cathy and Spencer.


Luna LATEST NEWS AND INFORMATION FROM THE UK

Thursday 16/06/2022: Have been in the UK for several days and super busy catching up with family, friends and sponsors. Whilst in the UK I became a grandfather!! My daughter Jesamine, who lives in Prague, had a baby girl so I include a photo of little Luna who asks not to be woken up. Super happy but makes me feel old!!

Monday 20/06/2022:
Enjoying the metropolis of Biddenden, pop 2000, and beautiful weather throughout. Also a feast of sport on TV which I miss in Mexico. My latest book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' is now published so sales have started. Soon to be on Kindle and Print ON Demand in the US. Can be purchased from YouByYou Books or from Michael Conway, email conwaymonc1@yahoo.com Price £9.99 + postage. Reviews have been excellent so far!!

Super GranOne buyer is Super Gran, Janet, 101 years and still lively and enthusiastic. Has a super caravan to match her superness.

Saturday 25/06/2022: Also caught up with my web designer and good friend who runs the LOG and designed the cover of my book. John Delipps is also a member of a well-known power trio, Freak Flag in the SE area, and plays a mean guitar. Its the way you play it that counts.

Thursday 30/06/2022:
As you may know the Glastonbury Festival of Music was held recently and was headlined by Paul McCartney who spun through a three hour set which included his most well-known compositions. It was a suitable finale to the largest outdoor musical event in the world.

Elana Duran In Mexico City flutist Elena Durán also performed in a concert for Paul McCartney's 80th Birthday on July 14. Duran's parents were from Aguascalientes, Mexico. She has made concerto appearances and recordings with many major orchestras including the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, the English Chamber Orchestra, The Moscow Virtuosi, many orchestras in the U.S. and virtually every orchestra in Mexico. She has also played regularly for members of the British royal family including two televised Royal Galas from the Royal Albert Hall in London. She has twice had the honour of appearing before Queen Elizabeth II. Since the 1990s Duran has been artistic director of the International Flute Festival in Stratford-upon-Avon, the largest annual flute festival in Europe. One of the world's top flutists, she also recorded a hit single with other British 'royalty' - the Beatles' own Paul McCartney, and is putting on the concert to coincide with McCartney's 80th birthday. She played with an orchestra and the programme include some of McCartney's songs.

Wendy In Cats Saturday 02/07/2022: Sorry to say my stay in the UK has come to an end and deeply sad to say good bye to my father, Michael, with whom I have been staying for the month. Had a great time and talked over memories of our lives in Africa, Seychelles and elsewhere. Broken heart still over the death of my mother, Wendy, and miss her daily. Staying with Dad in a house full of mementos brought deep sadness. It will never lessen. Farewell Biddenden, bye Dad, lots of love. Back to Mexico.
Mexico it would break my heart.

< Check photo archive for some recent pics >

NOW IN UK

Millie And Jes Friday 10/06/06 2022: Just off to Sudbury in Suffolk to meet KLIM sponsors and Sam Manicom for the Adventure Bike Shop Show and will report later on this event. Covid is still with us and tests still being carried out to determine if people have coronavirus. Have just learnt that some dogs are being trained to determine if someone has the disease. Dogs are as reliable as laboratory tests for detecting COVID-19 cases, and may be even better than PCR tests for identifying infected people who don't have symptoms. A bonus: The canines are cuter and less invasive than a swab up the nose.

In a study involving sweat samples from 335 people, trained dogs sniffed out 97 percent of the coronavirus cases that had been identified by PCR tests. And the dogs found all 31 COVID-19 cases among 192 people who didn't have symptoms. The results are similar to previous, smaller studies that also found that dogs perform as well as or even better than PCR tests for detecting SARS-CoV-2. Researchers have used dogs at schools, a music festival and in a small trial screening airline employees for coronavirus infections. One of the biggest advantages dogs have over other tests is their speed, as even with a rapid test one has to wait tens of minutes or even hours, where with a dog it is a matter of seconds or even fractions of seconds. I had a Border Collie from a puppy and know how intelligent dogs are. Millie would have been ideal for training. Already on the case as in the photo with Jez.

Hurricane Damge Saturday 11/06/2022: Although now in the UK news from Cathy who has remained in Mexico has told me that an Oaxaca community remains cut off 10 days after hurricane struck with the road washed out, the nearest city is a 15-hour hike away. The citizens of San Mateo Piñas, a town of about 2,000 people, say that because authorities and various government agencies have not done anything to help, they are now asking the federal government to take action, as they are still without sufficient food, drinking water or housing. Don't think Biddenden will be cut off any time soon.

Made it to The Adventure Bike Shop Show and met up with the constantly cheery Sam Manicom as well as Kevin and Julia Sanders of Globebusters. A big thank you to Cliff and Jenny for organising a great Event. It was excellent to meet up with my sponsor KLIM and John Lagerway, who sorted out new kit from head to toe, or from helmet to boots for Cathy and I. Soon we will be sporting all our new stuff in Mexico.

Thanks to all the bikers who came for a chat and to pick up a copy of my new book. Ride safe people.

Biddenden TwinsSunday 12/06/2022: Back in the thriving metropolis of Biddenden after the Rover 75 being towed home all the way from Sudbury!!! Car suffered cam problems. Super AA man who drove faultlessly for nearly three hours to deliver myself and car. Now need to get it to a garage for repairs. Also had news from Sam Manicom that his vehicle collapsed on the motorway on his return to Exeter. Eleven hours to get home!! There is a curse in Sudbury. Avoid.

Monday 13/06/2022: Just thought I would provide some more info on Biddenden and some pics. My parents bought a house in the village in 1980 after leaving Africa and I lived here for a few years after taking a degree at Edinburgh University.

Biddenden Church Biddenden is a village famous as the birthplace of the Biddenden Maids, a pair of Siamese twins who were joined at the hip and shoulder. Marie and Eliza Chulkhurst were born in Biddenden in 1100 and lived here to a respectable age (for that era) of 34. When they died they left 18 acres of land, the income from which was to provide an annual dole of bread and wine to the poor of the parish. This 'Biddenden Dole' is distributed each year on Easter Monday, along with biscuits imprinted with a likeness of the Maids, to anyone who requests it. The Biddenden Maids were quite famous during their lifetimes, and are remembered in the village sign on the small, triangular green. The village High Street is lined with some extremely attractive half-timbered medieval and Jacobean buildings, aligned on either side of a cobbled pavement. Many of these are old weavers cottages, as weaving was the core economic activity of this area of the Weald for many years. This clothing heritage is remembered in the impressive Cloth Hall, just north of the green. The church of All Saints at Biddenden is mainly 13th and 14th century, with a collection of interesting memorial brasses. The funeral for my mother was held in this attractive church.

Cream TeaThat's all for now looking forward to meeting some more friends in the next week. Off for a cream tea. English speciality. Spencer.


OUT OF MEXICO

Wednesday 01/06/2022: Due to leave tomorrow if Hurricane Agatha hasn't grounded flights. Have to check in the morning. Before I leave some very excellent news of a happening in Mexico, a Smoking Ban is going to be introduced prohibiting smoking on beaches and in parks, and stadiums. A presidential decree that would alter the General Law for Tobacco Control and consequently increase regulations on smoking is currently being prepared with the agreement of President López Obrador who has already signed a draft version of the decree, which the Health Ministry sent to the National Commission for Regulatory Improvement for review. The document outlines the government's intention to prohibit smoking in "spaces of collective gathering" for "reasons of public interest and social interest." Such spaces include publicly accessible courtyards, terraces, balconies, amusement parks, playgrounds and other places where children gather, urban parks, sports centres, beaches, stadiums, shopping centres, markets, hotels, hospitals, places of worship, areas where food and beverages are served and public transit stops. If enacted, the decree would also outlaw products that people – especially children – can use to mimic smoking such as candy and chocolate cigarettes. They have also banned electronic cigarettes. In the draft document the President justified the decree by arguing that tobacco addiction is a chronic disease and that 80% of smokers start using tobacco before the age of 18. He pointed out that smoking causes cardiovascular and respiratory illnesses as well as cancer. Citing the expense of treating such illnesses and the loss of human capital in the labour market due to disease and death, López Obrador also said that smoking has an enormous monetary cost. I sincerely hope that this becomes law in Mexico and be a model for other Central American countries.

Hunting SharkLooks like I will be on my way late today. Cathy has decided to stay in Mexico so will be travelling solo once again!! Not on my new Tenere however. But one last piece of info relevant to Mexico. As you know from previous logs Mexico has many species of wildlife both on land and in the coastal seas. It has been discovered that Great white sharks may have helped drive megalodons to extinction in this location. For millions of years, megalodon sharks were top ocean predators — and then came the great whites. New analyses of teeth hint that competition for food from great white sharks may have helped give the megatoothed giants an extra shove toward extinction. Scientists reconstructed shark feeding habits by analyzing zinc in the teeth of 20 living shark species and 13 extinct species, including megalodons (Otodus megalodon). Megalodons and great whites occupied a similar ecological niche, devouring marine mammals such as whales and seals but the megalodons could not compete with the great whites and so slowly died out.

Thursday 02/06/2022: At end of last log I talked about Hurricane Agatha and that it did hit us but the eye of the storm was north of us so decided to risk it and go to the local airport to see if planes were taking off. As stated above Cathy has decided to stay in Mexico so travelling solo. Not a happy journey back to the UK. First leg of trip delayed at airport for three hours and then a turbulent flight for two hours to Mexico City. Bumping about with passengers crying!! Another delay in Mexico City for four hours and then onto Puerto Vallarta and twelve hour wait for TUI flight to Gatwick. Not the best service and noisy people with unruly children. Help! Just before landing passenger in the next seat had an epileptic fit but stewards had no idea of how to handle it. He vomited but missed my boots by millimetres and then passed out. More chaos. At Gatwick trains not running on my connecting route so into London and then back to Biddenden in Kent and home.

Friday 03/06/2022: Queen's Jubilee celebrations everywhere and village decorated with banners and posters. Very colourful and met many people who I knew and chatted to. Book Fair and Flower Festival and Morris Dancers in my honour!!! What are Morris Dancers? It is probable the term Morris developed from the French word morisque (meaning a dance, the dance), which became morisch in Flemish, and then the English moryssh, moris and finally morris. Flanders in the fifteenth century was an innovative cultural centre, and strongly influenced European culture in general. The earliest confirmation of a performance of morris dancing in England dates from London on 19 May 1448, when Moryssh daunsers were paid 7s (35p) for their services.

Morris People And I

By Elizabethan times it was already considered to be an ancient dance, and references appear to it in a number of early plays. Many called for a dance or jig to be performed by the leading actor. One of the most popular actors of the time was Will Kemp and, for a wager during Lent in 1599/1600 (when the roads would be exceedingly bad!), he danced from London to Norwich The Nine Daies Wonder (although he started on the first Monday in Lent, and arrived at Easter). Large numbers of spectators turned out to cheer him on and check his progress. Throughout its history in England, morris dancing has been through many manifestations. Five hundred years ago it was a dance for one or two; today it is for four or more. Accounts of morris dancing can be found throughout England, making it a nationwide phenomenon... SEE MORE > to prove I have made it back to the UK, a picture of me with Morris maidens and the local pub with Jubilee banners.

Trooping The ColoursSaturday 04/06/2022: The parade of Trooping of the Queen's Colour very impressive yesterday on Horse Guard's Square but evening concert disappointing and too long. Sorry organisers. LOG ON TO THIS LINK and skim through to about 30 mins. This is a long video so no need to follow it through to the end. (May only work for UK subscribers).

Delipps Monday 06/06/2022: Now preparing for bike show at the end of the week at the Adventure Bike Shop where I will be joined by Sam Manicom and Globebusters. Saturday 11th June. My new book will be on sale along with my Africa book and DVDs. Hope for a good turnout form you guys out there. Turnip soup will also be available. See pic of poster below for details.

Adventure Bike Shop I also include here a pic of my super Web Master celebrating the Jubilee, John 'delipps' at a popular blues and jazz festival. Thanks John for design and uploading of the LOG for many years and for cover design of my books.


FAREWELL MEXICO

Max Temperature Tuesday 24/05/2022: Well it is time to say goodbye!! After nearly two years in Mexico and thwarted plans we will be leaving Central America on 2nd June to return to the UK to not so hot climes as the temperature here is now 38 degrees. A little too 'warm' at the moment.

Wednesday 25/05/2022: It will, of course, be a sad day but one thing has brought some joy as I have acquired a 'new' bike, another Tenere, as the one I have had for 12 years is now in pieces and packaged for sending to the UK as a memento. For those interested in specs it is a Yamaha XT660Z Z Tenere 2014, exactly the same as my old bike but with improvements.

Tenere The SecondIncredibly it has only 12 400 kilometres on the clock. Totally spotless with GPS tracker from Garmin, extra crash bars, LED spotlights for night time off road, tank bag, Michelin Sirac racing tyres, Brembo brakes, added height, jacked suspension, top box, immobilizer, alarm and tracker. Marzocchi shock absorbers, and specially made screen for wind resistance. OK. Enough of the boring. It is a beast.

Spencers Own Stretcher Brand Friday 27/05/2022: Would you Adam and Eve it? Nothing to worry about but I am in Hospital again in La Ventana in Chiapas. I got stung on the neck whilst on the way back to Puerto Escondido having picked up the new bike. Miles from anywhere and lying on the side of a deserted road. Cathy injected me with the epipen but it didnt work. Massive swelling of chest and great problems breathing. Cathy contacted the The Green Angels, a volunteer group who help those in an emergency situation who got me to hospital on my own stretcher. Now on a drip and apparently I cannot ride so will only be able to head to Puerto in a couple of days. Vomiting, diarrhea, swollen throat and chest. Breathing difficult but not in any danger now.

Saturday 28/05/2022: Could not make it up. Lying in hospital bed and started shaking!!! What's happening? Furniture rocking and equipment rattling. Hallucinations? NO! Earthquake. What next?

Earthquake Record Monday 30/05/2022: Looks like Mexico does not want us to leave. Have made it back to Escondido but in a couple of hours we are going to be hit by Hurricane Agatha, not Christie, but a mystery as to why so early in the season for such weather conditions. The first hurricane of the season formed off Mexico's southern Pacific coast on Sunday and rapidly gained power ahead of an expected strike along a stretch of tourist beaches and fishing towns. Hurricane Agatha could make landfall at close to major hurricane force today in the area near Puerto Escondido and Puerto Angel in the southern state of Oaxaca. The first named storm this year in the eastern Pacific is hurtling toward the southwestern Mexican coast, which it threatens to lash with storm surges and potentially fatal floods and mudslides. A Category 2 hurricane with maximum sustained winds of 100 miles per hour has just been updated to category 3. There are diggers on the beach making channels from the storm drains. Workers are shoring up shops and putting sandbags in doorways. Boat owners bringing them in from the shore. The Army is everywhere. All roads closed. All shops and Supermarkets have Army guarding against panic buying.

Guys, we are getting a direct hurricane hit. Agatha is stalled about 120 km from the coast which means it's just building and getting more power and rain and it did just make the turn to show its path is right over Puerto Escondido. It's possible that with storm surge and the many rivers that run from the mountains, we could see significant flooding. It will be about 120 mph (about 194 kmh) and the coast line water is already up a couple of meters higher and it hasn't even started.

Saving The Boat We have been told to prepare as per the following:

Have a back-up clean drinking water. Boil water ahead of time or make sure you have back stock. Remember to have 2 liters per person per day. Have extra non-potable water for dishes and toilet flushes if pumps are down because of electrical outage. A week's worth of food in case of flooded roads that can't transport in food. Things that don't need refrigeration are helpful in case of power outages. Candles and lighters (matches can get wet and not work so if you have them keep them dry) or flashlights and extra batteries. Plastic bags in case of flooding - for electronics and important documents. Charge your electronics ahead of time and keep them charged.• bring in outdoor furniture. Take down outdoor hanging lighting, take down overhangs. (they turn into whips and things that can fly off and break other things) Basic first aid - stuff for cuts or stomach issues. A bag to evacuate with a clean change of clothes, tooth brush, documents etc. if you are at low elevation. A full tank of gas in case of flooding and fast evacuation if you are along the coast. Remove fragile things off high shelves (when the walls shake from high winds things could fly off). Cover glass with blankets in case glass breaks from high wind or something flying into it - will keep glass from shattering into the room. Be aware of water lines and rising water levels. Turn off gas lines. Go to rooms with the least amount of windows during the storms intensity, especially east and south facing windows that will get the brunt of the wind. Don't use phone lines to keep them free for emergencies AND... meditate and enjoy!!

Hurricane Agatha DamageSTOP PRESS. Eleven people are dead and more than 20 missing after Hurricane Agatha struck Oaxaca State in Mexico. Agatha made landfall as a category two hurricane, the strongest to hit Mexico's Pacific coast in the month of May since records began in 1949. Heavy rain brought by Agatha triggered landslides and flash flooding. Most of the victims were swept away by rivers or buried in mudslides. Agatha arrived on Mexico's coast near Puerto Ángel with wind gusts of up to 169km/h (105mph) but lost strength as it moved inland.

MelondramaticTuesday 31/05/2022: Yes. IT HIT, but not as severely in Escondido as expected but very sorry for those who lost their lives and those whose houses were destroyed. The beach has largely disappeared and some fairly deep flooding, trees down and vegetation in the streets. Otherwise have escaped but electricity out so no power which will cause discomfort and loss of frozen food stuff. Relief mainly. Now have to hope that our flights in two days' time are not cancelled. So with the wind behind us will be in the UK by the end of the week and in future will not be so melondramatic. See you soon.

Avocado and chips. Cathy and Spencer.

Sheep Locked Up MOVING ON

Saturday 07/05/2022: Mexico continues to surprise and recently I read of an amusing, but serious, Police case against SHEEP! Mexico has high impunity rates for many crimes but residents of one municipality in the Mixteca region of Oaxaca, not far from our place of domicile, have made it clear they won't tolerate the consumption of GRASS. Not the drug type, that's relatively OK. Two sheep were locked up in the municipal jail for about 13 hours as they were caught grazing on the pasture of the grounds of a local school. I also learnt that among animals that have also spent time behind bars are turkeys, donkeys and goats. In a recent case in Oaxaca, a donkey was jailed because its owners were unable to pay local taxes. It was freed after 72 hours. The Police earnt money by offering donkey rides to the local children for a small fee. Not proven, of course!! Google the youtube link for DRAMTIC FOOTAGE OF INCARCERATED SHEEP.

DronesTuesday 10/05/2022: Still on related police matters thieves are being hunted who have reached new 'heights' after 300 drones were snatched in a highway robbery. More than 800 advanced technical items worth about US $320,000 were stolen. A technology company has asked customers for patience after thieves cleared out a truck carrying a variety of products. The company made a statement stating that as well as the drones 500 cameras and mounts were also stolen from a truck transporting the products to their warehouses. The thieves were probably using one of the company's drones to track the truck, maybe!!

BoaSunday 15/05/2022: There are many snakes in Mexico, 381 species to be exact, and one is the Boa constrictor. The notion that constrictors slay by preventing breathing turns out to be wrong. These snakes don't need limbs, or even venom, to bring down an animal of their own size but are extraordinary hunters. Speed matters with prey flailing claws, hooves or other weaponry the snake lacks. Embracing prey into heart failure is faster than suffocating which is what boas do. Ambushing birds, monkeys and a wide range of other animals from Mexico and south to Argentina, the iconic Boa constrictor attacks by cinching a loop or two around the upper body of prey, pressing against its victim hard enough to starve organs of oxygenated blood. The rainbow boa, Epicrates cenchria, kills its prey by cutting off its captive's blood flow, not by suffocating it. Circulation falters and fails. Boas release their grip after about six minutes on average. Then the boa swallows the catch whole. Moveable bones in the head help the snake make the gulp, as does a dimple of stretchy cartilage that lets the chin open wide. So next timje you hug your partner in a tight embrace make sure the you donn't cut off the blood supply. Could lead to a sad occurrence.

Tuesday 17/05/2022: Not usually into politics in Mexico, could lead to disputes, but recently an open debate has been a talking point, so briefly this is the gist and it focusses on attendance at the Summit of the Americas to be held soon.

Respect for democracy is an essential condition for attendance at the Summit of the Americas, a senior United States official said on Thursday. The U.S. government appears unlikely to invite the presidents of Cuba, Venezuela and Nicaragua to the ninth edition of the regional forum, which will be held in Los Angeles this month. This has caused debate in Mexico. The President, López Obrador, questioned the validity of his compatriot, Senor Ramos's statement that some South American leaders should not be invited to the important summit, in agreement with the US. Ramos' assertion was made in reference to Cuban President Miguel Díaz-Canel, Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro and Nicaraguan President Daniel Ortega. The President countered by saying, "Who are we to call some people thugs, torturers and oppressors and not others? Do we consider ourselves supreme judges now? Are we going to decide about others? With what right?" He said that Mexico is seeking an agreement so that "we all participate" in the summit, "all of America. Unity is in our interest. That's what politics is for, that's what diplomacy is for." Ramos replied that his opinion of the "brutal dictatorships" in Cuba, Nicaragua and Venezuela is supported by "numerous reports about violations of human rights by Amnesty International and other organizations." "... There are hundreds and hundreds of political prisoners in Cuban, Nicaraguan and Venezuelan jails. The Mexicans must take sides but our side must be that of democracy, justice, freedoms and respect of human rights." There can be no winners in this debate but at least in Mexico there is a possibility of opposite opinions.

Daniel Ortega

Friday 20/05/2022: Bike Demise After 13 years and thousands of kilometres my Tenere is no more. It has finally travelled on its last journey and it is very sad to report that I have decided to reduce it to body parts. It has served me incredibly well and has taken me through jungles, deserts, over mountains and on endless tracks of wasteland. An amazing variety of terrains. It has been through tropical storms, blizzards, searing heat and sub-zero temperatures. It has saved my life on multiple occasions when a lesser bike would have left me for dead. Now in pieces and packed into cartons for shipping to the UK as a museum exhibit. I cannot leave it in Mexico it would break my heart.

Bike In Boxes Sunday 22/05/2022: Finally will be leaving Mexico in just over a week and hopefully will see some of you at the up-coming bike shows. My new book will be available and would love to have a chat with anyone who wants to do so about South America and the adventures that both Cathy and myself experienced. I include a map of the route around that vast, and magical continent. My next log will be posted probably after I have left this incredible country and I will be saddened to leave here. Farewell Mexico and Mexican friends and I hope all stay well and find peace and joy. Dreaming of the future.

< Check photo archive for some recent pics >

Marathon RunnersWHAT NEXT MEXICO

Friday 15/04/2022: Two Rarámuri runners are part of the cast of a new Mexican movie about a man training to compete in the Mexico City marathon. Martín Moreno and Enrique Moreno star alongside film and television actor David Angulo in a film directed by Rafael Montero that is currently in the final phase of post-production. The protagonist meets Martín and Enrique at the start of the film, asks them for help to achieve his goal of running in the Mexico City marathon and pledges to accompany them as they run along the highway from Chihuahua city to the state's Sierra region. Rarámuri, or Tarahumara, people are renowned long-distance runners and typically run in traditional sandals called huaraches. "It's the story of a man who, like all of us, isn't perfect. He has several problems in his life, but he's not a bad person. Through this journey, he connects with the best version of himself, and it's always nice to see the transformation of a person." From the Director.

Easter Saturday 16/04/2022: Today is Holy Saturday, the day between the commemoration of the death of Christ and the celebration of his resurrection. It is also the day, according to tradition, when the apostle Judas Iscariot, who betrayed Jesus to Roman authorities for money, committed suicide. For the unspeakable sin of betraying the son of God, Judas has long been an icon of evil second only to the Devil himself in the eyes of Catholics. In southern Europe, a tradition arose of making effigies to represent Judas, then burning them on Holy Saturday as a way to repudiate evil and purify the community for the upcoming celebrations. The Spanish took this tradition with them to the New World. Of course, Mexico made changes. One of these was to forego the crude human figure made of whatever was on hand to something that required more artistic talent - often in a hard papier-mache craft style called cartonería.

Judas EffigiesA figure of the Devil became the most popular, with the idea that it represented Judas after the betrayal, rather than trying to depict what he might have looked like in life. The second adaption made in Mexico was to "burn" the figure not by setting it alight but by setting off a bunch of fireworks attached or embedded into the figure, essentially blowing it to pieces and destroying a finely crafted artwork that took hours to make. But a third tradition with the Judases nearly wiped out the entire Holy Saturday ritual in the 1950s: that of making Judases in the form of living public figures who for one reason or another had prompted the ire of the community - in particular, authorities. During Mexico's decades-long one-party rule by the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), such mockery of political leaders became common so Artisans' workshops were checked in the run-up to Holy Week to see if any Judases representing the president or others were being made. The tradition was prohibited. But now they are permitted and in most communities where Judases are "burned," the brightly painted figures are hoisted into a tree or suspended in a way that allows them to dangle, much like a piñata.

Mayan Calendar Monday 18/04/2022: Here in Mexico the Mayan dynasty is represented in artefacts and monuments across the country and it is now possible to put a date to some of the remains across the region. Buried within the Las Pinturas pyramid in San Bartolo, Guatemala, thousands of painted plaster mural fragments offer a window into ancient Maya civilization. Two of those fragments form the earliest known record of a Maya calendar, created between 300 and 200 B.C. The fragments depict the date of "7 Deer" from the 260-day sacred calendar common across ancient Mesoamerica and still used today by indigenous communities in Guatemala and southern Mexico. From 400 B.C. to 100 A.D., the Mayas razed and rebuilt their pyramids several times, creating a series of discrete time capsules stacked on top of each other. By radiocarbon dating both the material in the layer where the calendar fragments were found and the material used to bury that layer meant researchers can determine when the calendar was produced which was once common across Mesoamerica. Thirteen numbers and twenty signs are mixed and matched to represent 260 specific dates in the history of the Mayan dynasty.

Siege De Puebla Wednesday 20/04/2022: History has a habit of repeating itself and here in Mexico foreign nations have invaded the country in an effort to colonise them over several centuries. The Spanish, of course, but also the French, along with the British, who invaded Mexico in 1861 after the then president Benito Juárez stopped making foreign debt repayments. The British left the country after receiving a guarantee they would receive the money they were owed, but the French remained. Mexican forces defeated the French army at the famous Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862, but the city fell to the French just over a year later. There are remains of a person who probably died from a bullet wound, as well as elements such as buttons and bullets that can give us information about the battle, which occurred in the streets of Puebla to defend the sovereignty of the country. Does that sound familiar? The Mexican victory is celebrated yearly through a festival on the same date as the battle. It is primarily held in the Mexican state of Puebla, where the holiday is celebrated as El Día de la Batalla de Puebla. In the United States, this holiday has evolved into the very popular Cinco de Mayo holiday, a celebration of Mexican heritage. If Ukraine succeeds in surviving the Russian invasion I am sure there will be similar celebrations.

Scorpion Friday 22/04/2022: I am regularly in contact with scorpions and quite like the creatures. They often creep into shower rooms and can be found under stones and in crevices in garden areas. They are silent assassins and can be quite pesky and also adept at hiding in any clothing left lying around. Word of warning!! Have just learnt that the smaller the scorpion the more severe the sting. They can inject highly toxic poison which can kill an adult. Children often die from a tiny scorpion sting. Large scorpions are not so deadly. Beware and aware you don't know where they lair, lurk.

Judas EffigiesSunday 24/04/2022: Today I have to celebrate as after weeks of writing and editing my next book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' it is now at the printers and should be available in the middle of May. It has been difficult to liaise with my editor in the UK, particularly as it has been logistically a nightmare to organise contact from Mexico with intermittent wi-fi contact. But all is now done. The book is 364 pages and has 80 photos, with 26 in colour. It is not an account of a circumnavigation but a book of 23 chapters of accounts of the culture and historical events that shaped South America. On our journey through the continent we experienced extremes of life for the inhabitants of the countries we travelled through and encountered people who survive on the fringes of what is termed 'society.' We met with mafia gangs, prostitutes and drug addicts but also with the most engaging of people and the best of this exotic and beautiful continent. A wonderful, exciting and unforgettable journey. We also did have to contend with extremes of terrain and weather and temperatures from below zero to 40 celsius. The book does not delve into this aspect but for an example I include a short extract of what came our way. This is after struggling through a thunderstorm along a muddy track for several kilometres in search of a place to rest up and regain strength.

We rode on, the sweat from our bodies drying and cooling us, and then the rain started again, running down our necks, soaking us once more. We started shivering uncontrollably, in spasms. Your body starts jolting, and my fingers were numb around the bars. Guyana means 'land of many waters'. No kidding. From all directions. Not a problem, if you have lights. The Tenere headlight was useless. It was facing towards the sky, like an air raid search light, the road ahead, pitch black. No choice but to stop and align it. I duly snapped off the adjustor knob, so had to stuff a sock behind the light, at the top, to lower the beam. It worked a treat. It was like following the light from a burning cigarette, or from a gloomy candle. Must sort that out. This was getting dangerous. I was all for stopping, spreading the tent over the bike, and sleeping on the ground, crying, underneath it.

It was a "No" from Cathy: "Keep going, take it slowly, we will get somewhere"

"We are somewhere," I didn't say

I repeated in my head, 'Day by day, nothing lasts forever'


All for now and hopefully you will enjoy the book. Best from Cathy and myself and don't forget the figgy pudding. Spencer


LOOKING FORWARD

Adventure Bike ShopAdventure Bike Rider Festival 2022 

Visit Adventure Bike Rider Festival 2022 >
Visit Adventure Bike Shop >

Tuesday 26/04/2022: Looks like we will be returning to the UK in early June after our long, forced stay in Mexico. We will be attending Adventure Shows in various parts of England and hope to meet with many friends who we have not seen for some time after coronavirus prevented our return and also halted meetings of bikers and adventurers.

Young Mappers Finally made it to the big time. Name up there with some lesser known circumnavigators. Map from a junior school project in the Turks and Cakos Islands. Nice to find youngsters are following my exploits. Will have to send a thank you for the recognition.

Thursday 28/04/2022: Mexico has crocodiles as proved by recent cases of attack by these huge creatures. There are three species, in fact, but the most common is Crocodylus acutus, the American crocodile, which frequently lives in estuaries and can grow to a length of over five meters. A biologist, Paulino Ponce, is an independent researcher specializing in crocodiles and human-croc conflicts who is currently leading a team dedicated to the tricky business of finding and relocating crocodiles from Mexico's biggest inland body of water, Lake Chapala. One example of attack is when a crocodile three meters long caught a six-year-old girl in Puerto Vallarta. In another case, a 4.68-meter croc killed a five-year-old boy in the estuary of the Tomatlán River in Jalisco. The culprit was captured and transferred to an enclosure.

Jaws BewareAnd, of course, very recently, a croc attacked an English girl in the mangrove swamps in Escondido near the vicinity where we live. Although there are few cases of being caught by a croc people should especially be watchful of their children and their pets. In Africa crocodiles can surprise and catch a fast animal like a cheetah, so one must be alert near known habitats. In Mexico more than 70% of the people attacked by crocs used to be fishermen, but now it is tourists who are more likely to be threatened. So beware all you unsuspecting tourists when sunbathing on the beaches. Jaws can strike!!

Sunday May 1/2022: Mexico has many attractions and cities appealing to tourists. One of them is Guanajuato like no other in Mexico .In 1548, a prospector discovered silver in the mountains surrounding what today is the capital of the state by the same name. By the mid-1700s, Guanajuato had become the wealthiest city in Mexico. The owner of the La Valenciana mine paved the path from his house to the nearby church with gold so that his daughter would not have to touch the soil on her way to be married. Built in a narrow valley between the mountains that made it rich, Guanajuato has many beautiful examples of the art and architecture of the age of the Spanish viceroys and a rich history, culture and gastronomy. Guanajuato features a series of narrow alleys that wind their way through the centre. Now here is a legend!! The most famous of these is the Callejón del Beso (Alley of the Kiss), where a wealthy mine owner and his daughter lived. A simple miner and his son lived in a house where only 27 inches separated the balconies of the two homes. Rich by poor!! One day, the girl's father surprised her in the middle of kissing the neighbour's son across their balconies. Furious, he told her he would rather kill her than see her marry beneath her rank. But young love would have its way. Once again, the two were found leaning across the narrow gap and kissing. Enraged, the father stabbed his daughter to death. AHHHHHH!!!! Soon afterward, the lovestruck young man also committed suicide rather than live without the love of his life. Does this remind you of anything? It is said that if two lovers kiss on this spot, they will be together forever. This has attracted couples to recreate the kiss evermore.

Mummy MuseumBut Guanajuato's most famous attraction is the Guanajuato Mummy Museum. Between 1870 and the mid-1950s, a local tax was levied on city residents to pay for maintaining the cemetery. The bodies of members of families unable to pay this "eternal rest" tax were disinterred to make room, and the soil's quality and the climate in the area caused the natural mummification of some corpses. Today 57 of these mummies are on display at the museum. The exhibit includes the youngest mummy on record, a six-month foetus. Many of the clothes are still intact on the corpses after more than 100 years. One woman even appears to have been buried alive by accident. The position of her body and the expression on her face would indicate she faced a horrific end. If you visit Mexico and are anywhere near Guanajuato it is worth a visit.

Monday 02/05/2022: Sad to say the number of road accidents in Mexico is high and recently not too distant from where we live a bus veered off the road and killed several tourists. The driver allegedly fell asleep at the wheel, sending the vehicle falling 10 meters into a ravine. The tourist bus had travelled from Puebla to the Virgin of Juquila Sanctuary, a pilgrimage site 200 kilometres south of Oaxaca city. It was on its way to the coastal town of Puerto Escondido when the accident occurred. Three children that died in the accident, all boys, ages 7, 8 and 10. The driver fell asleep and went off the road he survived the accident and was arrested.

Swordfish Wednesday 04/05/2022: Have you ever had swordfish? Probably not and am pleased about that but in Mexico they are regularly caught for restaurants. They are plentiful - and affordable - on both coasts of Mexico Swordfish (pez espada) are found in the waters off Baja, Nayarit, Sinaloa, Sonora and Guerrero. They are powerful, predatory fish and travel alone, not in schools. They can often be found at the surface of the water or breaching and are one of the world's largest and fastest fish, able to swim up to 80 kilometres per hour. Fresh swordfish is a dull white, with a reddish vein in the centre of a whole filet. It's often compared to chicken and doesn't have a fishy or oily taste and indeed can be almost sweet. They are really magnificent creatures and hope fully will continue to thrive and escape over-fishing.

Friday 06/05/2022: To end this log I include another extract from my book which is being printed at this very moment. You may be aware that the type of travelling we are engaged in has some Dodgy Moments. One such was at a suspicious road-block in Venezuela set-up by a fairly evil looking, armed bunch of 'banditos'. Actually it was a person on the pillion who proved to be more threatening.

When I was waved down, I slowed the engine, slowed my thoughts and realised I was going to do one thing; rocket past them, they were not your run-of-the-mill roadblock. I knew my instincts were right. I slowed right down, put them off guard, and then accelerated between two of them. I accelerated off, hoping it would not be a repeat of my Kenyan bandit attack. I felt they would have to make one serious decision if they were going to shoot the only 'tourists' in Venezuela for years. As we pulled away with no sounds of gunshots, and disappeared around a corner I felt super proud. I got a slap on the back of my helmet.

"What the hell are you doing? We could have been shot!"

"Sorry I didn't feel good about those guys" I replied.

"I am on the back of the bike, and if they shoot, I am the one who gets killed" Cathy replied, instantly.

I thought about this one deeply, and came up with one of the smoothest lines I could imagine. Clint Eastwood would have been proud. Clint Westwood too.

"Yes Cathy, but if they had shot at us, the bullet would have gone through you, and into me"

Cathy looked at me quizzically; if you could, in a helmet, behind someone. Now the Clintina Eastwood comment came out; Cathy just said, "Fair enough"

End of motorcycle domestic. Apart from that brief disagreement, we travelled for at least three kilometres, before the next disagreement.

"Not true" says Cathy.

The next stop was Ciudad Bolivar, bang in the centre of Venezuela.


'That's all folks' as somebody once said and another 'I'll be back.' Cathy and Spencer and a dish of salted peanuts and spaghetti.


MORE NEWS FROM MEXICO: Continued...

April Fool's Day Friday April 01/04/2022: I have booked my flight to......the moon! Only way to get out of my adopted country and this being April Fools' Day! Now how did this name come into being? Many sources are listed and several countries claim that it originated in theirs. There is a reference to April Fools' Day in a 1561 poem by Flemish poet, Eduard de Dene, of a nobleman who sends his servants out on foolish errands on 1 April, and then sent them out again when they failed to find what they had been sent to seek. April Fools' Day is an established tradition in Great Britain and some suggest that it is from one of Chaucer's 'Canterbury Tales'. In the "Nun's Priest's Tale", a vain cock is tricked by a fox and meets its fate.

Tree Of Life Sculpture Check this link to find out more about 'April Fool's Day'

Sunday 03/04/2022: As said before Mexico has a rich heritage of art and crafts and one such is Metepec's contribution to Mexican folk art which is its "trees of life" sculptures. Originally decorated candle holders, they are intricate, ornate sculptures that are often tall and colourful edifices. The most traditional of these is a tree with leaves and animals representing the Garden of Eden with figures of Adam and Eve. But they have evolved to include other themes and have become stylized into abstracts as the one pictured by Tiburcio Soteno that is based on pre-Hispanic images related to fertility. The longer one stays in Mexico one discovers more of the culture of the country.

Tuesday 05/04/2022: Many visitors to Mexico are bemused by the fact that Mexicans have an Elastic Time sense. When someone tells you, 'ahorita llego,' it could mean "I'm coming right now" — or not. The expression 'ratito' could mean "in a little while." But what does it mean by 'a little while?' It is Elastic! Maybe in 10 minutes or 2 hours!! When will the package arrive? 'Hoy Hoy' "Today." Maybe. Possibly. Could be 'today' tomorrow or 'Mañana'

Mexico Time

In the last log I mentioned that there is a new way to receive warnings of earth quakes and rumours recently circulated that Frida , a 12-year-old yellow Labrador had died which caused dismay in Mexico. Why? She is known in the country for her participation in search efforts following the powerful September 19, 2017, earthquake that devastated Mexico City and other parts of central Mexico. Frida officially retired in 2019 after nine years of service.

FridaIn her distinguished career of public service, she was also involved in the search for earthquake victims in Haiti in 2010, in Ecuador in 2016 and in Juchitán, Oaxaca, in September 2017.In addition, she searched for landslide victims in Guatemala in 2012 and looked for people buried under rubble after an explosion at the Pemex Tower in Mexico City in early 2013. People have put away their handkerchiefs as it has been announced that Frida is still alive and enjoying an earthquake free life!

Brain Surgery Thursday 07/04/2022: When was the first brain surgery performed? Well a man with a hole in his forehead, who was interred in what's now northwest Alabama between around 3,000 and 5,000 years ago, is the oldest known case of skull surgery. Damage around the man's oval skull opening indicates that someone scraped out that area of bone, probably to reduce brain swelling caused by a violent attack or a serious fall. He had injuries to his left eye, left arm, leg and collarbone. Bone regrowth on the edges of the skull opening indicates that the man lived for up to one year after surgery. It is likely that the recipient of the surgery was a shaman as his grave included items like those found in other shamans' graves in the area. It is possible that shamans in Mexico carried out similar 'operations' whilst the 'victim' was under the influence of drugs. Nothing new in the world.

Dionisio Pulido Monday 11/04/2022: Mexico is known as the 'Ring of Fire' for its huge number of active and dormant volcanos and one of them has been monitored since its 'birth'. Paricutín arose from a Michoacán farmer's cornfield in 1943; its eruption officially lasted for nine years. By 1952, it had formed a 424-meter-high cone, and two towns were completely buried in lava and ash and three others severely damaged. Hundreds had to permanently relocate, resulting in the creation of two towns. Spewing ash, smoke and rock, the volcano reached 50 meters in height on the first day, and 100–150 meters by the end of the week. Within eight months, the cone was 365 meters tall. Fortunately, the lava's slow movement meant minimal loss of life. Most of the growth and damage occurred in that first year, but it brought many journalists and scientists from Mexico and from abroad to study the development of a volcano. Paricutín's last major burst of activity was in 1952. It is located in the state of Michoacán, near the city of Uruapan and about 322 kilometres west of Mexico City. The volcano suddenly emerged from the cornfield of a local farmer Dionisio Pulido in 1943, who claimed the volcano as his own..

Fried Bananas Wednesday 13/04/2022: All for this log. Just off in search of a volcano and to inform all that my next book has some references to volcanos and shamans. Looks like it will be available in the next few weeks. Stay safe and away from shamans and volcanos. Both pretty worrying. Fried bananas in chocolate sauce.

Check out the recipe on youtube... Enjoy! Cathy and Spencer


MORE NEWS FROM MEXICOMexican Earthquake

Sunday 20/03/2022:
Earthquake Warning via Mobile Phone


Mexico is a country prone to earthquakes and in the past there have been major disasters caused by earth tremors. The Mexico City earthquake of 1985, also called Michoacán earthquake, was a severe tremor that occurred on September 19, 1985, off the coast of the Mexican state of Michoacán, causing widespread death and injuries and catastrophic damage in Mexico's capital, Mexico City. The magnitude-8.0 quake occurred at 7:18am and caused major destruction. Recently, in Escondido, we had a low-level quake which sent us running into the street along with the inhabitants of the town. Now there will soon be is a system to send earthquake warnings in the form of alerts of earthquakes in Mexico that would go direct to citizens' mobile phones, giving them more time to evacuate buildings and seek safety.

Mobile PhoneThe federal organization that tracks earthquakes and runs the country's early warning system, CIRES, announced that it plans to introduce phone alerts and said the warnings would reach citizens regardless of network operators, the quality of their internet connections and without the need for them to download an application. The improved early warnings would be transmitted through the technology Cell Broadcast, which enables CIRES to send out bulk messages to mobile phone users in a defined area. We better make sure our phones are charged ready for the next tremble!!

Tuesday 22/03/2022: We all know about air and sea pollution that endangers our planet but there is another form of pollution that harms creatures in the sea and that is Light Pollution. In the UK offshore oil and gas rigs and wind farms in the North Sea shine brightly on the water, as does the glow of coastal cities in, for example, the United Kingdom and Norway as recorded in the photo where the region's waters are clear enough that the artificial light to penetrate from 1 meter (dark blue) to 30 meters (yellow) deep. Humans' night time light has the most impact in the top meter of the water where artificial light is intense enough to cause a biological response across nearly 2 million square kilometres of ocean, an area roughly that of Mexico.

Light PolutionThis has a detrimental effect on tiny sea creatures that are sensitive to light and causes changes to breeding function. Not all species are equally sensitive to light but copepods, ubiquitous shrimplike creatures that are a key part of many ocean food webs are affected. Like other tiny zooplankton, copepods use the sun or the winter moon as a cue to plunge to the dark deep, seeking safety from surface predators so the more light there is the more their habitat is affected and also for other marine life that feed upon them near the surface.

Corona VirusFriday 25/03/2022: Many of us have suffered from the pandemic of Covid-19, as I have, and still am. Not that well at the moment and feeling generally down and unhealthy, loss of smell and failure to concentrate caused by a virus that is so colourful under a micro-scope! It seems that after a bout of COVID-19, people have, on average, less grey matter in parts of the brain that help handle the sense of smell. That's an interesting finding, especially given the virus's ability to steal people's sense of smell. But it's also not surprising, given what we know about the brain's propensity to change. The brain is dynamic, and neuro-scientists have found that brain areas grow and shrink over the course of days. This change, found in the hippocampus, a brain structure tied to learning and memory, and nearby areas, can be monitored to record ebbs and flows of changes. The brain can reorganize and heal itself to some extent, even in older people and it's also possible that some changes are due to a lack of smell input. Research has shown that blocked noses can lead to brain changes as found in recent brain-scanning studies. Perhaps these brain changes could reverse when the sense of smell returns. Let's hope so.

Carl By The SeaSaturday 26/03/2022: Carl Routhier who many of you will know is a good friend, and travelled with me in parts of Africa, helping with filming for the Africa series is here in Puerto Escondido. He and his wife Elyse are in Mexico for a visit and it is 13 years since we last met. Elyse is a snowboard maestro and they both ski, husky sled race and have a kennel with 53 dogs. On top of that we are all interested in extreme sport, adventure, travel and wildlife. So the friendship is strong.

Sadly we witnessed a murder which I tried to prevent, a thief being beaten by a mob. I managed to stop them and then cleared his throat of blood but he died before an ambulance arrived. Not the nice side of Mexico. The police interviewed me and said it was a Cartel drug dispute.

Monte AlbanSad times and put us off the town for a bit so we headed into the mountains of Oaxaca and visited the Zapotec Aztec site, Monte Alban which is 2500 years old. Funnily no one knows where the name Monte Alban comes from.

At Sea With Carletta Monday 28/03/2022: A few days ago Aaron Carotta, who is rowing round the world, was passing by this stretch of coast. Having conquered a solo 232-day journey down North America's longest river system with just $37 in his pocket, limited supplies of mostly oatmeal and Spaghetti-Os and zero experience, Carotta and his canoe have expanded their horizons and decided to undertake an even bigger journey in 2021.

Carotta is making a solo worldwide trip in his rowboat, one that will take him from 3–5 years and that he's documenting through a variety of media online in the hopes of educating viewers about the lives of people around the world. He also hopes to break the Guinness world record for the longest solo journey by canoe or kayak. Currently the record is 3,462.89 miles by Marcin Gienieczko of Poland. Carotta talks a lot about his spirituality as being a personal thing for him — not something he wants to push on others, but more like a journey of finding his God. He started the journey as part of his spirituality. "It is personal and a quest — not a mission to save the world. Humanity, communication and God are the three elements that define my life."

Keep going Aaron and stay safe.

Huejotzingos - Shrove Tuesday MEXICO: TRADITIONS AND MORE

Friday 04/03/2022: Many of Mexico's traditions are kept alive by celebrations both of a religious and secular nature. One such is an annual Carnival in Huejotzingo which includes indigenous rituals steeped in Mexican history. Officially, year 2022 marked the 154th anniversary of the Carnival, and the anniversary of its militarization when it started to celebrate the battle of Cinco de Mayo. The Carnival's true origin is linked to the beginning of the farming cycle, when indigenous groups started preparing the land for planting and is still an important event. 20,000 to 25,000 residents participate each year. Alongside a battalion of men dressed up as French soldiers, a man on foot is dressed representing indigenous tradition. Participants are grouped into four "battalions," one from each of Huejotzingo's neighbourhoods. A band accompanies each, with a "general" leading them. Each wears a distinctive costume and carries fusiles talladas, elaborately carved and very loud muskets, which have caused injuries and even deaths on occasions. The Carnival commemorates three events: the defeat of the French in Puebla on May 5, 1862; the story of a kidnapping of a mayor's daughter by Agustín Lorenzo, a bandit; and the first Catholic indigenous wedding. It is celebrated on Shrove Tuesday immediately preceding Ash Wednesday, which in turn heralds the start of Lent, the Christian season supposed to replicate the Biblical story of Jesus Christ's withdrawal into the desert for 40 days. This year it was on March the first.

Chapulines Sunday 06/03/2022: Eating Bugs

If you like to experience local food and delicacies why not go for bugs? In some parts of Mexico, grasshoppers and other insects have been a traditional food for centuries. In Africa you can go for locusts or termites!! Both of which I have tasted. Chapulines are an integral part of Oaxacan cuisine. Fried and salted, mixed with garlic cloves and sometimes peanuts, they're a popular snack. They're added to tacos and tlayudas; blended into soups and guacamole; toasted on a comal; or seasoned with lime juice, chilies and salt and added to egg dishes. You may want to try them blended or ground and mixed with salt turned into a pretty, reddish-brown seasoning to sprinkle on just about anything you want. Chapulines are also popular in some parts of Mexico City. Recently they've become part of a surge in interest of traditional Mexican cuisine and ingredients. The small chapulín de la milpa eaten in Oaxaca, where Cathy and I live, taste better. This variety is small and bright green. Have a tasty meal of frittered bugs you might enjoy it!!

Hornet Wednesday 09/03/2022: A couple of weeks ago my brother, Simon, was stung by hornets in Eswatini, where he lives, and had to go to hospital for treatment. I have also been zapped by these nasty creatures and know how painful and life threatening they can be. Now there is a method to curtail the stinging habit of these flying, buzzing insects. To trap them!! particularly for Asian giant hornets, using sex traps placed near nests. Male Asian giant hornets captivated by the chemical signals of a ready-to-mate queen could one day find themselves stuck in a trap instead. Scientists identified three chemicals in the sex pheromone of Asian giant hornet queens. When traps with those chemicals were placed near the hornets' nests in China the traps ensnared thousands of males but no other insects. The research finding is a step toward designing pheromone traps, a common tool to monitor or control insect populations. Nests housing Asian giant hornets, Vespa mandarinia, nicknamed "murder hornets" for their habit of feasting on honeybees were lured by chemical extracts from just one gland of a queen hornet that trapped about 500 male hornets. The giant Asian hornet has a sting powerful enough of a 50 percent chance of killing a decent-sized (270-gram) rodent. I will definitely steer clear of this variety!!

Fabric Microphone Friday 11/03/2022: Fabric Records Sound

Do you want to listen to your own heart? Buy a new shirt or blouse. A new fibre acts as a microphone — picking up speech, rustling leaves and chirping birds — and turns those acoustic signals into electrical ones. Woven into a fabric, the material can even hear handclaps and faint sounds, such as its wearer's heartbeat, researchers report. Such fabrics could provide a comfortable, nonintrusive - even fashionable - way to monitor body functions or aid with hearing. As a proof of concept a research team incorporated the fabric into a shirt, which could hear its wearer's heart like a stethoscope does. Used this way, the fabric microphone could listen for murmurs and may someday be able to provide information similar to an echocardiogram, an ultrasound of the heart. If it proves effective as a monitoring and diagnostic tool, placing such microphones into clothing may someday make it easier for doctors to track heart conditions in young children, who have trouble keeping stil. The fabric microphone is sensitive to a range of noise levels, from a quiet library to heavy traffic, the team reports, although it is continuing to investigate what signal processing is needed to detangle target sounds from ambient noise. Integrated into clothing, this sound-sensing fabric feels like regular fabric and it continued to work as a microphone after washing it ten times.I need to get one to listen to my heart when a giant Asian hornet approaches.

Daniel Almanza Monday 14/03/2022: Marathon Runner

You can do it with a 'little bit' of determination and if you are not quite right in the head. A Mexican Marathoner is on 100-day run from Los Cabos to Quintana Roo through challenging terrain and extremes of weather, he is Daniel Almanza from Nuevo León he started this feat of endurance - dubbed Super Human - in Los Cabos, Baja California Sur, on January 16 and headed north from Los Cabos through Baja California Sur and Baja California before crossing the Sonora Desert to Puerto Peñasco, Sonora, 1,720 kilometers from the start line. He aims to pass through 21 states to reach Quintana Roo by April 25. The father of one has been running marathons for 15 years and is the only Mexican to run in the Continental Challenge, which took him to Vietnam, Bolivia and Mozambique. Super Human also aims to benefit medical research: Almanza will record the state of his health every day to see how the journey affects his body and mind. If he survives that is!! Good luck Daniel from Spencer.

Saturday 18/03/202: I rarely mention motorcycle things but for this log just to show I do have a bike, albeit not in a very healthy state, I include a photo of my Tenere which has been my means of transport for 12 years. Doesn't look too healthy at the moment as electrical and mechanical problems have rendered it a 'no-going anywhere bike'.

Bike Under RepairI am in the process of fixing the electrics, not easy as very complicated wiring and have to thank Peri back in the UK at Laguna, Maidstone, for some advice by email and also my fat cat who keeps watch so that I don't make any mistakes. He has a harmonious purr unlike my bike! Anyway hopefully will succeed as 'fat-cat' is waiting for a trip to Mouse Land, Open All Hours.

All for now. Off to buy a new shirt with magic fibres. Love from Cathy and chapulín de la milpa from me.

NEWS FROM MEXICO

Friday 04/03/2022: Ukraine and Mexico - Around the world there have been ant-Russian protests and it is the same here. Ukrainians and Mexicans marched in Mexico City against the Russia's invasion. People paraded with a 30-meter Ukrainian flag from the 'Monument to the Revolution' to the 'Angel of Independence' along Reforma Avenue.The protesters held signs bearing messages such as "Ukraine is invincible," and "Putin, crazy murderer. Get out of Ukraine!" in reference to the Russian President Vladimir Putin. It is likely that high inflation will have an adverse impact on tourism in Mexico this year. Tourists from Russia are usually about 65,000 a year, and from Ukraine, 20,000, but few of these will be coming in 2022, although President López Obrador has stated that Russian airlines will not be prohibited from flying into the country.

Aeroflot Closer to home involvement, on the ground in Romania, Mexico is helping with the evacuation of Ukrainians and Mexican citizens. One such is Omar Aviña, 32, from Jacona, Michoacán, and his Ukrainian fiancée, Iryna Volkova, 26, who were in Kyiv when the Russian invasion began. They spent the first night in Iryna's apartment, but when the windows were shaken by explosions, they sought refuge in the subway, where they stayed for six days. "We feared for our lives. You could hear the planes flying low and the surrounding explosions, and everything was shaking — the ground, the windows. We heard ... the sirens, which are still stuck in my mind," Aviña said. The couple fled Kyiv on Wednesday morning on a bus organized by Mexico's Foreign Ministry and crossed the border to Romania on Thursday. In Romania, they were evacuated from Bucharest with 79 other people on a Mexican Air Force plane and arrived in Mexico on Friday. Volkova was only able to leave with basic items such as her laptop, documents and some clothes. So here Mexico is doing its best to help refugees.

Child Refugees Formerly known as Santa Fe de Bogota it is the largest city, the capital and administrative centre of the wonderful jewel that is Colombia. This country gets my heart racing with excitement even writing its name down. It is insanely interesting if you veer away from the four, standard streets that tourists flock to. There is no denying that away from these sanitised, foreigner friendly areas, it has an edge to it and that's putting it mildly. The clichés are true, so let's get that part over with. Colombia, like Brazil has a serious problem with crystal meth, crack-cocaine and cocaine. Many of the problems stem directly from these addictions and it is a noticeable black cloud in many areas. Addicts are on many street corners and parks and underpasses. But Bogota is so, so much more than that.

Saturday 05/03/2022: Moving on to other things that have caused death now, like Covid-19, and ages ago, past Epidemics. Following the Spanish conquest there was a five-year outbreak of an unknown deadly illness that began in 1576 that led to lasting change for Christianity and Catholicism in Mexico. In 1576, when this epidemic struck, church bells initially tolled for each person who died of the mysterious plague, but eventually, the death count rose so high that the bells stopped ringing. By 1576, the country had already been suffering from multiple infectious diseases that had been brought by Europeans, most notably the smallpox epidemic spread by Hernán Cortés' messengers to Tenochtitlán even before the conquistador reached the Aztec capital.

Florantine Codex SmallpoxIn the decades following the conquest, epidemics had periodically ravaged indigenous populations, who created a term – cocoliztli – to name any unknown disease that was killing so many of them in painful ways, such as bleeding to death. One such cocoliztli epidemic occurred in 1545 which caused indigenous people to develop a form of local religion to protect them from epidemics against the authority of Spanish priests. Indigenous people incorporated Catholicism into their rituals and domestic practices, such as altars and images in their homes. These communities saw themselves as better Christians and Catholics than the friars themselves and discerned or decided what was sacred and holy in the religion. Today the Roman Catholic faith is a mixture of the religion of Spain and local custom.

Tuesday 08/03/2022: As I have mentioned before Mexicans love parades and spectacles and one such is to 'honour' bulls. Centuries ago a kind of a cult focusing on bulls existed taking on various forms.

Sebastianne SculptureBy the time of the Spanish conquest bulls were no longer regarded as gods, but they still held an important role in the imagination and in local celebrations, the most famous in Spain being the running of the bulls in Pamplona. Letting bulls loose in the streets of Mexico does happen in a few places, but in most communities, bull figures and dances replace the highly dangerous and unpredictable animals. The Mexican tradition of toritos, (little bulls) is not generally about realistic depictions but rather bulls made of papier-mache, wood, cane or wire that are painted in bright colours and with intricate designs. They are small enough and light enough to be mounted on a dancer's head and shoulders or simply held in the air. The toritos are laden with as many firecrackers and rockets as the maker/dancer can afford. While in most towns, they are paraded in the daytime, their real purpose is to be set off at night as the bearer runs around the crowds, showering people with sparks and flying rockets. In some towns these monumental beasts can reach up to three meters in height. Some dominate festivities because of their sheer size. Torotes (large bulls) are paraded around during the daytime so that the public can see the work and care that went into making and decorating each one. The group heaving them around is also the one that has spent months and thousands of pesos to create them. There may be up to 300. At night one by one the fireworks on the bull's back are lit. Each bull is usually destroyed in less than 20 minutes but the sheer number of bulls means that there are fireworks going off almost all night. Beats Guy Fawkes night in the UK!

Fish Eating Spider Thursday 10/03/2022: As you know I have had encounters with tarantulas on several occasions so forgive me for mentioning them again. In Peru's Amazon rainforest rare views of them have been recorded munching on vertebrates, including giant tarantulas capturing and eating opossums.

Sunshine In Your SmileScientists have known since at least the 1980s that these spiders, which frequently have vibration-detecting hairs and paralyzing venom, play a crucial role in the consumption of vertebrates. As yet I have avoided this gruesome fate!!

Friday 11/03/2022: On that pleasant note I'm off in search of some fish for supper and I'll watch out for tarantulas. Actually already caught some red snappers. Check out the photo archive for some recent photos. I include one here relevant to fish and I call it 'Sunshine in Your Smile'. Stay well and pray for Ukraine. Cathy and Spencer

SURVIVING MEXICOWar In Ukrain

Sunday 20/02/22: When I woke up this morning there was a message from my best friend in Kyiv, Ukraine:

"We are being bombed. I will not share what I felt or thought, because there are no proper words to express currently my feelings. Just pure facts. The war started against my country, Ukraine. Against common sense, against humanity, against values of integrity and peace. And with this it is the world's common problem to be faced and reacted. No one can say it's not their business anymore, madness spreads beyond borders and nations. My heart goes out to my country, my family and friends. I have total trust that Ukraine will stand strong, and I hope that the world will get united to stop the aggressor. God save Ukraine! "

By the time you read this the situation in Ukraine will either be a total disaster or would have been resolved in one way or another but not without loss of life. I send my sympathies to my Ukraine friends and hope you are safe and out of danger and Ukraine is free. Love to all.

Recently Ukraine has asked Mexico for arms and ammunition to repel the Russian invasion. In response Mexico has condemned Russia's invasion of Ukraine and called for an immediate ceasefire but, unlike many countries, hasn't announced any sanctions on Russia or the Russian government. Mexico officially follows a policy of non-intervention in the affairs of other countries, meaning that it would be highly unlikely to provide arms or ammunition to Ukraine.

Tuesday 22/02/2022:
Many readers have been asking when my next book will be available. It should be in print by the end of May ready for Adventure Festivals. Also for those of you in the States and other countries, but not the UK, my Africa book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' will be on KDP, in the next few days to be purchased through Amazon.

Just picked up a couple of comments on Good Reads just to show the book is not a myth!!

> Rip roaring read. Spencer has a unique wit that complements his level of insanity. A real page turner if you will! I highly recommend this book! Simon.

> Carool Van Der Hagen rated it as amazing! One of the best travel stories I ever read, funny as hell.


Nudist Festival Thursday 24/02/2022: An annual nudist festival in Oaxaca will go ahead as planned at the end of this month despite Covid-19, say its organizers, who have promised that they will follow all required regulations. The Zipolite Nudist Festival - put on by the Mexican Nudists' Federation - has taken place in the coastal municipality of San Pedro Pochutla for six years on Mexico's only legal nude beach. The event attracts as many as 8,000 people and is generally peaceful and occurs without any untoward incident.

Saturday 26/02/2022: Many of you will be familiar with the type of clothes worn by cowboys that recently figured in the film 'Day of the Dog', but not so well known is the fact that the Mexican gaucho has his own version of the costume. This is widely worn in the Cuerathe region and is called the cuera. It has an unmistakable flair: a leather jacket heavily decorated with fringes and ornate depictions of flowers and plants. Leather coats and jackets started out as practical wear for working on the range, but the main purpose of these garments nowadays is to make a statement.

CueraThey are popular with politicians, businessmen, musicians and anyone looking to show love for Mexico's distinctive northern culture. The small town of Tula, Tamaulipas, claims credit as the origin of the iconic jacket. Its predecessor was called a cotón, a long deerskin overcoat that cowboys wore to protect themselves from thorns and branches. During the Mexican Revolution, a general by the name of Alberto Carrera Torres asked an artisan, Porfirio Reyna Mata, to design one. Reyna added a floral design and fringes, taking inspiration from Mexico's northern indigenous culture, along with its Spanish and Arabesque heritage. I thought that I might buy one but then considered it would be a bit 'flashy' for a biker!!

Mural Of Woman Smoking Monday 28/02/2022: A popular habit in Mexico is Smoking but in the past week a law has passed hailed as a 'great achievement for public health' The General Law for Tobacco Control has banned smoking in workplaces, schools, public access areas, sporting and entertainment facilities and public transport. According to the federal Health Ministry, over one-quarter of deaths due to cancer are related to the use of tobacco. Fifteen million Mexicans smoke, and 19% of all cigarettes are contraband, which fuels the illegal trade. This maybe the law but I see many Mexican smoking their own rolled 'reefers'. It is a very engrained custom and considered a social activity.

Tuesday 01/03/12: Mexicans love to express themselves in colourful spectacle and one way of doing this is in religious festivals. The conquistadors introduced the tradition along with all its other folk religious celebrations in the early colonial period. These 'festivals' were a time to set aside social conventions, including subservience to crown and church. In the past, masks and costumes, provided anonymity and allowed the disenfranchised to make fun of political and religious conventions and the authorities themselves.

Pochos DancersIn the late 17th century government prohibited gatherings and by the 18th, they were mostly eliminated in the cities, where enforcement was strongest, but not so much in isolated rural communities. With the country's independence in the 19th century celebrations re-surfaced and can now be found in about 225 central and southern Mexican communities. These events are very local, with traditions distinct to each town or small region. Dances and musical styles, especially with wind instruments, dominate. They may involve bullfighting, charreada (rodeo), horse racing, story re-enactments and even fishing tournaments. Many focus on parades and dances in the streets with participants dressed in costumes influenced by local traditions, with bull-themed ones in Veracruz and monkey-themed in Chiapas.

Wednesday 02/03/2022: Nothing more to report this log. Russians now surrounding Kiev so pray for the people there. Stay safe if you can. Luck and love from Cathy and myself.


Scary Face Murial MORE WRITING

Friday 04/02/2022: After the extract I posted last week on the log of impressions of Bogota I have been asked to include another more favourable for the city from my up-coming book. This time to make people aware that Bogota is much, much more than the depressing drug situation this snippet reveals a side which reflects the exoticness of this historic, cosmopolitan city.

To say Bogota is lively and colourful is an understatement. It is not just the vibrant locals, the constant street bands and performers, the pedestrian outdoor café areas, the designated cycling lanes for the weekend family groups and the beautiful architecture, museums and parks. This is not the only source of colour. The whole city, including the motorway retaining walls are filled with giant murals and artwork. We are not talking low level graffiti here, or tagging your signature on a dirty wall with a spray can, or on the side of a train or underpass. That is vandalism in my eyes. For vandalism to change to art, it takes one ingredient; talent, and the artists in Bogota have it in bucket loads. We are talking about immense paintings, often six or seven storeys high, unapologetically dominating a whole block of the city. It is beautiful, expertly and carefully executed, artwork. It varies from detailed seascapes, to huge traditional Indian portraits of hard working, wizened old country men and women, to vast revolutionary scenes, the detail staggering throughout. Some are stencil like, in the tradition of Banksy, the famous elusive English fellow!! These are a level above.

MojigangaMonday 07/02/2022: To move onto an aspect of art work in Mexico, that is as popular as murals in Bolivia, and which is an important aspect of the country's tradition I come to Mexico's gigantic puppets, a craft woven into its culture. Known as mojigangas They are not puppets in the true sense but are more like manequins.

Spanish colonists brought the light-hearted giant puppets into Mexico as a folk religious tradition. The word comes from Spain, where it originally referred to a kind of street theatre often associated with religious processions, included to provide comic relief from hum-drum life. This use can be found in Mexico. Mojiganga events occur with the celebration of the patron saint, La Virgen del Rosario (the Virgin of the Rosary), in September. Depending on the area and the purpose of the puppet, the forms that mojigangas take vary widely. They can include busty blondes in revealing attire, brides, grooms, Mexican historical figures, devils, angels, pre-Hispanic priests, modern indigenous people, Mexican cultural figures and occasionally homages to famous non-Mexican persons. In San Miguel the most famous mojigangas are those created for weddings, and this is the case in Oaxaca, our state. Another common use is as a means of attracting customers to a business, often in Mexican restaurants and tourist shops. You will see colourful 'puppets' standing outside the entrance to cafes and souvenir outlets. Mojigangas also appear in some Day of the Dead ceremonies, mixing with the eerie masks prominent in the celebration of the dead.

Elspeth Beard Wednesday 09/02/202: Bernard, our photograph friend has returned to Mexico so will be doing some photoshoots in the next few says. We have one planned with Elspeth Beard (Google her +motorcycles) who is here and for those of you not in the know Elspeth Beard is an architect and motorcyclist. In the mid-eighties, mid-way in her architecture course, Elspeth became the first British woman to ride a motorcycle around the world. Her trip started in the US after she had shipped her bike over from the UK. She then set off on her monumental journey around the world. A fearless woman, with determination to face the dangers that she encountered on the adventure.

Returning to the UK she completed her studies and redesigned Munstead Tower in Godalming, winning the 1994 Royal Institute of British Architects award for South East England. She owns an architectural firm based in a converted stable in Godalming, Surrey.

Elspeth Beard | Lone Rider | Round the World Motorcyclist... www.elspethbeard.com

Friday 11/02/2022: Some strange creatures exist in this world and one such can be found in Mexico, the Salamander. As legend has it, the axolotl is the Aztec god of fire and lightning, Xolotl, who disguised himself as a salamander to avoid being sacrificed. The Mexican Axolotl is impressive as it has the ability to regenerate lost limbs and even part of its brain. Their youthful traits include feathery gills sprouting from their heads like a mane, webbed feet, a dorsal fin that runs down the length of their body, and a tail. Though they keep their gills, adult axolotls also have functional lungs and can breathe through their skin. Their mouths are upturned in a permanent Mona Lisa smile. When it's time to eat Axolotls suck in their prey, which includes crustaceans, molluscs, insect eggs and small fish. Unlike other salamanders that undergo metamorphosis, axolotls (pronounced ACK-suh-LAH-tuhl) never outgrow their larval, juvenile stage, a phenomenon called neoteny.

AxolotlAll salamanders need to keep their skin wet, which they do not shed unlike other amphibians. Colouration varies and albinism is relatively common. Since the early part of this century efforts have been made to protect the salamanders as they are threatened by depletion of their natural habitat. Mexican researchers are working to ensure that they survive and to maintain their existence as part of the culture of the country. There are salamanders near where we are but the Axolotls are rare, Still looking!! Please click the link to gain more knowledge of this strange creature.

Red Roses Monday 14/02/2022: Valentine's Day and as in many areas of the world Mexicans are big fans of a holiday, or basically any event that requires holding a celebration and Valentine's Day is one of Mexico's favoured festivities. Valentine's Day is commercial so to celebrate February 14 like a true Mexican you need to buy red roses and balloons as gifts to loved ones. It is officially titled El Día del Amor y la Amistad, The Day of Love and Friendship. That means that if you want to celebrate like a Mexican, you shouldn't focus all your attention on your beloved, but rather on your friends and family too. I am off to buy a rose and a balloon!!

Barbara Wednesday 16/02/2022: Have to confess couldn't find a rose or balloon vendor anywhere. They had probably sold out. Off to an interview with Barbara for Oaxaca Magazine. She is 75, super energetic and totally mad. She was in demonstrations against Vietnam when 19, ran away to Guatemala, lived there 10 years and now been in Mexico for 30 plus years. Let you know how it goes.

Friday 18/02/2022: Have been negotiating extensions to our visas but as we have been here for nearly two years the immigration authorities suggested we apply for citizenship. After deliberation we took that route and we are now certified!! We can enjoy the privileges of Mexicans and can travel freely. We can now also get vaccinated against Covid-19. That's a benefit as we will be able to travel legally to other countries including the UK. All for now. Salamanders to you from a pair of Mexicans.

Residency

WRITING TO THE RESCUE

Friday14/01/2022: I realise that it has been sometime since my last log as life is at a standstill at the moment. Seem to have said that previously but it is a fact that we do not have much prospect of moving on. Our plans to establish bike trails through the more dramatic and challenging areas of Mexico are on hold as like in many parts of the world the coronavirus epidemic has curtailed movement here and prevented many from travelling in the country. So I have been focussing on completing my next book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat' to be published in June this year. In fact writing has been keeping me sane and as a taster of the book I include here a short extract from the first chapter...

It is a very strange scene when you are standing at a bus stop in Bogota, Colombia, talking to a completely naked prostitute, about the best market to get fresh fruit and vegetables. This was the position I found myself in, on only my third day in South America and would eventually lead to a violent street mugging for Cathy and I. Not an ideal start. I absolutely love Bogota. I still do. We have all heard the saying "Well at least he's not boring," when talking about a friend; who we like, but who is a bit unpredictable, off the wall, or tends to get into trouble a bit too often. Dodgy as hell, but lovable; so we tend to make excuses for them or give a bit more leeway for their eccentricities. That friend is Bogota.

Dead BeatFormerly known as Santa Fe de Bogota it is the largest city, the capital and administrative centre of the wonderful jewel that is Colombia. This country gets my heart racing with excitement even writing its name down. It is insanely interesting if you veer away from the four, standard streets that tourists flock to. There is no denying that away from these sanitised, foreigner friendly areas, it has an edge to it and that's putting it mildly. The clichés are true, so let's get that part over with. Colombia, like Brazil has a serious problem with crystal meth, crack-cocaine and cocaine. Many of the problems stem directly from these addictions and it is a noticeable black cloud in many areas. Addicts are on many street corners and parks and underpasses. But Bogota is so, so much more than that.


I hope that this short extract gets you interested enough to purchase a copy when on sale and to be more forthright in my advertising below is a blurb from the cover.

'Traverse the mighty Ghost Road, meet a naked Polish cameraman, scale volcanoes, meet a mafia cartel godfather, fight your way through the Darien Gap. Experience crashes, broken bones, landslides, Love Motels and Guinea Pig dinners. Savour the beauty of South America on this Rollercoaster motorcycle adventure and fraternise with characters from the fringes of society.'

Enough of advertising and onto some more info on things Mexican

Sebastianne Sculpture Tuesday 18/01/2022: As you know I have posted several photographs of street art which is so colourful and attractive to be found in almost every town and village in South America and is prolific in Mexico. But there is an alternative art movement known as Ruptura that provides a highly visible break with the muralism of Diego Rivera and others, towards art that is more international, abstract, apolitical and uses scientific features of modernism. One artist known as Sebastián has created monumental sculptures in over a dozen Mexican cities following the Ruptura ideals. Many of the pieces are enormous, meant to make an impression on those visiting the city, either as they enter or as they tour important areas. College campuses, corporations and other organizations see value in his work to make statements about themselves and their aims.

Execution Of Walker Friday 21/01/2022: On to something historical featuring William Walker a U.S. physician, lawyer, journalist, and privateer looking to conquer lands in the Americas in the years between the Mexican-American War and the American Civil War. At one point, with a group of like-minded men, he briefly controlled parts of Sonora and Baja California. The U.S government opposed such activity since it was in violation of the U.S. Neutrality Act, but William Walker ignored the ruling. He and 45 men left San Francisco in October of 1853 and made it to Guaymas to land-grab. Authorities in Mexico City were aware of the illegal infiltration but were slow to respond. After some months a contingent of 250 Mexican soldiers and U.S. military arrested Walker and his 'gang' and were taken to San Francisco to stand trial for violating the Neutrality Act. However, because of the popularity of what he did, the jury at his trial acquitted him in just eight minutes. A free man again, he then tried his luck in Nicaragua, becoming 'president' of that country for 10 months before being forced to leave. He then tried his luck in Honduras in 1860, but the British did not take kindly to such activity close to territory under their command. He was captured and turned over to the Honduran authorities. He was executed that year at the age of 36. Thus ended a brief and buccaneering career which is romanticised in a film starring Ed Harris.

Tirantula in Hand Tuesday 25/01/2022: Once more onto a creature I have mentioned several times in my logs, tarantulas! These have been in the news recently for a good reason. At one time the tarantula population of Mexico was diminishing at a rapid rate which was due to illegal activity. A female only reaches sexual maturity after 10 years, and it would take 20 years for a young tarantula to reach full size. In the early 2020s trafficking tarantulas was widespread, and you could find illegal Mexican tarantulas in the UK, Europe and even in India. You could buy them in big-name department stores! Today, you are very unlikely to find an illegal Mexican tarantula in the market anywhere. This change has come about because today the United States and Canadian markets are saturated with tarantulas raised in captivity, provided by five or six tarantula sanctuaries in Mexico. One such is run by Snr Orozco whose sanctuary is located in the hills of Pinar de la Venta, just outside Guadalajara. From here, he ships legal, certified tarantulas all over the world and also receives visitors, who typically arrive feeling somewhat twitchy, only to leave charmed by the big and hairy, but gentle, arachnids they are able to hold in their hands for a few precious moments. So keep smiling there may be one of his colony, or cluster, as a group is called, nearby.

Pretty In PinkTuesday 01/02/2022: To start a new month on to another creature that might be more appealing. Would you believe that flamingos are vain? Yes! They are. They actually dye their sun-faded feathers to remain in the pink. When flamingos preen, they care for their feathers, cleaning out accumulated dirt and parasites and they add colour. To apply their feather dye, flamingos rub their cheeks on a gland above their tail called the uropygial gland, which generates a colour-carrying serum. The birds then rub their serum-coated cheeks on their feathers and sway their necks to make sure the dye stick. All that effort is aimed at attracting potential mates. Flamingos actively work to maintain their blushed necks throughout their lengthy display season as they prepare to mate otherwise they'd have pale feathers. So now you know pink is the colour of love, love, love all you need is.....

OK! So that concludes the log for this week and hope to bring you more information that you can astound friends and families with during a lull in conversation. Tarantula soup and beans from Cathy and spencer.

P.S. there is a new podcast to listen to on the radio section or click on the link below and go to the listen icon at the top and then to Moment Collectors / Manicom and scroll through to the 36:30 spot. Here you will find an interview relating to our recent exploits... < CLICK HERE FOR PODCAST >


MORE FACTS AND FIGURES

This log has been delayed as circumstances have prevented any action over the past couple of weeks. We are still in Mexico and both Cathy and I have covid-19 so not feeling too bright at the moment. Mine is long Covid and am now feeling very weak and tired. Nothing much to do about it. Not really been moving far and even walking is a strain so for the log have to fall back on providing some more information on Mexico. But firstly hope everyone had a super Christmas and all the best for 2022.

Pilgrims In Guadalupe Saturday 01/01/2022:
Yes, another year and recently the winter solstice has been celebrated by indigenous Mexicans who have held onto their ceremonies and rituals dating back to before the Spanish conquest. Often considered to be the symbolic death and rebirth of the sun, the winter solstice was, and is, an important time in many indigenous cultures, one that's often celebrated with festivals and rituals. In Mexica beliefs, the day marks the rebirth of Huitzilopochtli, the lord of the sun and of combat and has been celebrated for hundreds of years.

Sunday 02/01/2022: At this time many Mexicans set out on a pilgrimage to honour the Virgin of Guadalupe in commemoration of the Virgin Mary— the mother of Jesus and a very important saint in the Roman Catholic religion—who appeared to a man named Juan Diego in Mexico in 1531 and her image has become a national symbol of Mexico.. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to Juan Diego, a man of Aztec descent who had converted to Christianity, on December 9, 1531. She asked Juan Diego to build a shrine on the spot where she had appeared, Tepeyac Hill, now in a suburb of Mexico City.

Mexican Christmas TreeThe local bishop demanded that Juan Diego provide a sign that would prove the Virgin Mary had really appeared to him before he would agree to build a church on the site. The Virgin Mary appeared to Juan Diego again on December 12 and miraculously showed him where to pick roses, even though it was winter, to take to the bishop as proof that she had really appeared. Juan Diego collected the roses in his cloak, went before the bishop, and then opened his cloak to show him the roses. Dozens of roses fell to the floor and his cloak had a beautiful picture of the Virgin Mary inside. The bishop was stunned by the miracle and ordered that a church be built in her honour.

Mind The RavenThis year 3.5 million pilgrims made their way to the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City over 12 days to pay their respects to the Virgin of Guadalupe 490 years after her appearance. The numbers were well down because of Covid compared to 2018 and 2019 when almost triple that number converged on the pilgrimage site. Elsewhere indigenous artisans in Nacajuca, Tabasco, created a special Christmas tree decorated with 500 sombreros and other artisanal products As well as the sombreros, the 10-meter tree was adorned with 100 bags, traditional fans and drums, all of which were made by artisans from nearby Mayan towns.

Wednesday 05/01/2022: Not a good day for me as my mother would have been 80 today but as you know she died suddenly just over a year ago so memories flood back. Her short story book is now in The British Library so to commemorate her I include a pic to mark the event.

Butterflies Thursday 06/01/2022: Where we are in Escondido there are several species of butterflies but recently in El Rosario Mexico's largest butterfly sanctuary was opened to visitors.10000 people visited the sanctuary in just two weeks under strict control. In the neighbouring municipality of Zitácuaro, indigenous Mazahua residents of the town of Cresencio Morales have created a "forest guard" to protect monarch butterflies from illegal logging. Groups of 20 armed residents take turns to patrol to protect the Monarch Butterfly Guards fire warning shots to let would-be loggers know they are there and that cutting down trees won't be tolerated. Both illegal logging and climate change are the main factors in a 26% reduction in the number of monarch butterflies so the forest guards are determined to defend their habitat. It would be great if other wild life areas were protected in a similar way.

Friday 07/01/2022: Lastly for this not very invigorating log we have been searching for a 'cheap' place to stay as our incarceration is interminable. Spied a movable residence of colourful appearance so under negotiation. Fried bananas in pepper sauce. Cathy and Spencer.

Happy Home


Estamos Hartas MEXICAN FACTS AND FIGURES

Saturday 04/12/2021: I am afraid I do not have a great deal to write this week as it is very much doom and gloom here as Coronavirus has put paid to adventure riding. It is a great pity that Cathy and I have been prevented from continuing on our circumnavigations. It has become expensive and frustrating and has halted us in our quests. I therefore apologise for the lack of any exciting information and will have to fall back on providing some more facts and figures on Mexico which has become our unavoidable home. But I start with a super poster 'Estamo Hartas' which means 'We are not too good'. Suits us!!

Donaji by Isis Rodrigues Monday 06/12/2021: Mexico has many legends and folk tales and one of them says that long ago a shepherd found a wild lily growing in what today is San Agustín de las Juntas, a settlement near Oaxaca City. When digging to collect the flower by its root, he discovered the head of Donají, a Zapotec princess. This beautiful, decapitated, royal head is today the city's official emblem. The state's name comes from huaxyácac 'in the nose of the guaje plants' in the Náhuatl language. A native tree with white flowers and red and green pods (the three colors of the Mexican flag, before that flag even existed) grows in the region and conceals tasty seeds. For over 10,000 years, a wide variety of indigenous peoples spread and flourished in these diverse environments: The Zapotec, Mixtec, Mazatec, Mixe, Zoque, as well as Afro-Mexicans, mestizos and Spanish thrive together in this area. Today, more than 4,000 indigenous communities in Oaxaca speak 157 dialects, making up 43% of Mexico's languages. More than 8,400 species of plants, 40% of all the plants in Mexico, and 4,500 species of animals, make Oaxaca Mexico's most bio-culturally diverse region.

Ankylosaurus being hunted by aztecs Wednesday 08/12/2021: I have mentioned dinosaurs several times in my logs as Mexico is their 'home'. A newly discovered species of ankylosaur had a bizarre club on its tail unlike that of any previously known ankylosaur. It has a flat surface and sharp blades along the sides at the back end of Stegouros elengassen, a species of ankylosaur that lived between 72 million and 75 million years ago, which strongly resembles an Aztec war club called a macuahuitl. Its flat tail weapon is unlike that of any other dinosaur. The club is depicted in a 16th century illustration, a flat wooden weapon with sharp obsidian blades along the sides.

Giant SlothFriday 10/12/2021: On our journeys around Africa and South and Central America we have been excited by the variety of wild animals we have seen in their natural habitat. One such were the sloths we saw in the jungles of the Amazon, moving incredibly quickly through the tree branches, about one foot per Hour! Now we hear of Giant Ground sloths! Modern sloths are dedicated vegetarians, but at least one of their massive Ice Age cousins were meat eaters, when they had the chance. Darwin's ground sloth — which could grow to over 3 meters long and weigh as much as 2,000 kilograms — may have been opportunistic scavengers. Darwin's sloth could have managed to ingest already-killed meat. The sloth (Mylodon darwinii) of South America may have been a sometime omnivore but research has indicated that sloths in the distant past had jaws adapted for hunting or powerful enough for chewing and tearing.

Codex MendozaAs mentioned before the Aztecs were skilful pictogram recorders so I give you another example. Try to decipher what is depicted in this one. Should not be too difficult. Discuss with adults and children.

Sunday 12/12/2021: Lastly this week just to show the doubters, if there are any, that we are in Mexico and sometimes get on the road and out of Escondido. Some roads are challenging and hazards include sharp bends where you are likely be overtaken by trucks driven like Max Verstappen. Bully beef and carrot cake. Cathy and Spencer.

Curva Peligrosa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STILL STRANDED!

Thursday 25/11/2021:
Looks like we are now caught up in the next fight against the spread of the coronavirus as Mexico has detected its first case of the omicron variant. It was detected in a 51-year-old South African citizen who arrived in Mexico on November 21.The person developed mild COVID-19 symptoms six days later and was admitted to a private hospital in Mexico City. The electron microscope image shows the virus emerging from the surface of cells grown at a laboratory in Rocky Mountain, Montana. Actually looks like demented artist's work.

Mexican MarathonSunday 28/11/2021: Despite the threat of Covid-19 spreading the Mexico Marathon was held and Mexican runners came first and second led by Darío Castro and Eloy Sánchez, both of whom are soldiers in the Mexican army, who crossed the finish line together to return Mexico to the podium after a 12-year absence ahead of third-place finisher Rodgers Ondati of Kenya. Castro won the race with a time of 2:14.51 and Sánchez finished just a second after. Ondati recorded a time of 2:17.31.The last Mexican to win the marathon was Edilberto Méndez Hernández from Tlaxcala in 2009. More than 15,000 runners lined up early on Sunday morning outside the Olympic University Stadium in Coyoacán, in the south of Mexico City, for the 42-kilometer race to the historic centre, ending at the city's central square, the zócalo. By world standards the winning time is not particularly fast but the altitude and pollution of Mexico city are factors that prevent athletes from achieving fast times. I hope that the large number of entrants do not catch the new Covid-19 variant as Mexico does not have a high number of vaccinated.

Tuesday 30/11/2021: The last log included a short extract from my next book on the circumnavigation of South America. I continue this on the scourge of the proliferation of rubbish in South and Central America...

Hundreds of young boys and girls, scraps of material tied over their mouths, to deal with the stench, scrabbled through the waste, trying to salvage anything of value. They are known as catadores, and survive by fishing out plastics, metals, cardboard, and other recyclables from the dump, to sell to middlemen. They rummage through detritus, knee deep in reeking mud, watched by massive vultures, who loiter and hop around the children, angrily grabbing scraps of food that are uncovered. There were rats, cockroaches, mosquitos and huge groups of flies, bunched like some obscene cloud, above the dump. None of the 'workers', were older than fifteen. None of them had protective clothing. They were in rags, and flip flops, many getting injured. Nothing looked of value. We waved, as we always do, but there was no reaction from any of them. Blank, grim looks.

ScavengersThe problem of rubbish disposal is something I saw throughout Africa and to a lesser extent, in South America, and to a great extent, Central America. Peru and Guatemala are covered in plastic. Much of Africa is covered in open, landfill sites, with plastic bag trees, children swarming everywhere, and vultures in equal numbers. As humans, we are supposed to be at the top of the food chain. If our children are rummaging through other people's waste, we are far from being civilised, and at the top of the food chain. There are a staggering 20 000 children living on landfill sites in Brazil. Brasilia, the capital has acquired a feature on its land scape, that should be a national disgrace. A few miles from architect Oscar's, world renowned buildings, stands the largest open garbage dump site in the world. It is growing rapidly, and at present, wait for it, is more than 300 acres, roughly the size of 300 football fields. We know we have gone wrong somewhere, in society, when there are street demonstrations by the 'garbage children', to allow them to keep working in these cesspits.


Highline Walk I know many of my readers are into adventure sports and daring-do so I had to include the next snippet which may amaze. A German highline walker broke two world records this week with an aerial crossing of the Sumidero Canyon in Chiapas while blindfolded!! Alexander Schulz, 30, began the tense 800-meter high crossing on the north side of the canyon near the community of El Triunfo at 8:00 a.m., slowly walking the 1,720-meter-long band in 4,080 steps. Look closely at the pic to spot him. Shivery! When he arrived at the Los Chiapa viewpoint on the other side an hour and a quarter later, Governor Rutilio Escandón Cadenas was there to receive him. Schulz is the sport's standout figure and already held a long list of world records before his latest feat, which was organized by the state Tourism Ministry. So for my next challenge I will try to do the same upside-down on my hands.

Wednesday 01/11/2021: Another month and still stranded in Mexico but looking back on my adventure riding covering and filming the Dakar Rally was one of the best days of our lives. This coming Dakar I have no less than five friends competing so am super excited. "Scared is what you're feeling. Brave is what you're doing." Don't stop. Adventure quote of the week. Pleased to announce I will be a Headline Presenter on the main stage at the Adventure Bike Rider Festival 2022 in the UK. I will also be launching my new book 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrists Hat'. The world's top adventure motorcyclists, and 5000+ others will be having a blast. Book your tickets and come on down, and say hello to me and Cathy Nel. Respect and top weekend to you all.

Adventure Bike Rider Festival 2022

And finally something to cogitate. No you cannot eat it. Also check Photo Archive for more Pics.

Carl Sagan

The Aztecs: Lost Civilisations by Francis F. Berdan MEXICO IS WORTH IT

Wednesday 10/11/2021: Apart from the arts and crafts Mexico has a long and fascinating history and, as you know, a dynamic part is related to the Aztecs. A recent book 'The Aztecs Lost Civilization' provides interesting information on the culture of their empire.

The book focuses on people as they engage in farming, marketing, marrying, raising children, healing wounds, participating in rituals and fighting on the battlefield. The Aztec religion was multidimensional rich and complex. The Aztecs worshipped many gods and goddesses, each with their own temples and priests. They recited myths and performed frequent ceremonies with processions, offerings, dances, music and song. Some of these ceremonies included human and animal sacrifices to the sun god Huitzilopochtli - for light and warmth and for the all-important growth of maize. They worshiped the rain and water deities, Tláloc and Chalchiuhtlicuel. The Aztecs had many activities including craft and textile production. All women in the empire learned to spin and weave and to make about 300,000 items of clothing delivered annually to their Aztec overlords

Cougar in Oaxaca Friday 12/11/2021: Mexico has an abundant wild life, but alas is threatened by human encroachment as in many other parts of the world. Recently a cougar surprised residents in Tamazulápam del Espíritu Santo, a Mixe community in our Oaxaca region. The 2.5 meter cat was first sighted in the undergrowth of an avocado tree, and later captured by local authorities who released it in an area of woodland. Police and residents struggled with the cougar for a few minutes to restrain it. A video posted on social media showed the bound animal being pulled from the property on its back. The feisty feline was loaded, with some difficulty, onto a police pickup truck, where it attempted to free itself by leaping to escape the vehicle, despite being shackled. It was the first time a cougar related incident had been reported in the area, despite their natural habitat being only one kilometre away. We were near the area recently but Conway cougar did not appear.

Jaguar Fishing Tuesday 16/11/2021: Continuing the big cat theme and as reported in a previous log a jaguar was killed recently as it had attacked a young cattle boy but not all jaguars threaten human beings, in fact they often fish for food. Jaguars (Panthera onca), are usually territorial loners that hunt on land, live in a wide array of habitats, ranging from North American deserts to grasslands and tropical rainforests in Central and South America. Mexico has its own jaguar population and is a protected species as long as they do not encroach on peopled areas. They inhabit immense tropical wetlands and often fish for food including aquatic reptiles, such as caiman and turtles.

Thursday 18/11/2021: I am sure you are all wanting to know why ducklings swim in line after their mother! NO! Oh well don't read the next paragraph. It's all to do with Dynamics, as you know. By paddling in an orderly line behind their mother, baby ducks can take a ride on the waves in her wake. That boost saves the ducklings energy. Duckling DynamicsMeasurements of duckling metabolism shows that the youngsters save energy when swimming behind a leader. Using computer simulations of water waves, naval architect Zhiming Yuan of the University of Strathclyde in Glasgow, Scotland, and colleagues, calculated that a duckling cruising in just the right spot behind its mother gets an assist. When a duckling swims on its own, it kicks up waves in its wake, using energy that would otherwise send it surging ahead. That wave drag resists the duckling's motion. But ducklings in line experience 158 percent less wave drag than when swimming alone, the researchers calculated, meaning the duckling gets a push instead. Now you can amaze your friends at the next dinner party.

Now to something unpleasant to contrast with animal magic. We share this planet with others who live unlike animals in squalor and misery. This is a short extract from my next book recounting what we discovered when leaving the Amazon jungle and riding the amazing Ghost Road.

After dealing with the brutal, but unspoilt and pristine, BR319, Ghost Road we drove into a hell, made by man. After hundreds of kilometres of red jungle road, nothing but the bike, Cathy and I, and the Amazon animals. We were jarringly reminded, that there was another animal in the world; man. The 'first contact' with man we had, was the smell and taste of burning plastic as we rode straight into a huge plume of dense, black smoke. Our eyes were smarting and it was difficult to breathe. We turned a slippery, red mud corner and ahead of us were kilometres of garbage, in a huge clearing in the jungle. On the left hand side of the road, the whole area was on fire, tonnes of rotting, melting waste, the smoke reaching high into the sky, and blocking out the sun, in a perfect post-apocalyptic scene. On the right hand side, the dump was fifteen foot high with filthy refuse.

To be continued...


Loo Paper Not Included Monday 22/11/2021: We are making plans for biking tours in Mexico as reported in the last log. All going well and hoping to finalise some details in the coming weeks. The tours will start from Oaxaca or Mexico City, not resolved yet but we have contacts in both cities. As you know we are back in Escondido and a fair number of Americans have managed to escape the States to take a holiday here. Unfortunately some bring a drug habit with them and are therefore occasionally robbed losing their drug money. Generally Escondido and the coast is a peaceful and friendly location for a relaxed holiday.As you know we are on a limited budget, very limited, so here our latest resting place. Of course there are beach 'residences' which are more suitable for others.

Love Eternal Tuesday 23/11/2021: Look into nature, and then you will understand everything better. Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads. The sun, with all those planets revolving around it, and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of bananas, and a papaya: as if it had nothing else in the universe to do! Fruit for breakfast and showers on the road. Nothing better.

Peace, love and respect from me, and Cathy Nel. Fresh waterfall shrimps, in garlic butter, salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lime, for all! Chopped chillies also, if that's your thing. My website, has been going 12 years, and had more than a million visitors, so thanks for that... cool bunch you are!

P.S. Check out the < photo archive > for some interesting pics.

MapSTILL HOPING FOR BETTER DAYS

Saturday 30/10/2021: Have completed our tour of prospective route for adventure riders. Plan is to take groups on 10 day trips through off-road areas to get a taste of 'real' riding and a feel for the country. Most of you will know that we were stopped in our tracks because of Covid, and we have been in Mexico for over two years. The bonus of this is that we have covered 30 000 kilometres in Mexico alone and know it well. The decision has been made to do a Mexican tour, to open up this incredible part of the country, and some totally unique routes, to all aspiring adventure riders. It will be a combination of medium and advanced riding. Sorry, no novices. We have actually done the ten day to twelve day route, three times already, to iron out the details. The map is simply to provide a location in Mexico. Detailed map to follow later.

Into The  Bush The tour will start in Mexico City, where the first day will be checking out the City, picking up the bikes and an orientation meeting. I was going to say initiation, but that sounds hectic. On day two we will head to Puebla, riding between two famous volcanoes. From there we will visit Mitla and head into the mountains west. We will make it down to Acapulco on dirt roads. From there we will hit the coastal route from Acapulco, all the way to Huatulco, fishing and diving. From there we head into the jungle and coffee region, to ride more than four hundred twisties and hairpin bends, changing altitude from Sea level to 3000 metres. From 32 degrees to 5. Then into the pine forests, up to the coast at Vera Cruz, then onwards into Copper Canyon. This will be canyon riding for advanced riders. The rest can take a magical train tour. Then back to Mexico City. 4000 kilometres. This route will be adapted and changed over the next few months, as we do it again. All you will have to concentrate on is enjoying the riding and loving Mexico. We will do the rest. Added bonus is that I have access to a Motocross track in Puerto Escondido, so can help you all become godly riders. Won't be easy, but manageable.

Monday 01/11/2021: Another month and we are back in Escondido and I am waiting for a long delayed operation on my delicate parts that I injured in a crash a good time ago. Now desperately in need of relief from painful affliction. Not funny!

Bat Visitor Tuesday 02/12/2021: Surgeon did not turn up! Received an apology said The Day of the Dead had his full attention so not too re-assuring. Hope he doesn't wear a death mask during the op, if and when. Also mentioned bats in my last log and met one face to face in our room hanging on a curtain rail. Tried to get rid of the beast and after a drawn out struggle with it flying around demented, as bats do, threw a towel over it when it stunned itself by flying into a mirror. So much for radar equipment! Got it out still stunned and 'blinded' in the sunlight. Quick photo as it recovered hanging on a tree. Bats can be batty at times as it tried to fly back into our room.

Wednesday 03/11/2021: Having mentioned one creature another popped in for a social visit. Yes! You guessed it. Not another spider! Yes this time two. Jumping spiders. Thought you might like to know a little more about them as followers of the log are beginning to request info on what to look out for in Mexico. Actually don't think it's particularly for insects. Anyway here some interesting facts about arachnids, specifically jumping spiders which I first discovered in Kenya at the age of nought. Jumping SpiderThe eyes of spiders unlike bees and flies, which have compound eyes that merge information from hundreds or thousands of lenses into a single, pixelated mosaic image, the jumping spider has camera-type eyes, similar to those of humans. Each of the spider's eyes has a single lens that focuses light onto a retina. The principal eyes — the big forward-facing ones that just beg us to anthropomorphize (long word for your delectation)  have incredibly high resolution for creatures that are usually between 2 and 20 millimetres long. Their eyesight is sharper than any other spider's and gives them the ability to stalk and pounce on prey with impressive precision. Their sight is comparable to that of much larger animals like pigeons, cats and elephants and nearly as good as a human with 20/20 vision. But that sharp vision covers only a small portion of the spider's field of view. Each of the two principal eyes sees a narrow, boomerang-shaped strip of the world. Together they form an "X" of high-resolution colour vision. An adjacent pair of smaller, less sharp eyes scans a wide field of view in black and white, watching for things that need the attention of the big high-resolution eyes. A jumping spider's visual world is not so different from ours. The animal's principal eyes and first set of secondary eyes together do basically the same job as our two eyes. Like the spider, we focus our attention on a relatively small area and largely ignore the rest until something catches our attention. So if you want to avoid jumping spiders keep still but you might have to remain prone for some time..

Remembrance Day Friday 05/11/2021: It is coming up to Remembrance Day in many parts of the world for those who have died in war. In England it is marked by communities making red poppies and placing them on public places. My father has sent me some photos of those in his Kent village. The church and other areas have been decked with poppies that have been hand made from wool and assembled together. Here are two images of examples, others are much larger, but these provide a feel for them. One is a wheel on the wall of the local pub, aptly named the Red Lion and the other is a hat for the red letter box. Typically British. Also for those who would like to know the origin of why red poppies are displayed use google but I include here a link to the famous poem 'In Flanders Fields' which is an evocative memorial. Also for me November 14th is a day to remember my mother, Wendy, who died on this day one year ago. Thinking of you Mother.

Monday 08/11/2021: OK. Another week and hopefully operation soon. Will not be able to ride for six weeks if the surgeon appears. More difficult to get things arranged than capturing Vampire bats. Our resting place pictured in the Photo Archive!! Fried mangos and peanut butter. Cathy and Spencer.

Popocatapetl ON TOUR

Wednesday 13/10/2021: As stated in the previous log we are on the road scouting a route for adventure bikers who are looking for some challenging off-road riding. We are on the non-tourist side of the volcano Popocatapetl, Which is over 17000 ft high and continues to be active. We are ready for a quick exit as recently it erupted violently... < you can check it out on this youtube link >

Now staying in a Love Motel. Strangest one of all. Some seductive décor provides the right vibes...

Ready BabyThe name Popocatépetl comes from the Nahuatl words popoca Nahuatl pronunciation: [po?po?ka] "it smokes" and tepetl Nahuatl pronunciation: [?tepe?tl] "mountain", meaning Smoking Mountain. The volcano is also referred to by Mexicans as El Popo. Legend says that many years ago, a villager met an old man on the slopes of the mountain, who introduced himself as Gregorio Chino Popocatépetl. Gregorio was a personification of the spirit of the volcano, and communicates with the locals to warn them if an eruption is about to happen. Every March 12, the day of San Gregorio, the locals bring flowers and food to the volcano to celebrate the saint. We went up to 3550 metres but the weather was atrocious. No problem with altitude but only glimpsed the volcano. Staying on a day because better weather predicted. Another day sorted for tour. Six of the ten days. The volcano did not appear out of the mist. Pity!

Maya And The ThreeFriday 15/10/2021: Just been informed that the film director Jorge Gutierrez has created an animated series for Netflix titled 'Maya and the Three' which tells the story of Maya, a warrior princess in a fantasy world. The magical story's setting is based on Aztec, Mayan and Inca mythology, as well as modern day Caribbean culture.

Gutiérrez created the story with a strong female lead that honours Mexican and Latin American culture. He described characters like Maya as "super important, because Hispanic characters and Mexican women in the history of Hollywood have been hyper-sexualized. The character of Maya represents humanity, but she comes from someone from Mexico, not just visually but also from the heart," according to the director. Having caught the promo on you tube it may seem a little frenetic but I am sure that the series will be a success and have appeal more to children than adults. For an idea of the content < click this link > or go to Netflix for all the episodes. The film critic Cristina Escobar comments, "I can't overstate the beauty of "Maya and the Three". It's a different beauty to what Anglo audiences are used to. A lot of animation is "colourful" but that word doesn't come close to describing the dense visuals of "Maya." The nine-part series layers colour, ranging from earth tones to neon, on top of texture to ensure each frame is its own work of art." Can't dispute that!

Battle Stations Sunday 17/10/2021:
I seem often to mention various wild life species in my logs so I regale you with another with the unusual name of Vinegaroon!!! This is not a monkey that loves vinegar but a scary insect that looks highly dangerous and will give you the heebie-jeebies if found in your bed at night. In Mexico it is called a vinagrillo or 'simply' Mastigoproctus giganteus giganteus by scientists. They are black, grey or brown, and up to 15 centimetres (six inches) in length, with a pair of claws that look like serious trouble. The needle-like tail, it's actually a flexible organ of touch, is used for investigative purposes and not a stinger, although it does resemble the attributes of a scorpion. I have experienced these creatures first hand under my sleeping bag!! It is called a whip scorpion in English. If you mess with a vinegaroon it will retaliate by spraying you with something that smells just like vinegar. This is a harmless mix of acetic plus caprylic acid and will not hurt you, but when sprayed into the eyes of a cat or dog it will save itself for another day. For a treat click on the link for a sight of the being that is found over a wide area, including the Southern American States. Could include a photo of the creature here but far better to view the video!!... (or check out the photo archive)

Wednesday 20/10/2021: Cathy has been on a crash diet. I personally think she has overdone it, but I am too scared to say. Looks as if she is ready for battle. Jokes aside, The Day of the Dead celebration is next week in Mexico. Everyone celebrates the memories of loved ones, and has street parties. I think it's a brilliant idea. I will celebrate my Mum. Skirting Guatemala border soon.

Saturday 23/10/2021: Day of the Dead is on 2nd November and is an annual festival dedicated to remembering lost loved ones and, yes, to mock something we fear. The underlying belief is that the dead can come back at this time to the land of the living, but it is no coincidence that it occurs at the end of the harvest, when fields die. It is a syncretism of Mesoamerican and Catholic beliefs or, more accurately, the survival of Mesoamerican beliefs about death with a Catholic veneer. It survives in two forms. The older and more "intimate" Day of the Dead is a gathering of friends and family to remember those important to them. The dead are not lamented but welcomed back as part of a family reunion. The other Day of the Dead can be found in the large festivals and parades that have grown in popularity in both Mexico and the United States.

Antique Day Of The Dead Figures

Fruits of the harvest are prominent on Day of the Dead altars, along with photographs of those being remembered and other decorations. Sugar cane is part of the harvest, but it also serves as a preservative, so candied fruits, as well as squash and sweet potatoes in syrup, are also traditional. Sugar was relatively expensive in the colonial period, so using it to make skulls and other figures acted as a kind of offering. By far, the most popular sugar figures are highly decorated skulls, generally with a space on the forehead for adding a name. That name can be of someone living or dead. If the name is of the dead, the homage is obvious, but why put the name of someone who is alive? It certainly is not to wish another person dead. The conceptual line between life and death in Mexico is thinner than in Anglo cultures. If the recipient is a child, gifting of a sugar skull serves as a lesson that death is part of life. They are more often given as tokens of affection among co-workers and adult family members. I include a pic of ancient DOD figures from Mexico Museum. See < photo archive > for others.

Mystery TourCome on Then Tuesday 26/10/2021: Continuing on our route finding we met three Wendy's today in Zapotec area, traditional Indians. Unbelievable. Never met another Wendy in my life. The only one was my mother who died on November 14th last year. Still sad days. We were searching for a Mayan Shrine and told to follow a sign. We found the sign but assume one had to know the magic words to read the directions.

Lastly Mexico is known to have some pretty good boxers and nearly had a head to head with an up-and-coming pretender to Tyson Fury's crown. Got a photo before I was donnered!

Love and respect to everyone. Chilli falafels for all.

Into The BushON THE ROAD AT LAST

Monday11/10/2021: Finally after many months of kicking heels we are back on the road but not to continue circumnavigation as intended. We are investigating possible routes for off-road rides for bikers who would like to be challenged by more difficult and exciting trips in Mexico. Doing ten day route for tour prep, so mapping accommodation, distances, on off road sections, fuel and food consumption etc. Will do tour October next year.

Tuesday 12/10/2021:
We are in Rio Seco. Had the toughest ride ever, through rivers and very rough terrain and some indigenous helped us to get through. Fell four times but OK. We found a kitten in the bush so she has been riding in Cathy's jacket for the last four days. Finally nailed some great shots for the magazine articles that I have already written.

Wednesday 13/10/2021: We met a commune of American linguists who live outside Mitla and are studying the Zatopec languages. They are also Jehovah's witnesses and believe in UFOs and can cure cancer. Weird. But the bonus is that a couple took our kitten for their 16 year old son, so she will have a good life. Apparently 3 UFOs visited the area in 1990, so they built a commune on the site awaiting the next visit.

Kitty KatToday we tried to get over the central mountains of Mexico on a rough track. We were stopped and told the road was closed. We ignored that and carried on and soon we were driving past gigantic greenhouses of Marijuana. Met up with some real traditional Zapotec Indians, no photos allowed. Rode through the Marijuana area, and confronted by gangs of guys in pick-ups and spotted rows of drying racks and sheets on the dry riverbed. Men with dogs and automatic weapons. Not your run of the mill farmers After meeting a few gun toting fellows, we didn't risk continuing as felt some threatening vibes so retraced bike steps to a safer area.

Hiding The Camara Thursday 14/10/2021: Have managed to nail four days of a mini tour, with accommodation, lunch stops, access to beautiful off road sections and use of a motocross track to give some training to inexperienced riders. We now need to plan a longer round trip from Escondido and back for a ten day tour. Riders will stay in a succession of overnight locations as in a jungle cabin, a coffee Finca, a Spanish Colonial Hotel, and a cactus desert camp. Superb variety! We will not attempt prohibited roads to reassure those of you who want to join out tours! Now working on the costs for groups. Looks like we have twelve signed up already. Have contact with an outlet in Oaxaca City to print business cards and T Shirt logo. Also a screen printer Chap from Sam Manicom so can do the T Shirts, Sweatshirts, neck scarves etc.

Mitla Ruins Saturday 16/10/2021: As mentioned we got to Mitla, and the Mesoamerican archaeological site, in Oaxaca state, southern Mexico. One of Mexico's best known ruins lies at an elevation of 4,855 ft (1,480 m) on the eastern edge of one of several cold, high valleys surrounded by the mountains of the Sierra Madre del Sur, 24 mi (38 km) southeast of Oaxaca city. It is generally believed that Mitla (Nahuatl: Place of the Dead) was established as a sacred burial site long before the Christian Era, probably by the Zapotecs, whose influence was predominant until about AD 900. Between 900 and 1500 the Mixtecs moved down from northern Oaxaca and took possession of Mitla it is the Mixtec influence that is most pronounced on the existing ruins. The Spaniards arrived at Mitla in 1521, and the first European account of the area was given by Diego García de Palacio in 1576. The photo is from archives taken in 1921.

Prohibited RoadPromised to end the Franco extracts from my book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' so here is the last episode which is longer than usual so you can get the picture!

We had agreed to go together to Sonjha's restaurant and Franco had commandeered a Combi van to get us there!!!! Franco jumped in the driver's seat with 'texting daughter' next to him. Franco assumed the predictable driving position; sunglasses, one hand on the wheel, elbow leaning on the open window. He looked pretty cool, (if it wasn't a Combi), turned, nodded to us both and said, "Vamonos."

Then all hell broke loose. He kangarooed, or Alpacaed off, at full speed, in reverse, accelerated wildly, clipping the two concrete gate bollards as we went. We careered onwards, (well backwards), only just staying on the steep hillsides, curved driveway. On we went, bouncing and jolting, directly into the main road and across it, like a bunch of demented lunatics. Cathy and I were both screaming by now. Luckily there were no cars coming in either direction, otherwise we would have been savagely side swiped and we would all be brown bread. Across the road we went and off the other side, into a rough patch of grass, the Combi bouncing violently. We all hit our heads. Then we went over a cliff. (Echo effects).That wasn't good. OK. I exaggerate. We went half way off a cliff, which makes all the difference between life and death, to be honest. Franco and texting daughter hadn't uttered a sound. As the two back wheels went off the cliff, half the Combi dangling in thin air, there was a huge wrenching bang and a metallic tearing and we came to an abrupt and aggressive stop. I was quite pleased about that. We were hanging there like a pendulum, so I wasn't totally happy. A rocking Combi on a cliff has been in movies since forever, so we acted appropriately. Cathy and I threw ourselves towards the front. With respect to Franco and text fiend, they remained super chilled. Franco was just sitting there, totally still, sunglasses on, staring straight ahead. "No problem James. It stops. Big rock." Well, he was technically correct, the swaying was not too hectic, as long as no one breathed. Franco's daughter was sitting on the edge of a precipice, in a dodgy hippie mobile, texting a friend.

"Daddy drove off a cliff and we are going to die, so I won't make it round tonight." Or something like that. Maybe she was texting her mother, "Start the Grand Opening and dinner without us, Daddy messed up." It was evident that they were not going to move, so I gently edged towards the side of the Combi and slid open the door, to get myself to safety. Sorry, I meant to get Cathy to safety. We jumped onto a rocky ledge, as the Combi slipped and went over the cliff. Sorry, that's the movies. The whole central section of the Combi was grounded on thick soil and the rear right wheel and mangled bumper were wedged against a large rounded boulder. The left wheel was a metre clear of the ground. This rock one hundred percent saved us all from meeting our Maker. It was not a sheer drop, but was steep enough and long enough for us to roll endlessly to the Pearly Gates. We were very lucky. We all scrambled carefully out of the driver's door and stood up on the main road, surveying the carnage. A pick up truck with four Electrical Contractors on the back stopped and a "Vehicle Recovery Strategy Meeting" was started in earnest. Franco was standing quietly, surveying the damage, totally unperturbed and smiling slightly. It could have been wind. He then came out with one of the most memorable and classic lines I have ever heard. I said quietly but forcefully and dramatically, "Jesus Christ Franco, what the hell happened there. I thought we were going to die."

He furrowed his brow, thought for a minute, brushed his curtains back from his eyes, spread his hands out in the air in front of him and announced glumly, "I don't know how to drive car, only Moto." I knew this could not be true but answered, "I can see that!" We both burst into crying tears of laughter. "OK. Let's fix," he said enthusiastically. Now there is no way of being polite. The four of them had absolutely no clue what they were doing. They put random rocks and logs in random places, with no appreciation of physics. They just wheel spun the Combi to hell and gone, creating deep grooves in the mud and getting into even more of a Peruvian pickle.
On The Crest Of A Wave

If you want to know how it turned out I apologise, you will have to read the book.

I include here a photo of a Combi which is an exact model of Franco's (Porkie Pies) I thought it suitable as it is an example of the remarkable art work of Angelique Grimaldos, who paints walls, surfboards, signs etc. I call it 'On the 'Crest of a Wave'. We were not on a wave but the crest of a mountain.

That's all for this log so red-hot peppers and ice cream. Love to all. Cathy and Spencer from the Andes.


Dragonfly WHAT IS LIFE?

Sunday 03/10/3021: Why the opening lines of the W H Davies poem quoted below? It seems apt that as we are at a standstill for one reason or another this poem comes to mind to relieve the stress of the past weeks and months not going anywhere, not achieving anything. Circumnavigation on the back burners. Frustrating and costly but hopefully the gods might eventually smile on us so we can pursue our quest. Click on the link for the complete poem, it is only 14 lines long. Apologies for its Britishness.

"What is this life if, full of care, We have no time to stand and stare..."

Monday 04/10/2021: Woken at 3.30 early morning by the sound of gunfire, shouting and various other loud noises from about two hundred metres away. Lasted about 40 minutes and then the sight of flames and smoke rising into the morning sky. No idea what was afoot.

Tuesday 05/10/2021: After the previous night's happenings maybe a little tame to continue with the extract from my book on the Peruvian Gigolo but started so I have to continue. In the last log I stated that I would recount how Franco nearly sent us to the other side, nearly Brown Bread (rhyming slang) but need to give you info on why I call him the Peruvian Gigolo.

Early the next morning Franco and I headed into the local town to try and pick up some inner tubes, with Franco as my jittery over excited pillion. If you are impatient or in a hurry, never travel with Franco. It took us an hour to go a couple of kilometres. Franco is unable to go past a pretty woman, full stop. "Stop Spencer, one minute, I need to talk to this girl, she likes me very much." Two minutes later, "James, sorry, this girl has problems with her moto. I need to fiddle with a few of her parts" Or something like that. Five hundred metres later, "You don't have to stop but slow down. Look at her!" Franco whistled and shouted his way down the route, but everybody knew Franco and his beaming smile. A difficult guy to get annoyed with. The girls knew full well he was filled with nonsense, but they loved him anyway and used to blush into their hands. I liked how he gently edged me out of the way when he was talking to the next girl, so that he could lean against my motorcycle in a James Dean type pose. Franco had swallowed the Dictionary of Latin American Compliments. Some might call it sexist, I just found it endearing and fun as he sat behind me, enthusiastically thinking up his next comment. "Que bonita." (How beautiful) "Estas buena." (You are hot).

"Estas hermosa, Te ves estupenda." "Eres lista," etc etc. Or more simply put and possibly a shade sexist "Buen trabajo." (Great job) Or more simply, shouting across the road, "Me gusta tu sonrisa." (I love your smile) "Eres un tesoro." (You are a treasure) These compliments were followed by air kisses and did the trick every time. Franco's behaviour, language and mannerisms were in no way typically Peruvian and possibly a great deal of romantic films had been watched. Eventually we made it to the inner tube shop but not before Franco arranged a tentative date with a street Tortilla seller with three missing toes. Now polygamy is not really common in Peru in the modern day, however, men having more than one household is tolerated and often expected amongst traditional people. Franco certainly had it covered.

Sonjha and SusanApart from the thirty-seven girlfriends loitering around each corner, we also learnt that he had another wife in Sauce, the fittingly named town his family were from. Franco had a daughter, Sonjha with Susan, the Cuy preparer but he also had three boys with Ellie, called Etni, Franco and Jim. I refuse to judge because firstly it is not my society and secondly, I have never seen a happier or closer couple. Franco's fifteen-year-old daughter, who was petite and smooth, like her mother, obviously worshipped the ground he walked on. When she wasn't texting (yes, even in the mountain villages of Peru) she would be saying "Daddy did this, daddy knows how to do that, Daddy can fix that." Great people and lovely vibe off all of them".


Next time how Franco nearly led us into the Valley of Death!

Wednesday 06/10/2021: As most of you know Mexico is the home of impressive wild life both now and in the past. In prehistoric times dinosaurs were the 'kings of the jungle' but they were not always the awesome beasts that come to mind as depicted in the film 'Jurassic Park'. The biggest beasts to walk the Earth had humble beginnings. The first dinosaurs were cat-sized, lurking in the shadows, just waiting for their moment.

The TenereThis occurred when four major waves of volcanic activity changed the climate in a geological blink of an eye, causing a 2-million-year-long rainy spell that stimulated the growth of dinosaurs. During a geologically brief rainy period 234 million to 232 million years ago, known as the Carnian Pluvial Episode, dinosaurs started evolving into the gigantic and diverse creatures that would dominate the landscape for the next 166 million years.At the same time, terrestrial plants evolved, with humidity-loving flora becoming predominant. As the rains created wet environments, turtles, large amphibians, and dinosaurs began to thrive. A later cycle of volcanic activity and environmental change starting about 184 million years ago paved the way for the biggest of all dinosaurs, long-necked sauropods, and the terrifying T-Rex to dominate the landscape. Mexico, of course, had its dinosaurs and fossil remains are still being found in the country. Just when you thought it was safe to go back into the jungle on a dodgy Tenere!

Sonjha and Susan Thursday 07/10/2021: Many ancient civilisations used a form of writing known as hieroglyphs as did the Aztec who called themselves Mexica Scribes used hieroglyphs to report on the life of a civilization, from its rulers to its battles — even its taxes. They conveyed this information in a both creative and accessible way, through vibrant colour and vivid imagery of people, animals and places. The Aztecs' writing system ranks among other great writing systems as the Egyptian hieroglyphs, Sumerian cuneiform and Japanese calligraphy. After the Spanish conquest, it suffered catastrophic losses. Documents, books and artefacts were destroyed, and gone forever from Mesoamerica. All books of Aztec writing were lost except one, the Mendoza codex, created about twenty years after the Spanish conquest of Mexico with the intent that it be seen by Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain. Hence a survival of Aztec culture and an example of their writing.

Mexican Flag Saturday 09/10/2021: On to other aspects of Mexican culture. The origin of the symbols on the centre of the country's flag, which were first adopted in 1823, are based on an Aztec Indian legend about how the country's capital, Mexico City, was founded. According to the legend, Huitzilopochtli, the Aztec's supreme deity, instructed the Aztec people to seek a place, directed by the god, for a site where an eagle sitting on a prickly pear cactus, growing on a rock in a lake, was eating a snake. It took 200 years of wandering but they finally came upon that exact scene, and the city of Tenochtitlán, that became Mexico City, was founded.

New Pass TimeThe paddles (nopales) of the cactus are a part of traditional Mexican cuisine, used in stews, tacos and many other foods; the fruit is the tuna, also known as pitaya or prickly pear. The cactus plants grow to be quite large and formidable and are used for fencing to this day. The tunas are also called prickly pears, as the skin is covered with two kinds of spines: small clusters of hard, whitish spines grow all over the small fruits and are visible to the eye, but there are also soft, hairy filaments on the fruits. Prickly pears are commonly eaten today following a variety of cooking menus. Beware the occasional spine!!

Sunday 10/10/2021: As we have been prevented from making progress on the bike and with little to do except listen to gunfire and watch the wildlife, tarantulas, Cathy has been looking for new outlets to scale the heights of challenges so has taken to aerial pursuits as in the picture.

Next log one further episode on Franco and by then hopefully we may be back on the bike. So Prickly Pears to you with mashed avocado. Check the Photo Archive for recent pics. Cathy and Spencer

The TenereWOULD YOU ADAM AND EVE IT!

Monday 27/09/2021: For those of you who are not familiar with Cockney Rhyming Slang - probably not many I expect as my readers are an erudite, educated, up-market, experienced and well-travelled coterie - rhyming slang emanates from the East End of London, UK and is a form of word construction in the English language especially prevalent in England, Ireland and Australia. It was first used in the early 19th century by Cockneys in the London suburb so that the managers and bosses could not comprehend what the workers were discussing! Thus "Adam and Eve It" = Believe It. Google the link for an excellent and informative guide... https://www.cockneyrhymingslang.co.uk/

Anyway stymied once again as we were about to escape from Escondido as the radiator cap on my Tenere disintegrated. No pressure so spluttered to a halt. Will we ever get back on the road?

Wednesday 29/09/2021: Last week I introduced you to the Peruvian Gigolo so herewith a continuation highlighting a meal to be remembered.

The next day, with a sore head and a sore knee, Franco was true to his word. He turned up with his petite and pretty wife, Susan, a softly spoken, elegant woman, and with a Guinea Pig. A big one. A bodybuilding steroid Guinea Pig. As big as his wife.

At this point I will interject with a few facts for the vegetarians, vegans and general Guinea Pig lovers out there. It will probably make no difference to your opinion, but it will make me feel better. The Guinea Pig, Cavia Porcellus is a species of rodent belonging to the family Cavidae and the genus Cavia. Despite their name, Guinea Pigs are not native to Guinea, have not even been on holiday to Guinea and are not even remotely related to pigs.

Guinea Pig MealThey actually originated in the Andes and studies based on biochemistry and hybridisation suggest that they were originally domesticated as livestock, as a source of protein and yumminess. They have kiddies every three months, between three and eight, so are totally sustainable, nifty breeders. For 5000 years Guinea Pigs have fed rural communities in Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile, countries deeply and frequently affected by malnutrition and unemployment. The Cuy features prominently in traditional festivals- famously, a cooked Guinea pig lies paws up in the celebrated 1753 painting of the Last Supper by Marcos Zapata in the Cathedral Basilica in Cusco. Guinea Pigs were munchies for the Andean people long before they became pets in the west. So who were we to argue? If it was good enough for Jesus and his disciples, it's good enough for us.

The meal was superb and was cut up into a tasty stew. We would not have known it was a Guinea pig if we hadn't seen the dismembering beforehand. In fact, Cuy is growing in popularity in high end restaurants and is helping to usher a boost in the return of a traditional and environmentally friendly industry, led by women. Top Chefs in Peru and Colombia have brought the meat back into popularity with roasted, curried and even sweetened versions appearing on menus. The squeamishness of foreign visitors facing a deep fried dish of Cuy chactado, has also been reflected in sectors of Peruvian society where the aesthetics of eating a rodent were problematic. No such thing in Ecuador.


Mexican Army Enters Mexico CityNext time an adventure with Franco that nearly sent us to the other side!!ths.. The Mixtec were organized in kingdoms or city-states ruled by kings who collected tributes and services from the inhabitants of the area.

Thursday 30/09/2021: Recently Mexico celebrated the 200th anniversary of independence so the Bank of México has released a new 20-peso bill (about US $1) recalling the moment exactly two centuries ago when the rebel army entered Mexico City on September 27th 1821, and declared independence on the 29th. The note depicts a painting which hangs in Chapultepec Castle called "The Solemn and peaceful entry of the Army of the Three Guarantees into Mexico City on September 27 from the memorable year of 1821" It glorifies the moment the army took Mexico city. A series of events is planned for 2021 to recall two centuries since independence, 500 years since the fall of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlán, and - rather more dubiously - 700 years since the ancient city's foundation.

Mexican Bank NoteFriday 01/10/2021: Another month and attempting to get the bike back on the road. These setbacks are driving me batty. An idiom meaning 'to annoy or frustrate one to the point of exasperation'. As if you didn't know! But battiness comes from bats! So some aside on these lovely creatures, friends of Dracula, a refined gentle man who enjoyed sucking blood from beautiful female victims. Grim. But not the Vampire bats but the Lesser Long Nosed Mexican variety. Although it weighs less than an ounce, this bat has a big impact in Mexico. It pollinates the agave plant that humans use to make tequila, earning it the nickname of the "tequila bat". For decades an ecologist, Rodrigo Medellín, has been working to preserve this tiny but vital species. Rodrigo is known as "The Bat Man of Mexico" and is celebrated by the British natural historian Sir David Attenborough in a documentary produced by the British Broadcasting Corporation. It follows Medellín's determined campaign to save the lesser long-nosed bat, in part by raising awareness of its importance to the tequila industry.

Lesser Long Nosed Bat As he explains, an agave plant reproduces just once in its life, via a flower created by sugar that has accumulated in the plant. Bats feed on nectar from the flower. In doing so, they help agave plants exchange genes with each other. "If I were to make an organization chart of the most important mammals in the world," naturalist Rodrigo Orozco states, "I would put bats at the very top of the chart. Every night nectar-eating bats do the same kind of pollination work that bees do by day. At the same time, fruit-eating bats spread seeds far and wide, creating biodiversity, while insect-eating bats prevent bugs from multiplying out of control. Believe it or not, I would rate the bat as the most important mammal in the world. Without it, the human race wouldn't stand a chance."

If In Need So try to love these little creatures. They are a vital part of our life cycle. When you sip your tequila spare a thought for Rodrigo striving to save the little bats for the future.

Saturday 02/10/2021: Whilst kicking heels in Escondido and also trying to find a reasonable resting place that we can afford I have been steadily writing my next book which is to be called 'The Zimbabwean Psychiatrist's Hat'. At least when we are unable to ride I have the opportunity to type up the text. Cathy tried typing on the tablet on the back of the bike as I dictated the copy but lasted for about two minutes!! Also been looking for alternative transport just to get around the town to seek out supplies. Actually found something that looked suitable but decided against it after lengthy thoughts. About one minute! Take a look at the picture 'If in Need'.

That's all for this Log. So fried Guinea Pig and tomato sauce from Cathy and Spencer.

Spencer Conway Kitted Up Beast STILL IN MEXICO

Tuesday 14/09/2021: We are heading into the jungle again in the next few days to carry out research for articles for Overland, ABR and National Geographic Traveller magazines that we were trying to do when I went down with Covid. Have to go over 2000 metres in the mountains so we will see how lungs cope. We intend to travel for five weeks ending up at the Day of the Dead celebrations in Oaxaca City. Hope we make it this time.

Thursday 16/09/2021: The last log introduced you to the Peruvian Gigolo so here is a continuation of the part he played in our lives. Having been met by Franco and welcomed to our lodgings he decided to celebrate our arrival in a 'friendly' manner.

On the road we saw several signs to beware of wild life on the lower slopes of the road to our resting place. (one such as in the pic below) Down in the valley, was the tiny figure of a woman, leading a happily braying donkey, a goat and a dog into the distance. Ant like agricultural figures hard at work were sprinkled across the valley floor. The odd battered pick up rolled through, leaving a cloud of dust, and coughing people in its wake. It was a beautiful view and a beautiful house. Franco showed us around more formally and then we headed to the balcony for a celebratory drink. Neither of us was surprised when within an hour Franco was on the wooden table, singing and cavorting around in a ludicrously oversized, fraying straw hat and yellow sunglasses, the frames the shape of two stars.

Suicidal DeerDowning a lager Franco announced, "Tomorrow we eat Cuy, Guinea pig, you know it?" he asked enthusiastically. "For sure, we know them as pets but not to eat," I answered. Franco raised his eyes and whistled. "Tomorrow my wife prepare Cuy and the next day she open Chinese restaurant in town. We go to eat. Yes?" "That sounds fantastic Franco, thanks so much and great to finally meet up," I said. "Watch that step Franco." Oh dear!

Next time we eat Guinea Pig!

Saturday18/09/2021: Like elsewhere in the world statues and references to colonialism are being removed or changed to reflect current attitudes to past events. Mexico is following the trend but not without controversy. A statue of an indigenous Olmec woman will be installed on a Mexico City avenue at a location where a statue of Christopher Columbus stands. The Columbus statue will be moved, with the authorization of the National Institute of Anthropology and History, and in its place there will be recognition of women. The Olmec civilization is known as the "mother culture" of Mesoamerica because most scholars believe it was the first in the region and influenced those that emerged in later years. Thus, a new statue will be erected on Paseo de la Reforma – which is home to numerous monuments and "anti-monuments."

Columbus StatueThe removal of the Columbus statue is not an attempt to erase the history of the Europeans' arrival in Mexico according to the authorities. It has been stated that the relocation of the statue is not about hiding it. Columbus is a "great" and "universal " personage." Some people think that the Spanish brought civilization to Mexico [but] that's not true," Mayor Sheinbaum stated "We have centuries of history and that which comes from outside isn't better." Actually the move has been opposed by thousands who believe that it is wrong to re-write history.

Love Eternal Sunday 19/09/2021: Came across some news which has nothing to do with political correctness. Something more heartening. Raúl and Imelda inspired the artist Sr. Mickrone to create a mural near their home in Iztapalapa. The 83-year-old lady and her husband are now well known in the neighbourhood The artist was looking for inspiration and found it in the most humble of circumstances when he saw an older couple in a working class neighbourhood of Mexico City showing affection and taking some sun. Raúl and his wife Imelda, who uses a wheelchair, caught his attention. "I was painting ... when I saw a couple from the neighbourhood walking with a wheelchair. They sat down and I noticed that he was being affectionate and took her head onto his chest. "I talked to them and mentioned that I would like to create a mural where they could see it." .Once it was finished, the artist uploaded some photos to Facebook, where they went viral. "I think it touched some very important feelings to do with the pandemic. You can see that the people are adults, and they still love each other." The couple go out every day and sit in the same spot to enjoy the sun, and others have taken photos of them as well.

Mexican Traffic Monday 20/09/2021: It doesn't come as a surprise to me that Mexico is by far the easiest country in the world to get a driver's license Citizens can legally drive a vehicle according to an international survey without a check on ability or experience.. Aspiring drivers are helped by incredibly loose regulations, as in a large portion of the country you do not have to take a practical test to get a license, just a theory test and moreover, prior to 2018 there was no test at all. Another reason is that you can legally drive at 15 in Mexico which is younger than most countries in the world where the age is 18. .The granting of licenses is regulated at the state level, and so requirements can vary widely. Nonetheless, it is generally a simple procedure, the general process to gain a license requires an official identification, proof of address, the payment of fees, and in some cases a theoretical exam. Some states go as far as to demand proof of a driver's competence in a practical exam. However, in Mexico City, one of the cities with the highest density of traffic in the world, there is no examination process.

Dinosaure Bone and Hog Louse Claw Tuesday 21/09/2021: Just a couple of photos from a recent photographic competition. One picks up on the Metal Talons theme of a previous log where even minute creatures have created metal reinforced claws to inflict wounds by slicing and cutting recipients. This menacing, microscopic snapshot shows a side view of the rear leg and claw of a hog louse (Haematopinus suis). The hog louse lives primarily on swine, where the insect feeds on blood, and is one of the largest sucking lice. As we are in dinosaur territory thought the other photo relevant as it depicts a close up view of a thin slice of mineralized dinosaur bone, shown at five times magnification. This showcases a dizzying display of colour, thanks to how polarized light interacts with the mineral. I think I need to upgrade my camera!!!

Friday 24/09/2021: About to set off so some final words which some of you may have read on my social media posts. Thanks everyone for comments. The road to success is always under construction. Lead me not into temptation, I can find the way myself. I always wanted to be someone, now I realise I should have been more specific. I am a strong man and live by my own rules (reviewed, revised and approved by knife wielding Cathy Nel)... but still my own. Travelling has always been in my genes. When I was a child, my parents moved a lot, but I always found them. Stay well everyone, and remember, the worst time to have a heart attack, is during a game of charades. I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

Peace, love, respect from me and Cathy Nel and an ice cold Stella Artois and a cheers for all.

Estamos Hartas REMAIN CALM AND CARRY ON

Wednesday 01/09/2021: Another month has whizzed by, not without mishaps as previously recorded. As you know I have suffered from coronavirus and Mexico continues to have a high number of cases. On Tuesday more than 15,000 new cases were announced as the third wave of the pandemic continues to afflict much of the country. The official death toll is now 265,541. The accumulated case tally is just under 3.45 million. Oaxaca, where we are, is one of many states currently recording high case numbers amid the delta variant. A poor supply of vaccines has meant that millions of Mexicans remain vulnerable to infection and illness as the highly contagious delta strain circulates widely. Many of the new cases have been detected in young people, who are far less likely to be fully vaccinated, and children, who have been shown to be more susceptible to infection with delta than previous variants. Cathy and I are now more than ever careful to avoid crowded places.

Friday 03/09/2021:
Some readers (two) have asked me to continue including extracts from my book, perhaps to avoid the cost of purchase, so not wanting to refuse requests herewith an extract that will be continued in the next couple of logs.

The Peruvian Gigolo

We were, on top of the world, well on top of a mountain in Peru, waiting at a petrol station for Franco to come and meet us introduced by a friend, Dave, of ours from Charing, UK, who had said we could have his house, not permanently obviously, whilst he was elsewhere. We heard Franco from five kilometres away, on what would turn out to be a well-used XT500 with no exhaust. It was quite an entrance and appropriate for a man whose reputation preceded him. He sped up the opposite side of the road, waving to us wildly as he swung round the roundabout, into the station. He stopped the bike and jumped off in front of us, hand outstretched in one smooth Peruvian version, Jason Statham type move. Etni Franco Guevara was a shorter version of all the following people, mixed into one ball of energy – Antonio Banderas, George Lopez, Andy Garcia, Benjamin Bratt and his namesake Che Guevara.

The Adventure Of FrancoI think he lightly modelled himself on Che, as he had the full mane of hair, the scraggly uneven beard and even the revolutionary beret. We both warmed to Franco immediately with his pearly white teeth and genuine grin. He was about thirty five and had a hint of lines around his eyes, a sign of a great deal of smiling, sun and wind. He was wearing pair of blue, 'definitely mechanic's' jeans, a grey O Neill T-shirt with holes in it, (from clothes munching insects) and black, scuffed to hell army boots. Franco sported a dark blue bandana, which was failing desperately to keep his hair under control. He had a scarf tied round his right wrist and a chunky silver chain. He had three or four days stubble sprouting on his sun bronzed face, but not covering the sparkle in his eye. We received big hugs and rode together to David's house along the most stunning mountain route. A massive fertile, green valley stretched ahead of us as far as the eye could see. On the horizon, the Andes mountains loomed up 3000 metres, imposing, beautiful, roughly hewn and snow-capped.


Next time 'Adventures with Franco',

Earthquake PictogramSunday 05/09/2021: As mentioned before art is a central part of the culture of Mexico and for centuries the inhabitants of Mexico used pictograms to record events in their life. Pictograms are another example of Mexican interest and skill in an art forms. One example, as in the image, depicts an earthquake that took place in the year 1507. The quake is represented by the symbol composed of four dotted yellow rectangles overlain by four helices in blue and white with a red eye at the centre. The pictogram also shows one impact of the quake: the drowning of 1,800 warriors in a river. Amazingly there exists a 50-page codex of colourful, complex pictograms that dates to the early 16th century that includes the most complete chronologies of early earthquakes in the Americas. The Telleriano-Remensis, which was created by an unknown pre-Hispanic civilization, depicts 12 separate earthquakes that rocked Mexico and Central America from 1460 to 1542. The famous codex was written by specialists called tlacuilos, meaning "those who write painting" in the Nahuatl language spoken by Aztecs and other pre-Hispanic civilizations in the area Yet another aspect of Mexican culture to be admired!

Leaf Cutting Ant Wednesday 08/09/2021: Now to something more biting and closer to home. As you know I was recently zapped by a vicious hornet that created puncture marks to my skin and caused a severe and highly painful reaction, swelling of both arms and a dangerous shock. It may seem incredible that small insects can so easily slice or puncture human skin, even through clothing, but these 'pesky varmints' have metal teeth!! Scientists already knew that some small 'animals' piercing and slashing body parts are infused with metals such as zinc and manganese, making the parts tough and durable. Recently, however, physicist at the University of Oregon used a special microscope to examine the sharp "teeth" that line the jaws of leaf-cutting ants called Atta cephalotes, revealing the teeth's atomic structure. The team found that zinc atoms were dispersed homogeneously, rather than in chunks, throughout a single tooth. This uniformity allows the ants to grow thin, sharp blades. This is also the case for spider fangs, scorpion stingers and marine worm jaws and a variety of other species. The metal-fortified body parts have the kinds of properties that you want in a knife or needle and the zinc-infused teeth provide 'insects' with the power to puncture and cut using only about 60 percent of the energy and muscle mass they would otherwise need. By making these sharp, precisely sculpted tools, ants and other small creatures can compensate for their tiny muscles, allowing them to acquire and process foods that would normally be beyond their capabilities. Dracula had similar teeth for his blood sucking escapades!!

Saturday 11/09/2021: To continue, an item of Mexican interest, particularly for those into beverages. Most of you know of tequila, the strong alcoholic drink popular in the country but do you know of Mezcal? Well, tequila is actually a type of mezcal it has its own unique distillation process and a very specific way that it should be tasted. It was being produced in Mexico long before the arrival of the Spanish — at that time in clay pots, a process that some mezcal masters still use today. With the arrival of the Spanish came the introduction of the alcohol still, particularly the "Filipino" still, which continues to be used today.

Agave HeartsThe most common type of mescal is produced from the espadín agave which needs at least eight years to mature. Its hearts weigh up to 300 kilograms. The level of alcohol is a factor in mezcal's quality — a good mezcal is 43% or higher. You can test a bottle by shaking it or pouring it and seeing how many "pearls," or bubbles, are formed. The longer the bubbles last before popping and the more medium-sized bubbles there are, the more likely that you have a good bottle.

GazeIt is not advisable to take more than a couple of glassfuls!! Decided chances of hallucinations!!

Sunday 12/09/2021: Reflections

Psychologists who study well-being have long suggested that to live a satisfying life it is achieved via two paths: 'happiness'' and 'meaningfulness'. A happy life is one of joy, comfort and security, and the meaningful life is one of significance, purpose and coherence, or order. Happiness and meaning can run parallel or intersect. One has to attempt to pursue both to achieve a satisfying life but the problem is that these concepts are largely rooted in personal and societal stability which, for most, is an impossibility as we have seen on out travels around the world.



Shack Accommodation RECOVERING IN MEXICO

Saturday 21/08/2021: The hornet attack as reported in the previous log has taken several days for the pain and swelling to subside. Don't wrangle with a hornet, the sting is not recommended!! In fact avoid these beasts unless you want to experience an extended period of pain, not enjoyable. The result of Covid-19 has forced isolation for 14 days so not yet released from our five star hotel accommodation.

Sunday 22/08/2021: As promised in this log I include the next part of the account of my Dakar saga...

Cathy not being able to act as camera person for the Dakar a Polish biker agreed to film in her stead. It soon became clear that on the way to the observation point that Slavic was rather an erratic individual in his riding and general behaviour. We managed to get to the filming point after several hours of riding to find an amazing spectacle of Rally tents, support crews, media etc. and hundreds of wildly enthusiastic locals. After one or two minor mad-cap incidents this is what happened.

NAKED DESERT RUNNER FROM POLAND CAUSES DAKAR CRASH

OK. Those were not the headlines in La Nacion newspaper the next day, but they could have been. Guess what Slavic did next. After following me a few steps up the hill, he turned and bolted back down the dune, removing his boots as he ran. He then sat/fell and simultaneously removed his motorcycle trousers and underwear, quickly and impressively, I must admit. He stood up in his white T shirt and stained white socks, his proud belly sticking out from underneath his BMW shirt. He then gyrated his hips in a circular motion, displaying his Polish jewels to huge applause. Did I mention 5000 people, now it was 8000. By this stage, the organisers were livid, and Slavic had, unsurprisingly caught the attention of security and the Police who were armed to the hilt, and rapidly approaching. Surrender was not an option in Slavic's head. Now he was William Wallace. Off he ran, at Dakar speed across the dunes, not before taking a quick detour across the road, crossing the route of the soon to arrive competitors. He ran down the line of spectators, arms in the air, like a World Cup winning striker, before peeling off across the desert with many uniforms after him. Success and fame would be short lived, and he was rugby tackled by five men, much like a streaker at an English football match. Except, in a desert and no football to be seen. The crowd were cheering on hysterically and when he was tackled, undoubtedly causing friction to his tackle, there was a collective 'Ahh' of disappointment that he had been caught. He escaped for a final time from the clutches of the law, then it was a Champions League goal reaction from the crowd, followed by a red card. Pavel was finally taken down.


Dakar Checkpoint POST SCRIPT: Pavel was put in a lock up overnight and was due to be in court but we managed to persuade the Police to release him into our custody with strict instructions to make sure he left the area pronto. We celebrated with music and a meal.

The full account of what transpired later can be read in 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker.' It is surprising.
The turkey bones and other elements are part of a probable tattoo kit found in a burial pit in Tennessee. Damage on the tips of the two turkey leg bones resembles distinctive wear previously observed on experimental tattooing tools made from deer bones. Pigment-stained seashells in the grave may have held solutions into which tattooists dipped those tools. Here in Mexico tattooists make their craft an art.

Cornish MinersTuesday 24/08/2021: Central and South America are full of surprises also. Apart from the Spanish other nationalities have added to the culture of the country. We have been through German, French, Dutch and Italian enclaves and towns where Welsh is spoken. Now have just learnt that Cornish miners have also had an influence who were invited to the state of Hildago to mine silver in the mountainous region. The first ships carrying steam-powered machinery and 15 Cornish miners arrived at the port of Veracruz in 1824, but the machinery was so heavy and roads so bad that it took almost two years to get to the high mountains of Hidalgo. The miners felt at home in the area's cold and damp climate, and by 1827, there were 3,500 Cornish miners and family members situated there. The area became extremely important as a mining centre for the rest of the century, and a target during the Mexican Revolution. The Mexicans sold the mines to an American company and mining continued till 1965, when the mines became non- viable.

Clock Of Pachuca So why mention Cornish miners? For two reasons. The most important cultural contribution of Cornish miners to Mexico is the introduction of football. They began playing it soon after their arrival in Pachuca, with formal teams established by the end of the 1830s and the city's first professional club in 1901. Today, Mexico is one of the most soccer-addicted countries in the world. Lesser-known is a culinary contribution: the 'pasta' It is the Mexican take on the Cornish pasty, the food miners consumed deep underground for their midday meal. The crust of these hand pies has not changed much, but the cooks in Pachuca and Real del Monte have taken quite a few liberties with the fillings. Savoury ones vary, almost always with chilli pepper of some kind, and there are even sweet fillings. Their popularity has grown regionally outside of Hidalgo, especially in intercity bus stations in central Mexico because they are cheap and easy to take along for the ride.

Thursday 25/08/2021: BIRD ATTACK!

Bird AttackMy father has just sent me an email to say he was attacked by a sea gull whilst running along the coast in Kent, near Dover, UK. The bird swooped down and tried to snatch a lock of hair. These birds are big and so rather scary. Hitchcock's 'The Birds'. I have learnt that some tiny birds take bold risks to gather hair for their nests. Titmice have been spotted dive-bombing cats, alighting on dozing predators' backs and plucking strands of hair from people's heads. Now, there's a term for the unusual behaviour: kleptotrichy. This term is derived from the Greek words for "to steal" and "hair," Kleptotrichy has rarely been described by scientists, but dozens of YouTube videos capture the behaviour, and one chickadee has been caught on video tugging hair from dogs, cats, humans, raccoons and even a porcupine.

Dressed To ImpressIn South and Central America, palm swifts snatch feathers from flying pigeons and parrots If it's not covid or hornets next it's a marauding attack from above !! Large birds can kill!! Watch the video by clicking th elink below, rather long and gets boring, but shows the persistence of the attackers. Don't bother to watch all but search-out other you tube videos...

Vegetable Seller Birds Attack People and Funny Reaction! >

Saturday 28/08/2021: Have not been attacked by birds but have made a new friend. He looks rather bedraggled as he has just had a bath after wandering through muddy water in search of sustenance. He has put on his best suit and has posed for a photo. He likes selfies. Sometimes gets very moody but generally a happy and welcoming fellow. Likes to stand and stare at you much as to say, "I was born like this. My mother loves me so no comment, please."

Monday 30/08/2021: Last day of isolation has past so ventured out for first time in 14 days. Needed to get supplies and purchased vegies and fruit from a street vendor, slightly more exotic than in Ashford, UK. Also fresher and more varied. Hope all well where ever you are so fried snails and geraniums from Cathy and Spencer.


Spencer In Hospitalr COVID SETBACK SENDS US BACK

Sunday 15/08/2021: As I have reported on social media sites once more another disaster. We were on our way to Monte Alban and steadily gaining altitude when I had difficulty breathing. Having suffered from similar problems in the Andes did not consider it a major problem but became increasingly difficult to breathe so decided to trace our ride back to lower levels. This did not alleviate the problem and in fact I felt decidedly unwell. Fortunately found a hospital and was diagnosed with Covid-19!!! This necessitated treatment and terminated our intended journey to the Tarahumara barefoot runners and further into the mountains.

As promised I now include a further episode on the manic actions of my stand in camera man at the Dakar Rally from my book 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker.' We had made it to the check point of a stage of the rally and the Argentinians had pulled out all the stops. If you have ever been to an English country Fair, multiply the stalls by one thousand, add five thousand screaming Argentinians and Bolivians, a sprinkling of Germans, Dutch and the unhinged. Add smoke billowing asados; an Argentinian barbecue of ludicrous proportions - picture three cows upside down. Next to each other, cooking. Not for Vegetarian Dakar fans this one. Add thousands of litres of Quilmes beer, zillions of litres of Mendoza Red wine from the nearby hills, international flags fluttering in the breeze and the smell of fuel in the air and there you have it... not an English Country Fair at all.

Dakar Spectators The whole scene was divided in two by the river and road crossing it. On one side of the river were the 5000 fans partying like there was a pandemic coming soon, as well as some high-powered vehicles, and on the other side was a cordoned off section with Winnebago's and four by four trucks with tents and tarpaulins and barbecues. Important people were running around with radio mikes and high-speed important walks. I was so excited. We found or spot with a view of a sweeping bend on the approach to the bridge and water crossing. I had the stills camera and I showed Slavic how to use the handheld Panasonic HD camera and taught him the basics of how to do a piece to camera and how to film the riders, preferably not pointing the camera into the sun and never zoom etc. It was Neanderthal-basic instructions, but it was better than having no camera man at all. Slavic seemed to concentrate and take it all in. But that was before he turned from hippie Robert de Niro into Captain Barbarosa.'

The next log will recount how we both fell foul of the Army, the Police and 5000 spectators and concludes these extracts.

Mixteca SkullTuesday 17/08/2021: As stated we were on our way to Monte Alban when the cursed Covid struck so did not get to our intended destination to visit sites attributed to the Mixtec people so just a little on the early inhabitants of the region where we have been for the last 15 months.. The Mixtec were organized in kingdoms or city-states ruled by kings who collected tributes and services from the inhabitants of the area. They were aided by their administrators, who were part of the nobility, during the period (AD 800-1200). Two of the most powerful kingdoms of this period were Tututepec on the coast and Tilantongo in the northern region of Oaxaca. The most famous Mixtec king was Lord Eight Deer "Jaguar Claw," ruler of Tilantongo, whose heroic actions are part fact, part legend. According to Mixtec history, in the 11th century, he brought together the kingdoms of Tilantongo and Tututepec creating a large, unified state. The Mixtec are well known in the anthropological world for their codices, or phonetic pictures in which they wrote their history and genealogies. The Mixtec possessed a high degree of civilization in Aztec and pre-Aztec times. Hopefully we might be able to investigate this area and the archaeological sites in the future.

Thursday 19/08/2021: Just when you thought it safe to venture into the big world, within the limits of self-isolation, an attack on my Covid-ridden body occurred. But more about that after the next entry on 'talking' insects.

It appears that insects are versatile wing conversationalists. Crickets can scrape a leg against a wing or rub two wings together. Some grasshoppers beat their wings like castanets; others crackle and snap the thin membranes. Many butterfly wings play with light, manipulating it to hide in plain sight or reflecting it in flashes along iridescent or multifaceted surfaces Now, the discovery of the fossilized wing of a grasshopper-like insect suggests this 'conversation' skill got started as far back as 310 million years ago. The wing structures resemble those of living insects that use light or sound to communicate A fossil from the ancient insect Theiatitan azari suggests it used its wings to communicate, much like many modern insects. By comparing the arrangement of the structures with modern insect wings, researchers suggest T. azari may have made crackling noises by swiftly snapping together the thin membranes of the wing. It may also have reflected flashes of light along different surfaces in the wing.

DragonflyThe Titanoptera, get the name, a group of giant predatory, large-winged insects that thrived 359 million to 299 million years ago grew to astounding sizes in the oxygen-rich atmosphere. A dragonfly, Meganeura, was roughly the size of a small dog!! Help!!. These huge insects may have had a range of communication tools at their wing tips. Scientists don't yet know whether the ancient insects used those abilities to call to potential mates or warn off predators. But this discovery suggests there's plenty more these ancient wings can tell them.

Dragonflies can hover in one place, fly extremely fast, and even fly backwards. They are some of the fastest flying insects in the world reaching speeds of over 30 miles per hour. Dragonflies come in a variety of colours including blue, green, yellow, and red. They are some of the most colourful insects on the planet.

Hornet My cheery grandfather said 'Remember, Spencer, things can always get worse.' Well, they have, thank you. I am getting a bit sick of this insect vendetta. A man, or woman, can only take so much. Three days after getting Covid-19, I had to break quarantine. I am in Hospital. I got nailed by a steroid monster-killer-biting-stinging-head-butting-murder hornet. (Don't quote me on that name) Step aside Fire Ants and Bullet Ants, this was another scale. My arms swelled up just like two balloons. (Anyone recognise the song) Sadly, I suffer from anaphylactic shock, so have been pumped with ephedrine, cortisone, anti-histamine and now on a cocktail drip for three hours from a secret Mexican recipe, handed down through generations. (Not). Doctor Ronnie Corbett, who comes up to my waist, when he is standing on a box, has been great.

Wendy - 30 - Please Drive SafelyJust on another note I have learnt that my mother had a village in Cambridgeshire named after her so Mum your name lives on. If anyone would like to read her short stories Google 'Mind the Raven', or contact You BY You Books. . Peace, love and Omega 3 fish drips for all, from me and the incredibly hardy, annoyingly healthy, Cathy Nel. Until the next disaster, which I won't post because, quite frankly, all the stories are becoming a bit far-fetched.

P.S. Please look at the Photo Archive to see the most beautiful, exotic, colourful Brazilian tarantula. Where else could it come from?


ON THE ROAD

Dead Jaguar Wednesday 04/08/2021: We have made it to the mountains north west of Escondido to get away from the coast. We passed through San Jose del Pacifico in LA Pluma area and in thick forest with a myriad of birds and insects .outside our room. About two kilometres from here a week ago a jaguar was shot that was attacking goats. Shame. Actually Oaxaca is home to five of Mexico's six wild cat species: jaguars, cougars, ocelots, lynxes and jaguarundi that inhabit the mountainous state. A local tracker took a rather poor photo of the dead animal.

Cubensis XalapaThursday 05/08/2021: The town nearby, San Jose Del Pacifico, as mentioned is where magic mushrooms can be consumed 'legally'. There are no police so the locals make the laws and rules, the village is located in the mountains surrounded by lush forests. It attracts backpackers to take magic mushrooms or 'hongos' in Spanish and experience a 'trip' in the vibrant surroundings! Magic mushrooms are also known as shrooms, mushies, blue meanies, golden tops, liberty caps, philosopher's stones, liberties, amani, and agaric. They can cause nausea, yawning, feeling relaxed or drowsy, introspection, nervousness, paranoia, panic, hallucinations, and psychosis. Beware falling into the 'drug' trap and also fake potions. You will be ill. The photo is by Alan Rockefeller.

Snake Eating SpiderFriday 06/08/2021: Continued on the bike heading to Yagul, an archaeological site and former city-state associated with the Zapotec civilization of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica. Caught a glimpse of a tarantula, Oh No! tarantulas again. This one was devouring a snake but tarantulaed away before I could film it. Later discovered that at least eleven different families of spiders feed on snakes from seven species, including coral snakes, rattlers, palm-pit vipers and lanceheads. Not all snake-eating spiders trap snakes with webs. Tarantulas actively hunt their prey, then use powerful jaws to deliver a potent venom The spider catches the snake by the head and will hold on in spite of all efforts of the snake to escape. Once the venom takes effect, the snake calms down and then either dies quickly or over a lengthy period. Enzymes then decompose the snake into soft tissue and the tarantula sucks the fluid for a mushy meal. Some South American tarantulas eat snakes and frogs almost exclusively. The Goliath bird eater tarantula, the world's largest spider, that inhabits South America, feeds on a highly venomous common lancehead snake. Don't want one of those in my shorts.

God Of Death Sunday 08/08/2021: Made it to Yagul on our way north. The site is also known locally as Pueblo Viejo, Old Village, and was occupied at the time of the Spanish Conquest. It was first occupied around 500-100 BC but most of the visible remains date from 1250-1521 AD, when the site functioned as the capital of a city-state. Yagul is an offshoot of Monte Alban which was abandoned in about 800 AD. Signs of human habitation in the area can be seen on cliff paintings at Caballito Blanco, which date to at least 3000 BC. The people in the region are Mixtecs a modern indigenous group with a rich ancient history. In pre-Hispanic times, they lived in the western region of the state of Oaxaca and part of the states of Puebla and Guerrero and they were one of the most important groups of Mesoamerica. During the Postclassic period (AD 800-1521), they were famous for their mastery of artworks such as metalworking, as in the picture, jewellery, and decorated vessels. I hope to be able to provide more information on Monte Alban in the next log.

Armed And Readyr Tuesday 10/08/2021: On our recent journey into the mountains of Oaxaca we had to traverse some rocky and fairly dangerous tracks. There was the threat of being attacked by animals known to inhabit the area so we prepared ourselves with protective weapons. Cathy was ready with deadly gladiatorial fighting armoury and suitable battle cry. I kept the bike running!

Hunting Cougar Wednesday 11/08/2021: Actually the reality of being attacked by wild animals whilst camping in the area hit home today as a cougar attacked and killed 12-year-old boy in the area two days ago. The community organized a hunt for the animal. The boy from Chapulapa, Gabriel Trovamala, went out into the fields to check crops and was attacked. Trovamala, a member of the Mazateca indigenous community, died of internal bleeding. Local residents said there have been attacks against livestock and one adult, who was unharmed. They attribute all the attacks to the same animal but they have been asked not to demonize the large cats The Mazateca community has organized the placement of traps and plans to hunt the animal down, hoping to prevent another attack. Oaxaca is home to five of Mexico's six wild cat species as previously stated in this log. They are now protected by law but were hunted and killed in previous years as in the picture from 1910 We will be vigilant!

By Hook Or By Crook Friday 13/08/2021: Continuing on our quest after some pretty torrential rain and had to negotiate some flooded roads. Believe it or not came across a large lollipop sign and had to stop to learn more. In the midst of dense vegetation and miles from human habitation discovered that it was a 'wi-fi' 'outpost!! Not to be missed.

MotelAnyway, onwards and upwards, literally as climbing altitude in mountains 2500 mtrs into the beyond heading to Monte Alban. Beginning to feel the altitude as breathing more difficult. Not so good at altitude as previously experienced in the Andes.

Saturday 14/08/2021: Plans to continue to the archaeological sites may have to be put on hold as I am not feeling too good. Also want to meet up with the Tarahumara barefoot runners who I mentioned in a previous log. They can run for hours without rest running over rocky trails at high altitude. Amazing endurance athletes. If you want to learn more about the Tarahumara follow this link >

Have found a 'Motel' for the night so until the next log jelly beans in tomato soup, Cathy and Spencer.

Tenochtitian Dancer WHAT NEXT?

Friday 23/07/2021: We are hoping to move on asap but the U.S. government has extended the closure of land borders with Mexico to nonessential travel such as tourism through to the end of August. Apparently the US officials are in constant contact with Mexican counterparts to identify the conditions under which restrictions may be eased safely and sustainably. There is increasing concern among U.S. officials about the Delta variant as there is reported to be a sizeable increases in Covid-19 cases and deaths, with outbreaks occurring in parts of the country with low vaccination rates. This does not bode well for us. We need to be on the road!!

Sunday 25/07/2021:
Mexico City has recently commemorated the 696th anniversary of the founding of the capital with music and joyous parades. Around 2,000 dancers, musicians, singers and artists converged on Mexico City's zócalo for the annual celebration of the foundation of Tenochtitlán, the forebear to Mexico City and the capital of the Mexica people, also known as the Aztecs. Since 1975, groups have converged on the zócalo each year on July 26 to celebrate the arrival of the first settlers. The event is an opportunity to mark the cultural unification of Mexicans. A tlalmanalli altar is erected to mark the four natural elements and the ancient deities. September 16 is Independence Day but Mexico recognises that 500 years ago the Spanish arrived which led the country to its multicultural mix.

Near Disaster at the Dakar...

In the last log I was preparing to chase the Dakar Rally but my camera guru was not looking, or feeling, too well but I was not going to miss the opportunity of filming it either. Problem. The beautiful camera woman had been floored by San Juan Revenge and I desperately needed a replacement human. Enter, stage right, Slavic, a Polish fellow who made a fruitcake seem like the sanest of cakes. But what a nice cake he turned out to be, in the end: bear with me.

Walter Roelants We had met him briefly outside our room, the previous evening, where he was cleaning the chain and sprockets of his BMW 650 Dakar with a pink toothbrush dipped in petrol. Judging from his stunning white teeth, he evidently had another toothbrush. This morning Slavic was sitting downstairs, in the communal kitchen, examining every single corn in his cornflakes with a grimy spoon. I greeted him, sat opposite and explained my dilemma. Slavic was about sixty-five plus and looked like Robert de Niro, except left in the oven a bit longer and with a more bulbous nose. It must have been his eyes that reminded me of De Niro because you could not really see much of him. He had a huge grey beard, which spread out across his BMW T Shirt, like a sun dial, a similarly massive mop of grey hair, another sun dial, silhouetted against the blue sky. His face was garnished with thick lensed and framed black glasses that seemed to be constantly steamed up and greasy, even when he was riding. Added to this he was bright red so looked like an extra who had just stepped off The Black Pearl and was about to explode. However, Pavel was quick to volunteer as camera man. He had such a great face and beaming smile so I, stupidly agreed. I did not know at that stage that he had more personalities than the village I lived in in Mexico, most of them super nice. Every time he spoke, he squinted for emphasis and his eyes watered and he leant forward to share his words of wisdom and his rather aromatic garlic breath. Still, it was excellent of him to offer help, so I rushed upstairs, mopped the food poisoning victim's brow and whispered suitable kind words and we were off. To be continued next log.

Earliest Shark Attack Monday 26/07/2021: Earliest Shark Attack… Back on the shark theme! Recent research on a partial skeleton has revealed the world's oldest known shark attack. A man encountered the animal 3,000 years ago off the coast of Japan, probably whilst fishing or shellfish diving. The victim's body, minus it's sheared off right leg and left hand must have been retrieved for burial by the local community. New analysis has unveiled the grisly scenario. The individual from Japan's ancient J?mon culture was formerly in a grave in the area. Radiocarbon dating now places his death from 3,391 to 3,031 years ago researchers from Oxford University report. Previously a 1,000-year-old skeleton of a fisherman on Puerto Rico displayed the earliest signs of a shark encounter.

Gruesome remains revealed at least 790 gouges, punctures and other types of bite damage mainly confined to the Jomon man's arms, legs, pelvis and ribs. These injuries indicate that the victim first lost his left hand trying to fend off a shark. After the man's body was recovered, his mutilated left leg was detached and placed on his chest when he was buried. Who knows if skeletons might 'arise' from the depths of the seas around Mexico. I will keep a look out for remains.

Shaman Wednesday 28/07/2021: I have recently been informed that every year rain rituals are conducted in many pueblos located in the Valley of México during the month of May. Many of them are in the Sierra Nevada mountain range near the Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl volcanoes.. Rain rituals keep communities close to their heritage and in tune with nature. The annual event is led by shamans considered the descendants of Aztec priests. The shamans that conduct them are called graniceros and are considered descendants from the line of priests of Tlaloc, the Aztec god of rain and are said to be able to drive away hail [granizo], which can destroy crops. They use prayers and sacred formulas and certain elements that they can use to detour clouds. These ceremonies and rituals have changed very little over many years but some Catholic rituals have also been introduced. Among the beliefs is that Christ is the sun, and the mountain is the Virgin. A large cross is decorated with white flowers which represent the clouds that bring rain. Offerings, such as fruits, vegetables, breads, tequila and beer are then placed around the base of the cross. The people in the area believe that all nature has spirits, including the mountains, the caves, and the volcanoes. Water is thrown into the air, mimicking rainfall. The graniceros and participants firmly believe the ritual brings rain and if it is not performed drought will strike the valleys. Such rituals preserve traditions and keep the community together..

Jungle Retreat Sunday 01/08/2021: Another month and managed to get on the road for the first time in months so hope for the best in the coming weeks. Rode out of Escondido into the interior and found a hut to stay in overnight. Surrounded by thick forest and tropical vegetation. Good to be in such beautiful surroundings in the jungle in the mountains with giant blue butterflies, parrots, loads of snakes, spiders, monkeys, parakeets. Doing a 2000 km round trip to write two articles.. Abundant vibrant and colourful flowers. Super good.

Spider Bite Monday 02/08/2021: Not so good as have been terrorised by spiders and have been zapped by one. Bite not nice and has caused swelling to ankle and leg. Had to use my epipen which helped to keep reaction down but not totally effective as the use by date was passed. Cannot ride at the moment so enforced stay in 'dangerous' habitat. The gods are against us. Need to visit a shaman for 'muti' African Medicine!!

To end this entry and still on 'animal' theme and for those into dinosaurs there were once Pterosaurs, a diverse group of ancient flying reptiles, that lived alongside dinosaurs from the Triassic to the Cretaceous periods, 228 million to 66 million years ago. The group includes Quetzalcoatlus northropi, the largest creature known to take wing, and Kunpengopterus antipollicatus (aka "Monkeydactyl") which had thumbs that enabled it to climb trees.

PterosaursScientists know relatively little about the early life history of pterosaurs, including whether their young could actively flap their wings or only glide - which might mean they stayed under parental care until they were flight-ready. But recent revelations increasingly point toward early independence, or "precociality," for the reptiles, such as finding flight membranes on the wings of an embryonic pterosaur, and the discovery of a tiny Pteranodon juvenile that was capable of long-distance flying before it had grown to adult size. I swear that I saw one yesterday flying above the jungle canopy here. Also noises in the night suggest that TREX is not far away!! Maybe the spider bite is causing hallucinations. Anyway snake stew and bananas is on the menu for tonight. If TREX appears I will emulate Karsten Warholm and break the world record for tree hurdling. Cathy will probably face it with a BBQ fork.

P.S. Check Photo Archive for more pics...


VARIOUS THINGS INTERESTING I HOPE

Monday 12/07/2021: We have been warned about the dangers of swimming or surfing at the moment as the seas are being whipped up by strong winds. Turbulent waves and strong currents on the Pacific coast can be dangerous to swimmers: so far this year at least eight people have died in Oaxaca alone. According to state authorities, the majority of accidents occurred after the victims ignored red flags on the beaches, and makeshift signs which indicate that it is unsafe to swim. Unfortunately one surfer died here in Escondido two days ago after being hurled from his board and drowning in huge waves.

Ride The Dakar Wednesday 10/07/2021: As promised another excerpt from my next book leading to a dramatic episode to be recorded in a further log. This is a continuation from the previous week.

There was also a rat in the room who decided that one corner was his hangout. I thought that rats were supposed to constantly run around- surely the word scurrying was coined especially for rats. So, it was rather disconcerting when he just sat in the corner, staring us down. It rather freaked me out. I solved the problem by imagining him with red, square sunglasses on and I named him Yasser Ara-rat. I did not really mind him after that. This was a psychological technique that Cathy taught me. She told our children that if they were ever scared of an animal, they should give it a cute name. Five five-year-old, Feaya, had a run in (luckily, not a full mugging) with a spider and a pre-existing fear of hairy Arachnids, courtesy of her uncle and grandmother, who both made Bolt look slow if a spider appeared. However, as soon as she named spiders, Charlottes, after that, she was fine. We woke up suitably unrested, sweating like miners and nauseous. We had food poisoning and Cathy had come off worse. I was not remotely surprised as the previous evening we had bought some dodgy street food that was about three hundred years old. The meat was green, but the hue was hidden well in the dark. Luckily for me, Cathy had been hungrier, and my eyesight better. There was no way she was doing anything but horizontal today. The problem was that this was not just any day. The world-famous Dakar Rally was coming through. I had secured a wonderful position with the world's press and camera people, in the Exclusive Press Area, on a towering, rocky outcrop with a flat high plateau above a spectacular river crossing.

Mosquito BitesFriday 16/07/2021: In the twelve years I have been travelling I have been in many inhospitable locations and in some where mosquitos have taken a liking to me. Tablets and ointments have failed to prevent me from getting malaria and suffering debilitating sickness. Recent research and trials of drugs may help to prevent malaria striking in the future.

Currently there is only one malaria vaccine, called RTS,S, in use in Africa that provides partial protection in young children. Rather than live parasites, the shot uses a key malaria protein that helps the parasite infect liver cells to train the body to recognize the pathogen. Another malaria vaccine candidate called R21 was designed to improve protection by helping the body better home in on attacking that same malaria protein.

Still, the world is in desperate need of good malaria vaccines. Taking anti-malaria drugs is a crucial part of the vaccination process. In clinical trials a low-dose vaccine followed up with chloroquine protected four out of five participants when they were exposed to the parasite A high-dose shot protected against another malaria parasite strain from Brazil, protecting people who took chloroquine or pyrimethamine Research indicates that taking a mix of vaccines and standard medicines provides good protection. Hope fully if I am able to get the shots I will not suffer so seriously in future.

Miss Universe Costume Saturday 18/07/2021: To something more attractive than mosquito bites, to most anyway. Beauty pageants are popular spectacles in Mexico. Three Miss Worlds have been from Mexico and the country is home to most recently, Andrea Meza from Chihuahua, who wore a costume based on the artisanal alebrije tradition, which is closely associated with Oaxaca. The southern state has been a focal point for feminist politics in recent years. In the 2018 election the state Congress became majority female for the first time in its history; the following year the state became only the second in the country to decriminalize abortion before 12 weeks' pregnancy for any reason; the first was Mexico City. Some other states allow abortion in cases of rape or to protect the life of the mother. Globally, beauty competitions are experiencing something of a political revolution, according to the newspaper El País. "At the last Miss World, held in 2019, history was made when the first black woman took the crown, a year earlier, Ángela Ponce, a Spanish transsexual. won the contest in Spain. Swe Zin Htet, the representative of Myanmar in the Miss Universe competition, was the first competitor to openly declare herself homosexual." This reflects the change in attitude and criteria for beauty contests. Here in Mexico the use of public funds has been declared illegal for promoting beauty pageants but they are not banned and in fact are very popular. Mexicans of both sexes admire beauty. Opponents point out that beauty contests objectify women as sexual icons and that there should be emphasis on other aspects of the part women play in society. They say that they promote the wrong image and violence against women. Whatever your opinion the beautiful costume that Andrea Meza wore is to be admired.The costume's crown displays the horned head of a dragon-like mythical creature, and bears wings to take one to the upper world of the gods.

Colorado River ToadTuesday 20/07/2021: Now to an 'EVENT!' that recently happened which I report with credit to Mexico News.

Dozens of people from Mexico and abroad travelled to a small coastal town in Sonora earlier this month to celebrate the new year for the indigenous Seri culture and learn about and take a very unique "medicine" – psychoactive toxins emitted by the Colorado River toad. Held in Punta Chueca, a Seri town on the Gulf of California, the event attracted citizens from the United States, Europe and several Mexican states. The key attraction was the opportunity to try 5-MeO-DMT, a psychedelic of the tryptamine class found in the glands of the toad, also known as the Sonoran Desert toad or bufo alvarius.

Fossil ManThe substance is considered an ancestral medicine with the capacity to treat a range of physical, emotional and spiritual ailments. It is commonly dried, mixed with tobacco and smoked to trigger "a powerful religious-like trip that lasts about an hour," according to a shaman known as El Profeta del Sapo (the prophet of the toad) who said that the "venom" is extracted from toads without harming them and is therefore a sustainable substance. for treatment. "It's an anti-hallucinogen that will remove the madness from your mind, everything that removes you from the here and now, everything that is not real," he said. "The bufo alvarius lives buried beneath the ground 10 months a year and in the rainy season it comes to the surface to reproduce, eat and share this ancestral medicine with us," Rettig said. Another proponent of toad-extracted 5-MeO-DMT is former heavyweight boxing champion Mike Tyson, who has travelled to Sonora to smoke the substance and is apparently a regular user. He has said that using the psychoactive drug enabled him to give up alcohol and other drugs and even motivated him to make a boxing comeback. In early July, foreign tourists mingled with Mexican artists and even politicians on Seri, or Com Cáac land, in Punta Chueca. The common denominator was interest in 5-MeO-DMT. I wonder if Fossil Man appeared to them?

God Of The Bulls To end this week was out and about on the bike and felt as if I was being tracked, not for Covid reasons, but something more imposing. Looked back to see in a 5-MeO-DMT haze a strange colourful creature giving me the 'thumbs up', if it had any thumbs. Toad in the Hole with coconut milk seems apt to say 'Adios.' Cathy and Spencer


QUO VADIS

Tuesday 29/06/2021: This week I include some info on research by scientists in different geographical localities the first of which is relevant to the current world situation.

Death In London In these days of Covid-19 we can look back on other pandemics that have caused thousands of deaths. Recently scientists have discovered the oldest known strain of the plague ,Yersinia pestis. It has been found in the bones and teeth of a man buried thousands of years ago in what is now Latvia. Genetic analysis suggests the Y pestis strain that infected the man emerged around 7,100 years ago. Bacterial DNA also reveals that the ancient plague victim didn't develop pustules or infect his family, and the strain lacked the gene for swift flea-to-human transmission, which evolved perhaps 3,800 years ago and caused later bubonic plague epidemics. It's likely this early plague strain passed to humans through isolated encounters, such as from rodent bites. The man was carefully buried, and the team of German scientists didn't find mass graves or Y. pestis infection in other individuals. Although this Y. pestis is the oldest strain ever found, it ultimately went extinct, being replaced by other, more virulent versions which killed thousands across Europe in several outbreaks.

This is common in the evolutionary history of both bacteria and viruses. Later Y. pestis strains may have been more contagious, but isolated encounters like this one may help scientists understand the plague's early history. "Maybe it's really single events in the beginning, then more and more severe, before it became really dramatic in medieval times," the lead scientist Krause-Kyora believes. As we know Covid 19 mutates and new strains appear to threaten life. In the UK the vaccination campaign is combatting the most serious effects and fewer people are dying of the disease. It is estimated that 25 million died in Europe between 1347 and 1351 from The Plague at a time when the population was a fraction that it is today.

Scarlet MacawsThursday 01/07/2021: After the Plague to a problem created by humans, not fleas! Scientists have been investigating the effects of sound on wild life and how it impacts bird and bat foraging. The results suggest that, in addition to human-made noises, natural noises shape ecosystems and how the sounds of nature influence where animals live and how they forage. Research suggests that human noise negatively affects animals from communication to foraging to reproduction, and even survival. For example, the sounds of highway traffic can drive migrating birds away from their regular habitat. This alters our eco-systems and endangers all wildlife species. It is noticeable in Mexico that birds where we live are more numerous when there is less sound, even where there is human habitation but where there is an absence of loud music blaring out. Of course those areas also have more natural vegetation that encourages wild life. During the Covid pandemic where there has been a reduction in traffic and noise created by people birds and other wildlife have commandeered new spaces closer to humans Birdsong can be listened to in peace and quiet.

Tenere Painting Sunday /04/07/2021: Now to things more personal. As I have now been on the road for several years I have experienced some very strange, amusing, exciting and life threatening events. I am at present attempting to finish my next book which is set in South America. When you travel through this continent you realise that it is an incredibly vibrant place with a diversity of cultures to match, and even surpass, any other world continent. I have been with my Tenere for 12 years and it has had several refurbs but is still a super bike and going strong. It has featured at several shows, been photographed and also the subject of artistic studies. I attached one by Leonard Debonoid II.

Of course on our 'budget holiday' we have found it necessary to find the best in up-market accommodation. We were on our way to the Dakar rally and had be-friended an off-the-wall Polish guy who nearly got us thrown into prison. But enough of that! The extract below is just to prove that we frequently bedded down in some Ritz, or should I say Blitz, like accommodation.

Run Down Bedroom It is difficult to imagine life getting anymore strange than standing in the middle of a South American desert with five thousand people cheering, while our last-minute-recruited, Polish camera-man, sprinted across a sand dune, naked, followed by half of the Argentinian Police Force. Cathy and I were styling it up, as usual, in a top-quality hotel, 'hotel' being a ridiculous compliment to this establishment. We were in the city of San Juan, a modern city with wide, tree lined avenues irrigated by canals, from which it derives its nickname, Oasis Town. The city is in a fertile valley surrounded by rocky, mountainous desert. It was such a smart city that it was quite a struggle for me to find a place so bad, but when costs need, it can be done. Our room was a small outhouse on the roof of a Hotel El Dodgy, which I presume used to be a storage or laundry room. I provide a photo of a room to give you some idea of our up-market status. Actually a tad better than ours.

The only other use for the roof area was for the washing line, where the decidedly, World War Two-like sheets and blankets were hung. For some unknown reason there were also twelve truck tyres, five shop mannequins, with various limbs missing and a cardboard cut-out of Queen Victoria. It was waterlogged and lay on the concrete floor, as though Her Majesty had been assassinated on this roof. Our humble abode had free bedbugs galore, cockroaches, wet blankets (common, and my one nightmare), no toilet, no running water, and an inebriated, rusted fan hanging dangerously from the ceiling. It was close to thirty-five degrees, despite the altitude, so evidently, we slept well.

Meeting Princess AnneIf you want to follow the saga of the Dakar Destroyer, almost, it will be continued in the next log. Actually discussed this with Princess Anne who said, ''We are amused!''

Thursday 08/07/2021: Finally for this log an amazing mural appeared in two days on a derelict castle like building in Escondido. This artist deserves the utmost praise for his superb portrait and skills. Could not believe that I walked past the building with bare blank walls and 48 hours later this magnificent portrait was staring at me across the street. I will try to learn who did it so I can give him the praise he deserves.

Mural Of Old Woman Good news! Back on the bike after extensive repairs and have taken a 100k trip to Colotepec, to visit a sixteenth-century ruined church, which is being restored by five workers. We had a chat and their estimate is that it will take three years to complete by hard manual labour. Next to the ruin is a modern church and nearby some archaeological stones marking the ancient history of the different ethnic groups that still exist in the region. Worth a visit and to test the bike on some off road riding. All good.

Tomato sauce and porridge for strength for the road ahead. More pics on the Archive. Cathy and Spencer.


Colotepec Church Restoration

MORE MEXICO

Covid PinataMonday 21/06/2021: Have been checking out a tradition that is centuries-old here in Mexico known as Exvotos, that is folk-art that began as a religious nature and used to petition or thank God. Narrative votive paintings can be found by the thousands in many locations in Mexico although certain shrines and sanctuaries such as that of the Virgin of Guadalupe and in Chalma attract a very large number of them. Due to their proliferation, especially in the 18th and 19th century, many older votive paintings have left the places they were deposited and are found in public and private collections. The collecting of these was begun by Diego Rivera, whose work, along with those of a number of other painters past and present, has been influenced by them. Frida Kahlo's collection of ex votos is on public display in her family home, which she later shared with Rivera, her husband. An exvoto is a votive painting, which first appeared in the 16th century and became very popular in the 19th. Painted on a piece of metal or wood about 60 by 30 ctms., they gave thanks for, or in some cases, made requests, for divine help in solving a problem. Some were for saving people from harm. As the custom developed many highlighted important historical events, legends, folk dances, customs, and indigenous traditions. Some address serious social issues, such as unemployment, emigration, prostitution, gay rights and women. The tradition is still alive and centres on holy places. They appear in the churches in Escondido and recently depict scenes related to the Covid 19 pandemic. See Photo Archive for some more interesting Exvotos.

Megalodon Shark Wednesday 23/06/2021: Last LOG had some info on local crocodiles so to continue a maritime theme have been investigating sharks which are found north of where we stay. Apparently about 19 million years ago, sharks suffered a near wipe out. Fossils found in the Pacific Ocean reveal a previously unknown and dramatic shark extinction event, during which populations of the predators abruptly dropped by up to 90 percent. Marine scientists are unsure as to the cause of the decimation of these key components of modern ecosystems. The extinction led to a reduction in shark diversity by more than 70% and an almost complete loss in total abundance. Modern shark forms began to diversify within 2 to 5 million years after the extinction, but they represent only a minor proportion of the number of what sharks once were. Sharks have existed for 400 million years. Now, clues found in the fine red clay sediments beneath two vast regions of Pacific reveal that the ratio of sharks to fish had a dramatic change about 66 million year ago when at least 70 % of sharks disappeared. It seems that this occurred within a short time span of 100,000 years. Fish take over the territory where once sharks reigned supreme. Today there remains only a small percentage of the huge number that once inhabited the oceans. It is also a fact that sharks are being hunted today and may become extinct. A great pity as they are magnificent creatures.

Kutumundi Friday 25/06/2021: Have just had to move accommodation as previous became too expensive so now in a small 'apartment' surrounded by vegetation but with a view to the sea. It is fine but also inhabited by tarantula troops that come marching in at dusk. Disconcerting. The up-side is that we have larger wild life such as raccoons and the Kudamundi which live in regions of Central America and Brazil, and they're also an important part of wildlife in Mexico. Since it inhabits so many cultures, the coati has several names derived from languages like Portuguese, Guarani, Spanish and even Mayan: They are attractive and friendly. Babies have just appeared and are inquisitive little beings. We also have a variety of birds twittering away and not too peaceful in the morning so if you want to sleep late No chance. No worries as I am up very early. Best part of the day.

Saturday 26/06/2021: I was supposed to be headlining the Adventure Bike Rider festival in the UK but could not make it as stuck in Mexico but would like to share with you a 'happening'. The new Harley Davidson Adventure bike was on show but had a slight mishap as a demonstration of the bike sent up clouds of smoke in the arena. Not good for promoting the Harley. The video has been seen 258,000 times and shared by 2700. Actually it was only a loose hose that caused the problem and otherwise all good. Will point this out on social media sites as I am sure the bike must be top pedigree. You can witness yourself by following my < FACEBOOK PAGE >

Always like to record something relevant to Mexico in these Logs so a little on languages used in the country. 110 million speak Spanish but indigenous languages also have speakers. Namely Nahuatl (Nahuatl, Nahuat, Nahual, Macehualtlahtol, Melatahtol), 1,376,026, Yucatec Maya (Maaya t'aan) 759,000, Mixtec (Tu'un sávi) 423,216, and Zapotec (Diidxaza) 410,901.

The Comcaac There is a difference in pronunciation between Mexican Spanish and that used in Spain specifically in z and c before an i or e. This sounds like s in Mexico, but "th"in Spain, for example, Barcelona. Additionally, Spanish from Spain tends to be more guttural, due to its Arabic influences, whereas Mexican Spanish is softer. The local languages were superseded in many regions by the introduction of European culture after the Conquest. This affected indigenous culture and influenced the traditions of local people. Music, dress and art changed and regional languages were threatened with extinction. Of course this has happened elsewhere in the world where the colonial language became the means of communication of the country. In a move to protect the local languages some musicians sing wholly or in part in the language of their communities. This is a planned attempt to protect indigenous languages and is vital since of the 63 indigenous languages, and 350 dialects, recognized by the Mexican government, most are in danger of disappearing. One pre conquest language has only two speakers used by old men.

Many young people do not use their indigenous languages outside of their families because of discrimination or because they do not see it as relevant to the modern world. This was also the situation in Swaziland when I lived there. Parents who had not the benefit of schooling found that their children preferred to use English for communication rather than Siswati. In Mexico some musicians are singing in indigenous languages striving to keep such languages alive. In addition, the lyrics they write talk about their communities' cultures as well as socio-political issues. The latter is particularly true for those who perform rap and hip-hop. Indigenous women are also defending their culture and fighting against machismo to the rhythm of rap. It seems that they are having some success as their music appeals to the younger generation of Mexicans who sing along with the musicians. It is becoming quite dynamic.

Beddie BikeOpen this < YOUTUBE LINK > to see and listen to the video on Mexican music that depicts present and past aspects of the art form reflecting the culture of the country. La Sandunga is both beautiful and dramatic.

Sunday 27/06/2021: Cannot close this entry without including a photo of the latest life style in vogue in a certain part of the world. A country of ingenuity and survival. Guess where! If you want to rest while on the move this is the way to do it. Until next time banana and coconut curry on the menu. Cathy and Spencer


Escondido Crocodile DANGER LURKS

Thursday10/06/2021: I expect by now everybody knows of the crocodile attack near where we stay and as mentioned in the previous log. Of course when you read this it will be stale news but from Escondido this is the facts. The girl who was attacked was swimming in an area known to be a danger zone for its large crocodile population. Melissa Laurie, 28, and twin sister Georgia, from Berkshire, UK, were on a night tour on Manialtepec Lagoon to view the spectacle of bioluminescence in the water. The sisters and 23 other tourists were taken by boat at sunset to Puerto Suelo beach where, contrary to an earlier report, guides told them that there were crocodiles present, as reported in the local news portal Ecos del Pacífico. In party mood, a number of the tourists diverged from the group and walked across the beach to the mouth of the lagoon where they entered the water. According to witnesses, the sisters swam through the river which connects the lagoon to the beach, advancing more than 300 meters against the current. They tired, and chose to swim to shore over a grassy area without noticing that there was a crocodile within. Melissa Laurie was attacked by the reptile and dragged underwater. Her sister fought it off, punching it until it let go.

Guillermo Silva, a local public safety officer, took part in an investigation to reconfigure the events. He attested to the dangers of swimming in the area, and explained his theory as to why the crocodile attacked. "This is not an area for tourism, it's an area that nests crocodiles above all else. It is rainy season and that makes it even easier for crocodiles to nest. Where the accident happened there is a probability of nesting crocodiles, and a female could have been defending her eggs," he said.

Both girls were treated locally in hospital and recovering from their nightmare. Will stay clear of the area in future but we often see crocs on beaches so we are aware of the danger.

Calle HidalgoSaturday 12/06/2021: Travelling around the world one recognises that history and change is recorded in street names. Swaziland, my homeland, is now called Eswatini and the main street in Mbabane was called Allister Miller after the colonial governor, now Gwamile street, as a place name. If you want to know the history of Mexico take note of the street names The most common street names in Mexico are Miguel Hidalgo, Emiliano Zapata, Benito Juárez and 5 de Mayo.

Viva Zapata Miguel Hidalgo is called the "father of the nation" and the "father of independence." Hidalgo was one of several leading fighters against the Spanish. He rallied the people of the village of Dolores, where Hidalgo was the parish priest, on September 15, 1810. to join him in rebellion. This act officially marks the start of Mexico's independence and is recreated every year as part of independence celebrations.

Emiliano Zapata was the leader of the Liberation Army of the South, one of the major factions fighting during the decade-long Mexican Revolution. Zapata's name is the best remembered in Mexico and most recognized internationally. Zapata's ideas about land and agrarian reform found their way into the current 1917 constitution, and his name and image are still invoked in struggles of the rural poor. Many may have watched the movie 'Viva Zapata' starring Marlon Brando which is a rather romanticised film of his exploits.

Battle Of The Pueblo Benito Juárez may be the closest thing Mexico has to a secular saint. Born 1806 in rural Oaxaca, Juárez was a full-blooded Zapotec who studied law to help his people. The 19th century was a time of constant civil wars and coups d'état and Juárez spent his life fighting either French invaders and conservative factions among his own countrymen.

The date of 5 de Mayo is the anniversary of the Battle of Puebla which took place near Puebla City during the Second French intervention in Mexico. The battle ended in a victory by the Mexican Army over the French Army. It is a day of celebrating Mexican heritage often with large quantities of alcohol and colourful costumes.

Early InhabitantWednesday 16/06/2021: To continue with the historical theme and long before streets existed it appears that people reached the Americas around 30,000 years ago as proven by rabbit bones excavated from a Mexican rock-shelter This is long before originally believed.

Sediment contained chipped and sharp-edged stones regarded as tools and analyses revealed that humans were living in the cave between 13,500 and 9,900 years ago. It is assumed that food and water sources lessened when the Ice Age peaked between 26,000 and 19,000 years ago, causing the earliest settlers to leave and delaying further occupations until conditions improved.

Friday 18/06/2021: I have discovered that there is a reason as to why I often hear different sounds in Escondido all of which have a purpose. One frequently echoes in the town "Ya llegó Gas Express! / ¡Gas Expess ya está aqui!". Gas delivery! Not all regions have gas delivered by pipe so bottled gas is sold by vendors from vans.

Garbage CollectorNow if you don't want rubbish to accumulate in the streets or in your garden you have to listen for the sound of cow bells that are rung by a man running past your house ringing a cow bell as loudly as possible. This happens twice a week and is a council service. If you miss out private rubbish collectors pass through shouting "Quiere basuraaaaaa" "want rubbish". Walk out of your house and wave them down! You can give them your rubbish bags for a few pesos.

Street Vendors Not so long ago in the UK one used to hear 'Knives to sharpen!' or 'Any old iron!' here in Mexico if you hear a high-pitched whistle it is the same. Take out your knives and for a small fee they will be made razor sharp. Of course like everywhere in South and Central America you will hear voices of street vendors selling a variety of wares. The most prominent often are of those selling food.

Sunday 20/06/21: To complete this log looks as if I will have to keep alcohol out of reach of beer drinking tarantulas Caught this one looking for sustenance. This is Tarantula Bacchanalia a specimen not often seen in day light. Happy to have spotted it. Crocs visiting next.

Can You Believe It?

Stay well cucumbers on toast with mayonnaise. Spencer and Cathy. PS Check photo archive for more pics.


Bum Biting Beast THINGS AMAZING

Wednesday 19/05/2021: HI think everyone knows that I have a habit of having run-ins with things natural so no surprise that I experienced another 'event' that caused lightning fast reactions, and some hilarity for a not too sympathetic person, that has just added to my table of encounters. OK. Nothing ever, ever attacks me in a normal manner or in a normal place. It's finally happened and it had to be at close quarters. This guy was in my shorts.

A beast that was hanging in the shower room and it bit me on my one and only beautiful, petal smelling bum. I ripped my shorts to pieces but didn't injure him and released him onto a leaf outside. Cathy Nel was in hysterics. Not painful. 50 to 200 children they have, so expecting more visitors. Can anyone ID this Tarantula bum biter? Told it was Davus Pentaloris, Guatemalan Tiger Rump Tarantula.

Saturday 21/05/2021: After my recent 'save the spider' incident I came across some information that might prevent further encounters. Apparently some spiders avoid building their webs in chambers that recently housed fire ants. Researchers say the ants probably left behind chemical traces that could signal danger to the arachnids because ants sometimes feast on spiders. The reaction hints that the insects might be a source of natural spider-repelling chemicals. Andreas Fischer, an arachnologist at Simon Fraser University in Burnaby, Canada says the finding is exciting. A research team plans to pinpoint what chemical spooks the spiders to use as a deterrent. "I really hope that people don't get fire ants as they are aggressive, horrendous pests with incredibly painful stinging bites'' says Andreas.Those native to South America are among the most invasive species in the world. As you may recollect I was attacked by fire-ants and I can say the bite is excruciating. Better to have tarantulas!

Te Manawa An Arawa Warrior Tuesday 25/05/2021: On to another piece of information that you can't live without. The phenomenon of tattooing was once widespread. In 'The Descent of Man' (1871) Charles Darwin wrote that there was no country in the world that did not practice tattooing or some other form of permanent body decoration. This example is from New Zealand.

Aztec Wing Tattoo For those interested in little known facts I let you in to a secret about those who have a penchant for tattoos. You have something in common with your ancient ancestors. Recent microscopic studies of two turkey leg bones with sharpened ends indicate that Native Americans used them to make tattoos between around 5,520 and 3,620 years ago. These pigment-stained bones are the world's oldest known tattooing tools, Ötzi the Iceman, who lived around 5,250 years ago in Europe, displays the oldest known tattoos but researchers haven't found any of the tools used to make the Iceman's tattoos.

The turkey bones and other elements are part of a probable tattoo kit found in a burial pit in Tennessee. Damage on the tips of the two turkey leg bones resembles distinctive wear previously observed on experimental tattooing tools made from deer bones. Pigment-stained seashells in the grave may have held solutions into which tattooists dipped those tools. Here in Mexico tattooists make their craft an art.

Five To A Scooter Monday31/05/2021: Having covered more than 165.000 Ks on a bike I have seen some unusual ways to maximise their use. In México I recorded five people riding on a scooter, and later learned that it is called a "moto-sardine'' which is not uncommon throughout Mexico. The riders attempted to hide their identities as it is illegal to carry more than the number of passengers for which the vehicle is designed. It is also against the law to carry cargo or passengers in such a way that it obstructs the view of the driver or the balance of the vehicle, as was clearly the case. I did not report them!

Human Brain Tuesday 01/06/2021: Another month and my brain is losing track of time and place and whilst searching for a solution to becoming brain addled have just read that playing brain training games regularly doesn't boost brainpower. (Actually don't indulge in such a pastime) Scientific research has shown that even among dedicated players, games don't boost brainpower. It has been claimed that by playing online problem-solving, matching and other games , people can improve mental abilities such as reasoning, verbal skills and memory. When researchers analysed results, they found that brain trainers had no mental edge over others in memory, verbal skills and reasoning. Even among the most dedicated, who had used training programs for at least 18 months, brain training didn't boost thinking abilities above the level of people who didn't use the programs.

Contemplation That's not because brain trainers have poorer function to start with and then improved. Participants who had trained for less than a month, and presumably wouldn't have reaped significant benefits from the programs, performed on par with people who didn't train at all. Researchers did not find any evidence that brain training was associated with cognitive abilities That held true for participants by age, program used, education or socioeconomic status – all were cognitively similar to those who didn't use the programs. One researcher said that real world experiences may be the best brain trainer. While it's possible to improve mental abilities, practicing those skills in different real-life situations, is a much better use of one's time than sitting at a computer and doing little tasks.

So will live in the real world to keep my brain active!

Many of you know that we attract dogs of all shapes, sizes and breeds. I had a Border Colie who was the smartest dog ever. Knew exactly what I was thinking and mirrored my moods daily. So I could not resist leaving this LOG without providing you with a realistic picture of man in contemplation with his loyal and sympathetic friend. Actually another example of wall art. Really.

STOP PRESS...

Thursday 06/06/2021:
Just learnt of a frightening and life threatening experience not far from where we stay in Puerto Escondido. An English girl, Melissa Laurie, 28, and her twin sister Georgia were on a night tour to view the bioluminescence at Manialtepec Lagoon when they went into the water for a swim But Melissa Laurie was snatched by a crocodile and dragged beneath the surface. After searching frantically for several minutes, Georgia found her sister floating face down in the water. But as she cradled her sister in her arms and began to swim back to the boat, the crocodile attacked again. Georgia fought it off, punching the reptile until it let go. Both are in hospital with Melissa in a critical condition. Her sister suffered bite wounds to several parts of her body. Will be avoiding that lagoon in future.

Fried tarantulas on toast and stay away from shark infested waters. Cathy and Spencer. P.S... go to the PHOTO ARCHIVE for more incredible photos.


Mexican Religious Wood Panel MAKING PLANS

Wednesday 07/05/2021: Hoping to make some plans to move from Escondido in the near future but this is becoming a boring issue for readers, so once again will try to keep interest going on some more information on Mexico which has such a fascinating culture and history. This week a little on the status of religion in the country.

There is evidence of inhabitants in Mexico more than 10,000 years ago, and the country is considered as one of the cradles of civilization. Scholars accept that the cultures of Mesoamerica, that mainly existed in Mexico, and the civilization in Norte Chico, a region in the coastal area of Peru, dating back to 3500BCE, emerged independently from other world centres. The development of the Mexico centre began in 7000 BCE. Much later, during the 300-year rule by the Spanish, it became a crossroads for the people and cultures of Europe, Africa, and Asia. The Spanish arrival and colonization brought Roman Catholicism to the country, the main religion of Mexico. Roman Catholics are by far the majority of the Christian worshipers.

Execution Of Miguel ProAlthough the country's population is mainly Roman Catholic it is in fact a secular state, as designated in the Constitution of 1917. The Government introduced anti-clerical laws that imposed limitations on church influence. In 1927 the National League for the Defence of Religious Liberty stimulated the Cristeros, an army of Catholic rebels, mainly of peasant stock, to oppose the anti Christian government forces of president Plutarco Elías Calles. After a long and very violent struggle, the Cristeros gained a foothold for religious freedom. During the struggle many were executed by Government forces.

Tepotzotlan Church The government does not provide any financial contributions to the church, and the church does not participate in public education. It is estimated that 90% of the population claim to be Christian and over 50% attend weekly church services. Mexico has the world's second largest number of Catholics, after Brazil. The influence of the church is obvious in many aspects of life and culture, particularly in the more rural areas. Art and architecture glory in the religious heritage.

There are more than 90 Cathedrals in Mexico and most reflect the influence of the Spanish, none more so than in the Baroque style brought from Europe. Cathedral and Church architecture has multiple examples of the Baroque as in the magnificent façade of Topotzotlan Church.

Sanctuary St, Timothy Escondido In Escondido there are many churches serving the Roman Catholic community. They are varied in style and one modern concrete edifice is yet to be finished. It is a huge structure covering a whole block but I show here a photo of a more traditional representation from the sanctuary of St Thomas's.

Thursday 20/05/2021: I jump several days as have just the usual day to day activity which is to walk the five ks to the Gym in the morning and then back to greet the fishermen and buy a fish for a meal. Sometimes walk along the beach in the afternoon and later do some writing. Although this seems ideal it has become a boring existence. Have tried to find some teaching work but unsuccessful as most schools have been closed in the Covid pandemic.

Multi Lightning Strike Friday 21/05/2021: As mentioned in the last log pre-Hispanic artefacts were up for auction by Sotheby's in New York. Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History was trying to stop the sale but failed, nineteen were sold for a combined total of just under US $657,500 . The Maya stone effigy, pictured in the last log, sold for $352,800. Made between A.D. 550 and 950, the late classic period piece is related to a Mesoamerican ballgame that depicts a bat, a jaguar and a serpent.

Among the other Mexican pieces sold at the auction were an A.D. 250–450 Maya orangeware vessel of a waterbird. A 900–300 B.C. Olmec greenstone figure with a supernatural mask; a Nayarit kneeling female figure and several other examples of Mesoamerican sculpture. All items went to museums or private buyers.

Monday 24/05/2021: I have just discovered the existence of an amazing female Mexican artist Paola Delfin whose work is mainly influenced by illustrations and organic forms. She uses a mixture of unusual materials to explore a variety of topics to beauty and truth from a feminine perspective. Paola recognised that her messages need to be large for full impact and she has works around the world using this principle. Her philosophy of life has a resonance with me.

Paola Delfin In Kiev Shelter"I believe, besides any difficulty in life, we all have a shelter to turn to. I painted this wall thinking of that idea. I come from a country which is a beautiful place but is going through some difficult moments, same as Ukraine, so no matter which kind of troubles are going on, there is always a place of peace, even if everything seems dark. I chose to paint this mural in black and white and cut it in two pieces, because I believe beauty can present itself in the darkest moments."

She has to work from high rise ladders to create her imposing and beautiful artistic works, such as the one in Kiev depicted.

Friday 28/05/2021: To complete this log must thank KLIM for sponsorship of gear so include an example of their super art work that depicts riding bikers. Wish I could be doing the same but have just broken my big toe so once more in despair. Been told by a Doctor that it will take eight weeks to heal. Would you Adam and Eve it? Curried snails and custard. Cathy and Spencer.


Gear  Sponsership by KLIM

Singing Revolutionaries MORE MEXICO MATTERS

Tuesday 04/05/2021: Still here and waiting for final repairs to the bike and as before, hoping to move in the next couple of weeks. Dream on! In other logs I have provided a fair amount of information on the sights of Mexico so this week decided on covering some on the sounds of this vibrant country as music is always present and exciting.

The foundation of Mexican music comes from its indigenous heritage as the original inhabitants used drums, such as the teponaztli, flutes, rattles, conches as trumpets and their voices to make music. This ancient music is still played in some parts of Mexico. Much of the contemporary music of Mexico was written during and after the Spanish colonial period, for traditional instruments. During the fight for independence the revolutionaries often encouraged themselves with patriotic songs.

Mexican Musicians With Vihuela < Click to hear Mariachi Alas de Mexico (Fiesta de Mexico) >

Today modern versions of the instruments are played like the vihuela as used in Mariachi music. This instrument is strummed with all of the fingernail tips to produce a rich, full and clear sound of the chords.Many vihuela players have longer than normal fingernails on their strumming hand to facilitate their playing technique and to get a clear crystal sound. In Mariachi bands there is always one vihuela player along with several violinists. They wear traditional clothes and accompany dancers dressed in colourful costumes.

In the colonial period regional musical groups existed throughout the country but a national music began to develop in the nineteenth century. This heralded in a nationalistic flavour and military bands flourished. The National Conservatory of Music was founded in 1866 and the National anthem was composed by a Cuban, Jaime Nuno Music became very patriotic.

< Click to hear Mexico Lindo y Querido | Playing For Change >

A variety of musical styles from elsewhere was incorporated into Mexican popular music in more recent times including Afro-Caribbean rhythms from Cuba and Haiti. Music, dance, and poetry flourished in the late 19th century and additionally the National Conservatory of Music was strongly influenced by Italian and French composers at the turn of the twentieth century.

Mexican Musicians Having mentioned Italian and French composers brings to mind a mad Irishman, Brian Fitzgerald, who became obsessed with attempting to build an Opera House in Peru, not Mexican I know but worth mentioning as the German director, Werner Hertzog, made an amazing film about him called 'Fitzcarraldo' Not to be missed if you can find it. Five and a half stars!!

And for those who would like a moment of happiness and joy but with a message in the lyrics, please listen to Guantanamera which is a compilation of performing musicians, mainly from Cuba with the rhythm of the Americas. It is also sad for me as my mother loved this music. Click on the image below and don't forget to watch the 'little lighty' near the end...

Guantanamera | Playing For Change

Friday 07/05/2021: Must include a mural to bring me down to earth. It is a painting of 'wonder-wheels' and is useful as a precursor to my next text which is some advice on bike riding in Mexico, following on from a previous comment on driving.

Wonder WheelsBe careful if you try to pass other drivers as they sometimes change direction without signalling and at other times a blinker is used to signal it is safe to overtake. Beware! Many roads do not have pavements so pedestrians are often in the road and, at times, step far out to avoid hazards. It is not uncommon for vehicles to stop in the middle of the road to greet friends or to have a business meeting. Watch out for motorists who suddenly decide to exit, both right and left. Heavily laden vehicles deposit their loads without warning bringing traffic to a sudden stop. Quite often there are police check points. Be polite and patient as they are probably looking for criminals. Let common sense prevail.

Mayan Stone Carving Thursday 13/05/2021: Missed a few days as have been working on the Tenere which is a nightmare as parts that have to be replaced have seized in their housings so difficult to extract them. Still working on it!! Will it ever be back on the road?

One item in the news to mention is that Sotheby's in New York are auctioning artefacts from Mexico in a sale of South and Central American items. One of these is a Mayan stone carving from A.D. 550 to 950 with a starting price of US $38,000. The online auction lists 26 Mesoamerican pieces. Sotheby's describes it as an artefact that probably represents a ritual effigy of equipment used in a Mesoamerican ballgame, in this case an axe. It seems a pity that these heritage artefacts will go to a buyer and be locked away in a private vault.

Lastly please go to the Photo Archive, here > for a stunning mural that had to be photographed and have named it 'Serenity'. The clarity is exceptional and is a stunning image. Pea soup and coconut husks. Love from Cathy and Spencer.


ALAS, STILL HERE

Mexican Map Monday 26/04/2021: It looks like the UK has made steady progress on controlling the epidemic and people are free to roam, albeit with some restrictions. Well done NHS and vaccination programme but until coronavirus is under control world-wide the threat will remain and international spread will not be controlled. Mexico is making some progress in its fight against the disease but as yet we are limited in what we can do. The local inhabitants are not that phased and life follows much the same pattern as in the past few months, maybe we can be on the move soon.

As I mentioned a couple of entries ago sharks were sighted off the coast nearby and sometimes close to the beach areas but now discovery has been made of Great Whites in the Gulf of California off the coast of Mexico. This is not that great a distance by shark swim from our locality. Evidence has been provided by fishermen based on San Esteban Island who have caught at least fourteen Great Whites, sold their meat and kept some teeth and jaws as trophies and proof.

JawsIt has been known for some time that sharks breed in this area but there are only a few hunting grounds for the Great Whites and it is illegal to fish for them. One of the largest Whites recorded was known in the area and was recorded as over 20 feet in length. If they continue to be hunted they will be extinct in a few years. Marine scientists from America are attempting to protect them. Let's hope they succeed. They are such awe-inspiring creatures and hope they come this way.

Wednesday 28/04/2021: As discussed in the last log the Tarahumara are amazing long-distance runners and their marathons are part of ancient tradition but another aspect of their life is the observation of Santa Semana which has just been celebrated.

Tarahumara Dancers During Holy Week, the Tarahumara will dance from dawn to dusk to the rhythm of the drum, which they will play for hours without rest. The dances signify a clash between good and evil. With each footstep they believe they are weakening the Devil and thanking God. There are references to Christ's death, crucifixion and resurrection. The dancers form a vibrant procession of various characters, drummers, flautists and many who carry banners and flags. The front of the line includes a village woman who bears a depiction of Jesus, a man wearing a large conical hat resembling a piñata, and various mestizo ladies carrying crosses made from palm branches and statues of Mary and Jesus. The whole village follows the dancers and drummers in colourful waving streams.

In the most traditional part of the celebration, villagers split into groups the chamucos, representing the righteous, and the morocos, the devils, and then they wrestle while an excited crowd cheers. The scene is chaotic — multiple matches going on, stumbling bodies succumbing to the pressure of weight and limbs. After triumph over evil the drumming starts again and dancing continues for several more days. Finally there is cessation and village life resumes. The Tarahumara are not exhausted, which shows their stamina and endless energy. I have to add that during the whole period of dancing the men are fed a special beer brew and smoke a weed that induces a trance like state.

Moustache Clinic Friday 30/04/2021: Noticed an unusual 'clinic' sign today which I gather is quite popular among certain males who sport a manly encumbrance. Men come from miles to have treatment for upper-lip treatment. I am not in need of such so do not have to bother and can walk by nonchalantly. I don't think Jesus ever had need of such a clinic.

Saturday 01/05/2021: Another month!! Time does not stand still and feeling pretty depressed as no progress is being made. Also, as you know, my bike parts have arrived but not yet back on the road. A biker without a bike is like a camel without a hump if you follow my meaning. But as I think about it adventure biking is not all plain ...riding and many people are in more desperate situations The bike, and still being here, brings to mind an incident that I experienced in Africa which, forgive me, I am going to relate at length. It is an excerpt from 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker.'

"I was feeling pretty down about the bike problems and my lack of progress, as I walked past the street children once again. 'Forrest' was always polite and not pushy and because I was wallowing in my self-pity, I didn't notice him walking next to me, almost running in fact, to keep up with my strides. I felt a tug on my shirt and looked down next to me. He said nothing, but looked up at me, imploringly. His nose was running and he had a brown, dirt stain on his hair, where he had obviously laid his head down to sleep the night before. I felt a stab of sadness and hopelessness, and reached down and brushed the dirt from his hair. I said to him, "Attends! Attends un moment!" and headed down the road to the nearest street vendor. I bought him some cheap Chinese chocolate from a vendor wearing a David Beckham shirt and bedroom slippers. I wrapped a small amount of money around the sweets and approached Forrest with my hand outstretched. When he looked down at his hand, it dawned on him what I had given him. His face slowly contorted into a grimace and he burst into a flood of tears, his shoulders wracked with emotion, his face collapsing with grief and thanks at the same time. I was so taken aback I gave him a big hug, but had to walk off, as I was being watched, and I could feel the tears welling up in my eyes. I wanted to hug him some more and say it would all be OK, but that's only in films, and it was not going to be OK. It was soul-destroying, and had a real effect on me. I decided to go for a walk to clear my head and wandered around aimlessly for a half hour. I eventually made it to the outskirts of the city. I turned down a wide boulevard with a derelict grassy area running down the left hand side of the road. Set on the 'lawn' was a funfair of sorts; rickety, rusted swings and slides and a dodgy-looking dodgem track. All the cars were occupied, but the strange thing I quickly noticed was that everyone was driving extremely carefully and politely, making great efforts to avoid one another! The absolute opposite to their driving ethos on real roads and, let's face it, not really the point of bumper cars! What a strange world we live in."

Life is so full of contrasts.

Once Upon A Time

Ice cream sandwiches and happiness. Spencer and Cathy


MEXICO HERITAGE

Monday 01/03/2021: Another month and still in Mexico and obviously I am not an Adventure Bike Rider at the moment as the covid pandemic has restricted travel but hopefully in a few weeks will be able to continue on my continental quest. Probably will head north to America and, in time, up to Alaska.

Las SoldaderasTo prove I have been an adventurer I am providing a link to some promos of my travels around Africa and South and Central America.

< African Motorcycle Diaries - Promo >
< South America Motorcycle Diaries - Snippet >

Wednesday 03/03/2021: Back to more snippets on things Mexican as nothing much to say on biking exploits. In November 1910, Mexico was plunged into a long civil war between the federal government, run by dictator Porfirio Díaz Mori, and thousands of revolutionaries from various factions. For the revolutionaries, the war was an opportunity to overthrow the outdated class system put in place by the Spanish elite. The revolutionaries were fighting for the people who worked the land, for the mestizos; a war for the indigenous; and a war for the poor. Women took up the cause and joined the fighters. They were known as The Soldaderas, but the term Adelitas ,"little Angels", is used in Mexico today to refer to women who participated in the Mexican Revolution, battling government forces. The term Adelitas originally referred to the nurses with revolutionary forces.

Reward For Pancho Villa The revolution is recognized as the first major political, social, and cultural uprising of the 20th century. Prior to the arrival of European conquistadors, the region was home to one of the world's advanced Empires: the Aztecs. After the Spanish conquest of 1521, the most powerful group in Mexico were Spanish-born citizens. Three centuries later, in 1821, after ten years of war the country gained independence from Spain. However the war mainly benefited the criollo (Spanish-blooded upper class) minority. This led to the revolutionary struggle now known as the Mexican Revolution. The two most famous and powerful leaders were Emiliano Zapata and Francisco ('Pancho') Villa, who typified the main characteristics of the popular movement.

Avocados Friday 05/03/2021: As mentioned in the last LOG Mexican craftsmen are skilled at making metal, silver and gold filigree articles of jewellery so here is an example of arracadas (earings). In Mexican folk art there is a long tradition of using metal to create wall decorations and artefacts. Go to the Photo Archive for examples >

Saturday 06/03/2021: Most people know about drug wars in Mexico but not so well known are the Avocado Wars. These are causing problems for farmers as conflict is common over land appropriation in order to grow avocados which bring huge profit to gangs who seize the land. These wars affect mainly Mexico and Chile. But why the name avocado? When the Aztecs discovered the avocado they named it '?huacatl', which means "testicle." The texture, shape, and size of the fruit, as well as the way it grows in pairs, inspired the name avocado.

Gareth Jones Sunday 07/03/2021: Just received news of my friend Gareth Jones who is prone to indulging in mud baths. He is trying to get through Africa on a Harley Davidson 1300 road bike. Madman! Looks like he is having a spot of bovver! hiding in mud somewhere whilst bemused spectators look on. God luck buddy and carry on. You will make it.

Bobcat Sitting In A CactusMonday 08/03/2021: Caught a glimpse of a bobcat in a Pipe cactus. Always special when one sees a natural creature in its habitat. The Mexican bobcat is found throughout Mexico, but primarily in Baja, western Mexico, and southward from the Sonoran desert. It lives in a variety of areas, including forests, coastal swamps, deserts, and scrublands. The animals are non-migratory and are territorial. Sad when mankind is unkind to the wild areas of the planet by destroying areas like the Amazon forests and driving roads through AFRICA.

Lastly, check out the Photo Archive for some recent pictures. Take care and baked-beans with avocados on toast. Spencer and Cathy.


DAY BY DAY

Wednesday 14/04/2021: It is simply day by day these days. Dreams are fading as here we still are in Mexico and both time and finances slipping by with little hope of change at the moment. Have to maintain a sense of stability in trying times. Fingers crossed that we will all be able to experience a semblance of normality in the coming days and months.

Tarahumara As you know I have always followed extreme sports and one of these is ultra-marathon running. Here in Mexico there is a tribe of indigenous people who participate in runs of 100 miles or more, for enjoyment. They are the Tarahumara or Rarámuri, who run vast distances often wearing sandals, huaraches, a traditional form of minimal footwear that has tire treads as soles. They say running is in their blood: isolation and hilly terrain helped them build endurance to hunt prey and to contact others. They live in widely dispersed settlements, and have a tradition of long-distance running of up to 200 miles (320 km) in one session. This is often over a period of two days through their homeland of rough canyon country. They became famous after they were featured in 'Born to Run', a bestseller by Christopher McDougall, an American who lived with them for some time to study their life and customs. Rarámuri, means "runners on foot" or "those who run fast". Each year they organise a 100k marathon and non-Tarahumara also participate. The video provides an inkling of what they are about but best to read the book if at all interested in long distance running. Click on this link or the image above to access a youtube documentary >

Mexican DriversThursday 15/04/2021: Travelling on roads in Mexico is an 'extreme' experience and could be termed a 'SPORT' In cars, taxis, buses, all kinds of vehicles drivers wait a few moments at a red light and then, becoming bored, drive off in any direction they choose. Seems as if many have a death wish. Somehow accidents are avoided as if drivers are protected by the gods. On mountain road sides I have seen many crosses where there has been a ghastly accident, some where busses have careered off the side of a pass. In towns and cities dented bumpers and bonnets appear to be the extent of damage. Once a taxi ran into the back of my bike and my number plate was damaged. A slight inconvenience.

Yellow Bellied Sea Snake Saturday 17/04/2021: Had an encounter with creatures of nature today. One very innocent and harmless the other, I learnt, was deadly. The former was a Puffer fish that was washed up onto the sandy beach and was struggling for survival. Tried to save him but failed as he was too distressed. The other was a Yellow-Bellied Sea Snake that is apparently one of the most deadly of the species. Being a stupid fellow, me, not the snake, I picked it up to inspect before letting it go. Moved away pretty quickly into the sea!! Is this another 'extreme' sport to add to my list?

Sea Captain Monday 19/04/2021: Just thought you'd like to know that I am now a Sea Captain with a bona-fide yatch to sail. Waiting for bookings from rich clients to go deep sea fishing. Not true. I'm afraid' but a nice dream to keep active and quell the boredom.

Straw Hut Brigade Wednesday 21/04/2021: Rode straight into a machete wielding demonstration about land rights, so jumped off to film. The Boss approached me and said 'No photos. 'He asked me if I was scared of all the machetes and I said 'No,' He looked me in the eyes, barked some orders to the Police and said 'You can take photos'. The Straw-Hat Brigade saluted and waved their machetes. Love Mexico!

Friday 23/04/2021: Visited a local church and found that a ceremony was in progress and afterwards children dressed for the occasion formed up on the steps for photographs. Once again you cannot escape the colour and vibrancy of Mexican life as shown in the dress of the youngsters.

Mario GonzalesDressed In FinerySaturday 24/04/2021: Good news! My bike spares have arrived from the UK after another transit saga, around the world in ?? days, 22 stops on the way! Not too bad. Now have to rebuild the Tenere and get it back on the road and might be able to do some riding. Will be in the workshop with Mario as soon as pos and hope all goes well.

Some other news is that Sam Manicom has accepted a chapter I sent to him for his latest book which will be a compilation of writings from Adventurers from around the world. Should be very interesting, both serious and amusing. Look forward to it Sam. Well done Buddy.

Also I have been in touch with Adventure Show oganisers to cancel this year as Covid has scotched my attendance but have been asked to Headline all four major Shows in UK next year... NEC Show London, The Overland Event, Horizons Unlimited HUBB and The Adventure Bike Rider Show ABR. Will make them all.

STOP PRESS...

Thank you to John Small, Managing Director of Cool Covers for the sponsorship. Looking forward to testing out the new seat cover in hot and rainy conditions. Let's see if it does what it says on the Tin! Thanks for sending it to Mexico! Check link for info on Cool Covers products >

Also, click on the image below or the following link for an in-depth interview on the recent Teapot One - Bru Time Podcast > where you will hear more about our plans and past adventures from Cathy and myself. I am told that it comes over as informative and interesting. Enjoy.

Tea Pot One Bru Time Podcast


Christ And The Virgin Mother MEXICO MAROONED

Wednesday 30/03/2021: By the time you read this Easter would have been and gone but I have decided to provide some info on how it is recognised in Mexico. Holy Week and Easter is known as Semana Santa and on Palm Sunday, Domingo de Ramos, prior to Easter, the arrival of Jesus in Jerusalem is commemorated throughout Mexico. According to the Bible Jesus rode into Jerusalem on a donkey and the people in the streets laid down palm branches in his path. In many towns and villages on this day there are processions re-enacting Jesus's triumphal entry, and woven palms are sold outside churches It is a time of joy and family get-togethers.

Thursday 01/04/2021: Another month gone by and Mexicans everywhere are preparing for Easter celebrations and for gatherings on the beach after religious services. However 'Be Afraid, Very Afraid.' The unusual sighting of two sharks uncomfortably close to an Oaxaca beaches has caused authorities to issue warnings to take precautions or, preferably, not to enter the sea at all.

Megalodon SharkThe sharks were spotted near the shore of Mermejita beach in Mazunte, between Puerto Escondido and Huatulco. Massive megalodons used to rule the seas between about 23 million to 2.5 million years ago, as pictured in the illustration. Why these giants got so big isn't known, but may be due to a combination of warm-bloodedness, readily available large prey — and cannibalization. Those spotted not quite as big but still dangerous. Must get some shark repellent spray, freely available in the local supermarket. Two for one! Don't know anyone who has used it or quite how it works!!

Good Friday 02/04/2021: The warning about the sharks went unheeded as a party atmosphere prevailed in Puerto Escondido, especially on and around Playa Zicatela, the resort town's famous surfing beach. Young local revellers packed bars and other venues that line the beach front Social distancing was also ignored which led to breaking basic health rules. Authorities did nothing to enforce them. Surely this would lead to more Covid-19 cases

Baro Negro Pot Tuesday 06/04/2021: After the events of Easter decided to research another artefact that is very common in the craft markets and which is known as Barro negro pottery ("black clay") This is a style of pottery from Oaxaca and is distinguished by its colour, sheen and unique designs. It heralds from ancestral craft is still used in everyday life; and is a much appreciated style of pottery in Mexico. In ages past it was only in a greyish matte finish. Sometime in the 1950s, Doña Rosa Real discovered that she could change the colour and shine of the pieces by polishing the clay pieces. Just before the formed clay piece is completely dry, it is polished with a quartz stone to compress the surface. After firing, the piece emerges a shiny black instead of a dull grey. Many different kinds of objects are made of Barro negro including pots, whistles, flutes, bells, masks, lamps, and animal figures. The pots are truly stunning and are collected all over the world.

Thursday 08/04/2021: Just thought I would include a couple of 'artistic' shots, one to show that Cathy is still here. She hasn't done a runner and is very much in Mexico. She has tested a Honda 150 recently and goes for an early morning walk along the beach most days avoiding crocodiles and sharks.

Cathy Walking The Beach
Also noticed these notices worth noting near other notices on an un-notable day when not much else worth noticing and not much else to note...

Cattle RustlersSunday 11/04/2021: Lastly for this week a blast from the past as from Mexico not too much to excite. Came across something that reminded me of my early days in Africa, Kenya, to be precise. Used to wander around the bush with friends and my brother oblivious to any dangers. Lived in a mud hut with my parents for a year and often went 'cattle-rustling'. Very happy days of freedom and enjoyment. Kenya's President was Jomo Kenyatta and it was a peaceful country. We lived 100 miles from Nairobi and at the time the journey to the capital took several hours on red earth roads known as 'murram' and quite often impassable in the rainy season. The trip was sometimes stopped by elephants and giraffe on the 'road'.

Have a good week. Spencer and Cathy.


Crankshaft MISCELLANY

Sunday 21/03/2021: As you may know my bike has suffered on its incredible journey of 163 458 kilometres around Africa, Central, South America and Mexico and is in need of another major refit. Since I cannot source parts here I have had to rely upon my good buddy Craig Carey-Clinch to arrange for them to be shipped from the UK. They are on the way and I should receive them in a few days. So into the workshop to get the Tenere running again. Hopefully all will go well so the next hurdle is to somehow get out of Mexico to head north.

Colombia Monday 22/03/2021: Have had some news from friends in Venezuela where Cathy and I were treated very kindly by the local people who were suffering from the hardships imposed by the regime. Colombia has just declared that it will recognise the 1.8 million refugees from Venezuela providing protection to 'enable them to integrate' into Colombian society. The 'Liberator', Simon Bolivar, had attempted to unify South America and surely would have been pleased with the philanthropic decree of the Colombian Government.

Tuesday 23/03/2021: To Brazil next where 300,000 Brazilians have died from coronavirus whilst President Bolsonaro continues to deny that it exists and has told the population to 'man up' and get on with life. The Brazilians actually call the disease ''drowning in the dry'' because without medication sufferers are just left outside to fight for breath.

Covid DeathLast week a quarter of deaths around the world from coronavirus were in Brazil. The new Health Minister stated that he was 'headed to the hospitals to see if people were actually dying of Covid.' Of course this attitude endangers the whole of South and Central America, even as far as Mexico, where we are, and makes restrictions more severe.

Surfer StatueWednesday 24/03/2021: On the sea front in Escondido a statue of a surfer has been erected as the area is a first class attraction for top surfers, when Covid allows. Many American and other nationalities frequent the sea along the nearby coast as huge rollers make it a magnet for the borders. The statue represents a surfer riding a wave about to peak.

In the news recently was a female surfer from El Salvador, Katherine Diaz, 22, who was practising for the Olympics, as surfing has been included for the first time, was struck by lightning and instantly killed. She was on El Tunco beach near San Salvador. Surfers in Mexico and elsewhere mourn her loss.

Multi Lightning StrikeAnnually, world-wide, it is estimated that between 6 to 24 thousand people are killed by lightning. In the UK only one a year and in the States 49. A lightning strike or lightning bolt is an electric discharge between the atmosphere and the ground. A single lightning event is a "flash", which is a complex, multi-stage process. Most flashes only "strike" one physical location, referred to as a "termination". I used to live in Swaziland, now Eswatini, and the country has one of the highest number of 'flashes' each year.

Scary if you were out in the beautiful hills. Maracaibo in Venezuela has the highest each year. The Empire State Building was once hit 15 times in 15 minutes.

Friendly Visitor Advertising BoardFriday 26/03/2021: New friend has come to call and looking for Cathy. We seem to be a beacon for animals but perhaps it is because we are soft-hearted and always provide them with some morsels, enough for a couple of mouthfuls. This is Bert but he doesn't much like the name so any suggestions.

Sunday 28/03/2021: Just thought I would add an advertising mural to complete the mix this week. Mexico has art everywhere and colourful murals and placards are always worth an inspection. Who can you spot in this example? Be safe, smile and be happy, Cathy and Spencer.

Monday 29/03/2021: Just learned that my bike parts are being held in the UK for more documentation! Will we ever get back on the road?


NEED TO MOVE

Tuesday 09/03/2021: CURRENT AFFAIRS... more news on things Mexican

VictimasAndrés Manuel López Obrador, who was born before women in Mexico were able to vote, spent International Women's Day, 08/03/2021, barricaded in the National Palace behind a wall guarded by riot police. For a president who promised respect, tolerance and peace, it looked as if he was at war with half his country - women. Feminists were incensed with the President even before he erected a three-meter-high metal barrier as a "wall of peace" around his Palace ahead of an International Women's Day march.

As many as eleven women are killed every day in Mexico and yet Obrador is supporting a member of his Morena party, accused of being a serial rapist, as governor of a major state, in elections in June. Women carried signs saying: "If only they protected us like they protect their monuments." And shouted for protection from male violence.

Mural PanelIn England a similar protest was organised in London to mark the recent murder of Sarah Everard and to protest about violence against women. Police in London clashed with mourners and protesters. Sarah Everard's disappearance as she walked home on the evening of March 3 had led to accounts from women about the dangers of walking streets alone at night, and dismay at the failure of police and wider society to tackle this. However the number of women actually being abducted and murdered in the UK each year is very low.

Friday 12/03/2021:
On a lighter note I have just learnt of an artist who creates huge murals for public buildings one of which has recently been unveiled at the Guadalajara Chamber of Commerce. The artist is Jorge Monroy whose 68-square-meter mural is entitled The Origins of Guadalajara. Obviously he has great artistic skill and a deep knowledge of the history of Mexico, and particularly of Guadalajara. His mural is a series of panels depicting the origin and development of the city. The example provided portrays those who influenced the cultural and religious heritage of the city and its expansion over five centuries.

Mate CupTuesday 16/03/2021: Last Log I mentioned the Avocado Wars so to continue the food theme this week just a few words on another edible, Coconuts! In the Guerrero village of Coacayul, next to a 70-hectare coconut plantation, is El Museo del Coco, or The Coconut Museum. Its exhibits illustrate the wide range of products derived from a single coconut — everything from virgin coconut oil, coconut milk, yogurt, butter and cottage cheese. The museum encourages the consumption of the fruit and its ingredients by raising awareness of the health benefits of this fruit. There's a bar where you can purchase tequila shots or rum to imbibe with coconut. The entrance carries many coconut-based products, such as luxurious soaps, toys, candle holders, bowls and more. The example shown is from the early 19th century Spanish Colonial period.

Fresh FishThursday 18/03/2021: As we have been here such a long time have made friends with some of the fishermen and go out with them sometimes which means we get some cut-price fish, two-for-one. In fact fish is often part of our diet along with vegetables and fruit. There are many stalls selling both and also fish vendors as in the picture. Fish but no chips. Looks as if the stall holder is feather dusting her assistant.

Napoleon In Egypt It may surprise some that Napoleon Bonaparte was planning to escape from the island of St Helena where he had been exiled after his defeat at the battle of Waterloo in 1815, by 'submarine!' His aim was to get to Mexico where it was said he had some supporters and to found a new Empire! He died of stomach cancer before he could execute his plan. The painting is by a French Academic Artist Jean-Leon Gerome.

Friday 19/03/2021: Another blow to our plans!!!! Mexico has closed all land borders so once more stymied. What to do? The coronavirus pandemic has really caused us huge problems logistically and financially. Funds now in DIRE STRAITS. So for all those who are missing friends and family during this lock down click on the link and think at least you are still in this world. Take care, Spencer and Cathy.

< So Far Away From Me | Dire Straits >


MEXICO HERITAGE

Monday 01/03/2021: Another month and still in Mexico and obviously I am not an Adventure Bike Rider at the moment as the covid pandemic has restricted travel but hopefully in a few weeks will be able to continue on my continental quest. Probably will head north to America and, in time, up to Alaska.

Las SoldaderasTo prove I have been an adventurer I am providing a link to some promos of my travels around Africa and South and Central America.

< African Motorcycle Diaries - Promo >
< South America Motorcycle Diaries - Snippet >

Wednesday 03/03/2021: Back to more snippets on things Mexican as nothing much to say on biking exploits. In November 1910, Mexico was plunged into a long civil war between the federal government, run by dictator Porfirio Díaz Mori, and thousands of revolutionaries from various factions. For the revolutionaries, the war was an opportunity to overthrow the outdated class system put in place by the Spanish elite. The revolutionaries were fighting for the people who worked the land, for the mestizos; a war for the indigenous; and a war for the poor. Women took up the cause and joined the fighters. They were known as The Soldaderas, but the term Adelitas ,"little Angels", is used in Mexico today to refer to women who participated in the Mexican Revolution, battling government forces. The term Adelitas originally referred to the nurses with revolutionary forces.

Reward For Pancho Villa The revolution is recognized as the first major political, social, and cultural uprising of the 20th century. Prior to the arrival of European conquistadors, the region was home to one of the world's advanced Empires: the Aztecs. After the Spanish conquest of 1521, the most powerful group in Mexico were Spanish-born citizens. Three centuries later, in 1821, after ten years of war the country gained independence from Spain. However the war mainly benefited the criollo (Spanish-blooded upper class) minority. This led to the revolutionary struggle now known as the Mexican Revolution. The two most famous and powerful leaders were Emiliano Zapata and Francisco ('Pancho') Villa, who typified the main characteristics of the popular movement.

Avocados Friday 05/03/2021: As mentioned in the last LOG Mexican craftsmen are skilled at making metal, silver and gold filigree articles of jewellery so here is an example of arracadas (earings). In Mexican folk art there is a long tradition of using metal to create wall decorations and artefacts. Go to the Photo Archive for examples >

Saturday 06/03/2021: Most people know about drug wars in Mexico but not so well known are the Avocado Wars. These are causing problems for farmers as conflict is common over land appropriation in order to grow avocados which bring huge profit to gangs who seize the land. These wars affect mainly Mexico and Chile. But why the name avocado? When the Aztecs discovered the avocado they named it '?huacatl', which means "testicle." The texture, shape, and size of the fruit, as well as the way it grows in pairs, inspired the name avocado.

Gareth Jones Sunday 07/03/2021: Just received news of my friend Gareth Jones who is prone to indulging in mud baths. He is trying to get through Africa on a Harley Davidson 1300 road bike. Madman! Looks like he is having a spot of bovver! hiding in mud somewhere whilst bemused spectators look on. God luck buddy and carry on. You will make it.

Bobcat Sitting In A CactusMonday 08/03/2021: Caught a glimpse of a bobcat in a Pipe cactus. Always special when one sees a natural creature in its habitat. The Mexican bobcat is found throughout Mexico, but primarily in Baja, western Mexico, and southward from the Sonoran desert. It lives in a variety of areas, including forests, coastal swamps, deserts, and scrublands. The animals are non-migratory and are territorial. Sad when mankind is unkind to the wild areas of the planet by destroying areas like the Amazon forests and driving roads through AFRICA.

Lastly, check out the Photo Archive for some recent pictures. Take care and baked-beans with avocados on toast. Spencer and Cathy.


Coronavirus Heat Map MEXICO MATTERS

Monday 15/02/2021: Covid-19 Update. There are signs of relief as the number of Covid-19 cases has reduced slightly but they are still very high in some areas. Mexico will have just two maximum risk red light States as of today. Guanajuato and Guerrero remain in the red zone, while the other 11 maximum risk states will switch to high risk orange. Unfortunately Mexico's vaccination programme has virtually stalled as there are a very limited number of doses currently in the country. However 1.5 million AstraZeneca and Pfizer shots are expected to arrive shortly allowing the inoculation of seniors to begin. Let's hope they do arrive. Where we are is close to a green zone so hope it stays that way.

As you know travel around the world is restricted because of coronavirus so a Canadian musician, Aiden McGill, who visits Mexico regularly, has released a song and video designed to lighten our mood and to help us cope with 'loco-down'. In the video, against a backdrop of scenes of snow in Canada, with plastic palm trees, 'Tan In a Can', and heat up to 32C 'Our Own Mexico' brings a Mexican beach vacation home to an Ontario winter. Turn the volume up and dance to the beat. Enjoy.

Coca cola Power< Aiden McGill: 'Our Own Mexico' >

Make sure you go to the first video on you tube with the opening sequence of the waves on the beach at 3mins 44 secs.

Tuesday 16/02/2021: As I mentioned in my previous post Mexico astounds by its variety of its artistic output. Came across another example, this time, metal work of a filigree nature which is a form of intricate metalwork used in jewellery and other forms of metalwork. In jewellery, it is usually of gold and silver, made with tiny beads or twisted threads, or both in combination, soldered together or to the surface of an object of the same metal and arranged in artistic motifs. There are many silver smiths in Mexico making intricate filigree pendants and rings. This is a larger example and a great advert for a well-known company.

Hare Krishna Thursday 18/02/2021: Managed to get out of our two rooms for a walk into the beyond, beyond where I don't know, however came upon an abandoned bike that had 'spiritual connotations' so adopted my Hare Krishna persona and began ringing bells and intoning. Hm! Hm! Hm!. The bike's colour reminded me of Dutch connections and I just happened to have an orange cape in my kit (as you do) so here's a homage to my Dutch links which are as follows. My mad girlfriend of 25 years, is half South African, half Dutch. My College mate Alexander is now the King of Holland.

I owned a hippie barge/houseboat in Amsterdam for ten years (my Dad did not know, he does now) until one day I took a girlfriend there to impress her and all that remained above water was the kitchen chimney flue. That relationship drowned.

I like Dutch Cheese (Edam, Gouda, Nagelkaas, Leyden, Limburger, Valskaas, Maaslander, Roomano, Beemster, Leerdammer, Parrano, etc) and most of my posts are cheesy. Let's not forget Holland's most significant culinary cultural breakthroughs-- the pickled herring and smoked eel. Worth murdering for- not, obviously, that would be immoral and fishy behaviour.

New Rental Sunday 21/02/2021: My brother, Simon, daughter's birthday today so happy birthday Ysabella hope you have a splendid day in Cornwall. Probably swim in the sea!! keeping to coronavirus restrictions.

Tuesday 23/02/2021: Went into town today in my all purpose VEHICLE which saves on rent but have problems when I come to low bridges or overhanging branches. Nevertheless does away with the need to look for suitable accommodation in a new location. Also visitors, when permitted, have a place to rest weary heads. Note that the ladder extends and gives access to the roof for sunbathing or sleeping in hot weather but have to take care not to roll off or go sleep walking. Have to be careful in windy weather. If you believe this you need to eat more cheese.

Horned BeastThursday 25/02/2021: Mexican friend came on his bike for a visit. He uses it when herding cattle. Says it doesn't spook them. His cows are not that intelligent, and also deaf and short sighted. He has a hooter that sounds like a bull so the cows follow in expectation!!

Saturday 27/02/2021: Participated in the Armchair Adventure Festival chat show with buddies. Both Cathy and myself engaged with other biking enthusiasts and welcomed the chance to share experiences. Go to link image below and forward to 10hrs and 46 mins and 48 secs. Good way to end the week so peace, love, respect for all from Cathy and Spencer.



our garden terrace in bermondsey

STOP PRESS...

Up-coming Event not to be missed!


The Armchair Adventure Festival

Booking now at: armchairadventurefestival.com/bootcamp - and don't forget to use the code for your 10% off! Look forward to seeing you there.


Winter SnowTEST OF ENDURANCE

Wednesday 03/02/2021: Still at a standstill in sunny Mexico whilst in the UK winter has arrived so have posted a photo of my father's garden where it is minus four degrees and Kent is covered in snow. In Scotland the temperature is apparently minus fifteen but not as cold as parts of Canada at minus 40!! My father had to break the ice for an early morning swim, no not for him, for the ducks! What a contrast to 28 degrees here.

Friday 05/02/2021: Have today another visit to a doctor for examination of damage caused many months ago to an important part of my anatomy!! It appears I have 'urethra stenosis by trauma' which will need surgical treatment. This is the result of a crash last year and is now in need of an urgent resolution. I have been down this road before when I travelled to Mexico City where the doctors did not inspire confidence so decided to postpone operation. Looks like I have now to bite the bullet as experiencing an increasing amount of pain.

Chair PersonSaturday 06/02/2021: Cathy Nel's birthday tomorrow and also John Delipps', my web site guru. HAPPY BIRTHDAY CATHY. This wonderful woman is asleep right now so I am setting up some balloons and presents and writing this post in the middle of the night, in stunning Mexico, as a surprise. She has listened to me drivel on for 25 years and we have trusted each other through 22 countries and 110 000+ kilometres. She is one proper Adventurer. Here's to more living life to the extreme. I will buy Cathy a new chair, its outlived its primary school days.

Monday 08/02/2021: Birthday. You can live to be a hundred if you give up all the things that make you want to live to be a hundred. Anyway, once you are over the hill you begin to pick up speed. But Cathy has posted a stunning photo to mark her day as life is the true adventure wherever you are but not many have the opportunity to live it as they would wish. We are the lucky ones.

Life Is The True Adventure Tuesday 09/02/2021: Whilst waiting outside the clinic to hear about the next phase of my medical treatment noticed two smart Dudes in their Sunday best. Super fellows enjoying a chat, one word a minute, and probably reminiscing on times gone by, pre-coronavirus at least. Love the look on the face of the older 'boy', friendly. See the Photo Archive for photos >

Mole Negro Wednesday 10/02/2021: As you know we are now almost honorary Mexicans so have adopted the local lifestyle. Among the delights of the region where we live, Escondido, on the coast but not that far from Oaxaca which is widely considered the gastronomic capital of Mexico. It is best known for its seven classic varieties of mole. This is a thick, complex sauce served with meat and rice. The most iconic is the smoky-sweet mole negro, made of a variety of ingredients. One has to taste this culinary speciality!!

Thursday 11/02/2021: Another aspect of Mexico which makes it attractive is the colourful dress, crafts, wall art and more, but also the art of carving dating back centuries. Came across this example today which shows the skill and imaginations of the people.

Tarantula - Wish Me LuckWood NymphHad another friendly visitor today that seemed to want to take up permanent residence but my hospitality did not go to that extent. There are hundreds of different tarantulas around the world and South and Central America have the most varieties. Many in my accommodation! The spider originally bearing the name "tarantula" was Lycosa tarantula, a species of wolf spider native to Mediterranean Europe. The name is derived from the southern Italian town of Taranto. The term "tarantula" was subsequently applied to almost any large, unfamiliar species of ground-dwelling spider. The tarantella is a dance so called which the bite of the spider induces.

Sunday 14/02/2021: Lastly this is a special day and in Mexico, Valentine's Day is officially titled El Día del Amor y la Amistad (The Day of Love and Friendship). That means that if you want to celebrate like a Mexican, you shouldn't focus all your attention on your beloved, but rather on your friends and family too. Shops and restaurants are decorated every year with red balloons, red hearts, banners, and flowers to celebrate the day of love and friendship. Around the world, red roses and chocolates are on top of the list for romantic gifts on Valentine's Day, and the same goes in Mexico.

So peace and love and a red rose and a box of chocolates from Cathy and Me.


Balloons

WHAT CAN ONE DO?

Friday 22/01/2021: There is not much one can do in almost total lockdown but to contemplate the future of our existence in a strangely isolated life at the moment. Adventure riding is on hold and plans to continue the quest to complete the circumnavigation of Central America and to continue on to another continent are subject to eradicating the world wide pandemic. Will we ever? Problems are not stop signs, they are guidelines. Next to trying and winning, the best thing is trying and losing. If you don't like something, change it: if you can't change it, change the way you think about it. We can't change our situation at the present so need to adapt and endeavour to remain positive.

Russet-Crowned MotmotSunday 24/01/2021: Have managed to do some more rides in the local area, mindful of covid restrictions. Such a relief to escape our two room apartment and the wildlife that frequents our habitation. Apart from scorpions and snakes inside we have the pleasure of exotic vegetation and colourful birds outside. Though the Golden Eagle is Mexico's national bird, some believe it is the Crested Caracara depicted on the ancient Aztec pictogram that appears on Mexico's flag. One happy-chappy that appears quite frequently in the trees very nearby and inhabits the coastline of South West Mexico is the Motmot.

KlimWednesday 27/01/2021: MY bike is my friend for the next few days riding in Mexico AND have fantastic news. I have a massive new sponsor, one of the biggest names in Motorcycle brands, KLIM, to advertise their motorcycle gear. As they state, off-road, dual-sport and adventure riding is blessed and simultaneously cursed with a wide range of challenges. You have to contend with a great variety of terrain and weather, logistic and other potentially life-threatening conditions. For a sport that is more about where you can go than how to get there, off-road adventure riding is genuinely unique. KLIM products will enable me to achieve my goals whenever and where ever. Looking forward to testing KLIM gear as soon as possible.

Zoomers Friday 29/01/2021: Disaster as bike has more problems. Distinct rattling and juddering which could be the crankshaft assembly unit. Back to stripping down Tenere once more. Soon the whole bike will be rebuilt with new parts. Several have advised ditching it but can't bring myself to do it. It really is part of me. Conducted a Zoom interview today, lasted an hour, and many interested and amazing people logged on for an enjoyable discussion. Thanks guys for the chance to talk about adventure riding experiences. Have a not so good pic of the duo zoomers.

Metal Mule Camping Table Sunday 31/01/2021: Another month about to fly by but we are not 'flying' like everyone around the world in similar situations. Have been putting Metal Mule gear to good use outside the apartment to escape the heat but have to keep an eye out as geckoes dash in for mango lunch.

Monday 01/02/2021: Always like to include a photo of something strange, amusing or unusual so include the photo from Africa. I have seen six on a motorbike and other bikers with concrete slabs and building materials on their bikes and countless other examples of over loading. This photo I have named 'Room for Two More'. Hope you smile.

Tuesday 02/02/2021: A very common question people ask me at Shows -'Does all this travelling make you more open to other people?' The answer is a weird one. Yes it does. You realize that we are all the same. But at the same time it makes you more insular and less sociable. Not because there is anything wrong with people but because everything is so 'right' in nature, away from people. I realized two things very quickly about travelling. Don't spend much time in cities and towns and don't read websites about countries, especially government websites, you will never go anywhere. Having said that we had a bad experience today. There is no denying that Colombia and Mexico have relentless press coverage about drugs and cartels and 'Yes', it is an issue but not for the mass of the population of normal, law-abiding people. Bodies hanging from bridges is inter-cartel 'business'. Very few foreigners have been killed in these countries and it is usually by crossfire-'wrong place wrong time'. We have been in South, Central America and Mexico for 5 years now and it has been amazing. The family values, the politeness, the verve for life is contagious. Most impressive for me is that you never hear shouting. In Europe it's not unusual to hear a mother shouting at her child or a couple arguing. Never ever here. So the day to day living is extremely relaxed but I cannot shy away from reality. This is what happened today...

We went to our local gym, which is pretty rough but on the main road to Oaxaca City. The gym is above a 'fish frying drink spot' for some rough locals. A massive noise stopped us all training and we ran to the window. The noise was a gunman shooting in the air from a car. The next minute a very badly beaten man was thrown out into the car park. Cartel hit. Not dead but close.

Hurdle PracticeBoth his eyes were swollen shut and he obviously had a broken arm and a machete cut in his head. The ambulance called by Sergio, the gym owner, was extremely quick to respond and he was 'thrown', yes thrown into the Ambulance.


A grim episode but anywhere where Class A drugs are involved, violence ensues. In Africa, when I was growing up there was Lager and weed but South and Central America have been a serious eye opener to both Cathy and I. When they say drugs will steal your life, there is no exaggeration. The most desperate, dangerous and sorry, depraved people we have met in 20 countries all had one thing in common COCAINE! It is the absolute scourge of continents. Don't forget that the USA is the biggest consumer of cocaine in the world.

That's the end of my observation and account of a 'happening,' so lastly, on a happier note, in this year of the Olympics, hopefully, came across an 'athlete' in training for the hurdles. Incredible style and could get a flying start. Also check < PHOTO ARCHIVE > for more photos.

Peace, love, respect, harmony and tripe and olive stew for all, from me and the mad one Cathy.


Helmet Reflection HAVE BIKE - CAN'T TRAVEL

Monday 11/01/2021: Have finally got the bike back on the road but still some suspicious noises. Will get it sorted as have time on my hands as not able to go far as reported in the last log. I hope some of you have managed to listen to the Adventure Rider Radio interview. Proof that Cathy is not a fictitious character, as some have suggested, despite some photos of her on record!! We will be able to explore some areas nearby as long as we keep away from habitation so have an 'artistic' pic to prove that helmets are back in use.

Hiding From The Police Wednesday 13/01/2021: We have found a way to avoid Police Patrols on the beach. Simple matter of hiding in plain sight, perhaps, or maybe worried that we are self- isolating so Police keeping a safe distance.

Friday 15/01/2021: We have been on the hunt for new accommodation as where we are is now becoming too expensive but as yet without any joy. The covid lockdown prevents any chance of generating a source of income and plans for filming are on hold. Have completed another book but now needs to be edited in the UK before publication. Will take more time than originally thought. 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' on my African travels is still available so here is a short extract for those who are interested in buying a copy. Yes!! Of course it is a plug for which apologies. On the day I left the UK it was the worst weather of the year, torrential rain and a howling wind and yet hundreds of bikers turned up, together with the population of Biddenden, the village where I lived in Kent.

This extract is from Chapter 10 '2000 Beers' which I stumbled upon, stashed in the bush, and meeting with some Gabonese who had somehow 'acquired' the beer and had hidden it to sell at a later date.

Hard Going In DRC His brother was an outspoken critic of the way the government was run and rumour had it that they were (The Government) involved in his relatives disappearance. Samson stated that he felt unsafe in the main cities and moved to Moanda in the far south of the country where he drifted into criminal activities. As we spoke, he seemed to sadden significantly and eventually, sighing and standing up, announced that they had to be getting on their way. Before leaving he thanked me, wished me luck on the rest of my journey and said, "Remember, Gabon is the world and the world is Gabon." I think the beer was going to his head but I was pleased that he felt I was important enough to impart philosophical advice to.

Samson stumbled down the path and returned with four more bottles of Regab, handing them to me and saying, "Good luck Mr. Spencer, I wish you safe journey." I wished them luck too, and returned to the clearing to sort out my sleeping arrangements. Unfortunately, I was now left with no option but to drink the remaining beers because, as I am sure you will appreciate, it is very dangerous to ride a motorbike with glass bottles in your luggage. Strangely enough, after my liquid dinner I slept very well that night, lying on top of my tent and marvelling at the brief, but wonderful encounters you have with people living a completely different life to you.


Quacking 'The Japanese-Speaking Curtain Maker' contact www.youbyyou.co.uk to order a copy or log onto Amazon for paper back or ebook editions... and as if that is not enough, you can still follow the solo-circumnavigation of Africa on DVD taken from the TV series 'African Motorcycle Diaries' as broadcast throughout the world by getting your copy at www.dukevideo.com.

Sunday 17/01/2021: Nothing much to report as nothing much has happened in the past few days. As King Lear prophetically stated ''Nothing will come of nothing'' so decided to make extensive alterations to my Tenere whilst nothing much to do. Now have a quacking good bike.

Toot-N-Calm Tuesday 19/01/2021: As you know I am always on the lookout for amusing signs and notices so post this one to bring a smile in covid gloom. Cairo is a noisy, hectic place, polluted with heavy traffic belching fumes and has the loudest car horns in the world. However they have been exhorted to use them in the days of lockdown as taxis still operate in the city.

Thursday 21/01/2021: Lastly for this short LOG and for all those worried about Covid around the world perhaps it would be advisable to make sure you have the best PPE dress available as recommended by supermarkets. Next time you venture out shopping for essential supplies wear the latest protective clothing.

That's all. Happiness is a state of mind, sardines and red-hot peppers. Love to all from Cathy and Spencer.


IN THE FACE OF ADVERSITY

Friday 01/01/2021: Another year. Where has 2020 gone? I know there has been a considerable time gap in the log but have been trying to get re-organised back in Mexico and being hindered by lock down regulations. The country is experiencing a surge in cases like elsewhere in the world. I have not wished anybody Happy Christmas or New Year and I am sorry. I was hit hard by my mother's death. I wish you all the best in the next year and thanks so much for the messages about my Mum. You guys and girls have been an incredible help.

Nearly Naked AttractionSunday 03/01/2021: Just heard that an event held not far from where we are is to go ahead as usual. What? Covid won't stop an annual nudist festival as organizers of the Oaxaca event have promised to observe all health protocols. The Zipolite Nudist Festival - put on by the Mexican Nudists' Federation - has taken place in the coastal municipality of San Pedro Pochutla for six years on Mexico's only legal nudist beach. The event attracts as many as 8,000 people. This year it will run from January 29th to February 1st but will not be a massive event and organizers would make sure visitors comply with health protocols, both on and off the beach.

Shower CompanionWednesday 06/01/2021: You may remember I had a scorpion in my bike ignition and a snake in my shower. This morning, the fellow in the pic, the length of my hand, was waiting to pounce, in the shower which they seem to frequent. Nothing like a clean hit. No more washing for me. Cathy Nel removed him (Humphrey is his name) expertly, like a real Jane Bond. I would have done it of course but if I even look at a Scorpion I go into Anaphylactic shock. The local ladies spotted Cathy with Humphrey and they asked if they could have him to put in a bottle of Mezcal, a local tradition. Sorry Humphrey, you died from alcohol poisoning and it's Cathy's fault.

Alternative Weight Training Cathy also recently saved a tortoise, or land turtle as they are called here, (tortuga de la tierra) that had fallen into a culvert. He had a similar happy fate as the locals just went 'Yum-tortillas'

Friday 08/01/2021: It is difficult to keep fit now as the gym is closed and running along the beach is frowned upon by the friendly Police, and one must obey the Covid regulations, so have devised a weight training programme with new equipment. Workout lifting panniers, increasing the weight on a regular basis, push and pull and lift equipment. Do repetitions and repeat twice daily. Also wear suitable clothing to maximise effort.

Sunday 10/01/2021: Came across a couple of signs that seem to be contradictory but amusing. Not unusual to find such on one's travels so have posted two here and a couple more pics on the photo archive. One of these should carry a warning, 'Do Not Read' and the other, 'Ask for Explanation'.

Contraditory SignsMonday 11/01/2021: Recently was invited, with Cathy, to be interviewed on Adventure Rider Radio along with other biking nutters. Jim asked us to give three tips to adventurers on what you should know before you go as stated.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO - More Top Tips From Experienced Travellers - Part 2

Adventure Rider Radio Top Tips Seasoned travellers share their best travel tips and advice. Lessons learned on the road that you need to know before you go. This is part TWO of a TWO part series, each featuring different travellers with a vast array of advice. In this episode we hear from world travellers, Spencer Conway and Cathy Nel, Steph Jeavons and Tiffany Coates. < CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO THE SHOW ONLINE >


Wendy ConwaySAD DAYS

Friday 14/12/2020: LOOKING BACK

As many of you know my lovely mother died recently and today was her funeral so I would just like to share with you the Eulogy that my father wrote in her memory. I and my brother will never forget her and we have received over 2000 messages from around the world commenting on her beauty, talent and kindness.

Funeral Speech: My wife Wendy was a truly remarkable person in every way. She was born in 1942 when the Second World War was disrupting normal relationships. Her paternal grandmother cared for her until she was eleven years old during which time she attended Dulwich Prep School as her mother had had become estranged from her husband. She ran away several times in search of her mother, finally joined her, and attended Sydenham Girls High School where she became Head Girl. At sixteen she began work in an advertising agency and was a front line model for several promotions for health and beauty products. She then became the personal secretary to Robert Conquest, historian and poet, and friend of Kingsley Amis and Philip Larkin. She would have continued assisting him but at nineteen she rekindled friendship with me. I had first met her at the age of fourteen when our paths crossed in Dulwich and where we married at the age of 20. I was then at Leeds University but Wendy remained in Dulwich, back with her grandmother, and within two years had Simon and Spencer. That's the way things go when two young people love each other. We only met occasionally during those years when I could escape from Leeds and hitch to London.

GrizabellaWendy's real personality and talents were revealed when I volunteered as a teacher with the Ministry Of Overseas Development and we were posted to Kenya in 1966. Our arrival in Kenya was not very auspicious as I was taken aside when the officials learnt that I was to be a teacher. I was informed that my hair was too long and it had to be cut. Also Wendy needed to wear a longer skirt. It was the age of The Mini! I was taken to a side room where a pair of garden shears was used to shed me of my locks. Wendy found a longer dress and, with smiles, we were allowed to go, with thanks, for coming to teach Kenyan students. With two very young children of three, and one, we lived in an African wattle hut for one year without hot water or electricity in a small town called Machakos. Wendy was not dismayed, her only fear was that of spiders, although we had giraffe and zebra wandering on the perimeter of the school where I was teaching. She began to encourage the local and ex-patriate community to engage in drama, craft production and various other social activities. She also started a primary school and with a trained teacher organised and taught a racial mix of children that included our sons. She was non-stop energy, floating around in colourful dresses and became a well-known actress at the Nairobi National theatre.

After 4 years in Kenya we returned to the UK so that I could take a further Degree and Wendy external studies at London University. I was asked if I would like to go to Swaziland for a four year contract and we packed our bags and flew out. Frankly we could not financially manage in the UK with a mortgage and two growing boys. Wendy quickly became well known in Mbabane, the thriving and lively capital. Swaziland Theatre was her home where she shone as an actress, writer and director. Richard E Grant was a friend, although younger, but already on his way to being an A list actor. They trod the same boards and she took the lead in 'Cats', 'Joseph', as Mrs Potiphar, dressed in a rather revealing and erotic costume which caused a stir. A top director cast her as Lady Macbeth and she appeared in Greek tragedies and Oscar Wilde classics. She directed 'Whose Life is it Anyway?' and adapted Romeo and Juliet for an all African cast. Wendy was incredibly artistic and created spectacular tapestries and art work. She started a craft society and through this raised money for Medecins Sans Frontieres.

As there was a need for trained government secretaries and typists she founded a business along with her friend, Helen Dear, named 'Expertype' and ran this for three years. The office was in the town and during a spell of riots both were trapped for two days whilst riot Police used tear gas and rubber bullets to quell the disgruntled workers. 'Expertype' is still a thriving secretarial school.

At the end of my contract we once more returned to the UK and I attended London University for an MA in Overseas Development sponsored by ODA in order to send me back to Swaziland, as an education Advisor to the Ministry Of Education. After one year we were back there with Simon and Spencer where Wendy became involved in more creative areas and of course reinvigorated others. She also started to write more frequently and penned short stories and magazine articles. MacMillan South Africa published a short story anthology and two of these are included in her book 'Mind the Raven' published last year and now in The British Library. She stipulated that proceeds from sales should go to 'Medecins Sans Frontieres'. People came to love and admire her in Swaziland for her humour, creativity, kindness and ability to welcome and engage with everyone.

The next episode in Wendy's life was in The Seychelles, which she did not find stimulating as she was not a sand, sea and sun person. Nevertheless, being who she is, she turned it into a positive. She started children's TV and scripted, directed and presented a daily thirty minute programme with exciting and dramatic stories with colourful backdrops and pictures. It became one of the most popular programmes and families sat together to watch Seychellois children engage in fun activities and listen to stories read by Wendy in her flamboyant style. Whilst recording one programme she glimpsed a rather gruesome spider and screamed, 'Spider' throwing a microphone in the air. It is still on tape. After two years she turned up to the studio to be told that she had been replaced by a Minister's wife and was no longer required. End of the Seychelles for Wendy. I had two more years of a contract and had to stay whilst Wendy hopped on a plane and returned to the UK. That's life. By this time both Simon and Spencer had completed degrees at Universities, Simon in England and Spencer in Scotland and were making their own way in life. No more attraction for Wendy in The Seychelles, including me, so off to the homeland.

The rest is Biddenden. Wendy purchased The Malt House, and at a loss started a B and B almost immediately. I did not see the house till I came home six months later to a house of guests and Wendy presenting them with breakfast fit for royalty. Over her twenty years of this she made friends around the world and many come back to stay not as guests but as genuine friends. Not content, a tea room was opened in the garden and The Malt House Ladies was also started. A successful venture that created a super group of ladies who discussed interesting and various topics. Lastly, she taught drama at Christ Church University, Canterbury and enthused Malaysian trainee teachers with her love of language and theatre. Many have sent sympathy messages and thanks for her enthusiastic teaching.

Wendy dearly loved her sons, and sometimes me, and her granddaughters, and has inspired them to follow paths to higher education and to be kind and understanding.

Messages from around the world continue to arrive saying how Wendy changed their lives and outlook on life and for several gave them the will to live. In death she wanted to help the living and donated organs for research and recipients. That was Wendy.

Next ChallengeThursday11/12/2020: Have flown back to Mexico, with a heavy heart, but I need to continue adventure riding. Have managed to get spares for the bike with the help of Craig Carey Clinch and had no problem at customs. Flew with Bernard Ziega who is going to make a TV programme of me riding through The Andes. The photo shows the easy part of the challenge.

Fish Eye Bernard is a documentary programme maker who I met several years ago at one of the adventure shows in the UK so I am very pleased that he is with me here and will be giving Cathy help with producing professional footage for You Tube and other outlets. He set up a pic at the airport when leaving the UK at Heathrow.

Tuesday 15/12/2020: Back to Escondido and old routine. Bike with mechanic and hopefully will be back on the road in the next few days, although one can never say for certain. Have spotted a couple of 'inventions' that might amuse and lift the gloom a little. Covid is an ongoing problem in Mexico but does not hinder the artistic and inventive talent of the people.

This Bike RoarsInventioins

Friday 18/12/2020: Have just done an interview on Adventure Rider Radio Canada with Jim Martin. Was asked to talk about the three most important things to prepare for before going on a long adventure.

Wednesday23/12/2020: Nothing much to report, The bike is still in the workshop and have been helping with re-fits. Must get back n the road asap but Covid prevents leaving this district!! In the meantime have the use of the new Kawasaki Jaguar bike.

Now near Christmas and not a happy one this year but to all hope you have had a good one and a better 2021.

Spencer.


A DAY TO REMEMBER OUR MOTHER

Wendy Before The Theatre

As many know my lovely mother died on the 14th of this month so I post this in her memory.

There have been over one thousand five hundred messages of sympathy from around the world recognising her as a truly remarkable person of many talents. She was an actress, artist, writer, teacher and business woman. She had boundless charisma and inspired and helped too many to mention, including us. Her warmth and kindness will always be remembered and live on in our hearts forever. We have lost a dearly beautiful soul. My brother and I are so, so sad and devastated.

Some photos of aspects of her life are below.

Wendy Daphne Conway
Wendy Daphne Conway

Her funeral is on Friday 4th of December at 2pm and will be on zoom for any who wish to be part of the service.

You can attend by using the Zoom ID Code: 852 6105 8468 «FOLLOWING THIS LINK» and input the Passcode 865683. Further instructions will be explained in your browser if you should need assistance to download and install the app to gain access.

Mind The Raven ALWAYS

Always my heart will beat for you,
Always my love will remain with you,
And always the pain I feel will deepen as the days go by,
But always and always the way you were, always, will comfort me.
You always cared for others and how they felt,
And always ready with a smile and kindly word,
And I wasn't always there to help you in times of trials and trouble,
And not always there to hold your hand,
But I always cherished you and as you blossomed,
And your beauty glowed, it always made me love you more, Always.
And now you've gone I miss you more each day and always will,
If you could be here for one fleeting moment I would make you know,
How always you were my heart and soul, ALWAYS.

Composed by Michael Conway

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Founder: Spencer Conway
Patron: Richard E. Grant